I THE, JAIR A Button Fad. Buttons are to bo used in every Kind of way, and a good set of buttons Is n fair investment on any woman's dress money. Take the new paste em erald buttons, and select a button which is set in silver with emeralds and rhlnestonos. Choose a small size and let there bo buttons enough to get the double-breasted effect upon a cloth dress. For this six buttons will Ibe needed, and three are placed high at each side of the bodice. These same buttons can later be used upon a fur Eton, straight down the front, and next spring they can grace the hack of a postilion belt. Hr Picture Hat. I never think that English women A:iy enough attentlou to the side and back views of tlieir heads and bats. Very often you can look charming full face when the side view leaves much to be desired. As a rule, it Is disastrous for an English woman to lengthen her face or to take away shade from her eyes. The tiny toque perched on the top of tht> head lias gone out of fashion, and mercifully so, for this was a very trying mode. When French women wear a neat hat or toque they Invariable shade their eyes with It.—Madame. What In Being Worn. A grant deal of gray is worn, but tliiefly in very pale tints, and that sil very shade with a pinkish tone is quite the most popular of all. Bright eolor- Jngs are not much worn, and no doubt Jtlio continued wearing of black and •;vhite for so long a period has induced a distaste for vivid colors. All the blues, heliotropes and pinks are soft and delicate, nud the misty pastel tones arc much affected. Black laee is a good deal worn, even on light colored gowns, and the tucked taffeta costume worn by tile smart ma tron is milch inserted and adorned Willi black laee set a jour and worn over a White or heliotrope slip. No More Heavy Skirts. The outing skirts—all walking skirts, In fact—are, as a rule, being made up uplined. Tlie circular skirt has disap peared, and on such costumes tlie flounee is used. The gored skirt with flare below tlie knees and heavy stitch ing or strapping is popular, but the pleated skirt is the new model, and is making heroic efforts to dominate the ffhl. It appears in side or kilt pleats ud In the very broad shallow box pleats stitched flatly two-thirds of the skirt length and then left to flare. Tailors, having found great difficulty 111 shaping and titling these pleated skirts smoothly over the hips, are now com promising in a large percentage of cases aud avoiding thickness by using a closely fitted plain hip yoke, to which the pleated skirt is attached with ex cellent effect. (Jn.cn. mill Fn.liloni. Queens, of course, need not trouble themselves about the latest mandate of fashion, as whatever royalty wears is the fashion; but few smart English- Women would care to copy the Em press of Germany in the matter of dress. Her royal highness pays much regard to what will stand wear and itear, and lias a comfortable indiffer /twia to loveilyess. The Empress of Vliussia is perhaps the most splendidly \drcssed woman in Europe; her furs alone are said to he worth a fabulous sum of money. Our own Queen Is somewhat severe in her style of dress, but what she wears entirely suits her and always looks pretty. Queen Amelle of Portugal posseses a distinct genius for dressing prettily, aud can make the ugliest costume look charming by a few touches.—London Tatlcr. For Steeple.. Women. The woman who cannot sleep is nl ways a nervous subject. She should religiously take enough physical exer cise eaeli day to induce healthful fa tigue. She should eat simple, easily digested food, avoiding tea and coffee later than her breakfast hour. Many women declare that ten and coffee have no effect upon their nerves. 1 know they are mistaken. Tea and ) coffee are excellent excitants and euc- I■' lies of sleep. The insomnia victim ' may be lulled to rest by a gentle,mas sage—the hypnotic stroke will often act as a magical sleep inducer. Some times a rub with hair friction gloves will induce sleep. A tepid batli taken just before retiring lias a sedative ef fect. But a hot bath is stimulating, and should not be taken at night by nervous subjects.—New York Times. Fruck. For School. Becoming, serviceable school frocks may be made from plaids which are more popular than ever. Stylish little dresses can be made from the silk over plaids which have the appearance of a narrow satin l-ibhou crossed on a plain cashmere background. The clothes in plaid patterns are > smarter than ever. Thoy range from the very small broken checks to 011 c Inch plaids, aud 011 up to plaids that are very large. There is a variety of color combina tions in these, blue aud green, brown and green, and red aud green, 011 a black ground, all being good style. The blue and green combinations ar* much ■ought after. •The serges with cloth finish, in pin 1(1 patterns, offer still other possibilities for school frocks. They come in many color combinations.—New York Jour nal. Nervous Worn nil Who Travel*. There is a rather amusing paper on "Women On a Journey" in the Lady's Magazine. The writer affirms that any one more incapable than the nervous woman who travels is not to be found, and proceeds to describe the conduct of such a one wlio lately journeyed from T.ondon to Edinburgh: "She was in a flurry of excitement at King's Cross, and ran hurriedly be tween the van where her goods was being piled in and the carriage in which she had deposited her rugs and dressing bag. Whilst looking after the one she was racked wilk the idea that someone was disturbing the other, and tlie scurry back to the carriage, as every new arrival entered, in dire fear that her seat would be appropri ated, was quite pitiful. When, at last, we started, she discovered that her seat was facing the engine, and we all moved to accommodate her with an other seat. In this she found a draught, and later an otfici.il was fetched to remove her belongings to another car riage." And so on. Not perhaps very wide of the mark, but the number o" such women must, after all, be comparative* ly few. g The English census returns show that but one woman in every six remain un married. Billiards have been brought into high favor in Spain by the Queen Mother, Maria Christina. The first woman to hold the office of President of the Colorado Academy of Science is Mrs. Cornelia Miles, the principal of a Denver school. Miss Grace George, the popular actress, lias one of the most valuable private libraries in New York City, her book shelves bearing hundreds of old plays and many rare first editions. The Queen of Portugal, Maria Pin, has joined the rank of the automo bilists. She has recently ordered a powerful machine, in which, it is said, site intends to make extensive tours. The Massachusetts Eclectic Medical | Society has elected a Manchester, N. 11., woman President, and she is said to he the first woman thus honored by any medical society in New Eng land. Miss Hannah 11. Clark, the new Dean of Women at Knox College, has made sociology and sanitary science her spe cial studies since she was graduated from Smith College in ISS7. She was awarded a degree by Chicago Univer city in 1597, and has pursued her stud ies in Europe at different times. Miss Grace Lincoln Temple, of Wash ington, D. C., is one of the first women to achieve distinction as a mural painter. The 'children's room in the Smithsonian, tlie Cosmos Club, and the dome and walls of the woman's build ing, at the Atlanta Exposition, are ex amples of her work. She has also dec orated many private houses. Mrs. Editii White, of Bennington, Yt., has received a small fortune as a re ward for a kind act. Years ago she he friended a stranger, who said he would remember her in his will. Mrs. White had forgotten the episode, when The other day she was notified* that $17,- r>(X had been deposited in her name at St. Louis, Mo. The stranger had died and left her that amount. <$ <g fhr Plaid bolts have postillion backs and large dull silver buckles. Dangling drops of cord are used upon all fabrics from cbilt'on lo heavy elolh. Slightly carved side combs of tor toise shell are cut in deep sharp points. • Scotch plaid silks on the bias vie with lizard and snake skins in favor for automobile bags. i.'repe de eliine, in cream, is em broidered in black and white floss to represent ermine tails for evening wear. Small flat hone buttons are shown in shades of blue, browns and greens for trimming the new fall shirt waist suits. Parisian pearls, cut in padoga shapes, are strung together closely, with many intervening gold links, to form the new est neck chain. The latest improvement in the liaek comli, designed to keep stray locks in place, is n broad curved band which extends across the top. Oriental -cushions lor cozy corners are folded in square envelope manner, and the joinings are concealed with \ariegated flat moss trimmings. The newest neck chains merely en circle the neck loosely, instead of hang ing to the waist. They are shown in pink and white pearls of graduating sizes. The bolero eoat and the pouched elotli bodice arc again in evidence, but the bolero is now provided with a tailed back, while the pouched bodice will be fottud with a short shaped basque all round. The ostrich feather boas, both black and white, and the two combined, llnd rivals In the white colored feathers that exactly match the whole tone of the costume. This Is specially com mendable in gray of the tender pearl tone. HINTS ABOUT HOUSEKEEPING^ Foster Wall Papers. Among the novelties in Parisian wall papers are some striking poster effects. One is a grotesque lizard and fox de sign. Another is a girl's figure in a poster frieze, with a moire side wall. Another fubric effect in the side wall has bunches o- cherries, and in the frieze is a little poster boy picking the fruit. In another, birds are flying over the side wall, wi-h poster cats watch ing them from the frieze. Making Kinglets. Every mother likes to see her baby with curly hair, and if is not natur ally so it can he made to grow so with very little care. The baby's hair should, of course, bo washed and brushed every morning, but when the brushing is done, do not leave the hair smooth, but with the tips of the fingers rub the hair in little circles from right to left all over the scalp. This twists the hair at the roots and produces the much desired curls. To Clean Oriental Hues. When a flue Oriental rug is to be cleaned it may be sent to a cleaner's or washed at hopse. At a good clean er's they will put U in a machine which removes the dust with a strong cur rent of air. But It can be washed with out fear of Injury, as most Oriental rugs are washpd many times before reaching this country, and the colors are only mellowed by it. Stretch and tack the rug dh a clean floor, and scour well with soapsuds. Then rinse it thoroughly and leave in position till quite dry.—New York Tribune, Setting* For a Library. The elaborate bindings which char acterize the hundreds of "latest" hooks continually on the market have forced book buyers, if only to be consistent, to give their library a proper setting. With comparatively little trouble you can fix up a beautiful little corner for your books, which you will find the most restful nnd delightful room in the house. In the first place a soft shade of old blue In raw silk will give you beautiful curtains for your hook shelves. Bun a slender brass rod in a loose casing at the top of the curtain without up standing ruffle. Chinese wares in blue nnd white, exquisite grees nnd strong yellow make lovely hits of color as vases. Search the Chinese and Jap anese stores for your large vase, and, if possible, place it on a stand of carved teakwood. An Egyptian jar of figured brass makes a charming jardiniere to drop a potted plant in. Such a piece as this should have an Oriental taborette un der it. Raw silk curtain over Arabian not would give you pretty window draperies. In this case the Arabian net with border and perhaps inserting bangs straight nnd slightly full next the window, over curtains of blue; raw silk can then be draped back if you so desire.—New York Journal. pjt_RECTPES: £ Fruit Tapioca—Soak one cupful tapi oca over night. In the morning cook in double boiler in a quart of water un til transparent. When done add a cup of sugar, one tablespoon lemon juice and throe or four sliced bananas. Serve cold with plain or whipped cream. Other fruit may he substituted for ba nanas. Plain Waffles—lleat a pint of milk and add half a cup of butter; stir until melted, then cool and add the well beaten yolks of three eggs and salt to suit the taste. Stir the liquid into two cups of flour, making a smooth, thin batter. Beat the whites of eggs lo a stiff froth and fold in, but do not beat again. Bake immediately on a hot, well greased iron. The batter nnist be thin enough to spread quickly when poured Into the waffle iron. Quince Butter—Pare and core the quinces, cutting them up rather fine; cover with water and cook until ten der. Place the skins and cores in an other kettle with just sufficient water to prevent their burning and cook until soft; then strain off the juice and add to the quinces. To each pound of fruit allow three-fourths of a pound of sugar. Boil down until it is smooth and thick; stir frequently, as it will burn easily. Put in jars and seal like jelly and keep in a cool, dry jilacc. Boiled Dressing—This is nice for cold slaw or may he used with other vege table salads. Mix a dessert spoonful of dry mustard, half a tenspoonful of salt, quarter of a teaspoonful of white pepper, half a teaspoonful of celery salt, with a large tablespoonful of butter. Stir in thoroughly the beaten yolks of two eggs and heat all to a cream, then heat in a cup of cream, sour or sweet (if milk is used add an other egg). Stir nnd cook in a double holler until it begins to thicken, lie move at once from the fire, and when cold heat in two or three tablospoonfuls of vinegar. A little sugar Improves this dressing; but do not make it too swe-it SHOES COBBLED BY MACHINES. Worn Footgear Mar Ke Repaired Willi* You Walt. Machines to do "cobbling." repair ing worn-out shoes, is the latest. The process is described as follows by the Providence Journal: Tile outworn shoes come into the shop with nothing of any value save the tops. The dilapidated heels and soles are taken off by one man, who in turn hands the work on to another special department. A thin strip of leather called the welt is sewed around the under part of the shoe with a ma chine called the "welt stitcher." The welt is the foundation for the sole, and to this thtn border of leather the heavy tap will be firmly fastened at last. The process occupies just eighteen seconds, and when done in a far rougher man ner by hand three-quarters of an hour Is required. The bottom of the shoes inside the welt is now- tilled with cork and other water-proof ingredients. Then the high grade white oak leather sole is laid on the bottom, but it is not yet lime to sew it on. A machine called the "channeler" swiftly cuts a half-inch gash around the lower edge of the sole. Tliis process is rapidly followed by an other machine, the "channel opener," which lays back the strip cut by the "channeler." Now everything is ready for the "stitcher." Tile intricate mechanism performs in a few seconds the task that costs the hand repairer hundreds of painful stitches, straining eyesight and unlimited time. Furthermore the ma chine uses a heavier thread, tlie stitches are tighter and more uniform. Every portion of this machine is kept hot to enable the waxed thread to pull smoothly through the leather. Overdrawn Account. l . You have a deposit of nervous energy placed to your account in the hank of your body. It may be large, in which happy case you are a millionaire in strength and accomplishing power. Or It may be so microscopic as to need careful husbanding and little expendi ture to keep it from dwindling out al together. But many millionaires become pau pers and some "dime savings" swell into millions. It depends upon th way the capital is managed. You may think you have so much tlint there is no need to me economical. You get up in the morning and feel the blood bounding through your veins like mountain cataracts, and you think you can turn the mill wheels of the world. You work day and night, or you play day and night, which is some times more exhausting, and go at the limit of your speed all the time. You nre overdrawing your hank account of energy, and Unit needlessly, for you probably have enough to last a long and useful lifetime. It pays to sit down and sharpen your tools, and it adds cent per cent to your body bank de posit. Another with not half your brains or bustle will get ahead of you in the end, for he makes every act, every thought, go straight to the mark. lie wastes no effort. Everything he does means something; it helps toward some given end. You spend a great deal of ammunition 011 your quarry be cause you arc over-anxious. lie keeps cool, takes steady aim and wings his bird. You get wrinkleß and frost-tipped temples and become n bankrupt in vitality when you should he in your prime. Yon have overdrawn the best nnd most valuable bank account the Lord over placed on the books of life— the ability "to love and to work nnd to play and to look up at the stars."— Now York Herald. Old "Castor" fine* For Junlc. The announcement that the obsolete wooden frigate, his Majesty's ship Cas tor, has been handed over to the ship breakers nt Sheerness, says the Lon don Telegraph, recalls an exciting in cident In the history of the old vessel. After taking part in the Syrian cam paign of 1810, the Castor was subse quently employed 011 the northwest const of Ireland. In 1817 the frigate was unfortunate enough to run into and sink her Majesty's cruiser Dili gence, while riding at anchor, drown ing most of the crew. The Diligence nt the time was under the command of Sir John Iteid, and the affair naturally created a sensation In naval circles. The officer of the watch 011 board tlie frigate was removed from the navy, but was afterward reinstated, and ap pointed to the coastguard service. The service promptly dubbed the unlucky frigate the "Blind Castor," a name which stuck to her for Hie rest of her career. For many years the Castor had been employed at South Shields as a drill-ship for the ltoynl Naval Ite serve. Riihieft Kept in (lie Oven. That nti oven may make a good baby incubator has been proved by the fact that the twin babies of Mr. and Mrs. .1. W. Simmons, of Des Moines, lowa, have been kept in an oven for a period of three weeks during which their little lives seemed to liaug by a thread. The infants were born three weeks ago. One weighed three and a half pounds and the other three pounds, and each was twenty-six inches long. Both are girls. At the time of their birth 1 lie physi cians said they considered it impossible lor Hit frail little bodies to bo kept alive, although it might he possible with the aid of an incubator for sev eral weeks to nurse tliem until tiiey could gain more vitality. The oven of a large range was im mediately converted into an incubator nnd the little girls' grandmother took charge of the funny baby house. With constant watching the heat was kept uniform. The infants were kept in a basket in the oven for three weeks, and are now In a healthy condition.—New York Sur, fe fc r%i J Now- York City.—Loose coats make the feature of the season for young girls as well as for their elders, and ap pear in many variations. This smart LOOSE COAT FOR A MISS. May Mantou model includes the fash ionable slot seams, one of the newest sleeves and the shoulder eapes that are so much in vogue, but can be made without these last when a plainer gar ment is desired. The coat is cut with loose fronts and hacks that fit loosely and is laid in in verted pleats, stitched to give the slot seam elTect. At each front, on the line of the slot seams, is inserted a pocket that adds greatly to both the conve nience and style of the coat. The sleeves are slightly bell-shaped and are finished with roll over cuffs. The little "SLOT SEAM" BLOUSE AND NINE GORED "SLOT SEAM" SKIRT. capes are circular and can ho used or omitted as preferred. At the neck is a roll-over collar that fits snugly about the throat. The right side of Iho coat laps well over the left and is held by buttons and loops, lull buttons and but tonholes can he substituted whenever tlioy may be desired. Oiio of the miil Latent Deftignn. "Slot seams" are among the features found in the best and latest designs and lend themselves lo coats, waists and skirts with equal success. The stylish May Mauton blouse illustrated in the large drawing is shown in castor colored cloth and istrimmed with fancy applique braid in castor and brown shades. Ti is worn as a separate wrap, but the design suits the entire cos tume and all tin* season's suit and Jacket materials equally well. The broad shawl collar is novel and becom ing. and is especially smart and can be made smaller if desired. The blouse is fitted with the fashionable double slot seams that extend to the shoulders on fronts and back, uudcr-nrm and shoul der seams completing the adjustment. To the lower edge of hack are attached shapely pointed talis, and basque por tions with rounded corners tit smooth ly over the hips. Tin* belt which crosses in front has ends pointed to match the talis in back and conceals the joinings of these portions. The sleeves as shown are in hell shapes, and allow of slipping on and .off with ease, but can he gathered into cuffs in bishop style when preferred. The blouse can be worn open to the waist line or buttoned over as shown in the small cut. The quantity of material required for the medium size is four and three quarter yards twenty-one inches wide, two and a half yards forty-four inches wide or two and a quarter yards til'ty two inches wide. Slot seam effects are much in vogue and are seen upon many of the smart est skirts. The skirt shown in the large picture is cut in nine gores. At the edge of each gore are laid tuck pleats that meet to form the slot seams, and nre stitched flat to flounce depth, the seam proper being bidden at uuderfolded pleat. The pleats fall free at the lower edge to provide the fashionable flare. The fulness a,t the back is laid In inverted pleats tliat are pressed flat nnd can be stitched several inches from the top as illustrated or to correspond with the other pleats if so desired. The quantity of material required for the medium size is seven and a quarter yards twenty-seven inches wide, four and seven-eighth yards forty-four inches wide or four and a half yards iifty-two inches wide when material has figure or nap; six and three-quarter yards twenty-seven inches wide, three and three-quarter yards forty-four inches wide, or three and five-eighth yards fifty-two inches wide when ma terial lias neither figure nor nap. Woman's Moose or Shirt Waist. Princess closings, or closings made invisibly beneath two box plea-Is that meet in centre front, make an impor tant feature of the latest waists, and are essentially smart nt the same time that they possess tire advantage of al lowing most effective trimming. This handsome May Mauton model includes inverted pleats, stitched to form the fashionable slot seams for a few inches below the shoulders, the pointed straps over the shoulder seams and a belt with postillions. The original is made of waist clolb, in pastel green with trimming of narrow bands of black silk, slitclied with black corticelli silk, and enamelled buttons, but all waist materials are appropriate and the trim ming can he varied again and again. I The foundation lining is snugly fitted j and closes at the centre front, but sep- arately from the outside. The waist propel' consists of a plain back and fronts tliat arc laid in Inverted pleats at flic shoulders, which provide becom ing fulness over the bust, and in a box pleat at each edge. The back is drawn down snugly in gathers at the waist line, but the fronts blouse slightly over Ihe licit. Over the shoulder seams are "Or BLOUSE on SHIItT WAIST, applied straps tliat give tlie fashion able long-shouldered effect, Init which can he omitted when a plain linish i* preferred. The sleeves are the regulation ones wllli cuffs that lap over at the inside scams. The closing is effected invisi bly by lapping the right edge well be neath the left box pleat and so bring ing the two together at tho centre front. The neck is finished with a stock elongated in bishop style, and at the waist is worn a shaped belt to which the postillion is attached. The quantity of material required for the medium size is four and three-quar ter yards twenty-one inches wide, four yards twenty-seven Inches wide, three and a quarter yards thirty-two inches wide or two and tivc-cigUth yards for ty-four inches wido.
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers