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about forty years of age.
‘roots of the hair. more nutritive ma-
i terial, and carrying away the
. Waste.
iuto the scalp, and to this extent tends
ssghe hair.
ithe same effect, and this must be prac: |
Smart New Color Combinations.
: Chrysopase,breen and Parma violet
are among the smartest of the new
color combinations. - In combining the
two shades there is just a touch of the
contrasting color. For example, a sep-
arate waist of Parma violet peau de
soie crepe will be trimmed with chrys-
oprase buttons, in this way introduc-
ing just a slight touch-of the green.—
Woman's Home Companion,
Rubies for True Love.
Rubies are most suited for young
jovers. - They are almost most expen-
sive. The people of the Burmese em-
pire believe that a ruby is a human
soul just about to enter the sacred
precincts of Buddha, and consequently
in the last stages of transmigration.
A ruby is an emblem of the most pas-
sionate and absorbing love.
in the old days of chivalry was sup-
posed to lead a knight to conquest, to
cause obstacles ‘to melt away and to
inspire one with bravery and zeal. It
also kept his honor unstained, his
character without a blemish.
Pearls have always been the partie-
ular emblem of purity. They are also
credited with representing modesty.
In Persia to this day eonle suppose
them to be drops of water which, by
some means entered the oyster and
became crystalized there. Pearls and
diamonds are most popular of gems
among all classes.
An emerald that has no flaw in it is
typical of th® purest love. Some peo-
ple say that, as few such stones can be
found, purest love is necessarily rare.
An emerald was always thought ‘to
possess the power of discovering
treachery in the shape of alleged
friends.
The emerald is exceedingly popular
in courtship and in marriages. After
marriage it is supposed to bring har-
mony into the household and to fur-
ther domestic joys in every possible
way. To lose an emerald is said to
bring business misfortunes and disas-
ter.—Rochester Post-Express.
An Independent Girl.
Grips, handbags, satchels and suit-
cases are all- disdained by a certain
progressive young woman, a student
at the Academy of the Fine Arts here.
She is popular, and often invited to
the week ends. Outwardly this young
woman student is as irreproachable
and correct as a Parisian fashion
plate. Her+snug tailor-made suit does
not contain any more than the usual
supply of heart and lungs and other
necessary organs, and the required
strata of dainty lingerie, but that’s
part of the deception.
Her hat comes off first. Inside the
crown there is a collection of toilet
articles, a hand-glass, nail file and
package of hair pins. The shedding
of her coat reveals the fact that she
wears two waists; one a trig shirt
waist, as prescribed by the cult of the
tailor-made; the other a. soft. flimsy
article, such as would grace any occa-
sion short of a Philadelphia assembly.
In the language of the turf, she “wins
by a neck,” too, for under the severe
lines of the Gothic tailor-made stock
is concelaed a fixing that is as sheer
and as delicate in its traceries as the
first frost on the maple trees.
But it is the sleeves of her coat that
are the especial, particular repository
for appurtenances, and they vary in
number according to the size of the
up-to-date sleeve. The humble but
necessary tooth brush comes first,
and is followed by the comb, which
comes down in the general avalanche
on the bed beside the hair-brush, hand-
chiefs, stockings and the extra belt.
Sleeve number two contains the even-
ing gloves and the light veil—Phila-
delphia Record.
Care of the Hair,
A ruby
tised also #f one would care properly
for the hair.
Curling of hair is exceedingly
doubtful. The heat kills the hair, and
dead hair tends to fall out. If you
must curl the hair use soft silk rags
with which to do it. Sheet lead and
hard papet are almost as bad as the
curling tongs. A word of advice to
men. Don’t wear the tight-fitting,
heavy hats or caps. These impede
the free circulation of blood to the
scalp, and as a result the hair is not
properly nourished, nor is the dead
waste carried away. The growing
root is suffocated through lack of oxy-
gen, and in the end the hair dies and
falls out.—Prof. A. P. Knight in the
Queen’s Monthly.
Morning Caliers.
“Did you ever have a morning call-
er?” asked a woman of her neighbor.
“Is there any one sO aggravating as
that visitor who cannot understand
that you have important duties to per-
form and insists’ upon Temaining an
hour?”
“Yes; I had a morning caller,” was
the answer. “Your mind is certain to
stray away from the conversation to
the sewing that you were hurrying to
‘finish or the cake that you left in the
pantry only half mixed. .I wonder
whether there is a woman who has
the courage to step to the door and ex-
cuse herself from a morning caller?
Why should not one be excused?
Surely her time is as valuable as that
of a business man. But then one
knows that the caller would put a
strong construction upon such an act
and feel injured.
“A man engaged at his work would
not be expected to drop it at any time
to chat with a friend, though it
might be a more eniovable way to
pass the time; neither would a woman
who is employed outside her home,
but the long-suffering housewife must
neglect her work. It devolves upon
her to solve this vexing question.
“Of course, if the caller is on terms
of more or less intimhcy with the
family, the housekeeper may go on
with her duties while she chats and
trusts that her friend has good sense
not to be offended. Even that is in-
convenient, however, for the morning
duties rarely keep the housekeeper in
one particular spot long encugh to
carry on a jointed conversation. It is
not very pleasant to call out your an-
swer to a cuestion from the pantry,
while vou are measuring flour, or
while you are backing down the cellar
stairs to your storeroom. Few women
can successfully work when inquisitive
eves are following every movement,
counting the number of eegs that are
put into the cake, or whether the lin-
en is of the best quality.
“Why doesn’t the housekeeper gent-
ly or firmly. tell her friends that she
is very busy mornings, and then if
they are offended she will bear the
consequences bravely and live through
it? Woman’s time has alwavs been
treated too lightly, and the one who
sets the least value upon it is herself.
We are not apt to be taken at a great-
er value than we put upon ourselves.
“It is not the mere caller that cans-
es so much annoyance, but the pro-
longed caller, who is always going,
but never goes.”
Fashion Notes.
Serge is pronounced all right for
walking gown.
From tip to toe the summer girl will
be embroidered.
Narrow Irish lace vies ‘with Valen
cienneg for smartness.
A white linen parasol bordered with
colored batiste is good.
Peacock designs flaunt themselves
in the face of superstition.
New are the belts of open eyelet em-
Mair generally begins to turn gray
first upon the temples. In most peo-
le gray hairs show themselves at
But there
re wide variations in time. The im-
mediate cause of gray hair is in the
ilure of the cells at the growing
joint to manufacture the pigment nec-
§sary to give the color to the hair.
¥hen this change takes place at mid-
it marks a gradual lowering of the
tality of the skin, and to some extent
[ course, a decadence of general vi-
ty. In estimating, however, the
mediate cause of baldness and of
ay hair, a very important factor
st always be taken into account,
nely, heredity.
“The first rule for the care of the
gir is to wash it. This should be
pne about once a week with luke-
rm water and Castile soap.
Another important rule is to comb
ind brush the hair three or four times
day, thus bringing more blood to the
dead
Brushing brings more blood
@ promote the growth and vigor of |
Massage of the scalp has |
fay
{ the eyes, but the bri
hraidary aver calared linings
DTH TSS 2 v
The new hats are lovely enough to
tempt a woman rushing the season a
little.
Numbers of hats are made of trans-
parent Neapolitan in black, white and
colors. i
Spats of white linen and picue are
threatened to succeed the cloth omnes
so much worn.
Embroidered batistes, linens, coarse
linens of the canvas order. and thin}
etamines are inrgreat vogue.
The prettiest lingerie waist is thef
“baby” style, buttoned in back, with
little round voke of lace and high
cuffs to match.
The woman who can’t wear all white
fastens a big red bow to her bodice
front and wears a twinkling little pair
of red slippers. 1
“Glove handkerchiefs” are batiste
handkerchiefs so small as to be worn
inside the gloves on the palm of the
hand, or in the little bags used for toi-
let necessities,
Hats
i
down far over)
s are much wider]
generally
in back than in front, and all the trim |
ming is the back or at the left sid<p
toward the back.
ThE BOLT
A SCHOLARLY SUNDAY SERMON BY
BISHOP BURGESS, Di D.
Subject: The Church’s Foundation.
Brooklyn, N. Y.—In the Church of
the Messiah the Right Rev. Frederick
Burgess, D. D., Bishop of Long Island,
on Sunday preached: from. thé. text,
Matthew xvi:13-20, and. particularly
the passage: “And whom say ye that
I am? Simon Peter answered: Thou
art the Christ, the Son of the living
God. © Jesus. answered and said:
Blessed art thou, Simon Barjona; flesh
and blood hath not revealed it unto
thee, but My Father which is in
Heaven. ‘I say also unto thee:: Thou
art Peter, and upon this rock will k
build My church.” . He said; sf
These words can be scarcely under-
stood apart from their context. The
author of the Bampton Lectures
pointed ont that Caesarea was the
borderland of the Jew and the Gen-
tile, and thus was a fitting place for
proclaiming the divinity of Him .who
came to save, not one race, but: all
mankind. Later study of our Lord’s
life revealed the fact that He was at
that time truly in exile. It becomes
almost self-evident, as we read the
Gospels, that our Lord was suffering
depression and felt that His work
was, to a certain extent, a failure.
The cities of Capernaum and Corazin,
where He had preached and labored,
were all against Him: and you can all
recall the sad farewell which He gave
to those cities. In the Gospel of St.
John we can see evidence that a large
number of people who at first had
believed in Jesus were gradually es-
tranged from Him by His teaching
and by His unpopularity. He had
been forced to leave His native land
and go into exile. The words which
He spake to the Syrophoenecian
women, “It is not meet to take the
children’s bread and give it to the
dogs,” shows the sadness, almost bit-
ter sadness; and when He came to
His own “His own received Him not.”
In one way and another, we can see
how bitterly - He , felt and, while we
have no real picture, yet, neverthe-
less, we can, in fancy, see Him, as we
read the Gospels, with His little band,
going ahead of them through those
northern valleys; and we know that
it was no figure of speech, but the
truth; when He said: “The foxes have
holes, and the birds of the air have
nests; but the Son’of Man hath not
where to lay ‘His héad.” °
Now this confession of Peter. marks
the end of this period of exile. - From
that time on He set His face toward
Jerusalem. Almost immediately there
followed the transfiguration on, prob-
ably, Mount Hermon, and then He
started, with His twelve apostles, to
Jerusalem to suffer and to die. . Now
this passage reveals deep truth. It
reveals the foundation on. which
Christ built His church. But, as you
understand, we must not lose sight of
His humanity. The heresy which
sees in Christ an unreal man, one who
cannot be touched by our sorrows, our
joys or our disappointments, has al-
ways been condemned in the councils
and by the crceds of the church. Our
Lord could not have been truly man
if He had not hungered and thirsted
and been weary sometimes. He had
not sought for help if sometimes He
had felt the depression of loneliness
and disappointment, though only once
did it find expression, namely, on the
cross when He said: “My God, My
God, why hast Thou forsaken Me.”
This period of exile, then, was a per-
ijod of depression. Men had deserted
Him by thousands; the people whom
He had cured and taught were all
gone now. And perhaps He feared,
as He asked His apostles that crucial
question: “Whom do men say that I,
the Son” of Man, am?’ If, however,
He did fear, whatever He feared was
dissipated by the perfect faith of
Peter’s clear, strong answer: “Thou
art the Christ, the son of the living
God.” And one who has ever tried
to do real work for humanity and to
help forward the kingdom of God
must lave known something of this
depression, and must also have known
something of this joey when at. least
He had found one man who believed
in Him and in His message and who
was ready to ‘stand out before the
world and confess his faith, * oy
‘Our Lord, then; founded His church
upon a man—upen Peter, if you will.
He did not found it upon a doctrine, or
a building, or an army, or a ‘treasury.
No, but on'a warm, rugged :human
heart. He said to Peter: Thou.art.a
rock, and on this rock I will build -My
church and the gates of hell shall not
prevail against it.” Those who want
to see in this passage a long, hierati-
cal line, ever connecting itself with a
bishopric, must, I suppose, be allowed
to hug their delusion as long as they
live. But a sane criticism will always
reveal the fact that our Lord was as-
serting that He would found His
church - upon. loving kuman hearts,
upon, men who believed in Him, in
honor and dishonor, through good re-
port or evil report, in sickness and
health, as well as in proverty and
exile. Our Lord believed in men; He
trusted them. It has been well said
of Him that indignation, even anger,
were spoken of men, but to condemn,
never. Man, as man, was worthy of
respect.
Now that has not been the attitude
of the great writers and generals and
leaders of mankind. Alexander, Cae-
sar, regarded men as SO many pawns
to be moved about as they willed.
“What are a million souls to me?”
boasted Napoleon when he was
taunted with the loss of an army; so
in philosophy we find the same dis-
crediting of men. But, Christ taught
a different estimate of mankind to
His apostles, and St. Paul reverenced
men, even when He saw their sins and
rebuked them. The parable of the
prodigal son and the epistle to the Ro-
mans have Deen contrasted, and it
has been said of the one that it is ten-
derly and pathetically human as he
rises above his rabbinical law to teach
the death of the Lord and the riches
of the goodness of God. All through
that epistle to the Romans there runs
the burden of the glory of man’s origin
and man’s destiny: “We are children
of God, and if children of God, then
x, joint heirs with Christ, if so be
with Him.” There is man’s
gloric heritage in that he is made in
the image of God. So with all the
apostles and true followers of Jesus
throughout the world,
they have al-
ways reverenced men. have
They
seen the greatness of men’s cgpacity
even when they have seen the evil as
it is shown so in our great cities,
which in some respects equal Sodom
and Gomorrah. Beneath all the ex-
ternal they can see the .power of the
human heart. “Who is that common-
place looking fellow?” said a man to
Abraham Lincoln. “Friend,” replied
the President, “the Lord prefers com-
monplace people, and that is the rea-
son why. he has made so many of
them.” Now, our Lord estimated men
at their true worth. He knew their
power, and He founded His church on
men—on Peter. and James and: John
and Thomas .and Paul. As our Dbe-
loved collect expresses it: “Thou hast
founded upon the apostles and proph-
ets, Christ, Himself, being the head
cornerstone.”
To. that church you all belong. You
.have taken the step which announces
that consciously you have come to
your full conception of ‘what that
‘church is, and that you are members in
‘it. - Now, what Christ wants of you is,
not your money or your influence, but
He wants your heart, your devotion,
but He wants you to stand really,
purely, honestly, truly, steadfastly for
Him. He wants you to be built up,
| as St. Peter expresses it, “as lively
stones” in His church. It has been
said that to suppose that the Christian
Church could have been founded by
any save Jesus Christ would be as
absurd as to suppose that Strasburg
Cathedral had been formed through
the centuries by the conflux of the
dust of the streets. Now, it is into
that church that you have come, and
you are to become stones in the build-
ing. You are to grow strong by being
true and earnest, and pure and tem-
perate. Buttresses and arches and
roofs are not more really the fruit of
human architect’s work than temper-
ance and chastity and honesty are the
fruits of the Divine Architect's love.
“On this rock I-will build My church.”
The Church of Jesus Christ will be
stronger to-night and stronger to-mor-
row, because you have been confirmed
to-day, if you honestly keep the prom-
ises you have made to-night.
After Revival=What?
The remarkable religious movement
which not long since arose in the West
like a: little cloud no bigger than a
man’s hand, is apparently spreading
throughout Christendom. It has al-
ready assumed proportions which com-
mand attention from all quarters and
has won for it general recognition as
“the revival.” Every gcnuine Chris-
tian, at least, will be on the watch to
make the utmost of its best features
and the least of its" blemishes. It is
alike: impossible that the latter can be
essentially divine, or that the former
can be exclusively human. .
Here, as in all Christian “salvation,”
it is imperative that there should be
the distinet recognition of co-operation.
For it is always true that God can no
more save man without himself than
man can save himself without God.
This principle, however, compels us not
only to. look with reverence for the
Divine element in present events, but
to consider carefully human issues in
the future. Waves of strong emotion,
be they ever so potent for good, cannot
roll on without cessation. There is an
ebb as well as flow to every tide.
It is none too soon, therefore, to ask
and answer such questions as these:
Whither is this movement leading us?
What will be left when its emotional
force is spent? Will it prove a verita-
ble Nile in its fruit-bearing deposits,
or will it ebb away into ‘Sahara-like
sterility? All evangelical Christians
doubtless hope that the utmost of the
highest will abide. Yet is there ample
room for most serious thought as to
how this more or less transient im
pulse may not only be translated into
something permanent but become the
starting-point of a definitely. higher
conception of Christian doctrine’ and
practice throughout all the churches.
—TFrank Ballard, in London Methodist
Times. :
The Wonder of God.
“He saw that there was no man,
and wondered that there was no inter-
cessor.” Here is a needy world with
its chiefest hope in what intercession
may bring. Here is a God who de-
clares that unlimited blessing may: be
eained: for men through intercession.
Here is yourself with some knowledge
in your own experience of what in-
tercession might mean. ' Yet God waits
and wonders! The phrase is not too
strong. - Remember the missionaries
who have gladly renounced all for the
joy of putting a new light into despair-
ing faces—but they spend little time
in asking for the Light. Remember
the pastors whose calling it is to min-
ister—but they have renounced the
highest and most efficient ministry. Re-
member the myriads who prate cease-
lessly’ about the world’s need of re-
vival—but they talk little about it to
Him who alone can give it. Remem-
ber what you say you believe, recall
what you actually do—and cease to
wonder that God wonders.—Pacific
Baptist.
God is in Circumstances.
It is not by regretting what is irre-
parable that true work is done, but by
making the best of what we are. Itis
not by complaining that we have not
the right tools, but by using well the
tools we have. What we are, and where
we are, is God's providential arrange-
ment—God’s doing, though it may be
man’s misdoing; and the manly and
wise way is to look your failures in
the face and see what can be made
out of them.—F. W. Robertson.
Desire For Obedience.
Obedience must be the struggle and
desire of our life. Obedience, not hard
and forced, but ready, loving and spon-
taneous; the doing of duty, not merely
that the duty may be done, but that
the soul in doing it may become capa-
ble of receiving and uttering God.—
Phillips Brooks. ;
Straightforwardness,
Be sure that straightforwardness is
more than a mateh at last for all the
involved windings of deceit. In your
daily life do what you feel right, 7
what you feel true, and leave,
faith and boldness, the consequence
to God.—F. Robertson.
wm
Have Christian Faith.
Be a Christian, throw yourself upon
God's Word, and get the ability you
want in it. No Christian will eve
good for anything without Christi
courage, or what is the same, C
tian faith.—Horace Bushnell.
‘season has developed has met with
New York City.—Nothing that the
greater enthusiasm’ ‘than’ just such
fancy waists as this one made in skele-
ton style.
bines a blouse or guimpe of lace with
lawn sleeves and a skeleton waist
of pale green crepe messaline which
’
half yards of velvet ribbon to make as
illustrated.
Peasant Waist and Skirt.
Similar to the bretelle gown is the
peasant waist and skirt. The skirt is
made simply and is always wide and
full. The waist is a low necked round
bodice, with straps over the shoulders.
This is a very pretty model for a
young girl. Purple and white foulard
combined with purple velvet made a
charming gown worn by an extremely
blond young woman. The skirt was
box pleated and shirred alternately all
around, and hung quite full from the
waist.
Shirt Waist Sleeves.
There is no feature of a waist that
so marks its date as its sleeve and none
which is so important. Here are two
very excellent models, which will serve
to make any waist of last season up-
to-date and which also can be utilized
for mew material, being among the
latest and best that are shown.
No. 1 is laid in inverted tucks which
are stitched to give a box pleated ef-
fect, while No. 2 is tucked and stitched
flat. Both are gathered at the upper
edges, supplying the generous fulness
at the shoulder, which is so essential
to present styles. Linen and all wash-
A Late Design by May Manton.
Te
Gh
oF
oi
0) 5h
8
fi
’
matches the skirt and is {rimmed with
ruches of the materiai held by velvet
ribbon, but its possibilities are many.
For the fancy waist and half sleeves all
the “chiffon” silks and wools are de-
sirable, while for summer wear there
are many lovely cotton materials, and
the under blouse can correctly be made
from all-over embroidery in lingerie
style or from muslin embroidered by
hand as well as of lace.
The blouse is made in guimpe style
with sleeves that consist of deep cuffs
with full portions above and which
can be made over fitted foundations
or left unlined as liked. The fancy or
skeleton waist i ade with front and
back portions, which are pleated at the
shoulder, and the half sleeves. and is
held at front and back by ornamental
straps. As illustrated the two are sep-
arate. the guimpe being easily cleansed,
but they can be joined and made to
form one waist if preferred.
The quantity of material required for
the medium size is four yards twenty-
one, three yards twenty-seven or two
yards forty-four inches wide with two
and a half yards thirty-six inehes wide
and one and three-quarter yards of all-
over lace for guimpe and two and
AN AAA SN A AA NAA SA AAA rs AAA A
Better Than Its Name.
One of the exceedingly rich and nov-
el dresses is very much in the Louis
style. To begin with this
voluminous dress of chiffon
taffeta is of that charming color once]
called pou de soie, or pou de la reine .
inconceiv
louse is
is not to be
cleverly
ad «
these days. 1
ished of yore in
onion, to which it is
{ tical with the r
able materials, silks and wools, and
in fact every known fabric that is used
for waists are suited to the design.
The quantity of material required for
the medium size for either modél is
two and three-eight yards twenty-one
one and three-quarter twenty-seven or
seven-eighth yards forty-four inches
aj wide.
a A A AN NINA PP
to De shunned. There's a shaped
flounce on the tremendous skirt, and it
is set onto the rt by means of three
upstanding empiecements, which re-
| semble stitched tucks.
The Guimpe Important.
There never was a time when the
pe played such an important part
e fashio in old fash-
one
h
plates of
mmerable exa
sees in-
ples: practically iden