HOME -DRESSMAKING IJ^JI FOR SCHOOL and COLLEGE NEEDS-B Y MAY MANTON LATEST FASHION NOTES " PLAITS MAKE A VERY from flip FASHTONT PFNTPPT^ IMPORTANT FEATURE OF trom the t AbmUJN th \ 1 KL. », THE WINTER FASHIONS THE MIDDY COSTUME IS ALWAYS A DESIRABLE ONE FOR SCHOOL AND COLLEGE WEAR THESE are three o! the smartest costumes that could be suggested for the school and college girl. The top coat shown at the extreme left is an exceedingly smart one, yet so simple that any home dressmaker can make it without the least little hit of difficulty. It is loose, held by the belt and the collar, can be turned up about the throat as it i 9 here, or rolled down over the coat. In the illustration, the material i 9 duvetyn with trimming of fur but this is a < oat_ that can be copied in the most serviceable cloth for everyday use. or in velvet for dres9 occasions, and be equally correct in both. For the • 6 year size will be needed, syds.syds. of material 36 in. wide, 4J' vds. 44. yds. 54. with yds. of fur banding 5 in. wide for collar and cuFs. The middv costume is always a desirable one for school and colletre wear. This middv is a new one. with big patch pockets and with the 'ulness held by the smocking that is •■o fashionable this season. In the picture, it is made of blue cr6pe de chine and worn over a blue serge skirt, but the model is a good one for all the materials that girls like for earments of the sort, for the simple rottons and linens as well as for the rrepes and silks. The skirt is straight ind plaited. It can be finished at the high wnist line over webbing, or. cut off and joined to a smooth fitting yoke with suspenders attached For the 16 year size will be needed, for the middy, 5% yds. of material 27 in. wide, 3 X yds. 36, 3 vds. 44: for the •kirt 4 yds. of materia! 36 or 44 in wide, 2% yds. 54. Plaits make a really important feature of the winter fashions. The :oat-suit at the right shows plaits both in the skirt and in the coat and :.»■ most attractive. The yoke always 'f- youthful in effect and the belt which extends over the sides only is exceed ingly charming. In the picture, the suit is made of whipcord with trim ming of fur, but it can be copied in any seasonable material. The vel veteens are verv charming this sea (■on and are much liked for girls ouit9, the velvet-finished cloths are being much worn, broadcloth is always in demand r>nd the seree finished fabrics are i!so exceedingly fashionable. The skirt 's plain r front and at back to give the pane cllect, with plaits at the sides. Km the 16 year size will be needed, to the coat, 3 yds. of material 36 1: wide, 2VI yds. 44, 2\i yds. 54 in." widi with yds. of fur banding 5 in wide; for tne skirt will be needed, 5 J' t yds. of material 36 in. wide 4jg yds 44. yds. 54. HERE are some of the prettiest and most fashionable frocks that could be suggested. In material as well as in cut and style the frocks make excellent examples of the winter at its best, but tney can of course be varied in a great many different ways. The yoke Irock (8835) is shown here will high neck and long sleeves, makin « simple afternoon dress, but if • h made without yoke and with sho' sleeves, it can be converted to dancing frock, and when treated that way, it would be shirred at < i waist line, in place of being finish, with a belt. Chiffon taffeta, mai qvnettc, chiffon, crfipe de chine an-: all similar materials are charming treated in this way. For the T2 year (•ize will be needed, 5 yds. of material 27 in. wide 3% yds. 36, 314 yds. 44, with yd. 27 in. wide for the yoke and iJ4 yds. for the trimming. The fur trimmed frock is in Russian s-tyle. It is closed at the shoulder in characteristic fashion and can be finished with a choker collar, as it is here, or can be made without a collar and with the neck cut to form H slight V, but girls who find the high neck comfortable will like this stvle for it is essentially smart and the fur trimmine is one of the features of the -eason. For the 12 year size will be needed. 4% yds. of material 27 in. wide, 3% yds. 36, 3% yds. 44. with 1 'A yds. of fur banding. • 'HE middy dress is one of the best Jf liked for school and for play time and the little coat shown litre is so available that it can be used for almost any occasion. The models are both eminently satisfactory and desirable. The middy frock is a very new one. made with the blouse that can be worn as it is here, over the skirt or cut a little shorter and finished with a hem and elastic. The tkirt is plaited and is ioined to a yoke and ihis yoke is shaped at its lower edge to be exceptionally at tractive and becoming. To give an especially sailor-like touch, the edges Hie laced together at the back. The flceves may be made long or to the jlbows. In the illustration, the ma terial is white serge with trimming of blue taffeta and braid. It is a very "'retty little frock and the combina ion makes a very charming little iress, but it would, of course, be more serviceable in ali blue. • The little coat is essentially smar with its big patch pockets and bel hat make such important features •> he season's fashions. It is made .; a rough finished cloth with collar a 11: ruffs of velvet and the collar may b n'orn as it is here or rolled open wi l the fronts to form lapels it the day > warm. It is a practical garment 'mart garment and an easy garmen to make and consequently it wem to combine all that is best in th present season. For the 6 year »izr will be needed, 3 yds. of material 31 in. wide, 2X yds. 44, \% yds. 54 ti. wide, with yd. of velvet 20 in. wio. 'or the collar and cuffs. CHILDREN'S DESIGNS IN MANY STYLES—By EVK R Y THING that glitters, every thing that is brilliant, everything that scintillates is to be worn for evening costumes Many of the model gowns are, indeed, so bedecked and perhaps over-bedecked that one is forced to the conclusion that the fashionable women ran scarcely afford to smile at the Indian squaw and her uitfit While (here are a few really 'tandsome costumes shown in which he scintillating effect is used with 'iscretion there are very many more 'tat are over-brilliant and that sug ests that hanging-on of trimming without reason that always hints of the savage instinct. One gown is, for example, of white lace, crystal beads, pearl beads, danglers and garlands, until it is impossible to remember anything but a mass of rich materials put together without thought and without cause and »utely not making a whole that is >n any way beautiful or desirable. I.ike many another good effect, the scintillating trimming must be used with moderation if it is to produce a good result. A really handsome gown is, lor example, made of -jreen net over white satin veiled with white net. The green takes the form of a succession of panel- and each of these panels is edged with a border of crystal beads, while this narrow border are scattered con ventional figures that also are a mass of fine crystal beads. The bodice con sists of the net with :hiffon, effec tively draped and shows just enough of the bead trimming to give a touch of brilliancy The color effect is really beautiful and yet one is not dazzled by the display There has' been a very great effort nude this season to give us something new. something different to silence the statement that Paris was under a cloud. While manv of the results arc attractive and while on? is filled with admiration for the workers, there is n great deal that is extreme and that must be looked at askance. The trains that are worn with the short skirts are really grotesque ir. many instances. Only new and again, once and awhile, does one make a good effect, and when that is seen there is sure to be a connection between the train and the gown. As a matter of fact, no very short skirt ever can be oretty with a train, but there are de grees of ugliness and some are iess offensive than others. A Worth cos tume of black velvet, for example, is made quite short at the front and at the sides with the irregular edge to the skirt that is such a feature, and is faced with watermelon pink velvet ribbon showing just a picot edge below the black. It extends into a narrow train at the back, but the rkirt is lengthened gradually—the train is not hung over a short skirt as is so often the case. Undoubtedly there is beauty in the court-train, but it must be well handled, the queer, narrow pendage that is hung on irre spective of the rest of the costume, MAY MANTON Hoes not make a good effect, let it be sponsored by whom it mav. Happily all the examples of dress are not extreme and of questionable beauty, however, for there are many lovely costumes and many color effects that are really delightful. A very lovely younggirls eveninggownis made of chameleon taffeta in shades of vellow with iust a hint of pinlc The skirt is full and gathered at the upper edge, finished with a wide hem and at intervals for its entire length are insets of gold gauze, approximately one inch in width while this same pauze makes a top of approximately three or four inches in depth: the ma teria' is cut away beneath. At the left side, there is t little drapery ar ranwed and this drapery is held by a single pink rose. The bodice is sur plice at the back but has a wide girdle at the front that disappears under the surplice back, and the soft drapery above is of silk tulle. The short, puffed sleeves are of silk and the whole gown gives the effect of quaint, girlish charm that is fascinating. Seen as was among a great many of the strange ind extreme sort, it made a picture not soon to be forgot ten in its very simplicity was found its charm It is never the fussy or the over-elaborate costume that lingers in the memory or holds the eve. Evening wraps all evidently are planned with »h<? -onviction that the winter is to be a cold one: well, woman is adaptable, she wi'l not admit that she suffers. At all events, one and all coats are made with huge col lars that fairly muffle the throat, and these collars for the most part are of lur. Sometimes it is the entire skin, giving the animal effect, again it is the neck-muff or huge turned-up collars that suggests the Arctic cos tumes and again it may be just a great big loose collar that drapes the shoulders and the throat, but it i< fur or so lavishly trimmed with fur that it practically means the same thing._ Everv wonderfully beautiful material seems to have been called upon for the making: the lovely waterfall velvets, as they are called, are favorites, chiffon velvet and plain velvet, brocaded silks and moire silks, all are shown and as a matter of course, they make a superb effect with the fur and for the most part, the wraps show plain linings of match ing color or of white, for this season, the gorgeousness is on the outside. A |ovely one is of waterfall velvet with a little wider lib than chiffon and the shimmering effect that always suggests the dropping of water from a height. The color is pale blue and • lie collar and the trimming one the sleeves consists of black fox fur. It is really a superb garment, simple in its lines, dignified in its cut and ex quisitely beautiful in color and ma terial —an ideal garment for the opera or for the dance. The wraps are not always so simple in cut, however; a handsome one of pink velvet is long and plain at the front, but with a THIS Is one of the prettiest little frocks (No. 8821) that the season has to offer, and at the same time, one o' the simplest and easiest to make. It is straight at the lower edge and con.-equently can be cut from flounc ing. It consists of only one-piece for the skirt and hody portion, which is shirred and arranged over a lining that holds it in place. The sleeves are sewed to the arm-holes, li a simpler dress is wanted, the smocking or shirring may be omitted. The design may of course be copied in any i-easonable mareria! the pretty challis and other light weigh, wools of the sort as well as in the various cotton fabrics, but the flouncing makes 1 charming effect and a v-rv dainty (rock and with the smallest pcHsible labor. For the 4 year size will be needed. 2 1 / i yds of flouncing 26 in. wide, with •/■i vd. ct plain material 36 in. wide, or V,-> vds. oi plain material 27 in. 2% vds. 36. 214 yds. 44.. This is a season of renllv wonderful loaking materials. The wool velours illustrated is marvellously beautiful, there are all sorts of similar effects and therf- are a great many novelties tha' show stripes of contrasting ma terials in self color, while t he fur :loths are exceptionally attractive This coat is very simple one to make, yet it giv°s the newest and smartest lines. It hangs loose and free, requiring no fitting in consequence. The patch pockets are both convenient and smart. For the school coat, corduroy would he good or frieze or Scotcn cheviot or any similar sturdy material ol the sort and for the more* dressy coat the wool velours are desirable and any nne of the handsomer cloak ings already mentioned Since the pattern is the improved one, with basting line and seams, the coat can be cut and made easily and quickly with assurance of success For the 12 year size will be needed, t yds. of material 36 in. wide. \V> vds. 44 or 54. One ot the prettiest possible Irocks lor the tiny children is shown in No 8839. It Itangs 111 straight lines from the smooth yoke and is thoroughly comfortable as well as attractive. In HINTS for the HOME NEEDLE WOMAN jXlj-.*- +ljr , r\ /Ti L FH 3* ; V">V(J* •" ,-VV - V' f -iw?" • .