Ss was T bable. d the s Kid- t like an, | 1 I baad - boxes. ¢tive- ching fficul- 3 N.Y. ce 50 luable en by ys a nd a ° quirts hrusts never clog- on a ham- orld’s Judge vealth Pp ented \ that of cand A the quals assa- 1 has * hools’ a + set- f the 's be e on open- 1899... You een COn- 1 to self, ents sti- ted on the af- fk ose ny TC gic SV. ad- BO . about forty years of age. ‘roots of the hair. more nutritive ma- i terial, and carrying away the . Waste. iuto the scalp, and to this extent tends ssghe hair. ithe same effect, and this must be prac: | Smart New Color Combinations. : Chrysopase,breen and Parma violet are among the smartest of the new color combinations. - In combining the two shades there is just a touch of the contrasting color. For example, a sep- arate waist of Parma violet peau de soie crepe will be trimmed with chrys- oprase buttons, in this way introduc- ing just a slight touch-of the green.— Woman's Home Companion, Rubies for True Love. Rubies are most suited for young jovers. - They are almost most expen- sive. The people of the Burmese em- pire believe that a ruby is a human soul just about to enter the sacred precincts of Buddha, and consequently in the last stages of transmigration. A ruby is an emblem of the most pas- sionate and absorbing love. in the old days of chivalry was sup- posed to lead a knight to conquest, to cause obstacles ‘to melt away and to inspire one with bravery and zeal. It also kept his honor unstained, his character without a blemish. Pearls have always been the partie- ular emblem of purity. They are also credited with representing modesty. In Persia to this day eonle suppose them to be drops of water which, by some means entered the oyster and became crystalized there. Pearls and diamonds are most popular of gems among all classes. An emerald that has no flaw in it is typical of th® purest love. Some peo- ple say that, as few such stones can be found, purest love is necessarily rare. An emerald was always thought ‘to possess the power of discovering treachery in the shape of alleged friends. The emerald is exceedingly popular in courtship and in marriages. After marriage it is supposed to bring har- mony into the household and to fur- ther domestic joys in every possible way. To lose an emerald is said to bring business misfortunes and disas- ter.—Rochester Post-Express. An Independent Girl. Grips, handbags, satchels and suit- cases are all- disdained by a certain progressive young woman, a student at the Academy of the Fine Arts here. She is popular, and often invited to the week ends. Outwardly this young woman student is as irreproachable and correct as a Parisian fashion plate. Her+snug tailor-made suit does not contain any more than the usual supply of heart and lungs and other necessary organs, and the required strata of dainty lingerie, but that’s part of the deception. Her hat comes off first. Inside the crown there is a collection of toilet articles, a hand-glass, nail file and package of hair pins. The shedding of her coat reveals the fact that she wears two waists; one a trig shirt waist, as prescribed by the cult of the tailor-made; the other a. soft. flimsy article, such as would grace any occa- sion short of a Philadelphia assembly. In the language of the turf, she “wins by a neck,” too, for under the severe lines of the Gothic tailor-made stock is concelaed a fixing that is as sheer and as delicate in its traceries as the first frost on the maple trees. But it is the sleeves of her coat that are the especial, particular repository for appurtenances, and they vary in number according to the size of the up-to-date sleeve. The humble but necessary tooth brush comes first, and is followed by the comb, which comes down in the general avalanche on the bed beside the hair-brush, hand- chiefs, stockings and the extra belt. Sleeve number two contains the even- ing gloves and the light veil—Phila- delphia Record. Care of the Hair, A ruby tised also #f one would care properly for the hair. Curling of hair is exceedingly doubtful. The heat kills the hair, and dead hair tends to fall out. If you must curl the hair use soft silk rags with which to do it. Sheet lead and hard papet are almost as bad as the curling tongs. A word of advice to men. Don’t wear the tight-fitting, heavy hats or caps. These impede the free circulation of blood to the scalp, and as a result the hair is not properly nourished, nor is the dead waste carried away. The growing root is suffocated through lack of oxy- gen, and in the end the hair dies and falls out.—Prof. A. P. Knight in the Queen’s Monthly. Morning Caliers. “Did you ever have a morning call- er?” asked a woman of her neighbor. “Is there any one sO aggravating as that visitor who cannot understand that you have important duties to per- form and insists’ upon Temaining an hour?” “Yes; I had a morning caller,” was the answer. “Your mind is certain to stray away from the conversation to the sewing that you were hurrying to ‘finish or the cake that you left in the pantry only half mixed. .I wonder whether there is a woman who has the courage to step to the door and ex- cuse herself from a morning caller? Why should not one be excused? Surely her time is as valuable as that of a business man. But then one knows that the caller would put a strong construction upon such an act and feel injured. “A man engaged at his work would not be expected to drop it at any time to chat with a friend, though it might be a more eniovable way to pass the time; neither would a woman who is employed outside her home, but the long-suffering housewife must neglect her work. It devolves upon her to solve this vexing question. “Of course, if the caller is on terms of more or less intimhcy with the family, the housekeeper may go on with her duties while she chats and trusts that her friend has good sense not to be offended. Even that is in- convenient, however, for the morning duties rarely keep the housekeeper in one particular spot long encugh to carry on a jointed conversation. It is not very pleasant to call out your an- swer to a cuestion from the pantry, while vou are measuring flour, or while you are backing down the cellar stairs to your storeroom. Few women can successfully work when inquisitive eves are following every movement, counting the number of eegs that are put into the cake, or whether the lin- en is of the best quality. “Why doesn’t the housekeeper gent- ly or firmly. tell her friends that she is very busy mornings, and then if they are offended she will bear the consequences bravely and live through it? Woman’s time has alwavs been treated too lightly, and the one who sets the least value upon it is herself. We are not apt to be taken at a great- er value than we put upon ourselves. “It is not the mere caller that cans- es so much annoyance, but the pro- longed caller, who is always going, but never goes.” Fashion Notes. Serge is pronounced all right for walking gown. From tip to toe the summer girl will be embroidered. Narrow Irish lace vies ‘with Valen cienneg for smartness. A white linen parasol bordered with colored batiste is good. Peacock designs flaunt themselves in the face of superstition. New are the belts of open eyelet em- Mair generally begins to turn gray first upon the temples. In most peo- le gray hairs show themselves at But there re wide variations in time. The im- mediate cause of gray hair is in the ilure of the cells at the growing joint to manufacture the pigment nec- §sary to give the color to the hair. ¥hen this change takes place at mid- it marks a gradual lowering of the tality of the skin, and to some extent [ course, a decadence of general vi- ty. In estimating, however, the mediate cause of baldness and of ay hair, a very important factor st always be taken into account, nely, heredity. “The first rule for the care of the gir is to wash it. This should be pne about once a week with luke- rm water and Castile soap. Another important rule is to comb ind brush the hair three or four times day, thus bringing more blood to the dead Brushing brings more blood @ promote the growth and vigor of | Massage of the scalp has | fay { the eyes, but the bri hraidary aver calared linings DTH TSS 2 v The new hats are lovely enough to tempt a woman rushing the season a little. Numbers of hats are made of trans- parent Neapolitan in black, white and colors. i Spats of white linen and picue are threatened to succeed the cloth omnes so much worn. Embroidered batistes, linens, coarse linens of the canvas order. and thin} etamines are inrgreat vogue. The prettiest lingerie waist is thef “baby” style, buttoned in back, with little round voke of lace and high cuffs to match. The woman who can’t wear all white fastens a big red bow to her bodice front and wears a twinkling little pair of red slippers. 1 “Glove handkerchiefs” are batiste handkerchiefs so small as to be worn inside the gloves on the palm of the hand, or in the little bags used for toi- let necessities, Hats i down far over) s are much wider] generally in back than in front, and all the trim | ming is the back or at the left sid<p toward the back. ThE BOLT A SCHOLARLY SUNDAY SERMON BY BISHOP BURGESS, Di D. Subject: The Church’s Foundation. Brooklyn, N. Y.—In the Church of the Messiah the Right Rev. Frederick Burgess, D. D., Bishop of Long Island, on Sunday preached: from. thé. text, Matthew xvi:13-20, and. particularly the passage: “And whom say ye that I am? Simon Peter answered: Thou art the Christ, the Son of the living God. © Jesus. answered and said: Blessed art thou, Simon Barjona; flesh and blood hath not revealed it unto thee, but My Father which is in Heaven. ‘I say also unto thee:: Thou art Peter, and upon this rock will k build My church.” . He said; sf These words can be scarcely under- stood apart from their context. The author of the Bampton Lectures pointed ont that Caesarea was the borderland of the Jew and the Gen- tile, and thus was a fitting place for proclaiming the divinity of Him .who came to save, not one race, but: all mankind. Later study of our Lord’s life revealed the fact that He was at that time truly in exile. It becomes almost self-evident, as we read the Gospels, that our Lord was suffering depression and felt that His work was, to a certain extent, a failure. The cities of Capernaum and Corazin, where He had preached and labored, were all against Him: and you can all recall the sad farewell which He gave to those cities. In the Gospel of St. John we can see evidence that a large number of people who at first had believed in Jesus were gradually es- tranged from Him by His teaching and by His unpopularity. He had been forced to leave His native land and go into exile. The words which He spake to the Syrophoenecian women, “It is not meet to take the children’s bread and give it to the dogs,” shows the sadness, almost bit- ter sadness; and when He came to His own “His own received Him not.” In one way and another, we can see how bitterly - He , felt and, while we have no real picture, yet, neverthe- less, we can, in fancy, see Him, as we read the Gospels, with His little band, going ahead of them through those northern valleys; and we know that it was no figure of speech, but the truth; when He said: “The foxes have holes, and the birds of the air have nests; but the Son’of Man hath not where to lay ‘His héad.” ° Now this confession of Peter. marks the end of this period of exile. - From that time on He set His face toward Jerusalem. Almost immediately there followed the transfiguration on, prob- ably, Mount Hermon, and then He started, with His twelve apostles, to Jerusalem to suffer and to die. . Now this passage reveals deep truth. It reveals the foundation on. which Christ built His church. But, as you understand, we must not lose sight of His humanity. The heresy which sees in Christ an unreal man, one who cannot be touched by our sorrows, our joys or our disappointments, has al- ways been condemned in the councils and by the crceds of the church. Our Lord could not have been truly man if He had not hungered and thirsted and been weary sometimes. He had not sought for help if sometimes He had felt the depression of loneliness and disappointment, though only once did it find expression, namely, on the cross when He said: “My God, My God, why hast Thou forsaken Me.” This period of exile, then, was a per- ijod of depression. Men had deserted Him by thousands; the people whom He had cured and taught were all gone now. And perhaps He feared, as He asked His apostles that crucial question: “Whom do men say that I, the Son” of Man, am?’ If, however, He did fear, whatever He feared was dissipated by the perfect faith of Peter’s clear, strong answer: “Thou art the Christ, the son of the living God.” And one who has ever tried to do real work for humanity and to help forward the kingdom of God must lave known something of this depression, and must also have known something of this joey when at. least He had found one man who believed in Him and in His message and who was ready to ‘stand out before the world and confess his faith, * oy ‘Our Lord, then; founded His church upon a man—upen Peter, if you will. He did not found it upon a doctrine, or a building, or an army, or a ‘treasury. No, but on'a warm, rugged :human heart. He said to Peter: Thou.art.a rock, and on this rock I will build -My church and the gates of hell shall not prevail against it.” Those who want to see in this passage a long, hierati- cal line, ever connecting itself with a bishopric, must, I suppose, be allowed to hug their delusion as long as they live. But a sane criticism will always reveal the fact that our Lord was as- serting that He would found His church - upon. loving kuman hearts, upon, men who believed in Him, in honor and dishonor, through good re- port or evil report, in sickness and health, as well as in proverty and exile. Our Lord believed in men; He trusted them. It has been well said of Him that indignation, even anger, were spoken of men, but to condemn, never. Man, as man, was worthy of respect. Now that has not been the attitude of the great writers and generals and leaders of mankind. Alexander, Cae- sar, regarded men as SO many pawns to be moved about as they willed. “What are a million souls to me?” boasted Napoleon when he was taunted with the loss of an army; so in philosophy we find the same dis- crediting of men. But, Christ taught a different estimate of mankind to His apostles, and St. Paul reverenced men, even when He saw their sins and rebuked them. The parable of the prodigal son and the epistle to the Ro- mans have Deen contrasted, and it has been said of the one that it is ten- derly and pathetically human as he rises above his rabbinical law to teach the death of the Lord and the riches of the goodness of God. All through that epistle to the Romans there runs the burden of the glory of man’s origin and man’s destiny: “We are children of God, and if children of God, then x, joint heirs with Christ, if so be with Him.” There is man’s gloric heritage in that he is made in the image of God. So with all the apostles and true followers of Jesus throughout the world, they have al- ways reverenced men. have They seen the greatness of men’s cgpacity even when they have seen the evil as it is shown so in our great cities, which in some respects equal Sodom and Gomorrah. Beneath all the ex- ternal they can see the .power of the human heart. “Who is that common- place looking fellow?” said a man to Abraham Lincoln. “Friend,” replied the President, “the Lord prefers com- monplace people, and that is the rea- son why. he has made so many of them.” Now, our Lord estimated men at their true worth. He knew their power, and He founded His church on men—on Peter. and James and: John and Thomas .and Paul. As our Dbe- loved collect expresses it: “Thou hast founded upon the apostles and proph- ets, Christ, Himself, being the head cornerstone.” To. that church you all belong. You .have taken the step which announces that consciously you have come to your full conception of ‘what that ‘church is, and that you are members in ‘it. - Now, what Christ wants of you is, not your money or your influence, but He wants your heart, your devotion, but He wants you to stand really, purely, honestly, truly, steadfastly for Him. He wants you to be built up, | as St. Peter expresses it, “as lively stones” in His church. It has been said that to suppose that the Christian Church could have been founded by any save Jesus Christ would be as absurd as to suppose that Strasburg Cathedral had been formed through the centuries by the conflux of the dust of the streets. Now, it is into that church that you have come, and you are to become stones in the build- ing. You are to grow strong by being true and earnest, and pure and tem- perate. Buttresses and arches and roofs are not more really the fruit of human architect’s work than temper- ance and chastity and honesty are the fruits of the Divine Architect's love. “On this rock I-will build My church.” The Church of Jesus Christ will be stronger to-night and stronger to-mor- row, because you have been confirmed to-day, if you honestly keep the prom- ises you have made to-night. After Revival=What? The remarkable religious movement which not long since arose in the West like a: little cloud no bigger than a man’s hand, is apparently spreading throughout Christendom. It has al- ready assumed proportions which com- mand attention from all quarters and has won for it general recognition as “the revival.” Every gcnuine Chris- tian, at least, will be on the watch to make the utmost of its best features and the least of its" blemishes. It is alike: impossible that the latter can be essentially divine, or that the former can be exclusively human. . Here, as in all Christian “salvation,” it is imperative that there should be the distinet recognition of co-operation. For it is always true that God can no more save man without himself than man can save himself without God. This principle, however, compels us not only to. look with reverence for the Divine element in present events, but to consider carefully human issues in the future. Waves of strong emotion, be they ever so potent for good, cannot roll on without cessation. There is an ebb as well as flow to every tide. It is none too soon, therefore, to ask and answer such questions as these: Whither is this movement leading us? What will be left when its emotional force is spent? Will it prove a verita- ble Nile in its fruit-bearing deposits, or will it ebb away into ‘Sahara-like sterility? All evangelical Christians doubtless hope that the utmost of the highest will abide. Yet is there ample room for most serious thought as to how this more or less transient im pulse may not only be translated into something permanent but become the starting-point of a definitely. higher conception of Christian doctrine’ and practice throughout all the churches. —TFrank Ballard, in London Methodist Times. : The Wonder of God. “He saw that there was no man, and wondered that there was no inter- cessor.” Here is a needy world with its chiefest hope in what intercession may bring. Here is a God who de- clares that unlimited blessing may: be eained: for men through intercession. Here is yourself with some knowledge in your own experience of what in- tercession might mean. ' Yet God waits and wonders! The phrase is not too strong. - Remember the missionaries who have gladly renounced all for the joy of putting a new light into despair- ing faces—but they spend little time in asking for the Light. Remember the pastors whose calling it is to min- ister—but they have renounced the highest and most efficient ministry. Re- member the myriads who prate cease- lessly’ about the world’s need of re- vival—but they talk little about it to Him who alone can give it. Remem- ber what you say you believe, recall what you actually do—and cease to wonder that God wonders.—Pacific Baptist. God is in Circumstances. It is not by regretting what is irre- parable that true work is done, but by making the best of what we are. Itis not by complaining that we have not the right tools, but by using well the tools we have. What we are, and where we are, is God's providential arrange- ment—God’s doing, though it may be man’s misdoing; and the manly and wise way is to look your failures in the face and see what can be made out of them.—F. W. Robertson. Desire For Obedience. Obedience must be the struggle and desire of our life. Obedience, not hard and forced, but ready, loving and spon- taneous; the doing of duty, not merely that the duty may be done, but that the soul in doing it may become capa- ble of receiving and uttering God.— Phillips Brooks. ; Straightforwardness, Be sure that straightforwardness is more than a mateh at last for all the involved windings of deceit. In your daily life do what you feel right, 7 what you feel true, and leave, faith and boldness, the consequence to God.—F. Robertson. wm Have Christian Faith. Be a Christian, throw yourself upon God's Word, and get the ability you want in it. No Christian will eve good for anything without Christi courage, or what is the same, C tian faith.—Horace Bushnell. ‘season has developed has met with New York City.—Nothing that the greater enthusiasm’ ‘than’ just such fancy waists as this one made in skele- ton style. bines a blouse or guimpe of lace with lawn sleeves and a skeleton waist of pale green crepe messaline which ’ half yards of velvet ribbon to make as illustrated. Peasant Waist and Skirt. Similar to the bretelle gown is the peasant waist and skirt. The skirt is made simply and is always wide and full. The waist is a low necked round bodice, with straps over the shoulders. This is a very pretty model for a young girl. Purple and white foulard combined with purple velvet made a charming gown worn by an extremely blond young woman. The skirt was box pleated and shirred alternately all around, and hung quite full from the waist. Shirt Waist Sleeves. There is no feature of a waist that so marks its date as its sleeve and none which is so important. Here are two very excellent models, which will serve to make any waist of last season up- to-date and which also can be utilized for mew material, being among the latest and best that are shown. No. 1 is laid in inverted tucks which are stitched to give a box pleated ef- fect, while No. 2 is tucked and stitched flat. Both are gathered at the upper edges, supplying the generous fulness at the shoulder, which is so essential to present styles. Linen and all wash- A Late Design by May Manton. Te Gh oF oi 0) 5h 8 fi ’ matches the skirt and is {rimmed with ruches of the materiai held by velvet ribbon, but its possibilities are many. For the fancy waist and half sleeves all the “chiffon” silks and wools are de- sirable, while for summer wear there are many lovely cotton materials, and the under blouse can correctly be made from all-over embroidery in lingerie style or from muslin embroidered by hand as well as of lace. The blouse is made in guimpe style with sleeves that consist of deep cuffs with full portions above and which can be made over fitted foundations or left unlined as liked. The fancy or skeleton waist i ade with front and back portions, which are pleated at the shoulder, and the half sleeves. and is held at front and back by ornamental straps. As illustrated the two are sep- arate. the guimpe being easily cleansed, but they can be joined and made to form one waist if preferred. The quantity of material required for the medium size is four yards twenty- one, three yards twenty-seven or two yards forty-four inches wide with two and a half yards thirty-six inehes wide and one and three-quarter yards of all- over lace for guimpe and two and AN AAA SN A AA NAA SA AAA rs AAA A Better Than Its Name. One of the exceedingly rich and nov- el dresses is very much in the Louis style. To begin with this voluminous dress of chiffon taffeta is of that charming color once] called pou de soie, or pou de la reine . inconceiv louse is is not to be cleverly ad « these days. 1 ished of yore in onion, to which it is { tical with the r able materials, silks and wools, and in fact every known fabric that is used for waists are suited to the design. The quantity of material required for the medium size for either modél is two and three-eight yards twenty-one one and three-quarter twenty-seven or seven-eighth yards forty-four inches aj wide. a A A AN NINA PP to De shunned. There's a shaped flounce on the tremendous skirt, and it is set onto the rt by means of three upstanding empiecements, which re- | semble stitched tucks. The Guimpe Important. There never was a time when the pe played such an important part e fashio in old fash- one h plates of mmerable exa sees in- ples: practically iden
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers