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FOR SCHOOL and COLLEGE NEEDS-B Y MAY MANTON LATEST FASHION NOTES "
PLAITS MAKE A VERY from flip FASHTONT PFNTPPT^
IMPORTANT FEATURE OF trom the t AbmUJN th \ 1 KL.
», THE WINTER FASHIONS
THE MIDDY COSTUME IS ALWAYS A
DESIRABLE ONE FOR SCHOOL
AND COLLEGE WEAR
THESE are three o! the smartest
costumes that could be suggested
for the school and college girl.
The top coat shown at the extreme
left is an exceedingly smart one, yet
so simple that any home dressmaker
can make it without the least little
hit of difficulty. It is loose, held by
the belt and the collar, can be turned
up about the throat as it i 9 here, or
rolled down over the coat. In the
illustration, the material i 9 duvetyn
with trimming of fur but this is a
< oat_ that can be copied in the most
serviceable cloth for everyday use.
or in velvet for dres9 occasions, and
be equally correct in both. For the
• 6 year size will be needed, syds.syds.
of material 36 in. wide, 4J' vds. 44.
yds. 54. with yds. of fur
banding 5 in. wide for collar and
cuFs.
The middv costume is always a
desirable one for school and colletre
wear. This middv is a new one.
with big patch pockets and with the
'ulness held by the smocking that is
•■o fashionable this season. In the
picture, it is made of blue cr6pe de
chine and worn over a blue serge
skirt, but the model is a good one for
all the materials that girls like for
earments of the sort, for the simple
rottons and linens as well as for the
rrepes and silks. The skirt is straight
ind plaited. It can be finished at the
high wnist line over webbing, or. cut
off and joined to a smooth fitting yoke
with suspenders attached For the
16 year size will be needed, for the
middy, 5% yds. of material 27 in.
wide, 3 X yds. 36, 3 vds. 44: for the
•kirt 4 yds. of materia! 36 or 44 in
wide, 2% yds. 54.
Plaits make a really important
feature of the winter fashions. The
:oat-suit at the right shows plaits
both in the skirt and in the coat and
:.»■ most attractive. The yoke always
'f- youthful in effect and the belt which
extends over the sides only is exceed
ingly charming. In the picture, the
suit is made of whipcord with trim
ming of fur, but it can be copied in
any seasonable material. The vel
veteens are verv charming this sea
(■on and are much liked for girls
ouit9, the velvet-finished cloths are
being much worn, broadcloth is
always in demand r>nd the seree
finished fabrics are i!so exceedingly
fashionable. The skirt 's plain r
front and at back to give the pane
cllect, with plaits at the sides. Km
the 16 year size will be needed, to
the coat, 3 yds. of material 36 1:
wide, 2VI yds. 44, 2\i yds. 54 in." widi
with yds. of fur banding 5 in
wide; for tne skirt will be needed, 5 J' t
yds. of material 36 in. wide 4jg yds
44. yds. 54.
HERE are some of the prettiest
and most fashionable frocks
that could be suggested. In
material as well as in cut and style
the frocks make excellent examples
of the winter at its best, but tney
can of course be varied in a great
many different ways. The yoke
Irock (8835) is shown here will
high neck and long sleeves, makin
« simple afternoon dress, but if •
h made without yoke and with sho'
sleeves, it can be converted to
dancing frock, and when treated
that way, it would be shirred at < i
waist line, in place of being finish,
with a belt. Chiffon taffeta, mai
qvnettc, chiffon, crfipe de chine an-:
all similar materials are charming
treated in this way. For the T2 year
(•ize will be needed, 5 yds. of material
27 in. wide 3% yds. 36, 314 yds. 44,
with yd. 27 in. wide for the yoke
and iJ4 yds. for the trimming.
The fur trimmed frock is in Russian
s-tyle. It is closed at the shoulder in
characteristic fashion and can be
finished with a choker collar, as it is
here, or can be made without a
collar and with the neck cut to form
H slight V, but girls who find the high
neck comfortable will like this stvle
for it is essentially smart and the fur
trimmine is one of the features of the
-eason. For the 12 year size will be
needed. 4% yds. of material 27 in.
wide, 3% yds. 36, 3% yds. 44. with
1 'A yds. of fur banding.
• 'HE middy dress is one of the best
Jf liked for school and for play
time and the little coat shown
litre is so available that it can be
used for almost any occasion. The
models are both eminently satisfactory
and desirable. The middy frock is a
very new one. made with the blouse
that can be worn as it is here, over
the skirt or cut a little shorter and
finished with a hem and elastic. The
tkirt is plaited and is ioined to a
yoke and ihis yoke is shaped at its
lower edge to be exceptionally at
tractive and becoming. To give an
especially sailor-like touch, the edges
Hie laced together at the back. The
flceves may be made long or to the
jlbows. In the illustration, the ma
terial is white serge with trimming
of blue taffeta and braid. It is a very
"'retty little frock and the combina
ion makes a very charming little
iress, but it would, of course, be
more serviceable in ali blue. •
The little coat is essentially smar
with its big patch pockets and bel
hat make such important features •>
he season's fashions. It is made .;
a rough finished cloth with collar a 11:
ruffs of velvet and the collar may b
n'orn as it is here or rolled open wi l
the fronts to form lapels it the day >
warm. It is a practical garment
'mart garment and an easy garmen
to make and consequently it wem
to combine all that is best in th
present season. For the 6 year »izr
will be needed, 3 yds. of material 31
in. wide, 2X yds. 44, \% yds. 54 ti.
wide, with yd. of velvet 20 in. wio.
'or the collar and cuffs.
CHILDREN'S DESIGNS IN MANY STYLES—By
EVK R Y THING that glitters, every
thing that is brilliant, everything
that scintillates is to be worn for
evening costumes Many of the model
gowns are, indeed, so bedecked and
perhaps over-bedecked that one is
forced to the conclusion that the
fashionable women ran scarcely afford
to smile at the Indian squaw and her
uitfit While (here are a few really
'tandsome costumes shown in which
he scintillating effect is used with
'iscretion there are very many more
'tat are over-brilliant and that sug
ests that hanging-on of trimming
without reason that always hints of
the savage instinct. One gown is, for
example, of white lace, crystal beads,
pearl beads, danglers and garlands,
until it is impossible to remember
anything but a mass of rich materials
put together without thought and
without cause and »utely not making
a whole that is >n any way beautiful
or desirable. I.ike many another
good effect, the scintillating trimming
must be used with moderation if it is
to produce a good result. A really
handsome gown is, lor example, made
of -jreen net over white satin veiled
with white net. The green takes the
form of a succession of panel- and
each of these panels is edged with a
border of crystal beads, while this
narrow border are scattered con
ventional figures that also are a mass
of fine crystal beads. The bodice con
sists of the net with :hiffon, effec
tively draped and shows just enough
of the bead trimming to give a touch
of brilliancy The color effect is really
beautiful and yet one is not dazzled
by the display
There has' been a very great effort
nude this season to give us something
new. something different to silence
the statement that Paris was under a
cloud. While manv of the results arc
attractive and while on? is filled with
admiration for the workers, there is
n great deal that is extreme and that
must be looked at askance. The
trains that are worn with the short
skirts are really grotesque ir. many
instances. Only new and again, once
and awhile, does one make a good
effect, and when that is seen there is
sure to be a connection between the
train and the gown. As a matter of
fact, no very short skirt ever can be
oretty with a train, but there are de
grees of ugliness and some are iess
offensive than others. A Worth cos
tume of black velvet, for example,
is made quite short at the front and
at the sides with the irregular edge
to the skirt that is such a feature,
and is faced with watermelon pink
velvet ribbon showing just a picot
edge below the black. It extends into
a narrow train at the back, but the
rkirt is lengthened gradually—the
train is not hung over a short skirt as
is so often the case. Undoubtedly
there is beauty in the court-train, but
it must be well handled, the queer,
narrow pendage that is hung on irre
spective of the rest of the costume,
MAY MANTON
Hoes not make a good effect, let it be
sponsored by whom it mav.
Happily all the examples of dress
are not extreme and of questionable
beauty, however, for there are many
lovely costumes and many color effects
that are really delightful. A very
lovely younggirls eveninggownis made
of chameleon taffeta in shades of vellow
with iust a hint of pinlc The skirt is
full and gathered at the upper edge,
finished with a wide hem and at
intervals for its entire length are
insets of gold gauze, approximately
one inch in width while this same
pauze makes a top of approximately
three or four inches in depth: the ma
teria' is cut away beneath. At the
left side, there is t little drapery ar
ranwed and this drapery is held by a
single pink rose. The bodice is sur
plice at the back but has a wide girdle
at the front that disappears under the
surplice back, and the soft drapery
above is of silk tulle. The short,
puffed sleeves are of silk and the
whole gown gives the effect of quaint,
girlish charm that is fascinating.
Seen as was among a great many
of the strange ind extreme sort, it
made a picture not soon to be forgot
ten in its very simplicity was found
its charm It is never the fussy or the
over-elaborate costume that lingers
in the memory or holds the eve.
Evening wraps all evidently are
planned with »h<? -onviction that
the winter is to be a cold one: well,
woman is adaptable, she wi'l not admit
that she suffers. At all events, one
and all coats are made with huge col
lars that fairly muffle the throat, and
these collars for the most part are of
lur. Sometimes it is the entire skin,
giving the animal effect, again it is
the neck-muff or huge turned-up
collars that suggests the Arctic cos
tumes and again it may be just a
great big loose collar that drapes the
shoulders and the throat, but it i<
fur or so lavishly trimmed with fur
that it practically means the same
thing._ Everv wonderfully beautiful
material seems to have been called
upon for the making: the lovely
waterfall velvets, as they are called,
are favorites, chiffon velvet and plain
velvet, brocaded silks and moire
silks, all are shown and as a matter
of course, they make a superb effect
with the fur and for the most part,
the wraps show plain linings of match
ing color or of white, for this season,
the gorgeousness is on the outside.
A |ovely one is of waterfall velvet
with a little wider lib than chiffon
and the shimmering effect that always
suggests the dropping of water from
a height. The color is pale blue and
• lie collar and the trimming one the
sleeves consists of black fox fur. It
is really a superb garment, simple in
its lines, dignified in its cut and ex
quisitely beautiful in color and ma
terial —an ideal garment for the opera
or for the dance. The wraps are not
always so simple in cut, however; a
handsome one of pink velvet is long
and plain at the front, but with a
THIS Is one of the prettiest little
frocks (No. 8821) that the season
has to offer, and at the same time,
one o' the simplest and easiest to make.
It is straight at the lower edge and
con.-equently can be cut from flounc
ing. It consists of only one-piece for
the skirt and hody portion, which is
shirred and arranged over a lining that
holds it in place. The sleeves are
sewed to the arm-holes, li a simpler
dress is wanted, the smocking or
shirring may be omitted. The design
may of course be copied in any
i-easonable mareria! the pretty
challis and other light weigh, wools
of the sort as well as in the various
cotton fabrics, but the flouncing
makes 1 charming effect and a v-rv
dainty (rock and with the smallest
pcHsible labor.
For the 4 year size will be needed.
2 1 / i yds of flouncing 26 in. wide, with
•/■i vd. ct plain material 36 in. wide, or
V,-> vds. oi plain material 27 in. 2%
vds. 36. 214 yds. 44..
This is a season of renllv wonderful
loaking materials. The wool velours
illustrated is marvellously beautiful,
there are all sorts of similar effects
and therf- are a great many novelties
tha' show stripes of contrasting ma
terials in self color, while t he fur :loths
are exceptionally attractive This
coat is very simple one to make, yet
it giv°s the newest and smartest lines.
It hangs loose and free, requiring no
fitting in consequence. The patch
pockets are both convenient and
smart. For the school coat, corduroy
would he good or frieze or Scotcn
cheviot or any similar sturdy material
ol the sort and for the more* dressy
coat the wool velours are desirable
and any nne of the handsomer cloak
ings already mentioned Since the
pattern is the improved one, with
basting line and seams, the coat can
be cut and made easily and quickly
with assurance of success
For the 12 year size will be needed,
t yds. of material 36 in. wide. \V>
vds. 44 or 54.
One ot the prettiest possible Irocks
lor the tiny children is shown in No
8839. It Itangs 111 straight lines from
the smooth yoke and is thoroughly
comfortable as well as attractive. In
HINTS for the HOME NEEDLE WOMAN
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HERK IS a design lor embroider
ing a tab's cover thirtv-six
inches m diameter.
The scalloped edge is to be pa Ided
and buttonholed The »rems are to
be outlined and the remainder ol the
design cm be worked either solidly
or j.s evelets.
sort of deep yoke at the back, t>
which the full, shirred portion is
attached that is finished with a two
inch heading. Worn by a very tall,
straight woman, the effect is good,
but the fulness coming just about the
shoulder line is a little dangerous
for the figure not built on the svelte
line 9. The simple coats are to &•.
preferred in every way and are a<
very beautiful. A good model tha.
serves alike for the slender and for
the stout, is made with real raglan
sleeves and a very high co.lar. Today
it was seen in rose pink waterfall
velvet, with a wide collar, deep cuffs
and a wide band down at the lower
edge, all of white fox. It was volumi
nously full, yet the velvet was so soft
and pliable that it clothed the figure
in a most charming way. Another
handsome coat is made of rich bro-.
cade with a band at the lower edge,
with cuffs and with a rolling collar
which in this instance extends quite
to the waist line, all of black lynx.
The coat is plain, almost to the point
of severity, with the drooping shoul
ders and with a few plaits at the front,
where it is drawn together and held
by a fur clasp, an eminently prac
tical coat, one that can be worn both
tor afternoon and for evening, is ot'
dark blue velvet with bands of chin
chi.la squirrel finishing the lower
and 'ront edges, the sleeves an!
making a wide band at the neck.
One of the ioveliest of the chiffon
velvets shown, is turquoise blue, wilii
trimming of beaver and it would bj
difficult to find a more exquisite color
effect. The coat is loose and ample
with the Japanese sleeves that ara
perhaps the be6t of all for evening
use. Beneath each arm the fulness
is laid in plaits and held by a jewelled
ornament of striking design. Tha
band of fur at the lower edge u
approximately ten inches in width.
There is a very wide collar that
envelops both neck and shoulders
and a band down the front edge and
cuffs thnt extend almost if not quits
to the elbows. It is a superb coat,
a graceful coat and it makes a good
example of how simple in cut and
yet really beautiful the best gar
ments are.
i
one_ vlew ; It it made of fine whits
batiste with trimming of embroider y.
In another view, it is shown made ji
plain material and finished with hem
and tucks, and in still a third view,
there is a suggestion for the use ot
flouncing. Added to all these possi
bilities, the dress can be made with
round or high neck, with short or long
sleeves. The pattern is the improved
one with seams and basting line so
that there are no difficulties whatever
to be met and the model will be found
appropriate for every material that
is used for the little children, for the
colored lawns, batistes and the like
as well as for the white fabrics
For the 2 year size will be needed,
yds. of material 36 in. wide, 1%
yds. 44, with yds. of banding and
3 yds. of embroidery to trim as shown
011 the figure; yds. of flouncing 27
in. wide, and Vi yd. of plain materia'
36 in. wide to make as shown in ilia
bat-* • view. ►
Girls always .Mice a dress modeled
after the sailor costume. Thi3 or.e U
exceptionally pretty, taking v er y
graceful and becoming lines and nas
a certain smartness of its own. Ap
propriately, it can be made from many
different materials, but serge and
gabardine are undoubted favorites,
and here, dark blue is trimmed with
ivory white. The combination u
always a pretty and becoming one,
tut of course it is possible to vary the
design in many ways in spite of its
simplicity. The sailor dress is by
no means confined the sailor colors
and the dark or African browns and
the rich greens are favorite colors of
the season. The pattern gives both
the true basting line and seams tha
frock is an easy one to cut out and to
make
For th? 10 year size will be needed,'
4 yds. of material 27 in. wide. 3 yds.
2?g vds 44. with yd. 27 in. wtds
tor belt or trimming.
To pad the scalloos, work chain
stitch between the lines, heavier at
the centers and lighter at the points;
or cut a skein of thread and apply
two or more strands over the center
of the stamped pattern, keeping within
the lines, tack here and there in couch
ing style, Catherine; the threads closely
at each point of rhe scallops. Button
hole closelv over the foundation.
Make dolid embroidery by first darn
ing backward and forward over 'ho
stamped figure and tlvn cover closely
with over and over stitches, working
in the opposite d : rection of the pad
ding. To outline take short stitches,
keep the needle toward the right and*
work upward. To make the dots, anil
leaves as evelets. first run a thread
round tilt stamped figures, then cut a
slight slit lengthwise, ilien crosswi-a
of the l.cm; openings and pierce' the
dots with * stiletto, push back tho
maitrial on the wrong side and work
<dose*y over and «<y*r