• * >X*. HERK IS a design lor embroider ing a tab's cover thirtv-six inches m diameter. The scalloped edge is to be pa Ided and buttonholed The »rems are to be outlined and the remainder ol the design cm be worked either solidly or j.s evelets. sort of deep yoke at the back, t> which the full, shirred portion is attached that is finished with a two inch heading. Worn by a very tall, straight woman, the effect is good, but the fulness coming just about the shoulder line is a little dangerous for the figure not built on the svelte line 9. The simple coats are to &•. preferred in every way and are a< very beautiful. A good model tha. serves alike for the slender and for the stout, is made with real raglan sleeves and a very high co.lar. Today it was seen in rose pink waterfall velvet, with a wide collar, deep cuffs and a wide band down at the lower edge, all of white fox. It was volumi nously full, yet the velvet was so soft and pliable that it clothed the figure in a most charming way. Another handsome coat is made of rich bro-. cade with a band at the lower edge, with cuffs and with a rolling collar which in this instance extends quite to the waist line, all of black lynx. The coat is plain, almost to the point of severity, with the drooping shoul ders and with a few plaits at the front, where it is drawn together and held by a fur clasp, an eminently prac tical coat, one that can be worn both tor afternoon and for evening, is ot' dark blue velvet with bands of chin chi.la squirrel finishing the lower and 'ront edges, the sleeves an! making a wide band at the neck. One of the ioveliest of the chiffon velvets shown, is turquoise blue, wilii trimming of beaver and it would bj difficult to find a more exquisite color effect. The coat is loose and ample with the Japanese sleeves that ara perhaps the be6t of all for evening use. Beneath each arm the fulness is laid in plaits and held by a jewelled ornament of striking design. Tha band of fur at the lower edge u approximately ten inches in width. There is a very wide collar that envelops both neck and shoulders and a band down the front edge and cuffs thnt extend almost if not quits to the elbows. It is a superb coat, a graceful coat and it makes a good example of how simple in cut and yet really beautiful the best gar ments are. i one_ vlew ; It it made of fine whits batiste with trimming of embroider y. In another view, it is shown made ji plain material and finished with hem and tucks, and in still a third view, there is a suggestion for the use ot flouncing. Added to all these possi bilities, the dress can be made with round or high neck, with short or long sleeves. The pattern is the improved one with seams and basting line so that there are no difficulties whatever to be met and the model will be found appropriate for every material that is used for the little children, for the colored lawns, batistes and the like as well as for the white fabrics For the 2 year size will be needed, yds. of material 36 in. wide, 1% yds. 44, with yds. of banding and 3 yds. of embroidery to trim as shown 011 the figure; yds. of flouncing 27 in. wide, and Vi yd. of plain materia' 36 in. wide to make as shown in ilia bat-* • view. ► Girls always .Mice a dress modeled after the sailor costume. Thi3 or.e U exceptionally pretty, taking v er y graceful and becoming lines and nas a certain smartness of its own. Ap propriately, it can be made from many different materials, but serge and gabardine are undoubted favorites, and here, dark blue is trimmed with ivory white. The combination u always a pretty and becoming one, tut of course it is possible to vary the design in many ways in spite of its simplicity. The sailor dress is by no means confined the sailor colors and the dark or African browns and the rich greens are favorite colors of the season. The pattern gives both the true basting line and seams tha frock is an easy one to cut out and to make For th? 10 year size will be needed,' 4 yds. of material 27 in. wide. 3 yds. 2?g vds 44. with yd. 27 in. wtds tor belt or trimming. To pad the scalloos, work chain stitch between the lines, heavier at the centers and lighter at the points; or cut a skein of thread and apply two or more strands over the center of the stamped pattern, keeping within the lines, tack here and there in couch ing style, Catherine; the threads closely at each point of rhe scallops. Button hole closelv over the foundation. Make dolid embroidery by first darn ing backward and forward over 'ho stamped figure and tlvn cover closely with over and over stitches, working in the opposite d : rection of the pad ding. To outline take short stitches, keep the needle toward the right and* work upward. To make the dots, anil leaves as evelets. first run a thread round tilt stamped figures, then cut a slight slit lengthwise, ilien crosswi-a of the l.cm; openings and pierce' the dots with * stiletto, push back tho maitrial on the wrong side and work <dose*y over and «<y*r
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