aa aun TR RBA SAI LIGHT AND SUMMERY. Those Pretty Washable Fobs. a a Washable affairs seem to be the order of the day, for along with her tub gowns, her parasois which wiil withstand a thorough drenching and her washable coats, comes another little fancy for milady, and this, too, is warranted to survive the process of | vigorous laundering. It is pretty, this latest novelty, is useful | and serviceable, so its success as a sumer aceessory of the smart, Immaculate duck and dimity girl is already an assured fact. The washable fob, as it is called, displays all manner of miniature belongings charac- teristic of the sportswoman, and is, for this Very reason, eminently suited for summer wear. Though gilt spurs, stirrup and horseshoes figure prominently on these new fobs, they could scarcely be called mannish, for dainti- pess saves them from this sad fate. Know- ing the summer woman's fonduess for things fresh, pretty and immaculate, clever minds have been kept busy discovering and de- slgning noveliies which will suit her par- ticular taste, and a genuinely new article is Bow being offered in place of the usual gold or silver fob, which has lately returned to vor, It seems such a simple matter to hit upon this practical little accessory, yet it re- mained for one ingenious feminine mind to originate a device which is bound to please all members of the fair sex. : Decidedly, the washable fob has caught on, and before leaving town for her usual sea- son the summer girl is supplying herself with a generous variety of these little ornaments to match her shirtwaists and summer frocks. Mercerized canvas and fine white pique are used for most of these attractive fobs, while * an air of elegance is secured by having the guard made of white or pale tinted moire ribbon. These more elaborate accessories need not be confined to linen and cotton gowns, for they are pretty with any frock where a fob is suitable. Buckles in enamels to represent one’s fa- vorite college colors are one of the fads. For instance, a pure white moire ribbon, neatly stitched all around and with no ornamenta- tion whatever on the broad lobe, has its narrow pointed strap slipped through a plain gilt buckle enameled in Yale or Columbia blue. The crimson shows to advantage against a pale buff linen, while a gun metal siilde on an orange taffeta ribbon forms the tiger combination. Mourning fobs are made of dull silk ribbon, fastened with gun metal trimmings. There are other decorations newer than and equally as attractive as the above. Even in such 0 | | li | i ) | | ll be LARCHMONT. trifies does the approaching coronation show ity influence, for one of the smartext fobs presents the trio of graceful plumes sur- mounting a coronet as its decoration. The design is embroidered in colors on the lobe, and the enamel of the tiny oval slide harmo- pizes with the shade used for the nodding feathers. The coronet is usually black, and the plumes may be blue, pink, green or red. When this design is embroidered upon soft mercerized Oxford or lustrous linen the ef- fect is very smart and adds a decided charm to almost any stylish outing dress. With a Delft blue linen frock one of these watch fobs was worn. It was of white linen, worked in a curious character, either Chinese or Arabic in style, and done in Delft blue silk, with just a touch of black to give it dash. The buckle was blue, too, though an- other fob of the same style displayed a gun metal slide. For the sport-loving young woman there are numerous attractive designs in dull gold and enamel. SUBURBAN. Instead of the round lobe end, upon which Is worked in embroidery pattern in colors, these sporting novelties have stirrups, spurs, bits and crops fastened at the end of the nar- row linen strap, while the buckle may be & horseshoe, whip or of the same design as the pendant. A scarlet linen fob, ornamented with tiny crossed golf clubs, made a pretty little nov- elty to be worn with a smart golf costume, and a tennis enthusiast will surely choose for her white serge costume a fob of purest white linen, decorated with gilt racquet and _ ball. At a ping pong tourney the prize took the form of one of these washable fobs, having its pretty slide made to represent a small vellum racquet and celluloid ball. To wear with these new watchguards are designed some very pretty belts and stocks to match, and the sets are practical and ex- tremely smart, without being too elaborate. Some of the stocks are furnished with 4mall bow tles, fastened with fancy slides, and others have long Ascot scarfs, the ends of which are embroidered in the same plume or Oriental design as that seen upon the fob. If there is no metal buckle used upon the bow tie, then just above the knot, on the front of the plain linen or pique stock, is worked one of these attractive ornaments. Belts to match are scarcely more than an inch wide at the back, tapering gently to- ward front, where both pointed ends slip through a plain or fancy buckle. the | BY ELISE DEY. We all know the shirtwaist young wo- man. Her trimness, immaculate getup ind air of dainty freshness proclaim her by far the most attractive feature of out- dcor summer life. The splendid color which glows in her cheeks, her move- ments, lithe and graceful, win our un- bounded admiration, while before the dainty harmony of her smart little cos- tume we prostrate ourselves in highest praise. There are shirtwaist girls and shirtwaist girls, however, but it isn't a difficult mat- ter to recognize those who possess a proper sense of uniformity and dress with a Dotiece knowledge of shirtwaist require- ments. . After much coaching and hard prac tice the shirtwaist devotee has finally mastered the art of ascots and small bows; the belts, of course, came to her in- Stinctively, but hats—there is where she frequently blunders, either through igno- rance or a careless disregard of propriety. I'he transgression is unpardonable, never- theless, and a fussy hat worn with a trim shirtwaist stamps the wearer as badly dressed, no matter how smart may be the rest of her costume. Since the shirtwaist has grown to be such an important part of the summer wardrobe all manner of pretty accesso- ries have been devised to complete this natty dress. Of all these smart effects none, however, plays so prominent a part as the hat selected to accompany this par- ticular style of gown. The shirtwaist hat known term among feminine belongings, and there are several manufacturers, as well as retailers, who supply exclusively this class of millinery. Not every hat cre- ator is able to build a smart tailor model, for, as with gowns, it is much easier to cover up lines with soft fluffy masses of trimming. Dashing lines are, however, the one thing needed to make the shirtwaist hat 4 success, and it naturally follows that is already a well- - much less ornamentation is used for this style than for other models. In contour the tailor hat conforms to the prevailing modes, while the size may be medium or Small, according to individual taste. Hats Large This Season. This season the hats are a bit larger than usual, and have a low, flat crown with a gently rolling brim made most fre. quently of pure white braid, with a smart trimming of black velvet ribbon and per- haps an ornamentation of pearl pins or fancy steel buckles. The same pendant drapery which is characteristic of all spring and summer millinery is likewise evident on tailor hats, though usually this consists of loops and ends of broad velvet ribbon. Turban effects are popular and su are tricorners, with changes in outline, for the sake of variety. Panamas are to be worn to some extent, and the smaller hats are pressed into a fedora shape and trimmed with a two- inch band of black velvet, which ties in a broad black quill, with its simple knot placed in front, just to the left. Larger styles in this very expensive weave are draped with scarfs, ornamented with smart knots of ribbon and sometimes trimmed with fancy feather rosettes. Green, in a soft reseda shade, makes a very pretty combination with the yellow- ish tint of the Panama, and a touch of black introduced in a knot of velvet or leng-blade quill gives the hat a decided dash. Rather rough straws, woven in a delicate plaid, say yellow and white beige or brown and white, are effectively trim- med with fancy Tuscan or chrysanthemum braid ornaments, such as cabochons, fringed rosettes, buckles and straps. These modish conceits give the hat a tailory air, which is appropriately suggestive of its destined use. The term shirtwaist is no longer re- stricted to plain starched affairs, and as these smart garments have taken unto themselves many airs and graces, so also have hats which are designed especially to accompany them become less severe and plain than formerly. One might almost consider the pretty 1in- gerle waist as an elaborate species of this tailor class of apparel, and It naturally fol- lows that a degree more of fussiness in this respect allows of the same departure with regard to the hat. Plumes, flowers, cbiffons and fine laces are certainly inappropriate for shirtwaist hats, for this term includes everything in headwear designed for outdoor sports, morn- ing wear and for any occasion when the simple little waist may be assumed. ere are, however, many pretty little scarfs of fine batiste almost as soft and sheer as mousseline de soie, and these are very good style when twisted about the crown of a flat round tailor hat. Some of the coarser laces are permissible, but, as a general thing, smarter effects are secured by the use of handsome ribbons, quills, wings and simple ornaments. The Frenchwoman chooses chic wings for ber equivalent of the shirtwaist hat, and her modish shade of the rough straw will furnish an excellent Background for the smart low-lying wings and simple twist of black velvet ribbon. This latter trimming figures upon almost every tailor hat in one way or another, and nine times out of ten r BLACK VELVET MAKES A SMART TRIMMING. it is tied in a broad bow at the back, with streamer effect. As the summer advances the shirtwalst hat loses just a bit of its typical severity, rolling and curving gently about the face, with just a suggestion of softness In its trimming. Women who possess any sense of the fit- ness of things will readily make the distine- tlon between correct and incorrect hats for wear with shirtwalst costumes, and they will be as particular in this respect as in the selection of the proper hair ornament or gloves to harmonize with a dainty decollete frock. / The first point they will observe, of course, will be that of selecting a becoming style, and then they will bear in mind the im- portance of obtaining a certain freshness of effect, combined with that indescribable quality called chic. It is important to choose a hat which has the appearance of being light and cool, and a braid that is not very fine Is better style, especially now that rough effects are con- sidered extremely smart. While the hat is, perhaps, of more consequence than any of the many little shirtwaist accessories, these, too, require consideration and careful selec- Hoe, for Jae Snes effect of the costume may e spoile an inappropri J fitting or ppropriate collar or badly Wide Choice in Neckwear, With the vast variety of well-made neck- wear at everyone's disposal, there is abso- lutely no excuse for any woman appearing in unbecoming or passe stocks. Simple ef- (fh DINDIGUL. fects go best with the plain starched shirt- waist, and these may match or contrast with the waist fabric. Ascots are always smart and appropriate if well tied, and the pin with which the puff Is fastened should, by all means, be of some sporting design—a horseshoe, golf club or any one of the fancy ornaments suggestive of outdoor summer life. Then there are numerous plain and smaller stocks which are very good style, simple to adjust and universally becoming. Above all things, avoid soft effects, such as lace, chiffon and ribbon stocks, for the cotton waist; reserve these fancy affairs for wear with elaborate blouses, if you must wear them at all. There are so many lovely little washable that there really seems no reason for choos- ing any other kind. These come daintily embroidered, and are really exquisite enough to accompany the finest of band-wrought lingerie waists. Bolts are a matter of taste, as well as of figure, for what becomes the slender woman rarely looks well upon her stout sister. BY no means have the belt too dressy. S trim bands of suede, washable canv or plaid open-meshed linen are very pretty, while curious antique buckles. mounted upon inconspicuous ribbons, are always goo¢ style, so long as they are not too large and brilliant. ’ Those broad elastic belts, ornamented with cabochons, have again become popular in Paris, yet they are only half-heartedly re- ceived in other fashion centers. However, there are quantities of other styles from which to choose. and one can never make a mistake by avoiding fancy effects and cling- Ing to the smart tailor-made in belts. as well | as in ail other sbhirtwaist accessories. scarls aud stocks which look light and cool ’ ROUGH STRAW AND SHADED QUILL, SUMMER NOVELTIES IN NECKWEAR. In anticipation of the hot summer days to come neckwear designers have been busily engaged trying to devise some effect which will look smart and at the same time stand the severe test of humid weather. After many unsuccessful efforts a certain manufacturer who caters exclusively te feminine wants has hit upon a novel fashe fon which no doubt will prove a favorite before June suns have spread their wilting rays. There isn’t a question about its success with the fashionable woman who desires comfort above all things, and as this new collar has the advantage of giving ons a youthful appearance it begins its existence with much in its favor. From the small Eton boa this progressive designer borrowed his ideas, for he has copied almost exactly the round turnover collar which rolls back, leaving the throat exposed in a picturesque fashion. These collars are made of fine white lawn and dimity, sometimes snowing a narrow border of a color, and there are ties to match which are knotted with loose, flowing, Byron-like ends. With summer shirtwaists such collars are very effective and pretty, and certainly they offer enough of a change to insure their popularity. Considering their great comfort in the matter of coolness they cannot fail to ap- peal to the majority of the fair sex, though, precisely as was the case last summer with the collarless blouse, the one great draw- back still exists. This consists of that ugly disfiguring mark which 99 out of ev- ery 100 feminine necks display, and which renders the wearing of the new collar almost an impossibility until some means have been taken to get rid of this unfortu. pate blemish. Besides the dark line which is the result of high collars and stiff stocks many women, especially those who have passed the age of 25, show a slight shriv- eled appearance of the skin just where the top of the collar comes. This is due to the tight band worn about the throat, and a neglect of the care of the muscles which surround this part of the neck. Since low collars are in vogue, it be- hooves us each and every one to get the neck into a presentable shape for this newest fad, and if the following directions are carefully followed for two or three weeks che brown mark will gradually dis- appear, while the skin will become firm again. Lemon juice is about the safest remedy for removing the discoloration, and with an application of this every night, rubbed in gently but thoroughly, a change will soon be noticed in the tone of the skin. In the morning comes the treatment which improves the texture of the skin, and this should be neither vigorous nor long. First a gentle rubbing of the throat with some good skin food, then a few exercises which call into play the muscles of the throat. If you start right in leaving the neck exposed to the light and air you will find that the skin will very soon assume a healthy appearance, for what it needs most are these very things. The woman who realizes that it is here en her throat the telltale marks first disclose her age will be eager to overcome this physical tendency. DOLLY VARDEN. “> > Et ss —— |
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