msms m&T PTTTSBtrEG. -DISPATCH' SUlTOAYRlWMir DESIGNS IN SILKS. The FaTorite Fabric of China and Japan an Will Be in Great Demand for the Warm Weather. ' SUGGESTIONS AS TO PURCHASES. Lessons to Be learned From the Costumes of the Fair Creatures Who Grace the Orient BPEDfG FEOCKS FOE THE MISSIS. Xbtj Mnst Eire Rent? of Cotton Cowns and the Simpler TnmoM the Better. lUKllIUr TOE TOT DISPATCH.! HE fabric called In differently Japanese, Chinese and India silk, will form an im portant part of the warm weather text ures. It has the ad vantage of being thin, jet of sufficient sub stance for common wear; soft yielding and beautiful in qual ity, yet at the same time durable. The bulk of the im port a t i ons come from China and Japan, and India silk is almost a myth, fo little of it is made and so little sold. Choice in the market lies practically be tween the products of China and Japan, about nine-tenths being from China. The difference between these two is not seen by the casual observer. The weave of Japan is more smooth, and even and soft in qual ity, and much more beautifuL They wear about equally well, and there is no perceiv able difference in the price", the range in both being from SO cents to S3, the latter price being for an extraordinary quality, a yard wide. The qualities recommended Fashionably Hade Up. cost between 75 cents and $1 SO. The usual width is 25 inches. India silk is the finest of alL America Hasn't Equaled It Yet. There is an American imitation of these silks, the texture ot which, so far as I have seen it, has not the soft quality of the East ern fabrics, but is wiry. It is three inches narrower, and of about the same price. These Japanese silks as we may call them all, since they all are classed under one head are figured. The -character of the figures is an important matter for con sideration, and in choosing a flowered fabri: the laws of decoration should be borne in mind. The figures on dress fabrics should not be imitations, with perspective eflect and natural color, but they should be flat and conventional, or of natural forms analyzed and their decorative elements alone retained. A decortion should not be a picture. A picture on a garment attracts the eye from the wearer, asking attention to itself, which is disrespectful and demeaning. Moreover, a repetition of the same picture at intervals over a surface is absurd and monotonous. Yet a large proportion of the figures on silks offered lor sale are pictures The law of .iua nation. of flowers, with shadins, coloring and de tails aimed at imitations of nature. A good decoration modestly embellishes the texture and does not seem to hide it The first all-over pattern, as I have before suggested, probably had its origin in the unevenness of texture in hand weaving. The accidental roughness, or changes in color, developed into intentional ones at regular intervals. To good decorations be long arrangements of broken lines, dots, and all patterns derived from flowers that are not imitative; also plaids and stripes, which are but a variation of warp and woof. Silks Printed In France. If you will look at Japanese and Chinese designs they will teach you how far nature can be suggested in a decoration, and what sort -of figures on your silk you should choose. In them nature is interpreted, but not imitated. A good Illustration is found In a Japanese drawing of a chrysanthemum flower, or a sun-disk behind flowing lines that may suggest atmosphere or water. "How is it," you will ak, "that the Chinese and Japanese silks in the market are covered with the natural flower forms condensed?" They are very lareelr so covered, or I should not be advising as to choice. The explanation is full of signifi cance. Here it is. as made by leading im porters. American women will not buy Japanese or any other good design! They do not understand what a good decoration is, and make the mistake of valuing it in proportion as it looks like a picture. And the reason they can find these abominations H T on Eastern silks is because these silks are not printed in China and Japan St all, hut are sent out from those countries plain and are printed in France. This is a device of the dealers, who cannot afford to carry goods that do not sell. Here the silks are printed to the order of all markets. It is not the dealers' fault if a large part of the importations are of bad de signs, or that Jn general 'the worst designs are on the cheaper grades. Artistic pat terns cost no more than ugly ones. It is the fault of the American women 'njlio ask tor them. A JTew York importer brought here some pieces ot China crape, magnifi cenllv flowered. Tliev cost him $1 50 a Adapted to French Ideas. yard. He thought they would be bought tor house robe. But after two year he Sold them to a country dealer for 60 cents a yard. It is now explained why the Oriental silks in the Japanese and other stores do not look in the least Oriental. The Styles to Be Avoided. Do not understand that all the designs in the market are bad. I am only warning you what not to buy. There are very beautiful silks in the spring importations, but you must know how to select Look first at the contrast of colors to see whether that is agreeable; consider next the form of design. See that it merely breaks the surface agree ably without obtruding itseu as a iiEeness nf nnvthinsr. Above all avoid the small flower snrics showing several colors. They are bad because their colors only contrast among themselves to show off the sprig. Among good designs now to be had are those whose ground and figure are of two tints of the same color, as light heliotrope on dark; single colors on black and on white grounds; also mixtures ot black and white, and of white on colored prounds. Choose those figures that make a clear-cut outline sirainst the eround. and reiect the fine sprays that straggle over much surface, for thev cut up and injure the beauty of the texture without giving the effect of positive color contrast, cheapen the fabric, and are without character or elegance. The change able grounds now in vogue are an Easter idea. A verv elegant one has the figure, a flower form" blocked out in straight lines, changeable on dark ground. Bed and blue shift over these spaces as rose clouds shift nlnncr the horizon, sueeestinjr, in its inex pensive fabric, the variety and mystery; of the SCy. umers are cuaugcauic uu uuc eiuo and show only one of the colors on the other, an eflect seen'heretofore only in snrahs. A beautiful one of pink and pale green, broken with clusters of white dots, is wholly green Katiie Silk Design. on the reverse side. And the cost of all this is f 1 25 a yard. What the Modistes Sncgesr. These silks will be -fashionably made up, the modistes say, with round waists varied by yokes and surplice crossings, wide belts, full sleeves confined in one or more puffs, bell skirts. The trimmings will be ribbons of velvet, moire or satin, which will make skirt borders and belts, collars, bracelets; laces black and white that' will 'make vokes; sleeve and skirt ruffles and jacket fronts sleeveless jackets of passementerie will also be a garnish for dressoccasons. But how meager this prorgamme seems when are considered the fabric's possibili ties? If all its beauty should be developed passementeries and ribbons and all other applied trimmings would be only an imper tinence. It cannot be but that the fashion makers will relent This silk should not be laid smooth over the waist, but should wrinkle and fold and show its quality. This the round waist will permit Also the smooth garment suggests a strain, to which a thin texture should not be put It is a pity that the stirt in vogue allows no folds about the hips. Worth has lately given out a design for a skirt to be side plaited all the way round, but what significance maybe in it is uncertain. An other reason why it should not follow smoothly the form is because jt is figured. A figured garment should either be loose or lie in folds. Then the figures vary with each new pose, half hide, half disclose the form, and give all the charm of variety. On the smoothly fitting1 garment a repeating pattern merely suggests a tattoo. The in stinct which leads women to choose floweret? fabrics lor loose honse robes is a true one. The loose gowns of the Chinese and Japan ese w-omen derive their beauty largely lrom 'their flowered surfaces. What Japanese Women Teach. In the dress of Japanese women there is illustrated a principle of art that should open up a world ot suggestion to us in making up these flowered silks. I refer to the law of alteration. It calls in painting for a dark tree trunk against a light distance, and in Japanese decoration it is illustrated by a bamboo stalk beginning light against a dark ground, and changing abruptly to dark against a light ground. Japanese dress owes much of its charms to the observation of this law. Instead of making the costume throughout of one ground, monotonously, as we do, one part will be 'dark on a fight ground and another light on a "dark ground; and thus without any applied trimmings, the inner garment, the outer one, the sash and the linings are all varied, and all com bine to make a harmonious and charming tout ensemble. Such alterations enrich -infinitely the dress, and in these silks lie great possi bilities in this direction. But remember, if you will experiment, that the contrasts should not be in trimmings or inconse qnential parts, but in the constructive por tions, such as the linings or the sash. Some Sellable Combination. Among silks likely to be found for com binations there might be proposed a blue ground and white figures with a white ground blue figures. An alternation ot residu green and white might be exquisite. The same figure should he on both eronnds.. 4 THE TABLE, THE BOUDOIR, HOME DECORATIONS If it cannot be found something may be done if the colors match; or one may be a plain ground, matching the figure of the other, though this is less effective and not uncommonly seen. The rainbow stripes on whije and-on black grounds, one of t the novelties of the season, could be combined with great "effect. A large proportion of the Japanese silks for spring nave black grounds. These are intended lor morning wear. The Japan ese women make use of black grounds, but not for an entire costume, only for a part of it, to add character to the effect of the whole. At least the linings and sash will be ot another gronndL A design lor a 'demi-dress of Japanese silk, alter a French idea, has a low-necked waist- gathered, and. over it a fitted velvet jacket, of the same color as the figure in the silk, and lined with the silk. It is cut long, a la Bussie, and is high at back and open down the front, and has a ribbon belt. Ada Bache-Conx. SPRING DRESSMAKING. Cotton Frooka for the Misses How to Be lieve Tonne Girls of the, Feeling or Awkwardness The Goods That Are Offered The Trimmings. rwarrox fob tot dispatoh.i The term, "a miss,' ia applied to girls' between 12 and 16 years of age, whloh is a most awkward time for them in feeling and appearance. Much of the latter may be avoided by dressing them in a becoming manner, according to the needs of the figure. Do not aim at straight outlines on a slender weedy girl, and as, carefully avoid fussy trimmings- on a roly-poly figure. "The eternal fitness" of all things is to be studied when dressing a girl of 14 as well as one of 24. Give young girls plenty of cotton dresses I for summer wear and trim them in a simple manner, that a clean one may not become a luxury. From the ginghams, cambrics, satines, crepons, -embroidered flouncings, white goods fend cordings a large variety may be selected in shades and combinations of blue, tan, pink, gray and red, with black and white lines appearing prominently. A Beauty From Gingham. Embroidery or fancy cotton, braid Is the prettiest of all trimming. A blue and white striped Sea Island gingham has a full round skirt, with a five-inch hem and most of the gathers massed at the back. The round waist tucks beneath the skirt belt, whichmay be of embroidery. A small yoke of embroidery forming a point on either side, trims the front beneath the col lar of edging, and the skirt sleeves have narrow wristbands of insertion. This be comes very dressy if a belt, long bow in the back, bretelles and shoulder knots of blue satin ribbon are worn. The round waists fasten, back or front For a plump brunette a yellow and white crepon is made with a gathered skirt, sleeves full at the shoulders and a round waist 'The V collar, deep cuffs and pointed girdle are of Irish point lace, iter sienuer sister has her round waist trimmed with bretelle ruffles from the waist line to the shoulders, and wears a ribbon belt The bag seams are used for unlined waists, and the fastening is done-with small pearl buttons. The waists have only shoulder and under-arm seams, and are held to the figure by a drawing-string run through a casing stitched on the inside at the waist line. -. The Styles in Waists. Blouse waists are neatlv made of flowered cambric, and are worn with a canvas belt and gathered skirt A few waists are al ways seen fulled from the shoulders over a vest of embroidery, but the girdles and yokes have rather ousted this style. Jacket pieces of wide embroidery are still wom around the armhole, and jacket fronts edged with embroidery fall open over a yoke and girdle embroidery, as ladies will wear. Tucked round waists are in shirt style, with a yoke or box plaited back, the former prevailing: the front is in five box plaits. an inch' and a half wide, or two clusters on each side of three narrow tucks. These have a draw string, and are cut three inches below the waist line, as all round waists are, to prevent any pulling up. Shirt waists should not be trimmed with any embroid ery, and have a high or rolling collar, and wristbands or deep cuffs, iastening with two pearl buttons! At 12 years the skirt reaches nearly to the ankles, at 14 it touches the shoetops, and at 16 it is within three inches of the floor. Of course the growth as well as the age influences this length of skirts. The Sewing and the Trimming. Let machine sewing show prominently on cotton gowns, and let it be neatly done, for there is no excuse for crooked seams. White dresses ot lawn, dimity, nainsook, etc:, are trimmed with embroidery accesso ries in the shape described above. All skirts may be simply hemmed or finished with a gathered ruffle, four inches deep when done, sewed on with its oirn heading gathered twice, to make it set well, and cut across the goods on account of future wash ings, as. bias ruffles andiias-cut plaids' will pnil'askew When ironed. Satin and.moiro ribbons are to he much From Sew Cotton Goods. worn with white frocks, as belts ending in long bows at the back, or on a slender girl, a belt commencing on each side of the outer front under a rosette, ia very pretty, com bined with bretelles to.the shoulders, where there are also rosettes. Nos. 7, 9 and 12 ribbons are used. The girdles worn are pointed at the lower end, and either straight above or pointed, tapering off at the back to the width of an ordinary belt. The front part should be bound three times and lined; it may hook at the back or left side. ' TfrM-ivrA jl HoorzB. THE DIFFERENCE IN SILKS. An Expert Tells Why One Costs a Dollar and Another Ten Dollars a Yard The Cotton Filling; Tricks of the Trade Advice to Bayers. ' , rwBimN fob tot pisr atch.1 - Some silks sell for $1 a yard; some others sell for 510. "Why is there this difference? If you were to find a man who knew just how silk was manufactured, as I did not long ago, he would probably tell you,' as this man did me, that two things go To make up the cost of silk the quality of the silk thread that goes into it, and the amount of that silk. -' The raw silk as It comes' from the co coons is of very different kinds. Some of it is long and even and smooth, while infer ior qualities are rough and brittle and in short lengths. The poor qualities do not stand wear, of course, so well as the best ones do, , and are not worth so much money; these, therefore, are utilized for the cheaper grades of silk. The long glossy threads are what go into the best silks, and because in these beauty is sought before cheapness, a greater rm Bordt amount of silk thread is put into a yard that is, as we say, the si!k is heavier. Filling With Cotton and IJnen. Another way in which the expense of a silk is decided is by the quality of the fill ing that is used in it It is no secret that a large number of the medium-priced silks are filled with cotton or with linen. This, of course, sives additional weight without commensurate expense. If the filling be at all silk, the price of the silk is largely in creased. One -firm of American manu facturers has recently adopted the plan of using the waste silk, that is, the short rough threads, for filling; this makes an all-silk fabric that will not turn brown as those that are filled with cotton, and yet is not very expensive. So far we have spoken only of plain silks. The cost of putting a brocaded figure to a plain background varies greatly with the material used for the brocade, the number of colors used in the figure and the elabora tion of the pattern. The simplest brocaded figure can be added to a piece of silk at a cost of about IS cents a yard; it may "add 20 times that sum to the cost ot a yard since it may be of silver or gold thread and he heavily jewelled. To the natural query, "How may a woman be sure of getting a good piece of silk when she is buying?" this JIan-"Who-Knows answered, "She can't" Some of the Trade Tricks. "The experts are not always able to tell, and even the manufacturers are often hon estly puzzled as to why a piece of silk doesen t wear well. By twisting the piece of silk about her finger and then smoothing it out, a buyer can tell something about it If it smooths out without creases, it is more likely to wear well than not By touching a match to a small bit of it she can tell if there is cotton in it If it is all silk, it will burn with difficulty; if there is cot ton in it, it will light readily. But the best way a woman can do is to pick out a shop that has a reputation tor honesty in silks and everything else, and I then take the salesman's word for it He is. much more likely to know a good silk than she, and can make -her believe a very dis honest piece is remarkably good if he chooses. No woman can be half way up in the tricks of the trade. There are more ways of cheating at silks than there are at cards. "Why, an expert has to carry a whole apothecary's shop in his pocket to make his test, and a powerful magnet be sides, because one of the most common tricks of manufacturers is to load up the silk in the dye, with iron filings or lead dust, to increase the weight Soapstone, gum arabio and rosin are also common adulterations in the process of manufact ure." All of this goes to show that in this "glad, bad, mad,, sad," world of ours, you can never tell what people will thine of next Helen "Wattjsbsos'. A MAN WHO BAKES BREAD. Edward Atkinson Tells How He Grappled With the Problem He Got a Mechani cal Kneaaer After the First Effort Science of the Operation. CWKITTEX FOB THS DISPATCH. J The problem with which I first under took to grapple, and I use the word "grapple" in a true sepse, ,was . the prob lem of making good bread at home instead of buying poor bread of a baker. Bread making is by most people considered one of the mysteries. There is no mystery about it. My own experience proved to me that it took a good deal of muscle and not much mind when worked in the ordi nary way of grappling. I first applied my mind to the theory' of bread, which is to mix with flour and water some yeast, or some kind of baking powder which, when subjected to a certain degree of heat, will generate carbonic acid gas that will work up into the dough and make bubbly places in it Not having a special fancy for baking powders, although they are excellent in their place, I deter mined to try my hand In grappling or otherwise kneading the dough. I found it very good exercise for a sedentary per son: the objectionable feature to my own mind was that it tended to perspiration. A. Mechanical Bread Kneader. That reminds me of the little story of what happened the other day. An old gen tleman came to my cooking-laboratory, at my office. CI call it a laboratory, because. wUh if we called it a kitchen, from which the customary odors of cooking wonld emanate, the other tenants in the office building might object In this laboratory we elabor ate a good dinner every day for about 20 persons wno are empioyea in tne Dimness, .which is under my supervision. Being a laboratory no objection has been taken to its existence.) This old gentleman was very much delighted with a mechanical bread kneader that we use in preparing the dough for a bread raiser. He told me that a few days before he had taken his little grandson to a baker's. A week later the small boy asked him to take him again. "What for?" was the question, to which the little boy answered, "I want to see that fat man who was washing bis hands in the' brown bread. He gave me a cooky." Since we adopted the mechanical kneader our cooks do not "wash their hands" any more in the bread pan. The work of knead ing is only for the purpose of mixing yeast throughout the mass of flour in preparation for the application ot heat, and it can be done more thoroughly with a good bread kneader than by hand. In the ordinary method of raising bread, the pan is set here and there where it may be subject to the moderate degree of heat required for generating the growth of the yeast plant, and through that diffusing .the carbonic acid gas in the mass. How uncer tain that method is every housekeeper well knows. Balsingjn Forty-Five Minutes. There is a scientific bread-raiser in which a moist or humid heat at 99 Fahrenheit may be established and maintained without variation. When the dough is subjected to this measured degree of heat it is raised, ready to be transferred from the large pan to the baking pans, in three hours and a half. Being thus transferred, the baking pans are again put into the bread raiser for 20 minutes. In exactly four hours from the time of beginning, the sponge, so-called, is ready for the oven. It is as necessary to subiectthis snoncre in the oven to the trne and measured degree of heat after it has been raised as it is in order to raise it A heat of 500 to 350" F. serves this pur pose. At that temperature the bread is cooked more slowly than in the oven of the iron stove' but it is also cooked more thor oughly. The main substance of bread is carbon aceous material. All forms of carbon are non-conductors of heat; consequently when a high heat is applied to the dough in the' bread pan it quickly converts the outerpart into a hardened crust This forms an ef fectual non-conductor, and if the high de gree of heat in a ventilated oven is con tinued until the middle of the loaf is thor oughly cooked, it may burn the crust In any event it dries it and hardens it unless great care is taken in the regulation of the service. But when the dough, raised to the right point, is subjected to a heat of 300 to 350 F. in an oven which is not venti lated, and in which the bread is surrounded by the humidity developed from itself in the process of cooking, the crust forms slowly; that formation of crust being a partial change of the outer surface of starch into dextrine or grape sugar, developing a sweet and nutty flavor The Time Beqnired to Bake. When the dough is thus subjected to the moderate and humid degree ot heat, it mav be continued ior almost any length of time. But at the end of about two hours the bread will be cooked to the very center. If the process of cooking is con tinued longer than is absolutely necessary, ft crust bait an inch in thickness will be made, and if continued long enough the whole loaf will be affected; the color will become tawny and the nutty flavor will pervade both crust and crumb. Now when bread is hardened on the out side and is not cooked at the core, the mid dle parts are indigestible; the yeast plant or ferment is not destroyed. Such bread Is also subject to becoming mouldy or to being dried up very rapidly; while bread, which has been cooked slowly in the manner de scribed, will keep in what may be called a fresh condition for many days. At the same time any person with good digestion caa cat, ib wim impunity on me nrsi aay. It is therefore a perfectly simple matter for anyone, who can read and is capable of learning distinct rules, to make the very best of bread, provided they supply them selves with the best 'material and facilities. It may be done in the household with the very least expenditure of force or time. For instance, any person who is obliged to go ont for an afternoon's work, but who has one honr for dinner, may employ the last 10 or 15 minutes of the hour in working the dough with the mechanical kneader, plac ing it in the bread-raiser and adjusting the heat of the lamps so that it may be raised either in Zy2 or four hours. Economizing to he Limit In that interval it requires no attention. Returning in four hours, the bread pans may be placed in the oven, and if the lamp is needed to light the household for the evening work, both oven and lamp can be set upon the work-table so that the bread may be baked in the two evening hours while the ordinary evening work of the household is going on. There are many varieties of bread which can be made' in this way that cannot be made by the ordinary methods. Very light and nutritious bread may be made from rye meal. This, however, requires hand knead ing, the only wheat flour being that with which the hands are dusted in working up the rve meal into dough. The most nutritious bread that can be made in any way can also be made by this slow method; by mixing one-half oat meal with one-half white flour or one-half graham flour, knead ing it thoroughly, raising it effectually, and baking it somewhat longer than is required in the preparation of white bread a very perfect loaf is obtained if no charge is made against the bread for the time re quired in working up the materials; the very best quality oil bread can now be made from flour costing 6 50 per barrel, at the rate of 290 pounds of bread to the barrel of flour: to this sum we may add 75 cents for the cost of the salt, the yeast cakes, and the oil used in the baking, making (7 25; which gives the cost of the bread at 1i cents per pound. If any one desires to compare this with the price of bakers' bread in the shops. .the comparison can be readily made. .fciDWAED atkhtsov. AS OMENTAL PILLOW. Brilliant Bit of Decoration That Is Cheap ' and Easily Made. The pillow of which the illustration In black and white can give but a slight sug gestion is Oriental in both color and treat ment The body of the cover Is old blue surah satteen and in that delightful back ground the embroidered lace of the center makes a striking offect The square is of heavy linen lace, pale ecru in tone, and has its pattern outlined with genuine Turkish gold. The scollops, which finish the edge, are closely button-holed and all the central design is couched. The satin shows through the openings of the lace and the shimmer of its surface combines with the gold to make a brilliant bit of decoration. FTrsKiTUBK upholstered and repaired. Hattos & Kebnax. 33 Water street ..------ . a AND HYGIENE. THE USES OF THE ORANGE. Instructions From a Woman Who Know the Fruit In Ira Balmy Home A Nice Table Decoration for a Dollar Juices, lees and Perfumes. CWBTTTXjr FOB THE PISPATCBT.1 When oranges are plentiful they are usually cheap, and the delicious "golden apple" can be utilized in various forms, each more delicate than the other. In the far South where the fruit grows in luxuri ous abundance a confection is made of the odorous, creamy petals of the orange blos som. Myriads of the tiny flowers fall of themselves from the loaded trees; others are gathered without stint, care being taken to pull only the petals the tiny orange itself, not larger than a pea, is left upon the stem. The blossoms are dipped in clean syrup and drained, then packed lightly in sugar; these little confections are equal to French can died violets or rose leaves. A confectioner will deplete your purse for a small pyramid of candied orange; you can prepare it yourself at small cost A syrup is made of two pounds of cut loaf sugar boiled in one pint of water, with the unbeaten white of an egg stirred in; boil five minutes, skim thoroughly, then boil again until nearly ready to candy. Pre viously yon will have selected juicy, sweet oranges, the larger the better, and peeled' tnem, careiuiiy removing every vestige of the white pith; you have separated them into sections and with a pointed penknife extracted the seeds without cutting the skin more than you could avoid. Now yon lay each section in the hot not boiling syrup, dip a second and third time to form a thick coating of clear candy; set in a cool place to harden, the pieces not touching one another. Serving Them Ornamentally. When thus prepared the candied slices can be piled on any pretty glass dish. If a pyramid is desired, make a large circle for the bottom, letting the slices touch, then pile evenly. This should be done while the candied covering is still soft The com pleted pyramid can be sprinkled with tiny confitures of varied colors, which stick Baskets Ready to Bene. where they falL Any pretty ornament finishes the top. For a decoration, nothing can be mora effective than a dozen orange basKets. The description may seem to call for very fnssy work, but it is not really troublesome, and the work is highly satisfactory. The baskets are cut from the whole orange, which should be the large Florida; a very sharp knife is necessary. First make a cut across the stem end, escaping the whole of the stem, cutting nearly half way through the fruit; another cut of the same depth is made one-half inch from the first Turn the orange and make an incision at, right angles from the first cut, thus detach-' ing a piece like a small quarter; turn the fruit again and do the same on the opposite side, keeping these cuts on an exact level. This makes a basket with the handle intact The pulp, juice, seeds and all the pith mnst be carefully scooped from the inside it is best to loosen it first with a spoon from the rind, without piercing the skin any where. The baskets can be laid in ice water to slightly harden. Serving Jel ly In Baskets. A firm jelly is made of the juice, allowing one box of gelatine to one dozen oranges. The gelatine is set to soak for an hour and a half, with enough juice to coyer it; the bowl is then set In boiling water until the gela tine is dissolved; the rest of the juice sugar to taste, and a wine glass of curacoa cordial added. Strain through coarse muslin, fill the baskets and set in a cold place. When ready to serve tie a bow of baby ribbon of any harmonizing tint on the handle of each basket; set the baskets either in individual saucers or altogether on a low, round dish. By taking the small amount of trouble necessary to prepare this dainty fancy, one secures a beautiful and attractive ornament at .less than $1; the caterer will charge tour times the amount As it is only for the season when oranges, are plentiful that these hints are intended, you may be urged to try orange syrup. The season of plenty at the North is, I believe, from December to April. Thin-skinned fruit is the best, as it is juiciest Squeeze Bow to Cut the Fruit. all the pulp, juice, etc., through a sieve; al low i pounds or powdered sugar to each pint of juice; grate a teaspoonfnl of the thin yellow rind and add the juice of one lemon. Boil a' quarter of an hour, skim ming as long as any scum rises. Take from the fire, strain and bottle, corking, tightly. When you hare once had a suppjy of this syrup for use you will wonder why you have ever done without it The Uses of the Syrnp. Two tablespoonfuls mixed with a quarter of a pound of creamed butter makes a deli cious sauce for plum or plain butter pud ding. A glass of iced water into which a tablespooniul of the syrup has been stirred becomes nectar of the gods in summer. A few drops imparts a delicious flavor to cus tards. It is invaluable in the sickroom, and can be freely given to children who are teething; as orange juice is thought to be almost a specific in bowel troubles. The skin, or peel, of the orange is as cap able of usefulness as the juice. Boil one pound until tender; chop fine; to one pint of water in which the skins were boiled'add three pounds of brown sugar and the chopped peel. Boil together until very thick, pack into wide-mouthed jars and use the mixture ior flavoring. It is delicious for cakes. An orange salad for breakfast will induce an appetite, and is wonderfully refreshing. For this select very juicy oranges; peel and slice four very thin. Sift powdered sugar over each layer as they are placed in the glass salad plate; set in a cool place for an hour or two. Occasionally baste with the juices that form. Some prefer the rind left on oranges when served thus, claiming a richer flavor. A Delicate Orange Ice. Orange sherbet is easily prepared and is a favorite ice. For this grate tne rinds of four oranges; soak the nnd for ten minutes in boiling water; strain a pint of the water upon a pound of cut loaf sugar; when dis solved, add the juice of-the oranges and a gill of boiling water; when' cold freeze partly, then add the stiffly beaten whites of two eggs; put into a mold and set in cracked ice to harden. , A flavoring extract is simply made by pouring one pint of rectified spirits of wine over as much shredded orange peel as it will cover. The fruit should first be washed and the peel freed from as much jn we inner piui as .possidid. vors ugnuv, I . . keep in a dark, dry place and you will hare genuine orange essence. A delicate yet penetrating- ptrfome, like that of the blossom itself, Is made by the women of the South, whose homes lie amid the sunny orange groves. They fill cut glass scent bottles with the odorous pgtals, as full as possible; they then pour ia pure spirit, adding more flWers as those used shrink. A concentrated perfume is the re sult, costing nothing except for the spirit? it is as delightful, though not so lasting, aj the attar ot roses. Emma L McliAGAjr. THE HBBABY TABLS. A Pretty leather Mat Is the Proper Thing to Put on Top or It. The correct library table must be of polished-wood, matching or harmonizing with the room's fittings, and preferably of a darker tone. It should have brass mount ings, too, and clean feet of either wood or metal. Size and in some measure shape must be determined by its environments, but it must not be so big as to have bnt a cramped space round about it, nor so little as to seem oppressed with the weight of a lamp or half a dozen books. Imperatively it must not have a oover 10 swathe its comeliness and de stroy its clear lines. Instead put on top of it one of the handsome new leather table mats. This material is suede-calf colored to match the rest of the furnishing. The shape is oblong say 15 by 32 inches. The border is sometimes a very handsome metal gimp, but the one illustrated had a border of stamped open work underlaid with the lighter suede that formed the ap plique in one corner. The guard was a. rich tawny chestnut, the ornaments very pale yellowish tan, outlined with fine gold cord. It is a scroll pattern, bold and clear cut, and runs diagonally across one end. The other is left perlectly plain. Lay the square on top your table in any position that pleases you, so it does not droop over an edge, then set your lamp, a bowl of flow ers or smoking set or inkstand upon the plain part AH AEHSTIO WASDH0BS. The Keoessary Article Transformed Into a Thing or Beauty. AIT corners are troublesome because It is difficult to fill them with furniture that is at once artistic, appropriate and useful, but the comers of sleeping rooms present speolal difficulties. There is little furniture that is either necessary or best in a bed room. And when one of the few necessary pieces can be made to fill a corner, the happiest eflect is produced. A little while ago, a voting architect, who had. a room without closets, had to have a wardrobe put into his room. Now a wardrobe was to his artutio sonl, as it ia to many ethers, a thing abhorrent, and he pleaded to be allowed to mitigate his suf ferings as much as possible, by having his own idea of what a wardrobe might be, carried into effect And he was. The re sult is given above. It is of plain oak and in each of the doors mirrors were set, so that the .worthy designer might view his irreproachable person from various angles while dressing. And all the comfort he got out of it, which he declared to be great ce certainly deserved, because the wardrobe was all that a wardrobe should be artistlo convenient and out of the way. THE HOTJSEKEEPIBS' TEEASTTSH. How a Uttle Woman Takes Care of Her China and Silver Ware. A woman who has pretty china and who deserves to have it because she knows how to take care of it, has a way of guarding against scratches and breaking in her ware by making dozens of mats of pinked cotton flannel which she uses everywhere in her china closet Every plate, when it is piled away in the closet, has one of those soft mats laid upon it; every saucer and small flat dish has a mat laid over it before an other is laid upon it; mats are laid over the tops of tureens before the covers are set on them and the cups and tumblers, instead of being piled upon each other, are set singly on the shelves. Quite as careful is the way she puts her silver away. There is a lot of it and it's all solid, so in the logical way of many women she puts it safely away in a big Nuremburg chest and uses plated ware instead. But the way in which she packs it is an art of itself. There are bags great and small of cotton flannel, with draw strings, into which the larger pieces are slipped; but these are not uncommon among careful housekeepers. It is her pockets lorthe small pieces that command respectful' ad miration. The knives, forks and spoons are not packed away in families, but each one has its own apartment She doubles a large piece of cotton flannel, sews it up ex cept on one side, and then stitches it into a dozen little compartments, one for each piece. When these are carefully slipped into their places she rolls the pocket to gether ahd ties it with tape strings, like an old-fashioned needle case. The last touch of fastidiousness in the care of her china closet is the covering which she permits herself for the shelves instead ot the paper commonly used. These covets are made of heavy white linen, ex actly fitted to each shelf, and with a frill of heavy linen lace hanging over the edge. Her china closet is a place to delight the souls of other women, if it doesn't fire them with envy. Excursion to TXtrw Orleans, La, and Mobile, Ala., on Acconnt Mardl-Qras. The Queen and Cresent route will sell tickets, Cincinnati to New Orleans, La., and Mobile, Ala., and return, at one fare for the round trip, on February 26, 27 and 29, ac count llardi-Gras, which begins at points above on March 1. The Queen and Crescent route is running solid vestibuled trains from Cincinnati to New Orleans without change. Ask your ticket agent for tickets reading . vi me n, os v route, BU TA fej .ft Hit' HIwi ill k jflHHSsisisHisI' "obbbbbbbsbbbbbbbSbbs THE FOE OF BEAUTY. Shirley Dare Writes to the Women Who Worry Abont'Wrinkles. THE TREATMENT BY HOT STEAM. Its Moderate Use idvised bnt Careful liv ing Is Much letter. TtHIT TO DO AFTES A BIS DAHCB umim tor raj dispatch:! With my mail from readers of THE DIS PATCH" come many energetic protests against "the chief foe of women's beauty, wrinkles." They are from young women, not much over 30, "but carehas brought them there." One has "too many lines be tween her eyes," forgetting the old saying that women's brows must have a separate wrinkle for each child she brings up. Another lives, by her account, most orderly and healthfully, with "early rising, early sleeping, no fat, greasy er canned food, wine or condiments, her health excellent, save from the torture of headache every week or two, which keeps her two or three days in bed." As If that could be called health! No wonder her eyes on awakening "looked lined about the lids, and neuralgia pains have begun to turn her dark hair i gray. Wrinkles are the index of nervous condi tion. Upright lines between the eyes indi cate mental trouble, thought, care or temper more than physical ilL Fine netted lines about the eyes denote nervous exhaustion, and the depression which follows over stimulus. Women are apt to get them from living and sleeping in close hot rooms. "Oh, but my rooms are not close," they say with wonder. "I air them regularly every dayl" The last scientific writer on the mat. ter savs the air in our rooms should be changed three times every hour. The Fhyslology or Wrinkles. The skin owes its beauty to the nerves which control the fine invisible blood ves sels of the surface, whose work lends glow and transparency to the face. The nerves in turn owe their sanity to the air which, noxious or pure, is our cmef nutrient. In haled by gallons hourly. When the nerves are deadened with close air, the fine muscles lose their tone, the tissue of the face shrinks and these shrinkages become wrinkles. At first they are fugitive; a week's watching may write the face over with crosshatchinz of fine lines, and another week ot rest will restore loit tissue, fat and fluids to fill the spaces and smooth the face again. I have seen this miracle wrouebt in well-known faces so often I am convinced stationary wrinkles are only due to habitual neglect ox good living. Steaming the face is the fashionable treat ment to remove wrinkles, but it is an idea of American adoption, if not original. French specialists deprecate steaming; they say that it makes wrinkles worse when the practice is suspended, and claim it causes falling of eyelashes and eyebrows. The in tensely hot steaming may doubtless have this effect in certain states of the blood, and it must cause determination of blood to the face which is far from healthy. The remedy is to use vapor at milder heat, keeping up the process longer at a time. Half an hour over the vapor, however, is more time than most women can spend. What to Do After a Dance. Massage of the face is best self given, a firm, leisurely stroke just soft enough not to irritate. The best usage makes the movement in circular sweeps over ths wrinkles, not lifting the fingers much till one has finished on that particular line. Massage of the face should be smoothing, not leaving it flushed- and burning. To avert the wretched outwork of lines about the eyes, and baggy eyelids, observe the firecaution, never to sleep after a dance, or ate hours without bathing the face plenti. fully in veij warm water, and taking a few spoonfuls of something light, half .a cup of chocolate, or hot boulllion, eau sucre. rich and syrupy, or a lemonade, with or without a fresh beaten eez. Three spoonfuls of suoh. refreshments will take off the horrible ex haustion which presents its accounts on waking. A cup of hot water with one drop oil of cinnamon, no more,ls a famous restor ative, especially In heart weakness, after late hours. Shxexet Dabs. Largest in the World. In the department of flrrosv ing extracts, the Price Flz yoring Extract Co. has ths largest and' most completely equipped laboratory in the 'World. Thousands of pounds of the true Mexican Vanilla Beans are consumed every year ia Dr. Price's Flavoring Extract of Vanllhu This im-. mense business is accounted for by the purity and excel lence of their production, the result of effort a deter mined effort to make articles as perfect as can be made free from, hurtful material's, of the highest strength attain able, and at a price within the reach of all. With push honest success is achieved and held. FINE WALL PAPERS ftTrile & Gos, 541W00D STREET 541 BANK Ot COHJfEECE BTJXLDCTQ, Telephone ISM. t .-tVL a
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers