EMPIRE OF DRESS. SEWASD llKrOMIXOOAUJIKNTS UK WOMKN. AKttllnh Itnnque of C'liovlot Hand some Cnt0 unit Ilunil of llouole Cloth for Mines Tho "I ' ""V BOWK mixed cheviot trmdo f tbe Alyl'sh tailor finished J basque, depicted iu tbo first large illustration. It id dec- urnted in Intent mode with stitched totrnps nnJ small gnilt buttons. The kilove-ntting adjuntmout in accom- pushed by single bunt darts, under- nrm esrt J!e buck goron, anil a curv ing center buck seniu. The cloning it in the center front, the nenmlers vest extending to close on left, under the graduated straps tbnt extcud to lower edge of front. Tho buck ia provided with etrape to match, both meeting At a font teen-year-oM size, 1 yards; for aixtoeu-yt-nr-old size, 1 ynrda. I,I)IES' LON(1 OAT. Tlila ttyli-h top garment commonly known ns tlio "Nowmarkot," in mitdo of dnrk, rongh-fnend Cheviot, nnd dosed with large pearl or lone but toun. It in pimped According to tho Intent tnilor modo, tho front baing widened to fall loosely below tho hip', conforming in shape to tho fnh lounhlo skirts. The loone, double breasted fronts nre deeply faced, mid reversed At tho top in cunt lapels that meet thn ends of tho deep, rolling etonu collnr in notehon. Tho lapels nnd collar can bo rnied nnil cloned to tho throat for better protection in in rlemoiit wvnther. The back nnd sidea lit nirncly, with nnderarm And side back pores And a wolhcurvod center team that eniln in deep cont laps below tho waist line. Hounded cont plaits that Are marked bv singlo buttons (jive nddod fulluenn nt the side back gores, tho stylish ripplo e licet At the Hides iu LAMM' IIKPARTMKXT OHO HAT OHNAMKNTS, (Inn curious decoration for wintor huts nnd bonnets is the head of A chipmunk. This is mounted with its grinning littlo tuuth nnd port littlo onrs in tho centre of n tnn-colorcd at greltn which is fnrthor ornamented with triangular scraps of fur. Tlieno Innt b'jar A clono rcsrliiblnnoo to nil opened chcNtuut burr. Tlio whole is clono to ii n turn, but it in not at nil np propriuto for n neat-looking woman's hendgenr. Now York WorM WOIIM OVKIlHKritS OP TIIK roon. Why it in desirable that women bo elected on tlio llourd of Overseers of tho I'oor in tlio iowns of Massachu setts needs no argument. That is tho kind of work iu which good women nre ntiturnlly interested and netivo.iind their special fitness for Mich service does not admit of challenge. It will bo for tho public good iu nuy com munity to put nt lemt olio competent woman on nil such board. Spring- llel (Mass.) Republican. niPPLE BA8QUE-DE3IQXBU Bl MAY MAN TDK. 4he shoulder seam. The shallow cir cular basque is joined to the lower edge atarting from tbe darts on front, the free edges being stitched to match the straps. The lull gigot sleeves Are gathered At tbe top And arranged over comfortable linings, a hollow box-plait being laid nnderneatb, tbnt extends to wide ouff depth, with tbo edges caught down by rows of small buttons. A close fitting collar finishes tbe neck, that can olose in frout or on tbe left shoulder, as preferred. The tailor- mane gown is me iavonie lor anop ping or street wear, and this style is .especially Ohio aad beooming. 8er?o, cheviot, tweed, camel s hair, crepon or cloth in the stylish mixtures, checks, tripes or plain varieties will develop handsomely by the mode. v ,TKe quantity 01 44-incu wuie mate Required to make thia basque for having a 32-moh bust measure Varda; for a Sti-iueh eizo, 3 J Vor a 40-inoh size, 8 yards. MISSES CAM Wim liOOD. The stylish cape of bnuole cloth shown in the second large illustration, nd designed by May Mantou, is handsomely lined with plaid silk. The cape ia shaped in ciroulnr outline, nd can be worn witn or without a earn in center back, as best suits the material. Tbe tbouldrri are smooth, iLIm AUaJ : .1 .3 . l :i "Hlls to fashionable length in stylish les all around. Tbe collar can be mlr with the fronts rolled as shown, "cloted higher, or rolled over on cape the aklrt portion distinguishing the now modes. The fnll gigot sleeves are shaped with single eeam, the fullness t the top being plaited into tbe arm's eye, a double seam of machine stitoh- &3 Kill TBI "MEWMABKBI ing simulating oiiSs. Fockots are inserted on eaeh front and concealed bv laps that are neatly lined and atitched in tailor style. The edges can be plaiuly finiahod or machine stitched as preferred. All kinds ot rouRU or smooth-faced cloth, tweed, cheviot, aerge or diagonal in checks, WOMEN Hrlt'll'.lS. Ijoiidon tins it woman who claims tho proud d'trco of Muster of Hnr gnry. Her nnmo is Miss Limine Al-drich-lllake, and ' nho linn a brilliiiut record. LaHt ynur sho took her M. 1. nnd this year alio panned a HiicciMisful cxiimiuiitum qualifying her for n du greo which no womnn hitherto Iihh gniucd. I'ivo young women in Lon don will becoiiiu fnll-fludg.'d lliiclielors of Hurgery this upriug. Amorion has many women physician", but surgery is n branch of tlio medical profession which him had no attraction for them so far. Now York l'rcaa. . MI8.-E3' CAPE WITH HOOD. lined throughout, displaying tbe pretty plaid silk on its rounded front dget. The cape ia hooked closely at the neok, two pointed straps closing the front edges with bone buttons. The edges of cape, straps and collar re finished with maohine atitohing in tailor style ; but this can be omitted it plain completion is preferred. Capes by tbe mode are made of modi nut and heavy cloaking in plain und mixed colors, with smooth or rough faced surface. For early spring cape ia this style are made ot the dress ma terial and warmly interlined. The hood can be finished separately and hooked on at tho neck when worn, or omitted when not desired. The quantity of 51-inch wide mate- rial (squired to make this cape for C'rt twt'T jar old i l7rdi; (or stripes, mixed, plain or fancy weave will maki stylish, comfortable and protective ooat for storm or ordinary everyday wear. The quantity ot M-iuoh-wide mate' rial required to make thia ooat for lady having a 82-inca bust measure ia 0 yards ; for a 83-inoh size, 6 yards ; for a 4'J-inon aize, 6 yards: for a 42 inch size, 0; yar Is. HOW VEILS ARB WORX, Teila are no longer worn with their superfluous width gathered in folds under the uhiu, but must be draped tiny bit below the chin, care being taken the edge ia always evenly trimmed. A bitdly worn untidy veil can literally destroy every virtue fin hat may poatvi. HOT WATEII Foil COHPI.RXIOX. Tho hot-wnter remedy is nlwnys the best one for mnking tho complexion bcniitiful. It ia very Himplii nnd equally snfc, two good points iu its fuvor. If persisted iu bluckliemls will soon depnrt nnd tho complexion will nsmnne tho milk nnd white iippcnrmico of a baby. Tho hot water treiitmi'Ut should bo indulged in every night mid morning. At night tho fnco should bo bathed in water as hot as one can Btaud, nnd then thoroughly rubbed with a good cold cream. lie can fill to mo a circular motion iu rubbing. Iu tho morning tho cream may bo omitted nud tho faou first butluxl in very hot water nnd then diiHlied with cold wnter. Tho diet should bo watched with care. Now York Jour nal. AN OMELET ( Ll'D. Eggs, it ia claimed by tho host authority, are nt nil seasons cheaper than moat, and they ought to and do Uud a regular pluoo on tho menu of most households. 13ut is thoro any thing mora ofton abused iu tho pro piring? Auy cook, tho most unex perienced, will say without hesitntiou than sho can cook eggs but compara tively fow bear out the atutumout with the facts. Ponohed,l)oi!o.l, scrambled, an omelet how simplo these uiutliodH sound, yot how ruro is tho perfection which alouo ia tho excuso for thoir being oncoiintorod. Last winter, in ouo of the suburbs, company of half a dozen young matrons, happooing to discuss this mutter in a casual way, decided to form an omelet club, to exist for only six weeks, nud whoso purposo should bo to attain perfection in the prepara tion of this one dish. Each chute- laine in turn ontertained tho olub, und iu chafing dishes, two nt eiicli luncheon, by two designated members of the club, omolots, wttu variom things from paraloy to mushrooms, wero made and served. Following the luncheon on each olub day there was an hour's session, at which various simple methods of serving eggs were presented and discussed, iuoludiug poaohing, scrambling, frying, and more. Authorities were looked up, and though, to quote .one of the mem bers, "I got horribly tired of the name of eggs," it was suprising how much we found to oritioisa and im prove upon in the average household cooking of them, Now York Times. sho I no spiritual looking. Yon, puro while rones by nil menun. 'If it wero Myrtioo C. you were sc- lecliiig for," added tho nritio, "I should say send her carnations. They expross both delicacy nnd strength end suit that laughing, lively girl to perfection. Carnations nro nlwnys fresh nud spicy nud natural looking moreover they tin vo that lasting qual ity so denirnblu in a woman, whether ns friend, sweetheart or wife." Tlio young man thought over tho l.'at of his ncquaintiiiico. "Miirjorio N.ouglilto hnvo violets," Im snid, "or mignonette J sho in not distrnetingly beautiful, hut so worn 11 n I v, ni cluar-oved and fiesli look ig'" " Flowers often snggost tho chnrnclers of thn wearers or rather of those with whom thoy nro favorites. Ouo droop ing, slightly conviinptivo girl nlwnys chooses lilies of thn vnlley, hyacinths, tnberoseH, nnd other waxy, sweet, cloying things. On n vigorously healthy, happy girl theso blossoms huciii out of placo. They male) tier robustness nud high spirits seem vul gar, by their lienvy, sickly sweet ness. lied roses belong by right divine to a stately beauty. the woman who is so 10 to be bri. limit nnd perfect iu her lino nsthu red rose in in its prov ince, l'iuk roses nro less exacting in their requirements. A girl needs only to be fairly fresh, sweet nnd dainty to wear them ofTeetivoly. Crmim nnd yellow rones demand u slightly more poetical stylo of beauty than their red and pink sisters not cx ictly tho lieiiilly of tho cloister, surest ivo of altars and quint religious lightens tlio whito rones do, lint n cross between that nud the mere charm of tho draw ing room. Tho young womnn who aspires to tho unusual, who longs to typify tho weird and "out of tho ordinary" se lects orchids as her (low or. UNITED AMKR1CA. Westorn Reptiblici Could Form an Irre3iBtiblo Combination, Noarly a Million Armed Mon Roady For Mobilization. OIBLS AND FLOWERS. "I want to send Miss D. some flow era, mother; what would you saleot?" asked a university mau whose thoughts ran much more to athlotio sports than to girls, and who regnrdod his mother's taste as infallible, says a writer in tho Now York Tribuue. "Miss D. ?" niusod the matron. "That tall girl with the sweet, pale fuoo? Bend her white roses, not the creamy ones, the pearly white of that sort that never seem to open fully. Miss D. remind me of Saint Cecilia, FASHION NOTES. i'lain Jupaiiesu crepes, spotted with sequins iu small designs, mo girlish, stylish mid pretty. Old Dutch chairs nro quito popular in tho tea rooms of tho mansions of tho Knickerbockers. Turkish uud Armenian fans nro in the market. One tviio of a Turkish fan has a small dagger in the handle. Uncurled ostrich feather fain uro nil tho rago iu England. They nro not pretty, but they uro very odd nnd ec centric looking. French fans nro more novel than ovi.T.especiiilly the huuil-paiiited gim.o varieties, which nro jeweled iu tl its, maud nnd star patterns. falcuu featiier fans mounted on sticks mnilo from trees grown upon noted Southern battlefields, catch tho cyo of tho curio-soekor. Jllac'.c satins, with heavy surfaces, nro in voguo for married women. They aro richly flowurod with regal patterns of poppies and chryuautuu mums. A cozy corner in a tea room should bo bounded by duiuty Japanese scroous, over which uro hung beauti fill jinoroideiies on orepons, sutins, satinets uud piueupple cloths. Luiatuer for dross waists is some thing uuiquo in tho winter fashions, It is tau iu color, thin enough to be pliablo, und is decorated with up pliquu luce, as if it woro satin or vel vet. The stock collar for women holds its own iu a way to guarantee it will bo fnshioiiublu for a long time to come. It is untdo of almost every known material, except, perhaps, oil cloth uud calico. Art groon folts mako quaint oarpot- ings for eoomitrio tea rooms. If tho walls be papered with lloral patterns, the effect of the aolors on tho green background is particularly fresh and harmonious. A pretty bonnet of moss-green vel vet, studded with green, gold and violet spauglos, has, toward the baok, abovd tho ears on each side, u mauve velvet orchid, with spangle and rhine- stoue rosuttes clustered arouud tbo short stums. New bracelets are of tiny gold horse shoes all strung together. They come on the eve of tho horse show, and must appeal to many who devote much time aud attention to tho "noble aui nial," especially iu public wheu thore is au uudieuce. Oue fuels as though euninior were always present by the liborully flowered silks used iu music room, opera house and drawing room by tbe belles of tho day. Wreath of small posies are worn about the huudt, gar lands of vinos over the shoulders, aud trui s of wild fluwor on tho dress Making n grand total, f ho American republics have to-dny, equipped nnd Hrmod, over 0(15,000 men, regulars nnd militia, against thn (!I1-',M)( regu lar, reserved nnd Auxiliary forces which tho Uuited Kingdom of (Ircat liritain has stationed iu England, In dia nud the colonics. Without ndd ing n singlo man, volunteering or drnftod, this sido of tho water thus Appears to have tin) advantage of numbers, ns far ns the now organized land force is concerned. Chilo tins a standing nrmy about one-quarter tho sio of ours nnd a National Ouard of ovor 60,001) moll. All of these are armed with small cali ber rifles. Argentina maintains n standing nrmy ono-third tho sisno of ours, but sho linn a tremendous Na tional Ouard, numbering 1101,000 almost three times tho si.n of our or ganized militia, snys the Washington correspondent of tho lloston Trans cript. Hhe has only lately equipped rself with tho most modern fire- nrniH, Iter forces alone, II ml led to ours, would mako tin nrmy of nlmost A half million, i'eru, although with smaller force, has likewise pro cured modern, rilles, not forgetting her recent defeat by Chilo. Onu great disadvantage under which wo would sufTor, if joinod with tho sister republics against the Uuitud Kingdom, is tho lack of uniformity of arms. Jeieli ol tlio noiuu nun unu trnl American States has its character istic arm and many doubtless carry varietv of iinttorna. HuiMioso nil of the Uuitud States, Central aud South America worn concentrated for war. About tweuty-fivo mngaxiuo factorii might bo require to operate night end day mnking that many sizes of car fridges. Each nationality would bo disabled without its special brand of Ammunition, because it could not bor row from a neighboring nrmy using a ilifTcrnnt shell. Groat I'.ritaiu's iu fnntry is equipped with a rillo which will repeat clevon shots. Tho whole nrinv can bo supplied from ouo fac tory nud ouo reiuiuut call obtain new supply of cartridges from uny other. (treat liritain lias 81! armored ships in servico ; wo have but '1 Sho bull ling 1 1 ; wo but 10. Sho has addition 188 iiuarmorud ships avail able; wo but 42. Shu is building 28 nuw vossels of this class while wo arc builiug 0. In other words Grout lirit nin hns over four times us many ships ready for war ns wo hnvo, and is still building over twico as many ns we nre. The republics of Central nnd South America cou'.d furnish us uboiit 200 ships, which when added to ours, will form a fleet still smaller than that of Groat liritain. lint John B'.lll cannot spare all of his fleets from for oigu waiei'H, for fear of Uussia aud France. Brazil's nnvy consists of nineteen vossels, seven of which uro armored. Only two of those aro battleships, the largest having a displacement of 6,700 tons aud an armor belt eleven inches thick. Besides these, Brazil hus twenty-two torpedo boats. Sho is also building cluveu uew naval vessels, four of which ro to be ironclads. Argen tina has seventeen ships iu her navy, five of which nre armored, besides twenty-one torpedo boats. II jr largest vossol has a displacement of 4,200 tons nnd an armor belt of nine inches. Chilo can add to this eleven vessels nnd twenty-two torpodo boats. Her lurgest is a battleship of 0,900 tous, with a twelvo inch belt. Uruguay can lend t'eu vessels, three of which aro gunboats. The nnvios of the remain ing republics of C-'ntral and South Amerioa are very insignificant as in dividuals, but if concentrated would make quito a large duet to act as com merce destroyers. With this combinod navy Uncle Sam oould ot least defend bis princi pal seaports. It is thought that this task would be easy with such power ful aids as the ram Eatardin and the monitor Puritan. llniln (iot flio Henry. In California tho bocs frequently, on swarming, tuko to tho woods. Hol low trees are favorite homes for thorn. Now, among the tall redwoods that skirted tlio margin of tho mountain stream, two or three boo trocs were found. It was settled Hint one of tlieno lilvnn nhoitld bo takoii np. The bole of tlio Iron wns moro than font font iu diameter. At nbout sixty fool from tho ground tho boos had found k not holo and a hollow space. It wai udgod by tho coming nnd going ol tho bees that thoro must be large stock of honey. As tho true was wanted for timber, nnd had begun to die at tho top, it was determined to turn it to account for both honey And lumber. On a bright moonlight night tho rauchmeu began on that troo. Io nbout two hours it oamo down withe crnsh. A swarm of mad boos boiled out of the knothole. It was evident that nothing moro could bo dono that night. It was plnnnod on tbe noxt ight to go with tho usual appliances of sulphur, silence tbo bees, and take up tho honey. When tho troo wns reached it wns certain that nil enemy had boon thcro. The enemy was evidently a bear, nnd hnd mnnngod to onlnrgn the kuotholo so that lie oould thrust his paw iu. Ho had fished out grant quantition ol orab, nnd had brokon tho Host up so that it was not worth carrying away. Thoro was a dribble of sweets nil over tho trunk of tho tree, and tho ground itself seemed to bo saturated with louoy. Tho ranchmen wero hot for revongo. J noy wouiu nnvo m onr if thoy had to hunt a month for hinv they nuiil. Then thoy asked thorn- 1 solves, who wants to wntoh two or three nights for a grizzly aud no ouo was witling to undertake tho task. I'hero was much broken comb left in tho hollow trunk. If the boar came iignin ho would thrust his paw into tho snino hole, they rousoued. Thore was a coyoto steol trap that would serve admirably. The ranchmen cut a largo hole on tho opposite sido and pushed tho trap well into the cavity opposite the original kuotholo. A lot of broken comb wne laid over the trap, und the chain was spiked to the trunk. Now, if tho bonr should thrust his paw again into tho sumo hole for honey, his thieving pow would be caught in tho trnp. Uo could not draw tho trap through tho hole. It was a dead opcu-nud-shut gnme. Two nights afterward tho old ranch dog set up an unusual howling. Tho men, on going to tho bee troo, found an enorm ous grizzly hard und fast. Two ot three riileballs finished him. Agricultural Notes. Tho good farmer sees many a har rowing sight. A farmer may be toothless aud yet have many an acre. It makes a farmer have wry fuoe to see his grain crop short. A farmer's face may ho smooth, al though his Holds are furrowed. Tho farmer should nlwnys sleep ia bed, but never in tho celery bed. Sometimds farmer looks as seedy as his farm in tho spring. To farmer corn iu the field is worth much moro than corn on the too. Tho farmer's crop differs from a chicken's and is gouurally more valu able. Homo farmers Are very slow, al though they may buvo auy quantity ol hops. A good farmer likes to turnip the soil, even if ho should gut beet ID doing so. Many a farmer is small potutooe himself though ho raises large ones for tho market. When heifer a farmer starts to rais ing stock he shouldn't let anything oow him in an attempt to bull the market. Florida Times-Union. , Spared. "Well, father, exclaimed the prodi gal son, n he made his appearance agnin at the family ttresido, "ure you ready to kill the fatted calif" "No," replied tbo old man grimly, "I think I'll hit you live." Chicago Post, The Sultan's throne is ot beaten gold, incrustcd with thousauda of ru bies, emeralds and pearls. Accord lug to un insoriptiou on it, the throne skirts in the make up of the fashion-1 was taken by Sultan Bolim from the able toilota of the season, Persian! in 1614 The lteason Why. "I wonder if this new woman movement will result ia tho erection of iiMuument to womou," she said thoughtfully. "It won't," he replied rathei promptly. "I don't aee why," she persisted, "It seuins to me that women have been slighted in' that line. Why shouldn't there be statues of great women a well as great men f " "How would a statue with puffed sleeves look T " "I don't see why it wouldn't look all right," she replied. "But bow would it look after puffed sleeves had gone out ot faahiou 1" he asked. "I never thought ot that," she ans wered. "But I do not see why they could not change the statue at tbe fashions changed ; aud I guess they will do it, too, when women Are in lull control ot tbiugn." Chicago Pott
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers