THE pnrrsBiniG- DISP&TCH, ? SUNDAY, ' I&SURY 10, 1892. 13 Syw J 1 ti mors REALM. A Kew roitcry Wrought From Prosaic Claj by a Progressive Girl and Her Penknife. TRAIXKG FOR THE CHILDREN. The Guest Chamber Should Fe Made s Cozj retreat for the Visitor "tThen She Becomes Tired. iOO LIBERAL WITH ENTHUSIASM. Wis ard Eids f Small Talk of Interest U the Qapens of the Home. tTvniTTES" roc TnE DirATcn.i Just before Christmas there appeared In one of the handsome china bhops of Xew York Citv a vase of a peculiar kind. It was of white semi-opaque porcelain, in antique shape, and chiseled it-' vxvm is ccr-83?i j-, ""-J-Ci against the rough sur- lace was a young ana "$," beautiful woman's fig ure, with flowing rown and filleted head. Peo ple came in and out. Jlo't of them glanced carelessly at the vae and said, "Isn't it HocK-'tchi rate. pretty." A few hero and there stopped and picked it up and looked Uionzhtia!, while they asked, "This Jsiiew. "What is it. and who did it?" These few were collectors and people of tlielr tastes. One day an ingenious sales man slipped a tiny electric light inside the Tr.se ard instantly ciery shopper that came in exclaimed at the beauty of the piece. Back of the quietness and refinement that are inseparable from white chiseled work was the mojiilighty effect of the light creep ins, the semi-transparent texture throwing the classic figure out in relief against a transparent background. A "iocnp: Girl's Discovery. This work is interesting from another than the artistic fide from the personal one. It is the work of Kate B. Sears, a young girl, who, not many years ago, went from her home in Kansas to Boston to study modeling. Miss Sears had a wish to see what could be done w ith modeling as applied J lo pottery, ami alter her study in Boston went to the potteries in Trenton, X. J., to rce if it was practicable. She at first tried applying modeled decoration to the wet Bellcck clay vases, but they dried too rapid ly End would not bear rewctting. She went 9iome one nisht revolving a new project in 5:er head thit of carrins adesisn into the dry ware before it was fired. To be sure, J there were no tools to aid snch a process, lint the could make something serve her i purpose: she was sure of that. Any woman who has once found out the possibilities of the hairpin is nccr daunted at the absence of tools. Miss Sears didn't try a hairpin, but she 3id try the next likely thing, a penkuife. "With a sharp, firm blade she began the next morning So whittle at a little pitcher. It was an inspired kind of whittling. Lit tle by little the outline of a small, chubby Cupid appeared, a bashful Cupid, with his arms thrown over his eyes, bringing his dimpled figure out in strong relief tgainst the louch background of the pitcher. Beside iim lav his bow and a broken arrow. The piece was fired and came out better than the worker had hoped. It really looked like a new idea in pottery, end a successful one at that. She Has Opened Vj a Xew Held. Miss Scars tried again. It was not so easy to touch firmly enough to cut the ware and yet not to crush it, for in that state it is as fragile as a bit of hollow chalk. Each time the sueccs.s was more distinctive. Each of the few piecs li.at were now made was cut in the same w..v with a penknife. And each is better than the one before. The effect of the work when done, especially when the pieces are Jiihted from within, is that of moonlight tailing on tne objects repre sented. Vnconsciously, perhaps, but verv nrtis'ically. the character of the figures por trayed is admirably adapted to this treat ment. There are Cupids and fays and deli cate up-springing figures that are part flowers ai.d part fairies. And so great is the artistic success of the new work that 3Iiss dears' name is already spoken of as the designer of a distinctively new and original piece or pottery. Person ally. Miss Sears is as interesting as her wort She is thoroughly sensible and inodert. "I am cntirelv in lack of materials lor anity," she says, "and innraise of my work 1 dread o er paise. I think the idea ot chiseled porciain will stand ever so much, praise, but the present execution of the work is not what I would have it." Miss Sears is a firm believer in the bright tuture of the ceramic art in America, and "for my part in that future," she says, "I hope to be able to keen on studying art as high art and s earnestly studied as though it were to be applied to Carrara marble instead of china." If Miss Sears fulfills the promise of her early girlhood, when that future in ceramic art gets here, she will be counted among the Siisi na igators in the vessel that has brought it. TEAISI5G ?0S CHILDEEK. Eott Cm 3Ioflrrn Progressive Woman Is Kearinjr a ramilr of rive. TWEITTEV 1 OE THE DISPATCH.! The American child isn't always the bad tempered, utterly spoiled youngster that travelers and foreigners fancy. There are many, many homes where he is growing up from childhood to youth, carefully watched and guarded and admirably trained, amid turrouudings lovingly adapted to the de velopment of the best there is in him. I'arents are learning more and more every day U appreciate the advantage of physical cs well as mental training, and to undcr ctauU ;hat the two sro hand in hand. And verv forti.rate are the children who have been born into the new order of things. Pi'.e -udi lirtie people are the children of Mrs. Bk hard Watson Gilder, the wife of the editor o; the Century. 3Irs. Gilder is .deeply interested in the subject of the traiumsran.l education of children, and she tries to put ner theories into practical exe cution in Vr own family. She believes very tliorriighiv in kindergartens and all of her cnilircu attend one for two yeirs, from the lima ll'ev are three or four vears old until thev an.- fi e or six. After that they eiuu a; none ior a lew years with a gover ness and, a hev grow to be large bovs and girls, they .wli all be sent away to tehooL t'oine Training Isn't Broad Enough. Mrs. Gilder thinks that an exclusive home training is apt to bo narrowing in its effects, and she likes to liae her little ones brought into contact with companions of their own cge, that their minds and sympathies may be broadened bv learning early in life to understand how many needs and interests there arc in the world besides their own. 'jLlie oldest o: the linnl v n Rodman, a boy of 31. naineo. alter his maternal "rnni.?ntti.;. then Dorothea, who is U: George, who is 0; 1'rancesca, 3 ;. ears ol'', a namesake and cod child of Mrs. Grover Cleveland, and a baby, Bosamond. This is their daily life: At 7:30 they brefifcl.-.st on oatmeal porndgc, milk, bread and butter and eggs. Alter that Itodman gee.-: ;o a boys' school uptown, the little ones to a kindergarten, around the corner, and those who remain at home siudy with their governess from 0 until 12:30, all except baby flirty tssr , iEE& I .1 Vtij If ',Xt v-J. Bosamond, who i3 still in the nursery. At 12:U0 they go for a walk. On their return they have dinner, and this meal Mrs. Gilder considers ot great importance. It consists of carefully cooked beef or inut ton, the diflcrent vegetables in season, cud a plain pudding of some kind. Pork and veal they never have to cat, and they are allowed no sweets before their early dinner. After dinner they take another walk, if the weather permit?, or else have a frolic in their large attic playroom. All Sorts of Accomplishments. Then come their extra lessons, music, carving, fencing and dancing on different days. The oldest boy is learning 10 fence at'the fencing club and to ride, the oldest girl and youujcr boy are studying wood carving at "a neighborinc school for manual training, as their mother wishes them to be clever and skilful w ith their fingers as well as their biiins. At 5 until 6 there is an other plavtime, followed by their supper of bread and milk, and, after supper they go to bed at dint-rent hours between 7 and 9, according to their ages. "When they give a party, tint delight of the childish heart, it is at 4 o'clock in the alternoon, and their refreshments are cake and ice cream. All mothers like their babies to have pretty things to wear, and Mrs. Gilder is no exception to the rule, but she is careful that it shall not be a hampering pretlincss. She chooses their clothing herself with great care, and endeavors always to have it not only comfortable but picturesque, and for that reason she avoids, for her girls at least, readv-made srarment' with their sameness of design, and has made lor them instead little frocks and coats that are suited to them individually. "I try to dress them plainly but tastefully," she said, while speaking of this subject. "They do not think about their clothes, and I do not want them to, but I like to indulgcin a certain amount of aistheticisni in dressing my girls. You cannot do that with boyr, though; they prefer to look like other boys, and are un happy if they do not" Dorothea Has a Playroom. Xine-year-old Dorothea has a little play room, all her own, in which site takes great pride and delight. In it she keeps her dolls and bowks and other girlish treasures. It was there that Mrs. Gilder received me the other morning, when she was kind enough to tell me something of her children's lives and thei'-maniipr of education. "While we were talking, Franecsea, Mrs. Cleveland's namesake, came into the room. She is a winsome baby with big brown eyes, sunny, chestnut hair, cheeks and little round bare arms as brown a nuts, and a manner half shv, half confiding. "Ol course," Mrs. Gilder said, "if one of mv children were 'o snow a strong special talent in any direction, its education would be modified accordingly, but, in a general way, it is as I have told" you. They keep regular and early hours, spend a good por tion of e3ch day in the open air, cat all they wish of simply prepared nourishing food, with not too many sweets, and devote a moderate amount of time to studies, -varied so that their bodies may be trained as well as their minds." Mrs. Gilder is a good mother in the best sense of the word. She is a modern woman interested in the work of the world, and she watches with sympathy and understanding the various things that other women are doing in these latter days, but she feels that her own first duty is to those of her own household. "I think," she said, with quiet earnest ness, "that a woman with a family of chil dren finds her best work in her own home." Lyxette Oiixos. A HOKE POE TUE GUEST. Tho Chmber Should Bo a Place TTher She Can Rest Onletly. rwr.iTTEr ror. the nisiMTCir.i More than any of the sleeping rooms of the family should the guest chamber have a cozy and hospitable air about it. It is not a place alone where the invited guest goes to sleep; it is his or her withdrawing room, the one safe, sole spot to which the tired or busy guest cm go to drawafew deep breaths without being aware of it Because visiting is to a sympathetic and responsive guest, sometimes a little wearing. And so the room tor the guest shoul("b8 the most restful and kindly in its atmos phere that the skill of the little house mistress is able to plan. It should have a divan in it, for one thing a big cozy divan with pillows, and there should be "a little shelf with well-selected books hanging so near the divan that an outstretched arm will bring them. Then there should be a little spirit lamp and a tiny kettle close to the divan with a teacup and a tiny jar of choice tea, so that the tired occupant can have a cup of tea or hot watet if she wants it. without having to ask the hostess for it Of course there should be a writing table with anything that a writer could want, ii:i)i. Hlimw C !ijrar)i rWlzoila! !' ri .'f ," lb 4ZWU . CcmfortaW-e for the GucxL from the desk itself to a postal card and a stamp. And there should be an easy chair, too; a wide and deep one into which one could slip and dream tor a little while. A fresh flower in a vase, a tiny pot of ferns or a dainty statuette, these "are good to rest the eyes and brighten the imagina tion. The toilet stand should have every requisite for the toilet p. little pot of cold cream, a big bottle of delicate-cologne, a set of brushes and wash cloths! More host esses commit the sin of omission as aa Irish woman t ould say in regard to wash cloths than in any other waj. Towels ti ere ale in abundance, great, "big, snowy damask towels, eoaps and powders and pufis yea, and bath sponges even, but never a wash cloth. And there are qtill guests who are old-fashioned enough to want a wash-clcth. and the-e grope and plunge and wish and finally compromise with their own self-respect and their hostess' towels. And .t!io can blame them? "Wash-cloths, then, a fresh one every day, either of linen or flannel, and a buttonhook and a shoe-horn and a footbath and a whisk broom and a tiny mending- basket. Lastly. it to all these luxuries vou can add this, an open fire kept bright and clean, and if then vour guests do not love to tarry m your home, conclude that someihing must be wrong either with j our temper or your guest's. POTJEHSG OTTT ENIHUSIASK. It's Too I'reclocs au Ointment to lie Spilled on Every Opport unity. rwriTTE;.' rou the dispatch. t Bo you know little women, that you and land most other women.pill out our en thusiasm too lavishly? Enthusiasm is com pounded of about the best that is in us a sensitive love ot the good and the beautiful, a forgetfulness of self, a quick imagination and considerable nervous energy. Isn't that rather precious ointment to pour out too lavishly? Yet we do it constantly, don't we. VTe grow as enthusiastic over a new bonnet as we could over the discovery of a new solar system, we lavish as vivid praise over the latest society novel as we do I i mM MM - -''"..nilTl 1i.i.f--3-"" vmj&r rwmwL - '. lA' wJ - Mllhm-nr ..,!!! W' over the sonnets of Shakespeare or the prophecies of Isaiah. Not that we really do put them on a level, vou know, down deep in our hearts, but only that we let our sensitive responsiveness overthrow our standard's of value. And just the waste of that one last com ponent nervous energy, is worthy of being considered quite by itself, in these days when one needs all one's nervous energy to live by. Being very enthusiastic, admiring things very hard, makes one as tired as thinking very hard over mathematics or scientific problems. And the end of it is nothing at all. "But," says some little woman, "is there nothing in" life worth getting tired for? Isn't there any place for enthusiasm?" Surely, surely, but there is a difference in enthusiasm. To get into a fine glow of admiration over a noble deed or a great thought, that is one thing. To allow one self to get into an intoxication of enthusi asm over almost anything that doesn't pay. What are some of the things that it pays to be enthusiastic over? Well, let us see: Over the household holidays, Christmas and birthdays and Thanksgiving. Over a splendid deed of heroism. Over unselfishness in m.n and women. Over any discovery in science that helps mankind. y Over the saintsMn literature and art Over a great man who knows enough not to be tiresome. Over a pretty woman who isn't vain. Over Wagner's music, if you really like it Over some babies. FASHIONS IK STATI01.EEY. A S'jle for llonrnlns the Good Taste of Which Is Questionable. IWRITTEX Ton THE DISPATCH. 1 Some things about the fashionable sta tionery really are new. One of these is the new mourning paper, which, instead of the usual black bordering, has black tips at the corners. Mourning paper is always a little questionable. There are certain people who must always hesitate as to the pro priety ot indicating the existence of aheart sorrow by a stripe upon their letter A JVcw Mourning Paper. paper. It must occur to one, therefore, that, just because this ornamentation is new, it is tobe avoided. If one must'do one's mourning through tlig means of stationery, we should at least not seek novelty in it For ordinary use the newest papers are of thick satin with a finish that is neither rough nor smooth "dull" is perhaps the word that bet.t expresses it The tints are either cream white or pale gray, and the ornamentation is either in black or in silver. The sizes are in note and billet There is less and less instinct for ornamentation on note paper. Many persons will no longer use a monogram or initial, the address or the coat of arms be ing all that is permitted on the sheet, A Kew Flap. while the envelope is severely plain. Among the fancy note papers by which term the clerks In the stationers' shops designate all decorated stationery the only variety seen at present that conforms to good taste is a dull gray, with a tiny fieur de lis in silver in the upper left-hand corner of the sheet and in the flap that closes the envelope. All envelopes are either square or very slightly oblong. A new envelope which is somewhat longer than it is wide, and a trifle larger than the ordinary note size, has a diagonal flap instead of the usual pointed one. A yarietv that is certainlyjn b&d taste is a bright "blue with monogram in white. With this white ink is to be used. Another that is in perfect taste is a cool gray, wholly unornamented save for the house address in small silver letters. GZ0EGE V. CHII.DS 03 WI-iE! Tho tighter Are Dlsplnclrii the Heavy at Dlnnerx and .tinny Use Rone. It is an undoubted fact that the serving of many and heavy wines at large dinners ib gradually becoming a thing of the past, writes George W.Childs in the Ladits.' Heme Journal. Of course, I do not mean that wines are no longer served, for they are and will continue to be, so long as civilized men consider them a feature of dinners. But I do mean that of the varieties of wine there are fewer, of the quantities less, and of the qualities lighter, tl.au was the custom ten vears ago. Were I preparing for a ""large dinner for men which is always from the nature of things more heavily wined than an ordinary "mixed" dinner I should not think it in the least degree necessary to order any thing like the same amount or assortment of wines that would have been imperative a few years ago. And in extenuation of the statement that the qualities of the wines served are becoming lighter, the simple fact that at the average English dinner table port w ine has been, almost entirely super seded by claret, may be cited. It is also becoming very ordinary thing at English dinners to meet prominent men who do not drink wines of any kind, and in our country mis is aiso Becoming more anu more a tacu B03tS AEE OF SO USE. The jllaslioualand llasbsnd Prays for the I'.irth of Daughters. All opinions concur as to the utter worth lessncss of tneMashona as a laborer or as a servant, says Lord Randolph Churchill in a letter written The Dispatch from Mash onaland. They rarely stay mora than a fortnight 'with any one person, and almost always bolt should any blankets or clothing be given them One of our trio alone re mained faithful, "Tiriki" by name. He told me that he was very anxious to get married, as if he was lucky hirwite might 'have daughters which he would be able to sell in exchange for goats. It seems that in Mashonaland boys are perfectly worthless articles. I asked him how much it would cost to buy a wife, to which lie replied that lo buy a very pretly wife required seven things. Two goats, two blankets, two spades and some other article to be specified according to the taste or fancy of the vendor. Tiriki nas remained with me till now, and will, I hope, before I leave Mashonaland be in a position to ac quire the wife he longs for, more especially as he told me he had a girl in his eye who might be bought up before long by someone richer than he. PICTDRES ON THE WALLS. It Is Js"ot,an Easy Task to Huns Them Itlghtly Kow Good Taste Will Improve , a Boom Oil Works Take .First l'lace Always Groups. WBITTEN 1'OB TUE DISPATCH. J irnE 5fs- MmW f '? w Ss 4 AVlJNtt given a lew sugges ) tions regarding flat furnishing, our next subject in sequence would seem to be picture hang ing. We shall find that there are lovely photo-gravurcs (to he bought at small cost) of any of the early Italian masters, from Cimabue "of Arts' spring-birth so dim and dewy" to Ghilandajo and Botticelli. Or, if you prefer modern subjects why there are all sorts and kinds of etchings to be had at any of the print shops. Do not let us be afraid to follow out our individual taste, and remember that "the first of the new in our race's story beats the last of the old" if only, always, we are working along the eternal lines of truth and verity. Of course every room must have a picture rail which is a simple molding placed upon the wall about 2 feet from the ceil ing, if the room is high about 3J to 4 feet if the room is very high. The rail should harmonize with the tone of the walls. It should not be gilt unless your wall paper has gold in it. OH Gcs the Flnce of Honor. Oil paintings, if you possess them, must have the place of honor. Be careful to hang the painting in oils in such a manner that the light shall strike the picture from the same side in which it fell when the picture was painting. If you hang an oil painting so that the light falls across it, instead of with it, that ie a distinct error, and you will be conscious that something is wrong, al though you may not know where the fault lies. An oil painting is a complete thing in itself quite above the plane of decoration. Frame it so as to bring out its merits irre spective of its surroundings. Then try and bring your surroundings into harmony with the picture. Itwillbethesoulofyourrooin. Do not overwhelm it that is all. In hanging an oil painting, we tip it a little from the wall that the picture may strike the eve at the same angle that it would if actually at the same level. For our ordinary flat furnishing we may well be content "with pastels, etchings, photographs, etc. Pastels are generally framed, either in white and gold, or else in plain gold. They approximate more nearly to the class of oil paintings, and thus re quire heavier frames than either water colors or etchings. Framing n Water Color. For water colors there is infinite choice in frames, both in taste and price. If you desire only a simple binding, the mat should be of some delicate tint that carries ont the prevalent tone of the picture. The bind ing can be m,ule,of the same shade, a tone deeper. For example, I have a little sketch with a green foreground, rather a strong blue mountain on horizon, beneath a lower ing sky. This is framed in a pale greyish blue mat, with quite a strong blue binding, about the shade ot the mountain. Taking this as an instance, yon can frame as' many water colors as you pli-ase both tastefully and inexpensively. Remember, that the framing must cirry out the scheme of color suggested by the picture. As photogravures and etchings are brown in tone frame them with a cream colored mat and oak or maple binding, qr yon may have the frame broad, and where it touches the print, instead of a mat, put a silver molding. Photographs and steel engrav ings look best of all in white mats and fiat gilt frames. Ifyouaieso fortunate as to possess a good old wood-cut; cherish it and put it in a white frame with a white mat. There is a crisp, breezy, out-of-door effect about a good wood cut, that is bracing. How to Group the Pictures. Now if your pictures are small in size you will want to hang them in groups. Here is a little scheme. Ilang your largest picture in the middle of your se'lected space. Then, on cither side of it, place two small ones that balance each other, as nearly as pos sible in size and shape. Raise them a little higher than the center picture. Then select one that is small and rather narrow and put it just above the large middle one. In this way you will have a group that is graceful and effective. So much depends upon the pictures you have and the space at your dis posal, that it is impossible to lay down very exact rules with regard to grouping. Be sure not to hang your pictures too high unless yon balance them with bookcases underneath, aad do not place heavy oil paintings side by side with light water-- colors. Always place the most important picture oyer the mantel, as every room is fceussed at the hearth stone. That is the center of attraction, and it you fail to emphasize it, there will be a felt want. Or if you have no large picture, a long narrow mirror, placed lengthwise over your mintel-board, and a row of etchin 's or "water-colors hung above it, will give the desired effect Dora WnEELEB. A Drawing Room Corner. Here is a pretty arrangement for a corner of the drawing room. It cannot but please, and as for cost, why, arrangements do not cost The prudent always have Dr. Bull's Cough Syrup on hand. Costs but 25 cents a bottle. :!aSrfBi . ' wr ' "ti-) . i THE DANGEB IH THE TEA. It Stops Digestion aud Is Harmful When Promiscuously Used. rWBITTEIT FOB TnE DISPATCH.1 It may not be generally known that many physicians regard poison from tea-drinking as more threatening to general health than that from intoxicating drinks. It is unus ual, indeed, for women to be in the way of taking sufficient wine or spirits to injure themselves physically, al though it is true that tho white ribbon is their only pledge of snre safety there; but tea is a refuge to which they fly at any. time, when they are tired, wh'en they are ill, when they want excitement. Mean while the miserable habit of 5 o'clock tea drinking, which some one has called an in sult to luncheon and an outrage on dinner makes tea-drinking a form of dissipation, and causes a great deal more of it than would otherwise take place. It is a pity that a fashionable fad should take on 60 injurious a form. Tea not only hinders digestion, we are told; but ft stops it altogether, while the essential Latest Form cf tht Temptation. element of tea taken in excess impover ishes the blood, injures the heart and plays a very particular mischief with the nerves. One or two cups of tea of mod crate strength, taken at those meals of which it is a natural part, which would cause it to be taken never more than twice a day, Mid seldom as often, may act only t t?- M - . xjst rrn a n :. l vjrr -j--. .mz-m? Where the 2ficcMe Is Don'. as a stimulant and do no harm, but taken promiscuously, when one feels a little down, or for other reasons, with the pretty tempting equipage at hand, when the in timate comes in, offered as a matter of cere mony, indulged in over a good gossip, all that is not only dangerous, but immediately ominous, and should be abolished. Margaret Ford. THE CYSTOUS OF SEEVAHTS. Sometimes They Try the Patience of the Most Amiable Womsn. rWEITTES TOE THE DISrATCH.l N the matter of answering a call from upstairs there is much room for improvement Doubtless the best way is not to call at all, but to ring the bell for Thomas and let him carry the message needed to be sent to the diftant member of the family. But, owing to circumstances over which they have no control, there are people who cannot do this. They are frequently obliged to make their voice save their heels as it were. x The head of the family needs William in a hurry. She knovs most of the family are downstairs, and she supposes William is there too. With this much knowledge, and her imperative necessity in her mind, the nead of the family pushes to the door of her room and calls: "William!" "William!" "William!" Xow it happens that William has just stepped out into the street, or perhaps he is in the cellar, or it may be he is upon the housetop. Anyway, he is out of hearing. But in the room below, understanding per fectly the frantic appeal, repeated repeat edly sit Mary, John and Kate. They know William is wanted badly. Thev know William isn't there, or w here he can answer. They know William will be called for until some knowledge of his whereabouts is ob tained. Yet there they sit and sit un heeding. Not until the wronged woman above goes doun, and, discovering the situation, asks fiercely why somebody couldn't tell her William wasn't there, do they look up. "William wasn't here," they repeat calm ly all together. "And why "couldn't you tell me that?" demands the indignant and panting head of the family. And they one and all reply with exasper ating coolness: "You didn't ask us that. You called for William." Eva Love Carson; WHAT A WOKAH CAN DO. Bardrtlo Says She nas Gained Mnch in Freedom and Lost J.om., Too. Now a woman can do anything she tries, even to singing bass in her own quartet of girls, so that weak man is a superfluity in the choir, writes Robert J. Burdette in the Ladies' Some Journal. She has harnessed her grace-hoops tandem, and made a bicycle of them; she rows, she fishes, she shoots, insomuch that all men, and it may be that some game, fear her shooting (joke); she weareth her brother's hat, and his outing cap; his sjiirt front, his four-in-hand tie, and many things that are her brother's. She is stronger than her mother, and can stand a great deal more rest; she is quite as happyi an(l far more independent She hangs onto the strap in the street car when her mother had a seat iu the omnibus if every man rode outside in the rain. - She gets jostled and pushed about in the crowd, when some bareheaded man, bow ing low, used to make way for her grand mother. With weary patience she stauds in line at the ticket office; woe is she if she presume on the privilege of sex to Btep in ahead of a man; she gets hustled D3ck to her place Much she hath gained by freedom; somewhat, also, hath she lost Jrssrrx fs i .-II JiMci' - 'w B B i if IdaBBI-il THE KILTS ARE NO MORE. Our Boys Step From Itahy Clothes Into Complete fllascnline Costumes Jfow-So Danrer cr Beln; Mistaken for Girls Some Protfy Outfit. f WRITTEN FOR THE DISPATCII.l A change has come into the dress of little boys. It stole silently in when none knew it. Haranguing had no part in bringing it about The little boys did not fill the land with discussions as to hygienic improve ments iu dress; they went to work and effected a revolution and a reform without saying a word. "Whether a mountain high conglomerate of tears and kicks and pouts were toppled down upon the hearts of the mothers to crush them into submission, or whether a simple involuntary appeal for the common rights of man has won the vic tory, it has come about that in the matter of dres) our boys are now boys from the word Go. By which I mean to say that they now step out of baby dresses directly into trousers. No kilts; no petticoats, inter vene. There is no half-and-half period; no debatable space; no lingering on the threshold, no trailing of garments till they get dust grimed, that sentiment may ac- Hi First Masculine Suit. custom itself by a slow, lingering per spective. But when he leaves his nnrse's arms presto! as outward signs go the angel is become a man. In Trousers at Less Than Three. "It is a wonderful improvement," said the fashionable tailor to babies, as he dis played a beautiful pair of trousers ten inches long, or so. "You can now tell that a boy is a boy. Since the advent of baby trousers the New York boy is properly dressed, a3 the European boy has long been." Ah! Then thi3 trouser advent is not the spirit of young American working, after all. It is only a following of European lads; it is a fashion and not a reform. We shall see. "People from out of town come in here with their children," he goes on; "and thev say: 'I want clothes for my boy.' I look at the child and say to myself: 'What! Is that a bov?' 1 can't believe it, for he is 6 or 7 years old and has petticoats on. When I explain the correct dress they gen erally exclaim: 'Why, he'll look like a monkey in that!' Wpll, the child goes into the"drcssing room in his skirts and come3 out in a boy's true dress; and well; you wouldn't guess he's the same child. He is trim and elegant; he is every inch a boy, as he ought to be. And the ladies are so de lighted that they carry him right off to the photographer's. It is a good enongh proof bf how a child iooks when the folks begin to talk about pictures." "And the youngest age at p-hich trous ers are worn in fashionable society?" I in quired, and he said, "Two years and 10 months." A Complcto Transformation. When the little man comes out from tho tailor's dressing room for the first time in his life, he is clad iu knee breeches of some delicate shade of cloth, or else of black A Bailor Cap and Suit. velveteen, and a sailor blouse of white wool, with color in the collar, and cuffs pale blue, or gray, or black and white in broken stripes. His dress suit may be of pale gray cloth, with its edges finished by a white satin piping cord. The coat has its fronts sloped away toward top and bottom, and is open over a white silk blouse shirt which has turned over collar and cuffs. A"wide belt of the gray cloth, pointed at top and bottom, passes across tne shirt front and under the jadiet. A white ribbon rosette ornaments eac" knee. For street hi3 ap proved attire is leather leggings that reach to the thich and meet there a short reefer coat. In this part the extreme efiect of his legs is reached. A critical glance at these costumes shows that, alter all, the radical change is only in the matter of leg disencumbcrmeat They have none of the severity of a man's dress. Nothing could be fuller of charming and simple variety than the tiny jacket over the blouse that billows below, and lalls out in flutings in front, and rolls over its crimped ruffles at sleeves and neck.' As to the trousers, if they follow closely and do not disguise the outline of the leg, taste cannot wholly object to them. And, as the tailor has observed, the boy steps out with a light ness and ease he did not have in skirts, and is happier in his freedom. Let tho boy have his legs! If only the girl could have hers! -V Dress Salt tor tittle Boys. A recherche dress suit for a boy of 4. or thercabonts i3 of black velveteen. Tlie coat is a French 3hape, with a seam in the back. It is slightly pointed at back and lront, tnc outline over tne nips being con cave. The open front is sloped back toward top and bottom. It is ornamented with braid. The blouse shirt of white linen falls below the coat, and ha3 wide collars and cuffs and fril.s. The coats for such small boys are without- collars, the blonso Jim J PwPift vrxi vMib collar falling over them. The neckties are of bias silk, and of white lor dress occasions. The head covering are caps of materiel to match the suit Velveteen, with a gros grain bandeau, is popular. Therais choice between an English shape, with visor, aud the round jockey cap. A felt of sugar loaf form, with" solt creased crown and stiff-rolled brim, is also in use. Thereis also the sailor cap, to wear with the still popular sailor suit. For boys somewhat older, say of 9 years, the dress suit is in three pieces. There is a stvle with a long coat, called "colonial." y i"iy (. liiBSt i A Dress Suit for a Fcvr-Year-Ola. The fronts are sloped back from the throat in an open V, to show the vest, which is it self cut awav at the corners. With this is a plaited shirt waist having a straight tnmed-over collar and straight cutis. The tie for this should be of bias silk. The Tuxedo Coat for illtr Boys. Larger boys wear the Tuxedo coat, which lias a shawl collar faced with silk. This is a dress coat merely. Another coat, suita ble for either dress or street, is a three-button cutaway, bound with braid. The correct material for these dress suits is undressed worsted. Knee trousers are worn up to the age of 14, and often beyond, dependins on the size and the style of the boy. School suits for boys ot all ages are of dark blue cheviots or of Scotch plaids, made with a double-breasted coat and edges simply stitched. Your tiny son can have also a house jacket that is a miniature of his father's smoting coat. It is of fancy plaid, with cord on the edge and abont the pocket holes and fastenings. Or it may be of velveteen, with silk quilted facings of color and fastenings of passementeries. In overcoats for boys of all ages thcrp is choice between the reefers and the long cape ulsters. The reefer is a coat after the active boy's own he3rt, because it is short and offers no hindrance when he is on skate or wheel. It is made of chinchilla, with velvet collar and braid binding, and is but toned to the neck. Very dressy ones are made also of cloth trimmed with fur; either seal, Persian lamb or beaver. The colors most in vogue are dark blue and dark brown. Zegslngs of Various Materials. Leggings to wear with these coats are of russet or of black goat. They may be had also of jersey and of cloth. For boys of 14 and thereabouts there is the Elberon coat, double-breasted, with the frock back laid in plaits. It is of plain beaver, with velvet A Very iVoWfy Outfit. collar, and velvet cord on the edge'. For older boys the dress overcoat is the Chester field of Jersey with velvet trimmings. The long ulster with the two-thirds cape is a comfortable driving coat The plaid ulster is the approved storm coat. "How much will it cost to furnish the wardrobe of a 10-year-old boy with the suits for various occasions he should havo to make his wardrobe a comnlete one," I asked of a Fifth avenue outfitter, and he said thas there wouldn't be much left out of 5100 not enough to buy a dinner with. Ada Bache-Cose. Colored Designs on Glass. An invention has been patented in Ger many for producing colored designs on the polished, engraved or etched glass surfaces or mirrors. The method, by which some pretty decorative effects are achieved, con sists in depositing a fiim or coating of cadmium salt thereon, subjecting this coat ingx. to the action of sulphuretted hydrogen or ammonium sulohide, whereby tlie colorless cadmium sulphide is converted into yellow cadmium sulphide, and then ap plying a coating ol metal foil to the colored surface for protection or additional orna mentation. The process is finished by ap plying a coating of silver over the whole surface of the glass in the usual manner. OCTTkSS a i HI i riumpnaniiy. Dr. Price's Delicious Flavoring Extracts, Lemon, Vanilla, etc., have stood the tests of prac tical use, in a million homes for more than a quar ter of a century triumphantly, and now are taking precedence over all other flavoring extracts They are justly entitled to the reputation they have estab lished." For strength, purity and fine flavor they are unequalled and can not be excelled. KOLLS AND MUFFEfS,; Octave Thanet Tells the Secrets of j Breakfast Delicacies. THE METHODS AEE TEE! SIMPLE. Skill Comes Only With Ixperien.ee and& Intelligent Observation. LEARXIXG TO TRUST TO TOE EIES WJM'l'TJCT FOK THE DISPATCH.! OLLS are commonly made the day that bread is baked, out of the same dough. My experience is to tho effect that rolls, like art, demand undivided attention.' To get out all the possibilities of roll, one must give them a separate career, not shove them aside as a mere lady's maid, as it were, of bread. For rolls I take a cake of veast to a pint of milk and half a pint of cream, scant measure being used in both cases. I mix the dough, add yeast and salt, precisely as in maKmg bread. I do not add sugar to me sugar in white bread is snch a gratuitous folly that it partakes of the nature of sinl Neither do I add butter. I knead it and butter the dough and the bowl and cover it with a flannel doth exactly as I do bread. When it has risen exactly as bread rises I cut it into rounds or make twists or simp ly long stont sticks, with pointed ends lika the Swiss rolls, or pile one round on an other, having buttered the lower round. Prefers a Boiler 3Iade of Glass. I roll it with a glas3 roller ("but a wooden one will do perfectly well) into a sheet per- Jj haps a quarter of an" inch thick. Out of this j sheet I cut my rounds. I find that it is bet- i ter in rolls to dispense with the second kneading; simply roll out the risen doush, ' and with as little handling as possible" make your shapes. I always let the shapes made ". out of the second rolling have an extra half hour of rising; they need ic I butter to be exact, paint with melted butter the dough set to rise and the rolls j afterwards set to rise; and I am particular , to go oer every inch of space. Spice twists j made out of roll dough, I have already de scribed. Rolls need a very hot oven. They are varnished with milk like bread just be fore they come out of the oven. These rolls cm be made as good as new by heating them thoronehly each morning. They must be baked with care and nicety and need 20 to SO minutes for the large rolls and 10 to 13 for the small ones. They can be made ten der or tonili like French rolls simply by baking. The slow baking makes them tough, the quick baking makes them tender. Only experience will teach the cook how long rolls should rise after being cut into shape, and how long they should bake. . - They need usually to rise" for the second time an hour or an hour and a quarter. Tliey do not rise so much in the oven, of course, as bread does. Illnst Keep thp Boll Apart It is essential that they should not tonea each other in the pan Rolls are particu larly gregarious and if you give them the least opportunity ttey will flock together, and goodby to the beautiful independent career. A pretty variety of rolls is to make them of half graham or whole wheat flour. I make muffins in the simplest and easiest manner; but, since thev are really rood. perhaps their simplicity mar be pardoned to them as to the rich and the great For muffins for a small family for breakfast the sponge can be set and placed in a cold place over night. B Jt it is, I have fancied, bet ter io bake them sooner. I make the sponge of half a cake of yeast to a half pint of wetting (scalded and cooled milk) if I wish the sponge to rise quickly, or a pint if I am setting it over night. I niake a sponge of white flour I have not mentioned that you must invariably use the best of flour and yeast and milk above susp:cion,because every other writer will do that Lbe3t it well and I use half a teaspoonful of salt I make it the thickness of buck wheat batter. It rises as long asycuhava time during the day, and all night, if set at I night Two hours ought to do if you have the favorable temperature of 75 to 80. Then I mix in egg, one or two eggs, a tablespoonful of sugar, a tablespoonful of melted butter, or, better, of cream, with enongh flour to make it stiff, but not like kneadable dough. Painted "With Melted Baiter. I raise it again and bake it. Before it : rises again I paint the surface in the muffin t rings or the pans with melted butter. I ; always make the sponge of white flour, but i I add graham, cornmeal, rye anything I t may fancy in mafcing np the muffins. They are sure. Enslish muffins can be made this , wav, only fried on a griddle in the rings in which they have risen. I once published a recipe for graham or ' rye bread which I have never had occasion to alter. Here it is: Ono piece of compressed yeast (when I say yeast I always mean Flei&chman'..) One pint orniilt, scalded aud cooled to a lukewarm stise. One sm-ill teaspoonful of salt. White flour to make a batter like bucls-;. wheat batter. y' Let the sponge rise one to two hours in a t temperature of 73 or 80. When risen stir in a enp of molasses (small cup) and if you like the bread sweet, a tablespoonful of " sugar. The molasses makes it raoister than sugar will. Lessen the molasses and in- s crease your sugar if such is your wilL At ' the same time stir in graham or rye or whole wheat flour (whichever kind you" pre- ' fer, bnt I do not think they mix well) until yon have a batter not quite as thick as bread dorgn. A few failures will teach you the right thickness. Beat the flour into the batter in the open air and get as much fresh atmosphere into your bread as . possible. Put it into a round pan (it must be a deep one) or into the so-called brick pans. Paint tha surface with melted butter and let it rise for two or three hours. The precise length of time must be left to your own eyes. Once master of the habits, the looks, the temptations of any article of food, yon may do things that, done by the beginner, would finish your dish in no time. Every cook knows the truth of this saying. J All of which is rcspectiully submitted by the reader's well wisner and late fellow suf ferer. Octave Thajtei. .1 j :-i ar as
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