THE SCKANTON TRIBUNE- SATOBDAY" MORNING, SEPTEMBER 12, 189C.
9
IN THE ZENITH OF
NATURE'S BEAUTY
Sctolc Loveliness of England' Cute
' Little Isle of Wight.
DURINQ REGATTA WEEK AT COWES
. Mint Kaiser Describes Haw 8hc
Passed a Summer's Vacation in the
Swellest of British Summering
PlacesEiciting Strolls on a Sea
MallHunting Shrimps Barefooted
Ventnor'a Hills and Cowes' Fnstidi
oasnessVictoria Itccina and Li
Hnng Chang.
Correspondence of The Tribune.
Isle of Wight, Aug. 17. Having been
engaged, some weeks ago, for a series
of concerts on the Isle of Wight, I
have become, this summer, more thor
oughly acquainted with this cute llt
tl Island than I ever fancied I should
be, for I had never expected to see this
Yirrtt V unrl OYolllutvA 1U1a tilnna nf tha
world; and, until some time ago, I
never would have thought that I
should have such abundant opportun
ity for studying tills charming little
Spot oft the south coast of England.
It certainly is an interesting little bit
of ' geography, beloved alike by the
antiquarian and the modern enthusiast.
There are several old castles In ruins,
and some occupied even now on tho
island, which churm the heart of those
tourists (Who delight in the mouldy
smell of damp old stones, matted over
with century-old Ivy and haunted still
by the shades of the brave knight
and faire ladeys of old, while Cowe?,
with Its different royalties, nobles anil
aristocrats of all countries, with the
smart yachts which they bring here
for the regatta week races, Is certainly
vp to date and swagger enough to suit
the! very bellest of American brlb s. bo
she ever so gay. Surely the Kngllsh
jeople were kind Indued to tholr repro
bate King Charles I, when they shut
Jilm up In old Cnusbrook castle here,
surrounded as It is by the loveliest lit
tle bits of woodland I ever saw (we
are shown to this day tho little win
dow, out of which he wriggled his
royal body when he escaped and lied
to Scotland) and surely Her Majesty,
the astute little old Mrs. Oteat Hritain
and Ireland, knew what she was doing
when she Invested In Onborne castle
and grounds, and made It a summer
home for herself and her children,
some fifty years ngo. Situated ns the
isle is, just south of England, mid so
near that the shores of the mainland
can be seen across the Folent, the little
bit of Atlantic ocean which divides it,
it Is most easy of access from there,
and enjoys abto a most lovtly summer
climate, balmy and warm, but with
Just enough tang of Atlantic fresh
ness and vigor to brace one up beau
tifully. WHERE THE QUEEN LIVES.
There are, I think, but four or five
towns of any Importance here, all, of
course, being seaside resorts. There
are Ryde, Sandown, Ventnor and
Cowes the last spelt In capitals. If you
please, for is not the great regatta held
here every August, and does not her
gracious majesty live just outside here
in Osborne castle. In great state and
fnmrnlfiepnop? Thfipa am ntlmhnra nf
villages, of course, as cute and Eng
lish and sea-faring as ever an English
village was, even in the most romantic
and descriptive of seaside novels,
abounding in regular orthodox "old
salts" who spin yarns and weave
nets, pretty sailor lassies and uncouth,
bare-footed fish-wives; but these do
not come in here; there isn't time. Tho
"principal cities" call for our consider
ation. We now proceed with our geography
lesson. Ryde, where we are at pres
ent, is the largest town on the island,
and extremely pretty. As every half
mile of this blessed little place is a
miniature little mountain in height nnd
steepness, of course the Impertinent lit
tle town of Ryde must needs run all
over Itself In provoking little hills one
after another, like ripples on the wat
er, each one bigger than the last. And
these hills must be journeyed over, too,
up one street and down another, until
people make up their minds to grin
and bear, and go home knee-sprung for
life, since fate really seems to have
persisted in decreeing it so. The only
other thing about Ryde that is very no
ticeable to my mind, Is the sea-wall,
miles long.and a part of the coast pro
tections. It la about four or five feet
thick, and It is great fun, at high tide,
to go and walk on this wall and let the
great waves come booming up against
it and break in spray right over us.
Of course it Is necessary to put on our
oldest clothes for this feat, and even
then the coast guard will not let us out
there In rough weather, for fear we
should be washed away. But wo man
age to get out pretty often and we walk
for miles and miles, screeching nnd
laughing and shouting out our conver
sation at the top of our voices, In order
to hear ourselves above the noise the
angry old ocean makes, and I assure
you it is far greater fun and much
more exciting than mere sea bathing,
by a, good deal and we get Just as
tvet oh! quite, I assure you.
Then, too.there are such occupations
as going shrimping and crab-hunting,
In which we Indulge at low tide, also
in our oldest garments. These pas
times necessitate the wearing of bnre
feet, and like sensible folks out for our
holidays, we never stickle at that, but
paddle boldly In, flourishing our nets,
and make for the hapless shrimps with
warlike Intent worthy nf truq Urltish
fishwives. ' '
A THESPIAN RESORT.
This, by the way, seems to be a fav
orite resort for the theatrical profes
' siort, aa Forbes Robertson, the nctor
.. manager of the Lyceum . theatre. Is
spending his summer here,' as Is also
, Evdnev Brougli. Isabel Bateman and
' several' more, whilo royalty Is repre-
- tfeiitelTby" the' Archduchess Stephanie,
' of Austria' who is here at the. Esplan-
), ftde- hotel,-! besides, tho smaller fry of
- nobility and gentry always swarming
about the larger fry. Their yachts and
- launches off the pier are really too nu-
mcrous" to mentlon.but never to be for
gotten, for the way they beautify the
little Anient In nlmnlv cntrancinir. to
say the least. ' ' '
D'H we must ll'ur uuitwiitb aiuiii
- Ryde and take us on to Sandown, an
other very swell summer resort, which
Is to Ryde what Newport Is to Saratoga
"smaller and selccter." 'The only
thing that apepals to mo In Sandown
is tho great long beach of sand they
are blessed with there, which makes
'. It such a tine place for taking children,
ana it aoes, inneeci, swarm wmi me
happy little youngsters all summer.
Ryde Is bad for children; they, would
' be constantly dropping over the sea
, .wall ' and getting drowned, and so
Mlltntf thnl. vma mnthap1. I. fit I il n
; tout here In Sandown all is serene for
both parents and tots. The great san
dy beach stretches ail along the front,
and the French bonnes. English nurse
girls and all their happy little charges
can coquette about in, and Just out of,
and still farther outside old ocean's
arms all the live-long day.
THE HILLS OF VENTNOR.
But up we go from, these silver eands,
and on to Ventnor, the only other
town of any sixe on the Isle, and here
we come to many things that distin
guish' it from all other Isle of Wight
towns, and Indeed, to one peculiarity
that distinguishes it from every other
city or town on the face of the earth,
and that Is that the very steepest
streets In the whole world are to be
found in Ventnor, where the grades
are fearful, I assure you. I mentioned
before, I think, that Ryde is hilly, and
I may as well Bay right here and now,
that so Is the whole island, and it grots
to its very worst at Ventnor. They
say here that long ago, when the
world was young and nuture in her
mad-cap days of youth, the sight of
fair England, so beautiful and green,
surrounded by the seas, and already
destined, to be the greatest power in
tho future of nations, moved her to
such sweet smiles of pleasure that the
dimples and the puckers and the rip
ples that chased each other across her
sweet face remained fixed, ever after
ward the same, for posterity to see
and enjoy, and that the aforesaid
dimples, puckers, ripples, etc., are the
hills and dales lf the Isle of Wight!
Now, isn't that a stiff story to tell?
But there we ure, digressing again, so
to business.
It is indeed true thut the steepest
grades. In roadways at least, wind
themselves up and down the streets
of Ventnor worse luck fur I lmve
climbed them, and know whereof I
speak. Our Ventnor coachman in
forms us that horses are peculiarly
short-lived on this Isle, wearing out
much sooner than Is usual in the mnr
level paths of England, and that they
often have been known to drop cloud
of heart disease, after a dose of a
couple of Ventnor hills. I cannot
vouch for tho truth of this, but I do
not doubt it In the least. I know that
no horse's death can be laid nt my
door, for I have very lively recollect ions
of the way ho used to turn us all off
the coach und make us walk ui ami
down every hill wo came to, when wo
were there. We didn't got much coach
ing done nt Ventnor, for tin? simple
reason that tho level spaces between
the hills were so few nnd far between
that our innings didn't come very
often.
RESORT OF THE NEWLY WKI.
Ventnor Is also a great place for
honeymoons. They are us thick ad
blackberries there. A Ventnrr honey
moon Is to an English couple what
Niagara Fulls used to be to American
newly-married quite the thing, you
know, and the number of married
couples this town must have sefely
launched Into peaceful matrimonial life
is beyond the computation of any
body but Cupid himself, I've no doubt.
Ventnor has also the best air on the
Isle, to my mind, and so It should, too,
for It faces the bread Atlantic without
the smallest Impeding bit of land be
tween, and gets the ozone good and
strong Simon pure, as they say in the
states. We are engaged there for sxio
concerts next week again, and I am
anticipating being there with great
pleasure. I always feel like taklnjr In
the air In gulps at Ventnor somehow.
I've been saving Cowes up till the
last, because it Is such great fun to go
there. I think Cowes in regatta week
Is simply tremendous. "We Just missed
the steamboat when we Journeyed
down to sec the rnce for Her Majesty's
cup, and, as there are no good railway
accommodations, wo hud the frrcut
treat of bowling over perfect r,aV.vays
to the great regatta, town on the top of
a great four-in-hand coach, twenty
miles ncross the prettiest country I
have seen In England the woods on
one side and the sea on the other. Of
course Osborne castle, the summer res
idence Of Her Majesty, was of great
Interest to us, and as wo passed
through the magnificent woods In the
midst of which her castle stands, tho
driver pointed out the houses of her
gardeners model little places tho
gamekeeper's lodges, her servants'
amusement hall and library, and so on,
at all ofiwhich we gazed with great at
tention. The roads, as 1 said before,
are simply perfect, and shaded by
great trees hundreds of years old,
whose branches melt away above our
heads, and form a beautiful archway
for miles and miles. The ground are
very extensive, the. coachman Inform
ing me that Her Majesty con drive be
tween eight and nine miles inside her
own private boundaries without cross
ing upon herself once, nnd without go
ing out upon the high road.
Just as we passed the principal gates
a carriage in which were the Duke of
York's children and their nltisos dashed
up, entered the grounds, nnd whizzed
away towards the castle past the red
coated old guards, who all reverently
bared their heads as the little future
ruler of the kingdom passed by. A
moment or two afterward we drew ur
with a great flourish of whip and
trumpet, at Whlpplngham church,
whore we all descended from our perch
es and proceeded to Inspect the prem
ises. This, you must know. In the
queen's church, and passing inside, wo
saw Her Majesty's lersonal pew. and
the place In It where she always sits.
We gazed at her memorial to her dead
husband and daughter.and we Angered
her hymn und prayer books all
marked with a great gilt V and II
with perhaps a rather snobbish Inter
est. True to her principle of never
giving anybody a glimpse of herself
unless she positively cannot help It,
she sits where she can see the cele
brant best of all In the whole churcii,
and (Where nobody but the celebrant
can see her; and I dare say Bhe would
hide from him if she only could, sh
Is so stingy with her royal phiz.
THE QUEEN'S RELIGION.
From the decorations and altar I
gather that she Is very low church in
deed, and am told that such Is the fact.
I do not suppose. In truth, that a high
churchwoman would take such de
light as does Her Majesty In the Kirk
of Scotland services which she attends
when Irt that country, which of
courre is a strong proof that, whatever,
her faults, she' is not a narrow-minded
sort of Christian anyway.
Right opposite her pew Is the newly
made tomb of poor Prince Henry of
Battenburg, who was recently burled
here, while In the churchyard outside
He the bones' of many an old servant
and retnlncr of her Osborne household.
Across the rond f rom the church
stands a row of perfectly sweet little
houses, the homes of aged and super
annuated servants, built near the
church purposely, In order that they
may be brought over to divine services
without trouble or fatigue a very
much Idealized sort of poor house I
thought, as the little Anne places are
as tine as some of our prettiest homes
built In that style, but not tenanted
by old servants. Climbing roses clam
ber all over the place, nodding gaily at
the white-haired old people within.
Broad piazzas and dainty, balconies
stretch . along the first . and second
floors, and great, easy chairs, and set
tees are scattered about.
FASCINATING COWES.
Getting up on the coach once more,
we soon rolled Into Cowes, where the?
great day of the regatta was "on," as
they Bay. Cowes week, they told me,
was distinctly a quiet one compared
with past years. Yet I found it quite
bewildering enough, for I have never
been to a yachting resort before, not to
mention its being the greatest one in
all the world. Swelldom was there in
all the effulgent glory of wonderful
yachting costumes for boat wear, and
radiant afternoon toilettes for tho
Royal Yacht Squadron club house
lawn fetes and I feasted my eyes on
the yachts and their fortunate owners
until I had seen enough to make me
decidedly envious, to say the least.
The fleet of royal and admiralty yachts
were scampering about the Solent, and
skipping to and from Portsmouth
opposite Cowes with all the vivacity
of first-rate harlequins. The Princess
of Wales, bright particular star of the
Cowes water festivities, ,was visible
only four days of the week, however,
and had only one daughter at her side,
Victoria.
Hy a curious coincidence, wherens
the German kaiser was the observed
of all observers last year, this year the
figure that excited most Interest was
that of tho Empress Eugenie. Her
yacht, the Thistle, lay at anchor In tho
bay, nnd Her Majesty made her home
on board, though passing a great deal
of time on the club house l&wn. The
famous widow of Napoleon III, once
the arbiter of fashion over the iwhMe
civilized world, and the woman whom
our mothers nnd grandmothers have
to thank fur Indicting on them the
hideous crinoline years ago, was
dressed very quietly In black coat and
skirt and picture hat of 1 lack chiffon
not a very dazzling toilette but I must
say that this get-up suited her white
hair nnd still stately earrings very well
Indeed. She nnd her two ladles
waiting made a distinguished trio, and
as they passed along the narrow
crowded streets many curious eyes
turned to follow their progress, anions
which were mine, as curious us any
one's else I am sure, for I was much In
terested in seeing her. Oiher r.jyallbs
and nobilities were there, though not
In such great numbers as is usual, I
am told. One afternoon, when the
lawn was particularly gny I picked out
her grace, the Duchess of Sutherland,
Laily Ben trice Tarlyns, Lady Conno
niara, Lady Harrington and a few
other lenders of society whose faces
I know, but these iwere nil, except the
great royalties, that I could identify.
At Cowes heiv. there Is no beach
whatever, the Solent being deep, deep
er, deepest, right up to both the Eng
lish and Wight sides. Here there can
be no bathing of any account, nil con
ditions having combined to make this
little bay one of the finest play
grounds nnd harbor for ships, large
and small, In all the world. Cowes bay
could not hnve been better "designed"
by the best naval engineer In the
world. The naval supremacy of old
England is not to be wondered nt when
one contemplates this magnificent drill
water which the Solent forms and has
formed for ages, for the "navvies" and
the ships of Her Majesty's country.
SHIPS IN REVIEW.
We had not expected to "be let In"
for so much of a treat when we came
to Cowes, but only the second day af
ter our arrival there, what should greet
our astonished eyes upon rising, but
the yhole of Her Majesty's channel
fleet riding at anchor across the bay
from us In Splthend Roads great,
dark, silent and formidable, gome forty
odd awful ships whose business In life
Is to protect the English channel and to
maintain England's supremacy on the
high seas at the entrance thereof. We
soon heard that they had been brought
up for inspection by the queen and Li
Hung Chang, the great Chinaman, who
visited her In state at the castle that
same day. We just had the good luck
to see the queen board her yacht, the
Alberta, from one place on a boat, and
then when her craft ran in at the land
ing stage all those ships were silent
and still no longer. Hoiks of flags were
run up as If by magic, converting the
whole fleet Into a fluttering mass of
colors, nnd from the sides of each ship
there belched forth quick puffs of
smoke, as each and evary one of them
fired off Its salute of twenty-one gun.-".
There was a noise for you; long be
fore It was finished I wished that
queens did not exist to be greeted by
royal salutes.
LI Hung Chnng of the yellow silk dol
man and the drooping peacock's leath
er I did not have the 1uek to sec, sad
to say. How I wish I could have ex
changed one of my many, glimpses of
fat and podgy queenliness for a little
look at this almond-eyed ambassador
from the flowery kingdom, be it ever
so small a squint, but it was not to be,
it seems.
LOCOMOTION BY BOATS.
We came homo at last by boat. Boats
indeed, are one of the principal means
of locomotion hero. There are no surh
things as busses or trams on this l3le.
No, Indeed! We are much too sweet
and unspoiled here, for that, and even
the all-pervading hansom cabby, who
gaily cracks his whip and his Joke all
over England, even to the fastnesses
of little Wales, Is conspicuous here by
his absence, the hills being too step for
a two-wheeler, I fancy. So we travel
mostly by. boat and coach, while for
those irho do not wish to go so high
up in the world as tho top of a four-in-hand,
there are on hire little Vic
torias, or "Ilys," as the divers call
them, besides brakes. To be sure there
Is a tiny. Incompetent little : railway
line on the Isle, which charges thrlcs
the fares of decent English railways,
and never runs on time, either, but
that Is beneath the notice of tourists
who wish to see tho place properly,
and nobody travels on It, unless he
can't catch the coach or hire a donkey
or pony. And so the hills and. dales
of the Isle of Wight resqund with tha
blast of the tally-ho horn, tho patter
of sure-footed donkeys nnd ponies, the
toot of the steamboats's whistle and
the ring of the bicycle bell, for the
bicycle, you know, we have always
with us now, wherever we go.
Everybody here u3-?s canes, man, wo
man and child. I suppose beoause they
help In the hllt-cllmblng. I must say
that I think It a very sensible thing,
nnd I do, too, like to see them. I know
I have got to "fancy mys.df" dread
fully when I start off for a tramp with
my pretty little walking stick. I as
sure you candidly I d' feel very swag
ger Indeed then. But the feeling soon
passes off, and I go fagging up nnd
down the grades, and find myself
standing on the top of each hill, lost
In contemplation of my cane, and tho
feasibility of winding myself about It
and rolling comfortably to the bottom,
cane and all. But some human being
hoves Into sight, I remember where I
am, and end by never do'ng It at all.''
Sadie E. Kaiser.
CROSSING THE
GOLD RANGE
Thrilling Trip Throng h the Dirk Canons
of the Rockies.
GLIMPSE AT SPORTSMEN'S PARADISE
Scenes in . the Cattle Country.
Glances at the Great Mining Camps.
Around Lake Okanagan .Where
the Last Spike Went DownTwo
Days Lived in One. .
Written for The Tribune. .
Glacier House, C. P. Y., Aug. 27.
"Tomorrow you will live two days In
one," said a great European traveler
on our train, who had crossed the Can
adian Pacific Railway for the fourth
time, and his words proved only too
true, for this first day's experience
was only an Imitation of what was to
come. For hours we have been deafen
ed by tho roar of the waters below
and desire the broad sunshine once
more.
The twenty-seven miles between
North Bend and Yytton the road over
comes nn elevation of CO feet and all
through this terrible Fraser Cano.i.
Here the united waters of the river
Nicolathe Thompson's, together with
the Frazer river, all coming down
from the north between the two great
j lines of mountain -peaks, creates a
' scene which becomes wider and wider
I with each mile of travel.
We are now In the heart of the Cas
cede range of mountains and seem to
be entering a series, of subterranean
pnssegos leading to tho Inferno. At
' one moment we are poised on the face
! of a dizzy cliff, at another we are cross
j Ing a lofty viaduct now we are in
open space, then we rush through the
I blackness of darkness and as the
river prerlpitates Itself Into these rent
gorges, where the rays of the sun hard
I ly enter, pnndemonlum seems to be
kt loose.
The scene with -the railroad on tho
lr ft bank, the old Cariboo wagon road,
(built by the government In 1M10, nnd
abandoned since the completion of the
Canadian Pacific), on the right, with
the combined rivers surging and
swirling far below, was startling to
behold. The government wagon road
attracts attention all along the Fraaer
and Thompson valleys, nnd It twisted
about the cliffs, first down to the angry
rivers' side, then quickly forced to the
helghth of a thousand feet above the
river, pinned by slender trestles to the
face of a gigantic precipice, was also
a marvel to behold.
As the canon alternately widens and
narrows, the native Indian Is seen on
projecting rooks down to the water's
edge, spearing sulrnon, or scooping
them out with dip-nets, and in sunny
spots, drying them on poles, giving
brilliant touches of color to the land
scape. Chinamen, too, are seen on the
occasional sand bars washing for gold.
Indian villages are found with their
miniature cliupel, unpainted houses,
quaint and barbarously decorated
grave-yards, with banners, streamers,
and all manner of carved "tokens."
As also the occasionul groups of the
huts of the Chinese.
At Cisco, our train enters a long
tunnel and emerges to cross the Canon
by a steel cantilever bridge In mld-atr
and at a dizzy helghth above the
water.
Soon we ascend the Thompson river
and Thompson canon and the river
here changes from the terrible to the
grand. Here the mountains seem to
draw together nnd the railway winds
along their face hundreds of feet above
the struggling water, the gorge nar
rows and deepens, tho frowning cllfts
opposite are mottled and streaked In
many striking colors, while between
the breaks In tho high escarpment,
Bnowy peaks are seen glistening above
the clouds and the scenery becomes
wild and beyond my powers of descrip
tion. Nor is this all. As we ascend this
fantastic canon, there Is a striking con
trast between tho brilliant emerald
green of the Nicola river as It whirls
down Its winding torrent path and the
cliffs through which It passes, which
are of the richest yellow, streaked with
maroon and with masses of solid rust
red earth, over which hangs the sky
of deepest violet.
These strange forms, these gaudy
hues of the rocks, these scantily her
baged terraces. Impress themselves
most strongly on the memory. This
gorge In Its terrifying gloom and deso
lation was remindful of and may be
fittingly named the "Black Canon of
Colorado," as we beheld It In 1892. At
Ashcroft In 48 miles we cover an ad
ditional elevation of 825 feet. This Is
a busy town at the point of departure
for the Cariboo, Barkervllle, and other
gold fields In the northern Interior of
British Columbia. Here are found
freight wagons drawn by from four to
ten yoke of oxen, and long strings of
pack-mules laden with merchandise
going to and from the mines dally.
Pack teams of fifty horses and mules
come down some 250 miles for supplies.
The rate of cartage for that distance
is sixteen dollars a hundred. Hay Is
worth from $fi0 to $70 per ton, and the
cartage of flour $12 per barrel.
IN THE CATTLE COUNTRY.
Here are extensive cattle ranches
nnd some farming Is done. In Cariboo
county are four large gold mining
companies, two English, one American
and one Canadian. The latter has a
capital of $2,000,000 backed by the bank
of Montreal. One brick was lately sent
to that city worth $17,000. Another
company's clean up for the month was
$40,000. Here we found the proverbial
Englishman with his complete outfit,
also some hunters returning from a
week's sport laden with all kinds of
game. Truly, this is the sportsman's
paradise.
From here to Kamloops, 47 miles, the
mountain's spurs are pierced by nu
merous tunnels, one following the
other In close succession. For twenty
miles the rood runs nlong tho shore of
Kamloops Lake, a beautiful hill-girt
sheet of water, made so by the widen
ing of the Thompson river. Kamioops
Is a divisional point. Situated at the
Junction of the north and south
branches of the above rivers, with a
population of 2.000, and Is the principal
town In the Thompson river valley. It
lies In the plateau between the gold
and cascade, or coast range of the
Rockies, 251 miles east of Vancouver.
Years ago It was a Hudson's bay post.
Here Is an Indian reservation, over
looked by St. Paul's mountain. Steam
boats ply the river and lake; nnd saw
mills manned largely by Chinese pre
frequent and briskly running. This
Is a supply point for a large ranching
and mineral region southward. The
principal Industry Is grazing, for the
hlfls are covered with most nutritious
bunch grass. . As we advance for the
next 60 miles, the scene change, the
valley broadens, and the eye that has
been so accustomed to rocks and
roughness and the uninhabited desola
tion of the mountains. Is gladdened by
the sight of grass, fenced fields, grow
ing crops, hay stacks, good farm
houses, on a level surface, while herds
of cattle, sheep and horses, roam In
large numbers over the valley and
bordering hills.
This Is one of the "garden spots" of
British Columbia and the . ranching
country of the gold range. The people
are old settlers, having come from the
Pacific Coast a happy contrast from
the rude cabins and huts of the mountains,-
are the neat and trim cottages
of the "Highlanders" with their evi
dences of thrift all around.
Still other and more attractive fern
ery Is awaiting us In the next fifty
miles, found In and around the lovely
waters of the chain of Shuswap Lakes,
the center of one of the best sporting
regions in the line of the Canadian
Pacific, and the Interior lake region of
British Columbia.
Northward, Cariboo are abundant
and within thirty miles Is fine deer
shooting, probably unequalled on this
continent, and on this Immense chain
of lakes Is famous sport In deep troll
ing trout. If Is nt Notch Hill station
we come out upon the salmon arm of
the great Shuswap at an elevation of
some COO feet above the water and thus
got a magnificent view across it as far
as the eye can reach. This Is named
from an Indian tribe that lived on It--
banks and who still have a reservation
here; This Is a most remarkable body
of water lying among mountain ridges
with high bold shores and fringed by
the Hue narrow beach of saml and
pebbles, and with bays and capes pre
sent beautiful views. For. r0 miles our
railway winds In nnd out Its bending
shores.
AROUND LAKE OKANAGAN.
Slcamous Junction, 3,13 miles from
Vancouver, Is the station for the min
ing district of Spallumshoen, and other
regions up the river around Lake
Okanagan, reached by stenmer. This
country Is a veritable earthly paradise,
growing all fruits, cereals, etc., that
the 'temperate zone can produce. Here
are enormous wheat fields. Lord Ab
erdeen, the governor general of the
dominion, has a ranch here of 300 acres
which yield perfect wheat with no
smut, sixty bushels to the acre. Hn
has the largest fruit farm and also
cattle ranch In the dominion at Vernon
and Kclawna. Near here. Is an Eng
lish tobacco ranch: samples shown us
were of strong fibre and free from
worms; the lack of rains, frostf etc..
cause promote and luxurious growth.
Slcamous Is only 250 miles in an air
line of Spokane, AVashlngton, across
the International border.
CROSSING THE SELKIRK RANGE.
We are now at the end and base of
the gold range of mountains and com
mence the ascent of tho "Selklrks"
through Eagle Pass, at an elevation of
1,300 feet.
The Selkirk mountains running par
allel to the Rocky Mountains proper,
arc frequently included under one
name the Rockies though of dis
tinct formation, exhibiting an en
tirely different series of rock. There
is a' valley of most remarkable length
ami regularity extending from the
southern boundary line niong the west
ern baseof the Kocky Mountains as fur
as the northern limits of the 8elklrks,
a dif-tnnce of over 700 miles and divid
ing the two ranges. The average width
of the Rocky Mountain range Is about
s.xty miles, diminishing to the north:
that of the Selklrks is about eighty
rriles. The economic value of the Bel
kirk range lies In the very valuable
Cef esits of precious and base metals.
The Rockies conta n a great rotentl.il
wealth of valuable minerals and exten
sive seams of coal, and deposit of
Iron' and other useful metals. The av
erage altitude of the Selklrks are noc
greatly Inferior to the Rock'es the
highest peaks rising from 8,000 to
10,000 feet, culminating at the head
quarters of Saskatchewan, (Mt Mur
chfson), iwlth an altitude of 13,CH) feet.
There are twelve passes over the Rock
ies at elevations ranging from 7,100
feet to 2,000 feet. The summits of the
Selklrks rival In grandeur those of the
Rockies, being more rounded and less
l K-clpltouB than the latter, and llielr
sides up to several thousand fe.Jt are
clothed In dense forest affording an
unlimited supply of good timber.
The Valley at the basj of the 8-dklrks
is Piled throughout with a dense
srowth of Immense trees. (Who haa
r.ot heard of the almost fabulous pio
portlons of the trees of British Col
umbia?) Douglass firs, cedar, hemlock,
balsam and other varieties giants all
of them. This pass (Eagle) Is so deep
cut and direct, that It seems to have
le.fn purposely provided far the rail
way In order to overcome th enr.r
mcus difficulties In crossing the Sel
klrks. The pass Is not over a mile
wide with lofty mountains rising ab
ruptly on each side. The highest point
reached by the road in this pass Is
at Summit Lake, only eight miles from
the Columbia river and 525 feet above
It. In fact here are four beautiful
lakes, .Summit, Victor, Three Valley,
ami Griffin, they are In close succes
sion, each occupying the entire width
of the valley and forcing the railway
into the mountain sides. I must ask
the reader to Imagine the scenery In
part, as my words fail of description.
WHEN THE LAST SriKE WENT
DOWN.
Reaching'Cralgellachle our attention
was called to the spot where the last
spike, uniting the rails from the cast
and the west over this great highway
was driven on. November 7, 1SS5, thus
finishing one of the greatest engineer
ing structures ever undertaken by
man. We now leave behind us the Im
posing nnd plncier-Rtudded Mt. Begbie
of the gold range, also the two eternal
snow clad peaks Mackenzie and Fll
ley lying southeast from us and com
mence at Clanwilliam. At one Uvatlon
of i9'.)5 feet, the descent of 520 feet to
the Columbia river., nine miles to
Revelstoke, a divisional point, also a
supply point f"r the mining districts
up and down tho noble stream.
COLUMBIA RIVER.
. The Columbia which has made a
great detour around tho northern ex
tremity of the Selklrks, Is here very
wide and deep nnd crossed ona brldg;
of over a half o mile long.
We have traveled ncross the moun
tainous peninsular formed by the great
bend of the Columbia, a distance of
seventy-eight miles, while In tlowln;?
northward. It has formed a loop of
over 200 miles and descended 1.050 feot.
It Is navignble southward over 200
miles to the International boundary,
altogether 723 miles. This Columbia Is
a narvel, one of the great river of
North America, neither the Dominion
'or American lay exclusive claim to
It It' is In reality an American river,
rising In Oregon it turns towards the
North Star Into the Dominion running
is sold
by all dealers,
everywnere, in
one, three and five
pound tins, each bearing this label, with
trade-marks "Cottolcne" and stents head in
cotton-plant wreatk. It is at once the best,
most wholesome and . least expensive
shortening in existence; ' .. ' :
Cottolene has done more forthecause
of good health, through better cooking,
than any other agency. Made only by
The N. K. Fttfrbank Company,
CHICAGO.
NCW YORK.
In all directions, east, west, north and
south, constanly increasing in volume
and binding more firmly our two coun
tries whose race and language are the
same, and whose true Interests are one.
As wo cross It at Revelstoke we can
scarcely realize that It Is the same
stream we crossed by the Northern
Pacific at Pasoo Junction, Washington,
and at the Dalles by the Union Pacific,
where It was turned on Its edge and
compressed Into a narrow cleft, be
twtgi Ilalaltic rock of one hundred and
thirty feet, or at Foi t Vancouver where
It forms a confluence with the Wil
lamette and again at Kalma, Oregon,
by the Union Pacific where It seemed
like an open sea In extent rushing with
mighty power into the broad Pacific.
Twelve mlls below Jtevelstoke It ex
pands Into the Arrow Lakes which are
navigable for steamers 165 miles to
Robson, and from there to Northport
on the Columbia, where rail connection
Is made by the Northern Pacific for
Spokane Fulls.
This route also leads to tho famous
Kootenay mining district on Kootenay
Lake, where are numerous rich gold,
sliver and copper mines referred to In
our Northern Paciflo series, also
reached by that road.
GREAT COLD MINING CAMP.
At Rossland is a great gold mining
camp, the most important ever dis.
covai'ed in Canada. Americans from
Spokane are developing these mines,
paying their laborers $3.50 per day.
Very large nuggets of gold have been
found here. Heretofore the gold of
British Columbia has been found in
pockets and the washings of river
sand and gravel. This camp Is like
tho American mines found In "leads"
some of these leads are two feet In
circumference. War Eagle mine em
ploys 75 men and the output Is $50,000
per month. A smelter Is being built
there. But we are digressing.
At Revelstoke, we enter again the ob
servation car and commence the as
cent of the Selklrks for Twln-Butte,
a distance of twelve miles. The sta
tion takes Its name from the huge
double summit nearby, called Macken-zle-Tllley.
On approaching the station
a beautiful peak looms up to the left
called Clachnacoodin. Soon the narrow
valley again becomes a gorge and the
railway and river dispute the passage
through a chasm with vertical rocky
walls standing but ten yards apart.
THROUGH ALBERT CANON.
Leaving Twln-Butte, we soon enter
the gorge of the Illlcllliwaet river. In
Albert Canon, where the river Is seen
300 feet below the railway compressed
Into a boiling flume scarcely twenty
feet wide. Here the train stops for a
few moments to enable the passengers
from solidly built balconies to safely
look at the awful gorge and Into the
boiling cauldron below. The tropin runs
closely along the brink of several re
markably deep fissures In the solid
rock whose .walls rise straight up hun
dreds of feet on both sides of wooded
crags, above which sharp distant peaks
cut the sky. All along this gorge for
miles as It .widens out there are
exceedingly grand outlooks, nnd
the gigantic trees, for which
British Columbia Is famous,
ore found here abundantly. The Illlc
llliwaet river here is not la'ge, but the
stream es It comes from the distant
glacier Is turbulent. Its water pea
green with glacial mud, but rapidly
clearlfles. Caribon and other largo
game are found here In great numbers,
and all the way down the Columbia.
At the station are many sliver mines
penetrating the crest of one of the lofty
hills north of the railway.
At Russ Peak station we are at an
altitude of 3.B09 feet and commence to
climb the "Loops," to the Glacier
House, peven miles distant, when we
overcome an additional elevation of 522
feet. Two locomotives are required for
the nseent. This "loup" is a skilful
piece of engineering, scarcely second to
none on our continent. Looking for
ward on the mountain slope the rall-
; roads are seen cutting two long gashes.
one above the other. It makes several
I startling turns and twists, first running
I parallel with Its former course, cross-
Ing the canon, touching the Cougar
I mountain on the other side doubling
j back a mile or more upon Itself to
within n stones toss, touching ror a
moment nt the base of the Ross Peak,
then climbing to Ross Peak Glacier.
Tho superb mountain views may he
imagined, for every turn of the de
vious pathway brings fresh scenic
marvels. The "Cascade of Tears" Is
a beautiful, fall of 1.000 feet, bringing
tears of emotion to the beholder.
Our arrival at tho Glacier House and
the "Great Glacier" of the Selklrks.
ends our second day's experience at
sight-seeing on this great national
highway.
A description of this great phenomenon-
will appear next week.
J. E. Richmond.
Bmnrt Child.
Mainlle "Mamma, If 'ou died would 'ou
'climb the golden stairs'?"
Mamma "I suppose I would, my dear."
Jlaudle "I wouldn't, mamma. J'd ta.ke
th elsvator." Truth.
HI LA DELPHI A,
PITTSBURGH).
C0nPLEXI0.4 BLLMISHES
May bo bidden imperfectly by cosmetics ana
powders, but ciui only be removed perma
nently by
HETSEL'S SUPERIOR FACE BLEACH.
H will positively remove Freckles, Tan.
Moth, Sallownesa, ami rum nay diseama ol
the akin, auch hh Pimples, Acne, Blackhead.
Ollincaa, aud renders the akin aoft and beau
tituL Price SI per bottle. For sale at
E. M. HETSEL'S
33a Lackawanna Ave., Scranton, Pa.
Standard
ilcos
STABLE and FARM
IMfCA AXLE GREASE,
I $$TjHJHtJH0H(lfOII.Ht fZWi00Tif.
NEW YORK CARRIAGE GREASE;.
fOt.llQHT.WtOONS AMD HAVrJAgRU08
BOSTON COACH AXLE
imNDARDJ.EA THER pit. 1
1EUREKf HARNESS' 0K
I JHC.BCST HWSS.OIljfifBi!
BUDDY HARVESTER OIL.
i. .tJIIC.MCAVt BODt fORJtlMJIilSilSltll
yAVORI7Eliroimmi:o'k
f i Coach and Carriage Carfdlea 1
V On 1 ALB 1 VI BY WHERE.
FOR SALE BY THE
ATLANTIC REFINING CO
SCRANTON. PA.
THR IDEAL AMERICAN TRIP
NOKTHEUN STbAMSHIP COMPANY.
The tiuporbly Appointed and Commodious
Fteel Steamships,
NORTH Wl-ST AND NORTHLAND,
American through and through,
leave Buffalo Tuenlsvs and Fridays O.JO p.m.
for Cleveland, Detroit, Mackinac. The Soa.
Duluth, and Western Point, passilif all
plurod of iuterest by daylight In conneottoa
W" THE GREAT NORTHERN RAILWAY,
it forms tbe most direct route, and from er
ery point nf rompurisrn, the most delightful
anil cumfortahl'i one to Minneapolis, Ft. Pan),
(treat Falls, Helena, lintto. Bpcicana and Pa
eilli; ccast. 'Ihe otilv transcontinental lina
running the famous buffet, library, observe
tion car.
N ew 87 hour train fer Portlnnd ! Spokane.
HOTEL LAPAVLTTI!, Lake Alinnetoaka.
16 miles from Miuneapnlif, largest and moat
beantlul resort In the wrst.
'liuketeaud any information of any agent or
A. A. HtAltU, Uenerul Passenger agent,
Buffalo, N. Y. i
IF22
r?W vilWWIAa-aJM'.wyaaaaT ea
Ti il ? a n u i semi rn 'si is assssaaej
V.'hr.t Sarah Bernhard ay
Houses for Sals and for Rent
It ynu contemplate purchasing; or leaaw
Ing a house, er want to invest In a let,
ace the lists ol desirable property
page a ol 1 be Tribune.
t
I
' - - . i'i .4 i i