, . THE PITTSBURG DISPATCH. SUNDAY, .MARCH 27, 1892L 13 -, 1 .. - i ..- - . i ' - ' - j3 TWENTYENTS EACH An Allegheny Woman "Who Kept Her Family of Five for a Dollar a Day. HER FIGURES FOR IT. Bills of Fare and What They Cost During Last September. A BIG B001I FOR MATRIMONY. Ko Young- Man Should Hesitate After Bead ing !his Record. IDWARD ATXIXSON OX TIGITABLES t witiTTrs roK the Disr wcn.i Apropos of the article in The Dispatch a lew weeks ago from Edward Atkinson, on the cost of living in Boston, I thought my experience of the cost of living in Alle gheny might be ol benefit to others who are not blessed with large incomes. I had been fortunate all my life in hiving plenty. I never had to economize in my table ex penses, until a short time since, when we lctalland were reduced to a 'very small income. I have been obliged to keep the table expenses with a dollar a day, for a family ot five, consisting of two males and three females. Three are blessed with good appetites, two are rather dainty. I keep no servant, therelore do my own cooking. I put up fruit in the summer, keeping an recount of the cost of it. The cost of all I divided by the number of pints I canned, making each pint cost 7 cents. "Whenever I open a can, I add the cost of it to the monthly expenses. The Fare for a Month. Below I give the bill of fare for the month of September, 1891; after that will give the cost and quantity ot provisions bought for that month. I vi ill also note all guests entertained during the month and the absence of any of the lamily. It is to be understood we have sugar, cream and butter each meal: also home-mads light bread. I buy enough milk each day to get all the cream we need. L Ki-cuUlabt (at tins timo one of the fam llv is absent, leaving but four in lamily), hot lmcuit, tomato preserves, coffee; lunoh, cold bl-cuit, boiled ham, cherry pie: dinner, tried ham, stened con., tried potatoes, hot roll-, pcicli cobbler, tea. 2. UrcaLlabt, warmed rolls, preserves, cof fee milk: lunch, chip beef, li.;ht bread, cold peach cobbler; dinnei, port chops, stewed corn, filed potatoes, sliced cucumbers, cake preserves with cream, tea. 3 Breakfast, cornmeal cakes syrup, pre serves, cake, coffee, milk; lunch, cold filed ham chip beef, cake; dinner, fried ham, sweet potatoes, sliced tomatoes, cucumbers, pickles, tomato preserve-, tea- 4 Breaklast, corn cakes svrnp, coffee cake, cotlee: lunch, cold ham, "bread, coffee cake, dinner, boiled ham, corn on ear, boiled potatoes, sliced tomatoes and cucumbcis, eireaica-e, pickles hot rolls, tea. 5 Brc.il.ast, corn cakes, syrup, cold boiled ham, coffee: lunch, bread, boiled ham, coffee cake: dinner, tried beetstcak with srravy, boiled potatoes corn on tar, sliced tomatoes, pieties, tea. f Breaklast, corn cakes syrup, coffee; lunch, bread, peaches and cream; dinner, boiled eggs, hot biscuit, pickles, cup cake, peaches and cream, ten. The sixth was Sunday. That night the absent meiubci returned, bringing a visitor, making the Janiily six in number. Tor a Iamily or Six 7Bi eakfast, batter cakes, syrup, tomato preseive-, peaches, coflee: lunch, Hied epgs, cold biscuit, peach pie, preserves, cup cake, tea, dinner, boiled beef w ith dumplings and Ti-avj, boiled potatoes, butter beans with, corn, hot bicuit, cun cake. tea. 8. Breakfast, hot biscuit, s rup, fried eggs, peach pre-erves, coffee, milk; lunch, cold biscuit, cold sliced beef, peach pie, cupcake, tea; dinnei, tried veal cutlets with gravy, cold butter beans with corn, cucumbers and tomatoes, sn eet potatoes, fried potatoes, hot rolls, peach preserves with cream, tea. 9. Breaklast, corn and flour cakes syrup, preserves, coffee, milk: lunch, eggs, cup cake, preserves, tea; dinner, boiled beef with graxj, stewed corn, sweet potatoes, nresenes with cieam, tea. lu Breaklast, eggs, hot rolls, cold sliced beef, coffee lunch, cold beef, cold rolls, pre terves, tea: dinnei, boiled bacon and cab bage, cold bcel, cold rolls, corn bread, pota toes, tea. 11. Breakfast, corn ana flour cakes, syrup, cold beef, coflee, milk; lunch (two guests foi lunch), tried chicken, mashed potatoes, urect potatoes, sliced tomatoes, pickles, smearcase, peaches and cream, angel cake, coffee, dinner, cold chicken, hash, mashed potatoes, sweet potatoes, sliced tomatoes, corn bread, Dickies, smearcase, peaches and cream, anccl cake, tea. 12 Breaktat, corn cakes, syrup, fried bacon, pieserves pickles, coffee; lunch, cold bacon, prcserx e, pickles tea: dinner, boiled eggs, stewed corn, sweet potatoes, boiled Irish potatoescucumbers. pickles, preserves, angel cake, tea. The Sunday ISUI or Fare. 13. Sunday, breakfast, fried bacon, hot bis cuit, syrup, coffee; dinner, broiled steak, fried bacon, cold biscuit, corn on ear, boiled potatoes, cucumbers, pickles, apple pie. Jelly cake, tea. 11 Breakfast, hot biscuits, eggs, preserves, coffee, lunch, cold biscuit, apple jelly, apple pie, angel and jelly cake, tea; dinnei, boiled ggs, sw cet potatoes, corn, cucumbers, filed potatoes, hot biscuit, apple jelly. Jelly cake, tea. 15 Breakfast, batter cakes, coffee cake, tvrup, peach marmalade, apple Jelly, coffee; lunch, cold biscuit, bacon, jelly, coffee cake, tea: dinner, broiled steak, tried bacon, hot rolls, sw eet potatoes, boiled potatoes, pickles, ctewed pears, apple jelly, tea, 16. Bi eakta-t, coffee cake, syrup, marma lade, coffee, milk; lunch, coffee cake, pre serves, pears, tea; dinner, broiled ham, stewed pears. Jelly, pickles, apple pie, tea. 17. Breakfast, hot biscuit, corn calces, Bvrup. coflee cake, jelly, coffee; lunch, cold bi-tmt, coffee cake, jelly, stewed pears, tea; dinnei, tiled ham, boiled potatoes, boiled onions, pickles, jellj, apple sauce, stewed pears, apple and crcain pie, tea. IS Breaklast, steamed bread, apple sauce, pears coffee, milk; lunch, cold tried ham, Itrapes and peaches, chocolate cake, coffee: dinner (three guests for dinner), smothered chickens, mai'ied potatoes, stewed corn, sliced tomatoes apple sauce, chocolate cake, peaches and grapes, coffee. 10. Break'ast, hot biscuit, syrup, apple sauce, coffee; luncn, cold boiled ham. eggs, cold biscuit, apple pie, chocolate cake, grapes and peaches, tea; dinner, fried oys ters, hot rolls, baked corn, mashed potatoes, cake, fi ult, apple butter, cider, tea. 20, Sunda, breakfast, corn cakes, syrup, apple butter, chocolate cake, pears, coffee: Dinner, broiled ham, mashed potatoes, cola baked corn, sliced tomatoes, apple butter, pickles, grape and apple pie, cake, crapes, cnocolate, cider. 21. Breaklast, not rolls, apple butter. Jelly, coffee; lunch, eggs, applo butter, tea; dinner, filed ham and bacon, scrambled eggs, baked potatoes, sliced tomatoes, apple butter, grape pie, tea. Down to riva A rain. 12. Breakfast, corn and flour cakes, syrup, coffee; lunch, eggs, bacon, grape pie, tea; (our guest who came the 7th left the 22d); dinner, fried steaS with gravy, hot biscuit, tweet potatoes, apple jeily, sliced tomatoes, 2& Breakfast, hot rolls, syrnp, Jelly, coffee: lunch, cold steak, cold rolls hard boiled e-ss doughnuts: dinner, iried flank steak w"ith gravy. Jr.ed tomatoes, boiled potatoes, apnle "auce, doughnuts, tea. 24 Breaklast. iried ham, applo sauce, doughnuts, coffee; lunch, cold ham, apple sauce, doughnuts, pears; dinner, Iried ham, baked potatoes, sliced tomatoes.applo sauce, dou 'lmuts, tea. 25 Breakfast, fried steak with frravy, corn cakes, syrup, coffee: lunch, cold beet steak, cold egg", apple sauce, doughnuts; dinner, fri'd ovoters. crackers, white beans, sliced tomatoes, apple sauce, doughnuts, tea. 2G. Ill eakfast. not rolls, sjrup, npple Jelly, coffee: lunch, cold ham, apple sauce, pears, dou-hniits dinner, Ii led ham, boiled pota toes? cucumbeis, apple Jelly, pear preserves, tea 27. Sunday, bi eakfast, ham, eggs, fried potatoes, pear preserves, coffee: dinner, Ined ham, sweet potatoes, boi'ed Irish pota toes, sliced cucumbers, tomato preserves, tea, milk. ... . 28. Breakfast, hot biscuit, syrup, tomato preserves, coflee; lunch, ham, hard-boiled eggs, tomato preserves: dinner, scrambled eggs hot rolls, boiled potatoes, pickles cream pie, tea. 29. Breakfast, corn cakes syrup, cherry preserves, coflee; lunch, bread, cherry pre serves, cream pie; dinner, fried bacon and eggs boiled potatoes head cheese, cucum bers cream pie, tea. SO. Breakfast, bread, sausage, coffee; lunch, cold sausage, tomnto preserves, cust ard pie; dinner, beef soup, crackers boiled beet, boiled potatoes, crapes, tea. Where the Money Went. Below is the provision bought for Sep tember and the cost of it: 1 Milk tickets, 50; 1 pound butter, SO; 2 pounds meat, 30; corn, 12 $ 1 2 Oorn, 18: J peck potatoes, 10; cucum bers, 3; peaches, 15 8 1 pounds meat, 23; 1 ruir, 10: 1 pound meat, 20; 2 pounds lard, 20 73 4 Sweet potatoes, 10: 2 pounds meat, 25: sugar, 25; smearcase, 10 70 6-Cucumbers, 5; pound tea. 20: 2J pounds butter, 73; vegetables, 55.. 1 53 6 IK pounds meat, 23 23 7 Me it, 20; 3 pounds lard, 35: eggs, 18 8 reaches, SO; sugar, 25: vegetables and meat, S3; milk, 50 1 S3 9 Butter, 7i: vegetables, 22: jeast, 2; coffee, 35, cgs. 9 1 3 10 Meal. 20; 3 pounds meat. 45; eggs, 18: chicken, 50; peaches, 20 1 63 11 Vanilla, 20; bacon, C7: ' rolls, fi: smearcase, 10; butter, 31 93 12 Eggs, 9; meat, 30; vesetablcs 29; sugai, 25; butter, $1 33; milk, 50 .. 2 78 li Eggs, 18; vegetables 05; pears, 10; apples. 8; meat, 81 "1 72 16 Sugar, 50: eggs, IS; ltoyal baking ponder, 23: pepner, 10 1 03 17 2'i pounds lard, 23; j east, 2; ham, 40, Coin, 25; egss, 9 96 18 Tomatoes, 5, peaches, 15: J pound tea, 26; salt, 5: grapes, 35 80 19 Chickens $1 25; eggs 20; yeast, 2; milk, 5J: cider, 25 2 22 20 Apple buttei, 15: butter, 32; oysters, 23; eggs, 40; coffee, 35 147 22 Flour, $1 05; peck potatoes, 20; sweet potatoes, 25; butter, 33. 2 43 23 Tomatoes, 4: Apples, 10; eggs, 10; steak, 25: rolls, 5: sugar, 25 79 245 pounds lard, 50; ham, 30; butter, 30: 'sugir, 25; beans, 10 1 45 25 Steak, 25; yeast, 2; oysters, 25; ou- cumbers, 3: smearcase, 10 61 26 Butter. 90. meat, 36; soda, 10; crack ers. 10. esrgs, 20; v east, 2 1 78 27 Egs, 40. bacon, 35, 5 pounds laid, 50. meat, 19. svrup, 25; sausage, 15. . 1 84 30 Eggs, 20, head cheese, 15 33 Total for month S31 16 The expenses were 51 16 over the allow- ance of $1 per day, which was caused by the guests that were entertained. ECONOMY. THE VEGETARIAN DIET. It Is More Expensive Than the Meat Diet Best Way to Trepare Vegetables Sur prises Caused by Retaining the Flaws Beans and Peas. tWEITTEX FOB TIIE DISrATCU. The cost of a strictly vegetable diet, which would include butter, milk and eggs, would be greater in this country than the cost of an ordinary diet including meat. How far this may be changed by the intro duction of cooked cheese in connection with a vegetarian diet one cannot yet state, and it is not my purpose to deal with this ques tion, but rather to treat of the preparation of grain, roots and other vegetables which enter into the customary supply of food. Grains like oatmeal, cornmeal and cracked wheat, which are eaten in the shape of mush or porridge, may be dealt with in either one of two ways: First, by long ap plication of heat below the boiling point. "When treated in this way the fine flavors of each specific grain are retained, and the cooked product is in very digestible condi tion, unless it is hastily swallowed. Starchy foods should be eaten slowly. If swallowed rapidly or bolted in the customary way they may not prove to be as digestible or nu tritious as one had a right to expect Oatmeal Over a Quick fire. Oatmeal may be cooked over a quick fire in onlv water enough to swell the grain. Bice may also he cooked very quickly in boiling water for a short time; the propor tion of water should be so great as to give each grain room to swell separately. In dealing with the grains it is a matter of taste or convenience which plan of cooking is em ployed, but the cooking must be thqrough. The roots containing cellulose, especially potatoes, customarily require a higher de gree of heat than either meat or grain in order to bake them thoroughly. The scien tific writers upon cookery give preference to baked potatoes over boiled on account of the retention of the mineral salts which are dissolved in water. In boiling potatoes should be subjected to a quick heat so as to rupture or break the starch cells without giving time to change the stareh into dextrine. Carrots, beets and parsnips may rightly be boiled, even though the process deprives them of their very decided flavor. They have so much flavor that they mav even be im proved in the process of boiling, as the Norwegians who live continually upon sal mon boil it in order to deprive it of a part of its flavor, so that it may remain perfect ly palatable; otherwise it cloys Boiling Inside the Oven. Boiling can be more conveniently and readily accomplished on a kerosene oil or gas stove than in any other kind of oven. But beets, carrots and parsnips, as well as other roots may be cooked in the oven for a long time very slowly in closed vessels, sub jected to the same degree of heat that is re quired in roasting meat from 300 to 350 de grees Fahrenheit. Green vegetables peas, beans and the like, are very deliriously cooked in th's way. They retain a very much finer flavor thau when subjected to the customary heat ot the iron stove in an open vessel or when boiled. When the heat is properly regulated all kinds of fruit and vegetables may be cooked in the oven, in vegetable dishes china, porcelain or stoneware open or cov ered. The watery kinds require very little water. The drier kinds may have a little water added. The steam generated at the higher heat to w hick the outside of the ves sel is subjected raises the temperature with in the covered vessel only to about the boil ing point; and while the vessel may not be steam tight lest it burst, yet it may be suf ficiently tight to retain the aromatic oils which should not be carried offj thus assur ing the full .flavor, whatever it may be. One lady, who had thus cooked them in the oven, inlormed me that she had then "for the first time tasted many kinds of vegetable which she had been eating all her lite." In the rice-fed nations very large quantities ot leguminous plants o: the pea and bean order are consumed with the rice; tbey furnish nitrogen, in which rice is de ficient. Full nutrition and strength could not be, attained on a diet consisting wholly of rice. Bice is almost wholly starch. How Chinamen Get Nitrogen. The Chinese not only produce but con sume large quantities of beans, and bean oil is the principle oil of China. The bean meal leit alter the oil is expressed is used to feed the stock and also as a fertilizer. The cotton seed meal of our own country is also put to the same use. The Chinese have fertilized their sugar grounds with bean meal tor centuries, our sugar planters are only just beginning to learn to use their cotton seed Jor the same purpose. The Chinese also eat chickens, the eggs of ducks and many other foods which furnish nitro gen, using rice as we use bread and potatoes Very little attention is given in the Northern United States to dried peas and beans except in getting up the noted Sew England dainty, baked beans Dried split peas, or whole'peas, should be cooked at a moderate heat for a very longtime. In the New England kitchen pea 'soup is made which possesses au entirely different flavor from the ordinary pea soup. The soup is being subjected to the heat of a lamp all night; in the morning It is strained and dealt with according to regular recipes The straining is essential in order to remove a considerable amount of cellulose or woody fibre which is separated by the long process of cooking; this being removed, leaves the soup in a much more nutritious and digesti ble condition. Uses of l'eai and Beans. ' There appears to be less knowledge in this county than anywhere else of the right use of rice and the leguminous plants of the THE TABLE. TIE pea and bean varieties Bice constitutes the starchy element of food among a greater number of people than derive their subsist ence from other grains There are more than 300 varieties ot rice. Some ot them re quire no irrigation and contain more nitro gen than the swamp or Carolina rice to which We are accustomed. There is a var iety of -rice growing upon the Himalaya Mountains which sprouts in the spring through the snow, and there is mountain rice in Japan which matures in a very cold climate. The reason assigned by the English com mission tor not expecting any larger sup ply of wheat lrom India is, ttiat the land within reach of railways or waterways that can be spared from rice and pulse is so limited that it " forbids any further ex- .:., nf nh..t AnltivallATt The TllllseS- or pea. and bean crops, occupy a larger number ot varieties of bush-beans and peas, and of trailing plants xaryine in the proportion of nitrogen, and in other re spects. They are cultivated in the hot lands, Certain bushy beans are grown as a food planted around the field for its protection, sometimes in alternate rows Of these varie ties of bean and pea there appears to be very little knowledge in this country. Much greater attention might also be given to the consumption of cheese in this country. It may take the place of meat of which we are wasteful in a greater or less measure. Skim-milk cheese properly cooked with the addition ot a little bicarbonate of soda may be made into the most appetizing and very digestible compounds Edwaed Atktnsos'. A DIHHEB TO & DIPLOMAT, To Which Senators Furnished the Choicest Their States Afford. rwirmxx fob the Etsr.TCB.t A. little dinner was to be given at Cham berlain's one winter's day, in "Washington, in honor of a young diplomat who had been at the Capital but a short .time. "It must be a fine affair," said the Senator from Kentucky. "I've a notion to furnish a Kentucky 'south-down mutton myself 1" "Suppose we ask Vest to send some of his favorite sausage," proposed another. "Kentucky- sausage, too! 'Well!" laughed Senator Jones, of Nevada, who is one of the epicures, "Blackburn's Kentucky spareribs, and Beck's mutton, and Vest's sausage; it might be called a Kentucky set out!" The dinner came off in due course of time. In their dress suits the gentlemen took their seats at the table. Flowers were plentiful in "handsome vases and bowls ' Ferns and mosses grew out of a rocky cave of glitter ing ice in the center of the well-laid table. Scarlet lobsters and pale, pink shrimps re posed in curly lettuce and pounded ice. Lynn Haven ovsters came on, roasted in their shells Chespeake Bay contributed her most expensive delicacies, such as diamond-back terrapin and canvas-back ducks Virginia boasted of " her deviled crabs, and the historic Potomac was wondrously repre sented. The young diplomat was astonished at the fabulous tales ot these gentlemen. "Our state! Onr river! Our bay!" "What a country this must be! Meanwhile, he ate industriously, and praised each new dish the most He be came satisfied that he had reached the cen ter of America, and that all the markets of the world must be supplied from the rich lands of Kentucky, Virginia and Maryland. The dinner was drawing to a close. The courses were served well and -everything was delicious Champagne and wines were getting low in the handsome glasses Con serves glaces and bon-bons were brought in. They lingered a little over their coflee. "We've never before had a dinner at Chamberlain's without a Mahone haml" said one. "I, too, miss Billy Mahone and his Virginia hams" said another, r- "The" Mahone ham?" repeated a third guest, a stranger, too, inquiringly. "Why, General Billy Mahone lives In Virginia, near Smithfield, where his won' dertul pigs are raised and the hams cured. Last winter you couldn't buy one for f50. Only one grocer in Washington had 100 or so for sale tor special dinners!" 'The modest diplomat ventured to Inter rogate the Senator nearest him: "Why do you think the animals so rare? So so costly?" The Senator replied: "Yon see, the hams are very small and delicate; not large and fat like coarst Western meat I. They are cured with great care by old servants of the' Mahones (used to be slaves and understand their business), and " "But," asked another guest, "why are they better than any other pigs?" "Peanuts, sir! peanuts! not allowed to eat anything else, makes most delicious meat!" The diplomat wrote home of this dinner to friends: "They give fine dinners in Washington. They treat you like one Prince. They eat everything out of the waters near to the capital, and everything on the land. All the small beasts at Mon sieur Chamberlain's were dee-lee-cious! One fine animal was forgotten by a wealthy Senator. He was darned Peanuts and lives in Virginia, near to the place where King George sent people to America." ART IN WOMEN'S DRESS. The Secret Is That the FIgara Mast Be Draped The Ancient Greek Costumes Designs From Great Painters A Tennis Gown. rwnmxN roa the dispatch-i "But, my dear girl." said a well-known artist the other day, "don't you understand that I am not complaining because there is fashion? Fashion is the search for nov elty, for surprise, for relief from the ennui of reiteration. Art, whether it be on can vas, or in books, or in music, is doing the same thing finding new effects It is the essence ot art to manage this eIementof sur prise. But art looks for new ways of tell- Vatican Minerva. ing the old story of beauty. Now, fashion by which, of course, you will understand that I mean fashion in the dress of women kind seems most 'of the time to be think ing not at all about beauty. Every essential element of theJreek costuta could be adopted in our dress There are abundant opportunities In 'summer and' fall dresses, Mm Wm lull BOUDOIR, HOME DECORATIONS . ID HYGIENE. . , . . J In an evening dress you women have no ex cuse for not adopting the Greek costume in pleno. "Let me remind you for a moment of the Minerva of the "Vatican. Did you ever study her costume? Such drapery! Could not any modern woman with perfect pro- Eriety wear a costume like that? It com ines anoble simplicity with the .loveliest decorative beauty, and with the. choice of material placed at the hand of the modern it might be made ravishing. I offer you without cost a hint that "Worth would charge you 5500 for steal the gown of the . Julia Marlowe as Viola. Minerva of the Vatican. Then there is the Agrippini and other Roman figures? I would not blame you for passing some of the Italian designs of the sixteenth and earlier centuries. "When it comes to paintings you have a multitude of suggestions Even the early Italian painters, with their frequent reiter ations, will teach many a good thing in drapery, while you may actually go among the Dutch painters for some exquisiteideals. Then you have charming suggestions from Watteau if you keep in mind that he yielded a good deal to fashions and laced his figures Take that 'Bust of a Girl,' by Watteau, in the Louvre. The sleeve is a masterpiece of drapery, and what a rebuke to the sleeve ot your modern gowns, bunched at the shoulder and murdering one of the most beautiful lines in a woman's figure! Here we come to that paramount principle you see I am getting more didactic every min ute thut clothes must drape the figure. If I were writing that word I would put it in capitals Clothing that does not drape, but follows the form, is never artistic. It should suggest and not model the figure. Women wear waists that fit them like a glove and then drop into drapery when It comes to the skirt. They incase their arms until they are miserable, interfering with the circula tion and making their arms correspondingly thin. Every line of a gown should suggest the natural fall of the cloth. "The same with gloves The 'sausage look' has been advisedly used in speaking of the fashionable woman's gloved hand. The ugliness here is primarily the result of From a Sketch by Kaemmerer. the notion that a hand is.prettv because it is small! Go to art, thou glove-wearer, for a rebuke. Yes, the glove should drape the hand. With the pressure they bear, gloves should fit snugfy, buWhey should not defer to a commendation that a small foot is pretty. It a foot is small enough to look weak it. is not beautiful. -And here comes the main argument against a small waist The waist is the zone of the body, the point at which its strength and its drap eries are bound up. A waist should look strong. Does a sheaf of wheat look weak vi here the binders hold it? Look at any beautiful figure among the Greek and Boman creations! A fashionable girl with her small waist looks sometimes as if she might drop in two. "The artist, Kaemmerer, has made some very clever drawings in the style of the em pire gowns. These designs are exquisitely simple, but so far as the waist is concerned you may be sure they would be charged with illustrating 'no shape.' The French are prodigal in costumes A great many of these, I must contess, are simply realistic adaptations of fashionable ideas But a great many of them are delightfully catchy. Have you seen Julia Marlowe as Viola? Why is it not a good out-doorcostume? You could play tennis in it, and you could climb mountains in it You would declare yon had never been so comfortable before in all your life. Do you know, I think that if you would only let yourselves act on the inner impulse you would be all right" A HOUSEHOLD ASSISTANT Prescribed by .Emma P. Ewlng Famous 'With AU Chautaoquans. Emma P. Ewing sends The Dispatch the following: An excellent allele is Lavelle water for removing stains and grease and for various other cleaning purposes It is frequently .kept on sale by druggists, but it can easily -be prepared in the household for about a quarter of the price a druggist would charge for it. This is the way to make it: Dissolve a pound of ordinary washing soda' in a gallon of rain water and boil ten minutes; then add a pound of chloride of lime and stir the mix ture well. Let it settle; pour off, the clear liquid, put it in a "jug or bo'ttle and cork tightly till wanted. Add more water to the settlings and use it for scrubbing floors, un painted shelves, tables, etc It makes them surprisingly white. I ' We pack, haul, ship, alter, repair, re finish and reupholster furniture. . Hauoh & Keenak, 33 Water st wau 1 -It ' THE, GOWNS FOR OLD AGE. Beauty of .Texture Must Replace Beauty of Youth Fashion Plates to Be Discarded Simplicity Does Not Mean Ugliness Borne Charming Designs. IWRITTXN FOB THI DISPATCH.! The pattern books do' not say how grand ma should dress The field is, therefore, open to exploit individual opinion, Per haps their neglect signifies that fashion has released her from obligation. If so, happy grandma ! There is compensation in being old. The ideal aged lady, to my thinking, should rejoice in her freedom and wear beautiful things only. .Because-the beauty of youth was gone she should devote her self to the wonderful resources that dress has for beauty, which the requiremen ts of fashion do not permit other people to use. Youth's attractions are riot the only ones With all the distilled knowledge of a life time, my lady should develop the graces of texture the beauty of satin folds, with the sheen of their highlights and the mystery ot their shadows, and should press to her service the rich magnificence of brocade. She should wear the precious gems of the family, not vulgarly, as most people wear gems, but legitimately, when jewels are needed for fastenings, and because they record sentiments dearer to her than to those'younger of the family. But if there were no gems or no purse to buy richness, at least the cheap fabrics may be. made beantiful by the laws of art for form. 'Color on the old should grow' subdued, and take The Waist Should Be Eoomv- on a soft blending like that in ancient tapestry. However, it is nonsense to talk about color, and since we none of us under stand it, we are wise to tone down the dress of age into gray and black. Beauty of dress should take the place or lost physical beauty. But what kind of dress Not fashionable'dress not at all the latest cut in biases and the newest frip peries on a woman who Is old are glaring in congruities Why? Because they are arti ficial and speak ot vain ends of the emula tion of other people in inconsequential things The old, if she is to continue inter esting, must have dignity, serenity and mental charms the result of knowledge. I agree that the dress should be simple, but true simplicitv does not mean ugliness and meagerness It means a unity and harmony of parts whose result is beauty. All old women do not narrow their world to the fireside and leave their grandchildren to select their gowns Many keep up to the end active social intercourse, choose their mmMma Wmm WW: m THE HOUSEKEEPER'S CORNER. $ .yCrmr"mZi$' la J I The corners of a room are always a problem, but a housekeeper's corner will gire a comfortable, home-like look to the common living room, and at the same time the real rest and convenience, it will prove to the housekeeper, is not to be estimated by anyone except the woman who, though virtually at the head of a complicated business, has no conveniences for carrying on that very essential part the housekeeping department Too often her bills, receipts and account books are stowed away in various receptacles all over the house because there is no one place where she can keep them altogether. The "housekeeper's corner". requires but little space and 'is easily constructed. In the first place there is a three-cornered table made, at a slight cost by a carpenter, of plain deal; it can then be stained and varnished at home. The table is covered on top with dark red enamel cloth, which is tacked ddwn over the edges with rather small car pet tacks, except across the front, where brass headed tacks are used. There is a drawer with lock and key; and the screwing on of the pretty handles of the drawer, which are bought at the hardware store, is part of the homework. . A small, three-cornered inexpensive set' of bric-a-brac shelves which can be tuade or bought, is set upon the table, fitting closely back against the wall. , A slender brass rod is fastened. across the edge' of the second shelf upon which is hung, with small brass rings the little silk curtain which conceals the lower shelf. Within this curtain recess is kept, writing pads of various1 sizes, with envelopes to. match, for orders, business notes, etc.; also a mucilage bottle and a paper of pins The second shelf holds order and account books, and the third various cook books Penn, ink, blotting paper and a spike for holding bills are a necessary part of the table furniture, while a good-sized, generous waste-paper basket is kept underneath. own dress and occasionally dress well. A charming illustrative picture appeared on Fifth avenue the other day. It was Mrs Dr."Marcy getting out of her carriage to make a social calk Mrs. Marcy was once a great belle. That was 60 years ago. She was 80 when she stepped from her carnage last week, and this is what she wore. A bonnet ot black lace that fell round her face in a ruffle and was caught and fastened on top With a knotting of velvet strands of sev eral colors mingled subtly with Parisian skill; and a scarlet cloak that fell to her feet All old women are not passe. Perhaps the old ladies are themselves re sponsible for the gored skirt and fitted basque. But these are a mistake. These The Sleeveless Jacket. forms, so trying on a perfect young form, on the old merely show off defects. An old ladv's dress should not, by copying the young, provoka invidious contrasts Ah, you say, but she wants to make believe she lsyoupg. But how much better it would be to be beautifully old than artificially young. Drop the idea of youth, Madam, and culti vate the one of beauty. Biases are for the purpose of narrowing the waist below the bust, but if the bnst is gone, and the abdomen grown large they are an absurbity, and if such waist is tight and short it only exaggerates these defects The waist should not decrease, but grow larger as it decends, and it should be long enough to reach the widest part of the pro file. This wijl allow the skirt to fall straight, whereas, with the other waist, the skirt desribes a curve and falls in at the eet. The whole di ess should have amplitude, full waist, fnll sleeves The sleeves by falling in wrinkled or twisted folds will add the flexibility and grace lost by the arms The drooping shoulders should have high sleeve borders, and the neck lace boas A dress illustrating this idea is of a light weight soft silk, with a brocaded leaf, and trimmed at neck, sleeves and shoulders with fringed silk ruchings The waist and skirt are plaited and sewed together, and a soft cord is knotted around the waist and holds up a handkerchief bag. The dressmaker would call this gown rank heresy, and perhaps the old lady who wore tight staysn her youth will agree with her. She says that the proper dress is a long pointed basque and a good skirt demi trained. It should'be high in the neck and long on the hands, and should have a large and convenient pocket The princesse, she says, is a good model, and also the Louise Quinze jacket A princesse folded over in surplice fash ion for a slender woman is of soft, wavy crepon, with sleeves, neck and petticoat of velvet One of the illustrations shows a rich cape of lace and verVet, with yoke of passementerie. -For shoulder wrappings white Canton crape shawls at (5, and col ored Chuddah ones are (2 and $3. Half length canes cathered at the neck, with f deep shoulder collar, and tied withribbons or cord, are charming. Another illustra tion shows a velvet sleeveless jacket, the yery essence of simplicity and beauty. Ada Bache-Cccne. fe5 t j feA.fi m hid nun in uiiQcp o. uiuiiimg m The poisonous flavoring extracts in the' market are one of the wolves in sheep's clothing which ruin-the stomach, .causing dyspepsia and Hood diseases before the consumers have discovered their true' character. The only safety the public has is to buy only such goods as are well known to be of' the finest 'grade. and purest quality. Dr. Price's Delicious Flavoring Extracts are just what they purport to be, containing no poisonous oils or ethers which are used in mak ing the cheap extracts. Dr. Price's Vanilla, Lem on, Orange, etc., are made from the true fruit. THE LADY AND THE HORSE. Points ot the Animal Bast Bolted for Equestriennes Gaits He Mnst Have The Saddle and the Cottume The Whip and the Bpnr. " Iwsittex roa tre dispatch.! When I was a boy at school in Berlin, I accompanied one of my schoolmates to his home in Silesia, My friend's grandmother, a fine old lady of 70, told me that when she was young late in the last century she rode astride and not a sidesaddle; and shdwed me a charming painting of herself on horseback. I remember only the pretty flowing lines of her costume. Whether it was a divided skirt or loose trousers she wore I cannot say. But the whole dress was graceful and modest, as the lady's seat was unqnestionably more safe and comforta- CORRECT TJT EVERY rAETICTTLAlL ble. This was long after the era of the side saddle, but the country districts of Silesia were so far away from the capitals that the fads of the dav did not really overturn an cient customs There is no question that a woman would ride in a well made Somerset saddle to bet ter advantage than on a sidesaddle. There is also no question that she will continue to ride on the sidesaddle for yet a long period. It is difficult to get so settled a habit as the sidesaddle changed. There is a certain limit to the ambitious strides, of women toward the manly in their sports and exer cise, which even this age of innovation will not overstep. A Woman Depends on Girths So far as a woman's seat on a sidcaddle with a third pommel is concerned, it is as safe as a man's, a lon as her girths hold her saddle in place and her horse does not come down. When her saddle turn oi"her horse falls, it is much more awkward than for a man. A woman always rides the saddle and not the horse. Her dependence is exclusively on girths A man cm ride a clean, easy jumper over a respectable ob stacle with girths broken. It is much more important to have a perfect horse for a woman thau for a man. A man may risk a dangerous brute if he will; not so a woman. A lady's horse should not exceed 15 bands The tall horses ridden by many women are not appropriate; nor are the raits of a taller horse as good. The hunter is not referred to. If a lady wishes to ride' to hounds, or to look like riding to cover every time she goes into the parK; she may mount as rangy a steed as she likes But if she desires to do her road riding on a horse fit to be called a park hack, and for comfort, not show, she will find safety, ease and pleasure nine times out of ten in a horse under 15 two rather than over. Very few taller horses have the quick, springy gait essential to the perfect hack.'thpiigh they may gallop and jump to perfection." The lady's horse must have irreproachable man ners Some women like to look as if they were riding a horse difficult to manage, so that all may wouder at their skill, but this is the worst of bad form. However spirited a lady's' horse may be, he must be tractable and must appear as well as be absolutely under control under all conditions If an accident to saddle or bridle happens, lie must stand in his tracks at the word. A Good Walker Is Desiraol. There must not only be ease but variety of gait A never varying trot may look horsey, but a beast with only one gait is not a saddle horse. A good walk, trot and canter may suffice, but they "alone are not perfection. The walk is the most important of all gaits, because it is the gait one rides the most Only people who rarely ride go "galloperavering over the road. The walk ing gait should be quick, springy and at least four- miles an hour. A horse that walks two may do for a buggy, but he is no saddle horse. This fact is well understood by "the Southerners, whose walkers are astonishing in their rapidity, both in the square and the running walk. Next to the walk comes the trot Ou our hard city roads it is the gait which best saves the horses' legs and feet. A lady's nag must trot so easily as barely to raise her from the saddle. To see a man putting six inches between himself and the saddle at each rise is bad enough; in an equestrienne it Is unpardonable. A woman should never mount so rough-gaited a beast The fet locks should be slanting so as to give well at each hoof beat, and the step must not be too longi The lady's hack must take the canter readily on the slightest intimation, and with either shoulder leading; must be able to vary his speed between a ten-mile gait and one no faster than a walk; must not look like a rockinz horse, though he mnst be as easy; and mast canter well-gathered and j handily. Added to these gaits there should j be a quick response to the rein and leg, so j that he may be guided with ease. It mat ters little whether a lady habitually rides ' with two hands or one; her brack must guide by the neck or bit at will. Tho Highly Accomplished Hore. With the above qualities you have a clever lady's hack; but you by no means have an accomplished one. To call your nag accomplished he mu3t have at least one more gait, as well as a finer education. The gallop is not a gait for the road. The most I available other gait is a running walk or rack. When the roads are muddy and one does not want a splashing the trot and can ter will not avail you, and a walk, evpn if lively, does not suffice. If you and your companion have "a couple of good rackers they will get over the ground at six miles an hour without mud and with an ease of which the owner of ahorse which only trots has never conceived. To these gaits add a few-accomplishments, snch as change of stride in the canter, the shifting of croup and forehand at will, the immediate change from any one to any other gait at call, and you. have a nag worth riding. Nor is this paragon unattainable. So soon as the rider knows as much as such a horse does, there are plenty to be had at no ex travagant price. Whit makes so many poor saddle B-asts is the fact that most peo ple ride an unvarying trot. A horse has no chance to learn, and if he has been well taught he is soon spoiled. The Costnmo for Ttld'n. A lady's dress h very important Union. undersarments and bicycle tih's will save much chafing. A leg boot, or better, a well laced, very high boot is convenient. The skirt mnst be perfect in cut. The short habit of to-day is not graceful, but very sensible, and it must hook up so as to be out ot the way in walking. The body must be plain atftl fit well. A small collar, tan gloves and a Derby hat complete the costume, or a tall hat tor a good rider. The hair must be fited so that it cannot coma down. The less noticeable the woman's dress, the more perfect. The sidesaddle should be specially fitted to the horse. No crupper or breast-plate should be needed. The girths should bo wide and the saddle should be put on a half hour before the ride begins so as to have the girths tightened at the last moment, and should be left on alter the ride, with girths loosened, to let the heated skin dry slowly under it The flatter the saddle the better; the third pommel or leaping-horn is essen tial to safety, and it should be adjustable. A buckskin saddle lends more "glue" to the lady's seat; but pigskin is handsomer and rain does not affect it The closer the saddle to the horse the better. The modern French tree is admirable. The bridletshould be plain; the bits such as best suit the horse's mouth. A horse that needs a martinzale is usually not suited for a woman's hack; but there are exceptions A whip is preferable to a crop. A spur may be used by an expert equestrienne: but it needs experience to use it to any advan tage, and a good lady's hack will mind the heel as well as the spur. T. A. DODQE, Colonel U. S. A. FINE WALL PAPERS miWe & Gos, 541 WOOD STREET 541 BANK O COMMEBCE BOTXDrKt. Telephone 13Jt fefTXMx , r. ; if iMtiSUm$ a-'frhlti-i"H'Vr-Vt rtflW"- && I ' T '
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers