'3npZ TeWt-,' DELICATE US II LILY let Strong as Diana, Is the French Woman Who Is Kecognized Mistress of the Stage. SHE SLEEPS BUT FI7E HOURS And Lores the Open Air, TTbflo Her Bath Is a Rare Combination of Lux ury and Hygiene. EEST IS A COAXGB OP OCCUPATION. Eer TVill Is Master and. L!ie Kapoleon, She Hale Morpheus Come at Eer Seek Can rcoxExerCKDErci or thi msntrcml N w Yoke, Jan. 2. ARAHhas gone I And with her a small world of confusion. The throb of suppressed excitement at the theater, the whirr and flutter of .French vivacity at the Hoffman House have given place to a memory. Nor does genius and accomplish. roent alone feel the recollection. This great French woman Is sensible, prac tical, methodic, abso- lutelv methodic, despite all the whirlwind inconsistencies laid to her door. Witness the good, plain sense, as exemplified in her da.ly private life. 'Madame, hovr would yon define repose rest?" inquired the writer, in a recent in terview in maJame'a bedroom at the Hoaman House. Mi; Must Have Her Joke. The immediate answer was a look. Snch a loot! of archness and mischief, as only La Bernhardt can give. The waywardness of this unique nature fairly danced into the eyes and for an instant she was like a young kitten with a mouse. "Par example," came next with a ripple of mirth and fun. "Absence of reporters! To be miles from that fraternity! Yoilal There would be rest indeed!-' But somewhere amid all the waywardness, ' btatf a warm heart, and when Sarah had rehsaed her little Ehot at journalism, she consented to get right down to business, and proceeded to speak of her internal me-chsni-in. "i-'.o(l. ah yes; that should come first Ton oil Know that in France we breakfast nu lit. Now my coffee and rolls come to my bedside early. When I wake, you un derstand, sometimes an egg I am fond of egtjs i cat them frequently. But it must healwavs v. ith regularity when I waken when my mouth and face are freshened. Hie Kreakfasts at Xoon. "At 12 o'clock, always promptly, is my breakfast, v hat you call luncheon a variety, fruit", meats vegetables at C o'clock I have a su and a chicken, or some small bird and alwr-s the taMe set for six. It i after the ia:i?ue of the theater at night that I make nij htart - meal to recuperate strength. This is r complete course dinner, invariably with friend", though you would call it a suppe-. W.-.ctcer on land or sea, in cities or ia travel, these meals occur with system atic rout ne. It is best so, four meals with regularity, and not much it a time. "How long does maaame sleep?" ".Five hours generally, in a cool room without l.ght." By the by, madame carries her own bed linen with her everywhere plus an eider down "comforter" quilted in pale pink ratin, and innumerable small and large pil lows of finest linen coverings, lace trimmed and taonogramed. They are the last things to be packed, wherever she goes, and the first to be unpacked on arrivals. Keeping tlie Ankles "VTaroily Covered. "Some one has said that I do not take much exercise in open air. Please correct that statement I take exercise continually. I live au grande air." From early morning in traveling madame is up, some days spendine the entire day in hunting or driv ing, to get glimpses of new country, and walking! Plenty of fresh air! That gives Uy Idea o Rest. vigor. Exerci'e! Walking out of doors in thesunhine invariablv. There is no such thing as genuine haaith without it But in travel, everywhere, even "at home," look ont for draughts "With me goes everywhere a robe dur ing rphears-jls. in driving, in sitting still where t'le limbs are inactive, they have to h covereiL Women are not careful enough ttiout their ankles Gauze stockings, slip pers, low shoes, and the dress falling this way a::d that, they are sure to get cold. Tiipy cannot be too careful about draughts and covering warmly the ankles. And Twircountrymen say "it is Teutonic' to do with as little soap and water as possible. Baht Tde very first thing I do after re-tun-in? at eight from the theater is to take my bath. "llir Miracle of Xadamc's liath. "Before visits, before eating, before any thing a. thai iiour I bathe. The maid has It in prpj-rat:n, plL First coes as a cover ing over the tub a large white sheet; into that liiod warm water is poured. Small Fac; r-uta'uins finely grated soap in small qj-niiiie-. of bran, or fine meal, per fumed v, tl. a little orris root, are used in place of a prne. They are covered with fine cheesecloth, and when their contents filter into t it v.aier it gives it a milk-white whiten", a delicious odor and softens the skin like : liab' 's Only a few moments in the bath, om m.ruin; and night. The first thing in te morning and late at night When rpaily to step out, the maid has a peignoir read), which m reality is a bath rcbe made it craoli toweling. This is heated and the bo iy enveloped in it Then gently rubbed to get up a friction of the skin. "Sometimes at rehearsals I have a moist rub don n uith the following prescription, which is very refreshing : Tepid water, a small quantity oi ammonia, borax, a dash of cay rum, and the whole sweetened vvith good "cologne, somr'irars violet, sometimes ether things, so maay essences are sent to me to try. It is a simple bath, but restful. "Change is what constitutes rest, vou see, my let 1 am never absolutely idle. If signs oi ennui, fatigue appear, at one oc cupation, turn to some other. It is not necessary simply to do nothing in order to JI2o ', Civ V ffml l mm fit ' 3P?f''!?s3,!BT?8SsiW?13KB,t,,?,Wi . - "t, WfiWr ' f '"' - " rt T i rest, but Tary what yon da Change the subject of your thoughts, there is the secret So Sleep in the Day Time. "I never sleep in the day time. One is jire to take cold in going out again. Will yourself to vary your thoughts, and by will and habit, learn to sleep at once when the time comes. Napoleon could sleep at will always. It is simply will and habit, and if taken when needed is always refreshing. To"u see, then, the secret of endurance is carefulness and regularity and the complete mastery of self; study to know how much you can do, and through study you w ill be astonished to find how much you are able to do. But remember, vary your occupation, change completely vour thoughts often. And look out for colds. Colds are insidious treacherous one can never count upon the end of a cold. "ily finger nails ah ! There is a little woman in the Bue St. Honore, Paris, who manufactures nail pomade to soften and whiten them who has her ovr-n invention of files. This red pomade comes in tiny olive wood boxes, and is put on at night, taking care to cover the nail with a thin coating of this paste perfumed. In the morning wash off what remains that has not been ab sorbed but never use a nail brush it ruins the" fine tender flesh about the finger tips. A little cotton on the end of an or ange wood stick will remove any impuri- Plenty of Fresh Air. ties or soil or stain. And never use scis sors or knife. It hardens the nail to cut them; makes them brittle. Iler Finger Isallj Are Umber. The little files I speak of are about fire inches long and very thin and fine. They are not to be had in this country, being an exclusive manufacture of the little mani cure in the Hue St Honore. Burnish your nails with, chamois skin; It keeps them healthy, and never use any hard substance in cleaning them. Alwavs add the small quantitv of cotton, and they will remain both delicate in appearance and so limber that they can be bent backward without breaking. "Too much water for the hands, without other insredients. is injurious. Most skins take well to oils or ungents A good thing for the hands is equal parts of lemon, gly cerine, a small quantity of borax and triple extract of violet, to sweeten the whole. Use this occasionally, but not for all times and seasons "Vary it learn to know what suits you best" Jfme. Bernhardt prefers not to name manufacturers of essences, as she uses many, but would still have to leave out some and advertise unduly others But she has a strong penchant for odors manu factured from roses She has an overwean ing fondness for rose leaf perfumes, both as sachets, i. e., the dried leaves salted and the oil essences like otter of roses Never Uses a Marketed Perfume. Just now she has a predilection for what is in reality an old fashioned rose geranium. It is so penetrating that the impress of her hand on your glove or shoulder inevitably leaves the .trace of this perfume. She also uses it through a spray on throat, hair and gown. You may always be fairly certain of one thing in regard to her perfumes that they are something distinctly her own when placed upon the market she chooses some thing else. For she is continually having early productions of all sorts sent for her approval or rejection. You would hardly think of comparing the divine Sarah to a Dresden shepherdess, now would yon candidly and yet you see she is as dainty as a bit of Saxomy, though as healthy as Diana. VlKlsa. HELPING THE FHYSIC1AJJS. Mothers Often Deficient In the Description of a Child's Symptoms rwMTTEirrOSTHE DISPA.TCH.1 A well-known doctor once complained to the writer that he had the greatest trouble when treating sick children, in getting any lucid and helpful resume of their symptom! from day to day, from the mother. "Here is a case in point," said he. "A few days ago a young mother came to me about her little boy, who had what she called a pathetic little congh.' Now, patnos in a cough is a symtom of which pathology takes no.note. So I asked more definite particu lars, 'what kind of a cough is it?' I asked again. '"Oh snch a pathetio cough,' the answered. '"But is it a loose cough, or a wheezing cough or a tight cdugh, or a bark cough ?' I persisted. He Has a Pathetic Cough. " 'I'm sure I don't know,' she said, sadlv puzzled, 'but it is ajsad 'little cough.' And that lb a tairsampie ot the way a great many physicians find themselves puzzled about babies. The mothers or nuises seem to have so little skill in interpreting their symptoms. " A young mother with a first babv mav find herself a little puzzled for the first few weeks to recognize the most striking symp toms in a baby's illness, but she ought soon to be able to make a very intelligent diag nosis of ordinary ills She ougnt to be able to tell whether the baby is in acnte pain or not and, in most cases, where the pain is located; whether his cry is a tired cry or a hungry one, or a sick one. She ought to be able to take its temperature and its pulse heats, as accurately as a physician, to dis criminate its coughs ani vray of breath ing. The condition of the bowels should lie significant to her also, and even of the skin. These are all matters that come with a little attention in watching andalittle knowledge in interpreting, and brains If a physician has been called, the mother should have a little hook in which she should be able to note down all the most im portant symptoms from hour to hour. LOOK to your interest. You can buy Sal vation Oil, the great pain cure, for 23 cents. m3 ' nTT JWWk v THE THE TABLE. THE CONFESSIONS OF A COOK. OctaTe Thanet Owns Up to Ba$ I.nok With Bread Four Dancer Sljnals Hnn? Out Her Compliments to Mrs. Ewlns No Cast-iron Knlrs. rWRITTTJf FOR THB DISPATCH.! It may not be an encouraging remark,bnt an imperious conscience forces mo to con fess that T was years puttering with yeast and flour before I got beyond a hit or miss knowledge of bread. Lite is too short for me to begin to tell of the. many regu lar, welI-appoved rules for bread that I followed with anxious exactness, with tremulous hopefulness, with discourage ment, with exasperation, with despair. Then I flung them all aside and experi mented. I have tried hop yeast, I have tried domestic yeast, I have tried a mucil aginous compound of intoxicated potato. I have tried the weird magic called salt rais ing, I have tried yeast that comes bubbling in a jug and the yeast that is left at the front door in an envelope, "for the lady of the house." Lastly, I have tried com pressed yrast Xou can if the Lord has given you a patient temperament make ad mirable bread out of all these yeasty sub stances, and yon can make perfect bread out of the last! Jio Cast-iron Rule for Teait Without going into the scientific aspect of the subject, I must say, in the beginning, that there is no oast-iron rule possible for yeast No feat of the cuisine demands more of the eye than the making of perfect bread. But-there is this compensation, an eye once accustomed to the proper looks of bread dough, in all its stages, is equal to any kind of flour or any kind of yeast It was my good fortune while I was struggling with bread to meet one 6f the best bread makers in the world, Mrs Emma P. Ewing. I then had arrived at the point where I could make a loaf of bread an exact copy of either French or Vienna bread as I desired. I did not see how Mrs Ewing's bread was to be better than the bread that I had eaten abroad; nevertheless,! went to her lectures She did not teach me to make any better bread than the bread of mv ambition, but she did teach me to make the same bread in a simpler and more speedy way; and I am glad, after many years, to acknowledge my obligations to her thus publicly.. Inbrief, she taught, me what I was beginning to Oood Bread Must Be Beat. suspect, but, no doubt would have taken a year or two to .verify the fact that in moulded white bread the sponge is a work of supererogation! Hovr to Slake White Bread. Since that lime I 4ave never used it Here is the manner in which I make white bread: To a pint of milk or a pint and a half it not in a hurry, I take a cake of Fleischman's compressed yeast I heat the milk (which must be fresh, I prefer the morning's milk), to a point just before boiling. I have heard old-fashioned cooks call it "to a scum." When the milk be gins to wrinkle I take it off and cool it to the tepid stage. Then I put some well sifted flour in a bowl. A quart of flour will do not more and you make take less I pour in the milk, a little at a time. I beat it vigorously with a wooden or a silver spoon. I take it to the door and beat the fresh air into it I go on in this way, beating and adding milk until I have 'a pretty batter which has no yeast in it, but bubbles with the honest fresh air that it contains. To this batter I add a half tea spoonful of salt Then I crumble up the yeast cake into a half teacupful of milk which I have taken from my pint and a half. If yeast is fresh and good it will crumble like stale putty; if it is stale itself, it will stick like fresh putty that is the difference between yeast and putty, I throw it in as an aid to memory. Good yeast acts like poor putty, to the touch, and poor yeast acts like good putty. Perils of Thickness and Thinness I mix the yeast with the tepid milk thoroughly. Then I pour it into the bat ter. I now beat again and more and more flour until the batter becomes a dough. Now comes peril I I wish to wave the first danger signal over a pit wherein I have stumbled no end of times You may make dough too thick or you may make it too thin! If you make it too thick you will have a closely woven bread that will shortly be given to the domestic animals! If you make it too thin you will see your shapely loaves spreading and lopping in a painful fashion, and in extreme cases rising on a level and running over the bread pans I am inclined to think the peril of thinues. is worse than the peril of thickness, for much may be done lor the' overthick bread by raising it longer, while the case of the overthin bread is hopeless ! Therefore I make a dough until I cannot stir longer. This dough I scrape out of the earthen bowl in which I have made it, on to a floured bread board. Enter "peril No. 2. You may be in haste &nd may not knead vour bread enough. Well, vou will be sorry if you don't,that's all! The texture of your loat will ue uneven; there will be ragged holes instead of a fine levity. Knead your bread therefore but you have no rea son to knead it after it has absorbed enough flour to work free of the board without flouring. Bntter to Keep the Air Inside. Then I butter a fresh earthen bowl, roomy enough to allow for the dough's ambition, and put the dough in it I always brush the top of the dough with the nicest of melted butter. This is to cover every inch of the dough with an air-excluding film; for here enters peril No. 3, a peril of the most awful character! On bread not protected by this oleaginous coat of mail, no matter how closely covered, it is 10 to 1 the air makes a stiff crust and that stiff crust will repres the ambition of the yeast germ as gently aud effectively as the editors re press "unavailable" genius. , Tha dough being protected, I cover it closely with a flannel cloth kept for the purpose and a clean white towel. The towel is underneath. I do not suppose it makes a particle of difference whether dough wears flannel for its underclothing or linen. Bread rises most satisfactorily, ac cording to traditibn, at a temperature of from 74 to 86; but I have used a much higher temperature with no evil results The higher the temperature the quicker the rising of the bread. I have made rolls in an hour and a half; and lam told Mibs Par loa makes delicious bread in an hour! The yeast germ on the whole is a tolerant soul; it will rise slowly and patiently in a cold room; it will climb nimbly upward in a warm room; but what it cannot abide is a jerky temperature. It hates draughts which act on its sensitive nature precisely as alternately whipping and checking acts on a mettled horse. I .have not been able to see anv difference in quality between the rapid and slower bread. Generally bread IKi -t TTTTSBURG dispatch, takes from two to four hours for its first rising. The Dnnirer of Overrljlnjr. Now comes peril No. 4 insidious and wicked. Mo3t cooks raise their bread too long. Cook is busy and she removes the dough to a cooler place, and it rises to the rim and bubbles over before she is ready. Some cooks push their bread back and have it rise another time. Bising so much takes the life out of bread. And everyone knows the tragic end of dough whose yaulting am bition o'erleaps itself; how it collapses with a clammy thump into a leaden mass that never hopes again. When dough begins to look transparent, when it has not JZhetHl JI Tlwroushtff. cracked on top, but shows that cracks are imminent, then I take out the dough and mold it slightly and knead it into loaves The shape of the loaf depends upon your fancy. Does one wish to eat the bread at once the French twist or the Vienna loaf are good shapes and easily managed. A pan comes for the French twist, that is to be found at most tinsmiths or furnishing shops For bread that is to keep, the so-called brick loaf pan has pleased me best I raise my lqaves in their pans an hour or a little less. An hour in most cases is quite long enough. I always brush the surface with butter as scrupulously as I butter the tins The common, but very fair, test for suffi cient rising in this case is whether the dough rebounds if pressed by the finger. An edu cated eye will soon learn the exact moment that is best to stop the raising. The Itules or Biking. Now oomes the baking attended by divers perils The oven can spoil the most carefully reared and beautiful dough. It should be a very moderate oven at the first, increasing in heat Until the bread has risen to its full proportions. It should rise gradually nd symmetrically. Bread too stiff with flour or bread too slowly baked, will crack. Bread too soft, invariably spreads Bread properly baked, will have a fine, firm, but not too thick crust on all four sides If you cannot attain such a crust in the pan, take the fully cooked loaf out of the pan and brown one side after an other. The value to the keeping qualities of the bread, is great enough to warrant the trouble that it may cost you. After bread to all intents and purpose is baked, I open the oven door, half-way, and let it (the bread) bake five minutes or so, longer. 01d-fa3iiioned cooks call this "soaking." It adds a final touch to the complete condition of bread; I may add that it is especially Important and that the five.minutes may be doubled without harm. I now finish my varnishing the loaf with milk or water. I paint it all ever with a large, flat brush. (I use the same kind of a brush to paint the dough with butter.) It should come out of the oven a Bightly loaf, snowy white within, a delectable, even brown without; and it should taste better even than it looks Octave Thanex. A WATCH ON YOUB SHOTODBE. VeryPrelty, Dnt Alio Very Convenient for the Light-Fingered. rWBITTZK FOR TIIE DISrATCH.1 Where do you think the swagger young woman is wearing her watch just now? Oa her shoulder, not on the top of it, to be sure, but just in front of the arm. The chatelaine attachment which used to fasten it to her belt is gone, and the watch is Where She Wears the Waiclu held In place by a brooch made for that purpose Tn the form of a true lover's knot, or th3 fleur de lis, and pinned.up conspicu ously on her shoulder, inside her wraps on her gown? Not a bit of it, outside where any passerby can see tho time o'day, and where it must be excellent prey for the skillful fingers of thieves A BAG MADE OF FAIT-WOEK. Pretty and Useful Article Any Nimble Tlnsered Girl Can Make. rWKITTEX FOil TUB DISFATCH.1 It may be called that because it is made out of a Japanese fan with the brass pin removedfrom the sticks, so that the entire fan lies fiat and smooth. Then the two outer edges are gummed firm ly together and a rib bon threaded in tho holes through which the brass pin passed and then drawn closely, giving the fan a conical form. Bibbons are then passed in and out be tween the sticks and tied in bows at the ter minus. Long loops oi ribbon suspend the lan bag at the top, and in side of it is set a paste board box lined inside in ana out witn silver pa- i-J per. and laree -enoueh to slip about halfway down in the recep tacle. Before the box is slipped in, the bag may or may not hare alining of this china silk drawn to a point inside. This little bag is used for spools and light needle work. Oar Fame Is Abroad Onoe Mora. Clothier and Furnisher. Winkworth I have a brand new suit of clothes that you can have, if you want to. It's aJittle bit light in color and I sha'n't ,ar it any more. Spindle Why not? Winkworth I am going to Pittsburg- to live. BOUDOIR, 1 t7Ln' ' fa??! pS uJt yvj-i aP sflsfr!eif!7mTtf STJNDAT, JAITTTAY 8, E FOR EVENING WEAR. Materials Both Ugly and Beautiful, hnt Fashionable Tho Clasilo In Shoulder Outline The Inartlstio Brocades Ele- Kant Things for Tonne; and Old. VVBITTJCN FOR TILE WSFATCn.1 New York, Jan. 2. Evening gowni this winter are more classic ihan French in shoulder outline. That is to, say, the pre vailing vogue is a rounded or oval outline of only moderate lowness, leaving enough width of waist over the shoulders to give the appearance of ample support Diaphanous fabrics and rounded necks are for the most part appropriated by the young. Older women like a waist devised to cover the.shoulders at the sides and yet appear low. For them there is the open point at back and front; the square front and high back, or the high back and sur plice front over a low chemisette. These waists go with rich, heavy and stately fabric. The season's materials are aome of them ugly and aome beautiful both equally fashionable. The perrennial brocade is here, and is a failure from the point of beauty. The reason for brocading a cloth is to enrich the material in its texture and color. This the brocades now on the mari ket do not do. They are of satin grounds with isolated bouquets in colors, or in gold or silver, and they look precisely like the same styles in wall paper. The effect Is preposterously bad. Making TJp a Brocaded Gown. But if you must have a brocade gown be cause it is fashionable, make it up by itself, or with plain satin with a ground of the same color. As a model for the brocade tha following design may be suggested: Make the back oi the bodice high and lay it in plaits on the shoulders Lay the front in 9 SfrM&rx .iil.aL W r-. mv v WSsiESiS; An Evening Gown. the same folds, and draw the opening to gether at the bottom of the front. In the shoulder seams, let the front be longer than the back by the space of the inside fold. Join to this fold a detached fold of the bro cade, which let pass round the baokin a soft roll or collar, which may be high or low, as becomes one most There should be no break in continuity where the folds join. The chemisette is of white satin with white lace laid over It, and may be as high or low as one pleases; but, whatever other outline it has, do not make it straight across; the eye demands to see it curve up ward toward the shoulder. The sleeve is of white satin, overlaid with lace, giving the effect of a lace chemisette over a sleeveless ;&.J'& as.z --W The Kewest Neck. brocade. It is simply made with seams,and meets the glove just above the elbow. The1 lower edge of the bodice is slightly pointed and finished with a belt of satin ribbon four inches wide, folded and fitted on. The rib bon ties at the back in a knot, without loops, and hangs to nearly the bottom of the skirt The ribbon may be of white, or of the pre vailing color in the pattern. The Amonnt of Material Boqnlred. The skirt has a train of 18 inches Make the plaits at the back carry the W line of the waist plaits down, a la princess. The shirt border may be of lace, laid overaTib bon of the color of the flowers in the bro cade. Sew two rows of lace along the edge of a four-inch ribbon. Let the under one hang, and festoon the upper one along the edge of the ribbon. A dress requires 15 yards of brocade, and ?2 a yard will buy a good one. Point lace and Irish points are in use. The Irish laces are not expensive. Perhaps the most beautiful of the heavy evening fabrics is bengaline. It is heavy A Dream in Brocade. and soft at the same time, and its undulat intr. corded surface is verv rich. Ladies' cloth of the same tint is often combined rlth i It, and lace may be used, but It ihould I Tl i! wA rtv'i yVAH fcVSL hmni vIHI vJrn flH v. Iiwiilv rPWIllPP' 1893. be made simply. White bengaline is superb for bridal dresses Chiffon, tulle and crepe, over satin of the same tint, are the materials used for young girjs There is required seven yards of these materials, where the satin is covered. The garnitures are flowers and narrow rib bons A gown from a French houseytwom by a debutante at the recent Patriarch's hall, is of white crape over white satin. The satin skirt is bell shaped and the crepe one is in very full, gathered breadths be hind. The crepe is hemmed. At tli3 foot A Greek Heck. of the front and sides is- a wreath of close pink tied with narrow watered ribbon of- the same color. The wreath is lifted slightly higher at the sides, and under it the crepe is cut to permit the adding of a little fullness below, toward the ends The bodice has the crepe shirred on. The shirrs run up and down around the waist The Philosophy of Gathers This is a mistake and produces no effect but that of a mere effort to use up material. Shirrs or gathers should be used only to confine the fullness upon the shoulders and about the waist, and such simply shirred bodices are very much in vogue. But it must be noticed that they do not hang of! the shoulders like the old "baby" waist, but are considerably higher and are drawn close round the top, to a fitted lining. Bodices for young women are round or else slightly pointed on the lower edge. They may be finished with a sash belt, fitted closely, and tied behind in a knot without loops, bnt with ends; or with an edging of narrow ribbon, tied into rosettes at inter vals, say three io ettes along the front and as many behind. The neck is finished with a garniture of flowers tied with narrow rib bon rosettes at intervals, for ball gowns,'or else a fall of Jace; or the shirring may be drawn up with a narrow ribbon and flowers be placed only on one shoulder. Sleeves are of the thin material only, simply made; either straight, with one seam or gathered very full puffed under. To make this puffed sleeve take material twice the length of the sleeve, and, gather ing the lower edge, turn it under and sew it also into the armhole, or to a short band at the armhole. It is simply a double ruffle. Sleeves reach nearly to the elbow. mmmt A SMrt Trimming. Simpler gowns, for less dressy occasions, are without any garniture. Garnltnre for a Ball Skirt A fashionable garniture for a ball skirt, here illustrated, has for foundation two bands of pink watered ribbons, to each of which is sewed a ruffle of tulle, the upper one the longer, and overlapping the under. Over each tulle ruffle is sewed one of point ,lace, the upper one festooned w'th pink roses and rosettes Pink roses are sewed close together along the upper band. A labric-that merits description is a flow erprinted mousseline de sole, which looks as if it came out of an impressionist's studio. The ground of one is of black. Over it are strewn crimson flowers that are grav in the shadows, and are mostly in the shadow. The crimson shows only here and theie in broken lights and half lights The shadows are lighter than the ground and are transparent, as shadows ought to be. The eye is caught on the surface of the texture only where the hish lights strike just as an artist would have it, and'where, here and therej polka dots of black silk are woven solidly in. It is charming, and it is characteristically French. This is the high water mark of French art in this direction this season. Such material cannot be made too simply. It wants no garnishing but a sash ribbon. This symphony in color print costs S3 a yard. Ada Bache Coke. THE FAD OF THE HO UB. Society People Have Gone Ftark Mad Over tho Emblem of France. rWBITTXX FOR THE PtSFATCH.l Seldom has-the decorative idea been so dominated and possessed by any one design as it is just now by the emblem of the golden lilies the fleur de lys of France. The fleur de lys is the iris or blue flag so well known in this country, and even better known in France. It was Louis VII. who adopted it as a part of his own coat of arms and gave it the name of fleur de lys, or Louis flow er.cadsing the.nati onal standard to be thickly strewn with it Two hundred years later Charles VL reduced the number to three, the mystical church number, and it then took the present conventialized form in which it appears to-day. It doesn't look much like the iris flower now certainly. And its lack of definite re sembla ce has troubled people before now. There was a time when the idea that it was intended for the blue flag was wholly re pudiated. Givillim, who wrote about her aldry and who even knew more things than he put into his books, declared that the de vice was never that of a flower at all, but that it was a conventionalized toad erect, leaping, which is the reason why Nostra damus in the sixteenth century called Frenchmen "toads." After that some wise men started the . theory that it was neither an iris nor a jumpinj toad, but a bee flying. These were Frenchmen who objected to be called toads. The young man and the young woman buy it in silver and gold for scarf pins, brooches and sleeve buttons It is worked into the newest wall hangings and four-in-hand ties and the thinnest lace bears its figure. Hat ornaments and foot-stools are in the shape ot tne neur de lys; prayer books are studded with silver heads in the same design. It is in drinking glasses and umbrella handles and thecoreriof books ad vajohat MM jj UVPICRir mmJam fpAPERS FOR clibII M fl ll 8 I E 1 I rfbnte of a Grateful MiatrcM to a SrT 3 Tribute of a Grztr fol Mistress to a Serran From the Sunny South. rWBTCTlk FOB THE DISFATCH.1 Twenty-seven years ago she came to me in a blue-checked sun bonnet A very dark cloud that turned into sunshine, and a white turban in the early autumn. In answer to my half-dozen questions, she said in the quaintest manner, "I is dun called Raspberry, caze dat is my name, and when I wakes up at rooster crowin'.time, ebery mawnin' now, I sez to myself, sez I git up niggah git up hress de Lawd yo isreel OIeVirginny is dun sole yo fo de last timet My ole missus dun treat me like her own sho nuf child'n! Yes miss, we wus twins Two ob us bawn, bofif ob us at one birf I One ob us, dat's me, had a raspberry mark on its back, an' de odder one. dat ain't me, had a strawberry mark on it When we wus bouter ten days ole, one ob us died, dat ain't me! Mammy, she cum in an' dun turner! us bofi ober! Den she' dnn grunted an' said .Raspberry is alibe, sho! Den dey toted Strawberry off to de graheyaid an' put her in de yawnin' grabe, an' Raspberry, dat's me, dun growd up." The magic spell around Raspberry's cradle left an indelible imprint that have not been effaced in the years that have gone by. Sometimes there has been aglitter in her eye, but never a sting in her. voice. Thestatelinessand pride that always ex isted in !he old slave servant has sow left her. She has always been proud of her Virginia mistress Proud of having been the property of a master who could afford to own her, and of a mistress who knew that white was white and black, black; She came to me with the swift, warm blood Each Proud of the Other. of health in ever vein. No cruel exact ness, because of her great knowledge of an art of which I was plainly so ignorant My home was located on a busy corner in alarge city. Soon there was a garden of riotous color and perfume. I had given her a parcel of ground overlooking the thronged street, at the side, to take the place of what I knew she must long for. Early in the spring it was alive. Later on it was bloom ing and -nodding poppies onions bach elor bnttons beets sweet williams-parsley bonncingbets, and Raspberry could be seen altogether peering through the iron fence paling "just a wunderin' if the judg ment day had sho'nough come." Years of joy and years of sorrow dawned and died. Raspberry was 12 years in ad vance of me. Now and then she would say: "Missis, I is growin' old bery old." But when she noticed threads of gray gathering about mv temples, she never mentioned it, even in the remotest way. Raspberry's Mistress, A POPULAR WOBK TABLE. Pretty Combination of Tnrnlturo and Needlework for the Snnjgery. I miiirixs for the dispatch, i By all odds the prettiest combination of furniture and needlework that has been made this winter is a work table like the cut It is of pine, enameled in white and decorated in pink and gold. Its form is the popular kidney shape, and it has two shelves Between the two is suspended the work bag, which is made of art cretonne, blue denim or some other substantial stuff. T,nere are .two - sticks nailed on the under sde of the upper shelf, meeting at an angle of about 60. On these two sticks the top of the work bag is nailed stoutly. The construction of the hag, by the way, needs a word. Gut the hag in one piece and fold as for any bag. Sew across the bottom and half way up the side. Then fold the upper corners slightly back on themselves, making what would be called "revers" if the article were a gon instead of a bag. When that is done yon will see that the shape of the bag at the top just fits the shape ot the cleats fastened on the under tide of the upper table. It would, no doubt, occur to you to fasten the bag to the cleats even If you weren't told to do so, because they look so as if they belonged together. When that is done gather the bottom of the bag together with a bow of ribbon, and if it is made right it will be a delightful bag with a wide, hospitable mquth, into which you can' slip things easily and where you will always be able to find things, a great desideratum in a bag. , III ILI H l Frnm thn Hnnnr Sonth. , r Enquire for Them. No housewife who has used any of Dr. Price's Delicious Flavoring Extracts but will mend them as the best 4 we domestic use. They are the leading flavor in America and should be on the shelf of every well regulated grocery. Enquire for them and do not take substitutes which if the nicest delicacies. Dr. Orange, etc., are just as s Anna L. Dawes Points Out the Dan gers in Women's Organizations. , THE FASCINATION OP HISTORY Leads to Dullness While Brilliant iddes Obscure the Subject WORK TO BEQUIRE OP flCH MBMBE1 rWIOTTZN FOR TH1 DISPJ.TCTT.1 In women's clubs aud societies there must, of course, be papers on all sorts of subjects I wish to put in a word of caution here that, in writing upon any one of tha divisions of any topic, it is not necessary to begin with Adam and the Garden of Eden! Five times out of six so much time is taken up with layinz foundations that none is left for present" conditions. A very brilliant woman recently began a series of lessons oa English literature, with Dobson and Lang, Tennyson and Browning, and gradually worked her way back to Spencer and Chaucer, declaring that this was the only way ever to reach the present times Soon after the bombardment of Alexan dria a certain club took Egypt for a subject, but so much time was occupied wit; its early sculptures, and the Hyksos Kings, that there was literally no opportunity for considering the political relations of tha nineteenth century. Such discussions should not be Greek temples, all porch. But figures aside in this case, the end is more im portant than the beginning. There is no ob jection it is probably best to leave out the early history entirely, or if necessary to touch upon it, it can be condensed into a paragraph. Even on these occasions where; a series of meetings gives opportunity for more attention to this part of a subject, it -should still be considered not by itself, but with reference to fnture history, not in any isolated way, Wit as the beginnings of their, present Tit ad TJp All Ton Cafl. Having plunged at once into the middle, of things, and filled your mind very full of the subject, three or four times as full as you can possibly need, do not take every point seriatim, nor give details of each. Classify your knowledge and group it to gether, if it is a composite subject, like tho "Natives of Alaska," the "Religions of India," or the "Poets of Italy," do not write an account of each tribe or group or individual, but give a phrase to general, characteristics, a paragraph to peculiarities, a description of hut one or two, and the de tails of about only the most significant or important. It it is theories to be dealt with, characterize each in one or two sen tences, give briefly their points of differ ence, or their line of development, and then explain the one now in vogue, or specially under consideration. Here also the ques tion of time settles all others Proportion must be observed when the limit is definite ly set before you. A few other points may be touched upon in passing. Special care should bs taken to avoid trespassing on the ground of another, even if the temptation of some sparkling gem lie directly in the path. No SppcIjI Pleading Allowed. On questions of theory or practice, one should refuse stoutiv to allow herself the , luxury of special pleading,, unless an actual decate is intended, it is, ot course, to bo eTpected and desired that every individual wiil mate her paper exhibit her own line of thought and interpretation, hut beyond this danger lies A paper of Tolstoi's stylo would necessarily tafee one side or the other of the question of realism, but the higher education of woman has no vital connection l with the Andover controversy, as within the iiicuiv. t ui numoij. uaa ucea couccivea to have. Nor. to take a less extreme case. is it necessary to bring the negro question into a survey of Southern literature. But it goes without saving that if either future probation or the Southern problem is to bo debated, that is another matter, and argu ment is not only perxnissable, but obliga tory. In general it may be said that quotations are a snare; they are indeed, attractive both as illustration of an author, and because they, say so well what we must say so ill. But the printed page is always longer than it looks, and there is a certain hurried dead ness abont the reading of it. which Is apt to produce a heavy effect. Perhaps reading Irom the book: themselves might be pro hibited, and tho extracts limited to such as . could bo copied, since the space occupied by written passages isa striking hint of their length n hen read. Statistics, too, should bo very few and far between, and tor the ama teur, always in round numbers, since tha " mind has a vexinjj trick of remembering the last number it hears. Condensatlon-Is a Good Thine. To sum up the whole matter ask yourself, first: What do I want to tell, or what havo I got to sayT Then after writing down tho answer to that question, read it over and. see what can be left out. Omit everything that is not necessary to describe your sub ject, explain your position or Justify your " argument AncLruthlessly destroy all those fascinating little side issues which occurred, to you as yon wrote, and which are so tell- , inc. even if not exactly pertinent, bu which also, let me remind you, so distract ' the attention of your audience. Keep to tho . point, whatever else you do. consider your limitations and let pi oportlon be your chief , aim. - , In closlne there is one Question to con sider and one duty to mention: The first has to do with the manazement of these organ- ' izations, the second with their members It is an open question worthy of careful -thought whether it is the true course for i such a society to get the best work it can. or the most worker". In tnose, smaller organ izations where the rules require the service of every member, the question disappears. But in misMonirv and philanthropic, and the Iarzer literary associations, it is an ever undecided point The best vv ork will always be done Dy tho ablest members a comparatively small cir cle. But the interest will be greatly In- , creased if fresh talent is brought to bear, and less experienced, or even less compe tent persons are invited to do their snare. The temptation Is great to secure a brilliant result, and it Is by no means easy to deter- t mine whether this is not, after all, the most useful method. Axxa L. Da wis" ' recom- articles of their kind m not poisonous will destroy.-J Price's Vanilla, Lemon, represented. i ' Ss ' sw? r& "v Llr4 A ' J --w r - " , . , - t , ' ( .V -
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers