Newspaper Page Text
THE PITTSBURG DISPATCH, SUNDAY, MAT - 26, 1889.
COOKS AND COOKERY.
Something About the Art of Catering
to the Public Taste
IK P1TTSBOBG HOTELS AED CLUBS.
A Few of the Host Experienced Chefs and
"What Their Duties Are,
KATDEAL GAS AN INVALUABLE AID
warns toe Tin dispatch.:
lines that are
ical, states that
we can lire
music and art,
but not -without
"We can get
theworks of our
thors; bat the
services of our
jichiUe Berta, Chef of IM cooks are m
J)uguesne Ulub. dispensable to
our happiness yes, to our very existence.
"We have all heard of the sorrowful fate of
the horse that yas taught to live without
eatinc, and even the example of Dr. Tan
ner "has not had the effect of inducing more
than a very small minority of human beinzs
to try the bold experiment of subsisting on
atmosphere alone. Scientists Ion? since dis
proved the fallacy that the chameleon lived
bv breathing only, and demonstrated con
clusively that everything that exists re
quires food. Man, the highest of animals,
is naturally more particular than the rest as
to what he eats, and in the civilized state
demands that art and intelligent skill be
used in the preparation of his viands. Civil
diation and cooking go together only sav
ages, and not all of them, are content to eat
their lood raw.
KETGS HATE BEE? COOES,
and princes have taken pride in setting
.before their guests banquets prepared with
vt3ieir own roval hands. From the time of
jaomer down to tne
present day bards
Have sung of the de
lights of feasting,
and have praised the
discoverer of new
lands and the in
Tentcx ot new edible
compounds in words
ol eqn al warmth.
long Kd the reputa
tion of being careless
as to -jvhat they eat
and the manner in
which it 5s prepared,
but they axe fast out-
rmirlnff It. nil tlA-
coming quite as particular as other people.
Indeed, the average American may now be
said to know a good thing when be sees it
or tastes it. He wants tbe best, and nothing
else will sati.s'4y him. He travels more than
he did a tew rears ago, and has more money
to spend. His taste is improved, and it
takes something more than the old-lasbioned
simple viands to satisly his palate. Any
hotel manager who has been in tbe busi
ness long will testily to the correctness of
these statements. Hence it has come about
T A mhmsinf
that hotel-keeping and catering are con
ducted very differently trom what they were
25 years ago. More variety in the bill of
fare and better cooking are absolutely nec
essary to prevent a falling off in patronage.
But though tbe Americans are becoming
good judges of food they are making far
less progress in mastering the art of prepar
ing it. An American could doubtless be
come a culinary expert quite as rapidly as
anybody else if he would study and master
the art The trouble is he won't do it.
Tbere is nothing alluring to him in a busi
ness that requires him to spend many hours
every day in a bot kitchen, serving a long
apprenticeship before he masters its details;
he would rather do- something else, even if
it pays him less. Now,
TO BE A XTBST-CI.ASS COOK
requires years of experience. In Germany
a youth who starts out to learn the trade
must serve an apprenticeship of five years,
without wages, and pay a sum equivalent to
about 5300 to his instructor. In France a
person muse enter the kitchen in youth, be
ginning as a dishwasher or in some equally
humble subordinate capacity, and advance
by successive stages from one department
to another until he proves himself possessed
of sufficient knowledge and skill to be en
trusted with the diiection of the cuisine.
In this country we hear a great deal abont
the enormous salaries said to cooks. We
read of Yanderbilt's $10,000 cook, and of the
vast income paid toDel-
monico's chef, until we
are half inclined to be
lieve that there is no
business or proression
that is more profitable.
'.The fact is, very few
cooks receive more than
adeauate recompense for
' wXflwMVHA tTipir lotinr sfiH efe-ill
One of the oldest and
most experienced chels
in Pittsburg told me
the other day that be
Jiadore Blanc, D1Q nj oeneve were
2IonongahelaHoiue,fiere a dozen men in the
country who got a salary of over 52,500 per
year for cooking or superintending the
kitchen of any establishment, private or
public There are a number of very com
petent chefs in this citr, and their salaries
range irom 5125 to 5175 per month. Sev
eral are paid 51,500 per year, bat the aver
age would probably fall below that figure.
The leading Pittsburg hotels and clubs
each employ experienced chefs. A lew
years ago tbey got along with such help as
they could obtain at home, but a determi
nation to keep up with the times has
caused them to engage the best culinary
talent wherever to be fonnd. Mr.
John B. Schlosser, probably the most
skilled caterer the city ever had, did more
to raise the standard of Pittsburg cookery,
while in the hotel business here, than any
other man. This is the opinion of one of
the best authorities on the subject in the
city a gentleman who has himself been en
gaged in catering to Pittsburg taste for a
Every hotel has its steward and assistant
steward, who attend to tbe important mat
ter of selecting and ordering the provisions
for the house. At the Mouongabela House,
Mr. "Woop, one of the proprietors, acts as
stewaid, and Mr. Bean, of the Anderson,
performs the same duty for his house.
WHAT IT TAKES TO SpPPLY HOTELS.
I had a talk the other dav with Mr. Adam
Myers, steward of tbe Seventh Avenue
Hotel, who has perhaps had a longer ex
perience in his line of work than any other
man in the city. I asked him about the
quantity of provisions he bought daily. He
"Five hundred or 600 pounds of beef, 125
to 150 pounds of fish, 5 or 6 gallons of oysters
when they are in season, and of game,
poultry, vegetables, etc, quantum sufficit,
tbe amount being somewhat variable, but
To select such a quantity of provisions,
getting all fresh and ot good quality, re
quires of course rare skill and good judg
ment. The steward's office is certainly no
sinecure I had often wondered how it was
possible to minister promptly to the wants
Cfex SloerkeU Seventh
of hotel guests when there was an unusually
large run of cus
tom, but 1 learned
that sufficient sup
plies to last a, day
were always laid in
at least 24 hours
ahead, and if there
is a shortage an at
tach is at once
made on the next
day's supplies. I
asked another stew
ard if there was
not necessarily a
of hotel provisions.
much," he replied.
waste is of food after it is coofced. uuests
usually order much more than they can eat,
and leave quantities of food almost un
tested. This, of course, is wasted; but of the
provisions themselves there is comparative
ly little lost, if the kitchen iS properly man
aged. The secret of success is to utilize
everything. A competent cook can take
old hens and tough beef, if we happen to be
deceived into buying such things, and pre
pare them in such a way as to mase mem
tender and palatable And so with every
thing else there is nothing, unless it is
sooiled, that something cannot be, made of
it, if the coofunderstands his business.
WHAT A CHEF HAS TO DO.
The kitchen of a hotel or club is presided
over by a chef, whose word is law in his do
main. His duties are manifold, but, gen
erally speaking, he works more with his
head than with his hands. He prepares the
bills of fare for the following dav and hands
them to the steward, together with an esti
mate of the quantity of provisions required.
He superintends the work of his assistants,
sees that the dishes are properly prepared
and everything kept in good order Much
of his time is devoted to studying up new
ideas in cookery, striving to get together
some sort of a delicacy that will strike the
popular taste Sameness in the bill of fare
is a thing to be avoided, and as there is
nothing new in materials, it is no easy task
to essay the preparation of a dish, com
pounded ot the old ingredients, that shall
appear new. Next to the chef is the second
cook, who attends to the entrees and sauces.
His work requires care and skill, and is
considered the most important part of
hotel cookery. Then there is the roaster,
who prepares the roast meats; the frving
cook ana his assistant, who cook meat, fish,
potatoes, etc; the "butcher," who dresses
poultry and cuts up meat for the cooks; the
salad maker, who prepares salads and cold
dishes; the vegetable cooks, usually women;
the pastry cooks, the bakers, and finally the
ice cream man, who prepares various deli
cacies and desserts.
"There have been great improvements in
kitchen accommodations, as well as in the
cooking, since I came to Pittsburg," re
marked Mr. Oscar Storck, chef of the Hotel
Anderson. "Our facilities are now -unsurpassed.
You can also state that natural gas
has been the greatest boon our cooks ever
had. I should hardly know how to do with
out it. "We can achieve far better results
with less labor by its aid.
X ATUEAL GAS A GEEAT AID.
"It is gas as much as anything that has
helped to give Pittsburg hotels the reputa
tion for excellent cooking that they have
among the traveling men of the country.
When it was first used people seemed to
think that meats could not be cooked rightly
by a gas fire, but in reality tnere is no fuel
equal to it. Our ranges are so arranged
that the fire does not touch the meat the
flame goes above it. The quantity of heat
is easily regulated, and air is forced in with
the gas to make a milder flame. The ap
paratus is the best that conld be devised."
Mr. Storck states that Americans are fast
developing a fondness lor highly seasoned
French aud German dishes, and are not now
satisfied with the plain food which they
preferred 25 years ago. Mr. Storck has had
27 years experience in his professionand has
been employed at the Hotel Anderson ever
since the honse was opened.
The Hotel Dnqnesne has a very fine
kitchen, andthe reputation of its table ii
such that it is unnecessary to comment upon
it here. "Francesco Ambrosini is the chef.
He is a man of experience, wbohas lately
been engaged for his present position,
though he was formerly employed in tbe
hotel as a cook.
The Duquesne and Pittsburg clubs each
. l... . aL.fn nllA MB I A lt 41. .
nave very comjicieu men, j" vm ,Uc
taste of some or tne nest jnagesoigooa
cooking to be found in the city. At the
former Signor Achille Berta, formerly
of the Hotel Duquesne, is the presiding
genius of the kitchen, and at the latter M.
Henri Forcade, who was formerly employed
at the Duquesne Club and in New York,
and who has held his present position for
three years or more.
The Seventh Avenue, chef is M. George
Stoerkel, a yourig man who, learned his
trade in France. He has been in this coun
try several years and at the Seventh Avenue
for the past year. M. Isadore Blano is the
chef at the Monongahela House. He was
also taught his art . by French masters and
understands it thoroughly.
E. W. Baktlett.
Guirsand revolvers, pistols etc., boys'
target rifles and 100 cartridges. 52 75; splen
did revolvers, double action, any caliber,
53; double barrel breech loaders, 58 to 5100.
Great bargains in all kinds of guns.
J. H. Johhsios, 706Smithfield street.
t Fresh ArrlraL
Just received from the Anheuser Busch
St Louis brewery large supply of their
celebrated Budweiser beer, in both quarts
and pints. For sale at G. "W. Schmidt's,
Nos. 95 and 97 Fifth avenue, city.
. THE GREAT
AT WHEELING, W. VA.,
MAY 29, 30 and 31, 1889.
Excursion Bates on all Railways.
VTOT1CB THE EXCURSION BARUE
iM Bella Vernon will leave foot of Thirteenth
su, S. K., at 10.30 A H. and foot of Wood st. at
11 A. M., and every two hoars thereafter for
Windsor Park and McKee's Rocks.
Ample accommmodations and perfect order
Tbe Bella Vernon can be chartered for ex
cursions by Sunday schools and lodges, etc.
For terms apply at
my2G-4S Room No. 13 Water st
GRAND MUSICAL AND LITERARY
To be given by the
A- M. & L. S.,
FOURTH WARD SCHOOL HALL,
Liberty St.. near East Park alley,
TUESDAY EVENING, MAY 28, 1S89.
ADMISSION, 25c. my26-S8
EACES EXPOSITION PARK
2:40 Pacine Race for Batchers and Merchants,
2.50 Trottine Race. 234 Trotting Race, 250
Pacing Race and Pony Running Race. Ad
mission, 60c: children, 25c. my26-23
DECORATION DAY EXCURSIONS
Str. Mat flower to shtnjriss Pars,
THURSDAY, MAY 80.
Boat leaves foot Wood street 10 A. M.. 12 it,
2P.M14F. SI., 6P.M.
Round trip 25c. my26-35
KO .1T Rl CTTTTT Rl'ff VTrT
Headquarters for Costumes of all descriptions,
for hire at reasonable prices.
mhl7-S0-Sa F. Q. REINEMAN.
B I J O U.
Under the Direction of..R. M. QULICK & CO.
BY SPECIAX. REQUEST
Two Farewell Performances.
THURSDAY, MAY 30,
Matinee and Evening,
The original and only
Reserved Seats, 75o, 50o and 25a
This is positively the last appearance of
BLIND TOM In this city. my2Wl
KSSS Monday, May27
By Special Arrangement with
MB. LOUIS AT.DRIOH,
By Bartley Campbell, Esq.,
Tbe play that made the fame of its author In a
Next Week-STREETS OF NEW .YORK.
GUID OPJL Ml
E.D.WILT Lessee and Manager.
Week of May 27,
Matinees: Decoration Day (Thursday)
Matchless production of WflUrd Spenser's
most, popular Comic Opera ot the present
Illustrated by a Grand Company of 0 Artists,
R. R GRAHAM,
J. ALDRIOH LLBBEY,
LLOYD WILSON, t
J. I". MoGOVERN.
Dazzling Electrical Effects.
Notice The programme used this weei per
fumed with Lightner's Maid of the Mist
Arrived at Last,
oveb P. B. B.,
THE GREAT CMTEMIAL MMOR.
THE LARGEST IN THE "WORLD.
Took First Prize at Philadelphia Centennial
Band Box Cafe,
25 union street,
my25-7S PITTSBURG, PA.
S mt "f 13
For Weak Stomach Impaired Digestion Disordered Liver.
SOLD BY ALL DRUGGISTS.
PRICE 25 CENTS PER BOX.
" reparea" only by THOS.BEECHAM, StHelens,IancashirejEngIanrI.
B. F. ALLEN & CO., Sole Agents
FOR UNITED STATES, 365 &. 367 CANABi ST., NEW YORK,
Who (if your druggist does not keep them) will mail Beecham's
Pills onreceiptof price tottnguireJirstfPlcascmcnxionjhis paper.)
REDUCTIONS IN PEICES
All over our Big Stores, forming a host of
attractions never before equaled. Read and
5,000 yards Figured India
Silks, the newest, latest and
richest designs, at 37c a yard,
3,000 yards Satines, spring
and summer styles,, an ex
cellent quality, at 9c a yard,
3,000 yards, Chambrays,
with handsome corded and
embroidered stripes, at 8cr
yard, worth 20c.
2,500 yards Cheviots,mixed,
stripes, checks and side
bands, at 19c a yard, worth
350 dozen Ladies' Gauze
Vests on sale Monday morn
ing at 15c A rattling bar
gain and a quality that usu
ally sells at 25c Come early
if you wish them.
300 dozen Ladies' Aprons
in Swiss, Muslin and Lawn,
.with drawn work, tucks and
embroidery, at 16c, 24c and
An elegantvariety of Shaw
Scarfs, handsomely embroid
ered and frino-ed, in all, the
delicate shades, including,
Cream.at $1 24 and $1 74.
Black Cashmere Fichus,
embroidered, jetted and'
fringed, at $1 49.
Ladies' and Misses' Blouses,
all-wool Flannel and Jersey
Cloth, the largest assortment
and best value in the two
cities, at $r 99.
Children's Caps, corded
and embroidered, at 24c and
Children's Wash Hats at
24c and 44a
Children's Tarn O'Shanters
and Fauntleroys from. 49c
Millinery Department still
in the lead. The busiest
place in our big stores. NO
CHARGE FOR TRIM
MING and popular low
orices the attractions.
N. B. Housefurnishing (basement) An
unparalleled assortment . Ice Coolers, Gar
den Utensils, Ice Cream Freezers, etc., and
the coolest place in the city.
DANZIGEE & SHOENBERG,
MOBBIS IS- JDAJSTZTG-JdlTl.
SISTH ST. and ZFIEIDTIET AYE.,
- M Cl0NG
6 U vr
and hold out no al
luring bargains in
one department to
facilitate the sale
of goods at a high
price in another.
Every article in our
store is a bargain.
We have no "Lead
ers" and therefore
no lame and halt
ing array of super
Everything in our
store is at the low
est price and every
department is con
ducted in the inte
rest of the purchas
and ire allow no de
partment to get into
a rut We are
prompt to introduce
novelties and quick
to discern new cur
rents of public de
mand. Coming in
Xo contact as we do
with the principal
and most reliable
the country and
with all classes of
purchasers, the fault
must be ours if we
fail to satisfy every
want, minister to
every taste and
meet every necessi
ty -within the limits
of our business.
.:. SUPPLY AND DEMAND KEEP THE STOCK FRESH ! ..
THE BIG HOLES MADE FROM DAY TO DAY ARE FILLED UP REGULARLY!
SO THAT WE HAVE NO "CHESTNUTS," NO "LEFT-OVERS." EVERYTHING IS BRAND NEW! BRIGHT! CRISP AND FRESH FROM THE BEST MARKETS OF THE WORLD!
Those who are at all'careful about their personal appearance cannot fail to profit by an inspection of the beautiful goods we have in our store. It has always been a matter of pride with us to gather together such
goods as will best serve the double purpose of wear and beauty, and while our efforts heretofore have proved entirely satisfactory to our army of customers, yet we must confess that the goods we have gleaned
from the harvest field this year overtops by one hundred per cent anything we have previously shown. You are invited to drop in and look over the magnificent grouping together of the best products of
the world, so far as ready-made Clothing is concerned. There is here for you to look upon every shade and color of cloth; every combination that the genius of the inventor or designer could hit on
and you must be blind to beauty and all that is tasteful if you cannot find something here to suit even the wildest dreams of your fancy. We always feel at ease in regard to prices. The small
establishments make frantic efforts to equal them, but like climbing the greasy pole, they slide back into their abodes until such time as they recover from their futile exertions.
dapttd for all purposes, never had
such a .splendid showing in quantity,
variety, taste and low prices as this
season, and its genuine excellence
has won for us already an immense
trade B'ut how couid it be bther
wise? Wiere else 'could mothers
take their boys and make their se
lections from such a stock?
Prices fiom $3 50 to $18.
Good knock about long-pant
suits at $3 50 and $4.
Good all-wool Suits at 5, better
than what aresold outside our store
at $y and evenVS8.
Fine sack and' frock Dress Suits
at $8;" good vahaeat 11 and $12.
Very fine Dress Suits, sack or
frock styles, $10 cunly.
HATS and CAPS.
Men's Derbys, in all the latest
spring shades, from 59c up to $3.
Men's Tourist or Crush Hats,
scores of different sj)ring styles,
48c to $1 50. Men's Straw Hats
in all kinds of braid9r at prices
guaranteed fully 25 per cent under
the prices of all or any other deal
ers. Every novelty in Boys' and
Children's Hats in Cloth, Felt,
Straw, at prices which are low
enough to please everybody.
Abundant, overflowing and unbounded bargains
this week fpr everybody. The only question for you
to consider is whether you want a suit We have
thousands at all prices fronv5 to 30. We offer
SUITS QUITE DRESSY at $5, $6 and $7. '
All-wool Suits, sacks and frocks, elegant for busi
ness and semi-dress wear, $8.
All-wool Suits in nobby light colors, neat medium
colors, dressy dark colors; black or blue Corkscrews,
plain Cassimeres, fancy Cheviots. Take your choice
Elegant Suits in Worsteds, sacks and cutaways;
Scotches in sacks and frocks and genuine imported
Irish Shannon Tweeds, etc., at $12.
Magnificent Dress Suits, handsome and stylish
goods in a most beautiful variety of patterns, fault
less in make, $15.
Buyers of Furnishing Goods know how easily and
quickly we knock out competitionbecause fifty cents
invested with us is as good as a dollar spent in many
other stores in this city. Underwear, Neckwear,
Shirts, Shirt Waists, Collars and Cuffs, Hosiery,
White Vests, Handkerchiefs, "Suspenders, Gloves,
etc., etc., are what you can obtain here in latest
styles and at lowest prices.
Josh Billings Savs:
"The bite of a hum bugg iz
wuss than a hornet's and al
ways different from a dog's,
for the dog growls and then
bites, but the hum bugg bites
and lets you do the growlin'."
with the dealers who say they
undersell us in G. A. R. outfits.
Purchasers at any store other
than ours those purchasers
we mean who want to get the
very best goods for the least
amount of money are likely
to do a heap of growlin' Now
be advised. Come and buy
your G. A. R. clothing of us.
You'll not be bitten, neither
will you do any growling, for
you'll get reliable goods at a
price to suit you.
A complete assortment of
White Gloves, White Vests, G.
A. R. Hats, Caps, etc
FROM THE ARCTIC OCEAN.
Buy your summer clothing here the coolest house
in the city to trade in. We catch every breeze that
blows and reduce the discomforts of summer shop
ping to a minimum. What we haven't in thin sum
mer clothing for .Men, Boys and Children, doesn't
belong to the business. Coats and Vests in Linen,
Seersucker, Alpaca, Lustre, Mohair, Serge, fancy
Flannel, Silk Alpaca, Drap d'Ete, Jersey Cloths, etc
SUMMER COATS, 19c to $4.
COATS and VESTS, 98c to $8.
A large assortment of Boys' Thin Clothing.
MEN'S and BOYS' PANTS.
A gigantic and mammoth assortment of Pants for
Men and Boys of all sizes. Where other dealers are
content with having their pants in any odd nook and
corner in their store we have three separate and dis
tinct departments for Pants and each one takes up
as much room as the whole of the store of some of
the smaller dealers. We have none but the latest
styles and best qualities, and every length of leg and
"width 'round waist
is what we excel in. There's not a
house East, West, North or South
in this great country that can equal
much more surpass our stock for
quantity, quality or low prices. We
could give numerous instances of
people going to other store3 once
(but only once) and then becoming
steady and regular patrons of ours.
Our prices range from
63c UP TO $10.
Nobby Sailor Suits at '49c, 98c,
ti 25. t 5 $ 3 H 5 U and
Elegant Kilt Suits at 98c, x 50,
$2, $2 75, 3 50, $n and $5.
'Beautiful Jersey Suits at $2 25,
tl, H S U 25, $S and $6.
Magnificent Knee-Pant Suits at
98c, $1 25, $1 75, $2, $2 50, $3, $4,
$5 and $6.
of all kinds for all kinds of people,
for all ages. That we are leaders
of the Shoe trade is a fact which
will admit of no doubt; that we
offer better goods for less money
than any other shoe dealer is a
truth admitted by all in a position
to know. We could take up the
space of a whole paper in describ
ing our stock, but would prefer peo-
ple coming to see for themselves.
ORDERS BY MAIL PROMPTLY ATTENDED TO.
THE PEOPLE'S FAVORITE STORE, 300 to 400 MARKET' STREET.
expended the full
est value, because
we give no credit
and therefore incur
no losses. The cash
buyer is not taxed
to pay for uncol
There is no discrim
ination made at our
the small purchaser
and the great, the
rich and the poor,
the experienced and
All have the same
advantages; to all
are named the same
every claim made in
to be strjctly true,
and no employe is
permitted to make
bout goods which
cannot be sustained
We have everything
to gain by trading
on the narrowest
margin of profit
possible. We could
not fill our store
with goods at the
lowest prices known
if we did not buy
on a large scale and
pay cash. We a
couldn't do the big,
business we do if
we didn't sell at