THE PTTTSBIIRG DISPATCH, SUifDAT, NOVEMBER 8, 189L
HOW TO BOY MEAT,
Peopl
e Should Enow a Poor Cut of
Good Beef Is Better Than a
Good Cut of Poor Beef.
KAEnH THE DOLLARS EBJH.
He Use of Sonp Is recommended Beth
From a Health Standpoint -and
That of Economy.
FEEP1EI5Q CHESTNUTS KB 11BLE.
Tittoof Etcelpct Tait TST11 Help tie -Interprtos
Bcaseketptr In Her work.
Mrs. WEI H. Low, who trill eentribute
from time to time receipes for French cook
ing for this department, regrets that Ameri
cans do not know how to use all that is eat
able in an animal. "When one thinks,"
he writes, "of the waste which must result
from the American way of buying meat, it
makes one wish to remedy the evil, for I
earnestly believe that it is a great disad
vantage to poor consumers.
"I will explain what I mean. Hare yon
ever noticed the butchers' shops where the
poorer classes are served? Have you
noticed the low prices of the meat, and the
quality of it? In France the poorest people
ean deal at the same buicuer's shop as the
millionaire. The millionaire buys the
choice cuts, while the other buy? inferior
pieces, but both eai tho sami quality of
meat the besi.
A l'oor Cut of a Good Beef.
"In this country (excepting the Germans,
most of the French and Italians) every
body wants th best pieces The mason
who works for $1 50 a day must have his
porter house steak as well as the rich
Danker. But the mason cannot afford the
price asked fo" the best, the consequence is
that he pets poor meat. If he nnderstood
that a first-class cut of third quality beef is
not as wholesome and nutritious as a lower
friced piece of a first-jlass animal, it would
e advantageous to iiis health and bis purse
to buy a good round steak instead of a poor
porter bouss.
"I am told by one of the trade that most
butchers of tho city of Xew York do not
even pretend to keep anything but what
are considered the best pieces, of various
qualities according to the butcher's pat
ronage. As a rule it is next to impossible
to find good meat in the country. There
are exceptions in few Tillages, near the
great cities, for instance where many very
rich people live, but then you pay at least
one-third more lor it than you would in the
city."
Sirs. Low also regrets that Americans do
sot eat more soup. On this subject she
writes tne the dispatch as iollous:
Bconoiny Dictates Soaps.
Boup is a good, nutritious and digestible
food, and most economical This is one of
the secrets of French people in the way of
economy for the table; e erv family there
cats soup at least or.ce a day. Where a large
family will need five pounds of meat for
dinner, it will be reduced to half the quan.
titv if toup is served first.
Let us speak first about the French na
tional dish pot-an-fcu, beef soup, or bouil
lon. To begin, choose a good butcher; this
Is tlie first neccssav thins .there are sev
eral pieces of beef which make good bouil
lon. Here thev are in order of quality and
rice: The lower round, which is the most
nicy and the least tat. the shoulder, the
plate, and the shiu. Although the plate
will not make as good bouillon as the round,
there is a v'reat deal in its favor. It makes
good bouillon and it is the only piece of
meat I know that will be juicy still and re
tain some flavor after boiling four or five
hours. Therefore it is a good dish to serve
on the table e.ther warm or cold and it can
be made over in many different ways.
People in France Eerve any piece of meat
they have used to make the bouillon, but I
must admit that its quality is doubtful.
The Proportions for Bouillon.
Buy one pound of meat to each quart of
water, and besides have the butcher give
you a good juicy bone. Let ns take a pro
portion of three pounds of beef, which will
give bouillon lor three times, at least, to a
small family of three or four persons; two
medium-sized carrots, three large leeks, one
icedium-sized turnip, 10 or 12 sprigs of par
sley, one or fro celery leaver fccrape the
carrots, peel the turnip, cut oS the heads ol
the leeks and take on" the bad leaves, then
cut then crosswise iu the part where the
white part joins the green; wash them all
In at least two water, opcuing the green
leaves to cleanse from earth. When well
cleaned set them away on a dish to be used
when needed.
The meat must be put in a thick iron
kettle, tinned or enameled inside, with cold
water and about a tablespoonful of salt, no
pepper. When the skum begins to rise,
watcL carefully, as It must be well skimmed
belore it boils it ou do not want a muddy
bouillon. Skim about every two minutes
(by the way, the fire must not be too hot or
the water "wi'l boil too quickly and the
tkum would have no chance to rise). When
It boils, put in an onion in whic you have
stuck four cloves, then make a little bundle
ot the gieen leavei of the leeks, the parsley
and the celery: tie these together with
white thread or twine and put them
together with the carrots and turnip. The
white part of the leeks is also tied in a
bundle and put i only 2 hours before the
end of the cooking, as it does not take as
long to cook as the cth; vegetables.
Kcqulres re Hours 0 er riro.
Let simmer for about five hours, and if
you want to color your bouillon, put in
BDoui a ieaspoomui oi ransian essence.
"When doue, strain the bouillon into an
earthen veA&el, let it get cold and then set
it in a cool place. There is an idea here
that bouillon is not good the day it is made
on account of its being greasy; in France
it is considered the best that day, and unless
It is too greasy I think myself "that a little
tat improves it Indeed, bouillon without
eyes (as wc say in France), is considered
poor, and it was an habitue of a third-class
restaurant in Paris who said, referring to
the pot-an-fcu served there, that "11
faudrait ctre bon maitre d'armes pour liu
crever un oeil" (It would be necessary to
be a good fencing master to put one of its
eyes ut
This is the simplest viay French people
serve the bouillon, and thus prepared it
takes the name ol croute au pot. You have
elready browned one or two pieces of bread
In the oven, which you break in email
nieces in the tureen and on them you pour
bouillon, taken with a small dipper directly
irom the pot, holding at the same time over
the tureen a little strainer in which your
bouillon passes, Serve on a plate the car
rots, the turnjn and the white of leeks
which you will have united, and pass
around the table for those who like to eat
vegetables with their soup. If the beef is
ferved alterward, the vegetable can be left
on the table, as they are good eaten with it.
One last bit of advice: Do not use the
pot in w hich you make your bouillon for
anything else.
THE CHESTNUT AS A POOD.
The Practical Culinary Uses to
"Widen
Tills Edible .May De Pet.
Thomas J. ilurrey, the well-known
caterer of New York, sends Thb Dis
patch the following letter:
"If the struggle for existence has not
knocked all the love of nature out of his
soul, the small boy, when be arrives at
man's estate, cannot pass a chestnut-laden
fruit stand without the sieht bringing back
those happiest days of his life. On the'eorner
of almost every city street, a smoking
charcoal chestnut range, presided over
by a ragged Italian, may be met with.
Soapless hands build the little charcoal fire
and handle the so-called roasted fruit. A
pocketknife used for cutting tobacco makes
the cross incision on the outer skin, and
when innocence buys the fruit and wonders
how the nuts became impregnated with the
flavor of salt mackerel, he never fancies
that the Tender has cooked his breakfast in
thejlish in which he cooked his wares.
Notwithstanding these minor drawbacks,
which may be overcome by not patroniz
ing street-venders, the American sweet
chestnut presents many delightful culinary
possibilities which should be better known.
They are smaller than the coarse European
chestnut, and for this reason are more
troublesome to prepare for the table; but
they are so superior in quality and flavor
that they are much to be preferred.
To begin with, either variety of the
chestnut, when reduced to flour, mar be
conTerted into bread, cakes, puddings,
dumpling, ice cream, conserves, puree tor
soup, stuffing, and a hundred other tempt
ing tonus. Whole, they are made into
bon-bons, glaees, etc. Boiled in beef broth
they may be 'served as a Tegetable separ
ately, or as a garnish to meat, poultry,
game, etc.
As cold weather approaches, perhaps the
American housewife may be more inter
ested in knowing how to prepare a chestnut
stuffing for poultry, milk pigs, fresh hams,
etc., than other more pretentious product.
Here is the formula: Boast a pint of chest
nuts and peel off the outer and inner skin;
weigh them and simmer half a pound of
them for 20 minutes in as much Teal gravT
as will cover them; drain and let them cool;
then pound them in a mortar with four
ounces of butter, three ounces of bread
crumbs, a trifle of grated lemon peel, and
powdered mace, salt and a pinch of cayenne;
bind the mixture with the yolki of three
eges.
When deviled almonds cannot be had for
dessert, the chestnut thus prepared is an
admirable substitute. Peel the raw chest
nuts and scald them to remove the outer
skin; put them in a frying pan with a little
butter and toss the-t about a few moments;
add a sprinkle of salt and a suspension of
cayenna.
NO NEED OF THE KNIFE.
it
Is Ifow Almost Banished From the
Table The Force of Zlahlt Good
Uvlnc and Beauty TJsefal Hints and
Beclpes.
tWBITTEX TOR THE DISPATCH.!
The custom of eating most cooked food
at table with the fork has so far progressed
that now at formal dinners and party sup
pers the knife is frequently dispensed with
except for fruit; and this, as the event
shows, without for the most part any serious
inconvenience. When the caterer or the
cook understands his business in this par
ticular and has his meats duly prepared in
such a manner as to allow of their separa
tion into particles small enouzh to admit of
their being carried to the mouth, there .is
little need for the knife. These observa
tions apply only to those occasions which on
all sides are taken to be formal, and to those
persons who habitually or even occasion
ally are expected to conform to strict
usage. Of course, no one could be
so ungenerous as to infer that the
writer would bo s finical as to ad
vocate the abandonmtnt of the table knife
or to infringe on its well established and
useful use. We all admit that a great deal
ot lormalit coulu be dispense! with with
out loss, and that a great many habits
which hav s been acquired by persistence
and care are useless, but however much we
may thus philosophize none of us has forti
tude enough to innovate against the obliga
tions of the social rules which bind us.
And after all no less an authority than
Emerson has said that the most ultra de
mands of fashion are founded on common
sense. This does seem somewhat obscure,
but he logically make.; it quite plain, and
this is the more remarkable because hig
prejudices such as they were, would cer
tainly seem to have been against the cor
rectness of such an averment. But this
thing of fork-lore is worth considering.
Tho .Effects of Habit.
Custom and habit work wonderful results.
A Chinaman will get away with a bowl of
sonp by the use of his chopsticks with
greater rapidity than a European will with
a spoon. Sir Edwin Arnold, the poet,
lately a resident of Japan, is reported as
having avowed that when the art of using
chopsticks has been acquired they are
preterable to our own method, we may
not be surprised to learn from his indorse
ment that their common use may become
what is called in the jargon of fashion a
"fad."
Dr. Holbrook, editor of the Herald of
Health, advises the formation of "Eat-Your-Food-Slow-Societies,"
each member to be
fined when caught eating rapidly. He
thinks such societies are much needed, and
that they might be formed at every table.
They would serve to call attention to the
subject, and, finally, to aid in forming cor
rect habits of eating. We are all familiar
with the statement he .makes in regard to
Mr. Gladstone, who is so impressed with
the importance of perfect mastication that
he makes a practice himself and has taught
his family to do the same of chewing thor
ouehly every mouthful of food taken.
31r. Gladstone has dwelt so on the import
ance of this rule that it has become notori
ous; and we see at recurrent interalsthe
announcement of this personal character
istic made in various ways sometimes that
he takes 16 and sometimes that he takes 32
distinct chews to each several bite. But it
is conceded that the splendid health of this
distinguished gentleman at such
an advanced age is largely owing
to his extreme care in eating.
Brillat-Savarin, "the high priest of gas
tronomy,' the cotemporary of Talley
rand, another worthy gastronome, savs:
"The love of good living is in some sort in
stinctive in women, because it is favorable
to beauty."
Good Living and Beauty.
It has been proved, by a series of rigor
ously exact observations, that by a succu
lent, delicate and choice regimen, the ex
ternal appearances of age are kept away for
a long time. It gives more brilliancy to
the eye, more freshness to the skin, more
support to the muscles; and, as it is certain
in physiology that wrinkles, thoso
formidable enemiei of beauty, are caused
by the depression of muscle, it is equally
true that, other things being equal, those
who understand eating are comparatively
four years younger than those ignorant of
that "science. Painters and sculptors are
deeply penetrated with thistruth, for in
representing those w ho practice abstinence
by choice or duty, such as misers or anchor
ites, they always give them the pallor of
disease, the leanness of misery, and the
wrinkles ot decrepitude.
The subject of cookery has received a
large share of attention in all ages of which
memorials have been retained. Dr. John
son thought the matter of writing a cook
book was far above the capacity of the
ordinary woman; and Boswell, with his ac
customed modesty, says the doctor seriously
entertained the notion of writing one him
self. Buskin, the greatest art critic of modern
times, and who ranks rightly as one of the
masters of the English language, in his
work called 'Praeterita," stops in his ac
count ot Italian sculpturings and frescoes to
note a remembrance of his father's house
and kitchen and cook. "I have never"'
says he, "seen a fillet of veal rightly
roasted, nor a Yorkshire pudding rightly
basted, since Mary Stone lelt us to be mar
ried in 1S3G."
Egg Tea.
When tired and exhausted break afresh
egg into a enp of tea not too strong. Beat
well and mix with a glass of hot sweet milk.
Chestnuts Iced.
6elect flno chestnuts, remove the first skin,
boil them iu water, and when tender, re
move the second skin and dry thum in a
cloth; boil a pound of white sujrar, with a
little water to prevent it from Burning, and
make a clear syrup with it; this done put in
the chestnuts one by one, turning them with
a fork to get well iced. Tho syrup must bo
very hot. When the chestnuts are ready
take them out and stick them on a knitting
needle for them to dry. For 12 chestnuts use
a pound or sugar. Klmce Sebexa.
THE TABLE, THE BOUDOIR, HOME
GOWNS FOR THE WINTER.
The Edict Ha Gone "Forth ond "Woman
kind Will Be Pleased With It Bough
Cheviots and Tweeds An Ideal Street
Gown A Turkish-looking Fabric Cut
ting a Bodice.
rWEIITIX rOB TH DISrATCH.-
HE settled winter
styles begin at length
to appear out of the
demi-season's uncer
tainties. "We can
now speak with ab
solute certainty of
materials and cat of
garments to be worn
all the season with
the knowledge that
they will remain in
tyle.
By all odds, the
most beautiful dress
fabrics of the season
ere those prepared
for the street. It
fairly makes one happy to see the rough
cheviots and tweeds of North Britain
clothed with dyes that approach the splen
dor of Cashmere. The vigor of Scotland
appears in them, mingled with the fire of
the south. These textures, so thick and
warm and at the same time soft and cling
ing, are the perfection of winter fabrics.
Their colors are rich, yet low toned and
harmonious; an artist's brush seems to have
laid them on. The salesmen call them
"mixed effects."
Very Pleasing Color Effects.
They have, for the most part, grounds in
stripes, or broken spaces, of natural brown
and gray, which being of the same tone,
that is to say, without contrast of light and
dark, make artistic backgrounds for narrow
lines of pure color, and flaky dots of many
cues, wnicli all combmo into an agreeable
color
composition. The way these grounds
are keyed in hue to orange, or to red, or to
whatever colors ars. spread over them, 60
that instead of being crude they are glow
ing, makes one take heart to believe that we
moderns are not, after all, quite color blind.
If any fault is to be found with these ma
terials it is that there are too many eccentrio
figures, zigzags and lightning effects, but the
variety is great and tnese can be avoided.
The winter eheviots and camel's hair are
in simple colors mixed with white in the
weaving, and are -slain or in broken figures
of self color. These white mixtures are
more becoming than dark solid colors.
They run through shades enough, from
greenish gray to red, to satisfy the most ex
acting complexion. The prices for the
40-inch width, run from bl CO up to 52 SO
and 3 00. A very good one mav be had
for the first price, and though the more ex
pensive ones will be richer, it is well
enough for persons with sm-ill pocketbooks
to remember that additional expense in
quality will not give one iota more style.
Gown for Firth Avenue.
For an ideal street gown take of loosely
woven cheviot, or camel's hair, seven vards
of velvet, a yard and quarter, of lining silk'
three yards; of taffeta silk, for underskirt,
eight yards. Choose a dressmaker whose
specialty is fitting, or else choose a tailor,
lor the style of this gown depends en irely
on its cut. Let her make for the bodice a
jacket reaching nearly half way to the
knees, fitted in front without darts by
means of the nnder-arm seam, falling open
Hot for a CameVt Hair Suit.
down the front, with rounded corners, like
a man's cutaway coat It may have revers,
and one button and button-hole, though
there is more-beauty when the outline falls
in a straight line from the neck. The
shoulders and nnder-arm seams are sewed
over onto the back in the welt. Line the
jacket with silk of the same color, and in
terline for winter. Put one row of stitching
ronnd the edge of the jacket.
Make the sleeves loose at the shoul
ders where they join the coat. In cutting
them see that the cloth of both upper and
under sides runs straight at the hand and
bias at the top. This is an important point
which even reputable dressmakers often
overlook. On the texture being diagonal
depends the beauty of the full, gathered
top, which top continues to be made. Do
not exaggerate the fullness or you will vul
garize the garment Finish the wrist with
a blind hem. A Fifth avenue model has
the wrist lapped over and furnished with
three buttons.
Important About the Test.
The velvet vest is slightly pointed, and
extends five inches below the waist It is
fitted with darts and a seam down the mid
dle of the front, and opens along the line of
the first left dart All these seams are
turned open underneath, and there is a row
of stitching close to each side of the seam,
which' gives Hhe vest a look of having been
w ft
ml i Y
Mm f&i
The Ideal Street Gown.
tf5''sQ,)
molded onto the figure. It is fastened with
mall, flat, smoked pearl buttons. This
vest is a separate garment, the front being
placed on a lining, as is a man's vest. A
chamois underwaist may be added for
winter.
Fit the skirt as carefully as the waist.
The front breadth has the seams lapped over
In-Red Splashed With Oranae.
and stitched down on the outside, as are the
side seams of the jacket It is closed in the
front side seam, with three buttons and but
tonholes, which are hidden by the jacket
Hem it at bottom with a blind stitch.
This gown is entirely without trimming,
and its plainness is the great feature of its
style. If you add to the gown a coque's
feather boa and a rimless turban of felt,
having a roll of velvet about its edge, knot
ted in front, and some loops, or wings be
hind, yon will have a costume which for
style will not be exceeded through the
whole winter.
The skirt must be deml-train, with a very
full back. The underskirt, however, clears
the ground. It is separate from the outside
skirt, except at the belt, and this is to be
noted, as it is the sign of the radical
change in the character of skirts. Many
dressmakers use taffeta silk for the under
skirt, and, ruffling it, make it serve for a
petticoat
In Orange and Old Blue.
Camel's hairs are In the same mixed
effects of the cheviots, though some of
them have more color In the grounds. A
notably rich one of red splashed with
orange, In rich low tones, is coverei with
markings of old blue. This Turkish look
ing fabric has been made into a very chic
and Frenchy gown as followt: The Bkirt
Is slashed to the waist and falls apart slightly
to disclose an underbreadth of old blue silk.
The waist is round and falls apart in front,
like a slash, to dispose a crimped chemis
ette of old bine silk. It meets at the
throat and has a high rolling collar, lined
with the silk. The sleeves are Bishop,
straight and full and gathered
loosely an Inch and a half from the wrist,
and push back at will over a close sleeve of
the old blue silk.
The waist is finished with a leather belt
colored old bine, and having a buckle of
colored enamels set in Bilver. The shirt
and front of the waist are bordered with a
two-inch width of old blue velvet edged
with a narrow galoon of irridescent beads.
Asa Bache Cokh
WHY YOTO BODICE SITS AWBY.
A Thing That Seems to Be a Mystery to
Host Women Is Here Explained.'
nrnnxEjf roa the dispatch.
AIT) one woman to
another, anent her
new gown: "It must
be bewitched. I cut
and fitted it myself
by a pattern that is
just perfect, and see,
the back seem crawls
toward the left hip, and the side-forms are
apparently trying to climb to my arm-pits.
I assure "you I am quite desperate over
such manifestations of textile total de
pravity. From the looks anybody
would say I cut the thing out on Frdav."
'You did worse," said the other, eyeing
the garment critically; "you cut each piece
so the threads run the wrong way. Let me
tell you a secret I learned from a London
modiste. In cutting out a bodice
always shape each part so that
tne woot tnreaus win go as
TTle Way to Out Jl.
straight around your waist as the belt tape
does. That puts the warp perpendicular
and gives almost a perfect bias on the seams
in the back. Look at your back forms
You cut them, did you not", out of any piece
that was big enough? In each the threads
run differently, and all ways but the right
one.
"Then in fitting you gave no thought to
symmetry or proportion. Like these dress
makers, in fine, you took in your seams in
any way that promised to make a smooth,
tight fit By consequence, your back forms
are hardly an inch wide in the armhole. In
a well cut bodice they are as wide there as at
the waist line. The swell of bust and shoul
ders is accommodated by the back and front
figuies.
"When stuffis cut on the cross yon should
be as careful to havo a true bias around the
waist, and up the fronts and the back seams.
Another thing, if you want your gown to
sit smooth over the shoulder, before basting
it up stretch each front piece as much as
as you can half way from the neck to
the arm-hole, and hold the back full to it
for the same distance. Never mind the ap
parent pucker. Pressing will banish it and
The Way Not to Cut le,
give you an easy seam that will hug the
curve of the shoulder almost as a man's coat
does."
No use to deny the fact that Salvation
Oil is fast taking the place ot all other link
menta,
0 ATIONS
TRAINING A BEAUTY.
The Toung Girl Should Go Through Begu
lr Military Set-Dps Dancing Is an In
stinct Men Should Be Easily Beaten at
the Game of Football by Women
"Crning to Kick.
tWBITTES FOB THI DISr ATCH. 1
Awkward beauty wakens the pity of gods
and men. The latter have been known to
desert stolid perfection of color and features
for grace with lesser personal attraction.
Grace comes of two things proportions of
limb and good nervous controL Both sym
metry and control are gained by training.
The defects of stature and of limb are
overcome by exercise with greater ease than
by mechanical appliances in in-st cases.
Yon may take a bow-legged lad and oblige
him to wear steel braces which cripple him
a year or two in remedying the deform
ity, or you may put him ..under strict drill,
which will turn him out in the same time
straight as a model. In one case the
steel force coerces the limb, in the
other nerve force does it High shoulders,
irregular hips, rounded spine and awk
ward figure are better cured by the military
drill than by any braces or apparatus what
ever. You will find the proof of this among
the "West Point cadets, who are straight,
clean limbed and well proportioned almost
without exception. fc They are not chosen
for physical perfection, and only the drill
master knows what unpromising material
he works up into the carriage "becoming an
officer and a gentleman."
A Drlllmaster for Girls.
What is true of boys is jnst as true of
girls. The drillmaster, a soldier of experi
ence, was and is attached to every high
class finishing school for English girls.
Fanny Kemble tells us her French dancing
lessons failed to give her a good carriage or
teach her to hold herself upright She
stooped, slouched and poked, one hip np
and one shoulder down, which greatly
afflicted her parents. Among other devices
for improvement she was made to wear "a
hideous engine of torture of the back-board
species, of ftcel covered with red morocco,"
strapped around her waist and shoulders, a
steel rod at the top supporting a steel collar
to hold her chin up.
The ease and grace with which this horri
ble machine was to impart was hardly per
ceptible after considerable endurance of it,
and she was place-1 under the training of a
sergeant of the Boyal Foot Guards, who
taught young ladies to walk and carry them
selves well. "Thanks to his instructions,"
she says, "I remained endowed with a
flat back, well placed shoulders, erect head,
upright carriage and resolute step, the drill
being that daily given the awkward'squads
of the British forces. Of all women of our
century Mrs. Kemble best illustrated the
balanced high mental and physical gifts.
No one else leaves the impression ol in
tense, abounding vitality like hers, which
showed itself in her passion for activity of
all kinds. She could not exist without long
daily horseback rides or walks. She must
be hours in the open air, and cared equally
for dancing as the sheer poetry of move
ment She could repeat from memory
whole dances after Ellsler.
Dancing Is an Inttlncti
Many another staid woman of middle age
can svmpathize in this outbreak of physical
delight, for the passion of dancing is
instinct it healthy blood and is warm in
Puritan vien pity that ashes are laid upon
its fires! There is more in the exercise of
dancing to mnsio than mere amusement, or
rather it is a favorite amusement because it
so combines the stimulus of mnsio and its
nervous influence with lively and gentle
movement, which stirs every fibre of the
bodv. It is worth something for a woman
bred to restrained and conventional gestures
to hold her arms up and out, as she is
obliged to in round dances, and move in
time to quick music, setting her blood flow
ing through her veins, and, so to speak,
srating her poor little brains.
The ideal of the woman who has taught
herself to walk is a figure erect as a dart,
carried without any perceptible motion in
the straightest line between two points.
Her shoulders, her hips are carried still
and as little play allowed any limb as
suffices to get over the ground. It is more
pleasing than the walk which kicks up the
skirts behind or strides with a fencing step,
bending the knee prominently at each for
ward move, but it is neither natural nor
graceful. To walk well, one must first stand
well. Perhaps as good practice as any for
this is to balance a large tea tray loaded
with several wooden things which will not
break as they fall, and play image boy for
15 minutes at a time. It would be well if
the contents were plaster and dinner de
pending on their safety, for a steady carri
age would sooner be the result The two
hands may be used at first to steady the tray,
as the pose gives freedom to the arms, but
the balance must come from the neck, which
can be trained to look around and turn with
a load on the head as surely as a good rider
keeps her Beat Carrying burdens on the
head gives a noble-development of the bust.
The shoulders, elbows and hips full into
place and learn to stay there.
Playing Outdoor Games to Win,
The next point to gain is freedom of limb
and movement If our girls played quoits
like tne Greek girls of old, as youths play,
to win, not to be looked at, there would 6e
no need of teaching what the baby learns as
he leaves his cradle. I have had the privi
lege the past season of overlooking the
games of a lawn tennis club on grounds ad
joining, and I am constrained to admit that
the boys playing alone were much more in
teresting and graceful in their postures than
the girls, who alwavs seemed to feel that
they were being looked at rather than the
game.
They seemed afraid of stretching an arm
or taking a step too wide for conventional
proprieties, to move too fast or stoop for a
ball, if any one could be cajoled into pick
ing it up lor them. The exception was a
lassie with bright coloring and fresh vitality,
who ran after balls and threw them with all
her might, flung herself after them and
sprang to catch them on her racket v, ith the
same unconsciousness and real beauty of
motion you will see in a true antique. The
Greek athlete or the maiden were not think
ing whether they were playing in good form
or not They threw to hit the mark with
least waste of effort, and, so moving, so in
stinct, were supremely graceful; and models
for all time. They are the least conscious
of figures, and a girl of to-day would be
horrified at the idea of throwing her arms
out to their full length or springing in yard
wide steps in her game on the lawn like her
Greek forerunner in marble. Her move
ments are in a circle bounded by the
diameter of her hips.
A Girl Kicking a Football.
She can't throw a ball forsooth, because
her should.rs are not as square as those of
her brother. She cannot kick a football,
though I should like to know why she
should not excel in kicking, as her hips are
much wider and stronger in proportion than
a man's. It may not seem essential that
she should be a kicker; but the fact is she
cannot be thoroughly graceful Without
learning to kick. She needs that strength,
that pro ulsion from hips and knee which
forwards the ball, to lend buoyancy to her
walk and her dancing. One last word.
Kicking is the exercise ol all others which
gives strength and mobility to the organs on
whose good condition all her health and hap
piness depends through life.
It is abject cruelty to turn a girl from
easy, petted maidenhood to housekeeping
and cares of a lamily. 6he "may learn the
routine very quickly, but she cannot teach
her muscles to do easily and without strain
what they have not teen used to do from
childhood. If I had a girl to brine up she
should pass most "of her year in the coun
try, where she should be taught to throw
herself over a fence with as neat disposal
ot drapery and easy grace as a good
rider takes it on horseback. She should
run up hill and down by degrees
till aha could be reasonw,, vwJ,
N
N
of ability to run for a train without danger
of dropping dead with heart complaint
Women cannot take as much exercise as
cirls unless they have been accustomed to
it. One can sit on a chair and sway the
trunk forward and back or sideways, and
get shoulder exercise in plenty without tir
ing the weaker muscles of the hips by
standing through it all. You will get mucn
better exercise and development by throw
ing a quoit or a nine-ball than bv the idle
see-sawing of calisthenic or Sweetish train
ing. Shielex Dare.
DECORATING THE HOME.
'Common Sense Should Preside at Every In
ventionThe Fancy Worker Mast Re
member That Simplicity and Truth Are
Necessary In Art Some Incongruous
Conceptions Hints for the Beautiful.
rWBlTTEN FOB THI niSPATCH.l
ATAN holds out no
more alluring bait for
the idle hand of
woman than house
decoration. Whether
your abode be between
four walls or beneath
canvas, It should be
made beautiful. "Why
make it ugly?
There was once a
little lady who had
taken lessons in paint-
mg.
She bedizzened her drawing room
with cross-eyed cats on plates and
groups of daisies, symmetrical as
toothpicks. It occurred to her that
a snow scene would best dis
play her talent Her idea evolved thus:
Snow snow shovel snow scene painted on
snow shovel. Two days later her visitors
beheld beside the fireplace the decorated
implement a white satin bow streaming
from the handle, and a landscape glittering
with diamond dust and white enamel de
picted on its blade. This same apostle of
the. beautiful sent her physician a boot
jack, painted yellow. TJp "for'ard," as the
sailors say, were the inevitable sunflowers,
and where his foot should have fitted, a
large satin bow. This fantasy moved the
doctor, whose recording angel until now had
closed his book, for lack of occupation, to
exclaim "Decorative Hades!"
Is it for decorative purposes that your
rooms are filled with antagonistic lamps or
overloaded with china, whose instability
freezes ones blood with dread of a catastro
phe? Why aro those treacherous rugs for
ever sliding over pousneu floors and lying
in wait for man? Even if the wicked stand
in slippery places, why not spare the one
righteous?
A great oculist h3S said: "Modern houses
and their insane draperies are responsible
for modern eyes. People live like moles
and wonder that they see no better than a
mole." Is it on aesthetic grounds that yen
shut sunlight from your dwellings with in
finite pains and h'ideous materials? The
variegated shoestrings that dangle in door
ways, catching one's bonnet and scratching
the polish off one's nose, are at least free
from this defect
Don't imagine that you add to the loveli
ness of life by pinning up defunct birds and
other mortuary emblems indoors. Sooner
or later the fate befalls them, described by
ayoung woman to her friend, as follows:
"Yon know that white dove we had fas
tened to the parlor curtains? I cleaned
house the other day and took it down. It
was so dirty I couldn't stand it First. I
dusted it and then I washed it, but it wasn't
fit to be seen, so I took it out to "Woodlawn
and laid it on mother's grave!"
One word in conclusion. If yon wish to
beautify your home think of the effect you
seek. Ask yourself: "Why do I put this
color here? What reason is there for the
shape of that chair?" If you can't give a
reason for the faith that is in you, change
the faith. Study the laws of harmony and
proportion. Don't attempt contrasts, which
are difficult to practiced artists. Cultivate
common sense. Art is the most sensible
thing in this world. Simplicity and truth
aro its exponents and reason is its hand
maiden. Mabt Elizabeth Bucxxabb.
THE PAPEE ON THE WAXU.
Some
Suggestions as to Harmony With
Carpets and Woodwork.
rWBITTElf TOK THI DISPATCH.!
O THE average house
'ceeper one of the
most distressing ac
companiment s of
house or flat moving
is the matter of wall
decoration. If your
carpets are figured use
plain cartridge paper
on the walls; if on the
other hand the carpet
Is of a solid color with rugs scantily used,
the paper must have a small vine or a sim
ple diaper pattern. With the walls papered
with copper-pink in any desired tint, paint
the woodwork in the next darker shade.
Then around the wal's,about34J inches from
the floor put a narrow wooden molding
painted the same color as the woodwork,
also one at the top of the paper just under
the cornice to hang pictures on. Tbe ceil
ing can be calcimined in white with the
least bit of pink mixed with the white
wash. A verv simple pattern in stencil,
such a one as Is here suggested, about the
edges, is charming and gives a most refined
air to the room.
The little guest chamber shall have a
white dado with light China-blue cartridge
paper above, or blue and white paper n a
small pattern, if preferred. The dining
room is best in cream color, both in walls
and ceiling, particularly if it is not well
lighted. Paper the walls in the bed
room with a warm ochre. Paint the wood
work with a neutral tint of brown that
will harmonize but not match; treat the
walls iu the same way, as to molding and
picture rail, as the sitting room. The walls
of the kitchen and bath room need only
painting. Either chrome-yellow or light
olive is good for the kitchen as neither
shows smoke. Dora Wheelee.
A SIMPLE OBA6S MAT SEAT.
How to Make a Parlor Ornament That
Will Please Eye and Best Body.
rwntTTEX FOB THE DISFATCH.J
To make this pretty seat, get a butter
or lard tub and, after cleaning and Band
papering, cover the side with lined surah
or silesia, gathering or tacking the full
ness on the upper and lower edges.
Cover the fastening with fine hemp rope
in- a sort ' of chain-stitch. The tassels are
made of bits of rope rather more than
twice the length of tne distance from the
top oi the seat to the floor. Untwist the
bit and pass it through the upper chain,
fasten each by o sailor knot, -or 'a "half-
The Seat Complete.
hitch" m they call it and tack it is place.
The top Is covered by a grass" mat fastened
on with with double tacks or matting tacks.
HATIXT 19 TABU COVM.
A Dream of Zavellness for a Young: GtrTs
Boom and Other Designs.
rWBITTXK TOE TUX DISFATCB.1
COVEB whlci Is
specially well suited
to a young girl's room
is made of baby-blue
linen. The hem, which
is turned up on the
right 'side and is fin
ished with a couch
ing of heavy white
linen floss. Above
the hem the design is
first drawn or stamped,
and is then couched on all its outlines with
floss, like that which finishes the hem.
The cloth is sweet and pure in tone
and of eminently serviceable material,
For a Yonng GirVs Room.
and its very simplicity recommends it to
the highest taste. It 'is well suited to any
room of dainty coloring, but, as its tin's are
peculiarly suggestive ot youth, it belongs,
by natural selection, to the room of a
maiden fair.
A second cover, at once elegant and easy
of execution, is made of saiin brocade.
That is, of brocade of satin figures in
the background of silk of the same
color. Each figure is outlined with fine
goldthread, and here and there an oc-
In Brocade ggft.
casional one is darned, fish-scaled or filled
with some other fancy stitch worked In gold.
The edge is finished with a band of velvet,
one shade darker than the silk, and the
whole is lined with ordinary cotton flannel.
The effect of tiny line of gold is to give
great brilliancy to the cover, and, as the
work is simplicity itself, it can safely be
undertaken by the -least expert of needle
women. A SHADE OF PALKLEAP PAH.
Pretty Designs for the Ball lamp or tho
Big One at the Piano.
rWHITTKr FOB THE DISPATCH.!
A soft lined lamp shade is made of four
small palm-leaf fans. Cut off the
handles and tie them together In shape
slightly overlapping each other with
A Simple Shade.
narrow satin ribbon or gold tinsel cord.
Hang a few bangles or small shells on the
lower edges. Gilding in very small quan
tity looks pretty, but soon becomes tar
nished. A SAIAD MADE OP APPLES,
The Achievement of a Staten Island Woman
In the Way or Novelty.
Something new for the table is contributed
by Hattie Wilton. She got it from a Staten
Island woman, as she says below: A few
days ago a clever woman gave agoodby
luncheon at her country home in Staten
Island before she closed it for her return to
the city. Now, this woman has never quite
invented a new animal or a new fruit, but
she has invented new methods of using
these things which as nearly approach orig
inal creation as even that clever woman will
ever come.
The last achievement was offered at her
good-bv luncheon. It was an apple salad,
and this is how she made it: She used for
the basis solid tart apples, pared and cut
into small bits. With this she mixed an
equal quantity of celery, cut in bits of the
same size. After thoroughly mixing, she
dressed them in the salad bowl with a
simple mayonnaise made as follows: Into
the yolk of one egg previously beaten, a
sufficient quantity of salad oil was slowly
dropped to make a thick cream, which was
then thinned to the proper consistency by
vinegar, added as carefully. Add .pepper
and salt to taste,- and the mayonnaise was
ready to dress the salad.
' "i J "da" ""
Ic-
Well Understood.
It is well understood by reliable dealers that
Dr. Price's Delicious Flavoring Extracts have
constituted for years past the standard flavors
in all the markets of this country. That they
are regarded as among the most successful
and creditable products and are -unquestionably,
if the opinion of the best class of con
sumers is worthy of acceptance, the purest
strongest, and finest flavoring extracts in the
world.
- -. -i
GELS WHO SUCCEED.
A Newspaper Woman Who Has Woa
Fame Gives Some Advice.
LEAVING THE PATERNAL EOOF.
A "DiffennM Eetween Wounded FeeHnj
and Wounded Vanity.
ESPEISSIUQ TASTES ASD OPOTjWB
IWmn.1 FOB THE Dtsr-ATCH.1
Most earnest girls nowadays come Into
maturity with a real longing for work.
There are reposeful, middle-aged people, to
be sure, who firmly believe, that this Is a
mischievous and misplaced activity, and
that it is going to work out all kinds of de
struction if tho race of women take to other
things than domestic and polite accomplish,
ments. Be that as it will; it doesn't pay to
argue about what we shallnever live to prove.
Here you are, hundreds of you, girls who
honestly want to work and who are honestly
averse to housework. It also happens to bi
true that women, like men, work for wages,
and that the wages a girl gets for house
work, even in her father's house, are not
such as encourage you to adopt housework
as a profession. And so it happens that
you are thinking to-day about a wage-earning
business outside your home, more than
you are thinking about a husband.
The first thing you've got to know Is what
you can do best To find that out, consult
your taste. If you think It would be beau
tiful to trim hats or make gowns, say so and
stick to it Then go to the best milliner or
dressmaker in your town and ask her to let
you come into her shop and learn. She
won't pay yon at first, but your father has
fed you for several years, and can probably
discharge that paternal duty for a few
months longer.
Disdaining 3Iodest Beginnings.
If you are bookish and the law or medi
cine attracts yon, go to the office of your
father's lawyer or physician and borrow his
simplest book and study it In any case
don't disdain the modest beginning that
lies nearest your hand; you are not ready
for wider fields yet. And when you've
settled upon a work, don't play with it;
learn to treat it just as seriously as your
big brother or your father treats his.
And so as your diligence and knowledge
grow together you will perhaps come to a
point where you must leave your father'
roof in order to finish your preparation for
work or to widen your competence and so
increase your wages. You must leave your
small town for a city or the small city for a
larger one. Before this can be considered
for a moment one of two things is impera
tive: either you must have the certainty
not the mere possibility of something to
work at that will give you a modest living,
or else you must have money enough in re
serve to pay your way for a year ahead.
There Is no compromising with this, icver
leave your father's home on any other con
ditions. Doesn't Hurt to Get Discouraged.
"With this provision made, go Into your
work with the whole of you. Take care of
your health, and, for the rest, give your
mind and body to your duties. You will
get discouraged in every fiber of your tired
body, but it will only do you good. The
man or woman who doesn't get discouraged
often and often, seeing his ultimate reach
beyond his daily grasp, doesn't see far
enough ahead ever to succeed. So be
sure that you will get discouraged,
and getting discouraged, encourage
yourself because of that very thing.
You will probably be thrown much among
men. Learn not to expect jiarlor etiquette
in business places. You are not there to in.
terpiet the amenities of life to a lot of busy
men, but to do your work competently and
go your way sensibly. They may be as
Kindly intentioned as your own brothers,
but theyaretoo busy to assure you of their
distinguished consideration. If they treat
you brusquely, directly and frankly,
they're paying you the compliment
ot treating you like a sensible woman.
You will have to keep your tastes,
opinions and purposes thoroughly to your
self. One young woman in newswaper
work In New York had what she called
"conscientious scruples" against certain
kind3 of newspaper necessities and she
wanted to argue them out with every editor
she talked to. She failed iu her work and
it served her right; not because she had
"conscientious scruples," but because she
aired them where she had no business to.
Don't Look for the Disagreeable.
Neither have vonr tastes any more pis
in your work. You will have to learn to do
what you are told to do, and reflect that if
you find the task insuperably objectionable,
you have the largest liberty to give some
one else the. opportunity of trying it Above
all, don't always be looking for things to
hurt your feelings. They'll come some
times, 'and bruise you in every fiber till
you'll want to put your head down in your
mother a lap and cry like a little girl. But
you must learn to distinguish between
wounded feelings and wounded vanity. A
woman cries nine times out oi wounded,
vanity and once out of the wounded soul
that calls for divinest soothing to heaL Let
your vanity smart all it will; it's good for
most of us, for vanity is a kind of "proud
flesh" of the soul that has to be treated
with caustic to keep it from becoming an
excrescence that will disfigure.
Another thing you will have to learn Is to
keep vour word; to go where you'll iT
you ll go, and come when you say you'll
come, and let the heavens drop if they will.
But they won't except in blessing on your
head.
Last of all you may be the daughter of
rich parents and you may not If you are
the former, behave yourself as If you were
the latter. Don't preface your first request
for work with the information that yon are
foing to work because you have to; it's bad
usiness policy and worse taste, and none of
your employer's business any way.
These are the few things you will have to
learn. The way is long and wearisome often,
but it is as smooth for you to-day as it is fox
men. Helex Wattebsost.
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