THE PITTSBURG - -DISPATCH, SUNDAY, JANUARY 26, 1890.- 20 pa iftJfyWlHS World ORIGIN OP FASHIONS. Cha Rise and Fall of Governments Has Had Hack to do With It, and Princesses and Actresses More Common Sense Predom inates Mow. 1WBITTIX FOB THB DISPATCH. WHERE the fatn. ions come from is as much a matter of query as where the pins go. I think it is not generally known how much the rise and fall of Governments have had to do with es tablishing certain and popular fash ions. It is chron icled that d urine the French Revolution everything pertain ing to monarchical styles was abolished, and later came the craze for Republican simplicity, which, under the Directory, be came greatly modified, and that when Na poleon invested himself with the imperial purple, the court ladies renounced the inex pensive (?) attire, and blossomed out in those graceful creations known as Empire, Josephine and Recamier toilets, which the wheels of time have so lately bronght round a Sain for our inspection and wise adoption, 'since they are more or less becoming to every style. How frequently it happens, and how pain ful the observation, that when one of ocr beauties adopts a style particularly suited to her, her caprice is at once recklessly and, alasl lavishly apiiropriated by othersisters, to whom the gods were less kind in their distribution of flesh and blood favors and the result is a caricature. This need never happen. Fashions there are in plenty, 'and suitable to every style of perfection and im perfection of faeeand figure. I do not re member a time when there was so much lati tude in dress allowable as during the pres ent season; and it is a pleasure to say, I think, our women are becoming too pro gressive in matters of dress to abjectly fol low a mode because someone else finds it be coming. TO niDE PERSONAL DEFECTS. Time was when women dressed as nearly alike as was possible, blindly following a leader, with no consideration for length, breadth or thickness. So that when Queen "Victoria adopted crinoline, straightway the thick the thin, the tall and the short, rushed to crinoline, and with what shocking effect! Nor is this the only style inaugurated to hide a personal defect. Very many of fashion's vagaries can be accounted for in this way. "We are told the handkerchief would have remained in our pockets to be used only in strictest privacy, had it not been for the catarrhal ailment of a quaen ; and that we are indebted to an English sovereign, who bad scrofula on ber neck, for the ruff or ruch. But probably more of our fashions have had their origin before the footlights than upon the throne, actresses and prima donnas having always been prominent in introducing new fashions. Sara Bernhardt has been called the patron saint of thin women, since by making a study of her physical defects she has help d us discover our own, and more or less adopt her artistic and effective remedies. To the erratic Sara we mu t be grateful for most of the loose and nnfett'ed in styles the Fedora vest, mother hubbard wraps, wrinkled gloves, Grecian draperies, flowing scarfs, etc but 1 think Madam Bernhardt, with all her love of the "loose" drapery, must be self-satisfied with not having intro ducing a thing so unbecoming and deserved ly unpopular as the Hading veil, which, by the way, "pretty Jane" declines the honor of having created. THE PBEJTCESS OF "WALES. To the charming Princess of Wales, I think, we are indebted for more that is sen sible as well as beautiful, than to any other person. In the styles of her adoption we have an example of the ladylike all absence of the "flash" or vulgar street dis- Jilay, denoted by loud bonnets, glittering ewels and elaborate dresses and wraps. (Pittsburg women who do their own market ing please take notice.") I am under the im pression it was the Princess of "Wales who introduced thatqueen of street and traveling gowns the tailor-made which simplicity of costume it is gratifying to notice remains in poDular favor. In the dresses of the present season we no tice no senseless "gimcracks" at the expense of yards of material; no over-done draperies, but everything for out-of-door wear has an air of cultured simplicity. The untidy long skirt, which was heralded so long ahead of the season, must have been still-born, since it has not been publicly paraded. That bug bear to the masculine mind, the ''horrid bustle," is reduced almost to normal lines; sleeves are cut with a view to free circula tion of the blood, thereby giving the men a monopoly of red noses; draperies were never more literally within the confines of good taste; lacing is deemed too vulgar for men tion and, in short, comfort seems to be, at last, as largely studied as effect. BAB SULIiETEBY SELECTIONS. I think more mistakes are made in the selection of suitable and becominc millinery than in matters of dress. There is something of an excuse for this the present season since there never was less new and "taking" in this line on the market It is supposable that the acme of perfection is thought to have been reached, since we have this season been given a rehash of last summer's styles, which include the capote, the turban, the Alpine and the Gainsborough, any one of which may be rendered almost new in style, and certainly becoming in appearance, by the placing of decorations adjusted to suit the shape of the wearer's face. "Why so many of us continue to go masquerading about in a bonnet or hat, which by virtue of the eternal fitness of the thing rightly belongs to another, is a mystery. "Why will the thin and wrinkled face continue to play hide and seek under the wide spreading Gainsborough, and the full round face keep on smiling in blissful unconsciousness of the who-killed-cock-robin air, the turban or capote, several times too small for her head, has given her. Surely we could avoid much of this freakish appearance by a little timely thought ana the cultivation of, Good sense which only is tbe gift of Heaven, And though no science is worth the other seven. Meg McGiittt. A SOCIETY GIRL REBUKED. She Had All Day to Dress, bat Kept Her Escort Waiting. New York Sun. 3 A severe but well-merited rebuke was administered not long ago to a society girl by a young man who has the courage of very creditable convictions upon a certain com mon lack of the nicest courtesy among young women who are really very well bred, V 4 and who would not offend for the world i they stopped to think. He told the story himself as follows: "During one of my busiest weeks I in vited a young woman to go with me to the theater on a certain first night. "When the evening came I reached her home shortly before 8 o'clock. I waited in the reception room for some time. Then the mamma appeared. We chatted for a quarter of an hour longer. Still no signs of the young woman. I looked at my watch; it was just time for the curtain to rise at the theater. I particularly wanted to see the opening of the play. "Then I rose and took one of my checks from my pocket. 'Madam,' I said to the mother, 'here is the check for Miss D 's chair and the carriage is at the door. "Will you be kind enough to ask her to come when it suits her best. For myself, I want to see the opening of the play.' And I walked out," "And what did the young woman do?" asked three breathless listeners all at once. "She came in the course of half an hour. She had good sense enough to take the re bake in the right way. She knew she de served it" "Oh, but I would never have forgiven you!" sighed the chorus. A WEAP FOR WINTER. Novelty From Farls Suitable to the Florida and Georgia Resorts. "Tout Paris" is pluming its wing for flight southward. Every day we hear of a new flock of swallows, French, English and American, starting southward, bound for the Biviera and Algiers. This season North Africa and Egypt seem to be disputing with the south of France and Italy, especially with Americans, who are such indefatigable travelers and very fond of the Orient One sees in all the London shops novelties pre pared for these tropical resorts. Hats are specially made for the sunny winters of Nice, and gowns and wraps for the half- tropical weather of Algiers. The same ideas will hold good for Florida and the Georgia resorts, where the climate is almost identical with that of the Biviera. Bedfern, of Paris, has a handsome estab lishment in the Bue de Bivoli, and is con nected with the London and New York houses, but has the advantage of a little Parisian chic in his designs. He has de signed a number of stylish wraps for wear iu Southern climates. The one given in the sketch is called the "Algerian wrap," and has been specially made for the Grand Duchess Vladimir of Bussia, who is now at Cannes. This cloak is to be worn in the carriage or promenade when a slight protec tion against wind and sun is required. The wrap is of white cloth, with an underbody fitted like a long cloak without sleeves, and coming to the hem of the dress. This under cloak is bound with flat gold braid down the front and around the bottom. Over this is worn a loose cloak, which hangs loosely around the figure, reaching also to the bot tom of the skirt The neck has a broad collar of skunk fur, which extends down both sides of the front The back of the loose cloak is held in by a gold belt, as shown in the sketch, and the end of the front is thrown over the shoulder in Spanish fashion. HATS AND BONNETS. The Pretty Pieces the London Shops Are Turning Oat. London is out with anew hat and a new bonnet The bonnet is of black velvet and jet, with amber strings and an aigrette of tbe same shade. It is ladylike and quiet and suitable for a middle aged matron. The hat is of brown velvet, with ribbon bows and a feather shaded from brown to pale blue. Some pretty hats making for London brides maids are of white cloth nearly hidden by white feathers. The broad brim of each hat is bordered with an ostrich feather, and a shorter feather trims the crown. A couple of pink silk rosettes give the touch of color required. A bonnet of black velvet with a bunch of snowdrops and violets is particularly becoming; so is a littleParisian bonnet of terra velvet, trimmed with black lace and a iet ornament in front Lace is rarely seen on any other than French bon-1 ft . SSlSa Til fM iVI The Algerian Wrap. . Hx f - Lm isr mjs, The Latest in London. nets at this season. A smart-looking toque of green velvet is trimmed with white cloth and bordered with beaver. Two small green birds set off the front THE NEWEST FANCI ARTICLES. Ordinary Baskets Trimmed Up Into Articles of Bare Deantr. The newest fancy articles that have been devised this season and collected by the best shops, merely ring the changes on trimmed and beautified baskets and shapes covered with printed Indian or pongee silk, which is very little inore costly than cre tonne and scarcely prettier, except in its colorings, which are softer. Our illustra tion No. 1 shows one of these made over a basket, a common little wicker thing pretty much the shape of a red flowerpot The first proceeding is to line the basket by putting a round of cardboard at the bottom inside, covering it with copper colored silk, and sewing to it on the wrong side a piece ot the silk, which will be lull where sewn on, but nearly plain at the mouth of the basket, and deep enough to turn over the top of it and be tacked down. Now for the outer covering. First, cut two pieces of stout cardboard either into a round or octagonal shape, according to the make of the basket, and just large enough for it to stand on. Cover each with a suitable sateen, or any cretonne, or even glazed lining, that may be at hand; sew lightly to gether, and then take your printed pongee, with a maize or straw colored ground, and a copper-colored floral pattern on it Sew it to the rounds of cardboard.put the basket inside, and with a few small but strong silken stitches attach the outer covering to the covered rim of the basket Hem the top of the silk, making a running about half an inch up tbe hem, so as to allow of a ribbon or cord being put in to draw it up; add rib bons to taste (which are very cheap), and in order to make the article look smart on a bazaar stall, or as a present, put a roll of stiff paper inside, so that the upper part may not "flop." REVIVAL OF LACE DARNING. A Needlo Art Popular Half a Century Ago Popular Again. Philadelphia Becord. There has been during the season a de cided revival of the darned lace of our grandmothers, over which Mrs. "Wheeler, of the Society of Decorative Art, is en thusiastic Fifty years ago darning lace was a fashionable accomplishment, and the designs were then as now copied from Spanish laces. Brussels net is usedjas the foundation upon which the designs are first outlined with lustrous linen floss, and the fabric of the lace changed within these out lines by lancy lace stitches. Silk floss is also used, and makes handsomer work than linen. The effect is singularly light and fleecy, and the revival has doubtless come to stay. The darned lace is useful in a great vari ety ot ways, bet is especially applicable to the ornamentation of woman's dress, where it appears in the shape of overdresses, slips, flounces and deep borders. One artistic young woman has had her wedding veil darned with white floss in a chrysanthemum design. Darned lace may also be applied to lamp shades and ornamental screens. In this sort of work the introduction of a color would be admirable. Another use to which darned work may be put is in the ornamentation of various kinds of linen. A screen recently shown by the Decorative Art Society was threefold, the design being executed upon Persian linen, the silks employed being in the palest shades of blue, pink and yellow most harmon iously blended. Th'e background was also darned with salmon pink, the effect of the mass of needlework being extremely rich. Young women with plenty of leisure are applying darned work to their woolen dresses, some of which are thus made very elaborate looking. The fabric should be loosely woven, and, after the design is stamped, outlined with coarse twisted silk. The design was then filled in with darning stitches with filo floss. Some of the loosely woven nun's veilings for early spring wear are being elaborately embroidered in the same fashion, using fine crewel in place of silk. From these and other signs il would appear that darned work is bound in any case to last the year through, even if put to such ordinary uses. A Novel Beit. Novel belt in dark velvet, with the two ends crossed in front, and finished off in front with claws in gold and diamonds. The Queen, January 4. Kenson for Joining Chores. Barlinftton Free Press. "We cannot always approve the arguments which are used to get people to join the church. For instance, here is one we heard the other day: "Every unmarried man ought to join the church, for there is no tell ing how soon he will want the church to join him." He Draws It Fine Harpers Younjr People. "Willie is a very observant youth. He seemed to prefer smaller boys for compan ions, and when asked why, replied: "Well, I notice the bigger boys play with me, but I don't play with them. I want somebody I can play with." There is certainly a very fine distinction here. Him STORIES OF GHOSTS. Elaborate Collection of the Boston Psychical' Society. EXPERIMENTING IN HYPNOTISM, One of the Amusing Franks of Actors Aldricu and Thome. EXERCISES IN MEMORI OF BEOWNING 1COBBXSP02TPENCI OT THX DISPATCH. I Boston, January 25. The first report of the American Psychical Society was issued in Boston five years since, and last week that body ceased to exist as a separate or ganization. It will still linger on nomin ally as a branch of the English society, but I trust I may be pardoned if I say that it is hardly likely to effect much in this new form. If it could not get a grasp upon the unseen world as an independent society it is not easy to see how sinking into a semi dependent arm of the British organization is likely to aid it. The plain truth is, I suspect, that funds for continuing the so ciety are not forthcoming on this side of the ocean, and this is an effort to have the En glishmen who are interested in the subject help out the American branch. I took the liberty of saying when the work was organized in this country that the En glish society was founded with a view to Droving that all the ghost stories were true, while the American society, on the contra ry, was established to prove that they were all false. This was as accurate as general troths ever are; but those who had been skeptics from the first dropped out one by one, so that in the end the activity was con fined pretty exclusively to those who in their heart of hearts believed at least that there are things in heaven and earth un dreamed of in philosophy. They imported as secretary a member of the English body, and they have collected a vast deal of ma terial ot which a skeptical outsider can see no earthly or unearthly value, and for aught I know to the contrary, the members may pass uncounted hours brooding over this accumulation of matter. The only amusing thing about this is that they have got together a lot of tales of the supernatural, or what passes as such, which it would be worth tbe while of some enter prising publisher to secure and publish. They are seldom Authenticated, of course; and when they are, the authentification is not infrequently more doubtful than its ab sence would be; but they are often very en tertaining, and in an age so fond of stories of this sort as is the present they might be made to yield money enough, if properly handled, to set the impoverished Psychical Society upon its shaky pins once more. FOOLING "WITH HYPNOTISM. The thing which is being pushed by some of the physicians who are members of the i-.l 1 r ml. 1 1 BUCiefcy is uvpuuusuj. xunc uas ueeu suiub attempt to hypnotize patients, but thus far the success attending the experiment has not been brilliant. Dr. Blank puts me in a chair," one of the subjects said to me, "and then he sits down before me and says: 'Now look at me for three-quarters of an hour.' So I try not to laugh, and look at him for 15 minutes, and then he tells me to shut my eyes, and he rests a little while, and then I look at him for 15 minutes more, and sometimes he makes passes over me, and then he says: 'You cannot open your eyes.' And I say: 'Yes, I can'; and I do; and then he says I take the matter too flippantly." , It seems not impossible that she does, but those subjects with whom experiment has been more successful are rather more than suspected of having decided to humbug the doctors. To one patient who is troubled with nervous exhaustion, loss of appetite and with sleeplessness the doctor said, after having apparently hypnotized her: "When you wake you will be hungry and sleepy." He repeated this several times, until the subject, seemingl r tired of it for the mo ment, confused into supposing that he wished a reply, opened her eves and an swered; "Why, no, I shan't, either." The experiment was naturally not consid ered a success in this instance. THE BBOTVNING KEMOBIAX SEBVICE. The event ot the week in literary circles has been the Browning memorial services held in King's Chapel on Tuesday alter noon. The exercises were held under the auspices of the Browning Club, of which Colonel Thomas Wentworth Higginson is President, and the opening address was made by that gentleman. There were sev eral speakers, but the event of the day was the eloquent address by Prof. C. Carroll Everett of Harvard. The music was made up of elegiac compositions and selections from songs from Browning's works. The lyric3 of Browning do not as a rule lend themselves to music with sufficient flexibil ity, but the selection was so well made by llr. B. J. Lang, who had this portion of the programme in charge, that this defect was not apparent King's Chapel is coming to be associated in the minds of many with those solemn oc casions when the last rites of respect are paid to the dead who have in lire been in one way or another illustrious; and it is a purpose to which it is peculiarly adapted. The solemn and antiquated dignity of its interior, the associations which cluster so thickly here and the dimness of tbe place combine to harmonize with the feelings of those who come together to mourn for the dead; and on Tuesday this fact added to the feeling natural in a memorial service for one who has been honored, a sentiment of tender and, as it were, personal regret which was very touching. PBAISES FOB CABLYLE. Another dead author is this week honored in a different way here. We have with us always, like the poor in scripture, some Englishman or other who lectures. In the present instance the lecturer is Mr. Bobert Niven, of London, who is really an admira ble man, albeit the fact that he is endeavor ing to lead us up to a higher admiration of Carlyle might throw serious doubts upon that statement. He speaks under the auspices of the Bev. Phillips Brooks, James Bussell Lowell, the Bev. Ed ward Hale and so on; so that it may be seen that he does not lack backers. For the rest he is an extraordinarily nervous and demonstrative bodj.rather more like a Frenchman than an Englishman, and, of course, he is being lionized. I have nothing to say of his ad dress, for I hate Carlyle, and I detest lectures, so that I never willingly expose myself to a dose of either. The New Yorkers are taking on airs over the Ladies' Athletic Club and making a good deal of a point of its being the first of its kind ever established in the country. Nominally it may be so, but tbe ladies' gymnasium has been so long a recognized thing here that the mere difference of name does not seem to make a novelty nt the thing. There is, moreover, the ladies' fencing class, and one would think that upon the strength of the two together Boston could hold up her head even though she has no club for the fair sex, technically called athletic A LONG-NAMED SOCIETY. It should be considered, moreover, that there is the Massachusetts Society for the Universal Education of Women which held its annual meeting this week, and what is a mere worldly athletic club beside a length of name like that? I am so much under a cloud with the women's rights advocates because I venture to believe that it would not be an advantage to them or the country if women, were allowed to vote, that it is with fear and trembling I mention this long-named society, since I cannot but think iU deliberations are very droll. The members take it so seriously, and they listen with faces of so much primness and carefully simulated delight to papers upon "Educational Progress" and the like in which woman is never mentioned without a Yery large and very black capital, that it seems unfeeling to do otherwise than take them seriously also if only one could but do HI Apropos of the fact that a recent play pro duced h'ere was so bad that the actors did not hesitate to guy it as they played, one of the cleverest stage managers in Boston told this story the other evening, remarking that it had never been in print: Some years since Mr. Charles Thome and Mr. Louis Aldrich were in the stock company of the Boston Theater. It was then the custom of the management to send the company out upon the road, as the phrase goes, on Saturday nights, replacing them by some transient show. On these provincial excursions it was hardly to be expected that the actors would do their best, and as a matter of fact they were often wildly irregular in their acting, Aldrich and Thome being especially famous for either guying each other or getting up jests. A PAIR 07 EUSSET BOOTS. On one occasion the company played the "Tour de Nesle" at some suburban place, I think at Lynn, althouzh as that town has so recently been half destroyed by fire I am not willing to put the responsibility upon it without being more certain. As he was going upon the stage for the first time that evening xnorne cnancea to see a pair or rus set boots which were not in use Quietly taking them in his hand he walked upon the stage and deposited them upon the table. Aldrich, who scented a jest at once, was on at the time but had his exit first. When he went off he calmly took the russet boots away with him. When he had occa sion to come back again in a moment, he brought them back and set them in a chair. Thorne took them out with him; and the next one who came upon the scene made bis appearance with the boots in his hand. It was the russet boots, and always the russet boots throughout the entire play. They were taken on and carried off with perfect gravity, until it is to be feared that the spectators must have come to the conclusion that the etiquette of the times in which the scene of the play was laid demanded that a pair of russet boots should accompany every appearance of a man of a certain rank. THE CBITIC CAUGHT ON. All this was one of those amusingly silly things which serve admirably to laugh over, but the sequel was genuinely funny. Some months after a traveling company came to Lynn, and once more presented "the "Tour de Nesle." There was no guying here. It was a matter of bread and butter with these players to do well iu the provinces, and they played their best The next day a local paper remarked, with some asperify, that a garbled version of the play had been given, and that those who had been so for tunate as to see the Boston Theater Com pany in the same piece must have noticed the difference. It would not go into details at length, as the occasion was hardly worth it, but It could not refrain from mentioning that admirable and important business with the boots, which, for some unaccountable reason, the present company had seen fit to omit altogether. What the strolling com pany thought of this extraordinary notice is not recorded, but they must have been suffi ciently puzzled. Ablo Bates. FEEDS BOTH BODI AMD MIND. Some of tbe Good Words Spoken for Boot land's Oatmeal. Newcastle, Eng., Chronicle. Oatmeal advocates have to face many buf fets, and the oft-quoted definition of Dr. Johnion is pretty sure to be thrown in their teeth. Tbe reproach is about as groundless as that which attributes to Scotchmen a lack of appreciation of the soul of wit. What ever some may think of it, the simple and homely fare of the "land of cakes" has called forth a high testimonial from Mr. Buskin. "When I lived in Scotland," said the famous artist and art critic to a re cent visitor, "I used to take porridge every day, and then I was ruddy and robust, but now you see what a poor, dyspeptic man your English beef and mutton have made me." On a late occasion, Dr. Geddes, Prin cipal ot Aberdeen University, referred to the success which had attended the students. from that seat of learning in a competitive examination, and said the result was not en tirely due to the teachers, but to the grit of the granite nnd the stability of the Northern oatmeal. The wholesome porridge, "chief o' Scotia's food," as Burns terms it, is evi dently not a bad thing for either body or mind. HE HISSES DAN LAMONT. Experiences af the Newspaper Reporters With Ex-President Cleveland. New York Press. The newspaper reporters who have had oc casion recently to call on ex-President Cleveland to ask him about various matters in which he has been reported as interested, tell among themselves some odd stories about his expressions to them. On several recent occasions he has been so angry as to express himself in language that they would not dare to print because of his violence and their fear that he would repudiate it after it got into type. On other occasions he has asked some one of the reporters with whom he was better acquainted than others to tell him what onght to be said. Un one matter he is said to have asked a reporter to write out what the lat ter thought would sound well, and then authorized its publication. It all goes to show that he misses Colonel Dan Lamont, who was his mouthpiece for six years, and always talked for him to the newspaper men. I fancy from the number of letters he has been writing, and which somehow get into print, that he is missing the little Colo nel's adroit pen as well as ability to manip ulate the press gang. UNCLE SAM'S BORDER LINE. There Aro 3SS Monument!, (II Itlndo of Iron and Cedar. February Wide Awake. For many years the question of boundary between the United States and the possessions of Great Britain was discussed, andatlastat the Convention of London held in 1818, the forty-ninth parallel of north latitude was decided upon. Monuments were set up at even mile intervals, the British placing one between every two of ours. These extended from the Lake of the Woods to the Bocky Mountains. The most of these monuments, which num ber 388 in all are of iron. It was found that the most solid wooden posts were not proof against tbe ravages of the Indians, prairie fires and the weather, so 'that nothing but iron wonld do. These pillars are hollow iron castings fitted over solid cedar posts and well bolted through, and are sunk four feet in the ground. They are eight feet high eight inches square at the base and four at the top, and upon opposite sides facing north and south are the inscriptions cast in letters two inches high: "Conven tion of London"and "October 20, 1818." The pillars weigh 285 pounds each and were made at Detroit, Mich. THE XOUNG MAN'S LATEST. The Picture of Ills Fiancee no Longer In Ills Apartments. jfewYorkSnn.3 "It is no longer good form for a young man to have a picture of his financee visible anywhere about bin bachelor apartments," said a jeweler yesterday. "He has one, bless your soul, yes, but it isn't a big Imperial, nor even a cabinet or card. See here," and' the dealer took from a blue velvet box a tiny head of a beautiful girl set in an open case of gold. The photo graph was on porcelain, and Was exquisitely tinted with the brown hair and shell pink coloring Of the original. The case was about as large as a silver 50-cent piece, and was beautifully engraved and suspended from a short gold chain. "There' ssid the jeweler complacently, as he laid the dainty piece of sentiment back in its case, "that's going to make one young man very happy." "And where is he going to carry it?" "In a chamois pocket set for that yery purpose on the inside of his Test" IKE AND HIS MOTHER Safely Delivered Upon Terra Firma in tbe Sugar Country, MRS. PAETIHGTON EECUPERATIHG, Her Profuse Expressions of Gratitude to Captain Davit. TROUBLE OYER THE TROPICAL DIET rwsxTTEK ron tux dispatch. l CHAPTER V. The passengers were on deck bright and early next morning, aroused by a sonorous gun, which "made the welcome ring," as Mrs. Partington said. The Seven Pollies was anchored at the mouth of a turbid river, which emptied into a turbid sea, with a grim fort on one side and a man-of-war on tbe other, both under the English flag. On the left, beyond the fort, was the picturesque town of Leguan, nestling amid an environment of green, above which tow ered the gigantic cabbage palm; on the right, as far as the eye could see, a border of uninterrupted green, pierced here and there by tall chimneys, from which a dense smoke arose, immediately borne away by the fresh trade winds. These chimneys de noted the sugar plantations, Leguan being a great sugar raising port The air was bland and humid, the song of birds, min gled with the human voice, came across the water, flags were raised on the many ships in port, showing their several nationalities, which floated gaily out to the breeze, and the scene was one of perfect loveliness. "This seems to me like an earthly para dox !" said Mrs Partington, her eyes drink ing in the beautiful surroundings. "That isn't so much like Paradise, though," said the " Donnerblatt " man, pointing to some naked black men and boys, in the shadow of the fort, fishing for shrimps. Mrs. Partington's Curiosity. With the delicacy which distinguished her, she would not see the spectacle so for biddingly introduced, but turned to the mate, who was braiding up some halyards, and asked him what those tall red birds npon the beach were just beyond the fort "They are flamingoes, auntie," he said, "well enough to look at, but not much for a pot-pie." At this moment they gathered up their legs all the baggage they had and flew away down the coast, to the admiration of Ike, who watched them from the top of the roundhouse and wished he had a gun, always an impulse with a Yankee, young or old. THE SAD PARTING. Si, the mate, had made arrangements to take Mrs. Partington and Ike ashore in tbe brig s b)at, after be had secured for her ac commodations in the town, and, therefore, the farewells with ber fellow passengers were brief, as the harbor boat came along side to take them on shore, and, with a few hurried words and shaking of hands, they parted, Mrs. Partington leaning over tbe railing, saying: "Heaven bless youl May your lortune ever De surreptitious, and profligacy attend your efforts. She gave them the "tribute of a tear" or two as she went down below and awaited the coming of Si and Ike, who had gone ashore in the boat The captain came down in the meantime, and for the first time she spoke to him about payment for her voyage. It had all been arranged by Mr. Pelton, the mate, he told her, and she might make her self easy about it "But I must," said she, "identify it, for, though I am not rich, I am not a town porpoise, and am able to meet all acquire ments." He again told her that he would settle it with the mate, and let her know later, and as they were about to separate he would say that her company during the voyage had mitigated its roughness and lightened its progress, for which he, Bob Davit, captain of the Seven Pollies, felt truly grateful. "What you say," said she, "is a great affectation to me, as I always wish to make people agreeable, and to know that I suc ceed makes it more objectionable. I shall never remember your kindness without thinking of it," shaking his hand warmly, her face aglow with happiness. OFF FOR THE LAND. The captain, evidently affected, and laugh ing heartily, wenton deck, Irom whence, soon after the mate and Ike returned, the trunk and bundles were removed to the boat After a kind word to the sailors, who had come aft The Captain Was Affected. and a benediction to the cook, Mrs. Parting ton was helped down the side of the vessel. Ike had remained stealthily behind, to borrow a potato from the cook to give to the black horse as a parting present, nnd then, jumping in with the rest, the boat was pushed off, the crew gave three cheers, Mrs. Partington waving a long-bandied response, and they were soon at the quay. "Now where are we to go?" said Mrs. Partington, gazing about her, "with no hackmen round to frustrate one's intentions, and Ifeel like astray cat in a strange garret Have you secured a lodgment, Si?" He answered her that it was all right, and that a short walk would bring them to their destination, but advised her to hang ber thick shawl on her arm, as it was very like ly to be pretty warm. The walk was very interesting to Mrs. Partington. She saw, as she went, stores beneath stately dwelling houses, and cottages with verandas and heavy blinds, embowered amid trees, with luscious oranges pendent from branches overhanging the public ways, canals run ning through the streets crossed by bridges at every turn, and people with umbrellas over their heads, sauntering indifferently along. The oranges were a sore temptation to Ike, who wished to climb a tree to get some, but tbe intervening fences were high, and watch dogs seen sleeping in the sun 1 served to check the impulse. They soon arrived at a pleasant little ivy covered wooden cottage, with a brick base ment beneath it, and Si informed-Mrs. Part ington thatt this was the place he had secured for her habitation. It was kept, he said, by a mother and her daughter, and was in every way desirable. He went up some steps, as he spoke, and rapped at the door,there being no bell. " We wish to see Madam Halsford," said he, as a bright mulatto girl opened the door. "Come in, Massa," she replied, "Missis spects you." HEB FBTtTBE QUARTERS. The door opened into the mala room, or hall, furniture limited, but good, sofa, side board, cane seat American chairs, American cane-seat rocker, marble water-shelf otto man, the walls and ceiling uulatheJ and painted blue, pretty curtains, but no carpet. This Mrs. Partington noted as she scanned the premises. A door opened in one comer of the room and a very pleasant looking lady entered, accompanied by her daughter. The mate rose to meet her. "This is Mrs. Halsford, auntie," said he, "and, Mrs. Halsford, this is Mrs. Parting ton and her boy Ike, whom you saw this morning." They shook hands warmly. !WL. The Introduction Business. "And this," said Mrs. Halsford, "Is my daughter Mary." "Well, since this introduction business is settled," said the mate, "I'll leave all the rest to you and go down to the Seven Pollies. Goodby, auntie, I'll come to see you before we sail. Goodby, mem and miss. Ike, be have yourself" and he left Mrs; Partington seated herself in the American rocker and commenced conversa tion with the ladies as if she had alwavs been acquainted with them, and Ike had strayed to a window overlooking a back yard, where there was a little naked black lellow reveling in a pile of ashes from the cookhouse near by, and he wondered whether the little blackie were not India rubber, and whether a pin stuck into him would hurt him auy, making up his mind to try at the first opportunity. "And this is a tropical climax," said Mrs. Partington, "and that I should have set my foot in it was bevond my expectoration. I fancy I feel its solitary affectation already, and think that its mellifluous airs must be infections to those who are suffering from convalescence. "You are ill, are you not?" said Mrs. Halsford, "or so I understood the gentleman to say who came with you." HAD TO HUH FOE HEB LIFE. "Yes, indeed," replied Mrs. Partington, "and with all the troubles that have befell me, I am far from well myself; my constitu tion and by-laws are all exasperated, and I had to run for my life." Unbounded sympathy was expressed for the dame by Mrs. Halsford and daughter, and then a general conversation ensued re lating to their respective countries and mat ters material and immaterial were discussed, when a black girl came in at the door. "Lunch ready, Missis," said she. They passed into anotherapartment, where a repletion of cold ham, cassava bread, pep per pot and pickles awaited them, with a cup of tea in prospect, but with an attempt at the ham, a nibble at the bread, as dry as bran, and a taste of the condiments, as hot as fire, Mrs. Partington desisted, declaring that her appetite was not equal tothe "emulgency." Ike's appetite, likewise, seemed to have left him, but some delicious fruit restored it and with a cup ot tea, both were refreshed. The staple dish at the succeeding dinner, at 5 o'clock, was salt fish and boiled plan tain, served with drawn butter, which hun ger rendered palatable, but she averred quite candidly, that the "cosmetics" were not quite suited to her likeness. She fonnd. subsequently, that the breakfast was like the dmner.save that, instead of salt fish and plantain, the order was changed to plan tain and salt fish. This was added to, how ever, in many ways; tempting dishes of crab fat, goat steak, i'oofoo soup, and fried yellow plantain lent variety, and soon, cus tom made even pepper pot desirable. A STOET VEEY HANDY. They had a frequent visitor, a handsome The Handsome Scotchman. young Scotchman, who was paying attention to the daughter, who took quite a liking to Mrs. Partington, having heard of ber at home, where her remarks were often quoted, and she expressed her opinion of him as being a very "ostensible young man." He ran a store a little down the street, in partnership with a man named Burr, under the title of "Trimble & Burr." It was soon discovered that a change at the cottage was imminent, and that the base ment was to be transferred into a store, to which the firm was to move, as soon as preparation could be made. Accordingly, in a few days came men and Inmber, and work was commenced in fitting up the place, which was soon accomplished, and the whole stock of trade moved in. M r. Trim ble came to board with the family, of which he was so soon to become a member. In the meantime the Seven Pollies had sailed. Si Pelton having called several times upon bis relative abd made arrange ments for tbe continuance at the cottage, where she was abundantly contented, even swallowing the "cosmetics" as if she were a native, to the vast benefit of her health. "Tell them at home," she said to Si as he came to bid her goodby, "tell them that I have recoopered my cistern and amenjoying myself lugubriouslv, while Isaac is hilari ous." " B. P. Shillabes. WOMAN AGAINST Y0HAN. Became n Brilliant lady Powdered Another Wouldn't hpcnk to Her. New York Son.i A group of prominent women were dis cussing a noted business woman who, by dint of tremendous will force and great per severance, has surmounted obstacfes at which the ordinary woman would turn faint "A remarkable woman," said one. "She de serves her success." "What a brilliant conversationalist!" said another. "I love to hear htr talk." "Her generosity is unbounded," said a third. "Do you not admire her?" The woman to whom this question was addressed, tossed her bead and contemptuously replied: "I do not know her. She powders, and as I make it a rule never to speak to a woman who does that, I have no opportunity lor observ ing these remarkable traits over which you seem so enthusiastic." A silence Jell. Then one bolder than tbe rest said: "That is the woman ofit Eancv a man refusing to know a brilliant, eeninf, successful man because he waxed his nius tachel" OIL OF PEPPERMINT. Sine-Tenths of It Comes From a Sin gle County in ,New Torlr. THE DISCOVER! OF A PEDDLER. Bow the Plant Is Now Cnltiyated and th.9 Essence Obtained. ADULTERATION OF BABI'S MEDICINE ICOniHSPOKDESCE or tits SISPATCH.l Eochesteb, N. Y., January 25. When it is said that nine-tenths of all the oil of peppermint used in the world comes from one little county in New York State, it seems quite improbable, yet such is a fact, and, at that, the best quality only. But a short dis tance east of this city is located Lyons, the county seat of Wayne county, whose name comes from the Bevolutionaryhero, General Anthony Wayne, who, by his bustle, earned the soubriquet of "Mad Anthony." It Is a small county, but is one of the leading in point ot agriculture in the great Empire State. One branch of agriculture is that of raising peppermint About half a century ago, a Yankee ped ler named Burnett included in his rounda the northwestern counties of New York. Burnett hailed from Massachusetts, and be side carrying the usual stock of goods that the peddlers of that day found a ready ami profitable sale for, was always looking oat for a bargain in anything in which he could see the promise of a dollar's profit On ore of his trips into Wayne county, Burnett " discovered a plant which he knew to be peppermint This was quite common in his own State, and the farmers there added a few dollars annually to their returns by dis tilling and selling the oil. Spearmint, or common mint, grew almost everywhere, but peppermint had been found nowhere except in Massachusetts. .Burnett had dealt in the oil among the farmers in bis own State and knew it to be profitable, so he went to gath ering the wild peppermint of Wayne county and distilling oil on his own account THE FARMERS CAUGHT COT. The product he found a ready sale for, and for several reasons he was the only one who thought it profitable to utilize the pepper mint plant of Wayne county. At last tha farmers awoke to the fact that they could make money themselves out of the wild product of the waste places, and began to transfer the slant from its place of sponta neous growth and cultivate it as a regular crop. Under cultivation the plant did well and the farmers distilled a few hundred ponnds of the oil each year, the chief supply in those days coming from China and Japan. In the village of Pheeps, in the adjoining county, Ontario, in 1815, H. G. Hotchkisa kept a country store. In dealing with the farmers he took in trade peppermint oil, and after awhile found that his stock of oil had cost him about $1,000. Being anxious to realize on it, he put the oil into cans, and taking a sample, went to New York. The drue; dealers said the oil was impure and re fused to buy it Mr. Hotchkiss returned home and made up his mind to send the oil to Hamburg, Germany, which was then a great center for tbe safe and distribution of essential oils. He procured some thick old-fashioned, stone ink bottles and put the oil into them, sealed them and put the fol lowing label on each bottle: PEPPERMINT OIL, : From "Wayne County, New York, U. 8. A. z Guaranteed Pure by H. G. Hotchkiss. r He consigned the oil to a firm in Ham burs', naming the sum he should receive for it, if it was accepted. Nothing was heard of it for a long time. Finally be received a dratt for the sum he demanded, with an order of another consignment of the oil. This was the beginning of an entirely new branch of agriculture not only in this county, but in the world. Mr. Hotchkiss gave up his store and went into the business of growing and distilling peppermint oil on an extensive scale, and the farmers followed his example. Over 150,000 pounds of the oil is now distilled in Wayne county each, year, in favorable seasons. The crop is one " that returns a fancy profit to the farmer, who never gets below 52 a pound for his oil, and from that price to $4 and $5. Twenty-fiva pounds of oil to the acre is the lowest aver age of the crop, and frequently it is double that WEEDS ABE TROUBLESOME. The cultivation of pepperment is simple. Great care is required, however, for weeds grow fast among it The ubiquitous daisy rears its dainty blossoms among the pepper mint rows, as much at home as it is in tha meadows, and the a:sthetie golden rod en riches the mint borders with its colors. While the daisy and golden rod are indis pensable to a lady's corsage, their expressed oil, mingling with the pungent juice of the peppeimint, does not add to the efficacy of the latter in curing baby's stomach ache. The rag weed is a menace to the peppermint fields and to the purity of the product It looks something like lettuce and yields an, abundance of hitter and pungent oil. In sects do not interfere with tbe mint, as with most eveiy other known product of mother earth, and tbe great care is to keep the crops free from weeds. Two crops of peppermint are raised on a field. The sets, or parts of old plants, aro planted in April and May, in rows two feet apart They grow to the 'height of two feet, If the leaf is pressed the odor is very profuse. The gathering season is in August, and the plants are cut close to the roots with a scythe. They are cured by wilting in the sun like hay tor abont 12 hours, tha oil being expressed more freely then than if fresh. From the roots the next year's crop springs. PROCESS OF DISTIIIATIOS'. The oil is distilled in an easy way. Tha still is a vat with heavy staves hooped with iron, and is about 4 feet high and 6 in diameter. The mint is packed into the still by treading. When the vat is full it is cov ered air-tight and steam is forced in by a pipe in the bottom of the vat The steam volatilizes the oil or the mint, and its vapor is condensed in a worm, as in ordinary stills. The mixed oil and water is collected in a re ceiver, and is separated by specific gravity. Some farmers distill their own oil, but there are 100 regular distillers in the county. They toll the crop the same as a miller does theCfarmer's grain for grinding. Tha waste from the vats is fed to the cattle. Wayne county is practically the only peppermint growing district in the world, and nine-tenths of the world's supply is from there. St. Joseph's county, Michigan, is the only other place where the plant iss grown and distilled. Wayne county oil is worth about 50 cents a pound more than any other. Hotchkiss, the father of the culture, handles nearly all the oil in the country, and still packs it in the sirae style bottles in which he made his original shipment to Germany, 45 years azo. Wayne county oil (nfl Tfnstn thi mflflrot nnrp hut 13 adnltp ated with Japanese menthol. The whole-i saler makes two pounds from a pound of pure oil, and the retailers about six pounds. The soil in Wavne county is warm and rich and the climate mild. The crop is seldom affected by frost but much wet weather is injurious to it The roots are sub ject to winter killing. Besides peppermint, the cultivation of spearmint, pennyroyal, wormwood and tansy is made a specialty, the oils of which have just as high standing in the market as does the celebrated Wayne, county peppermint. Abthuk Wiet. , Ir In't everTbody who can kfpp a hotel sncccsfnlly. Jlaitliew 4 Pieron are tho popular proprietor t the Stiirtcrant House, ISroirtway and TTrenM-nlnth 'rcct, :ewYoik. r Strangers ate made to leel thoroughly at lioma, , Bfsa,J. & E&
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers