DEL SARTE IS HERE, a Alreadv Locked in a Mortal BtraggleJ With the English or Indian Tobacco Sign Style. THE- CHARACTERISTICS - OF -fAtJH. Graphic Pescription of an Znetnmtsr-Be- tten Tiro Tjpical Ixponenti of tte Innovations. BEIfa&TIOKIL 1IETHODS OF 1TT1CK. 1ST Spirited Ecrscenient the AggresLtre Frty EttlrM In Contelon. or TH.tHSrA.TOH.1 Sew York, Jan. 23. TTSTTeccntly re have been getting a good deal of Bel Sarte. We have had sporadic at tacks of Eocial crank iness from Oscar Wilde to Iforcross. but to serve some great and, as yet, un known purpose, ire have, as a Nation. with a big "S," survived them. There !e a faint relation between the late "Wilde craze nnd the Del Sarte craze. Both diseases have an affinity for the softer rex. That is to say, the Oscar "Wilde sun flower had for who hears any reverent re marks about it now? That satirical operetta, "Patience," wiped out the sunflower racket. Even its lackadaisical founder was forced to throw up his hand and finally abjured his pwn scheme, cut his hair, got married and began to dress and act like other people. Xot, however, before he had inoculated two continents with the virus of his tomfoolery. Who will relieve us of this new social craze? Henceforth wejire to have two extreme rules of fashionable social conduct. One, much affected by New Xork gentlemen of lashion, the London society rules of perfect repose; the other, the French cafe panto mimic, almost exclusively thus far the priv ilege of the ladies. What the English Stylo "Was. For the laEt few years the English "don't-ycu-know" and "doa't-know-anything" style of deportment has prevailed in New York. This English school presupposes an appearance of perpetual boredom a look of excessive stupidity, a stolid indifference to everybody and everything, a calmness of countenance that defies surprise or excite ment and betrays no human interest in -hort, an absolutely idealistic draw poker face. It may be aptly described as the In dian tobacco sign st ie. In a comparatively brief coarse of time we have succeeded in turning out an article of home manufacture quite equal if not superior in quality to the foreign importations. In fact, we may safely say that in numerous instances we have carried the tobacco sign style to such jierfection that the real wooden-headed In dian of commerce assumes a certain degree of intellectuality. Every student of human affairs has looked upon this remarkable development and mar veled. Nor is the English system confined to facial appearances it permenates the whole being. In its most perfect state one of these things is a mere automaton as to muscular movement. The shoulders are stooped, the elbows stick out and the knees knock in, nhiie the feet seem to be wander ing off dejectedly alone somewhere to die. It walks-os though it werovrheumatio and might fall down if you jostled it. Its clothes were made for something else. Not a gleam of intelligence is visible to the naked eye. It can talk, bul you wouldn't understand it. As a purely scientific question it is something very interesting nay, wonderful. And Iow Comes the Awakening. After having reached bv laborious de grees this extraordinary human develop ment it is a little rough on our civilization for the spirit of a dead Frenchman to come along and tell ns w e are all djad wrong. That is csactlv whnt the Del Sarte school teaches. This information naturally strikes New York society all of a heap. "What are going jo ao auout it Are we to con tinue to trot along Picadilly way? Or, rtall w e turn in Sor French monkey-shines? This is really embarrassing. And we were getting on so nice and comfortable like, too. The Enjlish tobacco sign style is the furthest thing on earth removed from the French monkey-hine "style. Imagine the two meeting in good society any society! But that is just what U going to happen unless ihe bottom is kicked out of Del Sarte. The latter is being embraced by the women of New York, who haven't much else to da Schools hae been established. Training the expression of an eyebrow, bringing cut the intelligence of a toenail, teaching the full significance of the funnybone, inculcating the esthetic gesture of the ears, unfolding the latent utility of a woman's jaw, developing the muscles, elongating and limbering the backbone, teaching the graces of the high kick. All 'of these and more, too. Madame Del Sarte has demon strated the power of a wink, or a blow, placed where it will do the most good. Society is puttins on gloves and trving that magic wink. The Frenchwoman has shown what can be accomplished by the rnbtle working of an eyebrow. The Del Sartenns .re woiking it for all it is worth. The Parisian kick how to kick a man down stairs gracefully delights feminine multi tudes. The rnc:iJi S-Jtcm Is Easier. At present there appears to be no break in tne rants of the English tobacco sign hchoo! because of Delsafteism. The latter app-aU to the more volatile sex. It will never prevail amoacr men against the fas cina ions ot the English wooden Indian style of social deportment. The English system has a firm foundation of fools. It is so easy .and natural for most society men to appear stupid and bored. It is more becoming. It saves a deal of trouble. Peo ple don't ask inconvenient 'questions. By constantly avoiding thought vou soon get so youdon't think. And if you don't think Von're not worried about anything. The lines don't come in your forehead and crows-feet never threaten your eves. The man who thinks dies early from overwork or dissipation, or both. . ?r Erand cue is indifference. Cultivate indifference. If vou should have ideas that actually force their company upon you, conceal them under the bed, or in words, or anywhere. Don't laugh at anything. That is the very worst of bad form. To laugh actually laugh right out will ruin you quicker in good societv than anything. jnis is the tobacco sign style, originally I brought oer from IonHnn ArA ,,;. C. I what the Del Sarteans desire with French monkey-shines. to supplant A Meeting to Startle the C,ort "V hen the unmarried male exponent of the Enslish Indian tobacco sign school meets the unmarried female exponent of the new French monkej-shine school of deport ment the effect is tremendous. The inter national tug ot war is nowhere. The male victim retires against the first wall and sets Its teetn hard and gazes into vacancy. The female discipleof Del Sarfe advances in two parallel columns, throwing out the eye brows to the right and left as flankers, and heaving in a few feeling shots from under cover of well-trained laches calculated to harass the enerov. ThcSgn recognizes the presence of the Del Sartean by slowly and deliberated fix ing a round bit of plate glas in its left eve. Del Sarteaa describes a semi-circle with the a.VnT 7 dkum. OT right foot, bringing the train within tup porting distance, and curving a highly-educated spinal column brings a jeweled fan upward with a corresponding sweep as if to momentarily conceal her intentions from the enemy. The latter (jives a faint indication of a de sire to manifest its knowledge of some thing, hut manages to suppress it Only a light twitching of the lip and the raising of the right hand to rearrange a misplaced hair of the mustache show that it is alive. Bow Spoken Language Is Extracted. Del Sartean plays both eyebrows on it without effect, pumps iu 1" different expres sions of intelligence from beneath the long lashes, and with a graceful gathering ot both arms and an inclination of the entire body, lays the weather at its feet. This elicits actual spoken language: "Y-yaas, deuced weatneb." And again absolute vacancy. Following up this successful break, fhe Del Sartean flashes a look heavenward, de scribes six quick circles in the air with her fan and shrugs her fair shoulders, while she daintily gathers in her draperies with her other hand. This is to indicate that it has been raining cats ana dogs, not to mention occasional pitchforks and omnibusses, all day, and that she has kept indoors and out of the wet in consequence. The Sign doesn't understand it of course, doesn't try to understand it. So she labels it. Then the Sign says 'Y-yaas" again and re sumes vacancy. This is a little discouraging, but the Del Sartean comes up to the scratch once more with nineidistinct facial plays designed to confuse and obfuscate the male opposition. The combination has previously been tried with moderate success, upon ahitching post. Its execution is not apparent on the Sign. Tries a Step From the JOutch Danes. ' She then tries the-lateral twist, familiar to careful observers ot the Nautch dance, coupled with a backward and upward mo tion of the head, the chin well advanced, the eyebrows running off at a tangent, the rightfoot being brought down with a firm expression and the hands clarped immedia tely over the bread-basket, as if in pain. This means that she doesn't care a tinker's outfit for either the weather or the Sign. And without labeling it she pivots on one heel, describes the usual train-snuiing Eigeon wing with the other foot, inclines er spinal colum and withdraws her forces from the field. The Sign shifts its weight on the other leg, breathes a long breath and presently seeks a B. & S. Meeting a chum at the same refreshment he says: "Awe-ole chap s'glad. Queeah quea chaw, that Miss Booth she, aire almost makes me laugh, don't yeknow." Vive la Del Sarte! Down with the British Indian tobacco sign systeml Put on your boxing gloves, take up your foils, girls, and give it to 'em in the neck. Marry 'era! Chaeles Tueodoee M.UEB2LT. THE FREE KINDERGARTEN. Paper From One of the rlonTrs of the TTork The Ideal Teacher Max O'Bell's Ideas of the American AVoman and the Reality. There are few large cities in which t there is not to he found one of these three things a free public kindergarten, a society or ganized for the purpose of establishing these kindergartens, or a great many per sons who are hoping to have such a society and such kindergartens by and by. More over, there are no cities, large or small, no towns, and few homes in which there are children, where the author of "Patsy," and "Timothy's Quest," and the "Birds' Christ mas Carol," is not known and read and loved. So when Mrs. "Wiggin, whose work in free kindergartens has been as inspiring and successful as her books, writes about kindergarten topics, there is a double inter est in reading. She it was who established the first kindergarten in San Francisco. In the following paper for The Dispatch she tells whv we need free kindergartens, and of the high requirements for the ideal teacher of little children. "We need the free or publickindergarten educationally as the vestibule to our school work; we need it as a philanthropic agent, leading the child gently into right habits of thought, speech and deed from the begin ning. We need it to help in the absorption and amalgamation of our foreign element; for the social training, the opportunity for co-operation, and the purely republican form of government in the kindergarten make it of great -.alue in the development of the citizen virtues, as well as those of the individual. "I cannot help thinking that if this side of Froebel's educational ideas were more insisted on throughout our common school system, we should be making better citizens and no worse scholars. But the heaviest of the work falls upon the kindergartener. That is why I am convinced that we should do everything that sympathy and honor and money can do to exalt that ofEce, so that women of good birth, breed ing, culture and genius should gravitate to it. She it is, w ho, living with the children, can make the kindergarten an integral part of the neighborhood, the cen ter of its best life. She it is, often, who inu'i noia nusiiana to wile, and parent to child; she it is, after all. who must inter pret the aims of the association translate its noble theories into practice. (Ay! and there's the rub!) She it is who must har monize great ideal principles with real and sometimes sorry conditions. A kindergarten ten association 6tands for certain things before the community. It is she alone who can prove the truth who can substantiate the argument who can show the facts. There is no more difficult vocation in the universe, and no more honorable or sacred one. If a kindergartener is looked npon.or paid, or treated as acurserv maid, her ranks will gradually be recruited from that source. "The ideal teacher of little children is not yet born; we have to struggle on as best we can without her. She needs the strength of a Vulcan, and the delicacy of an Ariel; she needs a child's heart, a woman's heart, a mother's heart in one. She needs clear judgment and rcady sympathy, strength of iii, ciiuai ciianciv, mcu insignt, tne buoyancy of hope, the serenity of faith, the tenderness of patience. Thshope of the world lies in the children. Vhen we are better mothers, when men are better fathers, there will be better children and a better world. "The sooner we sec the value of begin nings that we can put bunglers and butchers anvwhere else better than in nur sery, kindergarten and primary school (there are no three places in the universe so big with fate!) the sooner we shall ar rive at better results. I am afraid it is chiefly woman's work. The male genius of humanity begets the ideas ot which each century has need (at least so it is said, and I have never had the courage to deny it or the time to look it up). But the female genius, I am sure, has to help to work out the ideas and to help is also to do the work of the world. "I cannot see why Mar O'Eell should have exclaimed with such unction a few nights ago that if he were to be born over again, he would choose to be an American woman. He never has tried being one. He doesn't realize that she has in hand the emancipation not only of the American woman, but the reformation of the Ameri can man, and the education of the American child .as well. If that triangular mission Ham Tint, lrr lir nnt nf T,iirrilpf flnil tm1- 1 her the angel of the twentieth century, she is a nopeiess case! "Kate Douglas Wiggix." So Foollnz With the Law. Harper's Bazir. His Honor How old are yon, madam? "Witness I have seen 29 summers. His Honor Humph! How long have yon been blind? Coach Following the Grip. Many persons who have recovered from la grippe arc now troubled with a persistent cough. Chamberlain's Cough Remedy will promptly loosen this cough and relieve the lungs, effecting a permanent cure in a very short time. 25 and 0-cent bottles for sale by druggists. rrsu THE THE TIE, THE BOUDOIR. HOME IEMM1MB fll HYGIENE. INFANCY OF DRESS ART. It Draws Its Inspiration From Nature and We Are Just Beginning to Understand That Tact Fashion Plates Are Blind leaders Evening Gowns. rWKITTEX FOR TBX DISPATCH.1 Dress as an art is in its infancy nay, is not yet born. For art of whatever sort must draw its inspiration from nature, but the women who devote themselves to dress are wasting their time in the study of fash ion books. The art ot dress cannot be created in this way. If a painter wanting to produce a landscape should copy a tree from one chromo and a sky from another, and so on until his canvas is covered, he could not be called an artist. The'women say that it is necessary to fol low the fashion. But all accidents of cut are not fashion. All that is important to know of fashion is the general tendency of essen tials. There is fashion in painting, too. The artists of to-day do not paint like those of years ago, but no painter would think of imitating another man's work in order to put himself in sympathy with his time. He submits himself to the influences abonthim, but his study is nature and his expression is original. Goes Back to Nntnral Ism, This same thing we must do in dress if we are to produce artistic results. "We must study forms, textures, colors and the condi tions under which the garments is to be worn, not fashion plates, and we must do it with minds informed of the laws of beauty. "When we understand this we shall perhaps A Kovrl Design. Eee the birth of -the art of dress. But do not let us make any mistake. It is not suf ficienjato look back with admiring eyes at the dress of the Greeks. "We must ask what causes its beauty, and with the knowledge gained produce something original in har monv with our modern life. The hindrance to doing it lies, I fancy, just here. Causes are abstract and the generality of women are not students. Those that are are occu pied with other subjects. This may ex plain why a subject of such lively interest to half the world is as yet without any testhetic development Immense possibilities for beauty lie wait ing in materials till we learn how to develop them. The cincrle proposition that folds should obey the laws which control their texture, opens up a rich field. "When we have learned to work it we shall cease con straining textures into forms unnatural to them, by linings, and wirings, and seam ings and shall permit them to fall so as to exhibit their own nature. TVhen Textnre Leads Itself. "When we know a little more we shall cease sewing upon our gowns ugly machine made trimmings, whose only efiect is just such a display f itself as tlie shop counters afford, and learn to develop from the cloth its ornamental qualities. We know very little about the beauty there is in wrinkled drapery, when the texture leads itself ac cordion plaits pressed discriminatcly into every kind of fabric mean nothing, except that we have looked at the Niobe and learned no lesson. In knots aud in folds drawn into soft ropes to bind the drapery to the figure; in such ends that fall and overlap, like wings folded down, and give in folded lines a varied surface of light and shade, in these there is an infinity of beauty all untouched. Are these things not of more pleasure to the eyes than idiotic panelsand passemente ries, even though arranged by a "Worth? The great Parisian dressmakers, if one may 532s, An Artittie Evening Gown. judge by this work seen in New York, owe this eminence not to art, but to skill in dressing novelties. A well-known New York woman recently received from Felix an evening gown which had a band of passe menteries sewed down the middle of the gored front breadth. The rest of the dress corresponded with this imbecility. There is no art here: there is only imbecility. Advantage ot the Evening Gown. "When women begin to study beauty for the sake oWrcss, the results are likely to show first in evening garments, which are freer than any other from conditions of utility. Also the women who wear them have wealth, which gives advantages of knowledge, as vell as choice of materials. Concerning evening dress, itought torefer its weignt to the shoulders. This is espe cially required for a dress of leisure, so that it will be in harmony with its surroundings. The jiainters, if they have done little for dress, have at least shown us this. Such dress should have jn it no suggestion of eflort, and it is at the shoulders that gravity is resisted most easily. The bodice that clings round the waist, with only incidental assistance from the shoulde'r resisting gravity by lightness is a manifestation of effort, and ont of place in the drawing room. Its prototype is the peasant's waist. It speaks of labor. A yoke or fillet about the shoulders should be the source ofull the lines and the center of strength of the evening gown; this can be done without-departing from fashionable lines. There is no sign that fashion understands this sort of beauty, yet one sees it here and there, stumbled on by accident, in modish gowns. IVell Supported on the Shoulders. In place of the nsual gathered lace or ml (Mi I I PITTSBURG- DISPATCH, other soft yielding outline which destroys the character of the garment by making weakness where strengh is needed, there should be a collar of gems in substantial setting, or a binding of strong texture, as of velvet, or a fillet of intertwined strands to uphold the draperies of lace or other deli cate film. This fillet must not ,be so lo w but that it is well supported upon the shoulders. A strong texture is sometimes as effective as a stronger textnre as rose pink, or brown, to pale pink draperies; but the deep color must be reserved for the fillet alone, as if used elsewhere on the garment all its mean ing will be lost. The garment may be in one piece or two, but its confinement to the waist should ap pear to be by belting and not by curved in seams. The first design here given shows the effort of a vonne Enclish eirl, who is now I visiting in this country, to produce an even ing dress on artistic lines, she has gone to the classics and adapted with much success the peplos of Athene. The second drawing is a suggestion of what may be done by the study of texture. The cloth is crepe de chine. The fillet about the neck is made of intertwined and knotted sashes, and from it the garment, finely plaited, appears to hang in one piece, bound about the waist by soft ropes of the same material, knotted for strength. Not all fabrics can be used in this war, but only those whose nature is to lie in wrinkled folds. Cloths with a tendency to smoothness, that springs out of folds as soon as constraint is removed, such as cashmere, for instance, are unsuitable to this treat ment Ada Bache-Coxe. THUrcra THAT 1IA.E BEA1JTT. Suggestions for Unfortunate Women From the Pen of Shirley Dare. Shirley Dare answers some queries sent to her through The Dispatch as follows: I. B. Louisville Is there anything that will remove wrinkles and make the skin full and smooth? First Keep the skin moist and clean, the first and last things in the day, by washing face and throat with hot water and good soap, rinsing thoroughly with tepid water and using a warm towel. Second Keep the air of rooms moist by broad shallow pans of water on the stove or heater. "With furnace, see that fresh water is kept in the water pan daily. Third In hot rooms and in dry, parching weather, not uncommon in winter, moisten the face frequently with a sponge kept in a bowl of rosewater with a teaspoonfnl of vegetable glycerine, and let this dry on the face. It is very re freshing and keeps the skin from shriveling. Fourth On going out windy days, use toilet cerate for the1 cheeks and brow, -with a touch of cold cream for the lips and edge of the nostrils. Fifth Steam the face over boiling water, not so close as to be uncom fortable or suffocating. Allow 15 minutes for a bath of this kind, giving the tissues time to aosoro ine vapor, xwice a week, is often enough, though it will do no harm and erase wrinkles faster to use the steam bath oftener. Time is worth something to most women. Sixth Use cerate at night until the skin regains its smoothness, and then use it whenever dryness and harshness of the skin is felt. Seven Apply facial mas sage gently accross the wrinkles as part of the daily practice till the face is smooth, then occasional friction will keep it so. E. H. Is there anv remedy for the wrinkles round the mouth caused by laugh ing? I do not want to go through life with a parenthesis around my mouth and yet I mrist laugh. Laughter is pleasant, but there is no need of laughing with month open and stretched at every minute amusement. The deepest sense of fun may exist with a controlled mouth. Oval or long faces with high noses and sizable mouths cannot afford to be on the stretch at every smiling matter, for parenthesis will come in such feature. Learn to laugh internally with shut lips. It may "be difficult at first, but it is possible and your friends will like your expression quite as well for the composure. Mrs. C. F. Is there really an establish ment for mechanical massage, or is it one of yonr pleasing articles for the press? Mechanical massage is well known in Boston and. New York, if not in other cities. "Whether pleasing or-displeasing, this writer does not deal in imaginary pictures without giving full notice. I have neither time nor strength for private letters of advice. Dora Kindly tell me something that will relieve me from pimples and blackheads. I have been troubled with them since I was 10 years old and am now 17. I should like to know what to eat. It is hardly so much matter what you eat, as to exercise briefly four or five "hours a day to secure digestion. Still the principal cause for the beautiful English complexions shared by princess and milkmaid, is the use of coarse brown bread altogether and much cereal food. Avoid pork; flour gravies and sauces, strong cheese and all lard pastry, or underdone pasirv oi any sort, also waxy potatoes and milk porridge. Take a hot footbath twice a week to improve the circu lation, bathe with hot water and castile soap every night and change the underclothing nightly until the erup tion is cured. Bub the person vigorously after the bath. The latest medical advice for blackheads is fomenta tions of hot water daily. "Wash the face first with warm water and castile soap to remove greasy matter from the surface, and apply a folded soft towel dipped in water hot as the skin can bear. "Wet it in the hot water an fast as it loses heat, covering the face with a dry hot towel as the wet one is removed. This brings the blood to the sluggish glands andstimnlates their activity, while it dissolves the greasy hard matter in the tiny sacs which form blackheads. This treatment is repeated three times a day, five minutes at each time, wiping with a soft, very warm towel, and avoiding cool air for the next half hour. To chill the surface would drive the blood back from the opened cells and make matters worse. Mrs. J. F. The muscles of my face are gettitig flabby with a tendency to "sag at the corners of the chin, andthe skin has an old withered look far beyond my years not yet 30. You must have rest and sleep and fresh air. Use a gentle massage or itroking of the cheeks upward with the palms of the hands, doing this leisurely with rests every half dozen strokes until 25 have been made. Bathe the flabby muscles in cool or tepid salt water and stroke them with palms wet in the brine, rinsing .with fresh water. "When the face is heated by the gentle fric tion, bathe it with a sponge and cool rose water till the slisht irritation parses off, and wipe the cheeks always upward from the chin to prevent lax corners. Aliis. Can you tell men some remedy for oily hair? I am afraid too much wash ing is hurtful, but find nothing else success ful. Try wetting it with alcohol and black tea, equal parts, every other night Washing oily hair with borax, or soapbark and hot water once a week, rinsing and drying quickly will not injure it. Beta Is there anything to prevent the veins in one's hands from looking large? Mine are so, but not from work or old aee. Large veins" show depression of, the heart's forces, and weak arterial action. Long sleep, driving in an open carriage, the use of potash water (kept at soda coun ters), together with hot drink and baths, are of special benefit. Cardiac depression is often caused by women sleeping in close bedrooms. Basy to Get a Confession. Detroit Free Press.: , He (accepted) You say yon were never engaged before? She Yes. He How does that happen ? I thought all women usually had three or four en gagements. v She (guilelessly) Well, I presume t shall, too. Yon see, this it the first chance I've had. Zil SUNT) AY jAinjAiiT THE UTILITY OF SUEDE. A Woman TTlth De Pincers Will Surprise One by tho Variety of Articles She-Win Make Prom It Anything Prom Bonnets to Slippers. rWIUTTEX FOB THE DISPATCTM Of all the many materials which have en riched the recent range of choice, both for personal and home adornment, suede is, perhaps, susceptible of the widest range o f treatment. 1 1 makes the softest of pillows, the dainti est of book covers, the most unique of bonnets and the smartest o f waist coats. It is service able, it is beautiful, and it can be found in a variety of colors, so that its nses need really be limited only by the ingenu- Jr a Drs Front. ity of womankind. In its more delicate tints it suits the dainty volumes of poems; the silver-clasped card case; the cuffs and collar of n dinner gown,and even the crown of an evening bon net, while in its darker shades it can be trusted to trim a walking gown, to make the best of slippers, to cover the cushion of a chair, and to do a multitude of things which make it dear to woman's heart. Painted it does excellent decorative service, embroidered it is fit for even a Queen's wear, and left in a state of untouched beauty it is good enough for anybody. Suede, being much in vogue, can be ob tained from any of the larger dealers in either shoes or gloves, but where a quantity is needed the better as well as the more economical plan, is to seek at once the wholesale dealers in hides. To make a card case, which can be trnsted to give a feeling of genuine satisfaction npon every occasion, Oardcase and Poelzcibodk. purchase a piece or bottle-green suede and cut it 13 inches long by BK inches wide. Mark off 2 inches at each end for the pockets, nnd over the surface between the two lines draw fleur de lis as the illustra tion shows. Then with genuine Turkish thread, or, if you cannot obtain that, with fine Japanese gold; work all the figures, press the work very carefully and line the leather with some Indian silk of its own color; using at the same time an inter-lining of grey linen canvas, such as is individually jieduor dress facing...- . Turn over each end onto the lining, at the line where the embroidery begins, and neatly slip stitch the ends together so as to make a pocket at each end of the case. Lastly fold in the center and press suffi ciently to make the case take the desired shape and it will be complete. After the same general plan maybe made the prayer book cover, whish is arranged to slip over the binding, and which not only preserves the latter, but adds a final touch of individuality to the owner's possession. Either the owner's monogram or the sacred L H. S., enclosed in a heav circle of eoid or silver, makes as nearly perlect a model as any that can be offered. The best possible materials with which to obtain satisfactory results in the embroider ing of slippers of all colors are the Turkish floss, genuine Turkish gold,, silver thread and fine cut heads. The floss is the softest and best of all the many good silks which the shops supply, and for all designs in which satin stitch is employed, is as perfect as silk can be. Beads are always admissable upon the toe for a woman's slipper, and where a touch of brilliancy is desired are highly to be recommended if they be of the best obtainable makes. But poor cheap beads must be avoided as surely as you hope -A. Design for Euede Slippers. for success. Economy, excellent thins that it is, must be put aside for the time and only the best be purchased, else your work will prove dull and rusty and your slippers prove a disappointment. The design given is intended for a slipper of tan colored suede and should be worked with the finest, most flexible of goldthreads. The work should all be done in simple Ken sington stitch, at that can be relied on to give a greater sense of flexibility than any other stitch known to the embroiderers' art. The decoration is both graceful and fash ionable and the slipper will be found well suited to a number of forms, as the soft tans and goldshades harmonize with a multitude of other and more prominent colors. The mechanical work of making must, as a mat ter'of course, be left to the expert manufac turer, but both the pattern and the special shades selected may be exclusively the owners. Besides the slippers there are two.otHer bits of apparel into which this soft and loyely suede can easily be made and without which no comment on its possi bilities would be complete the waistcoat and the bonnet crown. The formermaybe embroidered in a number of different wavs wjth equally good results. Simple and slightly conventionalized flower forms are always good as are all geometrical figures. Combinations of circles make a good effect vith really very littlo work and such a de- it f M$yVZ ( (fr J Mmyf I' A Ihm . jipfrf iffiv WKIkSsSPSSS8&3 ffr41M'y'. li'ir3rvlSSBI U, 1892. VB M . vmn im -vinnn nn mnu T kXT IfTT TT TCI fTITTTI TTT1 1 T ' gestion for many more. Upon & foundation of pale colored suede it micht he worked with excellent effect by using the following I comiunaiion ct materials. Untune the semicircular lines with etching silk one shade darker than the leather and work the triangular sprays which start from every anjrle in the best of silver thread and your waistcoat will be tasteful and in good form. C. L. B. LOGAN'S HOUSE H0TI03S. How She Provides for Both Beanty and Comfort at Calnmet Flace. , IWniTTES FOB THE DtSFATCIM Anyone who enters Mrs. Logan's beauti ful home in Calumet place in Washington instantly recognizes the existence of a marked personality somewhere that has brought the surroundings of the home into a beautiful harmony and yet has secured a distinct individuality everywhere. Any one who knows personally the mistress of the house, will understand this at once. Her home is exactly like herself. "I have never had an unlimited purse to draw npon for my furnishings," said the mistress of Calumet place recently to the writer, "and while it may be easier to give an order and say 'furnish this room in such style and such a color,' it certainly does not develop individuality and that to my mind is the first re quisite. Booms ought first to suggest 0 Vis 'SSP'V mmdB& I II lis II r LK -H. V7m &- 'WW "T Jlfrj. Logan' t Kome-itade Divan. their special uses and then the owners' tastes, habits and characteristics. Better a few things of real worth than a crowd of cheap ones without value intrinsically or from association. But come and look at a spot which I think every house should have somewhere." We entered the adjoining room, and in one corner was a most luxurious looking Eastern divan piled high with cushions, and over it hung a canopy of cordsand tas sels of white linen woven in an intricate pattern. "That surely is not within the compass of every one's pursel" "Oh, yes it is. Have a frame of common pine wood about six feet square and two feet high. On it place a set of bed springs and on that a mattress. Cover the whole thing with some heavy material. Don't upholster it; simply put the cover on like a bedspread, letting it hang down to the Vf2 JVrfy and Useful floor. Cover the pillows with some of the pretty but inexpensive art fabrics and there it is. Of course the canopy is not at all necessary. A friend sent me this hammock from the Argentina, and as it was too dainty to put to its original use I arranged it over my conch. "I have a great fondness," Mrs. Logan went on to say, "for things with aisocia tions. This, pointing to a massive ma hogany dressing-table with oval mirror and brass handles to the drawers, "belonged to President Buchanan when he was minister to England. This cup and saucer once be longed to the PrincesS Bismarck and these Indian relics in the hall were given to my husband by different friends. 'Festina lente,' literally translated, 'don't be in too much of a hurry,' is a good motto for house hold decoration. Individuality, decora tions which mean something from associa tion or actual worth on that plan I have furnished my home." She Came Near the Spot, Harper's Bazar. Miss Allsoul I take it, Mr. Longface, that yon, too, have . seen your trouble in life's voyage. I feel that my own sad ex perience gives me the right to speak; you will take no offense, I'm sure. Mr. L. Oh, not at all! Certalnlyl I haven't been without my affliction. Miss A. (with a look of deep interest.) A heart trouble, I fancy. Mr. Ii Well in that neighborhood weak digestion. WAk t . : silk' IB II Ul II I III w UAfluaur inn ujxx. Y j J IX Id mih LUEjAb. M nilliriir AHln Dtms "nd I'nrnltnre, Society People Aa!n Dress and Furniture, Society People Ara Going Back to the Old Times for Their steps The Stately, ailnnet Variations Other Movements. nnUTTISTOB THE DtSPATCH.I IGH social circles have of late years been known to attempt to popularize such old Spanish and French dances as the pavane and the minuet But u ior some reason w fi other, neither the pa vane nor minuet be- came very popular. They were voted "slow." This was several years ago, and now Queen Fashion comes forward with another novelty in the dance line. It has a number of names. For instance, yon may call it quadrille pose, or posture dance, or, if these names don't suit you, yon may speak of it as the Spanish jie. Itis hardly worth while to go into elaborate description of the figures, since they are varied greatly on every occasion, the leader and partner setting the example, and the other couples following suit. Substantially it is a revival of the old, old minuet, with a trifle of enliven ment, and occasionally a suggestion of a Maypole dance or a Virginia reek Of course, much depends on the caprice, tem per and resources of the leader, as in a ger man. The quadrille pose is said to have been a dance in vogue among the peasants of Brittany in the sixteenth century. There are eight figures altogether, and dances and cavaliers keep well apart, barely joining the tips of the fingers. Four couples are needed for this dance, which, when well executed, affords both belles and beaux an opportunity to display any native or ac quired grace. Simplicity the Dress Mottrf. It is a pretty fashion for. the ladies who take part in the quadrille pose to dress a la sweet simplicity, with the skirts rather" short to show pretty slippers. The waist of the dress is cut a la vierge, moderately decollete, either sleeveless or with the old fashioned puffed sleeve, ending at the el bow. The hair, too, must be quaintly and picturesquely dressed; the gentlemen may alsobe attired in somewhat picturesque fashion the sixteenth century style for in stance. There is a revival of an old dance called the passe-pied de la reine. This was a French country dance in great favor at the French court during the last century, and even earlier. The dance is a bright and lively one, often danced now in France, having been adapted to modern require ments by the ballet master of the French Opera Honse. The opera hat and fan play important parts in the passc-pied, in one figure. The fan is held between the joined hands of the partners like a flag or a plume; a fluffy, rather long ostrich fan is most appropriate and effective. There are eight figures in this dance. Delames, a Swedish national country dance, has been tried upon different occa sions of late. The movements include some very intricate figures and a half dozen tableaux and groupings. TJie dancers should wear Swedish peasant costumes of gay colors. ' One of the Prettiest Ont. L'Avenir is a rather new dince, which is a combination of the schottische, waltz and galop steps together, with a step nnlike any of the dances now in vogue. The music to which it is danced is very gay and sprightly, the movement picturesque and pleasing, and the effect of a room full of people dancing it is enchanting. It com mences with a schottische step, the music quickens to a galop, and again as quickly slows to a stately measure resembling the minuet, only that it J3 a little more vi vacious. The last step is the intricate' L'Avenir itself, and is like nothing so much as a waltz danced in quickstep time, if such a thing were possible. As the various figures come and "go the gentleman puts his arm about the lady's waist as in ordinary round dances, holds her left hand in his right as they trip for ward side by side, both facing in the same direction, with a smooth, gliding step in their progress to the galop, which is a feature of the dance. London newspapers chronicle, as an inter esting bit of social news, that the "fashion ables are smiling again" on the dance that was at the height ot popularity there half a century ago the polka. As danced to-day, the polka hash pleasing variety in its move ments perlect sympathy with the music and an entire absence of the trying monotony that made the old polka a torture to the dancer. As it stands, the rehabilitated polka is ex quisite and incapable of further improve ment, and, like the waltz, it possesses an in trinsic beauty. The Skirts in the Zllnnnt. As to the minuet, the first thing that a lady has to learn about this graceful and dignified dance, so a professor tells me in tn hold the skirts of her dress. In the begin ning ot tne minuet she must take her skirt with both hands, just clutching a bit of the garment with the tips of the fingers, and raise it from the floor about as high as the tips of her boots. Then standing squarely upon both feet she is in the first attitude of the minuet Following that comes the courtesy, .which is a most difficult accomplishment. This is made by drawing the right foot hack and placing the toe upon the floor and bending the whole weight of body back upon it, and keeping the lett foot square down upon the noor. .J-iie iaay snouia sine her self as far as possible without losing her balance. As she goes down, the heel of the left foot may come slowly off from the floor, but the heel of the rightfoot must not touch it. In the movement, the lady must not take her hands from her skirts, and her head should not droop down. The movement must be made very slowly and the recovery executed with equal de liberation. Mrs. Arthur M. Dodge, by the way, dances the minuet more perfectly and gracefully than any other lady in New York. For children, the "Fairy of the Ferns" is a pretty dance, in which flowers form an important part. "Fascination" is also a dainty little dance, done in three-fourths time and danced almost entirely on the toe. Feances Stevens. g , have of late years auiiio- VI AUiiriUlAJj xwuiw . h;s The Universal Report from Every Section: A letter just received from. a StPaul merchant says: "The sales of Dr. Price's Delicious Flavoring Ex tracts have doubled within the past -three months, and the demand is constantly increasing." This is account ed for by the fact that Dr. Price's flavors are just as represented free from poisonous oils and ethers, are ' true to nature, made from the finest fruits, of delicate taste, and of the greatest strength attainable. The'" nousewiie wrio uses them ine cneap substitutes. TfRtarTHTO PoTvuo SarnnX RnTriTTKir -' and wwu, ,j a ui.wu i. Should Have No Terrors. m Elmple Test of the Efficiency of the Dalrj- W man's Product, LESSONS THE BT0CER1ISEES TEJLCH 9 nntrrrEr roa thi DtsrATCH.1 Sterilized milk has usually been recom mended as especially valuable in disease of ihe stomach and bowels. Its highest value is not, however, as a medicine, but rather as a food. Favorable as are the re sults of its use for sick babies, its best work is always with children of average health 'and heredity. Its chief value is not in the cure, but really in the prevention of infan tile disorders. These, as a rule, attack those only whose vital powers have, through some form ot malnutrition, been reduced be low par. The artificial foods that preceded sterll ized milk in popular favor were all defec tive in one'or the other of two ways, they were either unsafe or unnutritious. The first class, comprising nearly all sorts of milk diet, furnished the proper and natural elements of nutrition, but were dangerous because they contained such abundant germ life that the child who took them was sel dom well and often violently ilk The second class embraced the patent baby foods and condensed milk; they eliminated the elements of danger arising from bacteria in fection, but failed to furnish sufficient nourishment to meet the demands of a grow ing child. Each class avoided the danger of the other, only to incur as great a danger peculiar to itself. Milk la the Ideal rood. Milk as a food furnishes all the elements necessary to life and growth. Now that it can also be made free from germs, it is ' when properly prepared an ideal food, and its discovery has revolutionized the whole system of infant dietary. Sterilization is merely an effort to restore milk to it natural germless cendition, and to retain as mnch as possible its normal elements of nutriment. The common belief that the primary ob ject of sterilizing milk is to prevent it from souring, is misleading. Milk that is in dangerof becoming acid before it can be used, is already unfit for infants in any form. The important object to be obtained by sterilizing, is to destroy as soon and as thoroughly as possible the "bacteria, which otherwise continue to feed upon the milk and to destroy the fat globules, which con tain the elements essential for the nourish ment of the babe. Most of "the milk used for children is even when fresh deficient in fats, and the uninterrupted action of the germs renders it simply starvation rations for any growing creature. By pouring a small quantity of the milk into a graduated test tube, and setting it aside for 24 hours, any mother may learn just how much cream it will yield, and by placing oneof the bottles in the tempera ture of a livin? room she can ascertain if the milk is sufficiently well sterilized. Feeding Does Not Mean Nourishment. Most children are fed too much in bulk. The milk they drink is not rich enough to satisfy with any normal quantity their healthy appetites. To approximate to good breast milk, we must start with cows' milk that will yield one fourth its own bulk in CTeam; this, when diluted with equal amounts of water will yield a food that is safe, nourish ing and entirely adequate to all the de mands of a hungry stomach. Fed on or dinary city milk, many children slowly die of starvation, or become in time the vic tims of chronic illness, resulting from mal nutrition. An infant may be fed to reple tion and yet be poorly nourished. Scores of even well-fed babies are half starved without ever having suffered from hunger. Malnutrition is indicated by late dentition, poor bone formation tending to rickets, broken sleep by night, general fretfuJness by day, a susceptibility to colds and a ten dency to catch all prevailing disease as a consequence of lowered vitality. Immunity from disease is especially im portant during the first year of life; since a child's power of resistance is then at its lowest ebb, and its susceptibility to infec tion at its maximum. Statistics prove that with every month of existence a child's hold on lire is stiengtliened. Breeders of animals will give yon numer ous factd about the relation "of food to growth; they also formulate many rnles of vital importance of balanced rations. Little attention is, however, paid to scientific plans for feedinsr children. As they, however, are so near akin to the lower animals, we may gain somethins by rehearsing for their ben efit a few of the axioms in the rearing of colts or calves. The Proper Time for Growth. It Is known that a horse nndor a year old will make more gain in weight on a given amonnt of food than he can add to his avoir Unpois on twice the amount later on. The ultimate size of a horse, cow or a dog Is practically determined by its nourishment and care during the first six months of life. If any of these creatures fail during 'that early period to make the best growth possi ble, ho can never afterward make It up, and must fall short of its possible maximum size at maturity. The greatest difficulty in rearing calves that are fed is the prevalence and severity ni Dowei troume. oome oi ino unesc aairy farms in America have, during certain sum mers, lost every calf in spite of persistent effort to euro and save them. At oar own larm, we have or over two years tried the experiment of feeding all the young Jersey cows with sterilized milk. Daring that time not one of the young creatures has had any ot the dreaded trouble, and the growth they have made has been far beyond the average. Properly fed with milk that Is sterilized and unfflciently rich in Its fats, the average child escapes infantile disorders, is fortined against the contagions diseases of childhood, and at maturity may hope to attain greater size and vigor than is possible when given any other! lonn ox noansuraent. Fbasces f ishxb Woon. AlL classes praise Dr. Bull's Cough Syrup, the great remedy of our age. Only 25 cents. once will never pnrchase- a . - - '. 38 1m jB 9I m i 1 a a -1 ugu us we one given can De taken as a buz- Tho GiaXhtfeBoz Transform! ? v , . . " ' . . - t
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers