iw5? ifSW-S&-. THE PITTSBURG DISPATCH,- " SUNDAY, JULY 7.,-J- . r 1891. 13 lip - ftp FANCIES FOR THE FAIR. "What I nelnff AVorn by the Devotee of J-anliion Beauty's ITavorite Draperies Costumes for the Summer New Notions in Dress anl Millinery. Did you e er think of the enterprise ex pended in the production of new things in drew and millinery? The work is. endless, for a new thing soon grows old. An ideal may he reached, hnt uo sooner is it reached than it ceases to be an ideal and the tired brain that conceived it must set up another ideal to be attained only by the exercise of a cultivated taste and wonderful ingenu ity, seasons come and seaon go, eai.li with its new necessities for beaut' draperj, aud even now when the roit of humauitj is seeking recreation in nature's soothing retreats the fashion artists are delxing the heat and working hard as eer. A white chip hat for beach or country is shown in the first illustration. It has a crown eucirckd with a very full ruche of white chiffon muslin, made of doubled strips fi e inches wide. The brim is caught tip w ith a chiflon rosette. A spray of corn flower dronps toward the front. The drawing is from Harper's JSazar. Nothing in the feminine wardrobe is just io more perplexing or interesting than the (lirt, sa a the New York Frets. For a long time the bodice has been the central figure around which the most novel and seductive ideas have clustered. Now it is the skirt and its limitless innovations in the way of flouncings, fan insertions, festoons, frills and paniers. To give the modern affair, with its sheath-like gores and deim-train, an artistic effect is to proclaim j ourselt an expert. It is one of the most difncult pieces of work in dressmaking. Tins all the best modistes declare with emphasis to be a fact. Just let the scissors take a wrong turn and your skirt is ruined. Even the slightest mistake is disastrous to the correct hang. There is an art, a knack, which only comes from long practice in cutting. For this reason we meet with gowns every day that are totally devoid of that mjstenous'something we call "style." The skirt is at fault. It shows at a single glance amateur dressmaking. A Frettx Summer Toilet. The skirt is an important feature of the crepe and surah gown here shown. It is a beautiful summer Iff toilet of gray crepe embroidered with pink rosebuds; it is mounted over pink taffeta and trimmed with pink surah. The skirt is bell-shaped, bias at the back, and is hlashed at the bot t o m, displaying pink surah betw een the edges. The full crepe bodice has a corselet of surah, with jeweled em broidery at the edgesand a pointed collar and deep cuffs to match. A Cleopatra girdle with fringed ends bancs at the right of the front It is a design from Harper's Bazar. Apropos of the skirt the New York ITerald Mvs the beauti-'s of Gotham have adopted.! substitute forthe hustle. It is the same old bustle cut in two, and the two halves moved around one on each side. A lady who knows all about such things said she had one on herself, and whec the reporter com mented on her increased robustness she laughed, blushed, and said: "It's not me, it's rubber. Inflated pads are the lates craze, and one that is becoming popular with remarkable rapidity. The pads are made of inflated rubber bags. They nrenotsoinconvenientas theold time bustle :md not much more of a n isanee to wear. Go down Fifth avenue anyday and you will be surprised at the number of remarkably broad women you will meet Thcyhae grown wonderfully stout in the past month." 'Why do they do it?" "Oh, "the great advantage to be gained in appearance is the smaller look it gives to the waist. I don't think there is any other reason. That's quite enough for any woman. The fashion has its serious drawbacks, too. Sometimes the pads slips around, and the effect is unpleasant. Again, too, I am al ways in fear that a pin will puncture one. of the" things, and that one side of me will go off with a loud report. You can imagine how lop-sided one would look after such an accident. It's horrible to think of." Beautiful tare Fichu. The summer wrap illustrated next is made of white lace 11 inches deep and yel low ribbons The lace is in three pieces one a yard and seven-eighths long, and the other two a yard and five eighths. The longer forms the upper Tart of the fichu, lor which the lace is taken lengthwise. This niece is nleat- tf a ed into a space of I tf& an lnca 'm a half Cftflfe- jit the waist in the back, and at the ends at the waist in tront, and on the shoulders the width is shirred together to within four inches of the scal loped edge. The home dressmaker will readily catch the other points of the design from the illustration. Speaking of lace recalls a recent inter view witn a lace importer, published in the St Louis Globe-Democrat. The impression, he says, that the most valuable collection of laces'ou this continent is held by the Van derbilts is erroneous. There is a ladv living in Jlexico City who can justlv cfaim to have the moat aluable, as well as interest ing, collection of any other person in the Americas. She prizes it at $S00,000, and I guess it would bring nearly that much in the open market. The ladies of the Van .lerbilt family hold goOO.000 w orth of real laces, most of which came from Belgium. Germany and Austria. The collection of the Mexican lady includes rare bits from every celebrated maker, and fragments once owned bv the rov3l families of every coun try in Uurope. The collection- contains ihej most complete assortment of Spanish; Old Moorish, Egyptian, Persian and Chinese w ork there is in existence. The Yanderbilt collection comes next. The ladies of the Astor families hold $300,000 worth of fine laces. Mrs. A. T. Stewart owned ?200,000 worth. Mrs. August Belmont treasures a collection equally as valuable. Vice Presi dent Morton's wife has ?100,000 in delicate bits, and Mrs. Marshall O. Roberts and ex Secretary "Whitney's wife nave notable col lections. Something Neat in Capes. A light cape, much in favor, is made without lining and with the edge smoothly cut, so that the bulk of a hem is avoided. These capes usually have decorated yokes and are often est noted in silver, dove, blue gray, wood, olie, old rose, steel blue, sapphire blue, and very light golden brown cloths. Of course, theyoke and collar require a lining, and that is usually of soft silk matching the cloth in the cape. The ease with which a cape may be as sumed and the amount of protec tion it will give, make it take the place of the various fancy shawls that for many years have been in vogue at the seaside aud mountain resorts when it grew cool in the evening. A Span ish woman may know how to arrange her mantilla gracefully, but the American girl generally looks bundled up in her white shawl, so that in a picturesque cape there is a decided change for the better. Then a cape that is at once comfortable and pretty is of much use. It needs to be full, it wants to be simple, and yet this Is always required it must be becoming. Dark blue, brown, olive, black, lincoln green and a very deep red are fancied for cloaks that are to be worn on journeys by land or sea. The long ulster for traveling by land w as rather warm, and yet something is required to put on at the end of one's journey so that one may not look, as a little woman once expressed it,, "altogether smudgy." The "picturesque cape illustrated just above, is the ideal traveling one, says the T surllttr ZTXkviit Tsvttvrtrrt Tf id mnila rt nort" Wv MUWf (Wlift Ladies' Home Journal. It is made ot dark blue cloth; lined throughout with a light quality of very dark red silk. It is full, raised and plaited on the shoulders and has a monk's nood lined with the red, which may or may not be worn as is fancied. With this is a high collar that rounds quite low in the front, and long loops and ends of blue ribbon are knotted just below it and seem to fasten the cape, although in reality a strong pair of hooks and eyes first do tliat service. The hat is a blue straw, with a bit of red silk drawn under the crown, and having just in front a bunch of blue flowers, while at the bacU are high loops of blue ribbon from under which come the narrow blue strings that are knotted under the chin. A cape, made after' this style, and intended not for travel ing but for evening wear at the seaside, is of scarlet cloth lined with scarlet silk, and will make its wearer look like that most de lightful character of fiction, Little Red Ridinghood, An Egyptian Tea Gown. The tea gown shown immediately below is made ofchaIlie,with one of the Egyptian designs tnickly cov ering its white ground. It is fitted to the figure in princess . fashion, and has a slight train. Just in front is inserted a long gile. of white chal lie, gathered in full at the neck and con fined to the waist bv a ribbon girdle which crosses it and hangs in long loop and ends on one side. The fronts are outlined as far as the waist by a tiny frill of white lace, and a similar frill is the finish about the neck above the high collar. The sleeves are very full, and high on the shoulders, are of white challie, and drawn into deep pointed cuffs of the figured material, that hax e for a hand finish trills of point-d'esprit lace. One does not have to look twice at this gown to be certain of its prettiness, and it is only necessary to think once to realize exactly how inexpensive it is. "But," says somebody, "the white will soil so easily." Well, not necessarily. You can wear it through the pleasant summer time, and when the cooler days come, you can remove the white and insert scarlet or blue, as is must uecoining, ana your tea gown is ready then to do service during the autumn and winter. In a striped silk, in a plain material, or in a dark plaid a good result could be obtained; but as the Egyptian colorings and designs are so much in vogue one might as well choose for ma terial that which has the charm of novelty as well as the virtue of usefulness, being in the fashion not costing any more. The il lustration is from the Ladies' Home Journal. JNo matter how one is dressed, without native grace beauty is lost But here is a bit of encouragement from an artist He says: "A girl who sits ungracefully is a rarity. The sex's pose in a chair arc in stinctively and unconsciously sightly. Then why will not girls practice a good carriage? They spend hours of prayer and effort over their bangs aud their makeup, yet everybody knows a fine figure is the most important requisite of alL Good car riage induces a good figure: It throws such lines as yon have into an adjustment of harmony. It will make your dresses fit bet ter, last longer and look finer while they last A head well carried comes soon to he 'well poised.' Shoulders well squared back fill up j our bodice and impro e your silhouette as well as vour nrotile. Hin well balanced make your gowns drape trrace fully In spite of your dressmaker. "Feet that come down to the cronnd prettily come near to being pretty feet" the equatorial regions of the- Dark "Con tinent whole villages are occupied with their cultivation, and that with bananas they are used by the natives as their com monest food. To the Egyptian the water melon is said to be both "meat and drink." And so, but to a less extent, are they used in large sections of Asia. In France their culture, as adapted to the higher grades of civilization and to a people of different habit, is thoroughly understood. They are there prepared in various ways, a melon sauce being frequently served with boiled meats. The melon of any species readily parts with its most desirable qualities; the ol'der it is, or the longer it stands after being pre pared for use, the more of its sweetness and flavor is lost A real gourmet, whether he be a Parisian or a Georgia darkie, will not touch a melon that has stood for 24 hours. The negro possibly exemplifying the in stincts of his ancestors on the banks of the Kongo, will thrust his jaws into the pulp of the broken melon and secure its sweets with animal-like avidity; while - the refined epi cure wants it with his palate fresh and sen sitive, and, for the same reason, will take it before soup. Ice in the Musk-Melon. Musk-melons grown in this locality are not ditficult to get, and these may be served shortly after they are taken from the vine. They should be kept on ice before they are served, but not too long, else they lose their flavor; and in no instance snouia tney oe filled with ice. Nothing except age and de cay so robs them of their perfection. The same rules hold as to the cantaloupe, re- Igarded by many as' the finest variety of the tn.mil v "Tint this ifi nnlva matter of taste. Either of them may be served as a dessert, seasoned with sugar, ginger or salt and pepper ' A perfectly fine melon is full without any vacuity. This can be determined by tapping it on the rind. In choosing a muskmelon or cantaloupe, observe that the network of the skin is rough. Vhen cut open the skin should be slightly moist, not watery. The small ones have the finest flavor. The use of the melon as a prepared fruit is undoubt edly becoming more common; in a preserved state they are recognized as one or the most agreeable sweetmeats, and some cooks have ingeniously succeeded in making them into stews and fritters. But without much trouble a very palatable salad may be made of insipid melons, unfit for dessert Cut the edible parts into small slices and serve with irenen dressing, xne juice ot tne water melon, properly extracted, is frequently prescriDea in cases oi lever, jluc juice rau be extracted readily by puncturing the rind not cutting the melon into slices. The juice is likewise used as a cosmetic, and gives a pleasant suppleness to the skin. It also enters into the composition of some of the finest French pomades. ' Oatmeal a s Drink. "With the season of sunstrokes at hand the following recipe from the pen of the late Dr. Parkes, an eminent English physi cian, may prove a blessing to workingmen especially to those who must bear the heat and burden of the day in mill or har vest field. It is said by those who have tried this drink that they could accomplish more work than when using beer, and were physically in better condition. The proportions are a quarter pound of oatmeal to two or three quarts of water, ac cording to the heat of the day and the work anu tmrst; it snouia oe weu Doiiea, ana tnen an ounce or one and a half ounces of brown sugar added. If you find it thicker than you like add three quarts of water. Before drinking it shake up the oatmeal well through the liquid. In summer drink this cold; in winter hot. You will find it not only quenches thirst but will give you more strength and endurance than any other drink. If you cannot boil it you can take a little oatmeal mixed with cold water and sugar, but this is not so good; always boil it if you can. If at any time you have to make a very long nay, as in harvest, and cannot stop for meals, increase the oatmeal to half pound or even three-quarters pound, and the water to three quarts if you are likely to be very thirsty. Blackberry Cordial. THE AIR' IS RESTFUL Octave Thanet Has Found a Summer Resort That Meets Her Ideal. IT IS UP IN NEW BRUNSWICK. !A"Series-of Yankee Invasions and the Im portance of the last One. HISTORY OP ST. ANDBEWS-BY-THE-SEA rcORBESrONDENCE OT THE DISrATCB. St. Andbews-by-the-Sea, July 2. It is not such a simple thing as it seems to decide where one shall "Spend the summer. "We decided on the strength of a friend's letter to come to St Andrews, 2T. B. To reach this place you can take the railway or aline of "palatial Bteamers." They may be palatial for anything we know; my sea manship is so low and degraded that I never try to make it keep company with anything palatial on the water; therefore, we choBe the cars. Palatial is not the appropriate adjective for them. Tt is interesting to a traveler to watch the career of cars; to meet with the old friends of his youth, long since departed out of his accustomed ways of travel, in the byways of the North and South. Myself, I almost shed tears of recognition when, after so many years, my eyes again fell on the once admired dark red plush cushions and gilded black walnut and narrow berths. like a Long lost Friend. "It is," I exclaimed to my friend; who was gazing about her with emotion, visibly indicated by a frowning brow and curling lip, "it is the long lost sleeping car of my childhood! I know in the toilet room are the towels about the size of one's hand and the lock that will not turn to lock the door in the first place and will not unlock it in the second, so you feel like the Prisoner of ChiUonfora quarter of an hour at a time I "We do wrong, "West," I mnsed in a senti mental Sterne's Yorick's vein, "we do wrong to abandon the old friends that have worked so hard for us, as soon as more com fortable cars are invented. You see. J . they cling to the old fashions, indeed, from the appearance of those seats, I should judge that whole families with liberal lunch baskets had clung to them; they are con- The following makes an excellent cordial and will be found invaluable for summer complaint: Take two quarts of Juice of fresh blackberries, add one pound of loaf sugar and one ounce each of the following spices: Pulverized nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves and allspice. Boil together a short time, and when cold add a pint of best brandy. Uottlo and administer several times a day in tea spoonful doses. Gelatine Padding. Hake a costard with the yolks of four eggs, a nint of milk and sugar to taste. Soak one-third of a box of gelatine in a little cold water. Dissolve it by adding three-fourths of a cup of hot water. Add the gelatine and the whites of thn cges well beaten to the cold custard. Hold and set in a cool place to stiffen. "Whipped Cream. Put a pint of rich cream in a vessel, and if the weather Is warm place on ice for half an hour. Then beat until stiff and thick. Good cream may rise and become stiff in five minutes. Ci earn that does not become stiff after 15 or 20 minutes is not good or not cold enough. After it is beaten add four ounces of powejored sugar, mixing it gently, and flavor to taste. If wanted i ery stiff add half ounce of gelatine. Keep cold until ready to serve. Blackberry Jam. To each pound of berries take a pound of sugar. Stir well together and let stand for half an hour; then boil them slowly, mash inir them and stirrinsr freauentlv. Boll for 30 minutes or until it shows the consistency of stiff jelly. Carrot Preserve. Cut and prepare carrots in long, thick pieces. Simmer them slowly in sweet cider, reduced two-thirds, for seven or. eight hours. Excellent Tomato Soup. One auart of tomatoes, one carrot, two smau onions, Dutter size oi an egg. CHOOSING A MELON. It Should Sonnd Solid, and ir Muskmelon Have a Bough Skin The Gourmet Must Have It Fresh Oatmeal as a Refreshing Summer Drink. CWniTTES FOB TOE BlSrATCH. Helons of the more common kind, known as watermelons, are, among the people of our latitude, classed as luxuries. Cool, succulent, high-flavored and delicious to the taste, they are not, if used to excess", a wholesome frnit In the hot regions of the world usage and adaptability with other circumstances have made them necessaries, and we learn from Dr. Livincstone. I?rof. 0. UUblCL D,4t3 Ul Ull C1K. OICW together until tender and pass through a sieve, season to tasi witn salt ana pepper, add a teaspoonful of brown sugar, and thicken with a little flour dissolved in water. Serve with bread sippets. Cucumber Catiup. Grate 12 good sized cucumbers (pared) and four onions. Mix well, drain off the liquor, add four tablespoonfuls salt, three of ground pepper. Pour in three pints of good cider vinegar. Cork tight and seal atter bottling. String Beans. Preparatory to cooking string beans break off both ends of the pod, and after stringing pare both edges lightly with a sharp knife. It shows a slovenly and careless habit if the stringy fibres are left, and to fastidious eaters nothing can be more disagreeable. The en tire dish is often rejected when the un pleasant and thankless labor of separating the strings is thus contemplated. In Europe, especially in Germany, France and Holland, wfiero by far the greator portion of those lezumes is consumed, thev are used in the green state; if not for present use, they are prepared in the same state for use in the seasons when they are not growing. Conse quently moro care is there taken in their preparation. The French cooks have a method of cooking them which is regarded very ilno and even dainty. What is most de sired Is the green, juicy pod rather than the, more mature fruit or, as we commonly say, the bean for the pod and the seed together arc strictly in this sense the bean. Tho beans ale thus taken from the vines before tho grains within are scarcely formed. When cooked in this state they nre seasoned simply with pnmo butter, salt and pepper. Baked Eggs, Southern Style. Hub a pan with cold butter. Take three or four eggs, break into cups, cover with the creased pan, and turn over quickly so as to bring the cups inverted in the pan. When the butter melts add a little water, lift each cup a little without allowing tho egg to es cape. Cook four minutes and remove the cups. Serve hot. I append some recipes for frugal dishes: Tomatoes and Ham. Fry slices of cold boiled ham. Then fry some tomatoes, allowing one tomato to each slice of ham and season with pepper. Kice Muffins. One cupfnl cold rice, one pint flour, two eggs, one tablespoonful salt, one quart milk, or enough to make a thin batter. Beat hard and bake quickly. Breakfast Cake. Take two cupfuls of sifted flour, add a cupful of milk, two beaten eggs and a pinch of salt Bake in genl pans. l Potato Carry. ' Hash cold potatoes with minced onion, salt, pepper and curry powder to taste. 1'onn into small balls with egg and bread crumbs, fry crisp and serve with rich gravy, flavored with curry powder Kllicx Serena. tented with modest accommodations. I feel myself back in a primitive, frugal, Spartan time when we saved our money and four Eeople occupied a section. I almost am em oldened to oner the porter the unostenta tious ante bellum quarter instead of the usual dollar." J merely remarked that she wouldn't; and on reflection, I didn't. Too much de pends on the porter's opinion to experi ment on it Of course, on these cars, they burn lamps of extraordinary heat-giving power; and of course there are no screens or brakes, but then, the window fastenings have something the matter with them that prevents raising them, so it really does not matter. "We are so Philistine and material in the "West, where I live, that we grumble abont such trines ana aemana electricity and screens and "breakers" and vestibules and ventilation, to any extent; but, East, a cultured, Christian population seems to ac cept them without a murmur. The Town of a Bead Generation, St Andrews is not a day from Bangor. but it is half a century from our civiliza tion. A peaceful, decayed old town, where the weather may paint the house walls, where boarded windows and sagging lintels and moss-grown roofs tell ot deserted ware houses, where grass waves in the wide streets, where old-fashioned flowers grow in old-fashioned gardens and forgotten schooners lie careened below Xh e rotting wharves; it looks the town of a dead genera tion cast for a busy port, but by some impish freak of fate robbed of its destiny and so sunk in a Rip Van "Winkle lethargy beside its beautiful bay. Onlv the hucre hotels loomintr on the hill sides disturb the image. They. are all J modern; but below, in the straggling checker-board of sfreets that dot the penin sula, are 100 quaint intimations of age and different race. The shops have odd names and signs; the verj; wares have a foreign aspect. One shop window displays quanti ties of Wedgewood and Beleek at astonish ingly low prices, imported directly. Every one carries away a souvenir of St Andrews from here. The other souvenir that one should bring away is an Indian basket. Where the little park slips into the bay, in a grove of pines, are set the Indian tents, and there some families oi Indians weave baskets out of the sweet grasses and stained withes. Daintier or queerer baskets one cannot find in Montreal or Quebec. Shopkeepers Are Not Brigands. It is pleasant prowling about the shops, because the shopkeepers are so invariably courteous and do not seem grasping, after tne manner oi ineir kidu in pleasure resorts generally. They actually appear to hae only one price for their goods, whether you are a a citizen or a stranger. Mow, in St Augustine (to which our minds instantly turn when the pillage of travelers is dis cussed) one tradesman frankly told us that they had three prices; one for the dwellers in the town, one for the cottagers and one for the "rank strangers," each price climb ing a little higher on the golden stair. If there be pillage in St Andrews it is so deli cate, so slight that it shrinks out of obser vation. The town as it is now was laid out by the refugee loyalists from the States in 17b0 Straightforward old John Jones, surveyor for the Crown, cut its avenues at right angles and divided the town by three streets (50 to 80 feet wide) into 60 blocks, each 320 feet square. To every dwelling house pertains a yard, and to every yard, flowers. How the flowers grow in these sandy soils! The old-fashioned darlings of our childhood we can meet again, jostling each other in the untrimmed gardens. Not only in gardens; on the window sills, in the porches, on the wee stoops, the colors dance before our eyes. "They only have a teaspoonful of room on their porches," says J , "and they fill it with geraniums. " A City of Wonderful Drives. hideous cry and so ran away all into the woods." This was the first Massachusetts invasion. At the close-of the some century came an other company of 'JNew Englanders, loyal ists who fled from the States after the col onies were declared independent. They converted the fort and trading posts into a town. Stanch old Parson Andrews, bearing with him the royal arms that he had taken from his Connecticut church, affixed them above his new pulpit, and the faithful of his flock gathered about him tinder the Union Jack. So many years hav passed that even the descendant of a revolution ary parson and the descendant of a Puritan soldier may admire their unconquerable fidelity to their consciences. The Glories of tho Past. Parson Andrews' son married the daughter ui xousu omcer, tnus acquiring .Minister a Island, the beautiful island that is still the family estate. One day, J and I called at the cottage where the present head of the family lives. The old mansion was burned, years ago, and the family moved to a farm house which, enlarged and improved, ia their dwelling now. It looks like an Englishcottage; and, sitting in the pretty, old-fashioned drawing room, amid the claw footed tables, the old miniatures and the old china, facing the rosewood spinet on which Parson Andrews' daughter may have played Handel's melodies to her soldier lover; with the soft-voiced, erav-haired gentle woman opposite, the faded glories of" ot. juiarews seemed to ungnten into a semblance of the past , Short-lived glories they were. The forests once plundered, the shipping' trade de parted. A sanguine citizen built a railway into the woods, But he squandered his fortune and the iron rails never knew the sound of wheels. There followed a period when the town was "the sleeping beauty by the sea." Canadians came to it, summers, but apart from the ripple of their gaiety, nothing stirred the monotony of life. Then there came Tho Last Yankee Invasion. WOMM GOING WONG The Wirepulling and Bickering of the Modem Clubs Destroy MORAL AND PHYSICAL BEAUTI. Onr Mothers of Fifty Tears Ago Had Better , Ideas and Customs. HONESTY NECESSARY IN BUSINESS This time they came in peaceful guise. They brought thousands ot acres. They called themselves the St Andrews Band Company, and it is a question whether they captured St. Andrews or St Andrews captured them. Of course, in such a town, there are divers objects of interest. Every stranger is expected to visit the Indian camp and the blockhouse, 3?t Tipp'erary and the Scotch kirk. The kirk is a white building with a bell tower and the picture of a green, green oak displayed on the fac ade. Here, the Scutch Presbyterians, of whom there is a goodly number in St. An drews, worship and receive the word from an unconscionably high old pulpit Tra dition has a pretty story about the church. It was built, early in the century, by a gen erous but opinionated Scotchman. He wanted a church that suited him, within and without, and as the shortest, peaceable route to his own will and way, he built and furnished and kept the church giving the use of it to the parish on condition that they paid the taxes. Howgrateful the con- was, one cannot decide; perhaps "WHY suffer with Corns when rnn ran T.r. Drummond-Tirvi Sfrnlcy.wlfricanos that iaxmancntly core them. with Daisy-Corn Cure The streets are very wide tmd nature has made a rough natural boulevard. There is a legend 1 do not know how trustworthy that convicts macadamized the streets. They did their work well; but they had great advantages in the soil, which has a large mixture of sand. The lovely drives are an attraction oi at Andrews. Every where the roads are smooth, and even the mountain roadways are smooth and good. A dozen picturesque drives come to my. memory. There is Lake Chamcook and Ml. Chamcook, and for shorter drives, Joe's Point, where you can see the St. Croix river, the Bay and the distant shores of Xova Scotia. At low tide there is a unique drive across the bottom of the sea to Minis ter's Island, a large, island to the northeast, named after the famous old Parson Andrew s. When the tide is out there is a fine, dry roadbed, but with such rapidity do the tides rise here and in the Bay ot Fundy, that at high tide '20 feet of water cot er the road. St. Andrews is an old town, that is, there were settlers on the peninsula as early as the seventeenth century; and one of "the forays ot Massachusetts' reprisal was against the Frenchmen and their Indian allies on Passamaquoddy Bay. Do you recall Church's narrative? He commanded the Massachusetts troops. A very successful foray it was. The First Massachusetts Invasion. Church landed on either Moose Island (now Eastnort) or Indian Island; it makes it more thrilling for one'when atSt An drews to suppose that it was Indian Island, therefore we take the latter version. Thence he sailed across to St Andrews, completely surprised the Indians, and be sides taking many prisoners, captured all their store of fish, carrying off what they could and destrovimr the rest "Whereon.'' says Church, grimly, "the enemy seeing what our forcee were about, that their stock they grumbled and criticised John Scott'i taste, and wondered why, when he was about it, "a man of his means," he couldn't pay the taxes; it is certain, anyhow, that they did not pay the taxes themselves. Then the giver rose up in his wrath and the following Sunday, when they assembled they found the doors locked and John Scott readywith a fiery discourse on their sins of omission. Somehow, peace must have been patched up, tor the church was left to them at his death, with this queer proviso as if John Scott will push his finger into their affairs, even from the grave every year the picture of an oak tree was to have a fresh coat of paint Punctu ally, every year it has had the legal coat, until it is as glossy as basrelief. The Governor and Bis Family. There are dozens of interesting traditions afloat in St Andrews, and more than dozens of interesting characters. A placid old gentleman, whose pretty cottage on the hill we noticed the first day, is the father of Canadian journalism, and a perfect mine of information. Generally, some time in the day, one will, see, either in the hotel or on the streets, a handsome, elderly man, to whom every one bows. Sometimes he is in avPony, carriage driven by a dark-eyed young man, or by a sweet-faced and Titian haired lady. This is Sir Leonard Tilley, the. Governor; the young man is his son, and the charming woman his wife. They are all greatly loved in St Andrews; and any old inhabitant will like nothing better than to tell stories of Sir Leonard's elo quence when he was the member from St. John's. Lady Tilley entertains delightfully, and many a wanderer from the States car ries back grateful memories of her home and her cook and J wishes me to add her Jersey cows. In this respect, the hospitality of St. Andrews, there is so much to say. Canon Ketchem, Mrs. Ketchem and Miss Ketchem, Sir Charles Tupper and a score of other kind hosts and hostesses have captured more American hearts than Church men took captives. Canon Ketchem has some rare old books in his library that are worth a long journey to see. Personally, i confess that I would take a longer journey than to at Anarews to nave an evening With So Famous a TVhist Player as he. Why, I often wonder to myself, do the American clergy, so neglect one great means of happiness; why do they not play whist more? A clergyman in the States as learned, polished and devoted to his work as Canon Ketchem, if he plays' whist at all, will play a mongrel game beneath contempt "to oblige." Yet, actually whist, apart from all its intellectual claims, is a lively means of grace. There is no manner of doubt in my mind that a large share of Canon Ketchem's general courtesy and wide charity is due to his spiritual con flicts and victories"prer the green baize W,ith his partners from the States who ask at intervals "What is trump?" or trium phantly spend the last trump on his safe small suit card, "because they have lost the run of clubs, "or reproach the most brilliant unblocking tactics with "Couldn't we have made another trick if you'd saved your queen?" St Andrews air is a specific for hay fever. Possibly, one reason is the extraor dinary dryness of the atmosphere, which is moralike mountain than sea air, yet has the quality of sea air in its salt refreshment; possibly another is that the pine woods are an absorbent. Be the reason what it may, hay fever sufferers can drive, ride, walk, fish in wet clothes or keep flowers in their rooms aud never feel a twinge. The fishing privileges of St. Andrews are large, both in the bay for salt water fish and in the lakes and streams for salmon trout. The sailing is fine, andthey are to have a kind of pond for bathers in Kitty's Cove this year. The water, it se'ems to us, however, is too cold for real pleasure. Octave Thajjet. WHITTEX FOB THE DISPATCH. Fifty y ears ago the American woman who had in the morning set her house in order with her own hands, on Saturday afternoon sat down to her modicum of intellectual culture. In many cases this took the form of a Sunday school lesson or religious read ing. If her mind was 'quick enough to. crave expression it found vent in long let ters on huge folio paper closely written as lines could go, full of gossip and observa tion well worth the 25 cent postage of those days; or the lady kept a journal, which had the advantage over the forms of literary ex ercise to-day that it was not meant for pub lic perusal, at least until the writer's death. Therein it was unlike a club ess.iy or the newspaper efforts of our own, whose writers determine that the public shall be their schoolmasters, if not the nursemaids of their literary ambitions. During the week probably two-thirds of the woman of this country had done their own washing in an extremely neat manner, ironed the snowy fresh bundles of clothes and polished their houses with their own hands, giving themselves an amount of ex ercise which called every muscle into play more vigorously than any modern gymna sium. Their social aspirations were satisfied with keeping their families neatly clad, well turned ont in public and their homes in the' nicest condition. The Women Wero Good Cooks. Good cookery was common, as French visitors of note remarked, and conversation was pleasant and pointed. The two things are apt to flourish together. Ladies of old times were good gardeners, the old white climbing rose; the sweetbriar, the English violets growing wild in many a Hew Eng land neighborhood proving their taste. They hod games of battledore and skipping rope, the last, in spite of the censure it finds, giv ing the most elastic figures. I remember well when sylphlike girls of 18 and 20, with school teachers yet older, amused themselves regularly with the game, a dozen running around in a circle and jump ing the rope as they came to it without stopping, one alter the other. It was a pretty game and left pretty cdor on soft laues, niiu jiiav suppic .ugures jutu sireiiKtu. The girls whose mothers were alraid to have them jump the rope always were deli cate and suffered from the very weaknesses jumping was supposed to entail. These women of whom I write were not rustic and uneducated by any means. They read Latin and French, if not Italian, and drew and painted with more correctness than the "artistic" girls of to-day. They were women of taste, who delighted in Longfellow and Frances Sargent's poetry, and read Byron, or theirlovers read "Childe Harold" to them. For lighter reading they had Qraham't Magazine, Sartain's and Put nam's, which nourished a very fair critical quality, and were quite as healthy as Ibsen or the English circulating novels. What Sunday School Work Excuse. It is Saturday in thlast half of the cen tury, and how do the daughters of these women spend it? The Sunday school is not obsolete by any means, and its prepara tion entails an amount of effort which in many cases is the outcome of the whole week. The Teachers' Club, the class meet ing at the teacher's house weekly, the visit ing of scholars, writing letters to each week by week, the trip in town to the mammoth Bible class with its lecturers and pano ramas, the summer week given up to Sun day school convention at the seaside or the month at Chautauaua. include the vigorous absorbing amount, of devotion expected by this agency. indeed, devotion to ounaay scnooi worJc often absolves one from any other social duty, especially of a distasteful nature. Old people are left lonely, snubbed and neg lected, because the ladies of their house holds are taken up with the works of pious credit, and a hundred chances to do good are trodden underfoot because the eyes are so fixed on the routine of self-imposed duty. There are essays to be written for and by classes and amusements devised to secure their interest. The women of CO years ago would find some of the methods of securing interest more than questionable. Contrivances of Modern Piety. A mission Sunday school in Chicago an nounced for its Sunday afternoon pro gramme such entertainments as a temale SEW ADVEBTISEMKXTP. . ENDORSEMENTS: " I have examined Dr. Price's Delicious Flavoring Extracts, and find them to be of rare excellence." PETER COLLIER, Chief Chemisr, Washington, D.C. . Department of Agriculture. "We have much' pleasure in bearing our testimony to the flavor, aroma, and fine quality of Dr. Price's Delicious -Flavoring Extracts. We find them to be of exceptional purity, and free from any deleterious substances." THOMAS HEYS, Professor of Chemistry, Toronto School of Medicine. PETER J. RICE, Analytical and Consulting Chemist, Toronto, Canada. Ontario School of Pharmacy. "I find by analysis, Dr. Price's Delicious Flavoring Ex tracts, Vanilla, Lemon, Orange, Almond, Rose, etc., to be madeTrom true fruits, of perfect purity, and excellence of flavor." J. M. LONG, Professor of Chemistry, Chicago Medical College and College of Pharmacy. guise. One wants to be a newspaper woman to know what it is to be asked to harness to everybody's lawn roller. Don't ever ask me any questions on that subject If you would know why American women grow haggard at 35 and haggish at 40, von will find it in this fanatic ambition. Kot content with proving "her capability of do ing everything as well as a man, and some things a great deal better," as runs the modest creed, she can't be satisfied till she proves herself first among women, at least of her own set. Undying rivalries, politi-. rai urues uu uoi cumvuie lines oi Deauiy. study tne laces at women s conventions, re ligious, suffragist or club congresses. The sharp, shrewd gaze of the calculating man aging woman contracts the corners of the eyes into crows' feet, and rules lines deep and close across the forehead, anxiety and tension bring the bilious tincture into the skin, and dark shadings, Care's leaden fingers, are put in below the eyes. Women With Dish Months. I have seen beautiful women drawn into the excitements and rivalries of club life in a few years show as hard and sinister faces as you find in a gambling halL Between the stout women with hard, bland face3 and set lips, and the slim, sinuous women with dish mouths and the lack of all principle and feeling indicated by that feature, one searches in vain for a face to love, a face to trust. There may be fresh, college girl faces, dogmatic, untried, and women of a and Houston streets. These were on the first floor and held his large and valuable library. He was an unbeliever in regard to the "rappings," not only so far as spiritual influence prevailed, but with respect to the production of the sounds themselves, which he pronounced "all trick." It was pro posed to invite these "girls" to meet a num ber of gentlemen at Dr. Griswold's room', where it was expected the "spirits" would be present, when we felt confident of exposing the "humbug." "Witnesses of the Performance. calm, regular, religious looking type, who commonly turn out thrice divorced or em bezzlers of funds. If a man is curious to know how much experience of the nether world he can gain in this, let him marry one of these Madonna women with smooth complexions. It isn't safe to make friends of any of these convention .going women. They will turn on a friend at an instant's call of self interest, or work their way into one's secrets to betray them when the first difference comes. It is the rule of the game. Self love and ambition in their concentrated, unvarnished form do not teach good faith or consideration. Politics is a mistake for women. As soon as they have learned the game, men will not tamely see their places taken from them, but will off with the f loves and turn women out by superior rate strength. Whit Women In Business Slust 'Learn. As money makers women are apt to make successes ir they can only learn the policy of being honest Their inventive brains, their patience, their freedom from drinking and faro playing habits which upset head clerks are all in their favor. Let a woman once get into her'head that business and so ciety can't be run together, that she must be ready to work 18 hours out of 24 in emergencies and be the cornerstone of her own fortunes, and she is pretty sure to moke a success if she can be honest enough to forbear taking advantage. When the door is open and the dog away she must not consider tnese providental indications that she is to steal the doormat Women will know what I mean. If the sex would know the good of life let them throw away ambitions, which corrode, and political strife, which nets their faces with cordage of wrinkles and dries up skin and souL Let them take for their share three things they commonly have not in dependence, sufficient money and cultiva tion. There is nothing sweeter in this world than earning money honestly by con genial work for comfortable uses. Fretted nerves, tree to select their own quiet, crav ing tastes, allayed by some share of natural Tipnntr lipln for nefp riliiFnr diflpngp flr cornet player and a husband and wife who I all included in the modest income, which nrtiiclAfl rll, afa PVl. famala 4 amrarar na I -nn.-l.n .in vrnmnnia nrli .trill nrn-l" vntl. --Uf .V.UU..K .,U4l,lUlG I U1UV UC UU( I, UU1UU 0 1 .. V If.. TW.. ,,..U f Nervous Debility. E cry one who are in the least degree sub ject to nervousness, sleeplessness, prostra tion, mental fatigue, or nervous debility in any form, find the hot weather of June, July anil August very hard to bear, if not dan gerous. Kervous prostration is becoming more and more common every year, the symptoms of which are: Brown specks be fore the eyes, slight dizziness, roaring in the ears, attacks of nervous headache, pal pitation of the heart, flashes of heat, fol lowed by slight chilly sensations, faintness, depression, despondency, forebodings, fool ish fears, and many other similar ones. Any one subject to any or all of these symptoms should take warning at once, as they indicate the approach of a disease very deranging to the system and hard to cure. Pe-ru-na quickly cures nervous prostra tion in all forms. The first dose gives prompt relief to the most distressing symp toms, and a persistent use of it for a reason able length of time will permanently cure cases of long standing. A dose of Pe-ru-na befdre each meal during the hot season is a safeguard of priceless value, especially to those who are in the least subject to nervous prostration. Complete directions for use on each bottle. Eor treatise on nervous prostration and diseases of the nervous system send for copy of The Family Phvsician Ho. 1. Sent whistled duets. lecturer is the card that usually draws, the curiosity Deing not tnat sne sneacs so well. but that she speaks at all, like tha monkey's waltzing. The piety of to-day loads itself with manifold contrivances, burdensome as the responsibilites of business houses, but where religion is out of the question. Saturday is the day for outdoor games. A dozen girls could not find themselves in a game of skipping rope by accident to day. All is premeditated, cut and dried. There must he a tennis club, or an archery club, to play for prizes, like that which is driving its stakes under my own window to day, to the demolition of all privacy and quiet. Why, with acres of shaded, unoccu pied ground about, it was necessary to plant the tennis club within 25 feet of a citizen I understandmcr. jjuc wnere is tne place oi unaerstanamgr The deep saith it is not in me. Shikiex Dark. of fish was destroyed, and that the season I free by the Pe-ru-na Medicine Company,, .was -over-for -catching anymore,.set up aJColumbast Ohio. who values peace and stillness more than any one in the place, can't be de termined, but it illustrates the considera tion for neighbors which prevails among young people. The Public Must Hear About It A hearty game under the shade of one's own home grounds does not satisfy the girl .of to-day. She wants the club and a re porter to put "the names in the paper," and match games played against the club in the next town, all of which tends to good feeling and the repose so much lauded in modern ethics. The papers let us once in a while into the politics oi a ladies' club elections, with their months of pipelaying and wirepulling, their tricks at the polls and the general sweetness and unselfishness cultivated. There is little pride or satisfaction left in simply doing one s best, whether in a uni versity course, an athletic contest or a liter ary club. Kothing satisfies without the public audience, the newspaper mention, with the doings of rowdies in the next column. To the modern woman who is the true product of her time her days are all Saturdays. 2f ot content with.duties to fam ily and friends and self-culture, she takes to' dragging a path roller for the promotion of some public enterprise. It may be a 52,000,000 building for women, or a statne daughters of their grandmothers, or a fund for teaching the Upper Burmese dialects, she harnesses herself to her iron roller and drags it with her in street and drawing room wherever she goe. The worst is she calls her friends' attention to it, and if pos sible gets them to take a turn pushing it Schemes the Modern Women Have. A friend, who is much of a country mouse, left her home for a few weeks in the city last spring- Her report on her return, was that she had not met a single woman' who had not a scheme to push, and who did. not ask her assistance and "influence." One had a college for girls, one a hotel for women, one a university, another a band of Pilgrim descendants, a fifth wanted a statue for the dead and gone queen who had as much of a tombstone as she called oranv- how, a sixth wanted a great hygienic reno vating establishment, a seventh proposed the collection of genealogical data. No wonder the country mouse came home in a state of nervous nrostration and vowed she would never enter town again except in dis THEY CONVERTED COOPER. How the Fox Girls Convinced the Great Novelist There Was Something in Spirit ualism A Famous Test The Toe Joint Story Exploded. The recent statement by one of the "Fox girls," of Bochester rappings fame, declar ing that all the spirit sounds and noises were caused by the cracking of her toe joints, leads me to give an account of a remarkable seance with these three girls at the time they paid their first visit to.New York, says Richard B. Kimball in the New York Timet. After perusing; it I think the reason will he satisfied, whatever of deception may. have been practiced, that the toe joint story is an ineffable humbug. It was in 1850 that the Fox girls came to New York, astounding reports having pre ceded them of the noisy visitation of the spirits which had literally compelled them to leave their home. Dr. Bufus W. Gris wold, the author and critic, occupied rooms at that time on Broadway between Bleecker The invitation was accepted. At the ap pointed hour the Allowing gentlemen met in Dr. Griswold's appartments: J. Feni more Cooper, George Bancroft, W. C. Bry ant, the Kev. Dr. Hawkes, Dr. John W. Francis, Dr. E. E. ilarcy, John Bigelow, and myself. The three Fox girls came promptly. They were seated by a table, but not near enough to touch it The com pany made a large circle around it. and we l all impatiently waited for the "perform- vaded our little assembly. Half an hour passed and the spirits made no sign. The girls were repeatedly asked how Boon they would begin to demonstrate. They replied gravely that the spirits were not under their control, that they had inti mated that they would be present that was all they could say. At length raps began to be heard, sound ing like slight shocks from an electric bat tery. Questions were at once in order, and Dr. Francis toolcthe floor. His interroga tories were leading ones, and at the end of a few minutes he resigned in favor of Dr. Hawkes, the Fox girls getting the best of it With Dr. Hawkes, who had been bred a lawyer, things did not flow so smoothly with them, but there were several answers which excited surprise. Cooper "Was a Skeptic I was seated next to Mr. Cooper, and I perceived he exhibited much impatience while the questioning was going on. When Dr. Hawkes finished. Cooper exclaimed, "Let me have hold of them." He beirau 'accordingly. Here 'are the qnestions and answers: "Some years ago I lost a near relative. Was it a male or a female?" "A female." "Bv a natural death, or otherwise?" "Otherwise." "Please rap the number of years since the person died." The rappings began. We all listened at tentively, counting the number. As it ran from 20 to 30, from 30 to 40, from 40 to 50, webeganJo hold our'breath. The rappings stopped at 58. There was some discussion whether it was 57 or 58, and it was rapped over again at 58. I had watched Cooper narrowly. As the raps proceeded he became deadly pale. At the conclusion all eyes were turned on him. "Gentlemen," said he, "when I was about 2 years old, my sister was killed by being thrown from her horse. The years since then have been correctly rapped." Satisfied Every Test I saw that Cooper was profoundly affect ed. This did not, however, stop the pro ceedings. Sir. Bancroft suggested that the rappings should be transferred to the door, he being on one side and Bryant on the other. No questions were asked, but the raps came out strong. After some further experiments we adjourned with the feeling that we had not succeeded in "confounding the Fox girls," and we agreed that the least said about it the better. Fenimore Cooper died about IS months after this occurrence. Two or three vears later I was dining with Mr. Phinney, of the book firm of Ivison &Phinney, and a near connection of Air. Cooper's. In the course of conversation he asked me if I knew Cooper had become a confirmed Spiritualist before his death. I said I did not He as sured me of the fact, but could not account for it. I told him I believed I could ac count for it, and I repeated to him what I have now recorded here. THE LADY BB00KE GOWK. Mrs. Harrison and Mrs. McKee Made a Hit in XondonXresed in It. The two most admired American women fust now are Jfrs. Bussell Harrison and Mrs. McKeej-says a London correspondent All London is going a little mad over them, and the Lin coins share in the reflected glory as their sponsors and introducers. At the State concert the two handsome sisters-in-law made a decided sensation by appear- ing in what is now known as the "famous Lady Brooke gown" L e., a soft, heavy white silk, made with wide satin "braces," thick-sewn with diamonds, worn over full bodices of niousseline de soie, sprinkled with tiny brilliants. Mrs. Harrison, who is fair and. pretty, wore the "diamond" gown, further enhanced by a deep pattern embroidered in brilliants just above the hem of the skirt, and ' Jlrs. McKee ap peared in a twin costume, wherein pearls did duty for diamonds. Test it Yourself. Cleveland's Baking Powder is perfectly $ure. The same cidiiu 13 luduc iui puwuua auuiictaicu win am monia and alum, but you can settle the question yourself. " Boil a teaspoonful of the baking powder ip a teaspoonful of water ; if adulterated the smell of. ammonia can be detected in the steam." Cleveland 's Baking Powder is the strongest. It is' the most effective and economical. Try it, A tea cnnnnful of Cleveland's will do more and better strength. wori-. than a heaping teaspoonful of other powders. Food made -with Cleveland 's keeps moist and -fresh for Test it for Purity. Test it for Test it by Results. days, but if made with others soon dries out and becomes "husky." Cleveland's leavens evenly making fine grained, delicately fibred breads and cakes, results produced by no other leavening agent. Cleveland's Baking Powder Stands all Tests 1 i - I
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers