&&&&&&&&
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THE REFORM ORESS,
Ideas of the British Bational Society
as Expounded by the Vis
countess Haberton.
SKIRTS CLEAKIKG THE GROUND
ire ill Eight in Theory but in Prac ie a
Woman Gets Just as Much Mud
as With Trailers. '
JAPANESE AXD BTRIAU DESIGXS.
Twt Pictures That Differ Frcm Faihion Plates in
Being True to Stature.
rcORrrs.ro vdenci op toe wsPATcn.i
Loxdojt, Feb. 29.
OWEYEB the world
may view it dress
will remain a subject
of prime importance
to every woman. At
one time, some people
when they first heard
of the Rational Dress
Society were apt to
say they saw nothing
in the present style
of dress to call for alteration. But few
who are in possession of sight and sense
wonld be able to say this at present. There
can be nothing more palpably loathsome
than the fashion of trailing the skirt of the
dress along the streets, into what the medi
cal papers call sputa, and other objects
equally disgusting. The women who are
in the habit of doing this then go into
houses and sit bv the fire, when the dried
particles of all these horrors float freely
about the room to be inhaled by everyone;
and though people wipe their boots on
cominginto a house, no woman makes any
attempt at cleansing or disinfecting her
dress.
This is not 3 pleasant subject to write or
read about, and hardly mentionable to ears
polite, but if the mentioning it is unpleas
ant what shall we think of the thousands
who actually do it.
DonnTVith Malce Aforethoneht
And the length of the dress is no mere ac
cident, for if a lady orders a "walking
dress" from her dressmaker, it i now sent
home with a good four inches of the skirt
intended to trail on the ground, thus mak
ing it impossible to doubt the intention of
the fashion that the dress while walking
should thus b seen. Some people make
an attempt to hold up these skirts, but this
has the no slight disadvantages of making
the wearers appear to waddle instead of
nal!-. of exhibiting various forms of under
clothing not apparently intended to be seen
bv the public, of being extremely fatiguing
it kept up for long; and in the event of tbe
hands being required for any other purpose
the holding of the dress becomes an impossi
bility. Soaie few people do not like to have their
skirl, actually trailing in the dirt, so they
instruct their dressmakers to make it 'Must
clear the ground." The result which
usually follows is that they have it about a
couple of inches oft the ground in front,
while at the bae'e it dips at every step and
effectually sweeps into the dirt.
Just Clearing the Ground.
They never seem to realize that, owing
to theinvariable custom of putting much
fullness at the back of the dress, the weight
ot the material soon causes the dress to fall
there to the extent of some two inches,
while the front remains as it was made.
Therefore, it they really want their skirt to
"clear" the ground they should have it
made two inches shorter at the back than
thev wish it actually to appear.
This sort of length is undoubtedly the
popular ideal of a short dress "just 'clear
ins the ground." It is also about the
ugliest form of skirt possible. It is too
short for the "flowing drapery" ideal con
sidered by those who hold the same relation
to art that false prophets do to religion, as
the only suitable attire for women. And it
is too long for the beauty which is contained
in suitability and harmony. It usually ap
pears to pull round the ankles in walking,
and obvious discomfort is inartistic; heels
The Japanese Skirt.
and skirts also actually plaster each other
with mud quite as effectually as in a trail
ing skirt. And a dress that seems not to
touch the road on the level, trails steadily
on it when going down the slightest hill,
covering stockings and underclothing with
du't should the weather be dry, when no
one ever thinks it necessary to hold the
dress up. '
Objections to the Short Dress.
The only rule as to length of skirt which
will avoid" these objections and prevent the
heel scraping against it at every step, is to
hare it mode the length of the wearer's foot
and two inches more from the ground. But
it is useless to endeavor to get women to
wear really short dresses if theyaretobe
irade on the old lines. There is" no possi
bilitv of their ever keeping to any uniform
length, as a few inches longer would so soon
become the fashion. Also there can be no
question that these sort of skirts are not
verv decent, as if the wearer stoops iorward
or goes up steps, or crosses the legs when
sitting down, she cannot fail to exhibit un
derclothing. And evenif.as is proposed
bv those who advocate this form of skirt,
knickerbockers to match are worn, the fact
remains that all clothing supposed to be in
visible, when casually exposed to view,
gives the impression of indecency.
Now the dresses in the accompanying
illustration from designs of the National
Dress Society are free from all these difficul
ties. Both tbe figures are represented in
ordinary morning or walking dress.
ADh iston ot Apparent.
The one wearing the longer jacket wears
Mi
?UJrj7? ?? rv
YFZU Ir? If
a specimen of the "Japanese" skirt. It is
of course made dual, i. e., two-legged,
though neither in the drawing nor'in actual
wear is the division apparent. This is due
to the manner in which it is cut, and the
arrangement of the folds, as there is no
overskirt ot any sort. These skirts cannot
well be worn longer than the one in the
drawing about 12 inches off the ground.
The name "Japanese" was given to this cos
tume as the idea was first taken from part
ot the dress worn by Japanese noblemen.
A form of skirt very similar is also worn
sometimes by the women in Japan. Paper
patterns of this skirt are riot supplied by
the Society. It requires careful fitting by
The Syrian Skirt
a dressmaker who understands the making,
and amateur attempts would only rcsfllt in
disappointment.
The other figure shown is wearing the
"Syrian" skirt. This costume is an adapta
tion of the Eastern women's trouser. It is
a graceful and dclightfullv comfortable
dress for walking. On a well made young
woman the effect is charming. Of course in
this case the fact of the skirt being dual is
obvious. It is perfectly easy to make,
being the simplest form of skirt ever intro
duced. Patterns and instructions for making can
be had on enclosing 9d to the Secretary of
the Bational Dress Society, 25 Warwick
road, Carl's Court. S. W., London.
A Fact About Fashion Plate.
It will probably not escape the notice of
those who see these drawings that they look
somewhat different from ordinary fashion
plates. This is owing to the figures being
in proportion, which the figures in most
fashion plates certainly are not. The feet,
therefore, look large, "in fashion plates the
feet are usually about the width of two fin
gers of the hand, and though it may seem to
those in search of new dress designs that
this is of little moment, it does harm in the
end. For this perpetual contemplation of
figures all out ot proportion, is one ot the
manv causes which keep women everlast
ingly attempting to distort one part of their
body or another to their own injury and
discomfort. The legs being visible in the
accompanying plates the figures look right
without any nnnatural compression of the
waist.
It seems as if the time had come for
women to consider carefully whether there
is any reason why they should -continue al
ways to wear dresses solely designed either
for wearing on the stage, or at an indoor
party; and whether they would not be the
gainers in the end if they determined to
support each other in wearing some dress
which would not trip them up nor plaster
them with mud, dust and filth; nor make
them the langhingstock of alL beholders in
every emergency.
Need Not Lose Sijht of Beauty.
Dresses such as here described could be
as smart as any we see now if made in hand
some materials and with tasteful accessories
for we should never lose sight of the fact
that smart dress and every-day dress must
be made on the same lines. As the ma
jority of women have not large sums to lay
out on their dresses, and all dresses begin
by being "best," and then in time are used
for office, walking or traveling, as the case
may be, it is impossible to have quite dif
ferent styles of dress for the daytime at
least
But the effort to get something better is
well worth making, as an unfit and unsuit
able dress stamps the wearer as one who
must be deficient in common sense, and
women perhaps hardly realize how much
this general but unconscious verdict in
jures them in every way.
Viscountess Habertox,
President British Bational Dress Society.
A NOVEL FLOWEB HOLDEB.
Pretty Deslpn for the Chandelier, In TYnleh
Bimboo Is Utilized.
A novel and effective decoration to hang
from a chandelier or in the window can be
easily con
structed from
a few pieces
o f bamboo.
Take the
largest piece
for a central
stem and ar
range the
other pieces
to surround
it Three or
sixnieces can
be used. Join
these bv still
smallerpieces
to the center
and fasten a
ring to the
upper part of
the main stem
by which to
suspend it
Colored cords
and tassels
help mater
iallv to orna.
ment it In cutting the bamboo be sure to
do so below the joints, the tube-like space
then left serves to hold the flowers or
grasses. This holder can be made any size
to suit, as the bamboo can be procured of
various thicknesses.
Bow 1 Made Money.
"While visiting my cousin in Illinois last
month, I learned she had been making
money plating witli gold, silver and nickel,
using the lightning plater, which she told
me worked to perfection. After I got home
I sent 55 to H. P. Delno & Co., Columbus,
Ohio, and obtained one of their plating
machines and I have now all the work I can
do. My brother gets the orders and I do
the work, and it Is surprising how much
work can be had. Everybody has spoons,
knives and forks to plate, and yon can plate
quick and nice. One week I made 512 50
and this last week I made $9 and didn't do
much work. As this is my first lucky
streak I give my experience, hoping others
mav be benefited as much as I have Deen.
su Cabbie Gbisies.
THE
THE TABLE, IE BOUDOIR, HOME DECORATIONS
BELTS ARE ALL THE RAGE,
Shrna or the Times In the Shop Windows
Utility the First Folnt In Wearing a
Girdle Form More Important Than
Quality.
WBITTIN TOB THE DISPATCH.!
"Belts will be fashionabli, for I intend to
make them so." i
Thus says the conservative head ,of a
leading private dressmaking house in New
York, and so settles the question of whether
thehautton, those of the inner sanctuary,
the Astors and Sloans for instance will
wear their gowns girded this summer, or
whether girdles, now in the market in
large quantities, will be merely -popular.
The conservative woman ot fashion will
often eschew altogether a style because it is
popular What "she sees on Tom, Dick and
Harry s sisters she doesn t want to wear.
But this conservative woman is the model
we all even Tom, Dick and Harry's sis
tersare desperately anxious to follow.
Hence the importance ot the above pro
clamation. There is indicated, in fact, by the move
that brings in the belt, not a passing fancy,
but a radical change in gown construction.
This should be clearly understood, foi than
this tendency there is nothing more im
portant to note in the cotemporary history
of the toilet.
Cpnfininc the Garment.
There are two ways of confining the gar
ment to the person: One by curved in
scams and the othy the bel. One constrains
the cloth smoothly over the figure, making
a cloth mold; the- other permits a freedom
to the fabric to fall in folds and display its
natural beauty, and the constraint "is appar
ent and seems adequate.as it should. We have
of late seen both styles worn at the same
time and therefore we should be able to
form an independent judgment as to the
(esthetic merits of each. Who could choose
the unnatural and ugly basque, clinging to
the form without apparent means or rea
son, to the girdling zone with its puckered
folds? On high Oiympus and throughout
all record of clothes in history the girdle
has been famed, a chief essential of the
beaut v of dress. But fancy a poet being in
spired by a basque! There is no surer sign
of a healthy art revival in dress than this
promise held out by the belt
Do not treat the belt as an ornament It
has a distinctively useful purpose: When
the style of the Costume requires it, it is an
essential part of the costume. This is the
chief aesthetic point in the wear of "the belt.
It must have an appearance at least of con
taining the fabric; there must seem to be a
reason for it, even though the fullness is
sewed down, to a fitted lining. When you
put a belt over a smooth waist there is ob
viously no use for the belt and it appears
superfluous, and though both fabric and
belt be of precious materials, the result will
be without elegance.
Greek Women Concealed Their Belts.
It may be ornamented, may be a rich
jewel, th"e most eminent jewel of the cos
tume, but its superiority over other jewels
lies in its being of pre-eminent use. Greek
women so well understood that its greatest
beauty comes from its usefulness in con
straining folds, that with them often the
drapery fell over and concealed it entirely.
Let them teach us that if we are to wear
the belt with elegance we must consider
first its use, and afterward what it shall be
made of.
Advance knowledge regarding the spring
importations says that leather belts will be
of seal, alligator or calf. These will have
metal and leather-covered buckles. There
will be velvet and silk belts with metal
buckles and clasps. Some of these are
studded with steel or gilt There are be,lts
of flexible metaL like elastic ribbon, silver
and gilt, with filagree clasps, at $2, for light
dresses. These belts are only tyi inches in
width; stiff belts cannot be much wider
without shortening the waist Silver
NtwTorn reM
buckets, very much in vogue, cost from $3
to 58, and there are imitations at a-smaller
price. The double pointed or bodice belt is
still seen. There are also rich belts of
wrought metal, oxidized and gilded, that
are expensive. One shown in the drawing,
which has two beautifully chased plaques
and a pef orated handkerchief pouch, is 28.
Jet will be much used, and a handsome belt
of black silk has three jet slides and a
pointed jet clasp. When to these is added
a variety of ribbons, it is apparent that the
resources for waist bands are large.
Nothing New Among Belts.
Belts will be made of the dress fabric
when the fabric has sufficient body. New
York stores will take your material and
make it into a belt for $L vThey will line
and bind it with leather and add a leather
buckle. They will keep in stock such
belts made of Bedford cord and camel's
hair, in black and dark blue. Knowing
that one's order can thus be filled suggests
the practicability of spending some, thought
in designing our own belts, m which case
the need of designing materials brings te
the front a motive for the study of historical
girdles. The amateur, in her researches,
will discover that even in- belts .there is
nothing new. . Ammon-Bs, the sun god
sculptured on the Egyptian tombs 5,000
years ago, wears the corselet that was worn
in Prance in 1889, and that mar be seen on
the spring gown made in New York for this
season of 1892.
When objects are to be suspended from
the belt a more esthetic effect is had by the
nse of a double 'girdle. The Greeks wore
two belts, tbe zone and. the strophion, but
their object was only to produce a double
cascade ot drapery. Barbarian and chival
rous Europe made use of the drooping lower
VtuvtT a ft y 6YrTAH eSriyJ)
Ancient
PITTSBURG- DISPATCH,
belt, the men to hold the sword, and the
women to suspend their alms bags, keys and
mirror. I should like to make the point
clear. Tbe whole purpose of the upper belt
is to confine the garment to the figure.
When this is done the object for'which it
exists is completely filled. Now if vou
fasten a bag to it you will press a foreign
service upon it," and destroy its harmony
A late Picture of Bernhardt. .
and unitv. But if yon add a second girdle,
loose and drooping and signifying thus that
its purpose is other than constraining the
gown, and to this attach your bag, there
will be harmony and unity still, as before,
because this second girdle will be else com
pletely fulfilling its purpose. In this way
elegance and beauty will be served, as they
cannot be by the common compromise.
Form More Important Than Quality.
If one would be snpplied at small cost
with belts to make a fashionable appear-
ance, it is well to remember that it is not
in the quality but in the form that the
fashion inheres. Bichness will not enhance
usefroni whence comes the greatest beauty
of the belt The simplest form of girdle is
of leather, with holes and a buckle. Such
belts are fashionable, in good taste on cheap
or common fabrics, such as cottons and
wool, and cost little. For all finer gowns
there are the ribbon, fashionable and
beautiful and inexpensive. Ribbons will
be used lor belts, passed round once,
twice or thrice, and tied in a 'bow at
one side of the front, and for even
ing and dinner dresses ther will be made
Fashionable Belles.
into sashes. The fashionable sash is about
six inches wide and is tied at the back with
two loops standing directly upward and the
ends falling to ,the bottom of the skirt
Among the ribbons for this purpose there is
a two-faced satin with heavy corded edges.
Moire ribbons are much in vogue, and some
of these are changeable; one especially ad
mired is called nacre from its having all the
effect of mother-of-pearl. Another very
agreeable ribbon mingles moire and satin in
lengthwise stripes.
The sure way to make a cheap belt 'look
mean is to wear it when the form of the
dress shows no use for it It is thus ob
vious that it is placed for an ornament and
the eye is challenged to discover its cheap
ness. A garniture may be placed at the
bottom of a smooth waist, to mark its divis
ion from the skirt, but this is a pure orna
ment, a border, and not properly a belt.
OrnamentedWith Pearls.
Thus in Queen Bess' day a string of pearls
of gems bordered the tight pointed waist,
and fell in long ends in front, and this is a
good illustration of the difference required
in intrinsic quality between garniture
merely a cincture that is an essential part
of the dress. As I have pointed out above,
the highest degree of beauty arises out of
the belt's essential use, and, .therefore, a
cheap belt rightly worn will produce an
elegance that a rich one wrongly used must
fail to do.
To the amatenr who wilL design her own
belts it may be of use to suggest that mate
rial should not be used diagonally, nor, in
general, vertically, but the lines of the
weave should run around fpr strength in
the effect. In a narrow belt this is impor
tant The Turkish woman wears a charm
ing sash of cross stripes, enlivening the
wnole costume, but I think it will be found
to be the size ot the sash that excuses the
cross lines. It is the same with the Japan
ese obi, frhich is gaily flowered and lull of
variations, without any preference in the
pattern to strength, which is sufficiently in
dicated by size. And here I shonld like to
point out that the reversible silks, fashion
able now, with their two sides unlike, can
be charmingly utilized in the sash, as sug
gested by the Japanese obi in our illustra
tion. Good effects in metal are linked circles
and other interfacings or chain effects, and a
choice can be bad between buckles and
wedded clasps. A richer effect is produced
when the clasps are larger than the ribbon,
as is illustrated in the beautiful belt worn
by Bernhardt in our illustration. Bern
hardt long ago discovered the beauty and
adopted the belted style -of dress. A study
of the belts which this notable woman has
collected and designed .would be. full of
profit to the amateur.
Ada Bachx-Coxx,
JKyv':
5 ili XbBELhRMm ' LsV
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wCAiKlHlaaaaaaaBPftB '' 1
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SUNDAY, -MARCH 13.
WORKING ON $1 A WEEK.
Edward Atkinson Shows Bow to Uve
Economically Twenty-Two Cents a Day
Will More Than Supply Foods Recipes
for Cooking Rice.
fCOBRisrojfDMtci: or tub dispatch.!
Bostox, March 11. Besides water and
air the principal elements of food are pro
tein, starch and carbo-hydrates, which in
clude gums and sugar and fat Protein, the
nitrogenous clement, is necessary to the
production of muscle, to the development of
strength. Starch is necessary to maintain
the tissues of the body in working con
dition. The function of fat is to serve as a
reserve source of the vital heat necessary to
sustain a well-built body. If it were not
for this reserve one day's indigestion or
fasting might be fatal.
There are also in food mineral salts and
other minerals, each having a distinct name,
but they need not be considered in detail.
It would be difficult to make up A dietary
of common articles of food that would not
contain a sufficient measure of these sub
stances for adults. (Of course the growing
child needs more phosphate of lime, for
instance, than the adult)
What Various Foods Contain.
The protein is derived from the lean part
of meat and leguminous plants,-beans, peas
and some others; it is also found in more or
less proportion in every kind of grain.
The starch is found in almost every variety
of grain and vegetable food. The fats
(which are contained in some measure in
some kinds of vegetables and grains, nota
bly in Indian corn), are mainly derived
from the fat of meat, from butter and other
substances of like kind.
In late years the exact proportions as
sumed to be necessary of these selected
.nutrients, protein, starcn and fats, have
been measured and determined. They differ
a little in Germany, Great Britain and the
United States respectively, according to the
varying conditions of the climate; the
greater changes and the colder temperature
of the Northern United States calling for a
somewhat larger proportion of fat than is
given in European dietaries. As the nutri
tion of the animal man is affected by his
whim, his like, his dislike and his perverted
appetite, it is easier to lay down "the rule
for the nutrition of beasts than of men.
Sustaining life in Boiton.
I have lately computed a dietary for an
adult working man in Boston at the stand
ard of nutrition of a German soldier in act
ive service, in order to find out what it
would cost The cheapest dietary is as
follows:
Constant
1 1 -i o o
o 2 e.2 V?
5 " 3- ass
Article. o I : y? gg
: : : : a &
. . . .v; .- n
Flour 2 aiil M 1513 $ 53
Grain 12 1 63 .M 760 43
Butter 2 .03 1.73 .... 5t
Suet 3 .... 1.78 .... 12
Sairar 2 193 10
Potatoes 10 .20 .... 2.10 23
Beets -.1
Carrots
9nlons L 7 .13 .03 .50 23
Squash ( '
Cabbage !
Parsnips J
For30davs 57 467 482 2731 82 31
Forlday" 1.90 1.55 .160 .910 .077
Variables.
Beef, neck or
sbtn. Including
waste 12 2 00 .40 .... 72
button, neck.... 5 .62 .11 .... SO
Bacon 4 .40 2.80 .... 48
Beet liver 2 .40 .10 .... 12
Veal 1 .19 .03 .... 08
Salt poik 1 ,0J .78 .... OS
ForSOdays 25 304 4.43 .... $178
Total 82 ill slT 2731 4 09
Forlday .2.73 .277 .309 .910 .126
Can Live on 7 1-3 Onts a Day.
The constants would suffice to sustain life
without yielding much force to be put into
work. At the present day this so-called
life ration that is to say, a ration which
would support the life of an adult man or
woman can be bought in Boston for 7
cents a dav.
To this life ration may be added a work
ration. This work ration may be had either
at a low price for the tougher parts of meat,
or at a higher price for the most tender and
popular cuts. There is no substantial dif
ference in the nutrition; if properly cooked
either will yield appetizing and nutritious
fnnd. Thfi "comnutation of prices of the
tougher pieces of meat given in the forego-'
ing table was maoe in tne spring, wnen veai
is cheap. This work ratipn, disregarding
fractions, can now be purchased in Boston
at 6 cents per day on the basis ot this table,
making tne total cost ot the day's ration
13U cents. A little fruit may be added,
bringing the total cost of subsistence to $1 a.
week This ration may be varied by sub-''
stituting milk for a part of the meat.
Working on SS Cents a Day.
It may not ba necessary to attempt to
live at so low a price, and if it is expedient
to allow a little more for waste, the con
stantthat is to say, life ration may be.
purchased, and to these may be added a
work ration, consisting of the following ar
ticles, and making the cost of food about 22
cents a day:
3 pounds beef, rump at 1 12 $66
1 " beefllver at 10 10
2 " calves' hearts at 03 10
I " mutton, loin or
lorequarter. at 20 so
S " tripe at 10 20
a " pork chops at 12J 25
1 " salt pork at 06 08
2 " eggs at 18doz. 27
2 ." peas at 07 14
3 " beans at 07 14
15 . " whole milk .....at 03 45
8 " IresUflsh at 12 75
1 " Tice at 06 06
1 tapioca. at 09 09
X " farina at, 06 06
1 " butter. at 28 28
S " sugar at 05 05
4S,V $4 55
Very few persons could consume this
ratjon; only those who might be occupied
in very active work. It is above the
standard ration of a German soldier when
on a forced march. Edward Atkinson.
A VEEY VEE8AXHE DISH.
Octave Thanet Tells the Mysteries -of the
Pilaff of Bice.
The pilaff is a Turkish, Armenian, Hun
garian and other far-away people's dish.x It
is a dish of amazing versatility, adapts it
self to almost every circumstance of the
larder. I was taught its mysteries by a
.Hungarian. The beauty of it is that yon
can do anything savory with it and not
hurt it; it is as persistent asvoriginal sin.
The only necessities for a pilaff are rice
and some scraps of meat And if you have
tomatoes you can dispense with the meat
Here is a sample pilaff:
One enp full of chopped meat It may
be any or every kind of meat; one of the
most successful pilaffs of my life a pilaff
that rescued a worthy and hospitable, but
for the moment destitute family, (upon
whom had descended two unexpected
guests) and a cook of exceptionable amia
bility from despair contained remnants of
baoon, mutton (mere scraps from the bone)
and the leg of one chicken. To this I added
Tice and tomatoes. One cup bf raw rice.
Wash the rice well Then try it in a large
spoonful of butter. It will grow long and
rather queer looking. When it is a lively
brown, strain out the rice through a
sieve, and try a small onion, chopped,
in the same butter recklets people
use- fresh batter, jbait the other bat
ter, if it has not been too harshly used,
will servo very welt The onions being
1892L
N
HYGIENE
fried, put the rice with them. Now add a
can of tomatoes or the dish ot cooked to
matoes left from yesterday's dinner and a
pint of soup or water. If you elect to take,
a teaspoontul of butter will, as the Shaugh
ran says, "take the cruelty out!" Season
with anything the family likes. . My own
people lean to Tobasco sauce and curry; but
I would not dictate; there is nothing arro
gant about a pilaftl Flavor to taste. If you
have no taste then, you cannot flavor, that
isall!
Having flavored, set the pilaff mixture
back on the stove to coos softly for an
hour or two, until the swimming moisture
has evaporated and tbe rice is completely
cooked. You may need to add more stock
or boiling water. "When the rice is anite
cooked and the pilaff is no longer a thick
soup, but a stew, and can be piled in a
platter, send it about its business. If you
nave carrots, a few chipped and stewed in
the pilaff will' give a very savory flavor.
But for that matter, any stray vegetable
can be used by the hospitable pilaff So
Cin any kind of meat, the (dried ends of
ham, the tip of the beef tongue or the re
mains of mackerel any kind of meat, any
kind ot fish that is not gone wrong. And
when meat is not at hand, the pilaff sim
ulates meat so cannily with a medley of
vegetables that nine out often will be de
ceived. For all of which reasons it is respectfully
submitted. Octave Thanet. "
HOW A CEE0LE COOKS BICE.
A Variety of Dishes, snd One Especially
Salted to the lonten Period.
As a winter vegetable rice cannot be too
highly commended, and to the economical
soul of Prancoise, its cheapness is a large
recommendation. It is an inevitable dinner
dish with the Creoles; all the dusky dames
de cuisine know how to cook the pearly
grains so that each stands separate from the
other, yet is tender to the heart
To serve simply boiled rice molded at
tractively is a task daily accomplished to
perfection by any Creole anywhere. The
usual serving shows a sodden, pasty mass,
more like illy-made starch than anything
else, and about as nutritious and palatable.
The creole knows that to properly boil rice
it should not be covered while cooking;
that it must be thoroughly picked over,
washed in three waters, and every imperfect
and discolored grain cast aside. She puts
it to boil in plenty of boiling water,
allows enough for the grains to play
about freely, and adds salt in the propor
tion of a teaspoon ful to a cup of raw rice.
She lets it boil 20 minutes; tests several
grains to see if they are tender through.
Then she removes it from the fire, puts it
into a colander to drain, shakes well until
nearly dry, puts it into a flated mold,
without packing too tightly, sets it
where it will keep hot without scorch
ing, and when ready to serve she turns it
upon a hot dish. She knows that rice
should never be stirred, but that it may
he tossed lightly with a fork. Cooked
thus, Prancoise serves it with her gumbo
soup, her fricassees and grilliades, as well
as with butter and sugar for the mid-day
meal of les petites.
A very important factor is rice in the
soups maigrcs with which the fervent Cre
ole keeps her numerous fast days. During
the Lenton season she abjures meat and
serves as chief among many potages her riz
au maigre.
For this she washes four heaping table
spoons of rice through three waters; puts it
on to boil in one pint of cold water; as it
swells adds a pint of boiling water,and when
the grains are tender a third pint, also boil'
ing. She peppers and salts to taste uses
always the red pepper pods if pos
sible. Then she beats the yolks of two
eggs smooth with three tablespoonfuls of
sweet milk, and stirs in this, very carefully,
a cup of the rice vwater, then she stirs the
mixture into the rice, briskly; adds a table
spoonful of butter, draws the saucepan
aside and stirs two or three minutes: she
takes good care that the soup does not boil
after the eggs are" added.
"If this delicate soup maigre is well made
it will be found very palatable, very nour
ishing. When economical Prancoise has cold
boiled rice left over she mixes griddle
cakes, or waffles, or a pudding, to each and
all of which she adds her own quaint touch
that reveals undreamed of possibilities in
these plain concoctions. She will serve the
pudding baked in forms, its creamy top.
delicately browned and accompanied bv a
rich sauce thick with cinnamon; the waffles
she makes with a cup of rice to one-half cup
of flour, two eggs and a cup of milk, she
uses a bit of butter the size of a walnut and
salt to taste, and bnt one teaspoonful of
baking powder. It is in their baking and
serving her exceeding excellence shows;
they are browned to perfection, piled lightly,
buttered generously, served verv hot, with
powdered cinnamon and sugar sifted over.
Here again" does the safe, steady heat of
charcoal answer, the waffle iron never gets
too hot or too cool, but stays as it should
Prancoise knows how to manage that.
Emma X McLagan.
BICE 15 THE OBIENX.
What a Missionary to India Learned Abont
. the Cheap Food.
Mrs. Williams' daughter Mary, who went
to India as a missionary, is home on a visit,
and she has brought some native recipes for
cooking rice. As a large third of the
human race live on rice'it is Wortli while to
see what they make of it My friend Syra
says it is almost as nice as Mr. Kipling's
novels to read the native names of food and
think that Bam Dass and Lai and the rest
of his people lived on such fare. There
turned missionary reminds her that Hin
doos eat little meat. The Mussulman cook
ery is far more savory and nourishing.
The pillau is a purely Oriental dish; veni
son, kid or poultry stewed down and the
gravy used to flavor tha rire which forms
the principal part of it. To make pillau,
parboil half a cup of rice in two quarts of
water, cooking gently. Strain it irom the
water and put in a large saucepan with the
half-done meat in the middle. The gravy)
which shonld be plentiful and savery with
onions, herbs and sometimes finelr shred
vegetables, is added to tbe rice and set to
simmer gently. ' The meat and rice should
finish cooking at the same. time. The meat'
is served in a platter with the rice around
it. Syra says it seems to her like a Mahom
etan kind ot pork and beans chicken for
pork, rice for beans. It is a. remarkable
improvement on plain boiled rice.
I don't know how many women have
begged Mary Niles to tell the absolutely
correct way to boil rice. She says it is
wached in two or three waters, rubbing well
between the hands. This is not so much to
cleanse it as to rub off loose, floury particles
which make it starchy. . It is draiued and
nnf nn with nlentv of water to boil gentlv.
When Just d"ne the water is drained
through a colander, then the rice is put
back in the saucepan and set on the back of
the stove with a cloth over it to steam dry
jnst as we finish boiling potatoes.
The East Indian rice soup ii very good
for lunch. Pour tablespoonfuls ot rice are
washed and boiling water poured over it to
stand a few minutes, and be drained ofE A
nice broth, well seasoned the day before, is
ready boiling, and the rice put to simmer
in it till tender. It is much better than
the common way of boiling rice separate,
nd putting it in the soup when nearly
done.
This rice sauce for fowls is a very deli
cate white dressing which may be served in
stead of the English bread sauce. Steep a
quarter of a pound of rice in a pint of milk
with a small onion, pepper, etc., as ,ior
bread sauce. "When the rice is tender rub
it through a sieve'into a clean stewpan and
put a cup of cream or milk to it and, heat
before sending to table.
ME3. PCXSIFZ&
NEW ADVERTISEMENTS.
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true fruit, free from ethers, poisonous oils and strong,
rank taste. They are natural flavors, obtained by a
new process, which gives the most delicate and grate
ful taste. Insist upon having Dr. Price's. Substitutes
are often recommended because they afford a .better
profit
HINTS FOR DECORATION.
How the Ugly Space Above the Doors May
Be Beautified Homely Material Placed
to Good Advantage The Proprieties of
Certain Styles for Certain Purposes.
rWEITTEX TOR THI DISPATCH. I
I am not going to describe the decorative
wonder and beauties that may be seen above
the doorways in the houses of the Vandcr
bilts, Astors or of any of onr millionaires.
I am simply going to suggest what may be
done by any woman to embellish her home,
with the expenditure of small sums of
money together with the faculty of recog
nizing the decorative material she already
possesses.
Whips, horns, skins and guns, are arti
cles which are pretty sure to be found in
houses where there are men or boys; and
For a jUha' Den.
many and various are the ways in which
these objects cm be ornamentally used. An
asy arrangement for either a man's den, or
a hallway, or a boy's room, is the mounting
of horns on panels of wood, and the placing
ot guns or riding whips upon the branches
of the horns. If the door is of oak, or in
fact, any varnished wood, tbe effect of ir
regnlarlv studding both door and frame
with very large, heavy looking brass headed
nails is most pleasing. 1
In many room nowadays, palms, ferns
and other, green plants are used decora
tively, even the ordinary "Jew riant" or
"Wandering Jew" can be made to do duty
as a decoration, especially over a doorway.
As this hardy little plant grows rapidly in
water, it is easy to place a can or bottle
holding the vine behind either picture, mir-
L ror, or placque; you can train the graceful
green lengths in tne direction you desire.
Very many pretty contrasts "can also be
got with bamboo, matting and china silk,
lor they will continue to be "the proper
thing" in summer homes, just as long as we
continue to have warm weather. Nothing
is more cooling to the sense of vision on a
hot August day than to enter a room that is
thus furnished.
Now a good war to embellish the dnor of
a room furnished in these airy materials i
to nail a strip of matting above it, and this
vou are to put in a frame of bamboo.
If you can paint, with very
little labor you can copy in oils or opaque
water colors the decorations of an ordinary
Japanese fan, in a large way on the matting.
Plates and fans stand out well upon these
mattings "over the door," and take nnto
themseves a look of value far above their
real cost.
Even in ancient times guns, spears, arrows
and other war-like implements have been
placed on the walls, though there is great
room for doubt as to whether thev were
then so placed for mere decoration. If you
have no old flint locks" or "cutlasses" in
the familV, the Japanese stores will, for a
small sum, furnish yon wih good substi
tutes. Two swords 'and a shield can be
effectively arranged, and such a door deco
ration is" particularly appropriate for a
library; of course, a "criss-cross" arrange
ment gives a much richer and fuller effect,
but more weapons are then needed.
There is the "shelf" idea; upon a shelf
one can place various large ornaments.
Plates and placques can be nsed not only
"over the door." but also on both sides o"f
it. making a complete frame of these bits of
color. j
A draped fishnet with fishing rod an? J
basket is agreeable for the "over-door" ot a J
bov's chamber; so is an arrangement o'l
bows, arrows ana quiver.
Zella Milhatj.
QtrrXOTES HI PETTICOATS.
Plenty of Opportunities for Valiant Deeds
In the Social World.
rWMTTIN FOR THE DISrATCW.l
The modern woman" of society has many
opportunities for quixotic deeds. If her
heart is one that stirs with the immortal
Don's generous impulses, she often finds
herself championing someone who is
socially forlorn, misguided or misunder
stood. A warm-hearted little knight in petti
coats, probably in a bell skirt with an extra
long train, and armed with a cardcase and a
cup of tea, she bears herself valiantly in
the fray of an afternoon reception. It is
truly heart 'warming to hear her ofler a
generous protest against the harsh Judgment
passed on some absent one whose manners
and motives have been "discussed in the
coldly critical, analytical way, which
is too much the fashion; to see her
figuratively holding ont a helping
hand to some acquaintance whose worst fault
is an ambition to climb the social ladder; to
see her cheerfully agreeable, to the neglect
ed wpmaa who does not know how te get
"1.1 J4
Wanderino Jem.
13
It is an established fact that
the only natural flavors in the
market are Dr. Price's" De
licious Flavoring Extracts.
Each flavor is made from the
acquainted, to the tactless unpopular
woman who has hardly a friend left," to the
tiresome woman whom most persons mildly
snub; and to note that she is courteous and
gentle to the woman who is under a social
cloud which may yet pass away and leavo
her unshadowed.
Such a woman did a charming thing at an
A. Ja-pawtr Idea.
artists reception the other day. A lady en
tered, did not see her host and hostess or
anyone whom she knew well, hesitated in
embarassment for a moment, and then ap
proached a group of ladies and gentlemen
whom she knew slightly. She spoke to
them: was answered curtly; she tried once
more, and after a cruelly brusque reply the
enHre group turned away from her.
It was a trying moment, but rescue waJ
at hand. The most beautiful and most aris
tocratic woman present had seen and heard.
She hurried across the room.
"How do you do, Mrs. ?" she ?aid
distinctly. "I fhought yon would be here
to-day. Did you pas a pleasant summer?
At Bar Harbor? Ah. then 1 hope you wilt
come and sec me and tell me all about it I
am at home to my friends from 5 to 6 every
afternoon, you know."
It was perfectly done. The snobbish lit
tle group, not one of whom had ever re
ceived an invitation from her. heard and
"understood, and some of them had the grace
to blush.
"Of course," she said to an intimate
friend who told her afterward it was "mag
nificent," "one couM not blame those peo
ple if they did regret in their hearts having
to accept advances from JIr3. . But it
was selfish and heartless to put herin such
a mortilyirfg position. She had done noth
ing to justifv that Thev simply did not
like her. I never specially liked her my
self, to tell you the truth, and under ordiii-
fcy,
Flis.'x'
cucords (md Shield.
ary circumstances I shoi'ld not have asked
her to visit me. But in common charity no
woman should see such cruel u ikimlness
and sit calmly bv!"
"And et," 'her friend rcflccW. "how
many did'.'" Aloud she said: 'Wcl', mv
dear, 'the quality of merer i- not strained."
and socially speaking 'tis'irig'itie't in the
mightiest; and become-, the throned mon
arch' that's you ot, course 'better than
hisciown." " Jure L Cuss.
ASTH4CHAN HOSBjriES Z22
Why Cell los-in Canno'. 3 th Be.-trt rnl
Stnff tYHhrn-. JtrIcVrin.
Do women knowwhv it-istlnt Astra-hii,
or Persian lamb n it j o.'tenest called
nowadays, costs so much? -vies C-l:a Logan.
It isn't b:cause in aid of itself it is special
ly beautiful or specibllr lieconing, lor it ii
neither. 'It is the cost of life that they are
paying for.
just as the female i absnl t ve b'rth
to the kid 'he is killed and the skin stripped
from the unborn, but often Iivii:- little one.
This inhuman practice is owing to the fact
that onlr in this way can the soft, finesilki
ness of the fur be preened. After birth it
becomes harsh and wiry. Twh lives have
to be taken to get one small skin, aid
this is what makes astrachan so dear. This,
too, is why I shudder when I see a woman
wearing an astrachan coat or cae.
Is a fashion w.orth following that is so
prodigal qt life as this? It is worse than
the slaughter of seals and birds for fashion's
sake, and the slow torture ot the gooso
for the pate de .foi gras that make the
epicure happy. And these are bad enough.
No other liniment is like Salvation Oil.
It stands alone a superior articl 25
centa
wr.-
FINE WALL
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541 WOOD STREET 541
BAKE
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lEpwf
rSi feST3ite'rT
BUILDING. Jj
Telephone 1324., jfl
1
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fr41r.
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