&&&&&&&& J !&W r-7? THE REFORM ORESS, Ideas of the British Bational Society as Expounded by the Vis countess Haberton. SKIRTS CLEAKIKG THE GROUND ire ill Eight in Theory but in Prac ie a Woman Gets Just as Much Mud as With Trailers. ' JAPANESE AXD BTRIAU DESIGXS. Twt Pictures That Differ Frcm Faihion Plates in Being True to Stature. rcORrrs.ro vdenci op toe wsPATcn.i Loxdojt, Feb. 29. OWEYEB the world may view it dress will remain a subject of prime importance to every woman. At one time, some people when they first heard of the Rational Dress Society were apt to say they saw nothing in the present style of dress to call for alteration. But few who are in possession of sight and sense wonld be able to say this at present. There can be nothing more palpably loathsome than the fashion of trailing the skirt of the dress along the streets, into what the medi cal papers call sputa, and other objects equally disgusting. The women who are in the habit of doing this then go into houses and sit bv the fire, when the dried particles of all these horrors float freely about the room to be inhaled by everyone; and though people wipe their boots on cominginto a house, no woman makes any attempt at cleansing or disinfecting her dress. This is not 3 pleasant subject to write or read about, and hardly mentionable to ears polite, but if the mentioning it is unpleas ant what shall we think of the thousands who actually do it. DonnTVith Malce Aforethoneht And the length of the dress is no mere ac cident, for if a lady orders a "walking dress" from her dressmaker, it i now sent home with a good four inches of the skirt intended to trail on the ground, thus mak ing it impossible to doubt the intention of the fashion that the dress while walking should thus b seen. Some people make an attempt to hold up these skirts, but this has the no slight disadvantages of making the wearers appear to waddle instead of nal!-. of exhibiting various forms of under clothing not apparently intended to be seen bv the public, of being extremely fatiguing it kept up for long; and in the event of tbe hands being required for any other purpose the holding of the dress becomes an impossi bility. Soaie few people do not like to have their skirl, actually trailing in the dirt, so they instruct their dressmakers to make it 'Must clear the ground." The result which usually follows is that they have it about a couple of inches oft the ground in front, while at the bae'e it dips at every step and effectually sweeps into the dirt. Just Clearing the Ground. They never seem to realize that, owing to theinvariable custom of putting much fullness at the back of the dress, the weight ot the material soon causes the dress to fall there to the extent of some two inches, while the front remains as it was made. Therefore, it they really want their skirt to "clear" the ground they should have it made two inches shorter at the back than thev wish it actually to appear. This sort of length is undoubtedly the popular ideal of a short dress "just 'clear ins the ground." It is also about the ugliest form of skirt possible. It is too short for the "flowing drapery" ideal con sidered by those who hold the same relation to art that false prophets do to religion, as the only suitable attire for women. And it is too long for the beauty which is contained in suitability and harmony. It usually ap pears to pull round the ankles in walking, and obvious discomfort is inartistic; heels The Japanese Skirt. and skirts also actually plaster each other with mud quite as effectually as in a trail ing skirt. And a dress that seems not to touch the road on the level, trails steadily on it when going down the slightest hill, covering stockings and underclothing with du't should the weather be dry, when no one ever thinks it necessary to hold the dress up. ' Objections to the Short Dress. The only rule as to length of skirt which will avoid" these objections and prevent the heel scraping against it at every step, is to hare it mode the length of the wearer's foot and two inches more from the ground. But it is useless to endeavor to get women to wear really short dresses if theyaretobe irade on the old lines. There is" no possi bilitv of their ever keeping to any uniform length, as a few inches longer would so soon become the fashion. Also there can be no question that these sort of skirts are not verv decent, as if the wearer stoops iorward or goes up steps, or crosses the legs when sitting down, she cannot fail to exhibit un derclothing. And evenif.as is proposed bv those who advocate this form of skirt, knickerbockers to match are worn, the fact remains that all clothing supposed to be in visible, when casually exposed to view, gives the impression of indecency. Now the dresses in the accompanying illustration from designs of the National Dress Society are free from all these difficul ties. Both tbe figures are represented in ordinary morning or walking dress. ADh iston ot Apparent. The one wearing the longer jacket wears Mi ?UJrj7? ?? rv YFZU Ir? If a specimen of the "Japanese" skirt. It is of course made dual, i. e., two-legged, though neither in the drawing nor'in actual wear is the division apparent. This is due to the manner in which it is cut, and the arrangement of the folds, as there is no overskirt ot any sort. These skirts cannot well be worn longer than the one in the drawing about 12 inches off the ground. The name "Japanese" was given to this cos tume as the idea was first taken from part ot the dress worn by Japanese noblemen. A form of skirt very similar is also worn sometimes by the women in Japan. Paper patterns of this skirt are riot supplied by the Society. It requires careful fitting by The Syrian Skirt a dressmaker who understands the making, and amateur attempts would only rcsfllt in disappointment. The other figure shown is wearing the "Syrian" skirt. This costume is an adapta tion of the Eastern women's trouser. It is a graceful and dclightfullv comfortable dress for walking. On a well made young woman the effect is charming. Of course in this case the fact of the skirt being dual is obvious. It is perfectly easy to make, being the simplest form of skirt ever intro duced. Patterns and instructions for making can be had on enclosing 9d to the Secretary of the Bational Dress Society, 25 Warwick road, Carl's Court. S. W., London. A Fact About Fashion Plate. It will probably not escape the notice of those who see these drawings that they look somewhat different from ordinary fashion plates. This is owing to the figures being in proportion, which the figures in most fashion plates certainly are not. The feet, therefore, look large, "in fashion plates the feet are usually about the width of two fin gers of the hand, and though it may seem to those in search of new dress designs that this is of little moment, it does harm in the end. For this perpetual contemplation of figures all out ot proportion, is one ot the manv causes which keep women everlast ingly attempting to distort one part of their body or another to their own injury and discomfort. The legs being visible in the accompanying plates the figures look right without any nnnatural compression of the waist. It seems as if the time had come for women to consider carefully whether there is any reason why they should -continue al ways to wear dresses solely designed either for wearing on the stage, or at an indoor party; and whether they would not be the gainers in the end if they determined to support each other in wearing some dress which would not trip them up nor plaster them with mud, dust and filth; nor make them the langhingstock of alL beholders in every emergency. Need Not Lose Sijht of Beauty. Dresses such as here described could be as smart as any we see now if made in hand some materials and with tasteful accessories for we should never lose sight of the fact that smart dress and every-day dress must be made on the same lines. As the ma jority of women have not large sums to lay out on their dresses, and all dresses begin by being "best," and then in time are used for office, walking or traveling, as the case may be, it is impossible to have quite dif ferent styles of dress for the daytime at least But the effort to get something better is well worth making, as an unfit and unsuit able dress stamps the wearer as one who must be deficient in common sense, and women perhaps hardly realize how much this general but unconscious verdict in jures them in every way. Viscountess Habertox, President British Bational Dress Society. A NOVEL FLOWEB HOLDEB. Pretty Deslpn for the Chandelier, In TYnleh Bimboo Is Utilized. A novel and effective decoration to hang from a chandelier or in the window can be easily con structed from a few pieces o f bamboo. Take the largest piece for a central stem and ar range the other pieces to surround it Three or sixnieces can be used. Join these bv still smallerpieces to the center and fasten a ring to the upper part of the main stem by which to suspend it Colored cords and tassels help mater iallv to orna. ment it In cutting the bamboo be sure to do so below the joints, the tube-like space then left serves to hold the flowers or grasses. This holder can be made any size to suit, as the bamboo can be procured of various thicknesses. Bow 1 Made Money. "While visiting my cousin in Illinois last month, I learned she had been making money plating witli gold, silver and nickel, using the lightning plater, which she told me worked to perfection. After I got home I sent 55 to H. P. Delno & Co., Columbus, Ohio, and obtained one of their plating machines and I have now all the work I can do. My brother gets the orders and I do the work, and it Is surprising how much work can be had. Everybody has spoons, knives and forks to plate, and yon can plate quick and nice. One week I made 512 50 and this last week I made $9 and didn't do much work. As this is my first lucky streak I give my experience, hoping others mav be benefited as much as I have Deen. su Cabbie Gbisies. THE THE TABLE, IE BOUDOIR, HOME DECORATIONS BELTS ARE ALL THE RAGE, Shrna or the Times In the Shop Windows Utility the First Folnt In Wearing a Girdle Form More Important Than Quality. WBITTIN TOB THE DISPATCH.! "Belts will be fashionabli, for I intend to make them so." i Thus says the conservative head ,of a leading private dressmaking house in New York, and so settles the question of whether thehautton, those of the inner sanctuary, the Astors and Sloans for instance will wear their gowns girded this summer, or whether girdles, now in the market in large quantities, will be merely -popular. The conservative woman ot fashion will often eschew altogether a style because it is popular What "she sees on Tom, Dick and Harry s sisters she doesn t want to wear. But this conservative woman is the model we all even Tom, Dick and Harry's sis tersare desperately anxious to follow. Hence the importance ot the above pro clamation. There is indicated, in fact, by the move that brings in the belt, not a passing fancy, but a radical change in gown construction. This should be clearly understood, foi than this tendency there is nothing more im portant to note in the cotemporary history of the toilet. Cpnfininc the Garment. There are two ways of confining the gar ment to the person: One by curved in scams and the othy the bel. One constrains the cloth smoothly over the figure, making a cloth mold; the- other permits a freedom to the fabric to fall in folds and display its natural beauty, and the constraint "is appar ent and seems adequate.as it should. We have of late seen both styles worn at the same time and therefore we should be able to form an independent judgment as to the (esthetic merits of each. Who could choose the unnatural and ugly basque, clinging to the form without apparent means or rea son, to the girdling zone with its puckered folds? On high Oiympus and throughout all record of clothes in history the girdle has been famed, a chief essential of the beaut v of dress. But fancy a poet being in spired by a basque! There is no surer sign of a healthy art revival in dress than this promise held out by the belt Do not treat the belt as an ornament It has a distinctively useful purpose: When the style of the Costume requires it, it is an essential part of the costume. This is the chief aesthetic point in the wear of "the belt. It must have an appearance at least of con taining the fabric; there must seem to be a reason for it, even though the fullness is sewed down, to a fitted lining. When you put a belt over a smooth waist there is ob viously no use for the belt and it appears superfluous, and though both fabric and belt be of precious materials, the result will be without elegance. Greek Women Concealed Their Belts. It may be ornamented, may be a rich jewel, th"e most eminent jewel of the cos tume, but its superiority over other jewels lies in its being of pre-eminent use. Greek women so well understood that its greatest beauty comes from its usefulness in con straining folds, that with them often the drapery fell over and concealed it entirely. Let them teach us that if we are to wear the belt with elegance we must consider first its use, and afterward what it shall be made of. Advance knowledge regarding the spring importations says that leather belts will be of seal, alligator or calf. These will have metal and leather-covered buckles. There will be velvet and silk belts with metal buckles and clasps. Some of these are studded with steel or gilt There are be,lts of flexible metaL like elastic ribbon, silver and gilt, with filagree clasps, at $2, for light dresses. These belts are only tyi inches in width; stiff belts cannot be much wider without shortening the waist Silver NtwTorn reM buckets, very much in vogue, cost from $3 to 58, and there are imitations at a-smaller price. The double pointed or bodice belt is still seen. There are also rich belts of wrought metal, oxidized and gilded, that are expensive. One shown in the drawing, which has two beautifully chased plaques and a pef orated handkerchief pouch, is 28. Jet will be much used, and a handsome belt of black silk has three jet slides and a pointed jet clasp. When to these is added a variety of ribbons, it is apparent that the resources for waist bands are large. Nothing New Among Belts. Belts will be made of the dress fabric when the fabric has sufficient body. New York stores will take your material and make it into a belt for $L vThey will line and bind it with leather and add a leather buckle. They will keep in stock such belts made of Bedford cord and camel's hair, in black and dark blue. Knowing that one's order can thus be filled suggests the practicability of spending some, thought in designing our own belts, m which case the need of designing materials brings te the front a motive for the study of historical girdles. The amateur, in her researches, will discover that even in- belts .there is nothing new. . Ammon-Bs, the sun god sculptured on the Egyptian tombs 5,000 years ago, wears the corselet that was worn in Prance in 1889, and that mar be seen on the spring gown made in New York for this season of 1892. When objects are to be suspended from the belt a more esthetic effect is had by the nse of a double 'girdle. The Greeks wore two belts, tbe zone and. the strophion, but their object was only to produce a double cascade ot drapery. Barbarian and chival rous Europe made use of the drooping lower VtuvtT a ft y 6YrTAH eSriyJ) Ancient PITTSBURG- DISPATCH, belt, the men to hold the sword, and the women to suspend their alms bags, keys and mirror. I should like to make the point clear. Tbe whole purpose of the upper belt is to confine the garment to the figure. When this is done the object for'which it exists is completely filled. Now if vou fasten a bag to it you will press a foreign service upon it," and destroy its harmony A late Picture of Bernhardt. . and unitv. But if yon add a second girdle, loose and drooping and signifying thus that its purpose is other than constraining the gown, and to this attach your bag, there will be harmony and unity still, as before, because this second girdle will be else com pletely fulfilling its purpose. In this way elegance and beauty will be served, as they cannot be by the common compromise. Form More Important Than Quality. If one would be snpplied at small cost with belts to make a fashionable appear- ance, it is well to remember that it is not in the quality but in the form that the fashion inheres. Bichness will not enhance usefroni whence comes the greatest beauty of the belt The simplest form of girdle is of leather, with holes and a buckle. Such belts are fashionable, in good taste on cheap or common fabrics, such as cottons and wool, and cost little. For all finer gowns there are the ribbon, fashionable and beautiful and inexpensive. Ribbons will be used lor belts, passed round once, twice or thrice, and tied in a 'bow at one side of the front, and for even ing and dinner dresses ther will be made Fashionable Belles. into sashes. The fashionable sash is about six inches wide and is tied at the back with two loops standing directly upward and the ends falling to ,the bottom of the skirt Among the ribbons for this purpose there is a two-faced satin with heavy corded edges. Moire ribbons are much in vogue, and some of these are changeable; one especially ad mired is called nacre from its having all the effect of mother-of-pearl. Another very agreeable ribbon mingles moire and satin in lengthwise stripes. The sure way to make a cheap belt 'look mean is to wear it when the form of the dress shows no use for it It is thus ob vious that it is placed for an ornament and the eye is challenged to discover its cheap ness. A garniture may be placed at the bottom of a smooth waist, to mark its divis ion from the skirt, but this is a pure orna ment, a border, and not properly a belt. OrnamentedWith Pearls. Thus in Queen Bess' day a string of pearls of gems bordered the tight pointed waist, and fell in long ends in front, and this is a good illustration of the difference required in intrinsic quality between garniture merely a cincture that is an essential part of the dress. As I have pointed out above, the highest degree of beauty arises out of the belt's essential use, and, .therefore, a cheap belt rightly worn will produce an elegance that a rich one wrongly used must fail to do. To the amatenr who wilL design her own belts it may be of use to suggest that mate rial should not be used diagonally, nor, in general, vertically, but the lines of the weave should run around fpr strength in the effect. In a narrow belt this is impor tant The Turkish woman wears a charm ing sash of cross stripes, enlivening the wnole costume, but I think it will be found to be the size ot the sash that excuses the cross lines. It is the same with the Japan ese obi, frhich is gaily flowered and lull of variations, without any preference in the pattern to strength, which is sufficiently in dicated by size. And here I shonld like to point out that the reversible silks, fashion able now, with their two sides unlike, can be charmingly utilized in the sash, as sug gested by the Japanese obi in our illustra tion. Good effects in metal are linked circles and other interfacings or chain effects, and a choice can be bad between buckles and wedded clasps. A richer effect is produced when the clasps are larger than the ribbon, as is illustrated in the beautiful belt worn by Bernhardt in our illustration. Bern hardt long ago discovered the beauty and adopted the belted style -of dress. A study of the belts which this notable woman has collected and designed .would be. full of profit to the amateur. Ada Bachx-Coxx, JKyv': 5 ili XbBELhRMm ' LsV lilBlit wCAiKlHlaaaaaaaBPftB '' 1 fiCunH?M3iBBBBBBBBl hi w . SUNDAY, -MARCH 13. WORKING ON $1 A WEEK. Edward Atkinson Shows Bow to Uve Economically Twenty-Two Cents a Day Will More Than Supply Foods Recipes for Cooking Rice. fCOBRisrojfDMtci: or tub dispatch.! Bostox, March 11. Besides water and air the principal elements of food are pro tein, starch and carbo-hydrates, which in clude gums and sugar and fat Protein, the nitrogenous clement, is necessary to the production of muscle, to the development of strength. Starch is necessary to maintain the tissues of the body in working con dition. The function of fat is to serve as a reserve source of the vital heat necessary to sustain a well-built body. If it were not for this reserve one day's indigestion or fasting might be fatal. There are also in food mineral salts and other minerals, each having a distinct name, but they need not be considered in detail. It would be difficult to make up A dietary of common articles of food that would not contain a sufficient measure of these sub stances for adults. (Of course the growing child needs more phosphate of lime, for instance, than the adult) What Various Foods Contain. The protein is derived from the lean part of meat and leguminous plants,-beans, peas and some others; it is also found in more or less proportion in every kind of grain. The starch is found in almost every variety of grain and vegetable food. The fats (which are contained in some measure in some kinds of vegetables and grains, nota bly in Indian corn), are mainly derived from the fat of meat, from butter and other substances of like kind. In late years the exact proportions as sumed to be necessary of these selected .nutrients, protein, starcn and fats, have been measured and determined. They differ a little in Germany, Great Britain and the United States respectively, according to the varying conditions of the climate; the greater changes and the colder temperature of the Northern United States calling for a somewhat larger proportion of fat than is given in European dietaries. As the nutri tion of the animal man is affected by his whim, his like, his dislike and his perverted appetite, it is easier to lay down "the rule for the nutrition of beasts than of men. Sustaining life in Boiton. I have lately computed a dietary for an adult working man in Boston at the stand ard of nutrition of a German soldier in act ive service, in order to find out what it would cost The cheapest dietary is as follows: Constant 1 1 -i o o o 2 e.2 V? 5 " 3- ass Article. o I : y? gg : : : : a & . . . .v; .- n Flour 2 aiil M 1513 $ 53 Grain 12 1 63 .M 760 43 Butter 2 .03 1.73 .... 5t Suet 3 .... 1.78 .... 12 Sairar 2 193 10 Potatoes 10 .20 .... 2.10 23 Beets -.1 Carrots 9nlons L 7 .13 .03 .50 23 Squash ( ' Cabbage ! Parsnips J For30davs 57 467 482 2731 82 31 Forlday" 1.90 1.55 .160 .910 .077 Variables. Beef, neck or sbtn. Including waste 12 2 00 .40 .... 72 button, neck.... 5 .62 .11 .... SO Bacon 4 .40 2.80 .... 48 Beet liver 2 .40 .10 .... 12 Veal 1 .19 .03 .... 08 Salt poik 1 ,0J .78 .... OS ForSOdays 25 304 4.43 .... $178 Total 82 ill slT 2731 4 09 Forlday .2.73 .277 .309 .910 .126 Can Live on 7 1-3 Onts a Day. The constants would suffice to sustain life without yielding much force to be put into work. At the present day this so-called life ration that is to say, a ration which would support the life of an adult man or woman can be bought in Boston for 7 cents a dav. To this life ration may be added a work ration. This work ration may be had either at a low price for the tougher parts of meat, or at a higher price for the most tender and popular cuts. There is no substantial dif ference in the nutrition; if properly cooked either will yield appetizing and nutritious fnnd. Thfi "comnutation of prices of the tougher pieces of meat given in the forego-' ing table was maoe in tne spring, wnen veai is cheap. This work ratipn, disregarding fractions, can now be purchased in Boston at 6 cents per day on the basis ot this table, making tne total cost ot the day's ration 13U cents. A little fruit may be added, bringing the total cost of subsistence to $1 a. week This ration may be varied by sub-'' stituting milk for a part of the meat. Working on SS Cents a Day. It may not ba necessary to attempt to live at so low a price, and if it is expedient to allow a little more for waste, the con stantthat is to say, life ration may be. purchased, and to these may be added a work ration, consisting of the following ar ticles, and making the cost of food about 22 cents a day: 3 pounds beef, rump at 1 12 $66 1 " beefllver at 10 10 2 " calves' hearts at 03 10 I " mutton, loin or lorequarter. at 20 so S " tripe at 10 20 a " pork chops at 12J 25 1 " salt pork at 06 08 2 " eggs at 18doz. 27 2 ." peas at 07 14 3 " beans at 07 14 15 . " whole milk .....at 03 45 8 " IresUflsh at 12 75 1 " Tice at 06 06 1 tapioca. at 09 09 X " farina at, 06 06 1 " butter. at 28 28 S " sugar at 05 05 4S,V $4 55 Very few persons could consume this ratjon; only those who might be occupied in very active work. It is above the standard ration of a German soldier when on a forced march. Edward Atkinson. A VEEY VEE8AXHE DISH. Octave Thanet Tells the Mysteries -of the Pilaff of Bice. The pilaff is a Turkish, Armenian, Hun garian and other far-away people's dish.x It is a dish of amazing versatility, adapts it self to almost every circumstance of the larder. I was taught its mysteries by a .Hungarian. The beauty of it is that yon can do anything savory with it and not hurt it; it is as persistent asvoriginal sin. The only necessities for a pilaff are rice and some scraps of meat And if you have tomatoes you can dispense with the meat Here is a sample pilaff: One enp full of chopped meat It may be any or every kind of meat; one of the most successful pilaffs of my life a pilaff that rescued a worthy and hospitable, but for the moment destitute family, (upon whom had descended two unexpected guests) and a cook of exceptionable amia bility from despair contained remnants of baoon, mutton (mere scraps from the bone) and the leg of one chicken. To this I added Tice and tomatoes. One cup bf raw rice. Wash the rice well Then try it in a large spoonful of butter. It will grow long and rather queer looking. When it is a lively brown, strain out the rice through a sieve, and try a small onion, chopped, in the same butter recklets people use- fresh batter, jbait the other bat ter, if it has not been too harshly used, will servo very welt The onions being 1892L N HYGIENE fried, put the rice with them. Now add a can of tomatoes or the dish ot cooked to matoes left from yesterday's dinner and a pint of soup or water. If you elect to take, a teaspoontul of butter will, as the Shaugh ran says, "take the cruelty out!" Season with anything the family likes. . My own people lean to Tobasco sauce and curry; but I would not dictate; there is nothing arro gant about a pilaftl Flavor to taste. If you have no taste then, you cannot flavor, that isall! Having flavored, set the pilaff mixture back on the stove to coos softly for an hour or two, until the swimming moisture has evaporated and tbe rice is completely cooked. You may need to add more stock or boiling water. "When the rice is anite cooked and the pilaff is no longer a thick soup, but a stew, and can be piled in a platter, send it about its business. If you nave carrots, a few chipped and stewed in the pilaff will' give a very savory flavor. But for that matter, any stray vegetable can be used by the hospitable pilaff So Cin any kind of meat, the (dried ends of ham, the tip of the beef tongue or the re mains of mackerel any kind of meat, any kind ot fish that is not gone wrong. And when meat is not at hand, the pilaff sim ulates meat so cannily with a medley of vegetables that nine out often will be de ceived. For all of which reasons it is respectfully submitted. Octave Thanet. " HOW A CEE0LE COOKS BICE. A Variety of Dishes, snd One Especially Salted to the lonten Period. As a winter vegetable rice cannot be too highly commended, and to the economical soul of Prancoise, its cheapness is a large recommendation. It is an inevitable dinner dish with the Creoles; all the dusky dames de cuisine know how to cook the pearly grains so that each stands separate from the other, yet is tender to the heart To serve simply boiled rice molded at tractively is a task daily accomplished to perfection by any Creole anywhere. The usual serving shows a sodden, pasty mass, more like illy-made starch than anything else, and about as nutritious and palatable. The creole knows that to properly boil rice it should not be covered while cooking; that it must be thoroughly picked over, washed in three waters, and every imperfect and discolored grain cast aside. She puts it to boil in plenty of boiling water, allows enough for the grains to play about freely, and adds salt in the propor tion of a teaspoon ful to a cup of raw rice. She lets it boil 20 minutes; tests several grains to see if they are tender through. Then she removes it from the fire, puts it into a colander to drain, shakes well until nearly dry, puts it into a flated mold, without packing too tightly, sets it where it will keep hot without scorch ing, and when ready to serve she turns it upon a hot dish. She knows that rice should never be stirred, but that it may he tossed lightly with a fork. Cooked thus, Prancoise serves it with her gumbo soup, her fricassees and grilliades, as well as with butter and sugar for the mid-day meal of les petites. A very important factor is rice in the soups maigrcs with which the fervent Cre ole keeps her numerous fast days. During the Lenton season she abjures meat and serves as chief among many potages her riz au maigre. For this she washes four heaping table spoons of rice through three waters; puts it on to boil in one pint of cold water; as it swells adds a pint of boiling water,and when the grains are tender a third pint, also boil' ing. She peppers and salts to taste uses always the red pepper pods if pos sible. Then she beats the yolks of two eggs smooth with three tablespoonfuls of sweet milk, and stirs in this, very carefully, a cup of the rice vwater, then she stirs the mixture into the rice, briskly; adds a table spoonful of butter, draws the saucepan aside and stirs two or three minutes: she takes good care that the soup does not boil after the eggs are" added. "If this delicate soup maigre is well made it will be found very palatable, very nour ishing. When economical Prancoise has cold boiled rice left over she mixes griddle cakes, or waffles, or a pudding, to each and all of which she adds her own quaint touch that reveals undreamed of possibilities in these plain concoctions. She will serve the pudding baked in forms, its creamy top. delicately browned and accompanied bv a rich sauce thick with cinnamon; the waffles she makes with a cup of rice to one-half cup of flour, two eggs and a cup of milk, she uses a bit of butter the size of a walnut and salt to taste, and bnt one teaspoonful of baking powder. It is in their baking and serving her exceeding excellence shows; they are browned to perfection, piled lightly, buttered generously, served verv hot, with powdered cinnamon and sugar sifted over. Here again" does the safe, steady heat of charcoal answer, the waffle iron never gets too hot or too cool, but stays as it should Prancoise knows how to manage that. Emma X McLagan. BICE 15 THE OBIENX. What a Missionary to India Learned Abont . the Cheap Food. Mrs. Williams' daughter Mary, who went to India as a missionary, is home on a visit, and she has brought some native recipes for cooking rice. As a large third of the human race live on rice'it is Wortli while to see what they make of it My friend Syra says it is almost as nice as Mr. Kipling's novels to read the native names of food and think that Bam Dass and Lai and the rest of his people lived on such fare. There turned missionary reminds her that Hin doos eat little meat. The Mussulman cook ery is far more savory and nourishing. The pillau is a purely Oriental dish; veni son, kid or poultry stewed down and the gravy used to flavor tha rire which forms the principal part of it. To make pillau, parboil half a cup of rice in two quarts of water, cooking gently. Strain it irom the water and put in a large saucepan with the half-done meat in the middle. The gravy) which shonld be plentiful and savery with onions, herbs and sometimes finelr shred vegetables, is added to tbe rice and set to simmer gently. ' The meat and rice should finish cooking at the same. time. The meat' is served in a platter with the rice around it. Syra says it seems to her like a Mahom etan kind ot pork and beans chicken for pork, rice for beans. It is a. remarkable improvement on plain boiled rice. I don't know how many women have begged Mary Niles to tell the absolutely correct way to boil rice. She says it is wached in two or three waters, rubbing well between the hands. This is not so much to cleanse it as to rub off loose, floury particles which make it starchy. . It is draiued and nnf nn with nlentv of water to boil gentlv. When Just d"ne the water is drained through a colander, then the rice is put back in the saucepan and set on the back of the stove with a cloth over it to steam dry jnst as we finish boiling potatoes. The East Indian rice soup ii very good for lunch. Pour tablespoonfuls ot rice are washed and boiling water poured over it to stand a few minutes, and be drained ofE A nice broth, well seasoned the day before, is ready boiling, and the rice put to simmer in it till tender. It is much better than the common way of boiling rice separate, nd putting it in the soup when nearly done. This rice sauce for fowls is a very deli cate white dressing which may be served in stead of the English bread sauce. Steep a quarter of a pound of rice in a pint of milk with a small onion, pepper, etc., as ,ior bread sauce. "When the rice is tender rub it through a sieve'into a clean stewpan and put a cup of cream or milk to it and, heat before sending to table. ME3. PCXSIFZ& NEW ADVERTISEMENTS. A FACT true fruit, free from ethers, poisonous oils and strong, rank taste. They are natural flavors, obtained by a new process, which gives the most delicate and grate ful taste. Insist upon having Dr. Price's. Substitutes are often recommended because they afford a .better profit HINTS FOR DECORATION. How the Ugly Space Above the Doors May Be Beautified Homely Material Placed to Good Advantage The Proprieties of Certain Styles for Certain Purposes. rWEITTEX TOR THI DISPATCH. I I am not going to describe the decorative wonder and beauties that may be seen above the doorways in the houses of the Vandcr bilts, Astors or of any of onr millionaires. I am simply going to suggest what may be done by any woman to embellish her home, with the expenditure of small sums of money together with the faculty of recog nizing the decorative material she already possesses. Whips, horns, skins and guns, are arti cles which are pretty sure to be found in houses where there are men or boys; and For a jUha' Den. many and various are the ways in which these objects cm be ornamentally used. An asy arrangement for either a man's den, or a hallway, or a boy's room, is the mounting of horns on panels of wood, and the placing ot guns or riding whips upon the branches of the horns. If the door is of oak, or in fact, any varnished wood, tbe effect of ir regnlarlv studding both door and frame with very large, heavy looking brass headed nails is most pleasing. 1 In many room nowadays, palms, ferns and other, green plants are used decora tively, even the ordinary "Jew riant" or "Wandering Jew" can be made to do duty as a decoration, especially over a doorway. As this hardy little plant grows rapidly in water, it is easy to place a can or bottle holding the vine behind either picture, mir- L ror, or placque; you can train the graceful green lengths in tne direction you desire. Very many pretty contrasts "can also be got with bamboo, matting and china silk, lor they will continue to be "the proper thing" in summer homes, just as long as we continue to have warm weather. Nothing is more cooling to the sense of vision on a hot August day than to enter a room that is thus furnished. Now a good war to embellish the dnor of a room furnished in these airy materials i to nail a strip of matting above it, and this vou are to put in a frame of bamboo. If you can paint, with very little labor you can copy in oils or opaque water colors the decorations of an ordinary Japanese fan, in a large way on the matting. Plates and fans stand out well upon these mattings "over the door," and take nnto themseves a look of value far above their real cost. Even in ancient times guns, spears, arrows and other war-like implements have been placed on the walls, though there is great room for doubt as to whether thev were then so placed for mere decoration. If you have no old flint locks" or "cutlasses" in the familV, the Japanese stores will, for a small sum, furnish yon wih good substi tutes. Two swords 'and a shield can be effectively arranged, and such a door deco ration is" particularly appropriate for a library; of course, a "criss-cross" arrange ment gives a much richer and fuller effect, but more weapons are then needed. There is the "shelf" idea; upon a shelf one can place various large ornaments. Plates and placques can be nsed not only "over the door." but also on both sides o"f it. making a complete frame of these bits of color. j A draped fishnet with fishing rod an? J basket is agreeable for the "over-door" ot a J bov's chamber; so is an arrangement o'l bows, arrows ana quiver. Zella Milhatj. QtrrXOTES HI PETTICOATS. Plenty of Opportunities for Valiant Deeds In the Social World. rWMTTIN FOR THE DISrATCW.l The modern woman" of society has many opportunities for quixotic deeds. If her heart is one that stirs with the immortal Don's generous impulses, she often finds herself championing someone who is socially forlorn, misguided or misunder stood. A warm-hearted little knight in petti coats, probably in a bell skirt with an extra long train, and armed with a cardcase and a cup of tea, she bears herself valiantly in the fray of an afternoon reception. It is truly heart 'warming to hear her ofler a generous protest against the harsh Judgment passed on some absent one whose manners and motives have been "discussed in the coldly critical, analytical way, which is too much the fashion; to see her figuratively holding ont a helping hand to some acquaintance whose worst fault is an ambition to climb the social ladder; to see her cheerfully agreeable, to the neglect ed wpmaa who does not know how te get "1.1 J4 Wanderino Jem. 13 It is an established fact that the only natural flavors in the market are Dr. Price's" De licious Flavoring Extracts. Each flavor is made from the acquainted, to the tactless unpopular woman who has hardly a friend left," to the tiresome woman whom most persons mildly snub; and to note that she is courteous and gentle to the woman who is under a social cloud which may yet pass away and leavo her unshadowed. Such a woman did a charming thing at an A. Ja-pawtr Idea. artists reception the other day. A lady en tered, did not see her host and hostess or anyone whom she knew well, hesitated in embarassment for a moment, and then ap proached a group of ladies and gentlemen whom she knew slightly. She spoke to them: was answered curtly; she tried once more, and after a cruelly brusque reply the enHre group turned away from her. It was a trying moment, but rescue waJ at hand. The most beautiful and most aris tocratic woman present had seen and heard. She hurried across the room. "How do you do, Mrs. ?" she ?aid distinctly. "I fhought yon would be here to-day. Did you pas a pleasant summer? At Bar Harbor? Ah. then 1 hope you wilt come and sec me and tell me all about it I am at home to my friends from 5 to 6 every afternoon, you know." It was perfectly done. The snobbish lit tle group, not one of whom had ever re ceived an invitation from her. heard and "understood, and some of them had the grace to blush. "Of course," she said to an intimate friend who told her afterward it was "mag nificent," "one couM not blame those peo ple if they did regret in their hearts having to accept advances from JIr3. . But it was selfish and heartless to put herin such a mortilyirfg position. She had done noth ing to justifv that Thev simply did not like her. I never specially liked her my self, to tell you the truth, and under ordiii- fcy, Flis.'x' cucords (md Shield. ary circumstances I shoi'ld not have asked her to visit me. But in common charity no woman should see such cruel u ikimlness and sit calmly bv!" "And et," 'her friend rcflccW. "how many did'.'" Aloud she said: 'Wcl', mv dear, 'the quality of merer i- not strained." and socially speaking 'tis'irig'itie't in the mightiest; and become-, the throned mon arch' that's you ot, course 'better than hisciown." " Jure L Cuss. ASTH4CHAN HOSBjriES Z22 Why Cell los-in Canno'. 3 th Be.-trt rnl Stnff tYHhrn-. JtrIcVrin. Do women knowwhv it-istlnt Astra-hii, or Persian lamb n it j o.'tenest called nowadays, costs so much? -vies C-l:a Logan. It isn't b:cause in aid of itself it is special ly beautiful or specibllr lieconing, lor it ii neither. 'It is the cost of life that they are paying for. just as the female i absnl t ve b'rth to the kid 'he is killed and the skin stripped from the unborn, but often Iivii:- little one. This inhuman practice is owing to the fact that onlr in this way can the soft, finesilki ness of the fur be preened. After birth it becomes harsh and wiry. Twh lives have to be taken to get one small skin, aid this is what makes astrachan so dear. This, too, is why I shudder when I see a woman wearing an astrachan coat or cae. Is a fashion w.orth following that is so prodigal qt life as this? It is worse than the slaughter of seals and birds for fashion's sake, and the slow torture ot the gooso for the pate de .foi gras that make the epicure happy. And these are bad enough. No other liniment is like Salvation Oil. It stands alone a superior articl 25 centa wr.- FINE WALL PAPERS ; f iTMe & Gos, 541 WOOD STREET 541 BAKE COMMERCE lEpwf rSi feST3ite'rT BUILDING. Jj Telephone 1324., jfl 1 i fr41r. OVAif. . SLdb., S x.Z iyjiagJ!JaSrirxjigWiiSrfi VV
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers