THE PTTTSBIIRG DISPATCH, SUifDAT, NOVEMBER 8, 189L HOW TO BOY MEAT, Peopl e Should Enow a Poor Cut of Good Beef Is Better Than a Good Cut of Poor Beef. KAEnH THE DOLLARS EBJH. He Use of Sonp Is recommended Beth From a Health Standpoint -and That of Economy. FEEP1EI5Q CHESTNUTS KB 11BLE. Tittoof Etcelpct Tait TST11 Help tie -Interprtos Bcaseketptr In Her work. Mrs. WEI H. Low, who trill eentribute from time to time receipes for French cook ing for this department, regrets that Ameri cans do not know how to use all that is eat able in an animal. "When one thinks," he writes, "of the waste which must result from the American way of buying meat, it makes one wish to remedy the evil, for I earnestly believe that it is a great disad vantage to poor consumers. "I will explain what I mean. Hare yon ever noticed the butchers' shops where the poorer classes are served? Have you noticed the low prices of the meat, and the quality of it? In France the poorest people ean deal at the same buicuer's shop as the millionaire. The millionaire buys the choice cuts, while the other buy? inferior pieces, but both eai tho sami quality of meat the besi. A l'oor Cut of a Good Beef. "In this country (excepting the Germans, most of the French and Italians) every body wants th best pieces The mason who works for $1 50 a day must have his porter house steak as well as the rich Danker. But the mason cannot afford the price asked fo" the best, the consequence is that he pets poor meat. If he nnderstood that a first-class cut of third quality beef is not as wholesome and nutritious as a lower friced piece of a first-jlass animal, it would e advantageous to iiis health and bis purse to buy a good round steak instead of a poor porter bouss. "I am told by one of the trade that most butchers of tho city of Xew York do not even pretend to keep anything but what are considered the best pieces, of various qualities according to the butcher's pat ronage. As a rule it is next to impossible to find good meat in the country. There are exceptions in few Tillages, near the great cities, for instance where many very rich people live, but then you pay at least one-third more lor it than you would in the city." Sirs. Low also regrets that Americans do sot eat more soup. On this subject she writes tne the dispatch as iollous: Bconoiny Dictates Soaps. Boup is a good, nutritious and digestible food, and most economical This is one of the secrets of French people in the way of economy for the table; e erv family there cats soup at least or.ce a day. Where a large family will need five pounds of meat for dinner, it will be reduced to half the quan. titv if toup is served first. Let us speak first about the French na tional dish pot-an-fcu, beef soup, or bouil lon. To begin, choose a good butcher; this Is tlie first neccssav thins .there are sev eral pieces of beef which make good bouil lon. Here thev are in order of quality and rice: The lower round, which is the most nicy and the least tat. the shoulder, the plate, and the shiu. Although the plate will not make as good bouillon as the round, there is a v'reat deal in its favor. It makes good bouillon and it is the only piece of meat I know that will be juicy still and re tain some flavor after boiling four or five hours. Therefore it is a good dish to serve on the table e.ther warm or cold and it can be made over in many different ways. People in France Eerve any piece of meat they have used to make the bouillon, but I must admit that its quality is doubtful. The Proportions for Bouillon. Buy one pound of meat to each quart of water, and besides have the butcher give you a good juicy bone. Let ns take a pro portion of three pounds of beef, which will give bouillon lor three times, at least, to a small family of three or four persons; two medium-sized carrots, three large leeks, one icedium-sized turnip, 10 or 12 sprigs of par sley, one or fro celery leaver fccrape the carrots, peel the turnip, cut oS the heads ol the leeks and take on" the bad leaves, then cut then crosswise iu the part where the white part joins the green; wash them all In at least two water, opcuing the green leaves to cleanse from earth. When well cleaned set them away on a dish to be used when needed. The meat must be put in a thick iron kettle, tinned or enameled inside, with cold water and about a tablespoonful of salt, no pepper. When the skum begins to rise, watcL carefully, as It must be well skimmed belore it boils it ou do not want a muddy bouillon. Skim about every two minutes (by the way, the fire must not be too hot or the water "wi'l boil too quickly and the tkum would have no chance to rise). When It boils, put in an onion in whic you have stuck four cloves, then make a little bundle ot the gieen leavei of the leeks, the parsley and the celery: tie these together with white thread or twine and put them together with the carrots and turnip. The white part of the leeks is also tied in a bundle and put i only 2 hours before the end of the cooking, as it does not take as long to cook as the cth; vegetables. Kcqulres re Hours 0 er riro. Let simmer for about five hours, and if you want to color your bouillon, put in BDoui a ieaspoomui oi ransian essence. "When doue, strain the bouillon into an earthen veA&el, let it get cold and then set it in a cool place. There is an idea here that bouillon is not good the day it is made on account of its being greasy; in France it is considered the best that day, and unless It is too greasy I think myself "that a little tat improves it Indeed, bouillon without eyes (as wc say in France), is considered poor, and it was an habitue of a third-class restaurant in Paris who said, referring to the pot-an-fcu served there, that "11 faudrait ctre bon maitre d'armes pour liu crever un oeil" (It would be necessary to be a good fencing master to put one of its eyes ut This is the simplest viay French people serve the bouillon, and thus prepared it takes the name ol croute au pot. You have elready browned one or two pieces of bread In the oven, which you break in email nieces in the tureen and on them you pour bouillon, taken with a small dipper directly irom the pot, holding at the same time over the tureen a little strainer in which your bouillon passes, Serve on a plate the car rots, the turnjn and the white of leeks which you will have united, and pass around the table for those who like to eat vegetables with their soup. If the beef is ferved alterward, the vegetable can be left on the table, as they are good eaten with it. One last bit of advice: Do not use the pot in w hich you make your bouillon for anything else. THE CHESTNUT AS A POOD. The Practical Culinary Uses to "Widen Tills Edible .May De Pet. Thomas J. ilurrey, the well-known caterer of New York, sends Thb Dis patch the following letter: "If the struggle for existence has not knocked all the love of nature out of his soul, the small boy, when be arrives at man's estate, cannot pass a chestnut-laden fruit stand without the sieht bringing back those happiest days of his life. On the'eorner of almost every city street, a smoking charcoal chestnut range, presided over by a ragged Italian, may be met with. Soapless hands build the little charcoal fire and handle the so-called roasted fruit. A pocketknife used for cutting tobacco makes the cross incision on the outer skin, and when innocence buys the fruit and wonders how the nuts became impregnated with the flavor of salt mackerel, he never fancies that the Tender has cooked his breakfast in thejlish in which he cooked his wares. Notwithstanding these minor drawbacks, which may be overcome by not patroniz ing street-venders, the American sweet chestnut presents many delightful culinary possibilities which should be better known. They are smaller than the coarse European chestnut, and for this reason are more troublesome to prepare for the table; but they are so superior in quality and flavor that they are much to be preferred. To begin with, either variety of the chestnut, when reduced to flour, mar be conTerted into bread, cakes, puddings, dumpling, ice cream, conserves, puree tor soup, stuffing, and a hundred other tempt ing tonus. Whole, they are made into bon-bons, glaees, etc. Boiled in beef broth they may be 'served as a Tegetable separ ately, or as a garnish to meat, poultry, game, etc. As cold weather approaches, perhaps the American housewife may be more inter ested in knowing how to prepare a chestnut stuffing for poultry, milk pigs, fresh hams, etc., than other more pretentious product. Here is the formula: Boast a pint of chest nuts and peel off the outer and inner skin; weigh them and simmer half a pound of them for 20 minutes in as much Teal gravT as will cover them; drain and let them cool; then pound them in a mortar with four ounces of butter, three ounces of bread crumbs, a trifle of grated lemon peel, and powdered mace, salt and a pinch of cayenne; bind the mixture with the yolki of three eges. When deviled almonds cannot be had for dessert, the chestnut thus prepared is an admirable substitute. Peel the raw chest nuts and scald them to remove the outer skin; put them in a frying pan with a little butter and toss the-t about a few moments; add a sprinkle of salt and a suspension of cayenna. NO NEED OF THE KNIFE. it Is Ifow Almost Banished From the Table The Force of Zlahlt Good Uvlnc and Beauty TJsefal Hints and Beclpes. tWBITTEX TOR THE DISPATCH.! The custom of eating most cooked food at table with the fork has so far progressed that now at formal dinners and party sup pers the knife is frequently dispensed with except for fruit; and this, as the event shows, without for the most part any serious inconvenience. When the caterer or the cook understands his business in this par ticular and has his meats duly prepared in such a manner as to allow of their separa tion into particles small enouzh to admit of their being carried to the mouth, there .is little need for the knife. These observa tions apply only to those occasions which on all sides are taken to be formal, and to those persons who habitually or even occasion ally are expected to conform to strict usage. Of course, no one could be so ungenerous as to infer that the writer would bo s finical as to ad vocate the abandonmtnt of the table knife or to infringe on its well established and useful use. We all admit that a great deal ot lormalit coulu be dispense! with with out loss, and that a great many habits which hav s been acquired by persistence and care are useless, but however much we may thus philosophize none of us has forti tude enough to innovate against the obliga tions of the social rules which bind us. And after all no less an authority than Emerson has said that the most ultra de mands of fashion are founded on common sense. This does seem somewhat obscure, but he logically make.; it quite plain, and this is the more remarkable because hig prejudices such as they were, would cer tainly seem to have been against the cor rectness of such an averment. But this thing of fork-lore is worth considering. Tho .Effects of Habit. Custom and habit work wonderful results. A Chinaman will get away with a bowl of sonp by the use of his chopsticks with greater rapidity than a European will with a spoon. Sir Edwin Arnold, the poet, lately a resident of Japan, is reported as having avowed that when the art of using chopsticks has been acquired they are preterable to our own method, we may not be surprised to learn from his indorse ment that their common use may become what is called in the jargon of fashion a "fad." Dr. Holbrook, editor of the Herald of Health, advises the formation of "Eat-Your-Food-Slow-Societies," each member to be fined when caught eating rapidly. He thinks such societies are much needed, and that they might be formed at every table. They would serve to call attention to the subject, and, finally, to aid in forming cor rect habits of eating. We are all familiar with the statement he .makes in regard to Mr. Gladstone, who is so impressed with the importance of perfect mastication that he makes a practice himself and has taught his family to do the same of chewing thor ouehly every mouthful of food taken. 31r. Gladstone has dwelt so on the import ance of this rule that it has become notori ous; and we see at recurrent interalsthe announcement of this personal character istic made in various ways sometimes that he takes 16 and sometimes that he takes 32 distinct chews to each several bite. But it is conceded that the splendid health of this distinguished gentleman at such an advanced age is largely owing to his extreme care in eating. Brillat-Savarin, "the high priest of gas tronomy,' the cotemporary of Talley rand, another worthy gastronome, savs: "The love of good living is in some sort in stinctive in women, because it is favorable to beauty." Good Living and Beauty. It has been proved, by a series of rigor ously exact observations, that by a succu lent, delicate and choice regimen, the ex ternal appearances of age are kept away for a long time. It gives more brilliancy to the eye, more freshness to the skin, more support to the muscles; and, as it is certain in physiology that wrinkles, thoso formidable enemiei of beauty, are caused by the depression of muscle, it is equally true that, other things being equal, those who understand eating are comparatively four years younger than those ignorant of that "science. Painters and sculptors are deeply penetrated with thistruth, for in representing those w ho practice abstinence by choice or duty, such as misers or anchor ites, they always give them the pallor of disease, the leanness of misery, and the wrinkles ot decrepitude. The subject of cookery has received a large share of attention in all ages of which memorials have been retained. Dr. John son thought the matter of writing a cook book was far above the capacity of the ordinary woman; and Boswell, with his ac customed modesty, says the doctor seriously entertained the notion of writing one him self. Buskin, the greatest art critic of modern times, and who ranks rightly as one of the masters of the English language, in his work called 'Praeterita," stops in his ac count ot Italian sculpturings and frescoes to note a remembrance of his father's house and kitchen and cook. "I have never"' says he, "seen a fillet of veal rightly roasted, nor a Yorkshire pudding rightly basted, since Mary Stone lelt us to be mar ried in 1S3G." Egg Tea. When tired and exhausted break afresh egg into a enp of tea not too strong. Beat well and mix with a glass of hot sweet milk. Chestnuts Iced. 6elect flno chestnuts, remove the first skin, boil them iu water, and when tender, re move the second skin and dry thum in a cloth; boil a pound of white sujrar, with a little water to prevent it from Burning, and make a clear syrup with it; this done put in the chestnuts one by one, turning them with a fork to get well iced. Tho syrup must bo very hot. When the chestnuts are ready take them out and stick them on a knitting needle for them to dry. For 12 chestnuts use a pound or sugar. Klmce Sebexa. THE TABLE, THE BOUDOIR, HOME GOWNS FOR THE WINTER. The Edict Ha Gone "Forth ond "Woman kind Will Be Pleased With It Bough Cheviots and Tweeds An Ideal Street Gown A Turkish-looking Fabric Cut ting a Bodice. rWEIITIX rOB TH DISrATCH.- HE settled winter styles begin at length to appear out of the demi-season's uncer tainties. "We can now speak with ab solute certainty of materials and cat of garments to be worn all the season with the knowledge that they will remain in tyle. By all odds, the most beautiful dress fabrics of the season ere those prepared for the street. It fairly makes one happy to see the rough cheviots and tweeds of North Britain clothed with dyes that approach the splen dor of Cashmere. The vigor of Scotland appears in them, mingled with the fire of the south. These textures, so thick and warm and at the same time soft and cling ing, are the perfection of winter fabrics. Their colors are rich, yet low toned and harmonious; an artist's brush seems to have laid them on. The salesmen call them "mixed effects." Very Pleasing Color Effects. They have, for the most part, grounds in stripes, or broken spaces, of natural brown and gray, which being of the same tone, that is to say, without contrast of light and dark, make artistic backgrounds for narrow lines of pure color, and flaky dots of many cues, wnicli all combmo into an agreeable color composition. The way these grounds are keyed in hue to orange, or to red, or to whatever colors ars. spread over them, 60 that instead of being crude they are glow ing, makes one take heart to believe that we moderns are not, after all, quite color blind. If any fault is to be found with these ma terials it is that there are too many eccentrio figures, zigzags and lightning effects, but the variety is great and tnese can be avoided. The winter eheviots and camel's hair are in simple colors mixed with white in the weaving, and are -slain or in broken figures of self color. These white mixtures are more becoming than dark solid colors. They run through shades enough, from greenish gray to red, to satisfy the most ex acting complexion. The prices for the 40-inch width, run from bl CO up to 52 SO and 3 00. A very good one mav be had for the first price, and though the more ex pensive ones will be richer, it is well enough for persons with sm-ill pocketbooks to remember that additional expense in quality will not give one iota more style. Gown for Firth Avenue. For an ideal street gown take of loosely woven cheviot, or camel's hair, seven vards of velvet, a yard and quarter, of lining silk' three yards; of taffeta silk, for underskirt, eight yards. Choose a dressmaker whose specialty is fitting, or else choose a tailor, lor the style of this gown depends en irely on its cut. Let her make for the bodice a jacket reaching nearly half way to the knees, fitted in front without darts by means of the nnder-arm seam, falling open Hot for a CameVt Hair Suit. down the front, with rounded corners, like a man's cutaway coat It may have revers, and one button and button-hole, though there is more-beauty when the outline falls in a straight line from the neck. The shoulders and nnder-arm seams are sewed over onto the back in the welt. Line the jacket with silk of the same color, and in terline for winter. Put one row of stitching ronnd the edge of the jacket. Make the sleeves loose at the shoul ders where they join the coat. In cutting them see that the cloth of both upper and under sides runs straight at the hand and bias at the top. This is an important point which even reputable dressmakers often overlook. On the texture being diagonal depends the beauty of the full, gathered top, which top continues to be made. Do not exaggerate the fullness or you will vul garize the garment Finish the wrist with a blind hem. A Fifth avenue model has the wrist lapped over and furnished with three buttons. Important About the Test. The velvet vest is slightly pointed, and extends five inches below the waist It is fitted with darts and a seam down the mid dle of the front, and opens along the line of the first left dart All these seams are turned open underneath, and there is a row of stitching close to each side of the seam, which' gives Hhe vest a look of having been w ft ml i Y Mm f&i The Ideal Street Gown. tf5''sQ,) molded onto the figure. It is fastened with mall, flat, smoked pearl buttons. This vest is a separate garment, the front being placed on a lining, as is a man's vest. A chamois underwaist may be added for winter. Fit the skirt as carefully as the waist. The front breadth has the seams lapped over In-Red Splashed With Oranae. and stitched down on the outside, as are the side seams of the jacket It is closed in the front side seam, with three buttons and but tonholes, which are hidden by the jacket Hem it at bottom with a blind stitch. This gown is entirely without trimming, and its plainness is the great feature of its style. If you add to the gown a coque's feather boa and a rimless turban of felt, having a roll of velvet about its edge, knot ted in front, and some loops, or wings be hind, yon will have a costume which for style will not be exceeded through the whole winter. The skirt must be deml-train, with a very full back. The underskirt, however, clears the ground. It is separate from the outside skirt, except at the belt, and this is to be noted, as it is the sign of the radical change in the character of skirts. Many dressmakers use taffeta silk for the under skirt, and, ruffling it, make it serve for a petticoat In Orange and Old Blue. Camel's hairs are In the same mixed effects of the cheviots, though some of them have more color In the grounds. A notably rich one of red splashed with orange, In rich low tones, is coverei with markings of old blue. This Turkish look ing fabric has been made into a very chic and Frenchy gown as followt: The Bkirt Is slashed to the waist and falls apart slightly to disclose an underbreadth of old blue silk. The waist is round and falls apart in front, like a slash, to dispose a crimped chemis ette of old bine silk. It meets at the throat and has a high rolling collar, lined with the silk. The sleeves are Bishop, straight and full and gathered loosely an Inch and a half from the wrist, and push back at will over a close sleeve of the old blue silk. The waist is finished with a leather belt colored old bine, and having a buckle of colored enamels set in Bilver. The shirt and front of the waist are bordered with a two-inch width of old blue velvet edged with a narrow galoon of irridescent beads. Asa Bache Cokh WHY YOTO BODICE SITS AWBY. A Thing That Seems to Be a Mystery to Host Women Is Here Explained.' nrnnxEjf roa the dispatch. AIT) one woman to another, anent her new gown: "It must be bewitched. I cut and fitted it myself by a pattern that is just perfect, and see, the back seem crawls toward the left hip, and the side-forms are apparently trying to climb to my arm-pits. I assure "you I am quite desperate over such manifestations of textile total de pravity. From the looks anybody would say I cut the thing out on Frdav." 'You did worse," said the other, eyeing the garment critically; "you cut each piece so the threads run the wrong way. Let me tell you a secret I learned from a London modiste. In cutting out a bodice always shape each part so that tne woot tnreaus win go as TTle Way to Out Jl. straight around your waist as the belt tape does. That puts the warp perpendicular and gives almost a perfect bias on the seams in the back. Look at your back forms You cut them, did you not", out of any piece that was big enough? In each the threads run differently, and all ways but the right one. "Then in fitting you gave no thought to symmetry or proportion. Like these dress makers, in fine, you took in your seams in any way that promised to make a smooth, tight fit By consequence, your back forms are hardly an inch wide in the armhole. In a well cut bodice they are as wide there as at the waist line. The swell of bust and shoul ders is accommodated by the back and front figuies. "When stuffis cut on the cross yon should be as careful to havo a true bias around the waist, and up the fronts and the back seams. Another thing, if you want your gown to sit smooth over the shoulder, before basting it up stretch each front piece as much as as you can half way from the neck to the arm-hole, and hold the back full to it for the same distance. Never mind the ap parent pucker. Pressing will banish it and The Way Not to Cut le, give you an easy seam that will hug the curve of the shoulder almost as a man's coat does." No use to deny the fact that Salvation Oil is fast taking the place ot all other link menta, 0 ATIONS TRAINING A BEAUTY. The Toung Girl Should Go Through Begu lr Military Set-Dps Dancing Is an In stinct Men Should Be Easily Beaten at the Game of Football by Women "Crning to Kick. tWBITTES FOB THI DISr ATCH. 1 Awkward beauty wakens the pity of gods and men. The latter have been known to desert stolid perfection of color and features for grace with lesser personal attraction. Grace comes of two things proportions of limb and good nervous controL Both sym metry and control are gained by training. The defects of stature and of limb are overcome by exercise with greater ease than by mechanical appliances in in-st cases. Yon may take a bow-legged lad and oblige him to wear steel braces which cripple him a year or two in remedying the deform ity, or you may put him ..under strict drill, which will turn him out in the same time straight as a model. In one case the steel force coerces the limb, in the other nerve force does it High shoulders, irregular hips, rounded spine and awk ward figure are better cured by the military drill than by any braces or apparatus what ever. You will find the proof of this among the "West Point cadets, who are straight, clean limbed and well proportioned almost without exception. fc They are not chosen for physical perfection, and only the drill master knows what unpromising material he works up into the carriage "becoming an officer and a gentleman." A Drlllmaster for Girls. What is true of boys is jnst as true of girls. The drillmaster, a soldier of experi ence, was and is attached to every high class finishing school for English girls. Fanny Kemble tells us her French dancing lessons failed to give her a good carriage or teach her to hold herself upright She stooped, slouched and poked, one hip np and one shoulder down, which greatly afflicted her parents. Among other devices for improvement she was made to wear "a hideous engine of torture of the back-board species, of ftcel covered with red morocco," strapped around her waist and shoulders, a steel rod at the top supporting a steel collar to hold her chin up. The ease and grace with which this horri ble machine was to impart was hardly per ceptible after considerable endurance of it, and she was place-1 under the training of a sergeant of the Boyal Foot Guards, who taught young ladies to walk and carry them selves well. "Thanks to his instructions," she says, "I remained endowed with a flat back, well placed shoulders, erect head, upright carriage and resolute step, the drill being that daily given the awkward'squads of the British forces. Of all women of our century Mrs. Kemble best illustrated the balanced high mental and physical gifts. No one else leaves the impression ol in tense, abounding vitality like hers, which showed itself in her passion for activity of all kinds. She could not exist without long daily horseback rides or walks. She must be hours in the open air, and cared equally for dancing as the sheer poetry of move ment She could repeat from memory whole dances after Ellsler. Dancing Is an Inttlncti Many another staid woman of middle age can svmpathize in this outbreak of physical delight, for the passion of dancing is instinct it healthy blood and is warm in Puritan vien pity that ashes are laid upon its fires! There is more in the exercise of dancing to mnsio than mere amusement, or rather it is a favorite amusement because it so combines the stimulus of mnsio and its nervous influence with lively and gentle movement, which stirs every fibre of the bodv. It is worth something for a woman bred to restrained and conventional gestures to hold her arms up and out, as she is obliged to in round dances, and move in time to quick music, setting her blood flow ing through her veins, and, so to speak, srating her poor little brains. The ideal of the woman who has taught herself to walk is a figure erect as a dart, carried without any perceptible motion in the straightest line between two points. Her shoulders, her hips are carried still and as little play allowed any limb as suffices to get over the ground. It is more pleasing than the walk which kicks up the skirts behind or strides with a fencing step, bending the knee prominently at each for ward move, but it is neither natural nor graceful. To walk well, one must first stand well. Perhaps as good practice as any for this is to balance a large tea tray loaded with several wooden things which will not break as they fall, and play image boy for 15 minutes at a time. It would be well if the contents were plaster and dinner de pending on their safety, for a steady carri age would sooner be the result The two hands may be used at first to steady the tray, as the pose gives freedom to the arms, but the balance must come from the neck, which can be trained to look around and turn with a load on the head as surely as a good rider keeps her Beat Carrying burdens on the head gives a noble-development of the bust. The shoulders, elbows and hips full into place and learn to stay there. Playing Outdoor Games to Win, The next point to gain is freedom of limb and movement If our girls played quoits like tne Greek girls of old, as youths play, to win, not to be looked at, there would 6e no need of teaching what the baby learns as he leaves his cradle. I have had the privi lege the past season of overlooking the games of a lawn tennis club on grounds ad joining, and I am constrained to admit that the boys playing alone were much more in teresting and graceful in their postures than the girls, who alwavs seemed to feel that they were being looked at rather than the game. They seemed afraid of stretching an arm or taking a step too wide for conventional proprieties, to move too fast or stoop for a ball, if any one could be cajoled into pick ing it up lor them. The exception was a lassie with bright coloring and fresh vitality, who ran after balls and threw them with all her might, flung herself after them and sprang to catch them on her racket v, ith the same unconsciousness and real beauty of motion you will see in a true antique. The Greek athlete or the maiden were not think ing whether they were playing in good form or not They threw to hit the mark with least waste of effort, and, so moving, so in stinct, were supremely graceful; and models for all time. They are the least conscious of figures, and a girl of to-day would be horrified at the idea of throwing her arms out to their full length or springing in yard wide steps in her game on the lawn like her Greek forerunner in marble. Her move ments are in a circle bounded by the diameter of her hips. A Girl Kicking a Football. She can't throw a ball forsooth, because her should.rs are not as square as those of her brother. She cannot kick a football, though I should like to know why she should not excel in kicking, as her hips are much wider and stronger in proportion than a man's. It may not seem essential that she should be a kicker; but the fact is she cannot be thoroughly graceful Without learning to kick. She needs that strength, that pro ulsion from hips and knee which forwards the ball, to lend buoyancy to her walk and her dancing. One last word. Kicking is the exercise ol all others which gives strength and mobility to the organs on whose good condition all her health and hap piness depends through life. It is abject cruelty to turn a girl from easy, petted maidenhood to housekeeping and cares of a lamily. 6he "may learn the routine very quickly, but she cannot teach her muscles to do easily and without strain what they have not teen used to do from childhood. If I had a girl to brine up she should pass most "of her year in the coun try, where she should be taught to throw herself over a fence with as neat disposal ot drapery and easy grace as a good rider takes it on horseback. She should run up hill and down by degrees till aha could be reasonw,, vwJ, N N of ability to run for a train without danger of dropping dead with heart complaint Women cannot take as much exercise as cirls unless they have been accustomed to it. One can sit on a chair and sway the trunk forward and back or sideways, and get shoulder exercise in plenty without tir ing the weaker muscles of the hips by standing through it all. You will get mucn better exercise and development by throw ing a quoit or a nine-ball than bv the idle see-sawing of calisthenic or Sweetish train ing. Shielex Dare. DECORATING THE HOME. 'Common Sense Should Preside at Every In ventionThe Fancy Worker Mast Re member That Simplicity and Truth Are Necessary In Art Some Incongruous Conceptions Hints for the Beautiful. rWBlTTEN FOB THI niSPATCH.l ATAN holds out no more alluring bait for the idle hand of woman than house decoration. Whether your abode be between four walls or beneath canvas, It should be made beautiful. "Why make it ugly? There was once a little lady who had taken lessons in paint- mg. She bedizzened her drawing room with cross-eyed cats on plates and groups of daisies, symmetrical as toothpicks. It occurred to her that a snow scene would best dis play her talent Her idea evolved thus: Snow snow shovel snow scene painted on snow shovel. Two days later her visitors beheld beside the fireplace the decorated implement a white satin bow streaming from the handle, and a landscape glittering with diamond dust and white enamel de picted on its blade. This same apostle of the. beautiful sent her physician a boot jack, painted yellow. TJp "for'ard," as the sailors say, were the inevitable sunflowers, and where his foot should have fitted, a large satin bow. This fantasy moved the doctor, whose recording angel until now had closed his book, for lack of occupation, to exclaim "Decorative Hades!" Is it for decorative purposes that your rooms are filled with antagonistic lamps or overloaded with china, whose instability freezes ones blood with dread of a catastro phe? Why aro those treacherous rugs for ever sliding over pousneu floors and lying in wait for man? Even if the wicked stand in slippery places, why not spare the one righteous? A great oculist h3S said: "Modern houses and their insane draperies are responsible for modern eyes. People live like moles and wonder that they see no better than a mole." Is it on aesthetic grounds that yen shut sunlight from your dwellings with in finite pains and h'ideous materials? The variegated shoestrings that dangle in door ways, catching one's bonnet and scratching the polish off one's nose, are at least free from this defect Don't imagine that you add to the loveli ness of life by pinning up defunct birds and other mortuary emblems indoors. Sooner or later the fate befalls them, described by ayoung woman to her friend, as follows: "Yon know that white dove we had fas tened to the parlor curtains? I cleaned house the other day and took it down. It was so dirty I couldn't stand it First. I dusted it and then I washed it, but it wasn't fit to be seen, so I took it out to "Woodlawn and laid it on mother's grave!" One word in conclusion. If yon wish to beautify your home think of the effect you seek. Ask yourself: "Why do I put this color here? What reason is there for the shape of that chair?" If you can't give a reason for the faith that is in you, change the faith. Study the laws of harmony and proportion. Don't attempt contrasts, which are difficult to practiced artists. Cultivate common sense. Art is the most sensible thing in this world. Simplicity and truth aro its exponents and reason is its hand maiden. Mabt Elizabeth Bucxxabb. THE PAPEE ON THE WAXU. Some Suggestions as to Harmony With Carpets and Woodwork. rWBITTElf TOK THI DISPATCH.! O THE average house 'ceeper one of the most distressing ac companiment s of house or flat moving is the matter of wall decoration. If your carpets are figured use plain cartridge paper on the walls; if on the other hand the carpet Is of a solid color with rugs scantily used, the paper must have a small vine or a sim ple diaper pattern. With the walls papered with copper-pink in any desired tint, paint the woodwork in the next darker shade. Then around the wal's,about34J inches from the floor put a narrow wooden molding painted the same color as the woodwork, also one at the top of the paper just under the cornice to hang pictures on. Tbe ceil ing can be calcimined in white with the least bit of pink mixed with the white wash. A verv simple pattern in stencil, such a one as Is here suggested, about the edges, is charming and gives a most refined air to the room. The little guest chamber shall have a white dado with light China-blue cartridge paper above, or blue and white paper n a small pattern, if preferred. The dining room is best in cream color, both in walls and ceiling, particularly if it is not well lighted. Paper the walls in the bed room with a warm ochre. Paint the wood work with a neutral tint of brown that will harmonize but not match; treat the walls iu the same way, as to molding and picture rail, as the sitting room. The walls of the kitchen and bath room need only painting. Either chrome-yellow or light olive is good for the kitchen as neither shows smoke. Dora Wheelee. A SIMPLE OBA6S MAT SEAT. How to Make a Parlor Ornament That Will Please Eye and Best Body. rwntTTEX FOB THE DISFATCH.J To make this pretty seat, get a butter or lard tub and, after cleaning and Band papering, cover the side with lined surah or silesia, gathering or tacking the full ness on the upper and lower edges. Cover the fastening with fine hemp rope in- a sort ' of chain-stitch. The tassels are made of bits of rope rather more than twice the length of tne distance from the top oi the seat to the floor. Untwist the bit and pass it through the upper chain, fasten each by o sailor knot, -or 'a "half- The Seat Complete. hitch" m they call it and tack it is place. The top Is covered by a grass" mat fastened on with with double tacks or matting tacks. HATIXT 19 TABU COVM. A Dream of Zavellness for a Young: GtrTs Boom and Other Designs. rWBITTXK TOE TUX DISFATCB.1 COVEB whlci Is specially well suited to a young girl's room is made of baby-blue linen. The hem, which is turned up on the right 'side and is fin ished with a couch ing of heavy white linen floss. Above the hem the design is first drawn or stamped, and is then couched on all its outlines with floss, like that which finishes the hem. The cloth is sweet and pure in tone and of eminently serviceable material, For a Yonng GirVs Room. and its very simplicity recommends it to the highest taste. It 'is well suited to any room of dainty coloring, but, as its tin's are peculiarly suggestive ot youth, it belongs, by natural selection, to the room of a maiden fair. A second cover, at once elegant and easy of execution, is made of saiin brocade. That is, of brocade of satin figures in the background of silk of the same color. Each figure is outlined with fine goldthread, and here and there an oc- In Brocade ggft. casional one is darned, fish-scaled or filled with some other fancy stitch worked In gold. The edge is finished with a band of velvet, one shade darker than the silk, and the whole is lined with ordinary cotton flannel. The effect of tiny line of gold is to give great brilliancy to the cover, and, as the work is simplicity itself, it can safely be undertaken by the -least expert of needle women. A SHADE OF PALKLEAP PAH. Pretty Designs for the Ball lamp or tho Big One at the Piano. rWHITTKr FOB THE DISPATCH.! A soft lined lamp shade is made of four small palm-leaf fans. Cut off the handles and tie them together In shape slightly overlapping each other with A Simple Shade. narrow satin ribbon or gold tinsel cord. Hang a few bangles or small shells on the lower edges. Gilding in very small quan tity looks pretty, but soon becomes tar nished. A SAIAD MADE OP APPLES, The Achievement of a Staten Island Woman In the Way or Novelty. Something new for the table is contributed by Hattie Wilton. She got it from a Staten Island woman, as she says below: A few days ago a clever woman gave agoodby luncheon at her country home in Staten Island before she closed it for her return to the city. Now, this woman has never quite invented a new animal or a new fruit, but she has invented new methods of using these things which as nearly approach orig inal creation as even that clever woman will ever come. The last achievement was offered at her good-bv luncheon. It was an apple salad, and this is how she made it: She used for the basis solid tart apples, pared and cut into small bits. With this she mixed an equal quantity of celery, cut in bits of the same size. After thoroughly mixing, she dressed them in the salad bowl with a simple mayonnaise made as follows: Into the yolk of one egg previously beaten, a sufficient quantity of salad oil was slowly dropped to make a thick cream, which was then thinned to the proper consistency by vinegar, added as carefully. Add .pepper and salt to taste,- and the mayonnaise was ready to dress the salad. ' "i J "da" "" Ic- Well Understood. It is well understood by reliable dealers that Dr. Price's Delicious Flavoring Extracts have constituted for years past the standard flavors in all the markets of this country. That they are regarded as among the most successful and creditable products and are -unquestionably, if the opinion of the best class of con sumers is worthy of acceptance, the purest strongest, and finest flavoring extracts in the world. - -. -i GELS WHO SUCCEED. A Newspaper Woman Who Has Woa Fame Gives Some Advice. LEAVING THE PATERNAL EOOF. A "DiffennM Eetween Wounded FeeHnj and Wounded Vanity. ESPEISSIUQ TASTES ASD OPOTjWB IWmn.1 FOB THE Dtsr-ATCH.1 Most earnest girls nowadays come Into maturity with a real longing for work. There are reposeful, middle-aged people, to be sure, who firmly believe, that this Is a mischievous and misplaced activity, and that it is going to work out all kinds of de struction if tho race of women take to other things than domestic and polite accomplish, ments. Be that as it will; it doesn't pay to argue about what we shallnever live to prove. Here you are, hundreds of you, girls who honestly want to work and who are honestly averse to housework. It also happens to bi true that women, like men, work for wages, and that the wages a girl gets for house work, even in her father's house, are not such as encourage you to adopt housework as a profession. And so it happens that you are thinking to-day about a wage-earning business outside your home, more than you are thinking about a husband. The first thing you've got to know Is what you can do best To find that out, consult your taste. If you think It would be beau tiful to trim hats or make gowns, say so and stick to it Then go to the best milliner or dressmaker in your town and ask her to let you come into her shop and learn. She won't pay yon at first, but your father has fed you for several years, and can probably discharge that paternal duty for a few months longer. Disdaining 3Iodest Beginnings. If you are bookish and the law or medi cine attracts yon, go to the office of your father's lawyer or physician and borrow his simplest book and study it In any case don't disdain the modest beginning that lies nearest your hand; you are not ready for wider fields yet. And when you've settled upon a work, don't play with it; learn to treat it just as seriously as your big brother or your father treats his. And so as your diligence and knowledge grow together you will perhaps come to a point where you must leave your father' roof in order to finish your preparation for work or to widen your competence and so increase your wages. You must leave your small town for a city or the small city for a larger one. Before this can be considered for a moment one of two things is impera tive: either you must have the certainty not the mere possibility of something to work at that will give you a modest living, or else you must have money enough in re serve to pay your way for a year ahead. There Is no compromising with this, icver leave your father's home on any other con ditions. Doesn't Hurt to Get Discouraged. "With this provision made, go Into your work with the whole of you. Take care of your health, and, for the rest, give your mind and body to your duties. You will get discouraged in every fiber of your tired body, but it will only do you good. The man or woman who doesn't get discouraged often and often, seeing his ultimate reach beyond his daily grasp, doesn't see far enough ahead ever to succeed. So be sure that you will get discouraged, and getting discouraged, encourage yourself because of that very thing. You will probably be thrown much among men. Learn not to expect jiarlor etiquette in business places. You are not there to in. terpiet the amenities of life to a lot of busy men, but to do your work competently and go your way sensibly. They may be as Kindly intentioned as your own brothers, but theyaretoo busy to assure you of their distinguished consideration. If they treat you brusquely, directly and frankly, they're paying you the compliment ot treating you like a sensible woman. You will have to keep your tastes, opinions and purposes thoroughly to your self. One young woman in newswaper work In New York had what she called "conscientious scruples" against certain kind3 of newspaper necessities and she wanted to argue them out with every editor she talked to. She failed iu her work and it served her right; not because she had "conscientious scruples," but because she aired them where she had no business to. Don't Look for the Disagreeable. Neither have vonr tastes any more pis in your work. You will have to learn to do what you are told to do, and reflect that if you find the task insuperably objectionable, you have the largest liberty to give some one else the. opportunity of trying it Above all, don't always be looking for things to hurt your feelings. They'll come some times, 'and bruise you in every fiber till you'll want to put your head down in your mother a lap and cry like a little girl. But you must learn to distinguish between wounded feelings and wounded vanity. A woman cries nine times out oi wounded, vanity and once out of the wounded soul that calls for divinest soothing to heaL Let your vanity smart all it will; it's good for most of us, for vanity is a kind of "proud flesh" of the soul that has to be treated with caustic to keep it from becoming an excrescence that will disfigure. Another thing you will have to learn Is to keep vour word; to go where you'll iT you ll go, and come when you say you'll come, and let the heavens drop if they will. But they won't except in blessing on your head. Last of all you may be the daughter of rich parents and you may not If you are the former, behave yourself as If you were the latter. Don't preface your first request for work with the information that yon are foing to work because you have to; it's bad usiness policy and worse taste, and none of your employer's business any way. These are the few things you will have to learn. The way is long and wearisome often, but it is as smooth for you to-day as it is fox men. Helex Wattebsost. '3 v i 4 i
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers