'3npZ TeWt-,'
DELICATE US II LILY
let Strong as Diana, Is the French
Woman Who Is Kecognized
Mistress of the Stage.
SHE SLEEPS BUT FI7E HOURS
And Lores the Open Air, TTbflo Her Bath
Is a Rare Combination of Lux
ury and Hygiene.
EEST IS A COAXGB OP OCCUPATION.
Eer TVill Is Master and. L!ie Kapoleon, She
Hale Morpheus Come at Eer Seek
Can
rcoxExerCKDErci or thi msntrcml
N w Yoke, Jan. 2.
ARAHhas gone I And
with her a small world
of confusion. The throb
of suppressed excitement
at the theater, the whirr
and flutter of .French
vivacity at the Hoffman
House have given place
to a memory. Nor does
genius and accomplish.
roent alone feel the
recollection.
This great French
woman Is sensible, prac
tical, methodic, abso-
lutelv methodic, despite all the whirlwind
inconsistencies laid to her door. Witness
the good, plain sense, as exemplified in her
da.ly private life.
'Madame, hovr would yon define repose
rest?" inquired the writer, in a recent in
terview in maJame'a bedroom at the
Hoaman House.
Mi; Must Have Her Joke.
The immediate answer was a look. Snch
a loot! of archness and mischief, as only La
Bernhardt can give. The waywardness of
this unique nature fairly danced into the
eyes and for an instant she was like a
young kitten with a mouse.
"Par example," came next with a ripple
of mirth and fun. "Absence of reporters!
To be miles from that fraternity! Yoilal
There would be rest indeed!-'
But somewhere amid all the waywardness,
' btatf a warm heart, and when Sarah had
rehsaed her little Ehot at journalism, she
consented to get right down to business,
and proceeded to speak of her internal me-chsni-in.
"i-'.o(l. ah yes; that should come first
Ton oil Know that in France we breakfast
nu lit. Now my coffee and rolls come to
my bedside early. When I wake, you un
derstand, sometimes an egg I am fond of
egtjs i cat them frequently. But it must
healwavs v. ith regularity when I waken
when my mouth and face are freshened.
Hie Kreakfasts at Xoon.
"At 12 o'clock, always promptly, is my
breakfast, v hat you call luncheon a variety,
fruit", meats vegetables at C o'clock I have
a su and a chicken, or some small bird
and alwr-s the taMe set for six. It i after
the ia:i?ue of the theater at night that I
make nij htart - meal to recuperate strength.
This is r complete course dinner, invariably
with friend", though you would call it a
suppe-. W.-.ctcer on land or sea, in cities
or ia travel, these meals occur with system
atic rout ne. It is best so, four meals with
regularity, and not much it a time.
"How long does maaame sleep?"
".Five hours generally, in a cool room
without l.ght."
By the by, madame carries her own bed
linen with her everywhere plus an eider
down "comforter" quilted in pale pink
ratin, and innumerable small and large pil
lows of finest linen coverings, lace trimmed
and taonogramed. They are the last things
to be packed, wherever she goes, and the
first to be unpacked on arrivals.
Keeping tlie Ankles "VTaroily Covered.
"Some one has said that I do not take
much exercise in open air. Please correct
that statement I take exercise continually.
I live au grande air." From early morning
in traveling madame is up, some days
spendine the entire day in hunting or driv
ing, to get glimpses of new country, and
walking! Plenty of fresh air! That gives
Uy Idea o Rest.
vigor. Exerci'e! Walking out of doors in
thesunhine invariablv. There is no such
thing as genuine haaith without it But in
travel, everywhere, even "at home," look
ont for draughts
"With me goes everywhere a robe dur
ing rphears-jls. in driving, in sitting still
where t'le limbs are inactive, they have to
h covereiL Women are not careful enough
ttiout their ankles Gauze stockings, slip
pers, low shoes, and the dress falling this
way a::d that, they are sure to get cold.
Tiipy cannot be too careful about draughts
and covering warmly the ankles. And
Twircountrymen say "it is Teutonic' to do
with as little soap and water as possible.
Baht Tde very first thing I do after re-tun-in?
at eight from the theater is to take
my bath.
"llir Miracle of Xadamc's liath.
"Before visits, before eating, before any
thing a. thai iiour I bathe. The maid has
It in prpj-rat:n, plL First coes as a cover
ing over the tub a large white sheet; into
that liiod warm water is poured. Small
Fac; r-uta'uins finely grated soap in
small qj-niiiie-. of bran, or fine meal, per
fumed v, tl. a little orris root, are used in
place of a prne. They are covered with
fine cheesecloth, and when their contents
filter into t it v.aier it gives it a milk-white
whiten", a delicious odor and softens the
skin like : liab' 's Only a few moments in
the bath, om m.ruin; and night. The first
thing in te morning and late at night
When rpaily to step out, the maid has a
peignoir read), which m reality is a bath
rcbe made it craoli toweling. This is
heated and the bo iy enveloped in it Then
gently rubbed to get up a friction of the
skin.
"Sometimes at rehearsals I have a moist
rub don n uith the following prescription,
which is very refreshing : Tepid water, a
small quantity oi ammonia, borax, a dash
of cay rum, and the whole sweetened vvith
good "cologne, somr'irars violet, sometimes
ether things, so maay essences are sent to
me to try. It is a simple bath, but restful.
"Change is what constitutes rest, vou see,
my let 1 am never absolutely idle. If
signs oi ennui, fatigue appear, at one oc
cupation, turn to some other. It is not
necessary simply to do nothing in order to
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3P?f''!?s3,!BT?8SsiW?13KB,t,,?,Wi
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i
rest, but Tary what yon da Change the
subject of your thoughts, there is the secret
So Sleep in the Day Time.
"I never sleep in the day time. One is
jire to take cold in going out again. Will
yourself to vary your thoughts, and by will
and habit, learn to sleep at once when the
time comes. Napoleon could sleep at will
always. It is simply will and habit, and if
taken when needed is always refreshing.
To"u see, then, the secret of endurance is
carefulness and regularity and the complete
mastery of self; study to know how much
you can do, and through study you w ill be
astonished to find how much you are able to
do. But remember, vary your occupation,
change completely vour thoughts often.
And look out for colds. Colds are insidious
treacherous one can never count upon
the end of a cold.
"ily finger nails ah ! There is a little
woman in the Bue St. Honore, Paris, who
manufactures nail pomade to soften and
whiten them who has her ovr-n invention of
files. This red pomade comes in tiny olive
wood boxes, and is put on at night, taking
care to cover the nail with a thin coating of
this paste perfumed. In the morning wash
off what remains that has not been ab
sorbed but never use a nail brush it
ruins the" fine tender flesh about the finger
tips. A little cotton on the end of an or
ange wood stick will remove any impuri-
Plenty of Fresh Air.
ties or soil or stain. And never use scis
sors or knife. It hardens the nail to cut
them; makes them brittle.
Iler Finger Isallj Are Umber.
The little files I speak of are about fire
inches long and very thin and fine. They
are not to be had in this country, being an
exclusive manufacture of the little mani
cure in the Hue St Honore. Burnish your
nails with, chamois skin; It keeps them
healthy, and never use any hard substance
in cleaning them. Alwavs add the small
quantitv of cotton, and they will remain
both delicate in appearance and so limber
that they can be bent backward without
breaking.
"Too much water for the hands, without
other insredients. is injurious. Most skins
take well to oils or ungents A good thing
for the hands is equal parts of lemon, gly
cerine, a small quantity of borax and triple
extract of violet, to sweeten the whole.
Use this occasionally, but not for all times
and seasons "Vary it learn to know what
suits you best"
Jfme. Bernhardt prefers not to name
manufacturers of essences, as she uses
many, but would still have to leave out
some and advertise unduly others But
she has a strong penchant for odors manu
factured from roses She has an overwean
ing fondness for rose leaf perfumes, both as
sachets, i. e., the dried leaves salted and
the oil essences like otter of roses
Never Uses a Marketed Perfume.
Just now she has a predilection for what
is in reality an old fashioned rose geranium.
It is so penetrating that the impress of her
hand on your glove or shoulder inevitably
leaves the .trace of this perfume. She also
uses it through a spray on throat, hair and
gown.
You may always be fairly certain of one
thing in regard to her perfumes that they
are something distinctly her own when
placed upon the market she chooses some
thing else. For she is continually having
early productions of all sorts sent for her
approval or rejection.
You would hardly think of comparing the
divine Sarah to a Dresden shepherdess, now
would yon candidly and yet you see she
is as dainty as a bit of Saxomy, though as
healthy as Diana. VlKlsa.
HELPING THE FHYSIC1AJJS.
Mothers Often Deficient In the Description
of a Child's Symptoms
rwMTTEirrOSTHE DISPA.TCH.1
A well-known doctor once complained to
the writer that he had the greatest trouble
when treating sick children, in getting any
lucid and helpful resume of their symptom!
from day to day, from the mother. "Here
is a case in point," said he. "A few days
ago a young mother came to me about her
little boy, who had what she called a
pathetic little congh.' Now, patnos in a
cough is a symtom of which pathology takes
no.note. So I asked more definite particu
lars, 'what kind of a cough is it?' I asked
again.
'"Oh snch a pathetio cough,' the
answered.
'"But is it a loose cough, or a wheezing
cough or a tight cdugh, or a bark cough ?'
I persisted.
He Has a Pathetic Cough.
" 'I'm sure I don't know,' she said, sadlv
puzzled, 'but it is ajsad 'little cough.' And
that lb a tairsampie ot the way a great
many physicians find themselves puzzled
about babies. The mothers or nuises seem
to have so little skill in interpreting their
symptoms. "
A young mother with a first babv mav
find herself a little puzzled for the first few
weeks to recognize the most striking symp
toms in a baby's illness, but she ought soon
to be able to make a very intelligent diag
nosis of ordinary ills She ougnt to be able
to tell whether the baby is in acnte pain or
not and, in most cases, where the pain is
located; whether his cry is a tired cry or a
hungry one, or a sick one. She ought to be
able to take its temperature and its pulse
heats, as accurately as a physician, to dis
criminate its coughs ani vray of breath
ing. The condition of the bowels should lie
significant to her also, and even of the skin.
These are all matters that come with a little
attention in watching andalittle knowledge
in interpreting, and brains
If a physician has been called, the mother
should have a little hook in which she
should be able to note down all the most im
portant symptoms from hour to hour.
LOOK to your interest. You can buy Sal
vation Oil, the great pain cure, for 23 cents.
m3
' nTT JWWk
v
THE
THE TABLE. THE
CONFESSIONS OF A COOK.
OctaTe Thanet Owns Up to Ba$ I.nok With
Bread Four Dancer Sljnals Hnn? Out
Her Compliments to Mrs. Ewlns No
Cast-iron Knlrs.
rWRITTTJf FOR THB DISPATCH.!
It may not be an encouraging remark,bnt
an imperious conscience forces mo to con
fess that T was years puttering with yeast
and flour before I got beyond a hit or miss
knowledge of bread. Lite is too short for
me to begin to tell of the. many regu
lar, welI-appoved rules for bread that I
followed with anxious exactness, with
tremulous hopefulness, with discourage
ment, with exasperation, with despair.
Then I flung them all aside and experi
mented. I have tried hop yeast, I have
tried domestic yeast, I have tried a mucil
aginous compound of intoxicated potato. I
have tried the weird magic called salt rais
ing, I have tried yeast that comes bubbling
in a jug and the yeast that is left at the
front door in an envelope, "for the lady of
the house." Lastly, I have tried com
pressed yrast Xou can if the Lord has
given you a patient temperament make ad
mirable bread out of all these yeasty sub
stances, and yon can make perfect bread out
of the last!
Jio Cast-iron Rule for Teait
Without going into the scientific aspect
of the subject, I must say, in the beginning,
that there is no oast-iron rule possible for
yeast No feat of the cuisine demands
more of the eye than the making of perfect
bread. But-there is this compensation, an
eye once accustomed to the proper looks of
bread dough, in all its stages, is equal to
any kind of flour or any kind of yeast It
was my good fortune while I was struggling
with bread to meet one 6f the best bread
makers in the world, Mrs Emma P. Ewing.
I then had arrived at the point where I
could make a loaf of bread an exact copy of
either French or Vienna bread as I desired.
I did not see how Mrs Ewing's bread was
to be better than the bread that I had eaten
abroad; nevertheless,! went to her lectures
She did not teach me to make any better
bread than the bread of mv ambition, but
she did teach me to make the same bread in
a simpler and more speedy way; and I am
glad, after many years, to acknowledge my
obligations to her thus publicly.. Inbrief,
she taught, me what I was beginning to
Oood Bread Must Be Beat.
suspect, but, no doubt would have taken a
year or two to .verify the fact that in
moulded white bread the sponge is a work
of supererogation!
Hovr to Slake White Bread.
Since that lime I 4ave never used it
Here is the manner in which I make white
bread: To a pint of milk or a pint and a
half it not in a hurry, I take a cake of
Fleischman's compressed yeast I heat the
milk (which must be fresh, I prefer the
morning's milk), to a point just before
boiling. I have heard old-fashioned cooks
call it "to a scum." When the milk be
gins to wrinkle I take it off and cool it to
the tepid stage. Then I put some well
sifted flour in a bowl. A quart of flour
will do not more and you make take less
I pour in the milk, a little at a time.
I beat it vigorously with a wooden or a
silver spoon. I take it to the door and beat
the fresh air into it I go on in this way,
beating and adding milk until I have 'a
pretty batter which has no yeast in it, but
bubbles with the honest fresh air that it
contains. To this batter I add a half tea
spoonful of salt Then I crumble up the
yeast cake into a half teacupful of milk
which I have taken from my pint and a
half. If yeast is fresh and good it will
crumble like stale putty; if it is stale itself,
it will stick like fresh putty that is the
difference between yeast and putty, I throw
it in as an aid to memory. Good yeast acts
like poor putty, to the touch, and poor yeast
acts like good putty.
Perils of Thickness and Thinness
I mix the yeast with the tepid milk
thoroughly. Then I pour it into the bat
ter. I now beat again and more and more
flour until the batter becomes a dough.
Now comes peril I I wish to wave the first
danger signal over a pit wherein I have
stumbled no end of times You may make
dough too thick or you may make it too
thin! If you make it too thick you will
have a closely woven bread that will
shortly be given to the domestic animals!
If you make it too thin you will see your
shapely loaves spreading and lopping in a
painful fashion, and in extreme cases rising
on a level and running over the bread pans
I am inclined to think the peril of thinues.
is worse than the peril of thickness, for
much may be done lor the' overthick bread
by raising it longer, while the case of the
overthin bread is hopeless !
Therefore I make a dough until I cannot
stir longer. This dough I scrape out of the
earthen bowl in which I have made it, on
to a floured bread board. Enter "peril No.
2. You may be in haste &nd may not knead
vour bread enough. Well, vou will be
sorry if you don't,that's all! The texture of
your loat will ue uneven; there will be
ragged holes instead of a fine levity. Knead
your bread therefore but you have no rea
son to knead it after it has absorbed enough
flour to work free of the board without
flouring.
Bntter to Keep the Air Inside.
Then I butter a fresh earthen bowl, roomy
enough to allow for the dough's ambition,
and put the dough in it I always brush
the top of the dough with the nicest of
melted butter. This is to cover every inch
of the dough with an air-excluding film; for
here enters peril No. 3, a peril of the most
awful character! On bread not protected
by this oleaginous coat of mail, no matter
how closely covered, it is 10 to 1 the
air makes a stiff crust and that stiff crust
will repres the ambition of the yeast germ
as gently aud effectively as the editors re
press "unavailable" genius. ,
Tha dough being protected, I cover it
closely with a flannel cloth kept for the
purpose and a clean white towel. The
towel is underneath. I do not suppose it
makes a particle of difference whether
dough wears flannel for its underclothing or
linen. Bread rises most satisfactorily, ac
cording to traditibn, at a temperature of
from 74 to 86; but I have used a much
higher temperature with no evil results
The higher the temperature the quicker the
rising of the bread. I have made rolls in
an hour and a half; and lam told Mibs Par
loa makes delicious bread in an hour! The
yeast germ on the whole is a tolerant soul;
it will rise slowly and patiently in a cold
room; it will climb nimbly upward in a
warm room; but what it cannot abide is a
jerky temperature. It hates draughts
which act on its sensitive nature precisely
as alternately whipping and checking acts
on a mettled horse. I .have not been able
to see anv difference in quality between the
rapid and slower bread. Generally bread
IKi
-t
TTTTSBURG
dispatch,
takes from two to four hours for its first
rising.
The Dnnirer of Overrljlnjr.
Now comes peril No. 4 insidious and
wicked. Mo3t cooks raise their bread too
long. Cook is busy and she removes the
dough to a cooler place, and it rises to the
rim and bubbles over before she is ready.
Some cooks push their bread back and have
it rise another time. Bising so much takes
the life out of bread. And everyone knows
the tragic end of dough whose yaulting am
bition o'erleaps itself; how it collapses with
a clammy thump into a leaden mass that
never hopes again. When dough begins
to look transparent, when it has not
JZhetHl JI Tlwroushtff.
cracked on top, but shows that cracks
are imminent, then I take out the dough
and mold it slightly and knead it into
loaves
The shape of the loaf depends upon your
fancy. Does one wish to eat the bread at
once the French twist or the Vienna loaf
are good shapes and easily managed. A
pan comes for the French twist, that is to be
found at most tinsmiths or furnishing shops
For bread that is to keep, the so-called
brick loaf pan has pleased me best I raise
my lqaves in their pans an hour or a little
less. An hour in most cases is quite long
enough. I always brush the surface with
butter as scrupulously as I butter the tins
The common, but very fair, test for suffi
cient rising in this case is whether the dough
rebounds if pressed by the finger. An edu
cated eye will soon learn the exact moment
that is best to stop the raising.
The Itules or Biking.
Now oomes the baking attended by
divers perils The oven can spoil the most
carefully reared and beautiful dough. It
should be a very moderate oven at the
first, increasing in heat Until the bread has
risen to its full proportions. It should rise
gradually nd symmetrically. Bread too
stiff with flour or bread too slowly baked, will
crack. Bread too soft, invariably spreads
Bread properly baked, will have a fine,
firm, but not too thick crust on all four
sides If you cannot attain such a crust
in the pan, take the fully cooked loaf out
of the pan and brown one side after an
other. The value to the keeping qualities
of the bread, is great enough to warrant
the trouble that it may cost you.
After bread to all intents and purpose is
baked, I open the oven door, half-way, and
let it (the bread) bake five minutes or so,
longer. 01d-fa3iiioned cooks call this
"soaking." It adds a final touch to the
complete condition of bread; I may add
that it is especially Important and that the
five.minutes may be doubled without harm.
I now finish my varnishing the loaf with
milk or water. I paint it all ever with a
large, flat brush. (I use the same kind of a
brush to paint the dough with butter.)
It should come out of the oven a Bightly
loaf, snowy white within, a delectable, even
brown without; and it should taste better
even than it looks Octave Thanex.
A WATCH ON YOUB SHOTODBE.
VeryPrelty, Dnt Alio Very Convenient for
the Light-Fingered.
rWBITTZK FOR TIIE DISrATCH.1
Where do you think the swagger young
woman is wearing her watch just now? Oa
her shoulder, not on the top of it, to be
sure, but just in front of the arm. The
chatelaine attachment which used to fasten
it to her belt is gone, and the watch is
Where She Wears the Waiclu
held In place by a brooch made for that
purpose Tn the form of a true lover's knot,
or th3 fleur de lis, and pinned.up conspicu
ously on her shoulder, inside her wraps
on her gown? Not a bit of it, outside
where any passerby can see tho time o'day,
and where it must be excellent prey for the
skillful fingers of thieves
A BAG MADE OF FAIT-WOEK.
Pretty and Useful Article Any Nimble
Tlnsered Girl Can Make.
rWKITTEX FOil TUB DISFATCH.1
It may be called that because it is made
out of a Japanese fan with the brass pin
removedfrom the sticks,
so that the entire fan
lies fiat and smooth.
Then the two outer
edges are gummed firm
ly together and a rib
bon threaded in tho
holes through which
the brass pin passed
and then drawn closely,
giving the fan a conical
form. Bibbons are then
passed in and out be
tween the sticks and
tied in bows at the ter
minus. Long loops oi
ribbon suspend the lan
bag at the top, and in
side of it is set a paste
board box lined inside
in ana out witn silver pa-
i-J per. and laree -enoueh
to slip about halfway down in the recep
tacle. Before the box is slipped in, the
bag may or may not hare alining of this
china silk drawn to a point inside. This
little bag is used for spools and light needle
work. Oar Fame Is Abroad Onoe Mora.
Clothier and Furnisher.
Winkworth I have a brand new suit of
clothes that you can have, if you want to.
It's aJittle bit light in color and I sha'n't
,ar it any more.
Spindle Why not?
Winkworth I am going to Pittsburg- to
live.
BOUDOIR,
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sflsfr!eif!7mTtf
STJNDAT, JAITTTAY 8,
E
FOR EVENING WEAR.
Materials Both Ugly and Beautiful, hnt
Fashionable Tho Clasilo In Shoulder
Outline The Inartlstio Brocades Ele-
Kant Things for Tonne; and Old.
VVBITTJCN FOR TILE WSFATCn.1
New York, Jan. 2. Evening gowni this
winter are more classic ihan French in
shoulder outline. That is to, say, the pre
vailing vogue is a rounded or oval outline
of only moderate lowness, leaving enough
width of waist over the shoulders to give the
appearance of ample support
Diaphanous fabrics and rounded necks
are for the most part appropriated by the
young. Older women like a waist devised
to cover the.shoulders at the sides and yet
appear low. For them there is the open
point at back and front; the square front
and high back, or the high back and sur
plice front over a low chemisette. These
waists go with rich, heavy and stately
fabric. The season's materials are aome of
them ugly and aome beautiful both equally
fashionable. The perrennial brocade is
here, and is a failure from the point of
beauty. The reason for brocading a cloth
is to enrich the material in its texture and
color. This the brocades now on the mari
ket do not do. They are of satin grounds
with isolated bouquets in colors, or in gold
or silver, and they look precisely like the
same styles in wall paper. The effect Is
preposterously bad.
Making TJp a Brocaded Gown.
But if you must have a brocade gown be
cause it is fashionable, make it up by itself,
or with plain satin with a ground of the
same color. As a model for the brocade tha
following design may be suggested: Make
the back oi the bodice high and lay it in
plaits on the shoulders Lay the front in
9
SfrM&rx
.iil.aL W r-.
mv
v
WSsiESiS;
An Evening Gown.
the same folds, and draw the opening to
gether at the bottom of the front. In the
shoulder seams, let the front be longer than
the back by the space of the inside fold.
Join to this fold a detached fold of the bro
cade, which let pass round the baokin a
soft roll or collar, which may be high or
low, as becomes one most There should be
no break in continuity where the folds
join.
The chemisette is of white satin with
white lace laid over It, and may be as high
or low as one pleases; but, whatever other
outline it has, do not make it straight
across; the eye demands to see it curve up
ward toward the shoulder. The sleeve is of
white satin, overlaid with lace, giving the
effect of a lace chemisette over a sleeveless
;&.J'& as.z
--W
The Kewest Neck.
brocade. It is simply made with seams,and
meets the glove just above the elbow. The1
lower edge of the bodice is slightly pointed
and finished with a belt of satin ribbon four
inches wide, folded and fitted on. The rib
bon ties at the back in a knot, without loops,
and hangs to nearly the bottom of the skirt
The ribbon may be of white, or of the pre
vailing color in the pattern.
The Amonnt of Material Boqnlred.
The skirt has a train of 18 inches Make
the plaits at the back carry the W line of
the waist plaits down, a la princess. The
shirt border may be of lace, laid overaTib
bon of the color of the flowers in the bro
cade. Sew two rows of lace along the edge
of a four-inch ribbon. Let the under one
hang, and festoon the upper one along the
edge of the ribbon. A dress requires 15
yards of brocade, and ?2 a yard will buy a
good one. Point lace and Irish points are
in use. The Irish laces are not expensive.
Perhaps the most beautiful of the heavy
evening fabrics is bengaline. It is heavy
A Dream in Brocade.
and soft at the same time, and its undulat
intr. corded surface is verv rich. Ladies'
cloth of the same tint is often combined
rlth
i It, and lace may be used, but It ihould I
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1893.
be made simply. White bengaline is superb
for bridal dresses
Chiffon, tulle and crepe, over satin of the
same tint, are the materials used for young
girjs There is required seven yards of
these materials, where the satin is covered.
The garnitures are flowers and narrow rib
bons A gown from a French houseytwom
by a debutante at the recent Patriarch's
hall, is of white crape over white satin.
The satin skirt is bell shaped and the crepe
one is in very full, gathered breadths be
hind. The crepe is hemmed. At tli3 foot
A Greek Heck.
of the front and sides is- a wreath of close
pink tied with narrow watered ribbon of-
the same color. The wreath is lifted
slightly higher at the sides, and under it the
crepe is cut to permit the adding of a little
fullness below, toward the ends The
bodice has the crepe shirred on. The shirrs
run up and down around the waist
The Philosophy of Gathers
This is a mistake and produces no effect
but that of a mere effort to use up material.
Shirrs or gathers should be used only to
confine the fullness upon the shoulders and
about the waist, and such simply shirred
bodices are very much in vogue. But it
must be noticed that they do not hang of!
the shoulders like the old "baby" waist,
but are considerably higher and are drawn
close round the top, to a fitted lining.
Bodices for young women are round or
else slightly pointed on the lower edge.
They may be finished with a sash belt, fitted
closely, and tied behind in a knot without
loops, bnt with ends; or with an edging of
narrow ribbon, tied into rosettes at inter
vals, say three io ettes along the front and
as many behind. The neck is finished with
a garniture of flowers tied with narrow rib
bon rosettes at intervals, for ball gowns,'or
else a fall of Jace; or the shirring may be
drawn up with a narrow ribbon and flowers
be placed only on one shoulder.
Sleeves are of the thin material only,
simply made; either straight, with one
seam or gathered very full puffed under.
To make this puffed sleeve take material
twice the length of the sleeve, and, gather
ing the lower edge, turn it under and sew
it also into the armhole, or to a short band
at the armhole. It is simply a double
ruffle. Sleeves reach nearly to the elbow.
mmmt
A SMrt Trimming.
Simpler gowns, for less dressy occasions,
are without any garniture.
Garnltnre for a Ball Skirt
A fashionable garniture for a ball skirt,
here illustrated, has for foundation two
bands of pink watered ribbons, to each of
which is sewed a ruffle of tulle, the upper
one the longer, and overlapping the under.
Over each tulle ruffle is sewed one of point
,lace, the upper one festooned w'th pink
roses and rosettes Pink roses are sewed
close together along the upper band.
A labric-that merits description is a flow
erprinted mousseline de sole, which looks
as if it came out of an impressionist's
studio. The ground of one is of black.
Over it are strewn crimson flowers that are
grav in the shadows, and are mostly in the
shadow. The crimson shows only here and
theie in broken lights and half lights The
shadows are lighter than the ground and
are transparent, as shadows ought to be.
The eye is caught on the surface of the
texture only where the hish lights strike
just as an artist would have it, and'where,
here and therej polka dots of black silk are
woven solidly in. It is charming, and it is
characteristically French. This is the high
water mark of French art in this direction
this season. Such material cannot be made
too simply. It wants no garnishing but
a sash ribbon. This symphony in color
print costs S3 a yard.
Ada Bache Coke.
THE FAD OF THE HO UB.
Society People Have Gone Ftark Mad Over
tho Emblem of France.
rWBITTXX FOR THE PtSFATCH.l
Seldom has-the decorative idea been so
dominated and possessed by any one design
as it is just now by the
emblem of the golden
lilies the fleur de lys
of France. The fleur de
lys is the iris or blue
flag so well known in
this country, and even
better known in France.
It was Louis VII. who
adopted it as a part of
his own coat of arms and
gave it the name of fleur de lys, or Louis flow
er.cadsing the.nati onal standard to be thickly
strewn with it Two hundred years later
Charles VL reduced the number to three,
the mystical church number, and it then
took the present conventialized form in
which it appears to-day.
It doesn't look much like the iris flower
now certainly. And its lack of definite re
sembla ce has troubled people before now.
There was a time when the idea that it was
intended for the blue flag was wholly re
pudiated. Givillim, who wrote about her
aldry and who even knew more things than
he put into his books, declared that the de
vice was never that of a flower at all, but
that it was a conventionalized toad erect,
leaping, which is the reason why Nostra
damus in the sixteenth century called
Frenchmen "toads." After that some wise
men started the . theory that it was
neither an iris nor a jumpinj toad, but a
bee flying. These were Frenchmen who
objected to be called toads.
The young man and the young woman
buy it in silver and gold for scarf pins,
brooches and sleeve buttons It is worked
into the newest wall hangings and four-in-hand
ties and the thinnest lace bears its
figure. Hat ornaments and foot-stools are
in the shape ot tne neur de lys; prayer
books are studded with silver heads in the
same design. It is in drinking glasses and
umbrella handles and thecoreriof books
ad vajohat
MM
jj
UVPICRir mmJam fpAPERS FOR clibII
M fl ll 8 I E 1 I rfbnte of a Grateful MiatrcM to a SrT 3
Tribute of a Grztr fol Mistress to a Serran
From the Sunny South.
rWBTCTlk FOB THE DISFATCH.1
Twenty-seven years ago she came to me
in a blue-checked sun bonnet A very dark
cloud that turned into sunshine, and a
white turban in the early autumn. In
answer to my half-dozen questions, she said
in the quaintest manner, "I is dun called
Raspberry, caze dat is my name, and when
I wakes up at rooster crowin'.time, ebery
mawnin' now, I sez to myself, sez I git up
niggah git up hress de Lawd yo isreel
OIeVirginny is dun sole yo fo de last timet
My ole missus dun treat me like her own
sho nuf child'n! Yes miss, we wus twins
Two ob us bawn, bofif ob us at one birf I
One ob us, dat's me, had a raspberry mark
on its back, an' de odder one. dat ain't me,
had a strawberry mark on it When we
wus bouter ten days ole, one ob us died,
dat ain't me! Mammy, she cum in an' dun
turner! us bofi ober! Den she' dnn grunted
an' said .Raspberry is alibe, sho! Den dey
toted Strawberry off to de graheyaid an'
put her in de yawnin' grabe, an' Raspberry,
dat's me, dun growd up."
The magic spell around Raspberry's cradle
left an indelible imprint that have not been
effaced in the years that have gone by.
Sometimes there has been aglitter in her
eye, but never a sting in her. voice.
Thestatelinessand pride that always ex
isted in !he old slave servant has sow left
her. She has always been proud of her
Virginia mistress Proud of having been
the property of a master who could afford
to own her, and of a mistress who knew
that white was white and black, black;
She came to me with the swift, warm blood
Each Proud of the Other.
of health in ever vein. No cruel exact
ness, because of her great knowledge of an
art of which I was plainly so ignorant
My home was located on a busy corner in
alarge city. Soon there was a garden of
riotous color and perfume. I had given her
a parcel of ground overlooking the thronged
street, at the side, to take the place of what
I knew she must long for. Early in the
spring it was alive. Later on it was bloom
ing and -nodding poppies onions bach
elor bnttons beets sweet williams-parsley
bonncingbets, and Raspberry could be
seen altogether peering through the iron
fence paling "just a wunderin' if the judg
ment day had sho'nough come."
Years of joy and years of sorrow dawned
and died. Raspberry was 12 years in ad
vance of me. Now and then she would say:
"Missis, I is growin' old bery old." But
when she noticed threads of gray gathering
about mv temples, she never mentioned it,
even in the remotest way.
Raspberry's Mistress,
A POPULAR WOBK TABLE.
Pretty Combination of Tnrnlturo
and
Needlework for the Snnjgery.
I miiirixs for the dispatch, i
By all odds the prettiest combination of
furniture and needlework that has been
made this winter is a work table like the
cut It is of pine, enameled in white and
decorated in pink and gold. Its form is the
popular kidney shape, and it has two
shelves Between the two is suspended the
work bag, which is made of art cretonne,
blue denim or some other substantial stuff.
T,nere are .two - sticks nailed on the under
sde of the upper shelf, meeting at an angle
of about 60. On these two sticks the top
of the work bag is nailed stoutly.
The construction of the hag, by the way,
needs a word. Gut the hag in one piece and
fold as for any bag. Sew across the bottom
and half way up the side. Then fold the
upper corners slightly back on themselves,
making what would be called "revers" if
the article were a gon instead of a bag.
When that is done yon will see that the
shape of the bag at the top just fits the
shape ot the
cleats fastened on the under
tide of the upper table. It would, no doubt,
occur to you to fasten the bag to the cleats
even If you weren't told to do so, because
they look so as if they belonged together.
When that is done gather the bottom of the
bag together with a bow of ribbon, and if it
is made right it will be a delightful bag
with a wide, hospitable mquth, into which
you can' slip things easily and where you
will always be able to find things, a great
desideratum in a bag. ,
III ILI H l Frnm thn Hnnnr Sonth. ,
r
Enquire for Them.
No housewife who has used any of Dr. Price's
Delicious Flavoring Extracts but will
mend them as the best
4 we
domestic use. They are the leading flavor in
America and should be on the shelf of every well
regulated grocery. Enquire for them and do not
take substitutes which if
the nicest delicacies. Dr.
Orange, etc., are just as
s
Anna L. Dawes Points Out the Dan
gers in Women's Organizations. ,
THE FASCINATION OP HISTORY
Leads to Dullness While Brilliant iddes
Obscure the Subject
WORK TO BEQUIRE OP flCH MBMBE1
rWIOTTZN FOR TH1 DISPJ.TCTT.1
In women's clubs aud societies there
must, of course, be papers on all sorts of
subjects I wish to put in a word of caution
here that, in writing upon any one of tha
divisions of any topic, it is not necessary to
begin with Adam and the Garden of Eden!
Five times out of six so much time is taken
up with layinz foundations that none is left
for present" conditions. A very brilliant
woman recently began a series of lessons oa
English literature, with Dobson and Lang,
Tennyson and Browning, and gradually
worked her way back to Spencer and
Chaucer, declaring that this was the only
way ever to reach the present times
Soon after the bombardment of Alexan
dria a certain club took Egypt for a subject,
but so much time was occupied wit; its
early sculptures, and the Hyksos Kings,
that there was literally no opportunity for
considering the political relations of tha
nineteenth century. Such discussions should
not be Greek temples, all porch. But figures
aside in this case, the end is more im
portant than the beginning. There is no ob
jection it is probably best to leave out
the early history entirely, or if necessary to
touch upon it, it can be condensed into a
paragraph. Even on these occasions where;
a series of meetings gives opportunity for
more attention to this part of a subject, it -should
still be considered not by itself, but
with reference to fnture history, not in any
isolated way, Wit as the beginnings of their,
present
Tit ad TJp All Ton Cafl.
Having plunged at once into the middle,
of things, and filled your mind very full of
the subject, three or four times as full as
you can possibly need, do not take every
point seriatim, nor give details of each.
Classify your knowledge and group it to
gether, if it is a composite subject, like tho
"Natives of Alaska," the "Religions of
India," or the "Poets of Italy," do not
write an account of each tribe or group or
individual, but give a phrase to general,
characteristics, a paragraph to peculiarities,
a description of hut one or two, and the de
tails of about only the most significant or
important. It it is theories to be dealt
with, characterize each in one or two sen
tences, give briefly their points of differ
ence, or their line of development, and then
explain the one now in vogue, or specially
under consideration. Here also the ques
tion of time settles all others Proportion
must be observed when the limit is definite
ly set before you.
A few other points may be touched
upon in passing. Special care should bs
taken to avoid trespassing on the ground
of another, even if the temptation of
some sparkling gem lie directly in the
path.
No SppcIjI Pleading Allowed.
On questions of theory or practice, one
should refuse stoutiv to allow herself the
, luxury of special pleading,, unless an actual
decate is intended, it is, ot course, to bo
eTpected and desired that every individual
wiil mate her paper exhibit her own line of
thought and interpretation, hut beyond this
danger lies A paper of Tolstoi's stylo
would necessarily tafee one side or the other
of the question of realism, but the higher
education of woman has no vital connection
l with the Andover controversy, as within
the
iiicuiv. t ui numoij. uaa ucea couccivea
to have. Nor. to take a less extreme case.
is it necessary to bring the negro question
into a survey of Southern literature. But
it goes without saving that if either future
probation or the Southern problem is to bo
debated, that is another matter, and argu
ment is not only perxnissable, but obliga
tory. In general it may be said that quotations
are a snare; they are indeed, attractive both
as illustration of an author, and because
they, say so well what we must say so ill.
But the printed page is always longer than
it looks, and there is a certain hurried dead
ness abont the reading of it. which Is apt to
produce a heavy effect. Perhaps reading
Irom the book: themselves might be pro
hibited, and tho extracts limited to such as .
could bo copied, since the space occupied by
written passages isa striking hint of their
length n hen read. Statistics, too, should bo
very few and far between, and tor the ama
teur, always in round numbers, since tha "
mind has a vexinjj trick of remembering the
last number it hears.
Condensatlon-Is a Good Thine.
To sum up the whole matter ask yourself,
first: What do I want to tell, or what havo
I got to sayT Then after writing down tho
answer to that question, read it over and.
see what can be left out. Omit everything
that is not necessary to describe your sub
ject, explain your position or Justify your "
argument AncLruthlessly destroy all those
fascinating little side issues which occurred,
to you as yon wrote, and which are so tell- ,
inc. even if not exactly pertinent, bu
which also, let me remind you, so distract '
the attention of your audience. Keep to tho .
point, whatever else you do. consider your
limitations and let pi oportlon be your chief ,
aim. - ,
In closlne there is one Question to con
sider and one duty to mention: The first has
to do with the manazement of these organ- '
izations, the second with their members It
is an open question worthy of careful -thought
whether it is the true course for i
such a society to get the best work it can. or
the most worker". In tnose, smaller organ
izations where the rules require the service
of every member, the question disappears.
But in misMonirv and philanthropic, and
the Iarzer literary associations, it is an ever
undecided point
The best vv ork will always be done Dy tho
ablest members a comparatively small cir
cle. But the interest will be greatly In- ,
creased if fresh talent is brought to bear,
and less experienced, or even less compe
tent persons are invited to do their snare.
The temptation Is great to secure a brilliant
result, and it Is by no means easy to deter- t
mine whether this is not, after all, the most
useful method. Axxa L. Da wis" '
recom-
articles of their kind
m
not poisonous will destroy.-J
Price's Vanilla, Lemon,
represented.
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