M— atFORTnc'HOME DRESSMAKEITJB ■' For The Younger Contingent— By May Manton JUST now with Autumn giving us a few cool dayi to suggest that will come later, the wardrobes of the younger folk seem to make an especial insistent demand. Such a coat as the one shown in the picture above means warmth and satisfactory comfort throughout the season. It is so simple any mother can make it herself and it shows the very newest and smartest line#. The pretty, big collar makes a very becoming feature, and on very cold days it can be but toned up more closely about the The Season's Needs Are Varied—By May Manton Wefuits have, no doubt, returned to Wef their own. They are being ex- Wef tensively ordered and they will be extensively worn, but not infre quently, in place of the coat with skirt, there is a coat and a gown. Women have found the simple gowns ex* tremely comfortable and satisfactory as well as in every way attractive. Just now, when there are so many oc cupations and so many calls upon time, economy of that valuable possession is earnestly considered. Since the one piece gown can be slipped on and off with far greater ease and celerity than the separate skirt and blouse, it is easy to understand why it should be gaining favor just at this time. Without doubt, the high choker collar is pushing its way. Away back in August, some daring dealers ex ploited gowns for young girls with plain, nearly fitted, bodices, high, choker collars and back closings, and they were looked upon with question and with doubt, but this week, one of the thoroughfares given over to cos tumes for the younger contingent, is shoving a generous number of them. Today, an extremely smartly dressed young woman was met upon the street wearing a street frock of jersey in a 1 fascinating shade of purple that was made just in that way. The turned over portions of the collar were of ' purple silk and faced with chiffon to be soft and becoming. For the most part, these collars are not boned but are draped a little about the throat, but the boned collar also has appeared, and, while they will not be general foe some time, it is quite evident that the high collar and the back closing both are determined to take a place in the fashionable world. A very beautiful gown that comes from the house of Lanvin and which ememplifies several of the new features, is made in that simple one-piece style referred to above, with the upper portion of beige colored • crtpe and the lower portion of blue broadcloth. The broadcloth also makes the girdle that is arranged in the moat individual manner, also the high collar that it finished with a deep, turned over portion and closed at the front. There are lovely shaped sleeves . in this gown, and the line on which the two materials are joined, is dis tinctly French and beautiful, but at the moment, we are considering the high collar* and it is of especiai value as emphasising their advent. As a matter of fact, the high necks and col lars are especially good for the street J rr < \Vhilp hnve worn onnn throat to become a muffler. As you 6ee it here, it is made of a rough cloth with broadcloth making the trimming, it is a combination that is much liked, but the model is a good one for velours cloth and for broadcloth and for all cloaking materials that are light enough in weight to allow of the plaited sides. The cheviot illustrated is the shower proof sort that makes it especi ally desirable for school wear. Over-bodices are much in demand necks upon the street and we have grown accustomed to the, there is an especial smartness and distinction about the costume that covers the throat when exposed to public gaze. When we find such houses as Lanvin and Jenny sponsoring the idea, it is quite certain to gain its way with the general public. A charming gown of black velvet exhibited by an importer and bearing the magic name of "Jenny , is nvde with n high collar that is really a frill standing up about the face but plain at the back and fluted at the side 9 and front. It is open a little at the front so that the head can be turned- without crushing it, just to the width of the narrow panel that widens a trifle as !t ap proaches the waist line and narrow ends in wedge shape on the skirt. The little panel inset or vest, as one may like to call it, is of white cr£pe de chine and the gown, itself is of black velvet. There are other details, as a matter of course, but the collar, the color com bination, and the fact that the sleeves are in the genuine Chinese kimono style, are the features to be empha sised just now. As has been stated atrain and again, a gre.it deal of fur is used as trimming and in various ways, and a generous amount of fur began to seem almost a necessity for style, but within the past few days there has been shown at by dealers of the highest class some mar velously attractive scarfs and muffs and accessories that are of material fur trimmed. They are very charming and the idea can be utilised in number less ways. A very pretty set consists of ; muff and a straight scarf that is draped close abfiut the throat of duvetyn in an exquisite shade that is neither grey nor sand, but it is trimmed with bands of beaver to be very beau tiful as wel as warm and comfortable. A set that would be adapted .to the very dressy afternoon costume, is made of a very wonderful brocaded ribbon with fur bands, and it seems likely that the idea of the scarfs and neckoieces will be used in various ways. We may talk as we like about the demand. We cannot have more than the supply. The Government has larcady stated that much of the less expensive fur will be needed for the men who will fight from the skies and in various ways that will mean comfort to those who have gone forth to fight the battle of right. Surely, it is a small self-denial to content ourselves with less at home if by so doing we leave the supply freer for them for the grownups and as a natural con sequence they are much in demand for the younger contingent also. The pretty little frock shown on the skating girl is made with one such and it makes an especially practical suggestion be cause of the combination of materials. As you see it there, the over-bodice and skirt match while the blouse and trim ming are different, but a pretty frock could be made to give a quite different result by making the blouse and skirt of one material and the over-bodice of another. You will find the model a THERE are many ways in which this present season is an unusual one. It is bringing an excep tional demand for the practical and the serviceable, and it is calling atten tion to the need for value for money received. It is doing away with the foolish and the frivolous. In the picture to the right are shown serviceable, practical garments, avail able for a variety of needs. There is no prettier model for the blouse to be worn with the coat suit or for the blouse that makes part of the simpler afternoon costume than the one that is shown up in the left hand corner. It is really an over-bodice in surplice style with a plain blouse beneath, and because it is made in that way you can make it all of one material or of two As it is shown here, it is made of crtp? de chine with satin trimming, and it is designed to match the suit with which it would be worn. For an afternoon costume it would be pretty to make the blouse of crGpe de chine or of the chiffon,that is being extensively worn this season, and the over-bodice and some pretty simple skirt of charmeuse or similar material. The apron at the extreme right of the picture is a very new one. It is practical, it is serviceable, it is pretty withal, and it leands a certain dignity to the task for which it is donned. The shoulder straps are extended across the back. They can be buttoned together or stitched and the apron slipped on over the head, but the belt must be closed with a button and button-hole. Real warm, comfortable deeping garments are an absolute essential lor little children. The night gown and drawer# that are shown here will be sure to win approval from sensible mothers. They can be made from flannelette or from unshrinkable flan nel or from Domet flannel or any similar material or they can, of course, be made from the lighter long cloth or cotton, but for the most part, the younger contingent sleep more snugly and comfortably in warmer garments. The square' neck for the little night gown is apt to be satisfactory even in cold weather, but you can make it high with a collar and long sleeves, and (or strength you can apply a yoke over it if you like. In any cape, it remain* absolutely simple and ruperiauy •rlantM • '• • good one for gingham and materials of such sort as well as for the light weight wools and for the taffeta that a!way* makes pretty afternoon dresses. How to dress the littleboy who is just graduating from rompers is apt to be something of a problem and the little suit shown here will help to solve it. It can be worn up to the mature age of six years, but it is quite appro priate for the little boy of two. The trousers are buttoned to the blouse beneath the belt. • # \£r JU V ' ' ' * • K * , * / CHILDREN S fashions are mar velously attractive just now. There is just a Httle element of quaintness about many of the designs for more dressy occasions that renders them fascinating, and even the most practical, serviceable dresses of school wear and the coats of every day use are rendrcd a bit unusual either by a combinations of materials or some color effect or treatment that lifts them out of the commonplace. For school, the wisest mothers are apt to to feel that the washable materials are the best at all seasons of the year, and gingham and chambray and cot ton poplin and linen and fabrics of such sort are in demand. They are to be found in very beautiful colors and designs, and there are a great many materials that sell under fancy names that add to the variety. The wash able dresses have the great advantage of becoming new after each washing and are not alone the most healthful but also the most attractive. The little model that is shown in the illus tration makes a good example of how fabrics can be treated and also how a simple design can be converted to many i.sei, for you can copy it in a washable material or you can copy it in taffeta or you can copy it in serge with taffeta. Numberless mothers will be making frocks at home this season. This con sistently increasing cost of living and of necessities has brought about that im portant economical step. Children s 'rocks that are made of good material and well sewed will endure infinitely more usage than those that are made of the lesser materials apt to be found in the reday-made garments. The ginghams are very charming and at tractive and there are really marvelous colors offered in cotton and in linen. A favorite combination and a very pretty one is dark blue with touches of buff. One sees it not alone in dresses but in coats. For ezample, the coat on the little girl at the left would be very smart made of blue duvetyn or other cloth with buff collar and buff straps, and if you want to make a very fashionable finish at almost no cost, finish the edges of the collar and the cuffs with irregular button-holing done with heavy worsted using a blue to match the coat on a buff background. All sorts of simple fancy stitchery is in vogue. Irregular button-holing is much liked as finish for edges, chain stitching and feather stitching all are used, so that really fashion seems to have considered the need of the mo ment and to have supplied just the designs that are the easiest for mothers to carry out. For the coats, there are durable rough cloths that are always pretty on children, duvetyn and velours cloth are very beautiful and there are a variety of other fabrics. For s small child only a little is needed and even if the cloth is expensive, the coat can be obtained for a very moderate sum. Such little touches as the hand* but ton-holed edge mean distinction and just the quality that is found in the finest, best and most costly of the imported models. Serge is always a standby for school dresses and is gen erally used in combination with taffeta or with satin or with something to lighten it somewhat. The plaited skirt that is shown in the dress illustrated is especially worthy of note for plaits are among the new features and plaits are found both in frocks and in coats designed for the younger contingent. Fur is, of course, being extensively used as trim ming on coats, but it need not neces sarily be fur in large quantity. A great many mothers object to fur col lars from the standpoint of health. They are apt to heat the throat exces sively and to give a tendency toward cold. Such a collar as the one illus trated with a band or even with just an edge of simple fur such as beaver would make a smart effect, and if you repeat the fur on the cuffs and cover the buttons arith odd bits you will have a very smart effect for a Very moderate cost. Every possible kind of fur ! s being used but beaver and nutria al ways are favorites for children. They are essentially childlike in effect and quite neutral tones are exceedingly pretty in contrast with the bright colors we are apt to like for the little folk's garments. Hats this season, however, are sur prisingly dark in color, brown and black and dark blue are shown more frequently than any other colors. The velours hats appear in a lovely castor shade that is beautiful but there seems a rather astonishing lack of what we regard as the essentially childlike colors, and one meets a great many of the best dressed children wearing black hats. The tarns, however, that are designed for skating and for school 'and for uch use are just at bright ai can be as if to compensate. A vivid scarlet i* liked and scarlet always gives a picturesque note to the child s cos tume. , There is a very notable tendency tottard using two materials for a single frock, and that fact is always a helpful one when economy must be considered and remaking taken into consideration A very new model and one that is prom ised great popularity shows a little bolero jacket and plaited skirt with a sleeveless blouse. It is charming made from almost any material. You can think of it made of cotton poplin for school with the blouse of lawn, and you can think of it made with a serge skirt and a taffeta jacket with a blouse of crtpe de chine, and you can think of it made all of serge with the corners of the jacket embroidered with a little worsted and the big white collar of the blouse turned over onto it to give relief. With such a little dress a sash either of the material or of soft silk would make a pretty finish. If you make a sash of the material yo'.i could embroider the ends to match the jacket. Heavy worsted thread* arc especially smart for the embroidery. They fill up very rapidly and to be really fashionable you must use a simple design, so that the work if scarcely appreciable while the result H always a good one. Sometimes skirti of this sort'are gathered and, of course, gathers are to be preferred for lighter materials. A very charming little dress could be made with a gathered skirt and blouse of cr£pe de chine and just the jacket of velvet or of silk. Children s fashions always follow the trend of their elders and consequently, some very pretty little dresses are shown with surplice closings, and some of the very newest show sashes of the same material that are dropped a little below the waist line at the back and tied with a big bow knot that we call the Obi, because it is seen holding the Japanese kimono, but dropped a little below the waist line to give just a hint of that drapery at the back or bustle effect that makes the latest cry in the fashions for grown-ups. You can make gingham in this way and you can make taffeta in this way. As stated above there is scarcely a single model that cannot be used for cotton material for school and for silk material for after noon to be equally appropriate in both.
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