THE PITTSBURG - -DISPATCH, SUNDAY, JANUARY 26, 1890.-
20
pa iftJfyWlHS World
ORIGIN OP FASHIONS.
Cha Rise and Fall of Governments Has Had
Hack to do With It, and Princesses and
Actresses More Common Sense Predom
inates Mow.
1WBITTIX FOB THB DISPATCH.
WHERE the fatn.
ions come from is as
much a matter of
query as where the
pins go. I think it
is not generally
known how much
the rise and fall of
Governments have
had to do with es
tablishing certain
and popular fash
ions. It is chron
icled that d urine the
French Revolution
everything pertain
ing to monarchical styles was abolished,
and later came the craze for Republican
simplicity, which, under the Directory, be
came greatly modified, and that when Na
poleon invested himself with the imperial
purple, the court ladies renounced the inex
pensive (?) attire, and blossomed out in
those graceful creations known as Empire,
Josephine and Recamier toilets, which the
wheels of time have so lately bronght round
a Sain for our inspection and wise adoption,
'since they are more or less becoming to
every style.
How frequently it happens, and how pain
ful the observation, that when one of ocr
beauties adopts a style particularly suited to
her, her caprice is at once recklessly and,
alasl lavishly apiiropriated by othersisters,
to whom the gods were less kind in their
distribution of flesh and blood favors and
the result is a caricature. This need never
happen. Fashions there are in plenty, 'and
suitable to every style of perfection and im
perfection of faeeand figure. I do not re
member a time when there was so much lati
tude in dress allowable as during the pres
ent season; and it is a pleasure to say, I
think, our women are becoming too pro
gressive in matters of dress to abjectly fol
low a mode because someone else finds it be
coming. TO niDE PERSONAL DEFECTS.
Time was when women dressed as nearly
alike as was possible, blindly following a
leader, with no consideration for length,
breadth or thickness. So that when Queen
"Victoria adopted crinoline, straightway the
thick the thin, the tall and the short, rushed
to crinoline, and with what shocking effect!
Nor is this the only style inaugurated to
hide a personal defect. Very many of
fashion's vagaries can be accounted for in
this way. "We are told the handkerchief
would have remained in our pockets to be
used only in strictest privacy, had it not
been for the catarrhal ailment of a quaen ;
and that we are indebted to an English
sovereign, who bad scrofula on ber neck,
for the ruff or ruch.
But probably more of our fashions have
had their origin before the footlights than
upon the throne, actresses and prima
donnas having always been prominent in
introducing new fashions. Sara Bernhardt
has been called the patron saint of thin
women, since by making a study of her
physical defects she has help d us discover
our own, and more or less adopt her artistic
and effective remedies.
To the erratic Sara we mu t be grateful
for most of the loose and nnfett'ed in styles
the Fedora vest, mother hubbard wraps,
wrinkled gloves, Grecian draperies, flowing
scarfs, etc but 1 think Madam Bernhardt,
with all her love of the "loose" drapery,
must be self-satisfied with not having intro
ducing a thing so unbecoming and deserved
ly unpopular as the Hading veil, which, by
the way, "pretty Jane" declines the honor
of having created.
THE PBEJTCESS OF "WALES.
To the charming Princess of Wales, I
think, we are indebted for more that is sen
sible as well as beautiful, than to any other
person. In the styles of her adoption we
have an example of the ladylike all
absence of the "flash" or vulgar street dis-
Jilay, denoted by loud bonnets, glittering
ewels and elaborate dresses and wraps.
(Pittsburg women who do their own market
ing please take notice.") I am under the im
pression it was the Princess of "Wales who
introduced thatqueen of street and traveling
gowns the tailor-made which simplicity
of costume it is gratifying to notice remains
in poDular favor.
In the dresses of the present season we no
tice no senseless "gimcracks" at the expense
of yards of material; no over-done draperies,
but everything for out-of-door wear has an
air of cultured simplicity. The untidy long
skirt, which was heralded so long ahead of
the season, must have been still-born, since
it has not been publicly paraded. That bug
bear to the masculine mind, the ''horrid
bustle," is reduced almost to normal lines;
sleeves are cut with a view to free circula
tion of the blood, thereby giving the men a
monopoly of red noses; draperies were never
more literally within the confines of good
taste; lacing is deemed too vulgar for men
tion and, in short, comfort seems to be, at
last, as largely studied as effect.
BAB SULIiETEBY SELECTIONS.
I think more mistakes are made in the
selection of suitable and becominc millinery
than in matters of dress. There is something
of an excuse for this the present season since
there never was less new and "taking" in
this line on the market It is supposable
that the acme of perfection is thought to
have been reached, since we have this season
been given a rehash of last summer's styles,
which include the capote, the turban, the
Alpine and the Gainsborough, any one of
which may be rendered almost new in style,
and certainly becoming in appearance, by
the placing of decorations adjusted to suit
the shape of the wearer's face.
"Why so many of us continue to go
masquerading about in a bonnet or hat,
which by virtue of the eternal fitness of the
thing rightly belongs to another, is a
mystery. "Why will the thin and wrinkled
face continue to play hide and seek under
the wide spreading Gainsborough, and the
full round face keep on smiling in blissful
unconsciousness of the who-killed-cock-robin
air, the turban or capote, several
times too small for her head, has given
her.
Surely we could avoid much of this
freakish appearance by a little timely
thought ana the cultivation of,
Good sense which only is tbe gift of Heaven,
And though no science is worth the other
seven.
Meg McGiittt.
A SOCIETY GIRL REBUKED.
She Had All Day to Dress, bat Kept Her
Escort Waiting.
New York Sun. 3
A severe but well-merited rebuke was
administered not long ago to a society girl
by a young man who has the courage of very
creditable convictions upon a certain com
mon lack of the nicest courtesy among
young women who are really very well bred,
V 4
and who would not offend for the world i
they stopped to think. He told the story
himself as follows:
"During one of my busiest weeks I in
vited a young woman to go with me to the
theater on a certain first night. "When the
evening came I reached her home shortly
before 8 o'clock. I waited in the reception
room for some time. Then the mamma
appeared. We chatted for a quarter of an
hour longer. Still no signs of the young
woman. I looked at my watch; it was just
time for the curtain to rise at the theater. I
particularly wanted to see the opening of
the play.
"Then I rose and took one of my checks
from my pocket. 'Madam,' I said to the
mother, 'here is the check for Miss D 's
chair and the carriage is at the door. "Will
you be kind enough to ask her to come when
it suits her best. For myself, I want to see
the opening of the play.' And I walked
out,"
"And what did the young woman do?"
asked three breathless listeners all at once.
"She came in the course of half an hour.
She had good sense enough to take the re
bake in the right way. She knew she de
served it"
"Oh, but I would never have forgiven
you!" sighed the chorus.
A WEAP FOR WINTER.
Novelty From Farls Suitable to the Florida
and Georgia Resorts.
"Tout Paris" is pluming its wing for
flight southward. Every day we hear of a
new flock of swallows, French, English and
American, starting southward, bound for
the Biviera and Algiers. This season North
Africa and Egypt seem to be disputing with
the south of France and Italy, especially
with Americans, who are such indefatigable
travelers and very fond of the Orient One
sees in all the London shops novelties pre
pared for these tropical resorts. Hats are
specially made for the sunny winters of
Nice, and gowns and wraps for the half-
tropical weather of Algiers. The same ideas
will hold good for Florida and the Georgia
resorts, where the climate is almost identical
with that of the Biviera.
Bedfern, of Paris, has a handsome estab
lishment in the Bue de Bivoli, and is con
nected with the London and New York
houses, but has the advantage of a little
Parisian chic in his designs. He has de
signed a number of stylish wraps for wear
iu Southern climates. The one given in the
sketch is called the "Algerian wrap," and
has been specially made for the Grand
Duchess Vladimir of Bussia, who is now at
Cannes. This cloak is to be worn in the
carriage or promenade when a slight protec
tion against wind and sun is required. The
wrap is of white cloth, with an underbody
fitted like a long cloak without sleeves, and
coming to the hem of the dress. This under
cloak is bound with flat gold braid down
the front and around the bottom. Over this
is worn a loose cloak, which hangs loosely
around the figure, reaching also to the bot
tom of the skirt The neck has a broad
collar of skunk fur, which extends down
both sides of the front The back of the
loose cloak is held in by a gold belt, as
shown in the sketch, and the end of the
front is thrown over the shoulder in Spanish
fashion.
HATS AND BONNETS.
The Pretty Pieces the London Shops Are
Turning Oat.
London is out with anew hat and a
new bonnet The bonnet is of black velvet
and jet, with amber strings and an aigrette
of tbe same shade. It is ladylike
and quiet and suitable for a
middle aged matron. The hat
is of brown velvet, with ribbon bows and a
feather shaded from brown to pale blue.
Some pretty hats making for London brides
maids are of white cloth nearly hidden by
white feathers. The broad brim of each
hat is bordered with an ostrich feather, and
a shorter feather trims the crown. A
couple of pink silk rosettes give the touch of
color required. A bonnet of black velvet
with a bunch of snowdrops and violets is
particularly becoming; so is a littleParisian
bonnet of terra velvet, trimmed with black
lace and a iet ornament in front Lace is
rarely seen on any other than French bon-1
ft . SSlSa
Til fM
iVI
The Algerian Wrap.
. Hx f - Lm
isr mjs,
The Latest in London.
nets at this season. A smart-looking toque
of green velvet is trimmed with white cloth
and bordered with beaver. Two small green
birds set off the front
THE NEWEST FANCI ARTICLES.
Ordinary Baskets Trimmed Up Into Articles
of Bare Deantr.
The newest fancy articles that have been
devised this season and collected by the
best shops, merely ring the changes on
trimmed and beautified baskets and shapes
covered with printed Indian or pongee silk,
which is very little inore costly than cre
tonne and scarcely prettier, except in its
colorings, which are softer. Our illustra
tion No. 1 shows one of these made over a
basket, a common little wicker thing pretty
much the shape of a red flowerpot
The first proceeding is to line the basket
by putting a round of cardboard at
the bottom inside, covering it with copper
colored silk, and sewing to it on the wrong
side a piece ot the silk, which will be lull
where sewn on, but nearly plain at the
mouth of the basket, and deep enough to
turn over the top of it and be tacked down.
Now for the outer covering. First, cut two
pieces of stout cardboard either into a round
or octagonal shape, according to the make
of the basket, and just large enough for it
to stand on. Cover each with a suitable
sateen, or any cretonne, or even glazed
lining, that may be at hand; sew lightly to
gether, and then take your printed pongee,
with a maize or straw colored ground, and
a copper-colored floral pattern on it Sew it to
the rounds of cardboard.put the basket inside,
and with a few small but strong silken
stitches attach the outer covering to the
covered rim of the basket Hem the top of
the silk, making a running about half an
inch up tbe hem, so as to allow of a ribbon
or cord being put in to draw it up; add rib
bons to taste (which are very cheap), and in
order to make the article look smart on a
bazaar stall, or as a present, put a roll of
stiff paper inside, so that the upper part
may not "flop."
REVIVAL OF LACE DARNING.
A Needlo Art Popular Half a Century Ago
Popular Again.
Philadelphia Becord.
There has been during the season a de
cided revival of the darned lace of our
grandmothers, over which Mrs. "Wheeler,
of the Society of Decorative Art, is en
thusiastic Fifty years ago darning lace
was a fashionable accomplishment, and the
designs were then as now copied from
Spanish laces. Brussels net is usedjas the
foundation upon which the designs are first
outlined with lustrous linen floss, and the
fabric of the lace changed within these out
lines by lancy lace stitches. Silk floss is
also used, and makes handsomer work than
linen. The effect is singularly light and
fleecy, and the revival has doubtless come
to stay.
The darned lace is useful in a great vari
ety ot ways, bet is especially applicable to
the ornamentation of woman's dress, where
it appears in the shape of overdresses, slips,
flounces and deep borders. One artistic
young woman has had her wedding veil
darned with white floss in a chrysanthemum
design.
Darned lace may also be applied to lamp
shades and ornamental screens. In this sort
of work the introduction of a color would
be admirable.
Another use to which darned work may be
put is in the ornamentation of various kinds
of linen. A screen recently shown by the
Decorative Art Society was threefold, the
design being executed upon Persian linen,
the silks employed being in the palest shades
of blue, pink and yellow most harmon
iously blended. Th'e background was also
darned with salmon pink, the effect of the
mass of needlework being extremely rich.
Young women with plenty of leisure are
applying darned work to their woolen
dresses, some of which are thus made very
elaborate looking. The fabric should be
loosely woven, and, after the design is
stamped, outlined with coarse twisted silk.
The design was then filled in with darning
stitches with filo floss. Some of the loosely
woven nun's veilings for early spring wear
are being elaborately embroidered in the
same fashion, using fine crewel in place of
silk. From these and other signs il would
appear that darned work is bound in any
case to last the year through, even if put to
such ordinary uses.
A Novel Beit.
Novel belt in dark velvet, with the two
ends crossed in front, and finished off in
front with claws in gold and diamonds.
The Queen, January 4.
Kenson for Joining Chores.
Barlinftton Free Press.
"We cannot always approve the arguments
which are used to get people to join the
church. For instance, here is one we heard
the other day: "Every unmarried man
ought to join the church, for there is no tell
ing how soon he will want the church to
join him."
He Draws It Fine
Harpers Younjr People.
"Willie is a very observant youth. He
seemed to prefer smaller boys for compan
ions, and when asked why, replied: "Well,
I notice the bigger boys play with me, but I
don't play with them. I want somebody I
can play with." There is certainly a very
fine distinction here.
Him
STORIES OF GHOSTS.
Elaborate Collection of the Boston
Psychical' Society.
EXPERIMENTING IN HYPNOTISM,
One of the Amusing Franks of Actors
Aldricu and Thome.
EXERCISES IN MEMORI OF BEOWNING
1COBBXSP02TPENCI OT THX DISPATCH. I
Boston, January 25. The first report of
the American Psychical Society was issued
in Boston five years since, and last week
that body ceased to exist as a separate or
ganization. It will still linger on nomin
ally as a branch of the English society, but
I trust I may be pardoned if I say that it is
hardly likely to effect much in this new
form. If it could not get a grasp upon the
unseen world as an independent society it is
not easy to see how sinking into a semi
dependent arm of the British organization
is likely to aid it. The plain truth is, I
suspect, that funds for continuing the so
ciety are not forthcoming on this side of the
ocean, and this is an effort to have the En
glishmen who are interested in the subject
help out the American branch.
I took the liberty of saying when the work
was organized in this country that the En
glish society was founded with a view to
Droving that all the ghost stories were true,
while the American society, on the contra
ry, was established to prove that they were
all false. This was as accurate as general
troths ever are; but those who had been
skeptics from the first dropped out one by
one, so that in the end the activity was con
fined pretty exclusively to those who in
their heart of hearts believed at least that
there are things in heaven and earth un
dreamed of in philosophy. They imported
as secretary a member of the English body,
and they have collected a vast deal of ma
terial ot which a skeptical outsider can see
no earthly or unearthly value, and for
aught I know to the contrary, the members
may pass uncounted hours brooding over
this accumulation of matter.
The only amusing thing about this is that
they have got together a lot of tales of the
supernatural, or what passes as such, which
it would be worth tbe while of some enter
prising publisher to secure and publish.
They are seldom Authenticated, of course;
and when they are, the authentification is
not infrequently more doubtful than its ab
sence would be; but they are often very en
tertaining, and in an age so fond of stories
of this sort as is the present they might be
made to yield money enough, if properly
handled, to set the impoverished Psychical
Society upon its shaky pins once more.
FOOLING "WITH HYPNOTISM.
The thing which is being pushed by some
of the physicians who are members of the
i-.l 1 r ml. 1 1
BUCiefcy is uvpuuusuj. xunc uas ueeu suiub
attempt to hypnotize patients, but thus far
the success attending the experiment has not
been brilliant.
Dr. Blank puts me in a chair," one of
the subjects said to me, "and then he sits
down before me and says: 'Now look at me
for three-quarters of an hour.' So I try not
to laugh, and look at him for 15 minutes,
and then he tells me to shut my eyes, and
he rests a little while, and then I look at
him for 15 minutes more, and sometimes he
makes passes over me, and then he says:
'You cannot open your eyes.' And I say:
'Yes, I can'; and I do; and then he says I
take the matter too flippantly." ,
It seems not impossible that she does, but
those subjects with whom experiment has
been more successful are rather more than
suspected of having decided to humbug the
doctors. To one patient who is troubled
with nervous exhaustion, loss of appetite
and with sleeplessness the doctor said, after
having apparently hypnotized her: "When
you wake you will be hungry and sleepy."
He repeated this several times, until the
subject, seemingl r tired of it for the mo
ment, confused into supposing that he
wished a reply, opened her eves and an
swered; "Why, no, I shan't, either."
The experiment was naturally not consid
ered a success in this instance.
THE BBOTVNING KEMOBIAX SEBVICE.
The event ot the week in literary circles
has been the Browning memorial services
held in King's Chapel on Tuesday alter
noon. The exercises were held under the
auspices of the Browning Club, of which
Colonel Thomas Wentworth Higginson is
President, and the opening address was
made by that gentleman. There were sev
eral speakers, but the event of the day was
the eloquent address by Prof. C. Carroll
Everett of Harvard. The music was made
up of elegiac compositions and selections
from songs from Browning's works. The
lyric3 of Browning do not as a rule lend
themselves to music with sufficient flexibil
ity, but the selection was so well made by
llr. B. J. Lang, who had this portion of the
programme in charge, that this defect was
not apparent
King's Chapel is coming to be associated
in the minds of many with those solemn oc
casions when the last rites of respect are
paid to the dead who have in lire been in
one way or another illustrious; and it is a
purpose to which it is peculiarly adapted.
The solemn and antiquated dignity of its
interior, the associations which cluster so
thickly here and the dimness of tbe place
combine to harmonize with the feelings of
those who come together to mourn for the
dead; and on Tuesday this fact added to the
feeling natural in a memorial service for
one who has been honored, a sentiment of
tender and, as it were, personal regret which
was very touching.
PBAISES FOB CABLYLE.
Another dead author is this week honored
in a different way here. We have with us
always, like the poor in scripture, some
Englishman or other who lectures. In the
present instance the lecturer is Mr. Bobert
Niven, of London, who is really an admira
ble man, albeit the fact that he is endeavor
ing to lead us up to a higher admiration of
Carlyle might throw serious doubts upon
that statement. He speaks under the
auspices of the Bev. Phillips Brooks,
James Bussell Lowell, the Bev. Ed
ward Hale and so on; so
that it may be seen that he
does not lack backers. For the rest he is an
extraordinarily nervous and demonstrative
bodj.rather more like a Frenchman than an
Englishman, and, of course, he is being
lionized. I have nothing to say of his ad
dress, for I hate Carlyle, and I detest
lectures, so that I never willingly expose
myself to a dose of either.
The New Yorkers are taking on airs over
the Ladies' Athletic Club and making a
good deal of a point of its being the first of
its kind ever established in the country.
Nominally it may be so, but tbe ladies'
gymnasium has been so long a recognized
thing here that the mere difference of name
does not seem to make a novelty nt the
thing. There is, moreover, the ladies'
fencing class, and one would think that
upon the strength of the two together Boston
could hold up her head even though she has
no club for the fair sex, technically called
athletic
A LONG-NAMED SOCIETY.
It should be considered, moreover, that
there is the Massachusetts Society for the
Universal Education of Women which held
its annual meeting this week, and what is a
mere worldly athletic club beside a length
of name like that? I am so much under a
cloud with the women's rights advocates
because I venture to believe that it would
not be an advantage to them or the country
if women, were allowed to vote, that it is
with fear and trembling I mention this
long-named society, since I cannot but
think iU deliberations are very droll. The
members take it so seriously, and they
listen with faces of so much primness and
carefully simulated delight to papers upon
"Educational Progress" and the like in
which woman is never mentioned without a
Yery large and very black capital, that it
seems unfeeling to do otherwise than take
them seriously also if only one could but
do HI
Apropos of the fact that a recent play pro
duced h'ere was so bad that the actors did
not hesitate to guy it as they played, one of
the cleverest stage managers in Boston told
this story the other evening, remarking that
it had never been in print: Some years since
Mr. Charles Thome and Mr. Louis Aldrich
were in the stock company of the Boston
Theater. It was then the custom of the
management to send the company out upon
the road, as the phrase goes, on Saturday
nights, replacing them by some transient
show. On these provincial excursions it was
hardly to be expected that the actors would
do their best, and as a matter of fact they
were often wildly irregular in their acting,
Aldrich and Thome being especially famous
for either guying each other or getting up
jests.
A PAIR 07 EUSSET BOOTS.
On one occasion the company played the
"Tour de Nesle" at some suburban place, I
think at Lynn, althouzh as that town has so
recently been half destroyed by fire I am
not willing to put the responsibility upon
it without being more certain. As he was
going upon the stage for the first time that
evening xnorne cnancea to see a pair or rus
set boots which were not in use Quietly
taking them in his hand he walked upon the
stage and deposited them upon the table.
Aldrich, who scented a jest at once,
was on at the time but had his exit first.
When he went off he calmly took the russet
boots away with him. When he had occa
sion to come back again in a moment, he
brought them back and set them in a chair.
Thorne took them out with him; and the
next one who came upon the scene made bis
appearance with the boots in his hand. It
was the russet boots, and always the russet
boots throughout the entire play. They
were taken on and carried off with perfect
gravity, until it is to be feared that the
spectators must have come to the conclusion
that the etiquette of the times in which the
scene of the play was laid demanded that a
pair of russet boots should accompany every
appearance of a man of a certain rank.
THE CBITIC CAUGHT ON.
All this was one of those amusingly silly
things which serve admirably to laugh over,
but the sequel was genuinely funny. Some
months after a traveling company came to
Lynn, and once more presented "the "Tour
de Nesle." There was no guying here. It
was a matter of bread and butter with these
players to do well iu the provinces, and
they played their best The next day a
local paper remarked, with some asperify,
that a garbled version of the play had been
given, and that those who had been so for
tunate as to see the Boston Theater Com
pany in the same piece must have noticed
the difference. It would not go into details
at length, as the occasion was hardly worth
it, but It could not refrain from mentioning
that admirable and important business with
the boots, which, for some unaccountable
reason, the present company had seen fit to
omit altogether. What the strolling com
pany thought of this extraordinary notice is
not recorded, but they must have been suffi
ciently puzzled. Ablo Bates.
FEEDS BOTH BODI AMD MIND.
Some of tbe Good Words Spoken for Boot
land's Oatmeal.
Newcastle, Eng., Chronicle.
Oatmeal advocates have to face many buf
fets, and the oft-quoted definition of Dr.
Johnion is pretty sure to be thrown in their
teeth. Tbe reproach is about as groundless
as that which attributes to Scotchmen a lack
of appreciation of the soul of wit. What
ever some may think of it, the simple and
homely fare of the "land of cakes" has
called forth a high testimonial from Mr.
Buskin. "When I lived in Scotland,"
said the famous artist and art critic to a re
cent visitor, "I used to take porridge every
day, and then I was ruddy and robust, but
now you see what a poor, dyspeptic man
your English beef and mutton have made
me." On a late occasion, Dr. Geddes, Prin
cipal ot Aberdeen University, referred to
the success which had attended the students.
from that seat of learning in a competitive
examination, and said the result was not en
tirely due to the teachers, but to the grit of
the granite nnd the stability of the Northern
oatmeal. The wholesome porridge, "chief
o' Scotia's food," as Burns terms it, is evi
dently not a bad thing for either body or
mind.
HE HISSES DAN LAMONT.
Experiences af the Newspaper Reporters
With Ex-President Cleveland.
New York Press.
The newspaper reporters who have had oc
casion recently to call on ex-President
Cleveland to ask him about various matters
in which he has been reported as interested,
tell among themselves some odd stories
about his expressions to them. On several
recent occasions he has been so angry as to
express himself in language that they would
not dare to print because of his violence and
their fear that he would repudiate it after it
got into type. On other occasions he has
asked some one of the reporters with whom
he was better acquainted than others to tell
him what onght to be said. Un one
matter he is said to have asked a
reporter to write out what the lat
ter thought would sound well, and then
authorized its publication. It all goes to
show that he misses Colonel Dan Lamont,
who was his mouthpiece for six years, and
always talked for him to the newspaper
men. I fancy from the number of letters he
has been writing, and which somehow get
into print, that he is missing the little Colo
nel's adroit pen as well as ability to manip
ulate the press gang.
UNCLE SAM'S BORDER LINE.
There Aro 3SS Monument!, (II Itlndo of Iron
and Cedar.
February Wide Awake.
For many years the question of boundary
between the United States and the possessions
of Great Britain was discussed, andatlastat
the Convention of London held in 1818, the
forty-ninth parallel of north latitude was
decided upon. Monuments were set up at
even mile intervals, the British placing one
between every two of ours. These extended
from the Lake of the Woods to the Bocky
Mountains.
The most of these monuments, which num
ber 388 in all are of iron. It was found that
the most solid wooden posts were not proof
against tbe ravages of the Indians, prairie
fires and the weather, so 'that nothing but
iron wonld do. These pillars are hollow
iron castings fitted over solid cedar posts
and well bolted through, and are sunk four
feet in the ground. They are eight feet
high eight inches square at the base and
four at the top, and upon opposite sides
facing north and south are the inscriptions
cast in letters two inches high: "Conven
tion of London"and "October 20, 1818." The
pillars weigh 285 pounds each and were
made at Detroit, Mich.
THE XOUNG MAN'S LATEST.
The Picture of Ills Fiancee no Longer In
Ills Apartments.
jfewYorkSnn.3
"It is no longer good form for a young
man to have a picture of his financee visible
anywhere about bin bachelor apartments,"
said a jeweler yesterday.
"He has one, bless your soul, yes, but it
isn't a big Imperial, nor even a cabinet or
card. See here," and' the dealer took from
a blue velvet box a tiny head of a beautiful
girl set in an open case of gold. The photo
graph was on porcelain, and Was exquisitely
tinted with the brown hair and shell pink
coloring Of the original. The case was
about as large as a silver 50-cent piece, and
was beautifully engraved and suspended
from a short gold chain.
"There' ssid the jeweler complacently,
as he laid the dainty piece of sentiment
back in its case, "that's going to make one
young man very happy."
"And where is he going to carry it?"
"In a chamois pocket set for that yery
purpose on the inside of his Test"
IKE AND HIS MOTHER
Safely Delivered Upon Terra Firma
in tbe Sugar Country,
MRS. PAETIHGTON EECUPERATIHG,
Her Profuse Expressions of Gratitude to
Captain Davit.
TROUBLE OYER THE TROPICAL DIET
rwsxTTEK ron tux dispatch. l
CHAPTER V.
The passengers were on deck bright and
early next morning, aroused by a sonorous
gun, which "made the welcome ring," as
Mrs. Partington said. The Seven Pollies
was anchored at the mouth of a turbid
river, which emptied into a turbid sea,
with a grim fort on one side and a man-of-war
on tbe other, both under the English
flag. On the left, beyond the fort, was the
picturesque town of Leguan, nestling amid
an environment of green, above which tow
ered the gigantic cabbage palm; on the
right, as far as the eye could see, a border
of uninterrupted green, pierced here and
there by tall chimneys, from which a dense
smoke arose, immediately borne away by
the fresh trade winds. These chimneys de
noted the sugar plantations, Leguan being
a great sugar raising port The air was
bland and humid, the song of birds, min
gled with the human voice, came across the
water, flags were raised on the many ships
in port, showing their several nationalities,
which floated gaily out to the breeze, and
the scene was one of perfect loveliness.
"This seems to me like an earthly para
dox !" said Mrs Partington, her eyes drink
ing in the beautiful surroundings.
"That isn't so much like Paradise,
though," said the " Donnerblatt " man,
pointing to some naked black men and boys,
in the shadow of the fort, fishing for shrimps.
Mrs. Partington's Curiosity.
With the delicacy which distinguished
her, she would not see the spectacle so for
biddingly introduced, but turned to the
mate, who was braiding up some halyards,
and asked him what those tall red birds npon
the beach were just beyond the fort
"They are flamingoes, auntie," he said,
"well enough to look at, but not much for a
pot-pie."
At this moment they gathered up their
legs all the baggage they had and flew
away down the coast, to the admiration of
Ike, who watched them from the top of the
roundhouse and wished he had a gun,
always an impulse with a Yankee, young or
old.
THE SAD PARTING.
Si, the mate, had made arrangements to
take Mrs. Partington and Ike ashore in tbe
brig s b)at, after be had secured for her ac
commodations in the town, and, therefore,
the farewells with ber fellow passengers
were brief, as the harbor boat came along
side to take them on shore, and, with a few
hurried words and shaking of hands, they
parted, Mrs. Partington leaning over tbe
railing, saying: "Heaven bless youl May
your lortune ever De surreptitious, and
profligacy attend your efforts.
She gave them the "tribute of a tear" or
two as she went down below and awaited
the coming of Si and Ike, who had gone
ashore in the boat The captain came down
in the meantime, and for the first time she
spoke to him about payment for her voyage.
It had all been arranged by Mr. Pelton, the
mate, he told her, and she might make her
self easy about it
"But I must," said she, "identify it, for,
though I am not rich, I am not a town
porpoise, and am able to meet all acquire
ments." He again told her that he would settle it
with the mate, and let her know later, and
as they were about to separate he would say
that her company during the voyage had
mitigated its roughness and lightened its
progress, for which he, Bob Davit, captain
of the Seven Pollies, felt truly grateful.
"What you say," said she, "is a great
affectation to me, as I always wish to make
people agreeable, and to know that I suc
ceed makes it more objectionable. I shall
never remember your kindness without
thinking of it," shaking his hand warmly,
her face aglow with happiness.
OFF FOR THE LAND.
The captain, evidently affected, and laugh
ing heartily, wenton deck, Irom whence, soon
after the mate and Ike returned, the trunk
and bundles were removed to the boat After
a kind word to the sailors, who had come aft
The Captain Was Affected.
and a benediction to the cook, Mrs. Parting
ton was helped down the side of the vessel.
Ike had remained stealthily behind, to
borrow a potato from the cook to give to the
black horse as a parting present, nnd then,
jumping in with the rest, the boat was
pushed off, the crew gave three cheers, Mrs.
Partington waving a long-bandied response,
and they were soon at the quay.
"Now where are we to go?" said Mrs.
Partington, gazing about her, "with no
hackmen round to frustrate one's intentions,
and Ifeel like astray cat in a strange garret
Have you secured a lodgment, Si?"
He answered her that it was all right, and
that a short walk would bring them to their
destination, but advised her to hang ber
thick shawl on her arm, as it was very like
ly to be pretty warm. The walk was very
interesting to Mrs. Partington. She saw, as
she went, stores beneath stately dwelling
houses, and cottages with verandas and
heavy blinds, embowered amid trees, with
luscious oranges pendent from branches
overhanging the public ways, canals run
ning through the streets crossed by bridges
at every turn, and people with umbrellas
over their heads, sauntering indifferently
along. The oranges were a sore temptation
to Ike, who wished to climb a tree to get
some, but tbe intervening fences were high,
and watch dogs seen sleeping in the sun 1
served to check the impulse.
They soon arrived at a pleasant little ivy
covered wooden cottage, with a brick base
ment beneath it, and Si informed-Mrs. Part
ington thatt this was the place he had secured
for her habitation. It was kept, he said, by
a mother and her daughter, and was in every
way desirable. He went up some steps, as
he spoke, and rapped at the door,there being
no bell.
" We wish to see Madam Halsford," said
he, as a bright mulatto girl opened the door.
"Come in, Massa," she replied, "Missis
spects you."
HEB FBTtTBE QUARTERS.
The door opened into the mala room, or
hall, furniture limited, but good, sofa, side
board, cane seat American chairs, American
cane-seat rocker, marble water-shelf otto
man, the walls and ceiling uulatheJ and
painted blue, pretty curtains, but no carpet.
This Mrs. Partington noted as she scanned
the premises.
A door opened in one comer of the room
and a very pleasant looking lady entered,
accompanied by her daughter. The mate
rose to meet her.
"This is Mrs. Halsford, auntie," said he,
"and, Mrs. Halsford, this is Mrs. Parting
ton and her boy Ike, whom you saw this
morning."
They shook hands warmly.
!WL.
The Introduction Business.
"And this," said Mrs. Halsford, "Is my
daughter Mary."
"Well, since this introduction business is
settled," said the mate, "I'll leave all the
rest to you and go down to the Seven Pollies.
Goodby, auntie, I'll come to see you before
we sail. Goodby, mem and miss. Ike, be
have yourself" and he left
Mrs; Partington seated herself in the
American rocker and commenced conversa
tion with the ladies as if she had alwavs
been acquainted with them, and Ike had
strayed to a window overlooking a back
yard, where there was a little naked black
lellow reveling in a pile of ashes from the
cookhouse near by, and he wondered whether
the little blackie were not India rubber, and
whether a pin stuck into him would hurt
him auy, making up his mind to try at the
first opportunity.
"And this is a tropical climax," said Mrs.
Partington, "and that I should have set my
foot in it was bevond my expectoration. I
fancy I feel its solitary affectation already,
and think that its mellifluous airs must be
infections to those who are suffering from
convalescence.
"You are ill, are you not?" said Mrs.
Halsford, "or so I understood the gentleman
to say who came with you."
HAD TO HUH FOE HEB LIFE.
"Yes, indeed," replied Mrs. Partington,
"and with all the troubles that have befell
me, I am far from well myself; my constitu
tion and by-laws are all exasperated, and I
had to run for my life."
Unbounded sympathy was expressed for
the dame by Mrs. Halsford and daughter,
and then a general conversation ensued re
lating to their respective countries and mat
ters material and immaterial were discussed,
when a black girl came in at the door.
"Lunch ready, Missis," said she.
They passed into anotherapartment, where
a repletion of cold ham, cassava bread, pep
per pot and pickles awaited them, with a
cup of tea in prospect, but with an attempt
at the ham, a nibble at the bread, as dry as
bran, and a taste of the condiments, as hot
as fire, Mrs. Partington desisted, declaring
that her appetite was not equal tothe
"emulgency." Ike's appetite, likewise,
seemed to have left him, but some delicious
fruit restored it and with a cup ot tea, both
were refreshed.
The staple dish at the succeeding dinner,
at 5 o'clock, was salt fish and boiled plan
tain, served with drawn butter, which hun
ger rendered palatable, but she averred
quite candidly, that the "cosmetics" were
not quite suited to her likeness. She fonnd.
subsequently, that the breakfast was like
the dmner.save that, instead of salt fish and
plantain, the order was changed to plan
tain and salt fish. This was added to, how
ever, in many ways; tempting dishes of
crab fat, goat steak, i'oofoo soup, and fried
yellow plantain lent variety, and soon, cus
tom made even pepper pot desirable.
A STOET VEEY HANDY.
They had a frequent visitor, a handsome
The Handsome Scotchman.
young Scotchman, who was paying attention
to the daughter, who took quite a liking to
Mrs. Partington, having heard of ber at
home, where her remarks were often quoted,
and she expressed her opinion of him as
being a very "ostensible young man." He
ran a store a little down the street, in
partnership with a man named Burr, under
the title of "Trimble & Burr."
It was soon discovered that a change at
the cottage was imminent, and that the base
ment was to be transferred into a store, to
which the firm was to move, as soon as
preparation could be made. Accordingly,
in a few days came men and Inmber, and
work was commenced in fitting up the place,
which was soon accomplished, and the
whole stock of trade moved in. M r. Trim
ble came to board with the family, of which
he was so soon to become a member.
In the meantime the Seven Pollies had
sailed. Si Pelton having called several
times upon bis relative abd made arrange
ments for tbe continuance at the cottage,
where she was abundantly contented, even
swallowing the "cosmetics" as if she were a
native, to the vast benefit of her health.
"Tell them at home," she said to Si as he
came to bid her goodby, "tell them that I
have recoopered my cistern and amenjoying
myself lugubriouslv, while Isaac is hilari
ous." " B. P. Shillabes.
WOMAN AGAINST Y0HAN.
Became n Brilliant lady Powdered Another
Wouldn't hpcnk to Her.
New York Son.i
A group of prominent women were dis
cussing a noted business woman who, by
dint of tremendous will force and great per
severance, has surmounted obstacfes at
which the ordinary woman would turn faint
"A remarkable woman," said one. "She de
serves her success."
"What a brilliant conversationalist!" said
another. "I love to hear htr talk."
"Her generosity is unbounded," said a
third.
"Do you not admire her?" The woman to
whom this question was addressed, tossed
her bead and contemptuously replied: "I do
not know her. She powders, and as I make
it a rule never to speak to a woman who
does that, I have no opportunity lor observ
ing these remarkable traits over which you
seem so enthusiastic."
A silence Jell. Then one bolder than tbe
rest said: "That is the woman ofit Eancv
a man refusing to know a brilliant, eeninf,
successful man because he waxed his nius
tachel"
OIL OF PEPPERMINT.
Sine-Tenths of It Comes From a Sin
gle County in ,New Torlr.
THE DISCOVER! OF A PEDDLER.
Bow the Plant Is Now Cnltiyated and th.9
Essence Obtained.
ADULTERATION OF BABI'S MEDICINE
ICOniHSPOKDESCE or tits SISPATCH.l
Eochesteb, N. Y., January 25. When
it is said that nine-tenths of all the oil of
peppermint used in the world comes from one
little county in New York State, it seems
quite improbable, yet such is a fact, and, at
that, the best quality only. But a short dis
tance east of this city is located Lyons, the
county seat of Wayne county, whose name
comes from the Bevolutionaryhero, General
Anthony Wayne, who, by his bustle, earned
the soubriquet of "Mad Anthony." It Is a
small county, but is one of the leading in
point ot agriculture in the great Empire
State. One branch of agriculture is that of
raising peppermint
About half a century ago, a Yankee ped
ler named Burnett included in his rounda
the northwestern counties of New York.
Burnett hailed from Massachusetts, and be
side carrying the usual stock of goods that
the peddlers of that day found a ready ami
profitable sale for, was always looking oat
for a bargain in anything in which he could
see the promise of a dollar's profit On ore
of his trips into Wayne county, Burnett "
discovered a plant which he knew to be
peppermint This was quite common in his
own State, and the farmers there added a
few dollars annually to their returns by dis
tilling and selling the oil. Spearmint, or
common mint, grew almost everywhere, but
peppermint had been found nowhere except
in Massachusetts. .Burnett had dealt in the
oil among the farmers in bis own State and
knew it to be profitable, so he went to gath
ering the wild peppermint of Wayne county
and distilling oil on his own account
THE FARMERS CAUGHT COT.
The product he found a ready sale for, and
for several reasons he was the only one who
thought it profitable to utilize the pepper
mint plant of Wayne county. At last tha
farmers awoke to the fact that they could
make money themselves out of the wild
product of the waste places, and began to
transfer the slant from its place of sponta
neous growth and cultivate it as a regular
crop. Under cultivation the plant did well
and the farmers distilled a few hundred
ponnds of the oil each year, the chief supply
in those days coming from China and
Japan.
In the village of Pheeps, in the adjoining
county, Ontario, in 1815, H. G. Hotchkisa
kept a country store. In dealing with the
farmers he took in trade peppermint oil,
and after awhile found that his stock of oil
had cost him about $1,000. Being anxious
to realize on it, he put the oil into cans, and
taking a sample, went to New York. The
drue; dealers said the oil was impure and re
fused to buy it Mr. Hotchkiss returned
home and made up his mind to send the oil
to Hamburg, Germany, which was then a
great center for tbe safe and distribution of
essential oils. He procured some thick
old-fashioned, stone ink bottles and put the
oil into them, sealed them and put the fol
lowing label on each bottle:
PEPPERMINT OIL,
: From "Wayne County, New York, U. 8. A. z
Guaranteed Pure by
H. G. Hotchkiss. r
He consigned the oil to a firm in Ham
burs', naming the sum he should receive for
it, if it was accepted. Nothing was heard
of it for a long time. Finally be received a
dratt for the sum he demanded, with an
order of another consignment of the oil.
This was the beginning of an entirely new
branch of agriculture not only in this
county, but in the world. Mr. Hotchkiss
gave up his store and went into the business
of growing and distilling peppermint oil on
an extensive scale, and the farmers followed
his example. Over 150,000 pounds of the
oil is now distilled in Wayne county each,
year, in favorable seasons. The crop is one "
that returns a fancy profit to the farmer, who
never gets below 52 a pound for his oil, and
from that price to $4 and $5. Twenty-fiva
pounds of oil to the acre is the lowest aver
age of the crop, and frequently it is double
that
WEEDS ABE TROUBLESOME.
The cultivation of pepperment is simple.
Great care is required, however, for weeds
grow fast among it The ubiquitous daisy
rears its dainty blossoms among the pepper
mint rows, as much at home as it is in tha
meadows, and the a:sthetie golden rod en
riches the mint borders with its colors.
While the daisy and golden rod are indis
pensable to a lady's corsage, their expressed
oil, mingling with the pungent juice of the
peppeimint, does not add to the efficacy of
the latter in curing baby's stomach ache.
The rag weed is a menace to the peppermint
fields and to the purity of the product It
looks something like lettuce and yields an,
abundance of hitter and pungent oil. In
sects do not interfere with tbe mint, as with
most eveiy other known product of mother
earth, and tbe great care is to keep the crops
free from weeds.
Two crops of peppermint are raised on a
field. The sets, or parts of old plants, aro
planted in April and May, in rows two feet
apart They grow to the 'height of two feet,
If the leaf is pressed the odor is very
profuse. The gathering season is in August,
and the plants are cut close to the roots
with a scythe. They are cured by wilting
in the sun like hay tor abont 12 hours, tha
oil being expressed more freely then than if
fresh. From the roots the next year's crop
springs.
PROCESS OF DISTIIIATIOS'.
The oil is distilled in an easy way. Tha
still is a vat with heavy staves hooped with
iron, and is about 4 feet high and 6 in
diameter. The mint is packed into the still
by treading. When the vat is full it is cov
ered air-tight and steam is forced in by a
pipe in the bottom of the vat The steam
volatilizes the oil or the mint, and its vapor
is condensed in a worm, as in ordinary stills.
The mixed oil and water is collected in a re
ceiver, and is separated by specific gravity.
Some farmers distill their own oil, but there
are 100 regular distillers in the county. They
toll the crop the same as a miller does
theCfarmer's grain for grinding. Tha
waste from the vats is fed to the cattle.
Wayne county is practically the only
peppermint growing district in the world,
and nine-tenths of the world's supply is
from there. St. Joseph's county, Michigan,
is the only other place where the plant iss
grown and distilled. Wayne county oil is
worth about 50 cents a pound more than any
other. Hotchkiss, the father of the culture,
handles nearly all the oil in the country,
and still packs it in the sirae style bottles
in which he made his original shipment to
Germany, 45 years azo. Wayne county oil
(nfl Tfnstn thi mflflrot nnrp hut 13 adnltp
ated with Japanese menthol. The whole-i
saler makes two pounds from a pound of
pure oil, and the retailers about six pounds.
The soil in Wavne county is warm and
rich and the climate mild. The crop is
seldom affected by frost but much wet
weather is injurious to it The roots are sub
ject to winter killing. Besides peppermint,
the cultivation of spearmint, pennyroyal,
wormwood and tansy is made a specialty,
the oils of which have just as high standing
in the market as does the celebrated Wayne,
county peppermint. Abthuk Wiet. ,
Ir In't everTbody who can kfpp a hotel
sncccsfnlly. Jlaitliew 4 Pieron are tho
popular proprietor t the Stiirtcrant House,
ISroirtway and TTrenM-nlnth 'rcct, :ewYoik. r
Strangers ate made to leel thoroughly at lioma, ,
Bfsa,J.
&
E&