FASHION! j |i Designs For Costumes That Have Be- || come Popular in the Metropolis. || iSilllfiilf iffiilif Si NEW YORK CITY (Special).—French blue popliu and polka-dotted crepe de-chine in a paler shade are charm ingly combined in tl'is artistic waist. GIRLS' PINAFORE WAIST. Chenille and silk gimp in both shades of blue furnish the decoration. Fit ted linings support the full gimp cr yoke portion, which is arranged in gathers at the neck and reaches around the arm's-eye. The fronts and back are cut low in pinafore style. They are shaped by under-arm and shoulder seams, which are joined separately, and the neck and arm's eye edges are completed before being slipped over the lining to which the FETE TOILETTE FPU A LADY. full yoke is sewed. Gathers at the waist line give a pretty pouch effect in front and are drawn snugly down in back. The closing is made invisi bly at centre. The neck is finished with a standing collar, to the top of which a frill of the crepe is added. Gathered puffs are arranged at the j top of the upper portion of sleeve linings, the sleeves being cut away in rounded outline and trimmed at the top to correspond with the waist. The wrists are finislibd with flaring cuffs. The waist is joined to a skirt ! of the same material and a sash of the dotted crepe-de-chine is worn around the waist. Very charming combina tions can be carried out by this dressy but simple waist pattern, cashmere and silk trimmed with ruched ribbon being favorite material for young girls. Wool, veiling and challie will also develop charmingly with crepe, liberty silk or mousseline de soie, ruchings of the last-named materials providing suitable decora tion. To make this waist for a girl will require one and one-eighth yards of forty-four-inch material and one and one-eighth of twenty-two-inch material. Ladies' Fete Toilette. Rose gray silk crepon, white lace insertion to match, and narrow satin ribbon in a darker shade of gray, com bined to make the elegant toilette shown in the large engraving, which, although simple in detail, is quite elaborate in effect. The yokes of waist, collar and tops of sleeves are of "all-over" guipure lace, the pointed outline that divides the material from the lace yoke being defined with in sertion applied with "frizzed" satin ribbon on each edge. The back is smooth across the shoulders, the fulness at the lower edge being disposed in plaits that are drawn well to the centre. The front droops slightly, the fulness being gracefully disposed in plaits under the shaped girdle. A pointed overskirt may be worn over a skirt of gray taffeta, the circular flounce o 1 which is covered with a deep gathered flounce of white lace. The overskirt clings closely to the figure at the top and falls in soft ripples to the lower edge, where it is shaped in graceful points in front and back and on the sides. Handsome combinations of material and coloring may be developed by the mode, which is very desirable for foulard, veiling, cashmere, crepon, camel's hair cloth and other clinging fabrics in silk, wool or cotton. To make the waist in the medium size will require one and one-half yards of forty-four-inch material. To make the skirt in the medium size wilt require si* and one-quarter yards of forty-four-inch material. A "Stay" For the Slock Collar. For women addicted to wearing stock collars there is a new "stay" in the market which appears practical. The stay is fastened to the collar but ton in front; the ribbon is attached to the right end of the stay, drawn around and pinned in the back and attached to the left end. The second time around shows the stock, high and smart in effect. Hearts For (lie Sentimental Girl. The old love of hearts is strong as ever. The large Trilby hearts are rather out of style, the tiny designs finding greater favor. Glass, crystal, gold and silver with receptacles for miniatures or a faded flower, dangle on the Cyrano chains, from belt buckle, on coat lapels and wherever there's a chance to hang them. A New Fad For tlie Walnt. Waists terminate at the belt line now. A new fad is to wear soft, nar row silk belts, tied at the left, dis carding the buckle entirely. Ideal Costume For Little Men. This suit of navy blue and whito striped galatea, with broad sailor col lar and shield of plain white, is an ideal costume for little men. On the shield is embroidered an anchor in blue wash silk, and pointed ends of blue ribbon are tied in a sailor knot where the collar meets in tapering points at the front. The blouse is shaped with shoulder and under-arm seams, and may be closed in centre j front or cut without a seam and slipped over the head. The blouse fits smooth ly across the shoulders, the fronts oe ing cut away in V outline to disclose the shield and accommodate the edges of sailor collar. The lower edge is | hemmed, and elastic or tape is in serted to regulate the fulness. The shield is applied to the front of a body lining, shaped with shoulder seams and closed in centre back. The body is provided with buttons that are attached to the buttonholes in the bands of the trousers to form a com fortable support. The trousers are shaped with short hip darts, outside and inside leg seams, and closed at the sides, where pockets are inserted in the usual way. Suits in this style may be of duck, pique, serge, flannel or BOYS' BLOUSE SUIT. cloth. A contrasting color for the collar and shield is a stylish finish. To make this suit for-a boy of eight yeare. will require one and three-quar ters yards of tbirtj-six-inch material. 1)R TALMAGES SEEMON. SUNDAY'S DISCOURSE BR THE NOTED DIVINE. Subject: An Ancient Eplerntn—An Old Saylug Used to Illustrate the Ludicrous Behavior ot Those Who Magnify Small Sins and Ignore Great Ones. [Copyright, Louis Klopsch, 1899.] WASHINGTON, 1). C.—ln this dlsoonrse, founded on an nnclent epigram repeated by Christ, Dr. Talmage Illustrates the folly of being very particular about Insignificant things, while neglectful of vnst concerns. The text Is Matthew xxlll., 21: "Ye blind guides, which strain at a gnat and swallow a camel." A proverb Is compact wisdom, knowledge In ohunks, a library In a sentence, the elec tricity of many clouds discharged in one bolt, a river put through a mill race. When Christ quoteß the proverb of the text, He means to set forth the ludicrous behavior of those who make a great bluster nbout small siD3 and have no appreciation of great ones. In my text a small insect and a large quadruped are brought Into com parison—a gnat and a camel. You have in museum or on the desert seen the lattai, a great awkward, sprawling oroature, with back two stories high and stomach having a collection of reservoirs for desert travel, an animal forbidden to the Jews as food and in many literatures entitled "tho ship of the desert." The gnat spoken of In the text Is In the grub form. It Is born In pool or pond, after a few weeks becomes a chrysalis and then after a few days be comes tho gnat as wo recognizo It. But the Insect spoken of In tho text is in Its very smallest shape, and It yet Inhabits the water, for my text Is a misprint and ought to read "strain out a gnat." My text shows you the prince of Incon sistencies. A man after long observation has formed the suspicion that in a cup of water he is about to drink there Is a grub or the grandparent of a gnat. He goes and gets a slevo or strainer. He takes the water and pours It throughthe stove In tho broad light. Ho says,"l would rather do anything almost than drink this water un til tui-. larva be extirpated." This water Is brought under Inquisition. Tho experi ment Is successful. The water rushes through tho sieve and leaves against the side of tho slevo tho grub or gnat. Then the man carefully removes the Insect and drluks tho water In placidity. But going out one day and hungry, ho devours a "ship of the desert," tho camel, which the Jews were forbidden to oat. Tho gastron omer has no compunctions of conscience. Ho suffers from no Indigestion. Ho puts the lower jaw under tho camel's forefoot and his upper jaw over tho hump of the camel's hack and gives one swallow, and dromedary disappears forever. He strained out a gnat; ho swallowed a camel. While Christ's audience was yet smiling at the oppositeness nnd wit of His illustra tion—for smile they did, uulesa they were too stupid to understand the hyperbole— Christ practicall said to them, "That Is you." Punctilious about small things; reckless about affairs of great inugnltude. No subject ever winced under a surgeon's knife moro bitterly than did tho Pharisees under Christ's scalpel of truth. As an an ntomist will take a human bodv to pieces and put tho pieces under a microscope for examination, so Christ finds His way to thehenrtof tho dead Pharisee aud cuts it out aud puts It under the gluss of inspec tion for all generations to examine. Those Pharisees thought that Christ would Hatter them and compliment them, and how thev must have writhed under the redhot words as He said, "liefools, ye whlted sepulohers, ye blind guides, which strain out a gnat and swallow a cnmel." There are tn our doy a great many gnats strained out and a great many enmeis swal lowed, and it is tho object of this sermon to sketch a few persons who aro extensive ly engaged in that business. First, I remark, that all thoso ministers of tho gospel who are very scrupulous about the conventionalities oi religion, but put no particular stress upon matters of vast Importance, are photographed in the toxt. Church services ought to bo grave and solemn. There Is no room for frivolity in religious convocation. But there are il lustrations, and there aro hyperboles like that of Christ in tho text, that will irradi ate with smiles any intelligent audieuco. There aro men liko thoso bllud guides of the text who advocate only those things In religious service which draw the corners of tho mouth down and denounce all those things which have a tendency to draw tho corners of the mouth up, and these men will goto Installations ami to presbyteries aud to conferences and to associations, their pockets full of fine sieves to strain out the gnats, whilo in their own churches at homo every Sunday there aro fifty people sound asleep. They make their churches a great dormitory, "ind their somulferous sermons aro a cradle and tho drawled out hymns a lullaby, whilcsome wakeful soul In a pow with her fan keeps the flies off unconscious persons approximate. Now, I say it Is worso to sleep in church than to smile in church, for the latter implies at least attention, wlille the formor Implies the indifforence of the hearors and tho stupidity of the speaker. In old nge or from physical Infirmity or from long watching with '.he sick drowsi ness will sometimes overpower one, but when a minister of the gospel looks off upon an audience and finds healthy and intelligent people struggling with drowsi ness It Is time for him to give out the doxology or pronounce tho benediction. The great fault of church services to-day is not too much vivacity, but too much somnolonco. The one Is an irritating gnat that may be easily strained out; tho is a great, sprawling and sleepy eyed camel of the dry desert. I take down from my library the biogra phies of ministers and writers of the past ages, inspired and uninspired, who liavo done the most to bring souls to Jesus Christ, and I find that without a single ex ception they oonsecratod their wit and their humor to Christ. Elijah used It when he advised the Baalites, as they could not make their god respond, to call louder, as their god might bo sound asleep or gono a-buntiug. Job used It when he said to Ms self-coneeltod comforters, "Wisdom will die wl:h you." Christ not only used It in the text, but when Ho Ironically com plimented the corrupt Pharisees, saying, "The wholo need not a physician," and when by one word He described the cun ning of Herod, suying, "Go ye and tell that fox." Matthew Henry's eommenterles from the first page to the last oorruscnted with humor, as summer clouds with heat light ning. Again, my subject photographs all thoso who ore abhorrent of small sin*, while they are reckless In'regard to magnificent thefts. You will find many a merchant who, while he Is so enreful that ho would not take a yard of cloth or a spool of cotton from the counter without paying for It, and who, if a bank cashier should make a mistake and send in a coll of bills $5 too much, would dispatch a messenger In hot haste to re turn the surplus, yet wbo will go Into a stock company, in which after awhile he gets control of tho stock and then wators the stock and makes SIOO ,000 appear like £200,000. He only stole SIOO,OOO by the aperation. Many of the men ot fortune made their wealth in that way. One of these men engaged In such un righteous acts that ovening, the evening of tho very day when he watered the stock, will find a wharf rat stealing a dally paper from the basement doorway and will go out and catch the urchin by the collar and twist the collar so tightly the poor fellow has no power to say that it was thirst for knowledge that led him to the dishonest act, but grip the collar tighter and tighter, saying: "I have been looking for you a long while. You stolo my paper four or Ave times, haven't you, you mis erable wretch?" And then the old (took gambler, with a voice they can hear throe blocks, will cry out, "Police, police!" That same man the evening of the day In wliloh he watered the stock will kneel with his family in prayers and thank Qod for the prosperity of the day, thou kiss his children Rood night with an air which seems to say, "I hope you will all grew up to be as good as your father!" Prisons for sins insectile In size, but palaces for crimes dromedarian. No mercy for sins animalculo in proportion, but great !en lencyfor mastodon Iniquity. A poor boy slyly takes from the basket of a market woman a choke pear, saving some one else from the cholera, and you smother him In the horrible atmosphere of Raymond Street Jail or New York Tomha, while his cousin, who has been skillful enough to steal $50,000 from the city, you make a candidate for the State Legislature. There Is a good deal of uneaeiness and nervousness now among some people in our time who have got unrighteous for tunes, a great deal of uneasiness about dynamite. I tell them that Ood will put under their unrighteous fortunes some thing more explosive than dynamite, the earthquake of His omnipotent indig nation. It Is time that we learn In America that sin is not excusable In proportion as it declares liirge dividends and has out riders in equipage. Many a man Is riding to perdition postilion ahead and lackey behind. To steal one copy of n newspaper Is a gnat; to steal many thousands of dol lars Is a cnmel. There is many a fruit dealer who would uot consent to steal a basket of peaches fiom a neighbor's stall, but who would not soruple to depress the fruit market, and as long as I can re member we have lionrd evory summer the peach crop of Maryland Is a failure, and by the time the crop comes In the mis representation makes a difference of mil lions of dollars. A man who would not steal one basket gt peaches steals 50,000 baskets ot peachos. Go down into the public library, in the reading room, and soo tho newspaper re ports of tho crops from all parts of the country, and tholr phraseology Is very much tho sarae, and the same men wrote them, methodically and infamously carry ing out the huge lying about tho grain crop from year to year and for a score of yearf. After av;blio there will bo a "cor ner" In tho wheat markot, and men who had a contempt for petty theft will burg larize tho wheat bin of a nation and com mit larceuy unon tho American corn crib, and somo of the men will sit in churches and In reformatory institutions trying to strain out tho small gnats of scoundrelism, while In their grain elevators and In tholr storehouses they are fattening huge cauiPls which they expect after awhile to swallow. Society has to lie entirely re constructed on tills subject. Wo nro to find that a sin is Inoxcusable in pro portion as it is great. I know in our time the tendency is to charge reli gious frauds upon good men. They say, "Oh what a liopt of frauds you have in the Church of God in this day!" And when an elder of a church, or a deacon, or a minis ter of the gospel, or a suf erlntcndent of a Sabbath-school turns out a defaulter, what display heads there are In many of tho newspapers. Great primer type. Five line pica. "Another Saint Absconded," "Clerical Scoundrollsm," "llellglon at a Discount," "Sharno on tha Churches," wlille there are a thousand scoundrels out side the church to one leside the church, nn l the misbehavior of those who never see tho Inside of a church Is so great that It is enough to tempt a man to become a Christian to gat out of their company. Unt in all circles, religious and Irreligious, tho tendency Is to excuse sin In proportion as It Is mammoth, l.vcn John Milton In his "Paradise Lost," while he condemns satun, gives such a grand description of him you have hard work to withhold your admira tion. Oh, this straining out of small sins like gnats aud this gulping down great ini quities like camels. The subject does not give tho picture of one or two persons, but Is a gallery In which thousands of people may soo their likenesses. For Instanco, all those people who, while they would not rob their neigh bors of a farthing, npproprluto the money and the treasure of tho public. A man has a house to sell, and ho tolls his customer It is worth ? i 20,060. Next day the assessor comes around, and the owner says It Is worth *15.000. The Government of the United States took o!T tho tax from per sonal Income, among other reasons because so few people would tell tho truth, and many a man with an Income of hundreds of dollars a day made statements which scorned to Imply ho was about to be handed over to tho overseer of tho poor. Careful to pav their pansage from Liverpool to New York, yet smuggling In their Saratoga trunk ten silk dresses from Paris and a half dozen watches from Geneva, telling the custom house officer on the wharf, "Thuro Is nothing In that trunk but wear Ing apparel," and putting a 65 gold piece In his hand to punctuate tho statement. Such persons are also described In ihe text who are very much alarmed aoot t tho small faults of others and have no alarm about their own great transgression?. Thoro are in every community and in every church watcli-dog» who feel called upon to keep their eyes on others and growl. Thoy aro full o' suspicions. T.'-.ey wonder if this man is not dishonest. If that man is not unclean, if there is not some thing wrong about the other man. They nro always the first to hear of anything wrong. Vultures are always the first to smell carrion. They nro self-appointed detectives. I Iny this down as a rule with out any exception that thoso people who have the most faults themselves are most merciless In their watching of others. From scalp of head to sole of foot thoy are full of Jealousies and hypercrltlclsms. But lest too many might think they es cape the scrutiny of tho text I have to tell you tha* we t.ll como under the divine sat lr < when wo make tho questions of time moro prominent than tho questions of eternity. Come, now, let us all go Into tho confessional. Are not all tempted to make the question, Where shall I 's*<» now? greater than tho questloD, Wh*r« shnll I live forever? How shall I got m*re dollars here? greater than tho question, How shall I lay up treasures In heav-n' tho question. How shall I pay my debts toman? greater than the question, Howshall I meet obliga tions to God? the question. How shall I gain the world? greater than tho quest! in. What if I loso my soul? the question Why did God let sin come Into tho world? greater than tho question, How shall I get it extirpated from my nature? tho ques tion, What shnll I do with the twenty or forty or seventy years of my sublunnr ex istence? greater than the question, What shall I do with the millions of cycles of my post terrestrial existence? Time, how small it Is! Eternity, how vast It Is? The former more insignificant In comparison with the latter than a gnat is Insignificant when compared with a camel. Wo dodged tha text. We said, "That does not mean me, nnd that does not mean me," and with a ruinoi*i benevolence we are glvlug the wholo sermon awav. Uut let us all surrender to the charge. What an ado about things here. What poor preparation for a great eternity. As though a m'nnow were larger than a behemoth, as though a swallow took wider circuit than an albatross, as though a nettle were taller than a Lebanon oedar, as though a gnat were greater than a camel, as though a minute wore longer than a century, as though tlmo were higher, deeper, broader than eternity. So the text which flashed with lightning of wit as Christ uttered It Is followed by the crashing thunders of awful catastrophe to those who mako the questions of time greater than the ques tions of the future, the oncoming, over-* shadowing fature. Oh, eternity, eternltf eternity! Chaplains in the British Arir' • In the British army the Church of Eng land has 314 chaplains, the Presbyterian 155, Roman Catholic 288. Wesleyau 153, Baptist live, nnd the total is 915. The recent outbreak of the plague Is the first recorded la Egypt IP flfty-Uvo yeur» The sea-shore is not the only pb.ee where the children's clothes wear out with no apparent reason. When they come from the wash with the colors faded and streaked and worn spots showing where there should be no wear, then something is being used besides Ivory Soap. You can save trouble and expense by using it and nothing else. The lengthened life of one garment will more than pay for the soap. IVORY SOAP —99 4 M00 PER CENT. PURE, CSPVRIQMT 1899 BY THE PROCTER * GAMBLE CO. CINCINNATI Stone Tells Ancient Stories. The wonder of ages has been set tled by a fragment of bas-relief dis covered in Egypt which shows how the obelisks and other large mono liths were transported from the quarry to their site. The stone is depicted upright on a great galley, or vessel, which is being towed by a number of email boats alongside. The method of detaching a mono lith from the mother rock is also ex plained by a semi-detached block in one of the quarries at Syene. After having been hewn clear on three sides, a deep grove was cut into the side still attached to the rock, aud holes were pierced, into which dry wooden pegs were driven. The pegs were then wetted, and the wood in swelling broke of the monolith from tho quarry.—Philadelphia Record. A Spider's Mimical Kar. Daring the entire summer until late in tho autumn a large black bunting spider (Lycosa) dwelt in my piano. When I played andante move ments softly she would come out on the music rack and seem to listen. Her palpi would vibrate with almost inconceivable rapidity, while every QOW and then she would lift her an terior pair of legs and wave them to ind fro and up and down. Just as soon, however, as I commenced a cuaroh or galop she would take to her heels and flee away to her den some where in the interior of the piano, where she would sulk until I enticed her forth with "Traumerei" or Han del's "Largo."—Fron Dr. Wier's "Dawn of Reason." H Best Cough Syrup. Tastes Good. Cae PS U in time. Sold by druggists. pi PERFECT womanhood depends on perfect health. Nature's rarest gifts of physical beauty v«Mi«*h befora pain. Sweet dispositions turn morbid and fretful. The possessions that win good hus- - bands and keep their love should be guard edby women every moment of their lives. r£f?rCCV K The greatest menace to woman's per- m MJB mm iranent happiness in life is the suffering Ww that comes IT om derangement of «hey- — | __ feminine organs. BatLpfJuJ Many thousands of women have realized —« this too late to save their beauty, barely in time io save their lives. Many other thousands have availed of the generous in vitation of Mrs. Pinkhaxn to counsel *ll suffering women fre* of charge. MRS. H. J. GARRETSON, Bound Brook, N. J., writes: "DEAR chronic inflammation of the left could not walk acroso the room without help. After giving up all hopes of recovery. I was advised to use Lydia E. Pinkham's Vegetable Com pound and wrote for special information. I began to improve from the flnt bottle, and am now fully restored to health." When You Want to Look on ih9 Bright Side of Things Use SAPOLIO HEAD ACHE "Both my wife and myself have been using CASC'AKETS and they are the best medicine we have ever had in the house. Last weelt my wife was frantlo with headache for twodaya, she tried some of yourCASCARETS, and they relieved the pain in her head almost Immediately. We both recommend Cascarets." CHA3. STEDEFORD, Pittsburg Safe & Deposit Co., Pittsburc, Pa*, i g CATHARTIC TRAOB MARK R«OI»T*RCD Pleasant. Palatable. Potent. Taste Good. D* Good, Never Sicken, Weaken, or Grlpo. 100 25c.50a ... CURE CONSTIPATION. ... Bttrllof Renrdy Cs«»u.'. Cbln(o, Montreal, Rev Tork. SIT Mn.Tn.Ran Bo'd anrtßliaranteed by all drue- Hlf " I I'-PWb slsis in ITKK Tobacco Habit. Happyi T re o m 6 edyfor ßt l 1 JOHNSON'S MALARIA, CHILLS&FgVER Grippe and Liver Diseases, «jj ' KNOWN Ay, DPf fICIgTS. JOCf ICONTRACT™c UR E I WWII I linu I uprve tronblr or yai anif Write for testimonials, form of contract MALAWI of lllooil I'ooif, llhciimutlc l.lulitnlnm l.lltlc Liver IMIIn, llrniUrrn. Corn llTiuer. U. I'. KTKU.IIAN, Attica, N.Y, nonocv new DISCOVBItY; ri'H fx V s 9 ■ quiok »u>r tid oaiM »o»t ium. B*ok •( 10 dara' tio»l«<»l Free. Dr. «. eaaiM's sows, lu D. Ituali, tag WANTED— Case of bad healih that IM-P-A-K-I will not benefit. Send 6cts.to ltipana Chemical Co., New York, for Hi samples undid*'*) testimonials RyrPATTTn'MTHisPAPEH WHEN HEPLY. I.YLuIN 1-LUiN ISUTOADVTS. NYM'^B9, ' f «o a "ey»',u» tl j Thompson's Eye Wattr RHEUMATISM 4 <535 i'ALEXAVDgRItEMF.DYCo.. 246Greenwloh Bt..y.Y,
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers