FASHION! j
|i Designs For Costumes That Have Be-
|| come Popular in the Metropolis. ||
iSilllfiilf iffiilif Si
NEW YORK CITY (Special).—French
blue popliu and polka-dotted crepe
de-chine in a paler shade are charm
ingly combined in tl'is artistic waist.
GIRLS' PINAFORE WAIST.
Chenille and silk gimp in both shades
of blue furnish the decoration. Fit
ted linings support the full gimp cr
yoke portion, which is arranged in
gathers at the neck and reaches
around the arm's-eye. The fronts and
back are cut low in pinafore style.
They are shaped by under-arm and
shoulder seams, which are joined
separately, and the neck and arm's
eye edges are completed before being
slipped over the lining to which the
FETE TOILETTE FPU A LADY.
full yoke is sewed. Gathers at the
waist line give a pretty pouch effect
in front and are drawn snugly down
in back. The closing is made invisi
bly at centre. The neck is finished
with a standing collar, to the top of
which a frill of the crepe is added.
Gathered puffs are arranged at the j
top of the upper portion of sleeve
linings, the sleeves being cut away
in rounded outline and trimmed at
the top to correspond with the waist.
The wrists are finislibd with flaring
cuffs. The waist is joined to a skirt !
of the same material and a sash of the
dotted crepe-de-chine is worn around
the waist. Very charming combina
tions can be carried out by this
dressy but simple waist pattern,
cashmere and silk trimmed with
ruched ribbon being favorite material
for young girls. Wool, veiling and
challie will also develop charmingly
with crepe, liberty silk or mousseline
de soie, ruchings of the last-named
materials providing suitable decora
tion.
To make this waist for a girl will
require one and one-eighth yards of
forty-four-inch material and one and
one-eighth of twenty-two-inch material.
Ladies' Fete Toilette.
Rose gray silk crepon, white lace
insertion to match, and narrow satin
ribbon in a darker shade of gray, com
bined to make the elegant toilette
shown in the large engraving, which,
although simple in detail, is quite
elaborate in effect. The yokes of
waist, collar and tops of sleeves are
of "all-over" guipure lace, the pointed
outline that divides the material from
the lace yoke being defined with in
sertion applied with "frizzed" satin
ribbon on each edge.
The back is smooth across the
shoulders, the fulness at the lower
edge being disposed in plaits that are
drawn well to the centre. The front
droops slightly, the fulness being
gracefully disposed in plaits under
the shaped girdle.
A pointed overskirt may be worn
over a skirt of gray taffeta, the
circular flounce o 1 which is covered
with a deep gathered flounce of white
lace. The overskirt clings closely to
the figure at the top and falls in soft
ripples to the lower edge, where it is
shaped in graceful points in front and
back and on the sides. Handsome
combinations of material and coloring
may be developed by the mode, which
is very desirable for foulard, veiling,
cashmere, crepon, camel's hair cloth
and other clinging fabrics in silk,
wool or cotton.
To make the waist in the medium
size will require one and one-half
yards of forty-four-inch material. To
make the skirt in the medium size
wilt require si* and one-quarter
yards of forty-four-inch material.
A "Stay" For the Slock Collar.
For women addicted to wearing
stock collars there is a new "stay" in
the market which appears practical.
The stay is fastened to the collar but
ton in front; the ribbon is attached to
the right end of the stay, drawn
around and pinned in the back and
attached to the left end. The second
time around shows the stock, high and
smart in effect.
Hearts For (lie Sentimental Girl.
The old love of hearts is strong as
ever. The large Trilby hearts are
rather out of style, the tiny designs
finding greater favor. Glass, crystal,
gold and silver with receptacles for
miniatures or a faded flower, dangle
on the Cyrano chains, from belt
buckle, on coat lapels and wherever
there's a chance to hang them.
A New Fad For tlie Walnt.
Waists terminate at the belt line
now. A new fad is to wear soft, nar
row silk belts, tied at the left, dis
carding the buckle entirely.
Ideal Costume For Little Men.
This suit of navy blue and whito
striped galatea, with broad sailor col
lar and shield of plain white, is an
ideal costume for little men. On the
shield is embroidered an anchor in
blue wash silk, and pointed ends of
blue ribbon are tied in a sailor knot
where the collar meets in tapering
points at the front. The blouse is
shaped with shoulder and under-arm
seams, and may be closed in centre
j front or cut without a seam and slipped
over the head. The blouse fits smooth
ly across the shoulders, the fronts oe
ing cut away in V outline to disclose
the shield and accommodate the edges
of sailor collar. The lower edge is
| hemmed, and elastic or tape is in
serted to regulate the fulness.
The shield is applied to the front of
a body lining, shaped with shoulder
seams and closed in centre back. The
body is provided with buttons that are
attached to the buttonholes in the
bands of the trousers to form a com
fortable support. The trousers are
shaped with short hip darts, outside
and inside leg seams, and closed at the
sides, where pockets are inserted in
the usual way. Suits in this style may
be of duck, pique, serge, flannel or
BOYS' BLOUSE SUIT.
cloth. A contrasting color for the
collar and shield is a stylish finish.
To make this suit for-a boy of eight
yeare. will require one and three-quar
ters yards of tbirtj-six-inch material.
1)R TALMAGES SEEMON.
SUNDAY'S DISCOURSE BR THE NOTED
DIVINE.
Subject: An Ancient Eplerntn—An Old
Saylug Used to Illustrate the Ludicrous
Behavior ot Those Who Magnify Small
Sins and Ignore Great Ones.
[Copyright, Louis Klopsch, 1899.]
WASHINGTON, 1). C.—ln this dlsoonrse,
founded on an nnclent epigram repeated
by Christ, Dr. Talmage Illustrates the folly
of being very particular about Insignificant
things, while neglectful of vnst concerns.
The text Is Matthew xxlll., 21: "Ye blind
guides, which strain at a gnat and swallow
a camel."
A proverb Is compact wisdom, knowledge
In ohunks, a library In a sentence, the elec
tricity of many clouds discharged in one
bolt, a river put through a mill race. When
Christ quoteß the proverb of the text, He
means to set forth the ludicrous behavior
of those who make a great bluster nbout
small siD3 and have no appreciation of
great ones. In my text a small insect and
a large quadruped are brought Into com
parison—a gnat and a camel. You have in
museum or on the desert seen the lattai, a
great awkward, sprawling oroature, with
back two stories high and stomach having
a collection of reservoirs for desert travel,
an animal forbidden to the Jews as food
and in many literatures entitled "tho ship
of the desert." The gnat spoken of In the
text Is In the grub form. It Is born In pool
or pond, after a few weeks becomes a
chrysalis and then after a few days be
comes tho gnat as wo recognizo It. But
the Insect spoken of In tho text is in Its
very smallest shape, and It yet Inhabits the
water, for my text Is a misprint and ought
to read "strain out a gnat."
My text shows you the prince of Incon
sistencies. A man after long observation
has formed the suspicion that in a cup of
water he is about to drink there Is a grub
or the grandparent of a gnat. He goes
and gets a slevo or strainer. He takes the
water and pours It throughthe stove In tho
broad light. Ho says,"l would rather do
anything almost than drink this water un
til tui-. larva be extirpated." This water
Is brought under Inquisition. Tho experi
ment Is successful. The water rushes
through tho sieve and leaves against the
side of tho slevo tho grub or gnat. Then
the man carefully removes the Insect and
drluks tho water In placidity. But going
out one day and hungry, ho devours a
"ship of the desert," tho camel, which the
Jews were forbidden to oat. Tho gastron
omer has no compunctions of conscience.
Ho suffers from no Indigestion. Ho puts
the lower jaw under tho camel's forefoot
and his upper jaw over tho hump of the
camel's hack and gives one swallow, and
dromedary disappears forever. He strained
out a gnat; ho swallowed a camel.
While Christ's audience was yet smiling
at the oppositeness nnd wit of His illustra
tion—for smile they did, uulesa they were
too stupid to understand the hyperbole—
Christ practicall said to them, "That Is
you." Punctilious about small things;
reckless about affairs of great inugnltude.
No subject ever winced under a surgeon's
knife moro bitterly than did tho Pharisees
under Christ's scalpel of truth. As an an
ntomist will take a human bodv to pieces
and put tho pieces under a microscope for
examination, so Christ finds His way to
thehenrtof tho dead Pharisee aud cuts it
out aud puts It under the gluss of inspec
tion for all generations to examine. Those
Pharisees thought that Christ would Hatter
them and compliment them, and how thev
must have writhed under the redhot words
as He said, "liefools, ye whlted sepulohers,
ye blind guides, which strain out a gnat
and swallow a cnmel."
There are tn our doy a great many gnats
strained out and a great many enmeis swal
lowed, and it is tho object of this sermon
to sketch a few persons who aro extensive
ly engaged in that business.
First, I remark, that all thoso ministers
of tho gospel who are very scrupulous
about the conventionalities oi religion, but
put no particular stress upon matters of
vast Importance, are photographed in the
toxt. Church services ought to bo grave
and solemn. There Is no room for frivolity
in religious convocation. But there are il
lustrations, and there aro hyperboles like
that of Christ in tho text, that will irradi
ate with smiles any intelligent audieuco.
There aro men liko thoso bllud guides of
the text who advocate only those things In
religious service which draw the corners
of tho mouth down and denounce all
those things which have a tendency to
draw tho corners of the mouth up, and
these men will goto Installations ami to
presbyteries aud to conferences and to
associations, their pockets full of fine
sieves to strain out the gnats, whilo in
their own churches at homo every Sunday
there aro fifty people sound asleep. They
make their churches a great dormitory,
"ind their somulferous sermons aro a cradle
and tho drawled out hymns a lullaby,
whilcsome wakeful soul In a pow with her
fan keeps the flies off unconscious persons
approximate. Now, I say it Is worso to
sleep in church than to smile in church,
for the latter implies at least attention,
wlille the formor Implies the indifforence
of the hearors and tho stupidity of the
speaker.
In old nge or from physical Infirmity or
from long watching with '.he sick drowsi
ness will sometimes overpower one, but
when a minister of the gospel looks off
upon an audience and finds healthy and
intelligent people struggling with drowsi
ness It Is time for him to give out the
doxology or pronounce tho benediction.
The great fault of church services to-day
is not too much vivacity, but too much
somnolonco. The one Is an irritating
gnat that may be easily strained out; tho
is a great, sprawling and sleepy
eyed camel of the dry desert.
I take down from my library the biogra
phies of ministers and writers of the past
ages, inspired and uninspired, who liavo
done the most to bring souls to Jesus
Christ, and I find that without a single ex
ception they oonsecratod their wit and
their humor to Christ. Elijah used It when
he advised the Baalites, as they could not
make their god respond, to call louder, as
their god might bo sound asleep or gono
a-buntiug. Job used It when he said to
Ms self-coneeltod comforters, "Wisdom
will die wl:h you." Christ not only used
It in the text, but when Ho Ironically com
plimented the corrupt Pharisees, saying,
"The wholo need not a physician," and
when by one word He described the cun
ning of Herod, suying, "Go ye and tell that
fox." Matthew Henry's eommenterles from
the first page to the last oorruscnted with
humor, as summer clouds with heat light
ning.
Again, my subject photographs all thoso
who ore abhorrent of small sin*, while they
are reckless In'regard to magnificent thefts.
You will find many a merchant who, while
he Is so enreful that ho would not take a
yard of cloth or a spool of cotton from the
counter without paying for It, and who, if
a bank cashier should make a mistake and
send in a coll of bills $5 too much, would
dispatch a messenger In hot haste to re
turn the surplus, yet wbo will go Into a
stock company, in which after awhile he
gets control of tho stock and then wators
the stock and makes SIOO ,000 appear like
£200,000. He only stole SIOO,OOO by the
aperation. Many of the men ot fortune
made their wealth in that way.
One of these men engaged In such un
righteous acts that ovening, the evening of
tho very day when he watered the stock,
will find a wharf rat stealing a dally paper
from the basement doorway and will go
out and catch the urchin by the collar and
twist the collar so tightly the poor fellow
has no power to say that it was thirst for
knowledge that led him to the dishonest
act, but grip the collar tighter and tighter,
saying: "I have been looking for you a
long while. You stolo my paper four
or Ave times, haven't you, you mis
erable wretch?" And then the old
(took gambler, with a voice they
can hear throe blocks, will cry
out, "Police, police!" That same
man the evening of the day In
wliloh he watered the stock will kneel with
his family in prayers and thank Qod for
the prosperity of the day, thou kiss his
children Rood night with an air which
seems to say, "I hope you will all grew up
to be as good as your father!" Prisons
for sins insectile In size, but palaces for
crimes dromedarian. No mercy for sins
animalculo in proportion, but great !en
lencyfor mastodon Iniquity. A poor boy
slyly takes from the basket of a market
woman a choke pear, saving some one else
from the cholera, and you smother him In
the horrible atmosphere of Raymond
Street Jail or New York Tomha, while his
cousin, who has been skillful enough to
steal $50,000 from the city, you make a
candidate for the State Legislature.
There Is a good deal of uneaeiness and
nervousness now among some people in
our time who have got unrighteous for
tunes, a great deal of uneasiness about
dynamite. I tell them that Ood will put
under their unrighteous fortunes some
thing more explosive than dynamite, the
earthquake of His omnipotent indig
nation. It Is time that we learn In America
that sin is not excusable In proportion as
it declares liirge dividends and has out
riders in equipage. Many a man Is riding
to perdition postilion ahead and lackey
behind. To steal one copy of n newspaper
Is a gnat; to steal many thousands of dol
lars Is a cnmel. There is many a fruit
dealer who would uot consent to steal a
basket of peaches fiom a neighbor's stall,
but who would not soruple to depress the
fruit market, and as long as I can re
member we have lionrd evory summer the
peach crop of Maryland Is a failure, and
by the time the crop comes In the mis
representation makes a difference of mil
lions of dollars. A man who would not
steal one basket gt peaches steals 50,000
baskets ot peachos.
Go down into the public library, in the
reading room, and soo tho newspaper re
ports of tho crops from all parts of the
country, and tholr phraseology Is very
much tho sarae, and the same men wrote
them, methodically and infamously carry
ing out the huge lying about tho grain
crop from year to year and for a score of
yearf. After av;blio there will bo a "cor
ner" In tho wheat markot, and men who
had a contempt for petty theft will burg
larize tho wheat bin of a nation and com
mit larceuy unon tho American corn crib,
and somo of the men will sit in churches
and In reformatory institutions trying to
strain out tho small gnats of scoundrelism,
while In their grain elevators and In tholr
storehouses they are fattening huge
cauiPls which they expect after awhile to
swallow. Society has to lie entirely re
constructed on tills subject. Wo nro
to find that a sin is Inoxcusable in pro
portion as it is great. I know in our
time the tendency is to charge reli
gious frauds upon good men. They say,
"Oh what a liopt of frauds you have in the
Church of God in this day!" And when an
elder of a church, or a deacon, or a minis
ter of the gospel, or a suf erlntcndent of a
Sabbath-school turns out a defaulter, what
display heads there are In many of tho
newspapers. Great primer type. Five
line pica. "Another Saint Absconded,"
"Clerical Scoundrollsm," "llellglon at a
Discount," "Sharno on tha Churches,"
wlille there are a thousand scoundrels out
side the church to one leside the church,
nn l the misbehavior of those who never
see tho Inside of a church Is so great that
It is enough to tempt a man to become a
Christian to gat out of their company.
Unt in all circles, religious and Irreligious,
tho tendency Is to excuse sin In proportion
as It Is mammoth, l.vcn John Milton In his
"Paradise Lost," while he condemns satun,
gives such a grand description of him you
have hard work to withhold your admira
tion. Oh, this straining out of small sins
like gnats aud this gulping down great ini
quities like camels.
The subject does not give tho picture of
one or two persons, but Is a gallery In
which thousands of people may soo their
likenesses. For Instanco, all those people
who, while they would not rob their neigh
bors of a farthing, npproprluto the money
and the treasure of tho public. A man has
a house to sell, and ho tolls his customer It
is worth ? i 20,060. Next day the assessor
comes around, and the owner says It Is
worth *15.000. The Government of the
United States took o!T tho tax from per
sonal Income, among other reasons because
so few people would tell tho truth, and
many a man with an Income of hundreds
of dollars a day made statements which
scorned to Imply ho was about to be handed
over to tho overseer of tho poor. Careful
to pav their pansage from Liverpool to
New York, yet smuggling In their Saratoga
trunk ten silk dresses from Paris and a
half dozen watches from Geneva, telling
the custom house officer on the wharf,
"Thuro Is nothing In that trunk but wear
Ing apparel," and putting a 65 gold piece
In his hand to punctuate tho statement.
Such persons are also described In ihe
text who are very much alarmed aoot t tho
small faults of others and have no alarm
about their own great transgression?.
Thoro are in every community and in
every church watcli-dog» who feel called
upon to keep their eyes on others and
growl. Thoy aro full o' suspicions. T.'-.ey
wonder if this man is not dishonest. If that
man is not unclean, if there is not some
thing wrong about the other man. They
nro always the first to hear of anything
wrong. Vultures are always the first to
smell carrion. They nro self-appointed
detectives. I Iny this down as a rule with
out any exception that thoso people who
have the most faults themselves are most
merciless In their watching of others.
From scalp of head to sole of foot thoy are
full of Jealousies and hypercrltlclsms.
But lest too many might think they es
cape the scrutiny of tho text I have to tell
you tha* we t.ll como under the divine sat
lr < when wo make tho questions of time
moro prominent than tho questions of
eternity. Come, now, let us all go Into tho
confessional. Are not all tempted to make
the question, Where shall I 's*<» now?
greater than tho questloD, Wh*r« shnll I
live forever? How shall I got m*re dollars
here? greater than tho question, How shall
I lay up treasures In heav-n' tho question.
How shall I pay my debts toman? greater
than the question, Howshall I meet obliga
tions to God? the question. How shall I gain
the world? greater than tho quest! in.
What if I loso my soul? the question Why
did God let sin come Into tho world?
greater than tho question, How shall I get
it extirpated from my nature? tho ques
tion, What shnll I do with the twenty or
forty or seventy years of my sublunnr ex
istence? greater than the question, What
shall I do with the millions of cycles of my
post terrestrial existence? Time, how small
it Is! Eternity, how vast It Is? The former
more insignificant In comparison with the
latter than a gnat is Insignificant when
compared with a camel. Wo dodged tha
text. We said, "That does not mean me,
nnd that does not mean me," and with a
ruinoi*i benevolence we are glvlug the
wholo sermon awav.
Uut let us all surrender to the charge.
What an ado about things here. What poor
preparation for a great eternity. As though
a m'nnow were larger than a behemoth, as
though a swallow took wider circuit than
an albatross, as though a nettle were taller
than a Lebanon oedar, as though a gnat
were greater than a camel, as though a
minute wore longer than a century, as
though tlmo were higher, deeper, broader
than eternity. So the text which flashed
with lightning of wit as Christ uttered It
Is followed by the crashing thunders of
awful catastrophe to those who mako the
questions of time greater than the ques
tions of the future, the oncoming, over-*
shadowing fature. Oh, eternity, eternltf
eternity!
Chaplains in the British Arir' •
In the British army the Church of Eng
land has 314 chaplains, the Presbyterian
155, Roman Catholic 288. Wesleyau 153,
Baptist live, nnd the total is 915.
The recent outbreak of the plague Is the
first recorded la Egypt IP flfty-Uvo yeur»
The sea-shore is not the only pb.ee where the
children's clothes wear out with no apparent reason.
When they come from the wash with the colors faded
and streaked and worn spots showing where there
should be no wear, then something is being used besides
Ivory Soap. You can save trouble and expense by using
it and nothing else. The lengthened life of one garment
will more than pay for the soap.
IVORY SOAP —99 4 M00 PER CENT. PURE,
CSPVRIQMT 1899 BY THE PROCTER * GAMBLE CO. CINCINNATI
Stone Tells Ancient Stories.
The wonder of ages has been set
tled by a fragment of bas-relief dis
covered in Egypt which shows how
the obelisks and other large mono
liths were transported from the quarry
to their site. The stone is depicted
upright on a great galley, or vessel,
which is being towed by a number of
email boats alongside.
The method of detaching a mono
lith from the mother rock is also ex
plained by a semi-detached block in
one of the quarries at Syene. After
having been hewn clear on three
sides, a deep grove was cut into the
side still attached to the rock, aud
holes were pierced, into which dry
wooden pegs were driven. The pegs
were then wetted, and the wood in
swelling broke of the monolith from
tho quarry.—Philadelphia Record.
A Spider's Mimical Kar.
Daring the entire summer until
late in tho autumn a large black
bunting spider (Lycosa) dwelt in my
piano. When I played andante move
ments softly she would come out on
the music rack and seem to listen.
Her palpi would vibrate with almost
inconceivable rapidity, while every
QOW and then she would lift her an
terior pair of legs and wave them to
ind fro and up and down. Just as
soon, however, as I commenced a
cuaroh or galop she would take to her
heels and flee away to her den some
where in the interior of the piano,
where she would sulk until I enticed
her forth with "Traumerei" or Han
del's "Largo."—Fron Dr. Wier's
"Dawn of Reason."
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PERFECT womanhood depends on perfect health.
Nature's rarest gifts of physical beauty v«Mi«*h befora
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Sweet dispositions turn morbid and fretful.
The possessions that win good hus- -
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The greatest menace to woman's per- m MJB mm
iranent happiness in life is the suffering Ww
that comes IT om derangement of «hey- — | __
feminine organs. BatLpfJuJ
Many thousands of women have realized —«
this too late to save their beauty, barely in time io save their
lives. Many other thousands have availed of the generous in
vitation of Mrs. Pinkhaxn to counsel *ll suffering women fre*
of charge.
MRS. H. J. GARRETSON, Bound Brook, N. J., writes: "DEAR
chronic inflammation of the left
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I was advised to use Lydia E. Pinkham's Vegetable Com
pound and wrote for special information. I began to improve
from the flnt bottle, and am now fully restored to health."
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RHEUMATISM 4 <535
i'ALEXAVDgRItEMF.DYCo.. 246Greenwloh Bt..y.Y,