, . THE PITTSBURG DISPATCH. SUNDAY, .MARCH 27, 1892L 13 -, 1
.. - i ..- - . i ' - ' - j3
TWENTYENTS EACH
An Allegheny Woman "Who
Kept Her Family of Five
for a Dollar a Day.
HER FIGURES FOR IT.
Bills of Fare and What They Cost
During Last September.
A BIG B001I FOR MATRIMONY.
Ko Young- Man Should Hesitate After Bead
ing !his Record.
IDWARD ATXIXSON OX TIGITABLES
t witiTTrs roK the Disr wcn.i
Apropos of the article in The Dispatch
a lew weeks ago from Edward Atkinson,
on the cost of living in Boston, I thought
my experience of the cost of living in Alle
gheny might be ol benefit to others who are
not blessed with large incomes. I had been
fortunate all my life in hiving plenty. I
never had to economize in my table ex
penses, until a short time since, when we
lctalland were reduced to a 'very small
income. I have been obliged to keep the
table expenses with a dollar a day, for a
family ot five, consisting of two males and
three females. Three are blessed with good
appetites, two are rather dainty. I keep no
servant, therelore do my own cooking.
I put up fruit in the summer, keeping an
recount of the cost of it. The cost of all I
divided by the number of pints I canned,
making each pint cost 7 cents. "Whenever
I open a can, I add the cost of it to the
monthly expenses.
The Fare for a Month.
Below I give the bill of fare for the
month of September, 1891; after that will
give the cost and quantity ot provisions
bought for that month. I vi ill also note all
guests entertained during the month and
the absence of any of the lamily. It is to
be understood we have sugar, cream and
butter each meal: also home-mads light
bread. I buy enough milk each day to get
all the cream we need.
L Ki-cuUlabt (at tins timo one of the fam
llv is absent, leaving but four in lamily),
hot lmcuit, tomato preserves, coffee; lunoh,
cold bl-cuit, boiled ham, cherry pie: dinner,
tried ham, stened con., tried potatoes, hot
roll-, pcicli cobbler, tea.
2. UrcaLlabt, warmed rolls, preserves, cof
fee milk: lunch, chip beef, li.;ht bread, cold
peach cobbler; dinnei, port chops, stewed
corn, filed potatoes, sliced cucumbers, cake
preserves with cream, tea.
3 Breakfast, cornmeal cakes syrup, pre
serves, cake, coffee, milk; lunch, cold filed
ham chip beef, cake; dinner, fried ham,
sweet potatoes, sliced tomatoes, cucumbers,
pickles, tomato preserve-, tea-
4 Breaklast, corn cakes svrnp, coffee
cake, cotlee: lunch, cold ham, "bread, coffee
cake, dinner, boiled ham, corn on ear, boiled
potatoes, sliced tomatoes and cucumbcis,
eireaica-e, pickles hot rolls, tea.
5 Brc.il.ast, corn cakes, syrup, cold boiled
ham, coffee: lunch, bread, boiled ham, coffee
cake: dinner, tried beetstcak with srravy,
boiled potatoes corn on tar, sliced tomatoes,
pieties, tea.
f Breaklast, corn cakes syrup, coffee;
lunch, bread, peaches and cream; dinner,
boiled eggs, hot biscuit, pickles, cup cake,
peaches and cream, ten.
The sixth was Sunday. That night the
absent meiubci returned, bringing a visitor,
making the Janiily six in number.
Tor a Iamily or Six
7Bi eakfast, batter cakes, syrup, tomato
preseive-, peaches, coflee: lunch, Hied epgs,
cold biscuit, peach pie, preserves, cup cake,
tea, dinner, boiled beef w ith dumplings and
Ti-avj, boiled potatoes, butter beans with,
corn, hot bicuit, cun cake. tea.
8. Breakfast, hot biscuit, s rup, fried eggs,
peach pre-erves, coffee, milk; lunch, cold
biscuit, cold sliced beef, peach pie, cupcake,
tea; dinnei, tried veal cutlets with gravy,
cold butter beans with corn, cucumbers and
tomatoes, sn eet potatoes, fried potatoes, hot
rolls, peach preserves with cream, tea.
9. Breaklast, corn and flour cakes syrup,
preserves, coffee, milk: lunch, eggs, cup
cake, preserves, tea; dinner, boiled beef
with graxj, stewed corn, sweet potatoes,
nresenes with cieam, tea.
lu Breaklast, eggs, hot rolls, cold sliced
beef, coffee lunch, cold beef, cold rolls, pre
terves, tea: dinnei, boiled bacon and cab
bage, cold bcel, cold rolls, corn bread, pota
toes, tea.
11. Breakfast, corn ana flour cakes, syrup,
cold beef, coflee, milk; lunch (two guests
foi lunch), tried chicken, mashed potatoes,
urect potatoes, sliced tomatoes, pickles,
smearcase, peaches and cream, angel cake,
coffee, dinner, cold chicken, hash, mashed
potatoes, sweet potatoes, sliced tomatoes,
corn bread, Dickies, smearcase, peaches and
cream, anccl cake, tea.
12 Breaktat, corn cakes, syrup, fried
bacon, pieserves pickles, coffee; lunch, cold
bacon, prcserx e, pickles tea: dinner, boiled
eggs, stewed corn, sweet potatoes, boiled
Irish potatoescucumbers. pickles, preserves,
angel cake, tea.
The Sunday ISUI or Fare.
13. Sunday, breakfast, fried bacon, hot bis
cuit, syrup, coffee; dinner, broiled steak,
fried bacon, cold biscuit, corn on ear, boiled
potatoes, cucumbers, pickles, apple pie. Jelly
cake, tea.
11 Breakfast, hot biscuits, eggs, preserves,
coffee, lunch, cold biscuit, apple jelly, apple
pie, angel and jelly cake, tea; dinnei, boiled
ggs, sw cet potatoes, corn, cucumbers, filed
potatoes, hot biscuit, apple jelly. Jelly cake,
tea.
15 Breakfast, batter cakes, coffee cake,
tvrup, peach marmalade, apple Jelly, coffee;
lunch, cold biscuit, bacon, jelly, coffee cake,
tea: dinner, broiled steak, tried bacon, hot
rolls, sw eet potatoes, boiled potatoes, pickles,
ctewed pears, apple jelly, tea,
16. Bi eakta-t, coffee cake, syrup, marma
lade, coffee, milk; lunch, coffee cake, pre
serves, pears, tea; dinner, broiled ham,
stewed pears. Jelly, pickles, apple pie, tea.
17. Breakfast, hot biscuit, corn calces,
Bvrup. coflee cake, jelly, coffee; lunch, cold
bi-tmt, coffee cake, jelly, stewed pears, tea;
dinnei, tiled ham, boiled potatoes, boiled
onions, pickles, jellj, apple sauce, stewed
pears, apple and crcain pie, tea.
IS Breaklast, steamed bread, apple sauce,
pears coffee, milk; lunch, cold tried ham,
Itrapes and peaches, chocolate cake, coffee:
dinner (three guests for dinner), smothered
chickens, mai'ied potatoes, stewed corn,
sliced tomatoes apple sauce, chocolate cake,
peaches and grapes, coffee.
10. Break'ast, hot biscuit, syrup, apple
sauce, coffee; luncn, cold boiled ham. eggs,
cold biscuit, apple pie, chocolate cake,
grapes and peaches, tea; dinner, fried oys
ters, hot rolls, baked corn, mashed potatoes,
cake, fi ult, apple butter, cider, tea.
20, Sunda, breakfast, corn cakes, syrup,
apple butter, chocolate cake, pears, coffee:
Dinner, broiled ham, mashed potatoes, cola
baked corn, sliced tomatoes, apple butter,
pickles, grape and apple pie, cake, crapes,
cnocolate, cider.
21. Breaklast, not rolls, apple butter. Jelly,
coffee; lunch, eggs, applo butter, tea; dinner,
filed ham and bacon, scrambled eggs, baked
potatoes, sliced tomatoes, apple butter,
grape pie, tea.
Down to riva A rain.
12. Breakfast, corn and flour cakes, syrup,
coffee; lunch, eggs, bacon, grape pie, tea;
(our guest who came the 7th left the 22d);
dinner, fried steaS with gravy, hot biscuit,
tweet potatoes, apple jeily, sliced tomatoes,
2& Breakfast, hot rolls, syrnp, Jelly, coffee:
lunch, cold steak, cold rolls hard boiled
e-ss doughnuts: dinner, iried flank steak
w"ith gravy. Jr.ed tomatoes, boiled potatoes,
apnle "auce, doughnuts, tea.
24 Breaklast. iried ham, applo sauce,
doughnuts, coffee; lunch, cold ham, apple
sauce, doughnuts, pears; dinner, Iried ham,
baked potatoes, sliced tomatoes.applo sauce,
dou 'lmuts, tea.
25 Breakfast, fried steak with frravy, corn
cakes, syrup, coffee: lunch, cold beet steak,
cold egg", apple sauce, doughnuts; dinner,
fri'd ovoters. crackers, white beans, sliced
tomatoes, apple sauce, doughnuts, tea.
2G. Ill eakfast. not rolls, sjrup, npple Jelly,
coffee: lunch, cold ham, apple sauce, pears,
dou-hniits dinner, Ii led ham, boiled pota
toes? cucumbeis, apple Jelly, pear preserves,
tea
27. Sunday, bi eakfast, ham, eggs, fried
potatoes, pear preserves, coffee: dinner,
Ined ham, sweet potatoes, boi'ed Irish pota
toes, sliced cucumbers, tomato preserves,
tea, milk. ... .
28. Breakfast, hot biscuit, syrup, tomato
preserves, coflee; lunch, ham, hard-boiled
eggs, tomato preserves: dinner, scrambled
eggs hot rolls, boiled potatoes, pickles
cream pie, tea.
29. Breakfast, corn cakes syrup, cherry
preserves, coflee; lunch, bread, cherry pre
serves, cream pie; dinner, fried bacon and
eggs boiled potatoes head cheese, cucum
bers cream pie, tea.
SO. Breakfast, bread, sausage, coffee;
lunch, cold sausage, tomnto preserves, cust
ard pie; dinner, beef soup, crackers boiled
beet, boiled potatoes, crapes, tea.
Where the Money Went.
Below is the provision bought for Sep
tember and the cost of it:
1 Milk tickets, 50; 1 pound butter, SO;
2 pounds meat, 30; corn, 12 $ 1
2 Oorn, 18: J peck potatoes, 10; cucum
bers, 3; peaches, 15
8 1 pounds meat, 23; 1 ruir, 10: 1 pound
meat, 20; 2 pounds lard, 20 73
4 Sweet potatoes, 10: 2 pounds meat,
25: sugar, 25; smearcase, 10 70
6-Cucumbers, 5; pound tea. 20: 2J
pounds butter, 73; vegetables, 55.. 1 53
6 IK pounds meat, 23 23
7 Me it, 20; 3 pounds lard, 35: eggs,
18
8 reaches, SO; sugar, 25: vegetables
and meat, S3; milk, 50 1 S3
9 Butter, 7i: vegetables, 22: jeast, 2;
coffee, 35, cgs. 9 1 3
10 Meal. 20; 3 pounds meat. 45; eggs, 18:
chicken, 50; peaches, 20 1 63
11 Vanilla, 20; bacon, C7: ' rolls, fi:
smearcase, 10; butter, 31 93
12 Eggs, 9; meat, 30; vesetablcs 29;
sugai, 25; butter, $1 33; milk, 50 .. 2 78
li Eggs, 18; vegetables 05; pears, 10;
apples. 8; meat, 81 "1 72
16 Sugar, 50: eggs, IS; ltoyal baking
ponder, 23: pepner, 10 1 03
17 2'i pounds lard, 23; j east, 2; ham, 40,
Coin, 25; egss, 9 96
18 Tomatoes, 5, peaches, 15: J pound
tea, 26; salt, 5: grapes, 35 80
19 Chickens $1 25; eggs 20; yeast, 2;
milk, 5J: cider, 25 2 22
20 Apple buttei, 15: butter, 32; oysters,
23; eggs, 40; coffee, 35 147
22 Flour, $1 05; peck potatoes, 20; sweet
potatoes, 25; butter, 33. 2 43
23 Tomatoes, 4: Apples, 10; eggs, 10;
steak, 25: rolls, 5: sugar, 25 79
245 pounds lard, 50; ham, 30; butter,
30: 'sugir, 25; beans, 10 1 45
25 Steak, 25; yeast, 2; oysters, 25; ou-
cumbers, 3: smearcase, 10 61
26 Butter. 90. meat, 36; soda, 10; crack
ers. 10. esrgs, 20; v east, 2 1 78
27 Egs, 40. bacon, 35, 5 pounds laid,
50. meat, 19. svrup, 25; sausage, 15. . 1 84
30 Eggs, 20, head cheese, 15 33
Total for month S31 16
The expenses were 51 16 over the allow-
ance of $1 per day, which was caused by
the guests that were entertained.
ECONOMY.
THE VEGETARIAN DIET.
It Is More Expensive Than the Meat Diet
Best Way to Trepare Vegetables Sur
prises Caused by Retaining the Flaws
Beans and Peas.
tWEITTEX FOB TIIE DISrATCU.
The cost of a strictly vegetable diet,
which would include butter, milk and eggs,
would be greater in this country than the
cost of an ordinary diet including meat.
How far this may be changed by the intro
duction of cooked cheese in connection with
a vegetarian diet one cannot yet state, and
it is not my purpose to deal with this ques
tion, but rather to treat of the preparation
of grain, roots and other vegetables which
enter into the customary supply of food.
Grains like oatmeal, cornmeal and cracked
wheat, which are eaten in the shape of
mush or porridge, may be dealt with in
either one of two ways: First, by long ap
plication of heat below the boiling point.
"When treated in this way the fine flavors of
each specific grain are retained, and the
cooked product is in very digestible condi
tion, unless it is hastily swallowed.
Starchy foods should be eaten slowly.
If swallowed rapidly or bolted in
the customary way they may not
prove to be as digestible or nu
tritious as one had a right to expect
Oatmeal Over a Quick fire.
Oatmeal may be cooked over a quick fire
in onlv water enough to swell the grain.
Bice may also he cooked very quickly in
boiling water for a short time; the propor
tion of water should be so great as to give
each grain room to swell separately. In
dealing with the grains it is a matter of taste
or convenience which plan of cooking is em
ployed, but the cooking must be thqrough.
The roots containing cellulose, especially
potatoes, customarily require a higher de
gree of heat than either meat or grain in
order to bake them thoroughly. The scien
tific writers upon cookery give preference
to baked potatoes over boiled on account of
the retention of the mineral salts which
are dissolved in water. In boiling potatoes
should be subjected to a quick heat
so as to rupture or break the
starch cells without giving time to
change the stareh into dextrine. Carrots,
beets and parsnips may rightly be boiled,
even though the process deprives them of
their very decided flavor. They have so
much flavor that they mav even be im
proved in the process of boiling, as the
Norwegians who live continually upon sal
mon boil it in order to deprive it of a part
of its flavor, so that it may remain perfect
ly palatable; otherwise it cloys
Boiling Inside the Oven.
Boiling can be more conveniently and
readily accomplished on a kerosene oil or
gas stove than in any other kind of oven.
But beets, carrots and parsnips, as well as
other roots may be cooked in the oven for a
long time very slowly in closed vessels, sub
jected to the same degree of heat that is re
quired in roasting meat from 300 to 350 de
grees Fahrenheit. Green vegetables peas,
beans and the like, are very deliriously
cooked in th's way. They retain a very
much finer flavor thau when subjected to
the customary heat ot the iron stove in an
open vessel or when boiled. When
the heat is properly regulated all
kinds of fruit and vegetables may
be cooked in the oven, in vegetable dishes
china, porcelain or stoneware open or cov
ered. The watery kinds require very little
water. The drier kinds may have a little
water added. The steam generated at the
higher heat to w hick the outside of the ves
sel is subjected raises the temperature with
in the covered vessel only to about the boil
ing point; and while the vessel may not be
steam tight lest it burst, yet it may be suf
ficiently tight to retain the aromatic oils
which should not be carried offj thus assur
ing the full .flavor, whatever it may be.
One lady, who had thus cooked them in
the oven, inlormed me that she had then
"for the first time tasted many kinds of
vegetable which she had been eating all her
lite." In the rice-fed nations very large
quantities ot leguminous plants o: the pea
and bean order are consumed with the rice;
tbey furnish nitrogen, in which rice is de
ficient. Full nutrition and strength could
not be, attained on a diet consisting wholly
of rice. Bice is almost wholly starch.
How Chinamen Get Nitrogen.
The Chinese not only produce but con
sume large quantities of beans, and bean oil
is the principle oil of China. The bean
meal leit alter the oil is expressed is used
to feed the stock and also as a fertilizer.
The cotton seed meal of our own country is
also put to the same use. The Chinese have
fertilized their sugar grounds with bean
meal tor centuries, our sugar planters are
only just beginning to learn to use their
cotton seed Jor the same purpose. The
Chinese also eat chickens, the eggs of ducks
and many other foods which furnish nitro
gen, using rice as we use bread and potatoes
Very little attention is given in the
Northern United States to dried peas and
beans except in getting up the noted Sew
England dainty, baked beans Dried split
peas, or whole'peas, should be cooked at a
moderate heat for a very longtime. In the
New England kitchen pea 'soup is made
which possesses au entirely different flavor
from the ordinary pea soup. The soup is
being subjected to the heat of a lamp all
night; in the morning It is strained and
dealt with according to regular recipes
The straining is essential in order to remove
a considerable amount of cellulose or woody
fibre which is separated by the long process
of cooking; this being removed, leaves the
soup in a much more nutritious and digesti
ble condition.
Uses of l'eai and Beans. '
There appears to be less knowledge in
this county than anywhere else of the right
use of rice and the leguminous plants of the
THE TABLE. TIE
pea and bean varieties Bice constitutes
the starchy element of food among a greater
number of people than derive their subsist
ence from other grains There are more
than 300 varieties ot rice. Some ot them re
quire no irrigation and contain more nitro
gen than the swamp or Carolina rice to
which We are accustomed. There is a var
iety of -rice growing upon the Himalaya
Mountains which sprouts in the spring
through the snow, and there is mountain
rice in Japan which matures in a very cold
climate.
The reason assigned by the English com
mission tor not expecting any larger sup
ply of wheat lrom India is, ttiat the land
within reach of railways or waterways
that can be spared from rice and pulse is
so limited that it " forbids any further ex-
.:., nf nh..t AnltivallATt The TllllseS-
or pea. and bean crops, occupy a larger
number ot varieties of bush-beans and
peas, and of trailing plants xaryine in the
proportion of nitrogen, and in other re
spects. They are cultivated in the hot lands,
Certain bushy beans are grown as a food
planted around the field for its protection,
sometimes in alternate rows Of these varie
ties of bean and pea there appears to be
very little knowledge in this country.
Much greater attention might also be given
to the consumption of cheese in this country.
It may take the place of meat of which we
are wasteful in a greater or less measure.
Skim-milk cheese properly cooked with the
addition ot a little bicarbonate of soda may
be made into the most appetizing and very
digestible compounds
Edwaed Atktnsos'.
A DIHHEB TO & DIPLOMAT,
To Which Senators Furnished the Choicest
Their States Afford.
rwirmxx fob the Etsr.TCB.t
A. little dinner was to be given at Cham
berlain's one winter's day, in "Washington,
in honor of a young diplomat who had been
at the Capital but a short .time.
"It must be a fine affair," said the Senator
from Kentucky. "I've a notion to furnish
a Kentucky 'south-down mutton myself 1"
"Suppose we ask Vest to send some of
his favorite sausage," proposed another.
"Kentucky- sausage, too! 'Well!" laughed
Senator Jones, of Nevada, who is one of
the epicures, "Blackburn's Kentucky
spareribs, and Beck's mutton, and Vest's
sausage; it might be called a Kentucky set
out!" The dinner came off in due course of time.
In their dress suits the gentlemen took their
seats at the table. Flowers were plentiful
in "handsome vases and bowls ' Ferns and
mosses grew out of a rocky cave of glitter
ing ice in the center of the well-laid table.
Scarlet lobsters and pale, pink shrimps re
posed in curly lettuce and pounded ice.
Lynn Haven ovsters came on, roasted in
their shells Chespeake Bay contributed
her most expensive delicacies, such as diamond-back
terrapin and canvas-back ducks
Virginia boasted of " her deviled crabs, and
the historic Potomac was wondrously repre
sented. The young diplomat was astonished at the
fabulous tales ot these gentlemen. "Our
state! Onr river! Our bay!" "What a
country this must be!
Meanwhile, he ate industriously, and
praised each new dish the most He be
came satisfied that he had reached the cen
ter of America, and that all the markets of
the world must be supplied from the rich
lands of Kentucky, Virginia and Maryland.
The dinner was drawing to a close. The
courses were served well and -everything
was delicious Champagne and wines were
getting low in the handsome glasses Con
serves glaces and bon-bons were brought
in. They lingered a little over their coflee.
"We've never before had a dinner at
Chamberlain's without a Mahone haml"
said one. "I, too, miss Billy Mahone and
his Virginia hams" said another, r-
"The" Mahone ham?" repeated a third
guest, a stranger, too, inquiringly.
"Why, General Billy Mahone lives In
Virginia, near Smithfield, where his won'
dertul pigs are raised and the hams cured.
Last winter you couldn't buy one for f50.
Only one grocer in Washington had 100 or
so for sale tor special dinners!"
'The modest diplomat ventured to Inter
rogate the Senator nearest him: "Why do
you think the animals so rare? So so
costly?"
The Senator replied: "Yon see, the hams
are very small and delicate; not large and
fat like coarst Western meat I. They are
cured with great care by old servants of the'
Mahones (used to be slaves and understand
their business), and "
"But," asked another guest, "why are
they better than any other pigs?"
"Peanuts, sir! peanuts! not allowed to
eat anything else, makes most delicious
meat!"
The diplomat wrote home of this dinner
to friends: "They give fine dinners in
Washington. They treat you like one
Prince. They eat everything out of the
waters near to the capital, and everything
on the land. All the small beasts at Mon
sieur Chamberlain's were dee-lee-cious!
One fine animal was forgotten by a
wealthy Senator. He was darned Peanuts
and lives in Virginia, near to the place
where King George sent people to
America."
ART IN WOMEN'S DRESS.
The Secret Is That the FIgara Mast Be
Draped The Ancient Greek Costumes
Designs From Great Painters A Tennis
Gown.
rwnmxN roa the dispatch-i
"But, my dear girl." said a well-known
artist the other day, "don't you understand
that I am not complaining because there
is fashion? Fashion is the search for nov
elty, for surprise, for relief from the ennui
of reiteration. Art, whether it be on can
vas, or in books, or in music, is doing the
same thing finding new effects It is the
essence ot art to manage this eIementof sur
prise. But art looks for new ways of tell-
Vatican Minerva.
ing the old story of beauty. Now, fashion
by which, of course, you will understand
that I mean fashion in the dress of women
kind seems most 'of the time to be think
ing not at all about beauty. Every essential
element of theJreek costuta could be
adopted in our dress There are abundant
opportunities In 'summer and' fall dresses,
Mm
Wm lull
BOUDOIR, HOME DECORATIONS . ID HYGIENE. . , . . J
In an evening dress you women have no ex
cuse for not adopting the Greek costume in
pleno.
"Let me remind you for a moment of the
Minerva of the "Vatican. Did you ever
study her costume? Such drapery! Could
not any modern woman with perfect pro-
Eriety wear a costume like that? It com
ines anoble simplicity with the .loveliest
decorative beauty, and with the. choice of
material placed at the hand of the modern
it might be made ravishing. I offer you
without cost a hint that "Worth would
charge you 5500 for steal the gown of the
. Julia Marlowe as Viola.
Minerva of the Vatican. Then there is the
Agrippini and other Roman figures? I
would not blame you for passing some of
the Italian designs of the sixteenth and
earlier centuries.
"When it comes to paintings you have a
multitude of suggestions Even the early
Italian painters, with their frequent reiter
ations, will teach many a good thing in
drapery, while you may actually go among
the Dutch painters for some exquisiteideals.
Then you have charming suggestions from
Watteau if you keep in mind that he yielded
a good deal to fashions and laced his figures
Take that 'Bust of a Girl,' by Watteau, in
the Louvre. The sleeve is a masterpiece of
drapery, and what a rebuke to the sleeve ot
your modern gowns, bunched at the
shoulder and murdering one of the most
beautiful lines in a woman's figure! Here
we come to that paramount principle you
see I am getting more didactic every min
ute thut clothes must drape the figure. If
I were writing that word I would put it in
capitals Clothing that does not drape, but
follows the form, is never artistic. It should
suggest and not model the figure. Women
wear waists that fit them like a glove and
then drop into drapery when It comes to the
skirt. They incase their arms until they
are miserable, interfering with the circula
tion and making their arms correspondingly
thin. Every line of a gown should suggest
the natural fall of the cloth.
"The same with gloves The 'sausage
look' has been advisedly used in speaking
of the fashionable woman's gloved hand.
The ugliness here is primarily the result of
From a Sketch by Kaemmerer.
the notion that a hand is.prettv because it
is small! Go to art, thou glove-wearer,
for a rebuke. Yes, the glove should drape
the hand. With the pressure they bear,
gloves should fit snugfy, buWhey should
not defer to a commendation that a small
foot is pretty. It a foot is small enough to
look weak it. is not beautiful. -And here
comes the main argument against a small
waist The waist is the zone of the body,
the point at which its strength and its drap
eries are bound up. A waist should look
strong. Does a sheaf of wheat look weak
vi here the binders hold it? Look at any
beautiful figure among the Greek and
Boman creations! A fashionable girl with
her small waist looks sometimes as if she
might drop in two.
"The artist, Kaemmerer, has made some
very clever drawings in the style of the em
pire gowns. These designs are exquisitely
simple, but so far as the waist is concerned
you may be sure they would be charged with
illustrating 'no shape.' The French are
prodigal in costumes A great many of
these, I must contess, are simply realistic
adaptations of fashionable ideas But a
great many of them are delightfully catchy.
Have you seen Julia Marlowe as Viola?
Why is it not a good out-doorcostume? You
could play tennis in it, and you could climb
mountains in it You would declare yon
had never been so comfortable before in all
your life. Do you know, I think that if you
would only let yourselves act on the inner
impulse you would be all right"
A HOUSEHOLD ASSISTANT
Prescribed by .Emma P. Ewlng Famous
'With AU Chautaoquans.
Emma P. Ewing sends The Dispatch
the following: An excellent allele is Lavelle
water for removing stains and grease and
for various other cleaning purposes It is
frequently .kept on sale by druggists, but it
can easily -be prepared in the household for
about a quarter of the price a druggist would
charge for it.
This is the way to make it: Dissolve a
pound of ordinary washing soda' in a gallon
of rain water and boil ten minutes; then add
a pound of chloride of lime and stir the mix
ture well. Let it settle; pour off, the clear
liquid, put it in a "jug or bo'ttle and cork
tightly till wanted. Add more water to the
settlings and use it for scrubbing floors, un
painted shelves, tables, etc It makes them
surprisingly white. I '
We pack, haul, ship, alter, repair, re
finish and reupholster furniture.
. Hauoh & Keenak, 33 Water st
wau
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THE, GOWNS FOR OLD AGE.
Beauty of .Texture Must Replace Beauty of
Youth Fashion Plates to Be Discarded
Simplicity Does Not Mean Ugliness
Borne Charming Designs.
IWRITTXN FOB THI DISPATCH.!
The pattern books do' not say how grand
ma should dress The field is, therefore,
open to exploit individual opinion, Per
haps their neglect signifies that fashion has
released her from obligation. If so, happy
grandma ! There is compensation in being
old.
The ideal aged lady, to my thinking,
should rejoice in her freedom and wear
beautiful things only. .Because-the beauty
of youth was gone she should devote her
self to the wonderful resources that dress
has for beauty, which the requiremen ts of
fashion do not permit other people to use.
Youth's attractions are riot the only ones
With all the distilled knowledge of a life
time, my lady should develop the graces of
texture the beauty of satin folds, with the
sheen of their highlights and the mystery
ot their shadows, and should press to her
service the rich magnificence of brocade.
She should wear the precious gems of the
family, not vulgarly, as most people wear
gems, but legitimately, when jewels are
needed for fastenings, and because they
record sentiments dearer to her than to
those'younger of the family. But if there
were no gems or no purse to buy richness,
at least the cheap fabrics may be. made
beantiful by the laws of art for form. 'Color
on the old should grow' subdued, and take
The Waist Should Be Eoomv-
on a soft blending like that in ancient
tapestry. However, it is nonsense to talk
about color, and since we none of us under
stand it, we are wise to tone down the dress
of age into gray and black.
Beauty of dress should take the place or
lost physical beauty. But what kind of
dress Not fashionable'dress not at all
the latest cut in biases and the newest frip
peries on a woman who Is old are glaring in
congruities Why? Because they are arti
ficial and speak ot vain ends of the emula
tion of other people in inconsequential
things The old, if she is to continue inter
esting, must have dignity, serenity and
mental charms the result of knowledge. I
agree that the dress should be simple, but
true simplicitv does not mean ugliness and
meagerness It means a unity and harmony
of parts whose result is beauty.
All old women do not narrow their world
to the fireside and leave their grandchildren
to select their gowns Many keep up to the
end active social intercourse, choose their
mmMma
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THE HOUSEKEEPER'S CORNER.
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The corners of a room are always a problem, but a housekeeper's corner will gire a
comfortable, home-like look to the common living room, and at the same time the real
rest and convenience, it will prove to the housekeeper, is not to be estimated by anyone
except the woman who, though virtually at the head of a complicated business, has no
conveniences for carrying on that very essential part the housekeeping department Too
often her bills, receipts and account books are stowed away in various receptacles all over
the house because there is no one place where she can keep them altogether.
The "housekeeper's corner". requires but little space and 'is easily constructed. In
the first place there is a three-cornered table made, at a slight cost by a carpenter, of
plain deal; it can then be stained and varnished at home. The table is covered on top
with dark red enamel cloth, which is tacked ddwn over the edges with rather small car
pet tacks, except across the front, where brass headed tacks are used. There is a drawer
with lock and key; and the screwing on of the pretty handles of the drawer, which are
bought at the hardware store, is part of the homework. .
A small, three-cornered inexpensive set' of bric-a-brac shelves which can be tuade or
bought, is set upon the table, fitting closely back against the wall. , A slender brass rod is
fastened. across the edge' of the second shelf upon which is hung, with small brass rings
the little silk curtain which conceals the lower shelf. Within this curtain recess is kept,
writing pads of various1 sizes, with envelopes to. match, for orders, business notes, etc.;
also a mucilage bottle and a paper of pins The second shelf holds order and account
books, and the third various cook books Penn, ink, blotting paper and a spike for holding
bills are a necessary part of the table furniture, while a good-sized, generous waste-paper
basket is kept underneath.
own dress and occasionally dress well. A
charming illustrative picture appeared on
Fifth avenue the other day. It was Mrs
Dr."Marcy getting out of her carriage to
make a social calk Mrs. Marcy was once a
great belle. That was 60 years ago. She
was 80 when she stepped from her carnage
last week, and this is what she wore. A
bonnet ot black lace that fell round her face
in a ruffle and was caught and fastened on
top With a knotting of velvet strands of sev
eral colors mingled subtly with Parisian
skill; and a scarlet cloak that fell to her
feet All old women are not passe.
Perhaps the old ladies are themselves re
sponsible for the gored skirt and fitted
basque. But these are a mistake. These
The Sleeveless Jacket.
forms, so trying on a perfect young form,
on the old merely show off defects. An old
ladv's dress should not, by copying the
young, provoka invidious contrasts Ah,
you say, but she wants to make believe she
lsyoupg. But how much better it would be
to be beautifully old than artificially young.
Drop the idea of youth, Madam, and culti
vate the one of beauty.
Biases are for the purpose of narrowing
the waist below the bust, but if the bnst
is gone, and the abdomen grown large they
are an absurbity, and if such waist is tight
and short it only exaggerates these defects
The waist should not decrease, but grow
larger as it decends, and it should be long
enough to reach the widest part of the pro
file. This wijl allow the skirt to fall
straight, whereas, with the other waist, the
skirt desribes a curve and falls in at the
eet.
The whole di ess should have amplitude,
full waist, fnll sleeves The sleeves by
falling in wrinkled or twisted folds will
add the flexibility and grace lost by the
arms The drooping shoulders should have
high sleeve borders, and the neck lace boas
A dress illustrating this idea is of a light
weight soft silk, with a brocaded leaf, and
trimmed at neck, sleeves and shoulders with
fringed silk ruchings The waist and skirt
are plaited and sewed together, and a soft
cord is knotted around the waist and holds
up a handkerchief bag.
The dressmaker would call this gown
rank heresy, and perhaps the old lady who
wore tight staysn her youth will agree
with her. She says that the proper dress is
a long pointed basque and a good skirt demi
trained. It should'be high in the neck and
long on the hands, and should have a large
and convenient pocket The princesse, she
says, is a good model, and also the Louise
Quinze jacket
A princesse folded over in surplice fash
ion for a slender woman is of soft, wavy
crepon, with sleeves, neck and petticoat of
velvet One of the illustrations shows a
rich cape of lace and verVet, with yoke of
passementerie. -For shoulder wrappings
white Canton crape shawls at (5, and col
ored Chuddah ones are (2 and $3. Half
length canes cathered at the neck, with
f deep shoulder collar, and tied withribbons
or cord, are charming. Another illustra
tion shows a velvet sleeveless jacket, the
yery essence of simplicity and beauty.
Ada Bache-Cccne.
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The poisonous flavoring extracts in the' market
are one of the wolves in sheep's clothing which
ruin-the stomach, .causing dyspepsia and Hood
diseases before the consumers have discovered
their true' character. The only safety the public
has is to buy only such goods as are well known
to be of' the finest 'grade. and purest quality.
Dr. Price's Delicious Flavoring Extracts
are just what they purport to be, containing no
poisonous oils or ethers which are used in mak
ing the cheap extracts. Dr. Price's Vanilla, Lem
on, Orange, etc., are made from the true fruit.
THE LADY AND THE HORSE.
Points ot the Animal Bast Bolted for
Equestriennes Gaits He Mnst Have
The Saddle and the Cottume The Whip
and the Bpnr. "
Iwsittex roa tre dispatch.!
When I was a boy at school in Berlin, I
accompanied one of my schoolmates to his
home in Silesia, My friend's grandmother,
a fine old lady of 70, told me that when she
was young late in the last century she
rode astride and not a sidesaddle; and
shdwed me a charming painting of herself
on horseback. I remember only the pretty
flowing lines of her costume. Whether it
was a divided skirt or loose trousers she
wore I cannot say. But the whole dress
was graceful and modest, as the lady's seat
was unqnestionably more safe and comforta-
CORRECT TJT EVERY rAETICTTLAlL
ble. This was long after the era of the side
saddle, but the country districts of Silesia
were so far away from the capitals that the
fads of the dav did not really overturn an
cient customs
There is no question that a woman would
ride in a well made Somerset saddle to bet
ter advantage than on a sidesaddle. There
is also no question that she will continue to
ride on the sidesaddle for yet a long period.
It is difficult to get so settled a habit as the
sidesaddle changed. There is a certain
limit to the ambitious strides, of women
toward the manly in their sports and exer
cise, which even this age of innovation will
not overstep.
A Woman Depends on Girths
So far as a woman's seat on a sidcaddle
with a third pommel is concerned, it is as
safe as a man's, a lon as her girths hold
her saddle in place and her horse does not
come down. When her saddle turn oi"her
horse falls, it is much more awkward than
for a man. A woman always rides the
saddle and not the horse. Her dependence
is exclusively on girths A man cm ride a
clean, easy jumper over a respectable ob
stacle with girths broken. It is much more
important to have a perfect horse for a
woman thau for a man. A man may risk a
dangerous brute if he will; not so a woman.
A lady's horse should not exceed 15
bands The tall horses ridden by many
women are not appropriate; nor are the
raits of a taller horse as good. The hunter
is not referred to. If a lady wishes to ride'
to hounds, or to look like riding to cover
every time she goes into the parK; she may
mount as rangy a steed as she likes But if
she desires to do her road riding on a horse
fit to be called a park hack, and for comfort,
not show, she will find safety, ease and
pleasure nine times out of ten in a horse
under 15 two rather than over. Very few
taller horses have the quick, springy gait
essential to the perfect hack.'thpiigh they
may gallop and jump to perfection." The
lady's horse must have irreproachable man
ners Some women like to look as if they
were riding a horse difficult to manage, so
that all may wouder at their skill, but this
is the worst of bad form. However spirited
a lady's' horse may be, he must be tractable
and must appear as well as be absolutely
under control under all conditions If an
accident to saddle or bridle happens, lie
must stand in his tracks at the word.
A Good Walker Is Desiraol.
There must not only be ease but variety
of gait A never varying trot may look
horsey, but a beast with only one gait is not
a saddle horse. A good walk, trot and
canter may suffice, but they "alone are not
perfection. The walk is the most important
of all gaits, because it is the gait one rides
the most Only people who rarely ride go
"galloperavering over the road. The walk
ing gait should be quick, springy and at
least four- miles an hour. A horse that
walks two may do for a buggy, but he is no
saddle horse. This fact is well understood
by "the Southerners, whose walkers are
astonishing in their rapidity, both in the
square and the running walk.
Next to the walk comes the trot Ou our
hard city roads it is the gait which best
saves the horses' legs and feet. A lady's
nag must trot so easily as barely to raise her
from the saddle. To see a man putting six
inches between himself and the saddle at
each rise is bad enough; in an equestrienne
it Is unpardonable. A woman should never
mount so rough-gaited a beast The fet
locks should be slanting so as to give well
at each hoof beat, and the step must not be
too longi
The lady's hack must take the canter
readily on the slightest intimation, and
with either shoulder leading; must be able
to vary his speed between a ten-mile gait
and one no faster than a walk; must not look
like a rockinz horse, though he mnst be as
easy; and mast canter well-gathered and j
handily. Added to these gaits there should j
be a quick response to the rein and leg, so j
that he may be guided with ease. It mat
ters little whether a lady habitually rides '
with two hands or one; her brack must guide
by the neck or bit at will.
Tho Highly Accomplished Hore.
With the above qualities you have a
clever lady's hack; but you by no means
have an accomplished one. To call your
nag accomplished he mu3t have at least one
more gait, as well as a finer education. The
gallop is not a gait for the road. The most I
available other gait is a running walk or
rack. When the roads are muddy and one
does not want a splashing the trot and can
ter will not avail you, and a walk, evpn if
lively, does not suffice. If you and your
companion have "a couple of good rackers
they will get over the ground at six miles
an hour without mud and with an ease of
which the owner of ahorse which only trots
has never conceived.
To these gaits add a few-accomplishments,
snch as change of stride in the canter, the
shifting of croup and forehand at will, the
immediate change from any one to any other
gait at call, and you. have a nag worth
riding.
Nor is this paragon unattainable. So soon
as the rider knows as much as such a horse
does, there are plenty to be had at no ex
travagant price. Whit makes so many
poor saddle B-asts is the fact that most peo
ple ride an unvarying trot. A horse has no
chance to learn, and if he has been well
taught he is soon spoiled.
The Costnmo for Ttld'n.
A lady's dress h very important Union.
undersarments and bicycle tih's will save
much chafing. A leg boot, or better, a well
laced, very high boot is convenient. The
skirt mnst be perfect in cut. The short
habit of to-day is not graceful, but very
sensible, and it must hook up so as to be
out ot the way in walking. The body must
be plain atftl fit well. A small collar, tan
gloves and a Derby hat complete the
costume, or a tall hat tor a good rider. The
hair must be fited so that it cannot coma
down. The less noticeable the woman's
dress, the more perfect.
The sidesaddle should be specially fitted
to the horse. No crupper or breast-plate
should be needed. The girths should bo
wide and the saddle should be put on a half
hour before the ride begins so as to have
the girths tightened at the last moment, and
should be left on alter the ride, with girths
loosened, to let the heated skin dry slowly
under it The flatter the saddle the better;
the third pommel or leaping-horn is essen
tial to safety, and it should be adjustable.
A buckskin saddle lends more "glue" to
the lady's seat; but pigskin is handsomer
and rain does not affect it The closer the
saddle to the horse the better.
The modern French tree is admirable.
The bridletshould be plain; the bits such as
best suit the horse's mouth. A horse that
needs a martinzale is usually not suited for
a woman's hack; but there are exceptions
A whip is preferable to a crop. A spur
may be used by an expert equestrienne: but
it needs experience to use it to any advan
tage, and a good lady's hack will mind the
heel as well as the spur.
T. A. DODQE,
Colonel U. S. A.
FINE WALL
PAPERS
miWe & Gos,
541 WOOD STREET 541
BANK O COMMEBCE BOTXDrKt.
Telephone 13Jt
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