EMPIRE OF DRESS.
SEWASD llKrOMIXOOAUJIKNTS
UK WOMKN.
AKttllnh Itnnque of C'liovlot Hand
some Cnt0 unit Ilunil of llouole
Cloth for Mines Tho
"I ' ""V BOWK mixed cheviot trmdo
f tbe Alyl'sh tailor finished
J basque, depicted iu tbo first
large illustration. It id dec-
urnted in Intent mode with stitched
totrnps nnJ small gnilt buttons. The
kilove-ntting adjuntmout in accom-
pushed by single bunt darts, under-
nrm esrt J!e buck goron, anil a curv
ing center buck seniu. The cloning it
in the center front, the nenmlers vest
extending to close on left, under the
graduated straps tbnt extcud to lower
edge of front. Tho buck ia provided
with etrape to match, both meeting At
a font teen-year-oM size, 1 yards; for
aixtoeu-yt-nr-old size, 1 ynrda.
I,I)IES' LON(1 OAT.
Tlila ttyli-h top garment commonly
known ns tlio "Nowmarkot," in mitdo
of dnrk, rongh-fnend Cheviot, nnd
dosed with large pearl or lone but
toun. It in pimped According to tho
Intent tnilor modo, tho front baing
widened to fall loosely below tho
hip', conforming in shape to tho fnh
lounhlo skirts. The loone, double
breasted fronts nre deeply faced, mid
reversed At tho top in cunt lapels that
meet thn ends of tho deep, rolling
etonu collnr in notehon. Tho lapels
nnd collar can bo rnied nnil cloned to
tho throat for better protection in in
rlemoiit wvnther. The back nnd sidea
lit nirncly, with nnderarm And side
back pores And a wolhcurvod center
team that eniln in deep cont laps below
tho waist line. Hounded cont plaits
that Are marked bv singlo buttons (jive
nddod fulluenn nt the side back gores,
tho stylish ripplo e licet At the Hides iu
LAMM' IIKPARTMKXT
OHO HAT OHNAMKNTS,
(Inn curious decoration for wintor
huts nnd bonnets is the head of A
chipmunk. This is mounted with its
grinning littlo tuuth nnd port littlo
onrs in tho centre of n tnn-colorcd at
greltn which is fnrthor ornamented
with triangular scraps of fur. Tlieno
Innt b'jar A clono rcsrliiblnnoo to nil
opened chcNtuut burr. Tlio whole is
clono to ii n turn, but it in not at nil np
propriuto for n neat-looking woman's
hendgenr. Now York WorM
WOIIM OVKIlHKritS OP TIIK roon.
Why it in desirable that women bo
elected on tlio llourd of Overseers of
tho I'oor in tlio iowns of Massachu
setts needs no argument. That is tho
kind of work iu which good women
nre ntiturnlly interested and netivo.iind
their special fitness for Mich service
does not admit of challenge. It will
bo for tho public good iu nuy com
munity to put nt lemt olio competent
woman on nil such board. Spring-
llel (Mass.) Republican.
niPPLE BA8QUE-DE3IQXBU Bl MAY MAN TDK.
4he shoulder seam. The shallow cir
cular basque is joined to the lower
edge atarting from tbe darts on front,
the free edges being stitched to match
the straps. The lull gigot sleeves Are
gathered At tbe top And arranged over
comfortable linings, a hollow box-plait
being laid nnderneatb, tbnt extends to
wide ouff depth, with tbo edges caught
down by rows of small buttons. A
close fitting collar finishes tbe neck,
that can olose in frout or on tbe left
shoulder, as preferred. The tailor-
mane gown is me iavonie lor anop
ping or street wear, and this style is
.especially Ohio aad beooming. 8er?o,
cheviot, tweed, camel s hair, crepon or
cloth in the stylish mixtures, checks,
tripes or plain varieties will develop
handsomely by the mode.
v ,TKe quantity 01 44-incu wuie mate
Required to make thia basque for
having a 32-moh bust measure
Varda; for a Sti-iueh eizo, 3 J
Vor a 40-inoh size, 8 yards.
MISSES CAM Wim liOOD.
The stylish cape of bnuole cloth
shown in the second large illustration,
nd designed by May Mantou, is
handsomely lined with plaid silk.
The cape ia shaped in ciroulnr outline,
nd can be worn witn or without a
earn in center back, as best suits the
material. Tbe tbouldrri are smooth,
iLIm AUaJ : .1 .3 . l :i
"Hlls to fashionable length in stylish
les all around. Tbe collar can be
mlr with the fronts rolled as shown,
"cloted higher, or rolled over on cape
the aklrt portion distinguishing the
now modes. The fnll gigot sleeves are
shaped with single eeam, the fullness
t the top being plaited into tbe arm's
eye, a double seam of machine stitoh-
&3
Kill
TBI "MEWMABKBI
ing simulating oiiSs. Fockots are
inserted on eaeh front and concealed
bv laps that are neatly lined and
atitched in tailor style. The edges
can be plaiuly finiahod or machine
stitched as preferred. All kinds ot
rouRU or smooth-faced cloth, tweed,
cheviot, aerge or diagonal in checks,
WOMEN Hrlt'll'.lS.
Ijoiidon tins it woman who claims
tho proud d'trco of Muster of Hnr
gnry. Her nnmo is Miss Limine Al-drich-lllake,
and ' nho linn a brilliiiut
record. LaHt ynur sho took her M. 1.
nnd this year alio panned a HiicciMisful
cxiimiuiitum qualifying her for n du
greo which no womnn hitherto Iihh
gniucd. I'ivo young women in Lon
don will becoiiiu fnll-fludg.'d lliiclielors
of Hurgery this upriug. Amorion has
many women physician", but surgery
is n branch of tlio medical profession
which him had no attraction for them
so far. Now York l'rcaa.
. MI8.-E3' CAPE WITH HOOD.
lined throughout, displaying tbe
pretty plaid silk on its rounded front
dget. The cape ia hooked closely at
the neok, two pointed straps closing
the front edges with bone buttons.
The edges of cape, straps and collar
re finished with maohine atitohing in
tailor style ; but this can be omitted
it plain completion is preferred.
Capes by tbe mode are made of modi
nut and heavy cloaking in plain und
mixed colors, with smooth or rough
faced surface. For early spring cape
ia this style are made ot the dress ma
terial and warmly interlined. The
hood can be finished separately and
hooked on at tho neck when worn, or
omitted when not desired.
The quantity of 51-inch wide mate-
rial (squired to make this cape for
C'rt twt'T jar old i l7rdi; (or
stripes, mixed, plain or fancy weave
will maki stylish, comfortable and
protective ooat for storm or ordinary
everyday wear.
The quantity ot M-iuoh-wide mate'
rial required to make thia ooat for
lady having a 82-inca bust measure ia
0 yards ; for a 83-inoh size, 6 yards ;
for a 4'J-inon aize, 6 yards: for a 42
inch size, 0; yar Is.
HOW VEILS ARB WORX,
Teila are no longer worn with their
superfluous width gathered in folds
under the uhiu, but must be draped
tiny bit below the chin, care being
taken the edge ia always evenly
trimmed. A bitdly worn untidy veil
can literally destroy every virtue
fin hat may poatvi.
HOT WATEII Foil COHPI.RXIOX.
Tho hot-wnter remedy is nlwnys the
best one for mnking tho complexion
bcniitiful. It ia very Himplii nnd
equally snfc, two good points iu its
fuvor. If persisted iu bluckliemls will
soon depnrt nnd tho complexion will
nsmnne tho milk nnd white iippcnrmico
of a baby. Tho hot water treiitmi'Ut
should bo indulged in every night mid
morning. At night tho fnco should bo
bathed in water as hot as one can
Btaud, nnd then thoroughly rubbed
with a good cold cream. lie can fill
to mo a circular motion iu rubbing.
Iu tho morning tho cream may bo
omitted nud tho faou first butluxl in
very hot water nnd then diiHlied with
cold wnter. Tho diet should bo
watched with care. Now York Jour
nal. AN OMELET ( Ll'D.
Eggs, it ia claimed by tho host
authority, are nt nil seasons cheaper
than moat, and they ought to and do
Uud a regular pluoo on tho menu of
most households. 13ut is thoro any
thing mora ofton abused iu tho pro
piring? Auy cook, tho most unex
perienced, will say without hesitntiou
than sho can cook eggs but compara
tively fow bear out the atutumout with
the facts. Ponohed,l)oi!o.l, scrambled,
an omelet how simplo these uiutliodH
sound, yot how ruro is tho perfection
which alouo ia tho excuso for thoir
being oncoiintorod.
Last winter, in ouo of the suburbs,
company of half a dozen young
matrons, happooing to discuss this
mutter in a casual way, decided to
form an omelet club, to exist for only
six weeks, nud whoso purposo should
bo to attain perfection in the prepara
tion of this one dish. Each chute-
laine in turn ontertained tho olub,
und iu chafing dishes, two nt eiicli
luncheon, by two designated members
of the club, omolots, wttu variom
things from paraloy to mushrooms,
wero made and served. Following
the luncheon on each olub day there
was an hour's session, at which various
simple methods of serving eggs were
presented and discussed, iuoludiug
poaohing, scrambling, frying, and
more. Authorities were looked up,
and though, to quote .one of the mem
bers, "I got horribly tired of the
name of eggs," it was suprising how
much we found to oritioisa and im
prove upon in the average household
cooking of them, Now York Times.
sho I no spiritual looking. Yon, puro
while rones by nil menun.
'If it wero Myrtioo C. you were sc-
lecliiig for," added tho nritio, "I
should say send her carnations. They
expross both delicacy nnd strength
end suit that laughing, lively girl to
perfection. Carnations nro nlwnys
fresh nud spicy nud natural looking
moreover they tin vo that lasting qual
ity so denirnblu in a woman, whether
ns friend, sweetheart or wife."
Tlio young man thought over tho
l.'at of his ncquaintiiiico.
"Miirjorio N.ouglilto hnvo violets,"
Im snid, "or mignonette J sho in not
distrnetingly beautiful, hut so worn
11 n I v, ni cluar-oved and fiesli look
ig'" "
Flowers often snggost tho chnrnclers
of thn wearers or rather of those with
whom thoy nro favorites. Ouo droop
ing, slightly conviinptivo girl nlwnys
chooses lilies of thn vnlley, hyacinths,
tnberoseH, nnd other waxy, sweet,
cloying things. On n vigorously
healthy, happy girl theso blossoms
huciii out of placo. They male) tier
robustness nud high spirits seem vul
gar, by their lienvy, sickly sweet
ness. lied roses belong by right divine
to a stately beauty. the woman who is
so 10 to be bri. limit nnd perfect iu
her lino nsthu red rose in in its prov
ince, l'iuk roses nro less exacting in
their requirements. A girl needs only
to be fairly fresh, sweet nnd dainty to
wear them ofTeetivoly. Crmim nnd
yellow rones demand u slightly more
poetical stylo of beauty than their
red and pink sisters not cx ictly tho
lieiiilly of tho cloister, surest ivo of
altars and quint religious lightens tlio
whito rones do, lint n cross between
that nud the mere charm of tho draw
ing room.
Tho young womnn who aspires to
tho unusual, who longs to typify tho
weird and "out of tho ordinary" se
lects orchids as her (low or.
UNITED AMKR1CA.
Westorn Reptiblici Could Form an
Irre3iBtiblo Combination,
Noarly a Million Armed Mon
Roady For Mobilization.
OIBLS AND FLOWERS.
"I want to send Miss D. some flow
era, mother; what would you saleot?"
asked a university mau whose thoughts
ran much more to athlotio sports than
to girls, and who regnrdod his
mother's taste as infallible, says a
writer in tho Now York Tribuue.
"Miss D. ?" niusod the matron.
"That tall girl with the sweet, pale
fuoo? Bend her white roses, not the
creamy ones, the pearly white of that
sort that never seem to open fully.
Miss D. remind me of Saint Cecilia,
FASHION NOTES.
i'lain Jupaiiesu crepes, spotted with
sequins iu small designs, mo girlish,
stylish mid pretty.
Old Dutch chairs nro quito popular
in tho tea rooms of tho mansions of
tho Knickerbockers.
Turkish uud Armenian fans nro in
the market. One tviio of a Turkish
fan has a small dagger in the handle.
Uncurled ostrich feather fain uro
nil tho rago iu England. They nro not
pretty, but they uro very odd nnd ec
centric looking.
French fans nro more novel than
ovi.T.especiiilly the huuil-paiiited gim.o
varieties, which nro jeweled iu tl its,
maud nnd star patterns.
falcuu featiier fans mounted on
sticks mnilo from trees grown upon
noted Southern battlefields, catch tho
cyo of tho curio-soekor.
Jllac'.c satins, with heavy surfaces,
nro in voguo for married women.
They aro richly flowurod with regal
patterns of poppies and chryuautuu
mums.
A cozy corner in a tea room should
bo bounded by duiuty Japanese
scroous, over which uro hung beauti
fill jinoroideiies on orepons, sutins,
satinets uud piueupple cloths.
Luiatuer for dross waists is some
thing uuiquo in tho winter fashions,
It is tau iu color, thin enough to be
pliablo, und is decorated with up
pliquu luce, as if it woro satin or vel
vet. The stock collar for women holds its
own iu a way to guarantee it will bo
fnshioiiublu for a long time to come.
It is untdo of almost every known
material, except, perhaps, oil cloth
uud calico.
Art groon folts mako quaint oarpot-
ings for eoomitrio tea rooms. If tho
walls be papered with lloral patterns,
the effect of the aolors on tho green
background is particularly fresh and
harmonious.
A pretty bonnet of moss-green vel
vet, studded with green, gold and
violet spauglos, has, toward the baok,
abovd tho ears on each side, u mauve
velvet orchid, with spangle and rhine-
stoue rosuttes clustered arouud tbo
short stums.
New bracelets are of tiny gold horse
shoes all strung together. They come
on the eve of tho horse show, and
must appeal to many who devote much
time aud attention to tho "noble aui
nial," especially iu public wheu thore
is au uudieuce.
Oue fuels as though euninior were
always present by the liborully
flowered silks used iu music room,
opera house and drawing room by tbe
belles of tho day. Wreath of small
posies are worn about the huudt, gar
lands of vinos over the shoulders, aud
trui s of wild fluwor on tho dress
Making n grand total, f ho American
republics have to-dny, equipped nnd
Hrmod, over 0(15,000 men, regulars
nnd militia, against thn (!I1-',M)( regu
lar, reserved nnd Auxiliary forces
which tho Uuited Kingdom of (Ircat
liritain has stationed iu England, In
dia nud the colonics. Without ndd
ing n singlo man, volunteering or
drnftod, this sido of tho water thus
Appears to have tin) advantage of
numbers, ns far ns the now organized
land force is concerned.
Chilo tins a standing nrmy about
one-quarter tho sio of ours nnd a
National Ouard of ovor 60,001) moll.
All of these are armed with small cali
ber rifles. Argentina maintains n
standing nrmy ono-third tho sisno of
ours, but sho linn a tremendous Na
tional Ouard, numbering 1101,000
almost three times tho si.n of our or
ganized militia, snys the Washington
correspondent of tho lloston Trans
cript. Hhe has only lately equipped
rself with tho most modern fire-
nrniH, Iter forces alone, II ml led to
ours, would mako tin nrmy of nlmost
A half million, i'eru, although with
smaller force, has likewise pro
cured modern, rilles, not forgetting
her recent defeat by Chilo.
Onu great disadvantage under
which wo would sufTor, if joinod with
tho sister republics against the Uuitud
Kingdom, is tho lack of uniformity of
arms. Jeieli ol tlio noiuu nun unu
trnl American States has its character
istic arm and many doubtless carry
varietv of iinttorna. HuiMioso nil of
the Uuitud States, Central aud South
America worn concentrated for war.
About tweuty-fivo mngaxiuo factorii
might bo require to operate night end
day mnking that many sizes of car
fridges. Each nationality would bo
disabled without its special brand of
Ammunition, because it could not bor
row from a neighboring nrmy using a
ilifTcrnnt shell. Groat I'.ritaiu's iu
fnntry is equipped with a rillo which
will repeat clevon shots. Tho whole
nrinv can bo supplied from ouo fac
tory nud ouo reiuiuut call obtain
new supply of cartridges from uny
other.
(treat liritain lias 81! armored ships
in servico ; wo have but '1 Sho
bull ling 1 1 ; wo but 10. Sho has
addition 188 iiuarmorud ships avail
able; wo but 42. Shu is building 28
nuw vossels of this class while wo arc
builiug 0. In other words Grout lirit
nin hns over four times us many ships
ready for war ns wo hnvo, and is still
building over twico as many ns we
nre. The republics of Central nnd
South America cou'.d furnish us uboiit
200 ships, which when added to ours,
will form a fleet still smaller than that
of Groat liritain. lint John B'.lll
cannot spare all of his fleets from for
oigu waiei'H, for fear of Uussia aud
France.
Brazil's nnvy consists of nineteen
vossels, seven of which uro armored.
Only two of those aro battleships, the
largest having a displacement of 6,700
tons aud an armor belt eleven inches
thick. Besides these, Brazil hus
twenty-two torpedo boats. Sho is also
building cluveu uew naval vessels, four
of which ro to be ironclads. Argen
tina has seventeen ships iu her navy,
five of which nre armored, besides
twenty-one torpedo boats. II jr largest
vossol has a displacement of 4,200 tons
nnd an armor belt of nine inches.
Chilo can add to this eleven vessels
nnd twenty-two torpodo boats. Her
lurgest is a battleship of 0,900 tous,
with a twelvo inch belt. Uruguay can
lend t'eu vessels, three of which aro
gunboats. The nnvios of the remain
ing republics of C-'ntral and South
Amerioa are very insignificant as in
dividuals, but if concentrated would
make quito a large duet to act as com
merce destroyers.
With this combinod navy Uncle
Sam oould ot least defend bis princi
pal seaports. It is thought that this
task would be easy with such power
ful aids as the ram Eatardin and the
monitor Puritan.
llniln (iot flio Henry.
In California tho bocs frequently,
on swarming, tuko to tho woods. Hol
low trees are favorite homes for thorn.
Now, among the tall redwoods that
skirted tlio margin of tho mountain
stream, two or three boo trocs were
found. It was settled Hint one of
tlieno lilvnn nhoitld bo takoii np. The
bole of tlio Iron wns moro than font
font iu diameter. At nbout sixty fool
from tho ground tho boos had found
k not holo and a hollow space. It wai
udgod by tho coming nnd going ol
tho bees that thoro must be large
stock of honey. As tho true was
wanted for timber, nnd had begun to
die at tho top, it was determined to
turn it to account for both honey And
lumber. On a bright moonlight night
tho rauchmeu began on that troo. Io
nbout two hours it oamo down withe
crnsh. A swarm of mad boos boiled
out of the knothole. It was evident
that nothing moro could bo dono that
night. It was plnnnod on tbe noxt
ight to go with tho usual appliances
of sulphur, silence tbo bees, and take
up tho honey.
When tho troo wns reached it wns
certain that nil enemy had boon thcro.
The enemy was evidently a bear, nnd
hnd mnnngod to onlnrgn the kuotholo
so that lie oould thrust his paw iu.
Ho had fished out grant quantition ol
orab, nnd had brokon tho Host up so
that it was not worth carrying away.
Thoro was a dribble of sweets nil over
tho trunk of tho tree, and tho ground
itself seemed to bo saturated with
louoy. Tho ranchmen wero hot for
revongo. J noy wouiu nnvo m onr
if thoy had to hunt a month for hinv
they nuiil. Then thoy asked thorn- 1
solves, who wants to wntoh two or
three nights for a grizzly aud no ouo
was witling to undertake tho task.
I'hero was much broken comb left in
tho hollow trunk. If the boar came
iignin ho would thrust his paw into tho
snino hole, they rousoued. Thore was
a coyoto steol trap that would serve
admirably. The ranchmen cut a
largo hole on tho opposite sido and
pushed tho trap well into the cavity
opposite the original kuotholo. A lot
of broken comb wne laid over the
trap, und the chain was spiked to the
trunk. Now, if tho bonr should thrust
his paw again into tho sumo hole for
honey, his thieving pow would be
caught in tho trnp. Uo could not
draw tho trap through tho hole. It
was a dead opcu-nud-shut gnme. Two
nights afterward tho old ranch dog set
up an unusual howling. Tho men, on
going to tho bee troo, found an enorm
ous grizzly hard und fast. Two ot
three riileballs finished him.
Agricultural Notes.
Tho good farmer sees many a har
rowing sight.
A farmer may be toothless aud yet
have many an acre.
It makes a farmer have wry fuoe
to see his grain crop short.
A farmer's face may ho smooth, al
though his Holds are furrowed.
Tho farmer should nlwnys sleep ia
bed, but never in tho celery bed.
Sometimds farmer looks as seedy
as his farm in tho spring.
To farmer corn iu the field is
worth much moro than corn on the
too.
Tho farmer's crop differs from a
chicken's and is gouurally more valu
able.
Homo farmers Are very slow, al
though they may buvo auy quantity ol
hops.
A good farmer likes to turnip the
soil, even if ho should gut beet ID
doing so.
Many a farmer is small potutooe
himself though ho raises large ones
for tho market.
When heifer a farmer starts to rais
ing stock he shouldn't let anything
oow him in an attempt to bull the
market. Florida Times-Union.
, Spared.
"Well, father, exclaimed the prodi
gal son, n he made his appearance
agnin at the family ttresido, "ure you
ready to kill the fatted calif"
"No," replied tbo old man grimly,
"I think I'll hit you live." Chicago
Post,
The Sultan's throne is ot beaten
gold, incrustcd with thousauda of ru
bies, emeralds and pearls. Accord
lug to un insoriptiou on it, the throne
skirts in the make up of the fashion-1 was taken by Sultan Bolim from the
able toilota of the season, Persian! in 1614
The lteason Why.
"I wonder if this new woman
movement will result ia tho erection
of iiMuument to womou," she said
thoughtfully.
"It won't," he replied rathei
promptly.
"I don't aee why," she persisted,
"It seuins to me that women have
been slighted in' that line. Why
shouldn't there be statues of great
women a well as great men f "
"How would a statue with puffed
sleeves look T "
"I don't see why it wouldn't look
all right," she replied.
"But bow would it look after puffed
sleeves had gone out ot faahiou 1" he
asked.
"I never thought ot that," she ans
wered. "But I do not see why
they could not change the statue at
tbe fashions changed ; aud I guess they
will do it, too, when women Are in
lull control ot tbiugn." Chicago
Pott