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THE PITTSBURG DISPATCH,- " SUNDAY, JULY
7.,-J- .
r 1891.
13
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FANCIES FOR THE FAIR.
"What I nelnff AVorn by the Devotee of
J-anliion Beauty's ITavorite Draperies
Costumes for the Summer New Notions
in Dress anl Millinery.
Did you e er think of the enterprise ex
pended in the production of new things in
drew and millinery? The work is. endless,
for a new thing soon grows old. An ideal
may he reached, hnt
uo sooner is it
reached than
it ceases to be
an ideal and the
tired brain that
conceived it must
set up another ideal
to be attained only
by the exercise of a
cultivated taste and
wonderful ingenu
ity, seasons come
and seaon go, eai.li with its new necessities
for beaut' draperj, aud even now when
the roit of humauitj is seeking recreation
in nature's soothing retreats the fashion
artists are delxing the heat and working
hard as eer.
A white chip hat for beach or country is
shown in the first illustration. It has a
crown eucirckd with a very full ruche of
white chiffon muslin, made of doubled
strips fi e inches wide. The brim is caught
tip w ith a chiflon rosette. A spray of corn
flower dronps toward the front. The
drawing is from Harper's JSazar.
Nothing in the feminine wardrobe is just
io more perplexing or interesting than
the (lirt, sa a the New York Frets. For a
long time the bodice has been the central
figure around which the most novel and
seductive ideas have clustered. Now it is
the skirt and its limitless innovations in
the way of flouncings, fan insertions,
festoons, frills and paniers. To give the
modern affair, with its sheath-like gores and
deim-train, an artistic effect is to proclaim
j ourselt an expert. It is one of the most
difncult pieces of work in dressmaking.
Tins all the best modistes declare with
emphasis to be a fact. Just let the scissors
take a wrong turn and your skirt is ruined.
Even the slightest mistake is disastrous to
the correct hang. There is an art, a knack,
which only comes from long practice in
cutting. For this reason we meet with
gowns every day that are totally devoid of
that mjstenous'something we call "style."
The skirt is at fault. It shows at a single
glance amateur dressmaking.
A Frettx Summer Toilet.
The skirt is an important feature of the
crepe and surah gown here shown. It is a
beautiful summer
Iff
toilet of gray crepe
embroidered with
pink rosebuds; it
is mounted over
pink taffeta and
trimmed with pink
surah. The skirt
is bell-shaped, bias
at the back, and is
hlashed at the bot
t o m, displaying
pink surah betw een
the edges. The full
crepe bodice has a
corselet of surah,
with jeweled em
broidery at the
edgesand a pointed
collar and deep
cuffs to match. A
Cleopatra girdle
with fringed ends
bancs at the right
of the front It is
a design from Harper's Bazar.
Apropos of the skirt the New York ITerald
Mvs the beauti-'s of Gotham have adopted.!
substitute forthe hustle. It is the same old
bustle cut in two, and the two halves moved
around one on each side. A lady who
knows all about such things said she had
one on herself, and whec the reporter com
mented on her increased robustness she
laughed, blushed, and said:
"It's not me, it's rubber. Inflated pads
are the lates craze, and one that is becoming
popular with remarkable rapidity. The
pads are made of inflated rubber bags. They
nrenotsoinconvenientas theold time bustle
:md not much more of a n isanee to wear.
Go down Fifth avenue anyday and you will
be surprised at the number of remarkably
broad women you will meet Thcyhae
grown wonderfully stout in the past
month."
'Why do they do it?"
"Oh, "the great advantage to be gained in
appearance is the smaller look it gives to
the waist. I don't think there is any other
reason. That's quite enough for any woman.
The fashion has its serious drawbacks, too.
Sometimes the pads slips around, and the
effect is unpleasant. Again, too, I am al
ways in fear that a pin will puncture one. of
the" things, and that one side of me will go
off with a loud report. You can imagine
how lop-sided one would look after such an
accident. It's horrible to think of."
Beautiful tare Fichu.
The summer wrap illustrated next is
made of white lace 11 inches deep and yel
low ribbons The lace is in three pieces
one a yard and
seven-eighths long,
and the other two
a yard and five
eighths. The longer
forms the upper
Tart of the fichu,
lor which the lace
is taken lengthwise.
This niece is nleat-
tf a ed into a space of
I tf& an lnca 'm a half
Cftflfe- jit the waist in the
back, and at the
ends at the waist in
tront, and on the
shoulders the width
is shirred together
to within four
inches of the scal
loped edge. The
home dressmaker
will readily catch the other points of the
design from the illustration.
Speaking of lace recalls a recent inter
view witn a lace importer, published in the
St Louis Globe-Democrat. The impression,
he says, that the most valuable collection of
laces'ou this continent is held by the Van
derbilts is erroneous. There is a ladv living
in Jlexico City who can justlv cfaim to
have the moat aluable, as well as interest
ing, collection of any other person in the
Americas. She prizes it at $S00,000, and I
guess it would bring nearly that much in
the open market. The ladies of the Van
.lerbilt family hold goOO.000 w orth of real
laces, most of which came from Belgium.
Germany and Austria. The collection of
the Mexican lady includes rare bits from
every celebrated maker, and fragments once
owned bv the rov3l families of every coun
try in Uurope. The collection- contains ihej
most complete assortment of Spanish; Old
Moorish, Egyptian, Persian and Chinese
w ork there is in existence. The Yanderbilt
collection comes next. The ladies of the
Astor families hold $300,000 worth of fine
laces. Mrs. A. T. Stewart owned ?200,000
worth. Mrs. August Belmont treasures a
collection equally as valuable. Vice Presi
dent Morton's wife has ?100,000 in delicate
bits, and Mrs. Marshall O. Roberts and ex
Secretary "Whitney's wife nave notable col
lections.
Something Neat in Capes.
A light cape, much in favor, is made
without lining and with the edge smoothly
cut, so that the bulk of a hem is avoided.
These capes usually
have decorated
yokes and are often
est noted in silver,
dove, blue gray,
wood, olie, old
rose, steel blue,
sapphire blue, and
very light golden
brown cloths. Of
course, theyoke and
collar require a
lining, and that is
usually of soft silk
matching the cloth
in the cape. The
ease with which a
cape may be as
sumed and the
amount of protec
tion it will give,
make it take the place of the various fancy
shawls that for many years have been in
vogue at the seaside aud mountain resorts
when it grew cool in the evening. A Span
ish woman may know how to arrange her
mantilla gracefully, but the American girl
generally looks bundled up in her white
shawl, so that in a picturesque cape there is
a decided change for the better.
Then a cape that is at once comfortable
and pretty is of much use. It needs to be
full, it wants to be simple, and yet this Is
always required it must be becoming.
Dark blue, brown, olive, black, lincoln
green and a very deep red are fancied for
cloaks that are to be worn on journeys by
land or sea. The long ulster for traveling
by land w as rather warm, and yet something
is required to put on at the end of one's
journey so that one may not look, as a little
woman once expressed it,, "altogether
smudgy."
The "picturesque cape illustrated just
above, is the ideal traveling one, says the
T surllttr ZTXkviit Tsvttvrtrrt Tf id mnila rt nort"
Wv
MUWf
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Ladies' Home Journal. It is made ot dark
blue cloth; lined throughout with a light
quality of very dark red silk. It is full,
raised and plaited on the shoulders and has
a monk's nood lined with the red, which
may or may not be worn as is fancied.
With this is a high collar that rounds quite
low in the front, and long loops and ends
of blue ribbon are knotted just below it
and seem to fasten the cape, although in
reality a strong pair of hooks and eyes first
do tliat service. The hat is a blue straw,
with a bit of red silk drawn under the
crown, and having just in front a bunch of
blue flowers, while at the bacU are high
loops of blue ribbon from under which
come the narrow blue strings that are
knotted under the chin. A cape, made
after' this style, and intended not for travel
ing but for evening wear at the seaside, is
of scarlet cloth lined with scarlet silk, and
will make its wearer look like that most de
lightful character of fiction, Little Red
Ridinghood,
An Egyptian Tea Gown.
The tea gown shown immediately below
is made ofchaIlie,with one of the Egyptian
designs tnickly cov
ering its white
ground. It is fitted
to the figure in
princess . fashion,
and has a slight
train. Just in front
is inserted a long
gile. of white chal
lie, gathered in full
at the neck and con
fined to the waist
bv a ribbon girdle
which crosses it and
hangs in long loop
and ends on one
side. The fronts are
outlined as far as
the waist by a tiny
frill of white lace,
and a similar frill
is the finish about
the neck above the high collar. The sleeves
are very full, and high on the shoulders,
are of white challie, and drawn into deep
pointed cuffs of the figured material, that
hax e for a hand finish trills of point-d'esprit
lace.
One does not have to look twice at this
gown to be certain of its prettiness, and it
is only necessary to think once to realize
exactly how inexpensive it is. "But," says
somebody, "the white will soil so easily."
Well, not necessarily. You can wear it
through the pleasant summer time, and
when the cooler days come, you can remove
the white and insert scarlet or blue, as is
must uecoining, ana your tea gown is
ready then to do service during the
autumn and winter. In a striped
silk, in a plain material, or in a dark plaid
a good result could be obtained; but as the
Egyptian colorings and designs are so much
in vogue one might as well choose for ma
terial that which has the charm of novelty
as well as the virtue of usefulness, being in
the fashion not costing any more. The il
lustration is from the Ladies' Home Journal.
JNo matter how one is dressed, without
native grace beauty is lost But here is a
bit of encouragement from an artist He
says: "A girl who sits ungracefully is a
rarity. The sex's pose in a chair arc in
stinctively and unconsciously sightly.
Then why will not girls practice a good
carriage? They spend hours of prayer and
effort over their bangs aud their makeup,
yet everybody knows a fine figure is the
most important requisite of alL Good car
riage induces a good figure: It throws such
lines as yon have into an adjustment of
harmony. It will make your dresses fit bet
ter, last longer and look finer while they
last A head well carried comes soon to he
'well poised.' Shoulders well squared
back fill up j our bodice and impro e your
silhouette as well as vour nrotile. Hin
well balanced make your gowns drape trrace
fully In spite of your dressmaker. "Feet
that come down to the cronnd prettily
come near to being pretty feet"
the equatorial regions of the- Dark "Con
tinent whole villages are occupied with
their cultivation, and that with bananas
they are used by the natives as their com
monest food. To the Egyptian the water
melon is said to be both "meat and drink."
And so, but to a less extent, are they used
in large sections of Asia. In France their
culture, as adapted to the higher grades of
civilization and to a people of different
habit, is thoroughly understood. They are
there prepared in various ways, a melon
sauce being frequently served with boiled
meats.
The melon of any species readily parts
with its most desirable qualities; the ol'der
it is, or the longer it stands after being pre
pared for use, the more of its sweetness and
flavor is lost A real gourmet, whether he
be a Parisian or a Georgia darkie, will not
touch a melon that has stood for 24 hours.
The negro possibly exemplifying the in
stincts of his ancestors on the banks of the
Kongo, will thrust his jaws into the pulp of
the broken melon and secure its sweets with
animal-like avidity; while - the refined epi
cure wants it with his palate fresh and sen
sitive, and, for the same reason, will take it
before soup.
Ice in the Musk-Melon.
Musk-melons grown in this locality are
not ditficult to get, and these may be served
shortly after they are taken from the vine.
They should be kept on ice before they are
served, but not too long, else they lose their
flavor; and in no instance snouia tney oe
filled with ice. Nothing except age and de
cay so robs them of their perfection.
The same rules hold as to the cantaloupe, re-
Igarded by many as' the finest variety of the
tn.mil v "Tint this ifi nnlva matter of taste.
Either of them may be served as a dessert,
seasoned with sugar, ginger or salt and
pepper '
A perfectly fine melon is full without any
vacuity. This can be determined by tapping
it on the rind. In choosing a muskmelon or
cantaloupe, observe that the network of the
skin is rough. Vhen cut open the skin
should be slightly moist, not watery. The
small ones have the finest flavor. The use
of the melon as a prepared fruit is undoubt
edly becoming more common; in a preserved
state they are recognized as one or the most
agreeable sweetmeats, and some cooks have
ingeniously succeeded in making them into
stews and fritters. But without much
trouble a very palatable salad may be made
of insipid melons, unfit for dessert Cut the
edible parts into small slices and serve with
irenen dressing, xne juice ot tne water
melon, properly extracted, is frequently
prescriDea in cases oi lever, jluc juice rau
be extracted readily by puncturing the rind
not cutting the melon into slices. The
juice is likewise used as a cosmetic, and
gives a pleasant suppleness to the skin. It
also enters into the composition of some of
the finest French pomades. '
Oatmeal a s Drink.
"With the season of sunstrokes at hand
the following recipe from the pen of the
late Dr. Parkes, an eminent English physi
cian, may prove a blessing to workingmen
especially to those who must bear the
heat and burden of the day in mill or har
vest field. It is said by those who have
tried this drink that they could accomplish
more work than when using beer, and were
physically in better condition.
The proportions are a quarter pound of
oatmeal to two or three quarts of water, ac
cording to the heat of the day and the work
anu tmrst; it snouia oe weu Doiiea, ana tnen
an ounce or one and a half ounces of brown
sugar added. If you find it thicker than
you like add three quarts of water. Before
drinking it shake up the oatmeal well
through the liquid. In summer drink this
cold; in winter hot. You will find it not
only quenches thirst but will give you more
strength and endurance than any other
drink. If you cannot boil it you can take a
little oatmeal mixed with cold water and
sugar, but this is not so good; always boil it
if you can. If at any time you have to make
a very long nay, as in harvest, and cannot
stop for meals, increase the oatmeal to half
pound or even three-quarters pound, and
the water to three quarts if you are likely
to be very thirsty.
Blackberry Cordial.
THE AIR' IS RESTFUL
Octave Thanet Has Found a Summer
Resort That Meets Her Ideal.
IT IS UP IN NEW BRUNSWICK.
!A"Series-of Yankee Invasions and the Im
portance of the last One.
HISTORY OP ST. ANDBEWS-BY-THE-SEA
rcORBESrONDENCE OT THE DISrATCB.
St. Andbews-by-the-Sea, July 2. It
is not such a simple thing as it seems to
decide where one shall "Spend the summer.
"We decided on the strength of a friend's
letter to come to St Andrews, 2T. B. To
reach this place you can take the railway or
aline of "palatial Bteamers." They may
be palatial for anything we know; my sea
manship is so low and degraded that I never
try to make it keep company with anything
palatial on the water; therefore, we choBe
the cars.
Palatial is not the appropriate adjective
for them. Tt is interesting to a traveler to
watch the career of cars; to meet with the
old friends of his youth, long since departed
out of his accustomed ways of travel, in the
byways of the North and South. Myself,
I almost shed tears of recognition when,
after so many years, my eyes again fell on
the once admired dark red plush cushions
and gilded black walnut and narrow berths.
like a Long lost Friend.
"It is," I exclaimed to my friend; who
was gazing about her with emotion, visibly
indicated by a frowning brow and curling
lip, "it is the long lost sleeping car of my
childhood! I know in the toilet room are
the towels about the size of one's hand and
the lock that will not turn to lock the door
in the first place and will not unlock it in
the second, so you feel like the Prisoner of
ChiUonfora quarter of an hour at a time I
"We do wrong, "West," I mnsed in a senti
mental Sterne's Yorick's vein, "we do
wrong to abandon the old friends that have
worked so hard for us, as soon as more com
fortable cars are invented. You see. J .
they cling to the old fashions, indeed, from
the appearance of those seats, I should
judge that whole families with liberal lunch
baskets had clung to them; they are con-
The following makes an excellent cordial
and will be found invaluable for summer
complaint: Take two quarts of Juice of fresh
blackberries, add one pound of loaf sugar
and one ounce each of the following spices:
Pulverized nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves and
allspice. Boil together a short time, and
when cold add a pint of best brandy. Uottlo
and administer several times a day in tea
spoonful doses.
Gelatine Padding.
Hake a costard with the yolks of four eggs,
a nint of milk and sugar to taste.
Soak one-third of a box of gelatine in a
little cold water.
Dissolve it by adding three-fourths of a cup
of hot water.
Add the gelatine and the whites of thn
cges well beaten to the cold custard.
Hold and set in a cool place to stiffen.
"Whipped Cream.
Put a pint of rich cream in a vessel, and if
the weather Is warm place on ice for half an
hour.
Then beat until stiff and thick. Good
cream may rise and become stiff in five
minutes.
Ci earn that does not become stiff after 15
or 20 minutes is not good or not cold enough.
After it is beaten add four ounces of
powejored sugar, mixing it gently, and flavor
to taste. If wanted i ery stiff add half ounce
of gelatine. Keep cold until ready to serve.
Blackberry Jam.
To each pound of berries take a pound of
sugar. Stir well together and let stand for
half an hour; then boil them slowly, mash
inir them and stirrinsr freauentlv. Boll for
30 minutes or until it shows the consistency
of stiff jelly.
Carrot Preserve.
Cut and prepare carrots in long, thick
pieces. Simmer them slowly in sweet cider,
reduced two-thirds, for seven or. eight
hours.
Excellent Tomato Soup.
One auart of tomatoes, one carrot, two
smau onions, Dutter size oi an egg.
CHOOSING A MELON.
It Should Sonnd Solid, and ir Muskmelon
Have a Bough Skin The Gourmet Must
Have It Fresh Oatmeal as a Refreshing
Summer Drink.
CWniTTES FOB TOE BlSrATCH.
Helons of the more common kind, known
as watermelons, are, among the people of
our latitude, classed as luxuries. Cool,
succulent, high-flavored and delicious to
the taste, they are not, if used to excess", a
wholesome frnit In the hot regions of the
world usage and adaptability with other
circumstances have made them necessaries,
and we learn from Dr. Livincstone. I?rof.
0. UUblCL D,4t3 Ul Ull C1K. OICW
together until tender and pass through a
sieve, season to tasi witn salt ana pepper,
add a teaspoonful of brown sugar, and
thicken with a little flour dissolved in
water. Serve with bread sippets.
Cucumber Catiup.
Grate 12 good sized cucumbers (pared) and
four onions. Mix well, drain off the liquor,
add four tablespoonfuls salt, three of ground
pepper. Pour in three pints of good cider
vinegar. Cork tight and seal atter bottling.
String Beans.
Preparatory to cooking string beans break
off both ends of the pod, and after stringing
pare both edges lightly with a sharp knife. It
shows a slovenly and careless habit if the
stringy fibres are left, and to fastidious eaters
nothing can be more disagreeable. The en
tire dish is often rejected when the un
pleasant and thankless labor of separating
the strings is thus contemplated. In Europe,
especially in Germany, France and Holland,
wfiero by far the greator portion of those
lezumes is consumed, thev are used in the
green state; if not for present use, they are
prepared in the same state for use in the
seasons when they are not growing. Conse
quently moro care is there taken in their
preparation. The French cooks have a
method of cooking them which is regarded
very ilno and even dainty. What is most de
sired Is the green, juicy pod rather than the,
more mature fruit or, as we commonly say,
the bean for the pod and the seed together
arc strictly in this sense the bean. Tho
beans ale thus taken from the vines before
tho grains within are scarcely formed. When
cooked in this state they nre seasoned simply
with pnmo butter, salt and pepper.
Baked Eggs, Southern Style.
Hub a pan with cold butter. Take three or
four eggs, break into cups, cover with the
creased pan, and turn over quickly so as to
bring the cups inverted in the pan. When
the butter melts add a little water, lift each
cup a little without allowing tho egg to es
cape. Cook four minutes and remove the
cups. Serve hot.
I append some recipes for frugal dishes:
Tomatoes and Ham.
Fry slices of cold boiled ham. Then fry
some tomatoes, allowing one tomato to each
slice of ham and season with pepper.
Kice Muffins.
One cupfnl cold rice, one pint flour, two
eggs, one tablespoonful salt, one quart milk,
or enough to make a thin batter. Beat
hard and bake quickly.
Breakfast Cake.
Take two cupfuls of sifted flour, add a
cupful of milk, two beaten eggs and a pinch
of salt Bake in genl pans. l
Potato Carry.
' Hash cold potatoes with minced onion,
salt, pepper and curry powder to taste.
1'onn into small balls with egg and bread
crumbs, fry crisp and serve with rich gravy,
flavored with curry powder
Kllicx Serena.
tented with modest accommodations. I feel
myself back in a primitive, frugal, Spartan
time when we saved our money and four
Eeople occupied a section. I almost am em
oldened to oner the porter the unostenta
tious ante bellum quarter instead of the
usual dollar."
J merely remarked that she wouldn't;
and on reflection, I didn't. Too much de
pends on the porter's opinion to experi
ment on it Of course, on these cars, they
burn lamps of extraordinary heat-giving
power; and of course there are no screens
or brakes, but then, the window fastenings
have something the matter with them that
prevents raising them, so it really does not
matter. "We are so Philistine and material
in the "West, where I live, that we grumble
abont such trines ana aemana electricity
and screens and "breakers" and vestibules
and ventilation, to any extent; but, East, a
cultured, Christian population seems to ac
cept them without a murmur.
The Town of a Bead Generation,
St Andrews is not a day from Bangor.
but it is half a century from our civiliza
tion. A peaceful, decayed old town, where
the weather may paint the house walls,
where boarded windows and sagging lintels
and moss-grown roofs tell ot deserted ware
houses, where grass waves in the wide
streets, where old-fashioned flowers grow in
old-fashioned gardens and forgotten
schooners lie careened below Xh e rotting
wharves; it looks the town of a dead genera
tion cast for a busy port, but by some
impish freak of fate robbed of its destiny
and so sunk in a Rip Van "Winkle lethargy
beside its beautiful bay.
Onlv the hucre hotels loomintr on the hill
sides disturb the image. They. are all J
modern; but below, in the straggling
checker-board of sfreets that dot the penin
sula, are 100 quaint intimations of age and
different race. The shops have odd names
and signs; the verj; wares have a foreign
aspect. One shop window displays quanti
ties of Wedgewood and Beleek at astonish
ingly low prices, imported directly. Every
one carries away a souvenir of St Andrews
from here. The other souvenir that one
should bring away is an Indian basket.
Where the little park slips into the bay, in
a grove of pines, are set the Indian tents,
and there some families oi Indians weave
baskets out of the sweet grasses and stained
withes. Daintier or queerer baskets one
cannot find in Montreal or Quebec.
Shopkeepers Are Not Brigands.
It is pleasant prowling about the shops,
because the shopkeepers are so invariably
courteous and do not seem grasping, after
tne manner oi ineir kidu in pleasure resorts
generally. They actually appear to hae
only one price for their goods, whether you
are a a citizen or a stranger. Mow, in St
Augustine (to which our minds instantly
turn when the pillage of travelers is dis
cussed) one tradesman frankly told us that
they had three prices; one for the dwellers
in the town, one for the cottagers and one
for the "rank strangers," each price climb
ing a little higher on the golden stair. If
there be pillage in St Andrews it is so deli
cate, so slight that it shrinks out of obser
vation. The town as it is now was laid out by the
refugee loyalists from the States in 17b0
Straightforward old John Jones, surveyor
for the Crown, cut its avenues at right
angles and divided the town by three
streets (50 to 80 feet wide) into 60 blocks,
each 320 feet square. To every dwelling
house pertains a yard, and to every yard,
flowers. How the flowers grow in these
sandy soils! The old-fashioned darlings of
our childhood we can meet again, jostling
each other in the untrimmed gardens. Not
only in gardens; on the window sills, in the
porches, on the wee stoops, the colors
dance before our eyes. "They only have a
teaspoonful of room on their porches," says
J , "and they fill it with geraniums. "
A City of Wonderful Drives.
hideous cry and so ran away all into the
woods."
This was the first Massachusetts invasion.
At the close-of the some century came an
other company of 'JNew Englanders, loyal
ists who fled from the States after the col
onies were declared independent. They
converted the fort and trading posts into a
town. Stanch old Parson Andrews, bearing
with him the royal arms that he had taken
from his Connecticut church, affixed them
above his new pulpit, and the faithful of
his flock gathered about him tinder the
Union Jack. So many years hav passed
that even the descendant of a revolution
ary parson and the descendant of a Puritan
soldier may admire their unconquerable
fidelity to their consciences.
The Glories of tho Past.
Parson Andrews' son married the daughter
ui xousu omcer, tnus acquiring .Minister a
Island, the beautiful island that is still the
family estate. One day, J and I called at
the cottage where the present head of the
family lives. The old mansion was burned,
years ago, and the family moved to a farm
house which, enlarged and improved, ia
their dwelling now. It looks like an
Englishcottage; and, sitting in the pretty,
old-fashioned drawing room, amid the claw
footed tables, the old miniatures and the
old china, facing the rosewood spinet on
which Parson Andrews' daughter may have
played Handel's melodies to her soldier
lover; with the soft-voiced, erav-haired
gentle woman opposite, the faded glories of"
ot. juiarews seemed to ungnten into a
semblance of the past
, Short-lived glories they were. The forests
once plundered, the shipping' trade de
parted. A sanguine citizen built a railway
into the woods, But he squandered his
fortune and the iron rails never knew the
sound of wheels. There followed a period
when the town was "the sleeping beauty by
the sea." Canadians came to it, summers,
but apart from the ripple of their gaiety,
nothing stirred the monotony of life. Then
there came
Tho Last Yankee Invasion.
WOMM GOING WONG
The Wirepulling and Bickering of
the Modem Clubs Destroy
MORAL AND PHYSICAL BEAUTI.
Onr Mothers of Fifty Tears Ago Had Better
, Ideas and Customs.
HONESTY NECESSARY IN BUSINESS
This time they came in peaceful guise.
They brought thousands ot acres. They
called themselves the St Andrews Band
Company, and it is a question whether they
captured St. Andrews or St Andrews
captured them. Of course, in such a town,
there are divers objects of interest. Every
stranger is expected to visit the Indian
camp and the blockhouse, 3?t Tipp'erary
and the Scotch kirk. The kirk is a white
building with a bell tower and the picture
of a green, green oak displayed on the fac
ade. Here, the Scutch Presbyterians, of
whom there is a goodly number in St. An
drews, worship and receive the word from
an unconscionably high old pulpit Tra
dition has a pretty story about the church.
It was built, early in the century, by a gen
erous but opinionated Scotchman. He
wanted a church that suited him, within
and without, and as the shortest, peaceable
route to his own will and way, he built and
furnished and kept the church giving the
use of it to the parish on condition that
they paid the taxes. Howgrateful the con-
was, one cannot decide; perhaps
"WHY suffer with Corns when rnn ran T.r.
Drummond-Tirvi Sfrnlcy.wlfricanos that iaxmancntly core them. with Daisy-Corn Cure
The streets are very wide tmd nature has
made a rough natural boulevard. There is
a legend 1 do not know how trustworthy
that convicts macadamized the streets.
They did their work well; but they had
great advantages in the soil, which has a
large mixture of sand. The lovely drives
are an attraction oi at Andrews. Every
where the roads are smooth, and even the
mountain roadways are smooth and good. A
dozen picturesque drives come to my.
memory. There is Lake Chamcook and
Ml. Chamcook, and for shorter drives, Joe's
Point, where you can see the St. Croix
river, the Bay and the distant shores of
Xova Scotia. At low tide there is a unique
drive across the bottom of the sea to Minis
ter's Island, a large, island to the northeast,
named after the famous old Parson Andrew s.
When the tide is out there is a fine, dry
roadbed, but with such rapidity do the tides
rise here and in the Bay ot Fundy, that at
high tide '20 feet of water cot er the road.
St. Andrews is an old town, that is, there
were settlers on the peninsula as early as
the seventeenth century; and one of "the
forays ot Massachusetts' reprisal was against
the Frenchmen and their Indian allies on
Passamaquoddy Bay. Do you recall
Church's narrative? He commanded the
Massachusetts troops. A very successful
foray it was.
The First Massachusetts Invasion.
Church landed on either Moose Island
(now Eastnort) or Indian Island; it makes
it more thrilling for one'when atSt An
drews to suppose that it was Indian Island,
therefore we take the latter version.
Thence he sailed across to St Andrews,
completely surprised the Indians, and be
sides taking many prisoners, captured all
their store of fish, carrying off what they
could and destrovimr the rest "Whereon.''
says Church, grimly, "the enemy seeing
what our forcee were about, that their stock
they grumbled and criticised John Scott'i
taste, and wondered why, when he was
about it, "a man of his means," he couldn't
pay the taxes; it is certain, anyhow, that
they did not pay the taxes themselves.
Then the giver rose up in his wrath and
the following Sunday, when they assembled
they found the doors locked and John Scott
readywith a fiery discourse on their sins of
omission. Somehow, peace must have
been patched up, tor the church
was left to them at his death, with this queer
proviso as if John Scott will push his
finger into their affairs, even from the grave
every year the picture of an oak tree
was to have a fresh coat of paint Punctu
ally, every year it has had the legal coat,
until it is as glossy as basrelief.
The Governor and Bis Family.
There are dozens of interesting traditions
afloat in St Andrews, and more than dozens
of interesting characters. A placid old
gentleman, whose pretty cottage on the hill
we noticed the first day, is the father of
Canadian journalism, and a perfect mine of
information. Generally, some time in the
day, one will, see, either in the hotel or on
the streets, a handsome, elderly man, to
whom every one bows. Sometimes he is in
avPony, carriage driven by a dark-eyed
young man, or by a sweet-faced and Titian
haired lady. This is Sir Leonard Tilley,
the. Governor; the young man is his son,
and the charming woman his wife. They
are all greatly loved in St Andrews; and
any old inhabitant will like nothing better
than to tell stories of Sir Leonard's elo
quence when he was the member from St.
John's. Lady Tilley entertains delightfully,
and many a wanderer from the States car
ries back grateful memories of her home
and her cook and J wishes me to add
her Jersey cows.
In this respect, the hospitality of St.
Andrews, there is so much to say. Canon
Ketchem, Mrs. Ketchem and Miss Ketchem,
Sir Charles Tupper and a score of other
kind hosts and hostesses have captured
more American hearts than Church men
took captives. Canon Ketchem has some
rare old books in his library that are worth
a long journey to see. Personally, i confess
that I would take a longer journey than to
at Anarews to nave an evening
With So Famous a TVhist Player
as he. Why, I often wonder to myself, do
the American clergy, so neglect one great
means of happiness; why do they not play
whist more? A clergyman in the States as
learned, polished and devoted to his work
as Canon Ketchem, if he plays' whist at all,
will play a mongrel game beneath contempt
"to oblige." Yet, actually whist, apart
from all its intellectual claims, is a lively
means of grace. There is no manner of
doubt in my mind that a large share of
Canon Ketchem's general courtesy and
wide charity is due to his spiritual con
flicts and victories"prer the green baize
W,ith his partners from the States who ask
at intervals "What is trump?" or trium
phantly spend the last trump on his safe
small suit card, "because they have lost the
run of clubs, "or reproach the most brilliant
unblocking tactics with "Couldn't we have
made another trick if you'd saved your
queen?"
St Andrews air is a specific for hay
fever. Possibly, one reason is the extraor
dinary dryness of the atmosphere, which is
moralike mountain than sea air, yet has the
quality of sea air in its salt refreshment;
possibly another is that the pine woods are
an absorbent. Be the reason what it may,
hay fever sufferers can drive, ride, walk,
fish in wet clothes or keep flowers in their
rooms aud never feel a twinge. The fishing
privileges of St. Andrews are large, both in
the bay for salt water fish and in the lakes
and streams for salmon trout. The sailing is
fine, andthey are to have a kind of pond for
bathers in Kitty's Cove this year. The
water, it se'ems to us, however, is too cold
for real pleasure. Octave Thajjet.
WHITTEX FOB THE DISPATCH.
Fifty y ears ago the American woman who
had in the morning set her house in order
with her own hands, on Saturday afternoon
sat down to her modicum of intellectual
culture. In many cases this took the form
of a Sunday school lesson or religious read
ing. If her mind was 'quick enough to.
crave expression it found vent in long let
ters on huge folio paper closely written as
lines could go, full of gossip and observa
tion well worth the 25 cent postage of those
days; or the lady kept a journal, which had
the advantage over the forms of literary ex
ercise to-day that it was not meant for pub
lic perusal, at least until the writer's death.
Therein it was unlike a club ess.iy or the
newspaper efforts of our own, whose writers
determine that the public shall be their
schoolmasters, if not the nursemaids of their
literary ambitions.
During the week probably two-thirds of
the woman of this country had done their
own washing in an extremely neat manner,
ironed the snowy fresh bundles of clothes
and polished their houses with their own
hands, giving themselves an amount of ex
ercise which called every muscle into play
more vigorously than any modern gymna
sium. Their social aspirations were satisfied
with keeping their families neatly clad, well
turned ont in public and their homes in the'
nicest condition.
The Women Wero Good Cooks.
Good cookery was common, as French
visitors of note remarked, and conversation
was pleasant and pointed. The two things
are apt to flourish together. Ladies of old
times were good gardeners, the old white
climbing rose; the sweetbriar, the English
violets growing wild in many a Hew Eng
land neighborhood proving their taste. They
hod games of battledore and skipping rope,
the last, in spite of the censure it finds, giv
ing the most elastic figures. I remember
well when sylphlike girls of 18 and 20,
with school teachers yet older, amused
themselves regularly with the game, a
dozen running around in a circle and jump
ing the rope as they came to it without
stopping, one alter the other. It was a
pretty game and left pretty cdor on soft
laues, niiu jiiav suppic .ugures jutu sireiiKtu.
The girls whose mothers were alraid to
have them jump the rope always were deli
cate and suffered from the very weaknesses
jumping was supposed to entail.
These women of whom I write were not
rustic and uneducated by any means. They
read Latin and French, if not Italian, and
drew and painted with more correctness
than the "artistic" girls of to-day. They
were women of taste, who delighted in
Longfellow and Frances Sargent's poetry,
and read Byron, or theirlovers read "Childe
Harold" to them. For lighter reading they
had Qraham't Magazine, Sartain's and Put
nam's, which nourished a very fair critical
quality, and were quite as healthy as Ibsen
or the English circulating novels.
What Sunday School Work Excuse.
It is Saturday in thlast half of the cen
tury, and how do the daughters of these
women spend it? The Sunday school is
not obsolete by any means, and its prepara
tion entails an amount of effort which in
many cases is the outcome of the whole
week. The Teachers' Club, the class meet
ing at the teacher's house weekly, the visit
ing of scholars, writing letters to each week
by week, the trip in town to the mammoth
Bible class with its lecturers and pano
ramas, the summer week given up to Sun
day school convention at the seaside or the
month at Chautauaua. include the vigorous
absorbing amount, of devotion expected by
this agency.
indeed, devotion to ounaay scnooi worJc
often absolves one from any other social
duty, especially of a distasteful nature. Old
people are left lonely, snubbed and neg
lected, because the ladies of their house
holds are taken up with the works of pious
credit, and a hundred chances to do good
are trodden underfoot because the eyes are
so fixed on the routine of self-imposed duty.
There are essays to be written for and by
classes and amusements devised to secure
their interest. The women of CO years ago
would find some of the methods of securing
interest more than questionable.
Contrivances of Modern Piety.
A mission Sunday school in Chicago an
nounced for its Sunday afternoon pro
gramme such entertainments as a temale
SEW ADVEBTISEMKXTP.
. ENDORSEMENTS:
" I have examined Dr. Price's Delicious Flavoring Extracts,
and find them to be of rare excellence."
PETER COLLIER, Chief Chemisr,
Washington, D.C. . Department of Agriculture.
"We have much' pleasure in bearing our testimony to the
flavor, aroma, and fine quality of Dr. Price's Delicious -Flavoring
Extracts. We find them to be of exceptional purity,
and free from any deleterious substances."
THOMAS HEYS, Professor of Chemistry,
Toronto School of Medicine.
PETER J. RICE, Analytical and Consulting Chemist,
Toronto, Canada. Ontario School of Pharmacy.
"I find by analysis, Dr. Price's Delicious Flavoring Ex
tracts, Vanilla, Lemon, Orange, Almond, Rose, etc., to be
madeTrom true fruits, of perfect purity, and excellence of
flavor."
J. M. LONG, Professor of Chemistry,
Chicago Medical College and College of Pharmacy.
guise. One wants to be a newspaper woman
to know what it is to be asked to harness to
everybody's lawn roller. Don't ever ask me
any questions on that subject
If you would know why American women
grow haggard at 35 and haggish at 40, von
will find it in this fanatic ambition. Kot
content with proving "her capability of do
ing everything as well as a man, and some
things a great deal better," as runs the
modest creed, she can't be satisfied till she
proves herself first among women, at least
of her own set. Undying rivalries, politi-.
rai urues uu uoi cumvuie lines oi Deauiy.
study tne laces at women s conventions, re
ligious, suffragist or club congresses. The
sharp, shrewd gaze of the calculating man
aging woman contracts the corners of the
eyes into crows' feet, and rules lines deep
and close across the forehead, anxiety and
tension bring the bilious tincture into the
skin, and dark shadings, Care's leaden fingers,
are put in below the eyes.
Women With Dish Months.
I have seen beautiful women drawn into
the excitements and rivalries of club life in
a few years show as hard and sinister faces
as you find in a gambling halL Between
the stout women with hard, bland face3 and
set lips, and the slim, sinuous women with
dish mouths and the lack of all principle
and feeling indicated by that feature, one
searches in vain for a face to love, a face to
trust. There may be fresh, college girl
faces, dogmatic, untried, and women of a
and Houston streets. These were on the
first floor and held his large and valuable
library. He was an unbeliever in regard to
the "rappings," not only so far as spiritual
influence prevailed, but with respect to the
production of the sounds themselves, which
he pronounced "all trick." It was pro
posed to invite these "girls" to meet a num
ber of gentlemen at Dr. Griswold's room',
where it was expected the "spirits" would be
present, when we felt confident of exposing
the "humbug."
"Witnesses of the Performance.
calm, regular, religious looking type, who
commonly turn out thrice divorced or em
bezzlers of funds. If a man is curious to
know how much experience of the nether
world he can gain in this, let him marry
one of these Madonna women with smooth
complexions.
It isn't safe to make friends of any of
these convention .going women. They will
turn on a friend at an instant's call of self
interest, or work their way into one's secrets
to betray them when the first difference
comes. It is the rule of the game. Self
love and ambition in their concentrated,
unvarnished form do not teach good faith or
consideration. Politics is a mistake for
women. As soon as they have learned the
game, men will not tamely see their places
taken from them, but will off with the
f loves and turn women out by superior
rate strength.
Whit Women In Business Slust 'Learn.
As money makers women are apt to make
successes ir they can only learn the policy
of being honest Their inventive brains,
their patience, their freedom from drinking
and faro playing habits which upset head
clerks are all in their favor. Let a woman
once get into her'head that business and so
ciety can't be run together, that she must
be ready to work 18 hours out of 24 in
emergencies and be the cornerstone of her
own fortunes, and she is pretty sure to
moke a success if she can be honest enough
to forbear taking advantage. When the
door is open and the dog away she must not
consider tnese providental indications that
she is to steal the doormat Women will
know what I mean.
If the sex would know the good of life let
them throw away ambitions, which corrode,
and political strife, which nets their faces
with cordage of wrinkles and dries up skin
and souL Let them take for their share
three things they commonly have not in
dependence, sufficient money and cultiva
tion. There is nothing sweeter in this
world than earning money honestly by con
genial work for comfortable uses. Fretted
nerves, tree to select their own quiet, crav
ing tastes, allayed by some share of natural
Tipnntr lipln for nefp riliiFnr diflpngp flr
cornet player and a husband and wife who I all included in the modest income, which
nrtiiclAfl rll, afa PVl. famala 4 amrarar na I -nn.-l.n .in vrnmnnia nrli .trill nrn-l" vntl.
--Uf .V.UU..K .,U4l,lUlG I U1UV UC UU( I, UU1UU 0 1 .. V If.. TW.. ,,..U
f Nervous Debility.
E cry one who are in the least degree sub
ject to nervousness, sleeplessness, prostra
tion, mental fatigue, or nervous debility in
any form, find the hot weather of June, July
anil August very hard to bear, if not dan
gerous. Kervous prostration is becoming
more and more common every year, the
symptoms of which are: Brown specks be
fore the eyes, slight dizziness, roaring in
the ears, attacks of nervous headache, pal
pitation of the heart, flashes of heat, fol
lowed by slight chilly sensations, faintness,
depression, despondency, forebodings, fool
ish fears, and many other similar ones.
Any one subject to any or all of these
symptoms should take warning at once, as
they indicate the approach of a disease
very deranging to the system and hard to
cure.
Pe-ru-na quickly cures nervous prostra
tion in all forms. The first dose gives
prompt relief to the most distressing symp
toms, and a persistent use of it for a reason
able length of time will permanently cure
cases of long standing. A dose of Pe-ru-na
befdre each meal during the hot season is a
safeguard of priceless value, especially to
those who are in the least subject to nervous
prostration.
Complete directions for use on each
bottle. Eor treatise on nervous prostration
and diseases of the nervous system send for
copy of The Family Phvsician Ho. 1. Sent
whistled duets.
lecturer is the card that usually draws, the
curiosity Deing not tnat sne sneacs so well.
but that she speaks at all, like tha monkey's
waltzing. The piety of to-day loads itself
with manifold contrivances, burdensome as
the responsibilites of business houses, but
where religion is out of the question.
Saturday is the day for outdoor games.
A dozen girls could not find themselves
in a game of skipping rope by accident to
day. All is premeditated, cut and dried.
There must he a tennis club, or an archery
club, to play for prizes, like that which is
driving its stakes under my own window to
day, to the demolition of all privacy and
quiet. Why, with acres of shaded, unoccu
pied ground about, it was necessary to plant
the tennis club within 25 feet of a citizen
I understandmcr.
jjuc wnere is tne place oi unaerstanamgr
The deep saith it is not in me.
Shikiex Dark.
of fish was destroyed, and that the season I free by the Pe-ru-na Medicine Company,,
.was -over-for -catching anymore,.set up aJColumbast Ohio.
who values peace and stillness more than
any one in the place, can't be de
termined, but it illustrates the considera
tion for neighbors which prevails among
young people.
The Public Must Hear About It
A hearty game under the shade of one's
own home grounds does not satisfy the girl
.of to-day. She wants the club and a re
porter to put "the names in the paper,"
and match games played against the club in
the next town, all of which tends to good
feeling and the repose so much lauded in
modern ethics. The papers let us once in a
while into the politics oi a ladies' club
elections, with their months of pipelaying
and wirepulling, their tricks at the polls
and the general sweetness and unselfishness
cultivated.
There is little pride or satisfaction left in
simply doing one s best, whether in a uni
versity course, an athletic contest or a liter
ary club. Kothing satisfies without the
public audience, the newspaper mention,
with the doings of rowdies in the next
column. To the modern woman who is the
true product of her time her days are all
Saturdays. 2f ot content with.duties to fam
ily and friends and self-culture, she takes to'
dragging a path roller for the promotion of
some public enterprise. It may be a
52,000,000 building for women, or a statne
daughters of their grandmothers, or a fund
for teaching the Upper Burmese dialects,
she harnesses herself to her iron roller and
drags it with her in street and drawing
room wherever she goe. The worst is she
calls her friends' attention to it, and if pos
sible gets them to take a turn pushing it
Schemes the Modern Women Have.
A friend, who is much of a country
mouse, left her home for a few weeks in the
city last spring- Her report on her return,
was that she had not met a single woman'
who had not a scheme to push, and who did.
not ask her assistance and "influence." One
had a college for girls, one a hotel for
women, one a university, another a band of
Pilgrim descendants, a fifth wanted a statue
for the dead and gone queen who had as
much of a tombstone as she called oranv-
how, a sixth wanted a great hygienic reno
vating establishment, a seventh proposed
the collection of genealogical data. No
wonder the country mouse came home in a
state of nervous nrostration and vowed she
would never enter town again except in dis
THEY CONVERTED COOPER.
How the Fox Girls Convinced the Great
Novelist There Was Something in Spirit
ualism A Famous Test The Toe Joint
Story Exploded.
The recent statement by one of the "Fox
girls," of Bochester rappings fame, declar
ing that all the spirit sounds and noises were
caused by the cracking of her toe joints,
leads me to give an account of a remarkable
seance with these three girls at the time
they paid their first visit to.New York, says
Richard B. Kimball in the New York Timet.
After perusing; it I think the reason will he
satisfied, whatever of deception may. have
been practiced, that the toe joint story is an
ineffable humbug.
It was in 1850 that the Fox girls came to
New York, astounding reports having pre
ceded them of the noisy visitation of the
spirits which had literally compelled them
to leave their home. Dr. Bufus W. Gris
wold, the author and critic, occupied rooms
at that time on Broadway between Bleecker
The invitation was accepted. At the ap
pointed hour the Allowing gentlemen met
in Dr. Griswold's appartments: J. Feni
more Cooper, George Bancroft, W. C. Bry
ant, the Kev. Dr. Hawkes, Dr. John W.
Francis, Dr. E. E. ilarcy, John Bigelow,
and myself. The three Fox girls came
promptly. They were seated by a table,
but not near enough to touch it The com
pany made a large circle around it. and we
l all impatiently waited for the "perform-
vaded our little assembly.
Half an hour passed and the spirits made
no sign. The girls were repeatedly asked
how Boon they would begin to demonstrate.
They replied gravely that the spirits were
not under their control, that they had inti
mated that they would be present that was
all they could say.
At length raps began to be heard, sound
ing like slight shocks from an electric bat
tery. Questions were at once in order, and
Dr. Francis toolcthe floor. His interroga
tories were leading ones, and at the end of a
few minutes he resigned in favor of Dr.
Hawkes, the Fox girls getting the best of
it With Dr. Hawkes, who had been bred
a lawyer, things did not flow so smoothly
with them, but there were several answers
which excited surprise.
Cooper "Was a Skeptic
I was seated next to Mr. Cooper, and I
perceived he exhibited much impatience
while the questioning was going on. When
Dr. Hawkes finished. Cooper exclaimed,
"Let me have hold of them." He beirau
'accordingly. Here 'are the qnestions and
answers:
"Some years ago I lost a near relative.
Was it a male or a female?"
"A female."
"Bv a natural death, or otherwise?"
"Otherwise."
"Please rap the number of years since the
person died."
The rappings began. We all listened at
tentively, counting the number. As it ran
from 20 to 30, from 30 to 40, from 40 to 50,
webeganJo hold our'breath. The rappings
stopped at 58. There was some discussion
whether it was 57 or 58, and it was rapped
over again at 58.
I had watched Cooper narrowly. As the
raps proceeded he became deadly pale. At
the conclusion all eyes were turned on
him.
"Gentlemen," said he, "when I was about
2 years old, my sister was killed by being
thrown from her horse. The years since
then have been correctly rapped."
Satisfied Every Test
I saw that Cooper was profoundly affect
ed. This did not, however, stop the pro
ceedings. Sir. Bancroft suggested that the
rappings should be transferred to the door,
he being on one side and Bryant on the
other. No questions were asked, but the
raps came out strong. After some further
experiments we adjourned with the feeling
that we had not succeeded in "confounding
the Fox girls," and we agreed that the least
said about it the better.
Fenimore Cooper died about IS months
after this occurrence. Two or three vears
later I was dining with Mr. Phinney, of the
book firm of Ivison &Phinney, and a near
connection of Air. Cooper's. In the course
of conversation he asked me if I knew
Cooper had become a confirmed Spiritualist
before his death. I said I did not He as
sured me of the fact, but could not account
for it. I told him I believed I could ac
count for it, and I repeated to him what I
have now recorded here.
THE LADY BB00KE GOWK.
Mrs. Harrison and Mrs. McKee Made a Hit
in XondonXresed in It.
The two most admired American women
fust now are Jfrs. Bussell Harrison and
Mrs. McKeej-says a London correspondent
All London is going a little mad over them,
and the Lin coins share in the reflected
glory as their sponsors and introducers. At
the State concert the two handsome sisters-in-law
made a decided sensation by appear-
ing in what is now known as the "famous
Lady Brooke gown" L e., a soft, heavy
white silk, made with wide satin "braces,"
thick-sewn with diamonds, worn over full
bodices of niousseline de soie, sprinkled
with tiny brilliants. Mrs. Harrison, who
is fair and. pretty, wore the "diamond"
gown, further enhanced by a deep pattern
embroidered in brilliants just above the
hem of the skirt, and ' Jlrs. McKee ap
peared in a twin costume, wherein pearls
did duty for diamonds.
Test it Yourself.
Cleveland's Baking Powder is perfectly $ure. The same
cidiiu 13 luduc iui puwuua auuiictaicu win am
monia and alum, but you can settle the question
yourself. " Boil a teaspoonful of the baking powder
ip a teaspoonful of water ; if adulterated the smell
of. ammonia can be detected in the steam."
Cleveland 's Baking Powder is the strongest. It is' the
most effective and economical. Try it, A tea
cnnnnful of Cleveland's will do more and better
strength. wori-. than a heaping teaspoonful of other powders.
Food made -with Cleveland 's keeps moist and -fresh for
Test it
for
Purity.
Test it
for
Test it
by
Results.
days, but if made with others soon dries out and
becomes "husky." Cleveland's leavens evenly
making fine grained, delicately fibred breads and
cakes, results produced by no other leavening agent.
Cleveland's Baking Powder
Stands all Tests
1
i -
I