THE SCKANTON TRIBUNE- SATOBDAY" MORNING, SEPTEMBER 12, 189C. 9 IN THE ZENITH OF NATURE'S BEAUTY Sctolc Loveliness of England' Cute ' Little Isle of Wight. DURINQ REGATTA WEEK AT COWES . Mint Kaiser Describes Haw 8hc Passed a Summer's Vacation in the Swellest of British Summering PlacesEiciting Strolls on a Sea MallHunting Shrimps Barefooted Ventnor'a Hills and Cowes' Fnstidi oasnessVictoria Itccina and Li Hnng Chang. Correspondence of The Tribune. Isle of Wight, Aug. 17. Having been engaged, some weeks ago, for a series of concerts on the Isle of Wight, I have become, this summer, more thor oughly acquainted with this cute llt tl Island than I ever fancied I should be, for I had never expected to see this Yirrtt V unrl OYolllutvA 1U1a tilnna nf tha world; and, until some time ago, I never would have thought that I should have such abundant opportun ity for studying tills charming little Spot oft the south coast of England. It certainly is an interesting little bit of ' geography, beloved alike by the antiquarian and the modern enthusiast. There are several old castles In ruins, and some occupied even now on tho island, which churm the heart of those tourists (Who delight in the mouldy smell of damp old stones, matted over with century-old Ivy and haunted still by the shades of the brave knight and faire ladeys of old, while Cowe?, with Its different royalties, nobles anil aristocrats of all countries, with the smart yachts which they bring here for the regatta week races, Is certainly vp to date and swagger enough to suit the! very bellest of American brlb s. bo she ever so gay. Surely the Kngllsh jeople were kind Indued to tholr repro bate King Charles I, when they shut Jilm up In old Cnusbrook castle here, surrounded as It is by the loveliest lit tle bits of woodland I ever saw (we are shown to this day tho little win dow, out of which he wriggled his royal body when he escaped and lied to Scotland) and surely Her Majesty, the astute little old Mrs. Oteat Hritain and Ireland, knew what she was doing when she Invested In Onborne castle and grounds, and made It a summer home for herself and her children, some fifty years ngo. Situated ns the isle is, just south of England, mid so near that the shores of the mainland can be seen across the Folent, the little bit of Atlantic ocean which divides it, it Is most easy of access from there, and enjoys abto a most lovtly summer climate, balmy and warm, but with Just enough tang of Atlantic fresh ness and vigor to brace one up beau tifully. WHERE THE QUEEN LIVES. There are, I think, but four or five towns of any Importance here, all, of course, being seaside resorts. There are Ryde, Sandown, Ventnor and Cowes the last spelt In capitals. If you please, for is not the great regatta held here every August, and does not her gracious majesty live just outside here in Osborne castle. In great state and fnmrnlfiepnop? Thfipa am ntlmhnra nf villages, of course, as cute and Eng lish and sea-faring as ever an English village was, even in the most romantic and descriptive of seaside novels, abounding in regular orthodox "old salts" who spin yarns and weave nets, pretty sailor lassies and uncouth, bare-footed fish-wives; but these do not come in here; there isn't time. Tho "principal cities" call for our consider ation. We now proceed with our geography lesson. Ryde, where we are at pres ent, is the largest town on the island, and extremely pretty. As every half mile of this blessed little place is a miniature little mountain in height nnd steepness, of course the Impertinent lit tle town of Ryde must needs run all over Itself In provoking little hills one after another, like ripples on the wat er, each one bigger than the last. And these hills must be journeyed over, too, up one street and down another, until people make up their minds to grin and bear, and go home knee-sprung for life, since fate really seems to have persisted in decreeing it so. The only other thing about Ryde that is very no ticeable to my mind, Is the sea-wall, miles long.and a part of the coast pro tections. It la about four or five feet thick, and It is great fun, at high tide, to go and walk on this wall and let the great waves come booming up against it and break in spray right over us. Of course it Is necessary to put on our oldest clothes for this feat, and even then the coast guard will not let us out there In rough weather, for fear we should be washed away. But wo man age to get out pretty often and we walk for miles and miles, screeching nnd laughing and shouting out our conver sation at the top of our voices, In order to hear ourselves above the noise the angry old ocean makes, and I assure you it is far greater fun and much more exciting than mere sea bathing, by a, good deal and we get Just as tvet oh! quite, I assure you. Then, too.there are such occupations as going shrimping and crab-hunting, In which we Indulge at low tide, also in our oldest garments. These pas times necessitate the wearing of bnre feet, and like sensible folks out for our holidays, we never stickle at that, but paddle boldly In, flourishing our nets, and make for the hapless shrimps with warlike Intent worthy nf truq Urltish fishwives. ' ' A THESPIAN RESORT. This, by the way, seems to be a fav orite resort for the theatrical profes ' siort, aa Forbes Robertson, the nctor .. manager of the Lyceum . theatre. Is spending his summer here,' as Is also , Evdnev Brougli. Isabel Bateman and ' several' more, whilo royalty Is repre- - tfeiitelTby" the' Archduchess Stephanie, ' of Austria' who is here at the. Esplan- ), ftde- hotel,-! besides, tho smaller fry of - nobility and gentry always swarming about the larger fry. Their yachts and - launches off the pier are really too nu- mcrous" to mentlon.but never to be for gotten, for the way they beautify the little Anient In nlmnlv cntrancinir. to say the least. ' ' ' D'H we must ll'ur uuitwiitb aiuiii - Ryde and take us on to Sandown, an other very swell summer resort, which Is to Ryde what Newport Is to Saratoga "smaller and selccter." 'The only thing that apepals to mo In Sandown is tho great long beach of sand they are blessed with there, which makes '. It such a tine place for taking children, ana it aoes, inneeci, swarm wmi me happy little youngsters all summer. Ryde Is bad for children; they, would ' be constantly dropping over the sea , .wall ' and getting drowned, and so Mlltntf thnl. vma mnthap1. I. fit I il n ; tout here In Sandown all is serene for both parents and tots. The great san dy beach stretches ail along the front, and the French bonnes. English nurse girls and all their happy little charges can coquette about in, and Just out of, and still farther outside old ocean's arms all the live-long day. THE HILLS OF VENTNOR. But up we go from, these silver eands, and on to Ventnor, the only other town of any sixe on the Isle, and here we come to many things that distin guish' it from all other Isle of Wight towns, and Indeed, to one peculiarity that distinguishes it from every other city or town on the face of the earth, and that Is that the very steepest streets In the whole world are to be found in Ventnor, where the grades are fearful, I assure you. I mentioned before, I think, that Ryde is hilly, and I may as well Bay right here and now, that so Is the whole island, and it grots to its very worst at Ventnor. They say here that long ago, when the world was young and nuture in her mad-cap days of youth, the sight of fair England, so beautiful and green, surrounded by the seas, and already destined, to be the greatest power in tho future of nations, moved her to such sweet smiles of pleasure that the dimples and the puckers and the rip ples that chased each other across her sweet face remained fixed, ever after ward the same, for posterity to see and enjoy, and that the aforesaid dimples, puckers, ripples, etc., are the hills and dales lf the Isle of Wight! Now, isn't that a stiff story to tell? But there we ure, digressing again, so to business. It is indeed true thut the steepest grades. In roadways at least, wind themselves up and down the streets of Ventnor worse luck fur I lmve climbed them, and know whereof I speak. Our Ventnor coachman in forms us that horses are peculiarly short-lived on this Isle, wearing out much sooner than Is usual in the mnr level paths of England, and that they often have been known to drop cloud of heart disease, after a dose of a couple of Ventnor hills. I cannot vouch for tho truth of this, but I do not doubt it In the least. I know that no horse's death can be laid nt my door, for I have very lively recollect ions of the way ho used to turn us all off the coach und make us walk ui ami down every hill wo came to, when wo were there. We didn't got much coach ing done nt Ventnor, for tin? simple reason that tho level spaces between the hills were so few nnd far between that our innings didn't come very often. RESORT OF THE NEWLY WKI. Ventnor Is also a great place for honeymoons. They are us thick ad blackberries there. A Ventnrr honey moon Is to an English couple what Niagara Fulls used to be to American newly-married quite the thing, you know, and the number of married couples this town must have sefely launched Into peaceful matrimonial life is beyond the computation of any body but Cupid himself, I've no doubt. Ventnor has also the best air on the Isle, to my mind, and so It should, too, for It faces the bread Atlantic without the smallest Impeding bit of land be tween, and gets the ozone good and strong Simon pure, as they say in the states. We are engaged there for sxio concerts next week again, and I am anticipating being there with great pleasure. I always feel like taklnjr In the air In gulps at Ventnor somehow. I've been saving Cowes up till the last, because it Is such great fun to go there. I think Cowes in regatta week Is simply tremendous. "We Just missed the steamboat when we Journeyed down to sec the rnce for Her Majesty's cup, and, as there are no good railway accommodations, wo hud the frrcut treat of bowling over perfect r,aV.vays to the great regatta, town on the top of a great four-in-hand coach, twenty miles ncross the prettiest country I have seen In England the woods on one side and the sea on the other. Of course Osborne castle, the summer res idence Of Her Majesty, was of great Interest to us, and as wo passed through the magnificent woods In the midst of which her castle stands, tho driver pointed out the houses of her gardeners model little places tho gamekeeper's lodges, her servants' amusement hall and library, and so on, at all ofiwhich we gazed with great at tention. The roads, as 1 said before, are simply perfect, and shaded by great trees hundreds of years old, whose branches melt away above our heads, and form a beautiful archway for miles and miles. The ground are very extensive, the. coachman Inform ing me that Her Majesty con drive be tween eight and nine miles inside her own private boundaries without cross ing upon herself once, nnd without go ing out upon the high road. Just as we passed the principal gates a carriage in which were the Duke of York's children and their nltisos dashed up, entered the grounds, nnd whizzed away towards the castle past the red coated old guards, who all reverently bared their heads as the little future ruler of the kingdom passed by. A moment or two afterward we drew ur with a great flourish of whip and trumpet, at Whlpplngham church, whore we all descended from our perch es and proceeded to Inspect the prem ises. This, you must know. In the queen's church, and passing inside, wo saw Her Majesty's lersonal pew. and the place In It where she always sits. We gazed at her memorial to her dead husband and daughter.and we Angered her hymn und prayer books all marked with a great gilt V and II with perhaps a rather snobbish Inter est. True to her principle of never giving anybody a glimpse of herself unless she positively cannot help It, she sits where she can see the cele brant best of all In the whole churcii, and (Where nobody but the celebrant can see her; and I dare say Bhe would hide from him if she only could, sh Is so stingy with her royal phiz. THE QUEEN'S RELIGION. From the decorations and altar I gather that she Is very low church in deed, and am told that such Is the fact. I do not suppose. In truth, that a high churchwoman would take such de light as does Her Majesty In the Kirk of Scotland services which she attends when Irt that country, which of courre is a strong proof that, whatever, her faults, she' is not a narrow-minded sort of Christian anyway. Right opposite her pew Is the newly made tomb of poor Prince Henry of Battenburg, who was recently burled here, while In the churchyard outside He the bones' of many an old servant and retnlncr of her Osborne household. Across the rond f rom the church stands a row of perfectly sweet little houses, the homes of aged and super annuated servants, built near the church purposely, In order that they may be brought over to divine services without trouble or fatigue a very much Idealized sort of poor house I thought, as the little Anne places are as tine as some of our prettiest homes built In that style, but not tenanted by old servants. Climbing roses clam ber all over the place, nodding gaily at the white-haired old people within. Broad piazzas and dainty, balconies stretch . along the first . and second floors, and great, easy chairs, and set tees are scattered about. FASCINATING COWES. Getting up on the coach once more, we soon rolled Into Cowes, where the? great day of the regatta was "on," as they Bay. Cowes week, they told me, was distinctly a quiet one compared with past years. Yet I found it quite bewildering enough, for I have never been to a yachting resort before, not to mention its being the greatest one in all the world. Swelldom was there in all the effulgent glory of wonderful yachting costumes for boat wear, and radiant afternoon toilettes for tho Royal Yacht Squadron club house lawn fetes and I feasted my eyes on the yachts and their fortunate owners until I had seen enough to make me decidedly envious, to say the least. The fleet of royal and admiralty yachts were scampering about the Solent, and skipping to and from Portsmouth opposite Cowes with all the vivacity of first-rate harlequins. The Princess of Wales, bright particular star of the Cowes water festivities, ,was visible only four days of the week, however, and had only one daughter at her side, Victoria. Hy a curious coincidence, wherens the German kaiser was the observed of all observers last year, this year the figure that excited most Interest was that of tho Empress Eugenie. Her yacht, the Thistle, lay at anchor In tho bay, nnd Her Majesty made her home on board, though passing a great deal of time on the club house l&wn. The famous widow of Napoleon III, once the arbiter of fashion over the iwhMe civilized world, and the woman whom our mothers nnd grandmothers have to thank fur Indicting on them the hideous crinoline years ago, was dressed very quietly In black coat and skirt and picture hat of 1 lack chiffon not a very dazzling toilette but I must say that this get-up suited her white hair nnd still stately earrings very well Indeed. She nnd her two ladles waiting made a distinguished trio, and as they passed along the narrow crowded streets many curious eyes turned to follow their progress, anions which were mine, as curious us any one's else I am sure, for I was much In terested in seeing her. Oiher r.jyallbs and nobilities were there, though not In such great numbers as is usual, I am told. One afternoon, when the lawn was particularly gny I picked out her grace, the Duchess of Sutherland, Laily Ben trice Tarlyns, Lady Conno niara, Lady Harrington and a few other lenders of society whose faces I know, but these iwere nil, except the great royalties, that I could identify. At Cowes heiv. there Is no beach whatever, the Solent being deep, deep er, deepest, right up to both the Eng lish and Wight sides. Here there can be no bathing of any account, nil con ditions having combined to make this little bay one of the finest play grounds nnd harbor for ships, large and small, In all the world. Cowes bay could not hnve been better "designed" by the best naval engineer In the world. The naval supremacy of old England is not to be wondered nt when one contemplates this magnificent drill water which the Solent forms and has formed for ages, for the "navvies" and the ships of Her Majesty's country. SHIPS IN REVIEW. We had not expected to "be let In" for so much of a treat when we came to Cowes, but only the second day af ter our arrival there, what should greet our astonished eyes upon rising, but the yhole of Her Majesty's channel fleet riding at anchor across the bay from us In Splthend Roads great, dark, silent and formidable, gome forty odd awful ships whose business In life Is to protect the English channel and to maintain England's supremacy on the high seas at the entrance thereof. We soon heard that they had been brought up for inspection by the queen and Li Hung Chang, the great Chinaman, who visited her In state at the castle that same day. We just had the good luck to see the queen board her yacht, the Alberta, from one place on a boat, and then when her craft ran in at the land ing stage all those ships were silent and still no longer. Hoiks of flags were run up as If by magic, converting the whole fleet Into a fluttering mass of colors, nnd from the sides of each ship there belched forth quick puffs of smoke, as each and evary one of them fired off Its salute of twenty-one gun.-". There was a noise for you; long be fore It was finished I wished that queens did not exist to be greeted by royal salutes. LI Hung Chnng of the yellow silk dol man and the drooping peacock's leath er I did not have the 1uek to sec, sad to say. How I wish I could have ex changed one of my many, glimpses of fat and podgy queenliness for a little look at this almond-eyed ambassador from the flowery kingdom, be it ever so small a squint, but it was not to be, it seems. LOCOMOTION BY BOATS. We came homo at last by boat. Boats indeed, are one of the principal means of locomotion hero. There are no surh things as busses or trams on this l3le. No, Indeed! We are much too sweet and unspoiled here, for that, and even the all-pervading hansom cabby, who gaily cracks his whip and his Joke all over England, even to the fastnesses of little Wales, Is conspicuous here by his absence, the hills being too step for a two-wheeler, I fancy. So we travel mostly by. boat and coach, while for those irho do not wish to go so high up in the world as tho top of a four-in-hand, there are on hire little Vic torias, or "Ilys," as the divers call them, besides brakes. To be sure there Is a tiny. Incompetent little : railway line on the Isle, which charges thrlcs the fares of decent English railways, and never runs on time, either, but that Is beneath the notice of tourists who wish to see tho place properly, and nobody travels on It, unless he can't catch the coach or hire a donkey or pony. And so the hills and. dales of the Isle of Wight resqund with tha blast of the tally-ho horn, tho patter of sure-footed donkeys nnd ponies, the toot of the steamboats's whistle and the ring of the bicycle bell, for the bicycle, you know, we have always with us now, wherever we go. Everybody here u3-?s canes, man, wo man and child. I suppose beoause they help In the hllt-cllmblng. I must say that I think It a very sensible thing, nnd I do, too, like to see them. I know I have got to "fancy mys.df" dread fully when I start off for a tramp with my pretty little walking stick. I as sure you candidly I d' feel very swag ger Indeed then. But the feeling soon passes off, and I go fagging up nnd down the grades, and find myself standing on the top of each hill, lost In contemplation of my cane, and tho feasibility of winding myself about It and rolling comfortably to the bottom, cane and all. But some human being hoves Into sight, I remember where I am, and end by never do'ng It at all.'' Sadie E. Kaiser. CROSSING THE GOLD RANGE Thrilling Trip Throng h the Dirk Canons of the Rockies. GLIMPSE AT SPORTSMEN'S PARADISE Scenes in . the Cattle Country. Glances at the Great Mining Camps. Around Lake Okanagan .Where the Last Spike Went DownTwo Days Lived in One. . Written for The Tribune. . Glacier House, C. P. Y., Aug. 27. "Tomorrow you will live two days In one," said a great European traveler on our train, who had crossed the Can adian Pacific Railway for the fourth time, and his words proved only too true, for this first day's experience was only an Imitation of what was to come. For hours we have been deafen ed by tho roar of the waters below and desire the broad sunshine once more. The twenty-seven miles between North Bend and Yytton the road over comes nn elevation of CO feet and all through this terrible Fraser Cano.i. Here the united waters of the river Nicolathe Thompson's, together with the Frazer river, all coming down from the north between the two great j lines of mountain -peaks, creates a ' scene which becomes wider and wider I with each mile of travel. We are now In the heart of the Cas cede range of mountains and seem to be entering a series, of subterranean pnssegos leading to tho Inferno. At ' one moment we are poised on the face ! of a dizzy cliff, at another we are cross j Ing a lofty viaduct now we are in open space, then we rush through the I blackness of darkness and as the river prerlpitates Itself Into these rent gorges, where the rays of the sun hard I ly enter, pnndemonlum seems to be kt loose. The scene with -the railroad on tho lr ft bank, the old Cariboo wagon road, (built by the government In 1M10, nnd abandoned since the completion of the Canadian Pacific), on the right, with the combined rivers surging and swirling far below, was startling to behold. The government wagon road attracts attention all along the Fraaer and Thompson valleys, nnd It twisted about the cliffs, first down to the angry rivers' side, then quickly forced to the helghth of a thousand feet above the river, pinned by slender trestles to the face of a gigantic precipice, was also a marvel to behold. As the canon alternately widens and narrows, the native Indian Is seen on projecting rooks down to the water's edge, spearing sulrnon, or scooping them out with dip-nets, and in sunny spots, drying them on poles, giving brilliant touches of color to the land scape. Chinamen, too, are seen on the occasional sand bars washing for gold. Indian villages are found with their miniature cliupel, unpainted houses, quaint and barbarously decorated grave-yards, with banners, streamers, and all manner of carved "tokens." As also the occasionul groups of the huts of the Chinese. At Cisco, our train enters a long tunnel and emerges to cross the Canon by a steel cantilever bridge In mld-atr and at a dizzy helghth above the water. Soon we ascend the Thompson river and Thompson canon and the river here changes from the terrible to the grand. Here the mountains seem to draw together nnd the railway winds along their face hundreds of feet above the struggling water, the gorge nar rows and deepens, tho frowning cllfts opposite are mottled and streaked In many striking colors, while between the breaks In tho high escarpment, Bnowy peaks are seen glistening above the clouds and the scenery becomes wild and beyond my powers of descrip tion. Nor is this all. As we ascend this fantastic canon, there Is a striking con trast between tho brilliant emerald green of the Nicola river as It whirls down Its winding torrent path and the cliffs through which It passes, which are of the richest yellow, streaked with maroon and with masses of solid rust red earth, over which hangs the sky of deepest violet. These strange forms, these gaudy hues of the rocks, these scantily her baged terraces. Impress themselves most strongly on the memory. This gorge In Its terrifying gloom and deso lation was remindful of and may be fittingly named the "Black Canon of Colorado," as we beheld It In 1892. At Ashcroft In 48 miles we cover an ad ditional elevation of 825 feet. This Is a busy town at the point of departure for the Cariboo, Barkervllle, and other gold fields In the northern Interior of British Columbia. Here are found freight wagons drawn by from four to ten yoke of oxen, and long strings of pack-mules laden with merchandise going to and from the mines dally. Pack teams of fifty horses and mules come down some 250 miles for supplies. The rate of cartage for that distance is sixteen dollars a hundred. Hay Is worth from $fi0 to $70 per ton, and the cartage of flour $12 per barrel. IN THE CATTLE COUNTRY. Here are extensive cattle ranches nnd some farming Is done. In Cariboo county are four large gold mining companies, two English, one American and one Canadian. The latter has a capital of $2,000,000 backed by the bank of Montreal. One brick was lately sent to that city worth $17,000. Another company's clean up for the month was $40,000. Here we found the proverbial Englishman with his complete outfit, also some hunters returning from a week's sport laden with all kinds of game. Truly, this is the sportsman's paradise. From here to Kamloops, 47 miles, the mountain's spurs are pierced by nu merous tunnels, one following the other In close succession. For twenty miles the rood runs nlong tho shore of Kamloops Lake, a beautiful hill-girt sheet of water, made so by the widen ing of the Thompson river. Kamioops Is a divisional point. Situated at the Junction of the north and south branches of the above rivers, with a population of 2.000, and Is the principal town In the Thompson river valley. It lies In the plateau between the gold and cascade, or coast range of the Rockies, 251 miles east of Vancouver. Years ago It was a Hudson's bay post. Here Is an Indian reservation, over looked by St. Paul's mountain. Steam boats ply the river and lake; nnd saw mills manned largely by Chinese pre frequent and briskly running. This Is a supply point for a large ranching and mineral region southward. The principal Industry Is grazing, for the hlfls are covered with most nutritious bunch grass. . As we advance for the next 60 miles, the scene change, the valley broadens, and the eye that has been so accustomed to rocks and roughness and the uninhabited desola tion of the mountains. Is gladdened by the sight of grass, fenced fields, grow ing crops, hay stacks, good farm houses, on a level surface, while herds of cattle, sheep and horses, roam In large numbers over the valley and bordering hills. This Is one of the "garden spots" of British Columbia and the . ranching country of the gold range. The people are old settlers, having come from the Pacific Coast a happy contrast from the rude cabins and huts of the mountains,- are the neat and trim cottages of the "Highlanders" with their evi dences of thrift all around. Still other and more attractive fern ery Is awaiting us In the next fifty miles, found In and around the lovely waters of the chain of Shuswap Lakes, the center of one of the best sporting regions in the line of the Canadian Pacific, and the Interior lake region of British Columbia. Northward, Cariboo are abundant and within thirty miles Is fine deer shooting, probably unequalled on this continent, and on this Immense chain of lakes Is famous sport In deep troll ing trout. If Is nt Notch Hill station we come out upon the salmon arm of the great Shuswap at an elevation of some COO feet above the water and thus got a magnificent view across it as far as the eye can reach. This Is named from an Indian tribe that lived on It-- banks and who still have a reservation here; This Is a most remarkable body of water lying among mountain ridges with high bold shores and fringed by the Hue narrow beach of saml and pebbles, and with bays and capes pre sent beautiful views. For. r0 miles our railway winds In nnd out Its bending shores. AROUND LAKE OKANAGAN. Slcamous Junction, 3,13 miles from Vancouver, Is the station for the min ing district of Spallumshoen, and other regions up the river around Lake Okanagan, reached by stenmer. This country Is a veritable earthly paradise, growing all fruits, cereals, etc., that the 'temperate zone can produce. Here are enormous wheat fields. Lord Ab erdeen, the governor general of the dominion, has a ranch here of 300 acres which yield perfect wheat with no smut, sixty bushels to the acre. Hn has the largest fruit farm and also cattle ranch In the dominion at Vernon and Kclawna. Near here. Is an Eng lish tobacco ranch: samples shown us were of strong fibre and free from worms; the lack of rains, frostf etc.. cause promote and luxurious growth. Slcamous Is only 250 miles in an air line of Spokane, AVashlngton, across the International border. CROSSING THE SELKIRK RANGE. We are now at the end and base of the gold range of mountains and com mence the ascent of tho "Selklrks" through Eagle Pass, at an elevation of 1,300 feet. The Selkirk mountains running par allel to the Rocky Mountains proper, arc frequently included under one name the Rockies though of dis tinct formation, exhibiting an en tirely different series of rock. There is a' valley of most remarkable length ami regularity extending from the southern boundary line niong the west ern baseof the Kocky Mountains as fur as the northern limits of the 8elklrks, a dif-tnnce of over 700 miles and divid ing the two ranges. The average width of the Rocky Mountain range Is about s.xty miles, diminishing to the north: that of the Selklrks is about eighty rriles. The economic value of the Bel kirk range lies In the very valuable Cef esits of precious and base metals. The Rockies conta n a great rotentl.il wealth of valuable minerals and exten sive seams of coal, and deposit of Iron' and other useful metals. The av erage altitude of the Selklrks are noc greatly Inferior to the Rock'es the highest peaks rising from 8,000 to 10,000 feet, culminating at the head quarters of Saskatchewan, (Mt Mur chfson), iwlth an altitude of 13,CH) feet. There are twelve passes over the Rock ies at elevations ranging from 7,100 feet to 2,000 feet. The summits of the Selklrks rival In grandeur those of the Rockies, being more rounded and less l K-clpltouB than the latter, and llielr sides up to several thousand fe.Jt are clothed In dense forest affording an unlimited supply of good timber. The Valley at the basj of the 8-dklrks is Piled throughout with a dense srowth of Immense trees. (Who haa r.ot heard of the almost fabulous pio portlons of the trees of British Col umbia?) Douglass firs, cedar, hemlock, balsam and other varieties giants all of them. This pass (Eagle) Is so deep cut and direct, that It seems to have le.fn purposely provided far the rail way In order to overcome th enr.r mcus difficulties In crossing the Sel klrks. The pass Is not over a mile wide with lofty mountains rising ab ruptly on each side. The highest point reached by the road in this pass Is at Summit Lake, only eight miles from the Columbia river and 525 feet above It. In fact here are four beautiful lakes, .Summit, Victor, Three Valley, ami Griffin, they are In close succes sion, each occupying the entire width of the valley and forcing the railway into the mountain sides. I must ask the reader to Imagine the scenery In part, as my words fail of description. WHEN THE LAST SriKE WENT DOWN. Reaching'Cralgellachle our attention was called to the spot where the last spike, uniting the rails from the cast and the west over this great highway was driven on. November 7, 1SS5, thus finishing one of the greatest engineer ing structures ever undertaken by man. We now leave behind us the Im posing nnd plncier-Rtudded Mt. Begbie of the gold range, also the two eternal snow clad peaks Mackenzie and Fll ley lying southeast from us and com mence at Clanwilliam. At one Uvatlon of i9'.)5 feet, the descent of 520 feet to the Columbia river., nine miles to Revelstoke, a divisional point, also a supply point f"r the mining districts up and down tho noble stream. COLUMBIA RIVER. . The Columbia which has made a great detour around tho northern ex tremity of the Selklrks, Is here very wide and deep nnd crossed ona brldg; of over a half o mile long. We have traveled ncross the moun tainous peninsular formed by the great bend of the Columbia, a distance of seventy-eight miles, while In tlowln;? northward. It has formed a loop of over 200 miles and descended 1.050 feot. It Is navignble southward over 200 miles to the International boundary, altogether 723 miles. This Columbia Is a narvel, one of the great river of North America, neither the Dominion 'or American lay exclusive claim to It It' is In reality an American river, rising In Oregon it turns towards the North Star Into the Dominion running is sold by all dealers, everywnere, in one, three and five pound tins, each bearing this label, with trade-marks "Cottolcne" and stents head in cotton-plant wreatk. It is at once the best, most wholesome and . least expensive shortening in existence; ' .. ' : Cottolene has done more forthecause of good health, through better cooking, than any other agency. Made only by The N. K. Fttfrbank Company, CHICAGO. NCW YORK. In all directions, east, west, north and south, constanly increasing in volume and binding more firmly our two coun tries whose race and language are the same, and whose true Interests are one. As wo cross It at Revelstoke we can scarcely realize that It Is the same stream we crossed by the Northern Pacific at Pasoo Junction, Washington, and at the Dalles by the Union Pacific, where It was turned on Its edge and compressed Into a narrow cleft, be twtgi Ilalaltic rock of one hundred and thirty feet, or at Foi t Vancouver where It forms a confluence with the Wil lamette and again at Kalma, Oregon, by the Union Pacific where It seemed like an open sea In extent rushing with mighty power into the broad Pacific. Twelve mlls below Jtevelstoke It ex pands Into the Arrow Lakes which are navigable for steamers 165 miles to Robson, and from there to Northport on the Columbia, where rail connection Is made by the Northern Pacific for Spokane Fulls. This route also leads to tho famous Kootenay mining district on Kootenay Lake, where are numerous rich gold, sliver and copper mines referred to In our Northern Paciflo series, also reached by that road. GREAT COLD MINING CAMP. At Rossland is a great gold mining camp, the most important ever dis. covai'ed in Canada. Americans from Spokane are developing these mines, paying their laborers $3.50 per day. Very large nuggets of gold have been found here. Heretofore the gold of British Columbia has been found in pockets and the washings of river sand and gravel. This camp Is like tho American mines found In "leads" some of these leads are two feet In circumference. War Eagle mine em ploys 75 men and the output Is $50,000 per month. A smelter Is being built there. But we are digressing. At Revelstoke, we enter again the ob servation car and commence the as cent of the Selklrks for Twln-Butte, a distance of twelve miles. The sta tion takes Its name from the huge double summit nearby, called Macken-zle-Tllley. On approaching the station a beautiful peak looms up to the left called Clachnacoodin. Soon the narrow valley again becomes a gorge and the railway and river dispute the passage through a chasm with vertical rocky walls standing but ten yards apart. THROUGH ALBERT CANON. Leaving Twln-Butte, we soon enter the gorge of the Illlcllliwaet river. In Albert Canon, where the river Is seen 300 feet below the railway compressed Into a boiling flume scarcely twenty feet wide. Here the train stops for a few moments to enable the passengers from solidly built balconies to safely look at the awful gorge and Into the boiling cauldron below. The tropin runs closely along the brink of several re markably deep fissures In the solid rock whose .walls rise straight up hun dreds of feet on both sides of wooded crags, above which sharp distant peaks cut the sky. All along this gorge for miles as It .widens out there are exceedingly grand outlooks, nnd the gigantic trees, for which British Columbia Is famous, ore found here abundantly. The Illlc llliwaet river here is not la'ge, but the stream es It comes from the distant glacier Is turbulent. Its water pea green with glacial mud, but rapidly clearlfles. Caribon and other largo game are found here In great numbers, and all the way down the Columbia. At the station are many sliver mines penetrating the crest of one of the lofty hills north of the railway. At Russ Peak station we are at an altitude of 3.B09 feet and commence to climb the "Loops," to the Glacier House, peven miles distant, when we overcome an additional elevation of 522 feet. Two locomotives are required for the nseent. This "loup" is a skilful piece of engineering, scarcely second to none on our continent. Looking for ward on the mountain slope the rall- ; roads are seen cutting two long gashes. one above the other. It makes several I startling turns and twists, first running I parallel with Its former course, cross- Ing the canon, touching the Cougar I mountain on the other side doubling j back a mile or more upon Itself to within n stones toss, touching ror a moment nt the base of the Ross Peak, then climbing to Ross Peak Glacier. Tho superb mountain views may he imagined, for every turn of the de vious pathway brings fresh scenic marvels. The "Cascade of Tears" Is a beautiful, fall of 1.000 feet, bringing tears of emotion to the beholder. Our arrival at tho Glacier House and the "Great Glacier" of the Selklrks. ends our second day's experience at sight-seeing on this great national highway. A description of this great phenomenon- will appear next week. J. E. Richmond. Bmnrt Child. Mainlle "Mamma, If 'ou died would 'ou 'climb the golden stairs'?" Mamma "I suppose I would, my dear." Jlaudle "I wouldn't, mamma. J'd ta.ke th elsvator." Truth. HI LA DELPHI A, PITTSBURGH). C0nPLEXI0.4 BLLMISHES May bo bidden imperfectly by cosmetics ana powders, but ciui only be removed perma nently by HETSEL'S SUPERIOR FACE BLEACH. H will positively remove Freckles, Tan. Moth, Sallownesa, ami rum nay diseama ol the akin, auch hh Pimples, Acne, Blackhead. Ollincaa, aud renders the akin aoft and beau tituL Price SI per bottle. For sale at E. M. HETSEL'S 33a Lackawanna Ave., Scranton, Pa. Standard ilcos STABLE and FARM IMfCA AXLE GREASE, I $$TjHJHtJH0H(lfOII.Ht fZWi00Tif. NEW YORK CARRIAGE GREASE;. fOt.llQHT.WtOONS AMD HAVrJAgRU08 BOSTON COACH AXLE imNDARDJ.EA THER pit. 1 1EUREKf HARNESS' 0K I JHC.BCST HWSS.OIljfifBi! BUDDY HARVESTER OIL. i. .tJIIC.MCAVt BODt fORJtlMJIilSilSltll yAVORI7Eliroimmi:o'k f i Coach and Carriage Carfdlea 1 V On 1 ALB 1 VI BY WHERE. FOR SALE BY THE ATLANTIC REFINING CO SCRANTON. PA. THR IDEAL AMERICAN TRIP NOKTHEUN STbAMSHIP COMPANY. The tiuporbly Appointed and Commodious Fteel Steamships, NORTH Wl-ST AND NORTHLAND, American through and through, leave Buffalo Tuenlsvs and Fridays O.JO p.m. for Cleveland, Detroit, Mackinac. The Soa. Duluth, and Western Point, passilif all plurod of iuterest by daylight In conneottoa W" THE GREAT NORTHERN RAILWAY, it forms tbe most direct route, and from er ery point nf rompurisrn, the most delightful anil cumfortahl'i one to Minneapolis, Ft. Pan), (treat Falls, Helena, lintto. Bpcicana and Pa eilli; ccast. 'Ihe otilv transcontinental lina running the famous buffet, library, observe tion car. N ew 87 hour train fer Portlnnd ! Spokane. HOTEL LAPAVLTTI!, Lake Alinnetoaka. 16 miles from Miuneapnlif, largest and moat beantlul resort In the wrst. 'liuketeaud any information of any agent or A. A. HtAltU, Uenerul Passenger agent, Buffalo, N. Y. i IF22 r?W vilWWIAa-aJM'.wyaaaaT ea Ti il ? a n u i semi rn 'si is assssaaej V.'hr.t Sarah Bernhard ay Houses for Sals and for Rent It ynu contemplate purchasing; or leaaw Ing a house, er want to invest In a let, ace the lists ol desirable property page a ol 1 be Tribune. t I ' - - . i'i .4 i i
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