yrrKjt vwew 1 ZTi7 X ' i. 20 ipar pp tifHU . ,'iK-seiiL ir ii i PAEIS TYPES OF BEAUTY. Two Ttepresentallves of Tin do Siecle Femi ninity as Seen in the Gay TTcnch Capital Hair Tliat Almost Startles How raris ian Women Kcallj Dress. rCOKKESrOSBZCE OF THE DISPATCH. Pjuiis, May 22. In every decade there is a peculiar style of feminine physical charm which takes the ascend ant All the women, more or less, try to copy it; all the men succumb to its fascination. It is as well-defined a fashion as long gowns or short gowiis, high hats or low hats. At present, in Paris, 4 wMv-'f'te) femininity designated un- 7f llJllfdl er tne term fin de siecle. VjWfff At the salon of the S Champs de Mars there is lg. l. a certain portrait, around which there cluster groups of interested spectators. Tot all admire, hut none pass hy indifferently. The lady stands upright in sharp relief against a dark background, garbed in simple white, whose flat draperies are confined about the waist by two narrow, pale, pink ribbons. A very lone, white neck; ohoulders and bust, thin to thinness, though without suspicion of bones; arms slender and bare; the face turned away in direct piofile; the tinting of the whole skin all one equal, even, luminous, pinkish white Hair That Discounts Xature. Taken back absolutely straight from fore head so high and wide that it resembles a marble tablet, rf- are undulated erY? 'J:a extraordinary L JTSS shadcof red hair; hair that nature never made of that precie tint, since it has ab solutely car mine touches under the brown, but hair neverthe less so startling and so super artistic, that it seems sacrilege to suegest the idea ot dye in c o nnect ion with it. Be neath the tab let-like fore head eyebrows hat look like a pen cu line; eyes small and long, with a little smile in them; a Ion? sharp Fig. noe exceedingly delicate of contour; a slender-lipped mouth, alo smiling enig matically at the corners. This keen profile stands out more distinctly by virtue of the protuberance of carmine hair rolled up in fin de siecle antiquitv above the nape of the neck. Incontestably striking, though no longer young, (with the iery first youth), the original of the portrait was present at the opening ofthe salon, sur rounded by a little court of men, followed thiongh the crowd by long, curious glances. This well-known person is one of the fin de siecle beauties. In another roomr at the Champs de 3Iars behold the portrait of that essence of all Parisian modernity, Toattc Guilbert. An impressionist panel, long and narrow, against which the very chic singer of concert-hall naughty songs (now sought after also in all the most aristocratic drawing rooms of Paris, whose guests she entertains), stands out with a pervorsely comic suggestion of an olden-time saint in. a missaL Details or a Second Type. She wears a gown of some flowered satin, with greenish tones upon which there strikes a yel low reflection as of footlights. These blended hues haie dyed off, in the prop er impression ist faiion, on her slim arms, gloved with black above the elbow. As tonishiuglv de collete thebod ice; but modest theefiect. iNot a fragment of lace, not an Yinch of tulle, not a flower. not a ribbon to break the harshness of that figured iinpressi o n i s t robe against the skin. In short, not a be coming toilet; and of a sim plicity of lines so very ingen uous that it could only be the outcome 'of artful study. And finally the face: 2arrou e v e d, narrow- lipped again, with the chin tilted on one side in that attitude which, corresponding with the crossed hands in front, has become familiar to all Paris as the diva's character istic one. Of course, the ejes and lips smile that quite indefinable smile that you must not try to dissect, but must take for granted as the very triplv-distilled extract of the fin de siecle perfume. And, once more, the hair drawn up from the entabla ture of a squari" lorehc.id, culminating in a pyramidal knot on top; the extreme de- Ice of coquury hi- reason, exactly, of its entire repudiation of anything flattering. Before this portrait also the crowd pauses, smiles, feels itself particularly in Paris, conscious of suggestions in the atmosphere it could never get elsewhere. These are two good examples of fin de siecle feminiuity. It is like caviar. You have to become accustomed to it in order to like it. It is a taste that has to be acquired. American Women Get tlio Best. Nothing you will see could be. farther from the conventional ideal of style than such a tj peas this. Perhaps when one is on a scent one is inclined to carry it a little too far; but it certainly seems that this same conventional style or stylishness, has neith er the vogue, nor the votaries, nor the per fection in Paris that it once had. The sup plyers are just as good, but the best they iave to give nowjigoes on the back of xi d i nvATwa - I. I MA aoil IfV'KCT V.tViil .' KI Utt "IIP EV-4?y MS fiuiwy A pi jll I III1 '''l l J77. S. ram DHAK5 If ifS" American women. "We do not originate so many pretty things in America; but my word, we w e a r . - tliim hpttprl Some Xims.. cnange naa pusseu over the Paris ennc; whether it be the fin de siecle influence, or what not. she no longer looks quite s o much like a trim yacht under full sail as she used. And to speak frankly, Idon't think she cares to look so any longer to the same extent, having perhaps an other more ague and less precise 5i1e.il. As thin us nw cf nnd her flnr- ? vtnrvo fll-flGS 1C TA1". . haps her best ef fort. She certain lv looks attract! i ive just now driv ing out totneiiois under the bloom of the chestnuts. Besides she knows how to sit back in the corner of a Victoria with an air of which we Ampnoflns as vet have not attained. Figure 4- ; Another thing she does to perfection: She guards the careful outlines of her figure. The corset-maker has the position of a priestess. Every little provincial who comes up to Paris has her corset made to order and pajs her S10 or 512 for it, though for the A -l.n . .. 1.... n.i.1 f T. rn nlkttlAB TMO I rcM tuc way uuy uiuab ui uci uuium .v . . Louvre. The corset made to order is not a luxury; it is a necessity m her eyes, A Very Commendable Trait. Iet ns say the same of the daintiness, the extraordiny fantasy, expended upon what dim nulla Tiai noc. sous. After all, a plain gown, worn overa bewildering rustle of silken skirt, and white garment through which colored rib bons run amid falls of lace, is a very fine research for coquetry. It Is not an upstart's standard at alL In the wild and woolly "West we should be inclined to reverse that or der fine clothes audunfine under clothes. Now, if you want a few partic ular details: "Worth and his clan are making that i s, skirts that flare out around the feet and abjure the tie-back. You i look drawn-in by vonr skirt in front. The newest hat is a little round of straw, indented Figure S. regularly all about like a cake that has come out of a mould. It is set squarely on 4nA n nFihr linafl null a little loose bimch of very fine flowers thrown on top of it with stiff aigrettes of velvet ribbon. The newest shoe is out of all measure, long and pointed as a toothpick. The Louis XV. coat flares back over the most spring-like of vests, which are of erepe and lace, even for the street Finally, the little Henri IV. cape is, in its latest evolution, of crepe de shine, plaited over the shoulders into an innumer able quantity of accordeon plaits. A. O. WOMAN'S WOULD ILUJSTBATIOHS. Something About the Style. That May As sist Home Dressmakers. The hat shown in Fig. 1 is the latest thing from London. It will be much worn this summer with tailor-made suits. It is called at wiU tht "Tyrol," "Canoe" or "Brighton," the first name being the most appropriate, as it is a simple little affair of rough straw with rolling brim and the crown dented in. It is very muc'i the same thing as what is calledan English walkinghat.-with modifications. It is trimmed with a pair of high ears, or wings, on the side. It will be found an excellent hat for knocking about and for common use. The second illustration shows a design from Paris that is represented as very pop ular. A lavender and white tennis gown is shown in Fig 3. It is of the English homespun that is now woven as light as lawn. The belted bodice is a familiar shape, with wide pointed collar and belt of plain wool, piped on the edge with white wool. Full sleeves droop on full cuffs of lavender wool. The skirt, with slight 'movement" in front, has panels of laven der on each side. A hat of the plain laven der wool is trimmed with loops of white ribbon. A seaside toilet is shown in Fig. 4. The picture, which is from Harper's Bazar, tells its own story. It is very simple, fashioned exquisitely by Worth from soft fine wool of the pale tint of Persian lilacs. The rich camail, or bishop's mantle, by the same ar tistic designer, is of cream-colored molleton, a soft flannel-like cloth. It is studded with jet cabochons, and has a yoke of jetted pas sementerie, with rain fringe of jet and a flaring collar finished with a lace rutt Gal loon of jet borders the garment The hat, from the Maison Virot, is of transparent black horse-hair popularly known here as Neapolitan braid. Curled black ostrich tips surround the crown. Eose-colored rib bon is added in erect wired loops at the back, and long streamers hanging down to the waist A parasol of white chiffon mous scline completes the toilet. Light green embroidered drap d'ete is the material of the costume Fig. S. It is made with a draped bodice connected by an em broidered belt to the skirt, which is em broidered at the front Accompanying it is a long sleeveless paletot, with border of em broidery and flounces of black lace. LANTERNS FOB DEC0BATI0NS, They Do Not Shed Mnch Light, but It Is Subdued and BeantUoL Perhaps no article is of greater value for decorative purposes than the lantern, and these are so varied in design that something different may be had for each room. The most expensive are those made of iron and brass. They hang from the ceiling, the light dim Veligious, always from lanterns glimmering through the holes and cracks made by the carvings and designs. The gauze lanterns with lacquered rBM r 31 fA J waiv r-' mMI THE less expensive, and bein in four different sizes are acceptable for lighting purposes in four separate rooms. While no vast amount of light is given from lanterns, they take away from the complete darkness of a room, and the effect of the coloring is desirable. There are even lanterns of silfc paper: These are suitable for the corners of rooms and the piazza. Lanterns of teak woo'd for halls are six sided, and may be arranged for oil, gas or candle. SnTNEBS FOB A WKiX Slenus for the Couple That Gets on With a Thousand a Tear. The following dainty dinner menu for a week is furnished the New York World by one interested in young couples whose in come is $1,000 a year or so. The dinners are for a gentleman, his wife, a child of say 5 years, and one servant The portion of the income left for clothing is not guaranteed, but it is suggested that no matter how lim ited the means of the parents of the bride who is to live on ?1,000 a year, she generally leaves her father's house with a trousseau that "with a little making over will last for years. Here is the menu: SUNDAY. Omelette souffle $ 15 4K lb. roasting chicken Miblet Total t 77 grary) $ 90 M peck spinach 13 Masned notitoes OS NOTE. Enough will be left of the lamb to serve for breakfast, thus pay ing for seasoning, oil, vlncear. etc.. used at the Celery .' 10 Icecream 4j Graham wafers 5 dinners. TnunSDAY. Total tlCS Nora. A 5-eent soup- Shoulder veal C3 Sweet potatoes 7 btewed celery, with drawn butter 15 Custard pudding IS Done, wmi nair can to matoes, will last three umci. MONDAT. Chicken left from Sun dar. minced on toast. Total 8103 Only half will be eaten and the rest put by for a veal pie for Saturday's dinner. FRIDAY. Soup (3d time) 4 Scalloped oysters.... 33 Lettuce 5 Mashed potatoes S Half can com 8 Lemon pie 2) with gravy made from; the bones, Potatoes, mashed... .f S V, can tomatoes 7 Lettuce 5 Boiled Uk pudding... 15 Total I TUESDAY. Soup f IK sirloin steak Slashed potatoes Carrots with drawn Total 77 SATURDAY Veal pie I 10 Mashed potatoes 5 Onions, with drawn butter 10 Lemon Jelly :.. 15 Total t 40 Total for week (5 61 butter 10 Cut up oranges 10 Total S WEDNESDAY. Soup $ Small shoulder yea- line lamb Mashed potatoes Lettuce...-. FANS FOB THE SEASON. Pretty Designs That Most Correspond With the Costuroe Worn. The summer gown is not complete with out a fan which blends with it, says the New York Times. A pretty fan, to be car ried with a black net dress, is one made of black gauze on which the fleur de lys is painted. Th'e sticks are of black sheik An other pretty black gaiiza fan has Bilver sticks, and embroidered all over the fan in silver threads are hugebutterflies, silver tinsel being used for their wings. One fan is made of white silk, with black point lace butterflies upon it The sticks are of mother of pearl, and here and there upon them is a tiny butterfly done in black enamel. A fan which blends well with a "violet gown is of green gauze. Painted over the lower part are violets, peeping out from beneath green leaves. This fan ismot very larje, and does not close. The handle is of gold, with a bunch of five purple enamel violets with diamond centers for its top. Many of the fans to be used this summer are covered with jeweled bugs. Fans made of dark shades of silk will have upon them strange-looking beetles with jeweled wings. A very dainty fan is half of shirred crepe lisse. Where the shirring ends is indicated by a fine silver thread. The upper part of the fan is whito silk,with pink clover and its green leaves painted upon it. The stems can be seen through the shirring, and the clover looks as if it was just lifting up its head to peep out at the world from the shirred crepe. The handle is silver. A fan made of yellow marabout feathers has sticks of shell. In one can be seen the face of a tiny gold watch. White ostrich feather fans, with pearl handles and the owner's initials formed of her favorite gem, some where on the handle, are in vogue. AH ICE EASILY MADE. How to Make a Cafe Mousse That WIU Be Delightful In Hot Weather. A "cafe mousse" Is one of .the best ices we have, and one of the easiest to make, says the New York Trxbwne. Grind fine half a cup of coffee, and .put it in a thin muslin bag. Pour very slowly over the coffee a cup of boiling water, let it drip through, and then pour the coffee over a second time, making a fine Mocha essence. JSeat the yolks of two eggs together with hnlf a cup of sugar, add the coffee and stir the mixture over the fire for three minutes, being care ful that the eggs do not curdle. Eemove the custard from the fire and let it cool, beating it some, and then mix it carefully with' two quarts of dry whipped cream, measured after whipping. Put the mixture in the can of an ice cream freezer, after re moving the beater. Cover the can, cork up the aperture where the beater goes in, and pack the can in ice and salt, be ing careful to use twice as much salt in the packing as will be needed to freeze an ice cream. A gallon mould requires about three pints of salt to pack a mousse properly. After packing, set the freezer containing the mousse away for at least six hours, to become perfect A mousse should have a mossy texture; therefore it should not be stirred while it is freezing. The French chefs make their cafe mousses out of whipped cream alone, flavored with three tablespoonfuls of coffee essence to the Suart, and sweetened. Their coffee essence icy maife by pouring a cup and a half of cold water over three ounces of ground Mocha coffee and reducing the mixture by boiling to three teaspoonfuls. This essence is then strained through a cloth and used at once. TEE PE0PEE THING IK SHOES. Comfort and Beauty In the Pointed Picca dilly to Be Worn Tills Season. There is no doubt that the pointed Pic cadilly shoe has come to abide for a season at least All the newest low shoes are made with this toe and a low vamp. Unless the point ofthe toe is exaggerated, so that it is extreme, it is not uncomfortable, and forms, with the low heel, as becoming and at the same time as sensible a shoe as any one needs to wear. While upon this subject one may ask: Did you eversonsult a thor oughlyintelligent phvsioianor anyone who makes a specialty of treating corns and trivial affections of the feet, as to the advis ability of adopting any of the eccentrically shaped shoes in the market? In all cases experts will tell you to adopt a comfortable, well-fitting shoe that holds the foot firmly together, .and not one.loose enough to allow your foot to move about in it and make cal lous places by friction. There is far more danger of creating corns with too loose a shoe than with one too tight; though, of course, a tight shoe may draw the bones of the feet out of place, and, as a matter of fact, there are very few feet that are beautiful because the bone of the great toe joint is usually drawn out of place enough to break the straight line of grace on that side of the foot. Abundant bathing, the daily use of the foot-bath and friction towel, and frequent changes ofthe stockings and shoes will acromplish wonders for af flicted feet Low shoes are far better for them than high shoes, because they give more freedom. Some women, however, have trouble with their ankles swelling when when they wear low shoes, but this is due largely to the want of exercise. It is a sort of dropsical affliction caused by a debilitated condition of the system. A Novelty In Dollies. A novel idea for a set of doilies is to have aHower and an appropriate motto for each month. The old poets Spenser and Chau cer furnish many mottoes, and one may with very little trouble sketch in the de sired flower much store satisfactorily than Ifitamptd, PITTSBURG DISPATCH, GETTING OVER GBIP. Shirley Dare Says If s Best to Take Things Easy for a While. POINTS CONCERNING COMPLEXION. Glycerine Taken Internally and the Merita of Salicylic Acid. HQT BATHS BEST TAKEN AT NIGHT - V WBirraJT TOB THE DISPATCH, FTER prostrating illness nothing is more resting than to rest and let nice folk do all the talk ing. "When not up to the mark qf study or gardening itispleasanttotake the train less than an hour's ride to the factory, where one is permitted to lounge unmolesting and unmo lested in its dainty precincts. It sounds odd to sp'eak of dainty work shops, yet not a few of these New England manufactories not cotton mills or foundries vie with private houses in the fresh clean liness demanded by their work and in their setting of shorn'turf and vine hung walls. The fresh, unpainted woodwork is sweet as ceiling of cedar, the outlook is a shallow valley, with an old road outlined by elms and blue hills for distance; nearer the glad sparkle of waters in the spring sun. One broad southern window seat I specially like when the sun is off, for it looks down into a little nook of cedars and birches that crowd to the edge of the enclosure, while on the other hand the head of the concern has its work table, ranged with still, filters and boilers bright with nickel and brass, fit for a parlor table. A Tory Paradise of Odors. Along the wall are ranged queer bottles, cans of perfumery extracts and pomades of price. It is grateful to uncork these vials and breathe spirit of Cannes violets, tube roses, jasmine, cassie; lemon verbena and the stronger oils which form bases of rich and tantalizing odors. There is a mountain of origanum and thyme, lavender from Provence and stimulating mountain herbs from the Grand Chartreuse, pungent and pleasing, with the lighter essences of flowers from redolent bouquets, of Marchale and Ia Seine, des Indes, des Alpes and a dozen other titles of elegance. They have a newpharmaeien at the works, the proprietor breaking down last March be tween la grippe and the struggle to carry on business and make up for the deficiencies of ordinary employes. How many men I have seen try to do the same thing in other work, pervading every department, with their own ability making up for the deficiencies of a score of half-rate people, finally to discover they were not gods, but men, and only one man at that How many business enterprises this wretched grip has upsetl What a Missing 3Ian Accounts For. Old establishments where everything used to go like clockwork got sadly out of joint in all departments, orders not attended to, goods sent on approval uncalled for, ac counts muddled, all arrangements unsatisfac tory, and when the difference forced itself uuon one it was discovered that one auiet. decided man who used to be seen about the great house at times was missed and lay battling with undermining disease. His oversight, his will, his clear judicial sense had kept that great business together, and wnen nis acuvny was expenaea mere was no more soul or unity in the affairs of the great house. A good business man deserves as much credit as any other genius, and how much he is worth can only be told when it is a question of finding some one to fill his place. One after another well recommended person is tried, only io be discarded for blunders. Men do well enough under an efficient head who go to pieces the moment they are left to their own direction. The spring has seen much of this demoralization of business, though care is taken to say little about it Tho Man With Original Ideas. My friend is refurnishing her house this season. The orders were ready, it was sup posed, seven weeks ago, but first one fore man was sick and then another, and lastly tho head of the department went down and nothing is right The carpet went the wrong way, the curtains did not match, the iurnituie was bright finish when a dull ono had been ordered, and nothing could be set right till that poor man got off his sick bed to attend to it All his hands seemed stricken with imbecility. They could go right with a sharp eye on every half day's work, but originate or comprehend an orig inal idea or correct a mistake they could not. And the lingering of that dreadful disease baffles all calculation. The man with the care of a large business upon him was sure he would be down at the office "the first of next week," and the Saturday came and he had not gained enough to leave his own house. He felt as if he certainly should be out of doors when a sunny day came, but it found him too weak to get out of bed. That is the way of this heathen disorder. You only want to lie abed warmly .and doze all day. Conver sation exhausts you. a grasshopper of care weighs down your shoulders. Worse Than a Itallroad Accident. It is too much struggle to get one's wants properly attended to; you want what you want without muoh speaking; above all you want your three or four delicate nourishing meals a day, and if you Jon't get them to a minute collanse ensues. Yon want to sleen with the dusk, and it is cruelty when friends- Keep you awage one minute longer, lor a half hour's chat then may cost sleep for most of the night. You need gentle care and tender letting alone, and this state of infant weakness lasts weeks and month. during w"hich you must move at the same T careful rate. It is hard that sunerers can not exact damages from the city or the house whose Hegligcn.ce deprives them of so much vitality. A railway accident is no harder to bear, no more destructive or de pressing. As I was saying, they have a new phar macien at the works. The dark, serious face of the owner is sadly missing, but the new man is interesting, with a keen, sharp glitter about him in his sharp black eyes, crisp, shining hair and quick hands, which show a dash of French blood. He is not speculative or original, but what he. knows he knows, and his certificate of pharmacy, which hangs on the wall, is well deserved! A good pharmacien has to know a good deal of many(sciences of mathematics to calcu late analysis; of chemistry, to understand the relation of substances of botany and minerals, besides nice manipulations. A Man Worth While Watching;. A careless or stupid boy has no right to attempt the art Pierre, which I call him because it isn't his name or anything like it, is brisk, knowing, decided, and if others do not know their part they are apt to learn from him. I like to lounge in the window seat and watch him as he dives first at one thing, then at another, over his enamelled pans and-fine porcelain fireproof dishes, his stills and digesters and filters and fine sieves of silk. It doesn't put him out to be watched, for all his mind is intent on the work in hand, but he has always space for a cheery word or a humorous chat between times. A person who knows something out of the common and knows how to tell it is the best of companions, especially when he is kind enough to do all the talking. He is great on cosmetics, powders and, paints and dyes, which are frowned upon in the establishment. He is also knowing in the latter science of the toilet, having studied with a fine physician for skiu dis eases. He doesn't believe in facial mas--sage, at least not in overdoing it, and is thoroughly put out as he speaks of a letter from a woman who used his preparation and gave it to ner mentis, wao au rupoea tnetr ttcuwjtb U sor ten Cffi? uauiw, ja conse. i SUNDAY, MAT 31,' quence two or three had a woful breaking out on the skin. "If they had rubbed their faces so without anything most 'of them would break out. It is a wonder they did not take the Bkin off in the process." ' Better let the Trouble Come Out In spring especially they must be careful of these forcible methods, for the blood is ir ritable, and ten minutes', rubbing of any' part is enough to bring on rash or eczema, even with the mildest cold cream or if noth ing at all is used. Nature throws the blood to the surface, and the skin only wants ithe slightest excuse to breakout in different' ways. Eat watercress or pungent salads like mustard freely, and the first effect very likely will be a cold sore; but better out thad in. Very much better. Cases are not infre quent where chronic inflammation of the stomach is greatly relieved by a rash on the skin. I recall a beautiful society woman afflicted with some digestive trouble from which she was never free except when a brilliant rash spread over her face. Then she felt entirely well, but when her face re sumed its clearness and delicacy the in ternal irritation began. Her friends knew she was feeling her best and wittiest when her beauty was gone. Especially such sub stances as eggs or fish not particularly fresh, or meats or stews kept too long un ventilated, though no change will be de tected by ordinary sense?, will irritate the digestive tract and leave traces on the skin which a little over-friction will render re pulsive. Glycerluo Taken Internally. It is a privilege to talk over some of the inquiries I get worn women with this clear headed specialist. I recalled a late inquiry about the value of one of the fancy glycer ines as a cosmetic "They are much the same thing,1' wa3 the ans.ver. "Starch or tragacanth dissolved in glycerine, with per haps a trifle of alcohol, and heated in a water bath till it is like jelly. It is a starch or gum made with glycerine instead of water. Women had better take their glycerine internally if they can find it pure enough. Frenchpnysicians give it in some forms of skin disease( especially in acne and boils, beginning with four teaspoonfuls. a day. Thick secretions grow liquid and the irritation of the skin is greatly relieved. The skin is more active in throwing off old matter and forming fresh. You know glycerine is used in many medicines, nota bly in the famous rock "and rye for con sumption. "The only difficulty is in getting pufe glycerine to take. I should use only vege table glycerine, which is purified from olive and cottonseed oils, and less likely to have the bitter and dangerous principle of im pure animal glycerines." A girl writes to know what sort of sali cylic acid is sold at 10 cents an ounce, as her doctor tells her that salicylic acid for medical use is not less than 80 cents an ounce. Facts About Salicylic Acid. Doctors and apothecaries like to bewil der people. There is salicylic acid sold as high as tl 20 an ounce, derived from spireas and wintergreen yielding small percentage of the acid, and it is also derived from car bolic acid and so cheaply that it sells at re tail at 10 cents an ounce, in quality perfect ly safe for external use on corns, etc., and it is ofter. dispensed for internal prescrip tions. This acid, used externally, has a marked effect on fungous and morbid growths on the skin like moles, yellow freckles and moth Eatches. Use a 10 per cent solution in alco ol, and sponge the spots or moles often as possible every hour, if one can think of it letting the acid dry on the skin. I can't say it is a specific, but it comes nearest to it of any drug known. For internal use, in dyspepsia or rheumatism, a tea of winter green leaves or black birch is preferable, from four to eidht tablespoonfuls of astron? decoction being taken at each dose, three or four times a day. Meadow sweet, spirea ulmaria also contain salicylic acid, or the salicyl aldehyde, which by oxidizing be comes the acid. The aldehyde is the safer agent of the two. An Aid to the Complexion. An infusion of meadow sweet flowers drank freely improves the complexion and clears the blood of scrofulous taint The rule for making infusions is ten times as much boiling water as ofthe herb poured on the latter in a tight closed jar, boiled two or three minutes, then allowed to stand where it will keep hot for two hours. Pour to eight tablespoonfuls is a dose, which may be taken three to six timc3 a day. White willow is an old remedy in fevers, long used in Europe and still largely pre scribed by the bakims or doctors of India and Afghanistan. The juice of the fresh willow leaves largely diluted is preferred to quinine for intermittent fevers, as it has less irritating effect The sap ofthe willow gathered by slitting the bark when the tree is in flower is an old cosmetic and good to cure redness of eyes and dim sight. Thegreatest use for salicylic acid, how ever, is in preventing smallpox. Dr. Bryce, ofthe Southern Clinic, Dr. Claridge and Dr. De Caibbol testify to its good effect, and Dr. Bryce says: "I believe that given early and fteely the acid will place smallpox in the list with measles, chicken pox and other trifling diseases." Another question put to me is: "Is it best to bathe the face, as advised, in very hot water and then in very cold?" I should say not. This hardening -off of the face suddenly is likely to cause paraly sis and that droop of the muscles at the corners of the chin which make a face so old and weak. The face is full of delicate nerves and blood vessels, and the cooling after steaming it or washing in hot water should be very gradual. Bathe the face in tepid water and dry carefully on a warm, soft towel and let it alone, especially being careful not to go out for an hour afterward. The Best Time for Hot Baths. Immense harm is done by taking vapor baths and going out in spring winds when the system is heated and perspiring. Pro prietors of bath houses should refuse to give baths which will not allow at least an hour's rest before persons leave the building. The consequences of neglect on this point are that vapor and hot Daths generally will lose their repute from the injury of going out too soon after taking them'.' Persons who bathe are not aware ot the risk, and it is the pro prietor's place to inform them. Hot baths and face baths are best taken at home and at night, so that a night's sleep may temper the system afterward. If you want to produce good effect on the skin steamlt at night, wipe dry and powder it with fine sulphur, dusted on with a pow der puff. Sleep with this on, wash off in the morning and rub in a very little of this delicious cerate, lightly rubbing most along the lines of the face. A bit the size of a large pea is quite enough, and one minute's rubbing by the clock is all the time that ought to be spent on the soft fabric of the skin. Don't rnb it in, but rub it out to spread it over the face. This will prevent the natural moisture from drying with wind and heat. After an hour or two wash the face if necessary, only don't rub-off all the film which protects the skin and merely supplies the place of the natural sterine which prevents evaporation from the pores. Over a month since, in referring to the depilatory effects of a well known prescrip tion, whose virtues are .constantly attested by ladies who write me, a misprint dividing the sentence quite reversed its meaning. Those who have called the writer to account for self-contradiction will accept this late explanation. Shirley Daee. CANNING SWEET CHEEEIES. They Are One ot the Best of Fruits for Preserving for Future Use. Housekeepers should be reminded that the sweetv cherry is one of the best fruits wo have for canning. Its flavor is insipid when preserved in sugar in the old-fashioned way. The sour Morella cherry, however, makes a delicious preserve. Tho distinction between a canned and pre served fruit should always be observed. A A canned fruit is cooked in tho jar it is put up in, in a light syrup, and sealed up boil ing hot; a preserved fruitis cooked in a pre serving kettle in a heavy syrup and is then put in jars, and is often cooled before it is sealed up. Household goods packed, and stored, su HAVOE & Kektait, 33 Water rt, 189L MANAGING A, PICNIC.' Mrs. Sherwood's Directions for a Pleasant Day in the Woods. CONTENTS OP THE BIG BASKETS. A Delicious Sandwich and a Prink Fit for Sweltering Gods. POETBT THAT GOES "WITH AN' OUTING WaiTTKNTOBraB DIBPAICH.31 Come hither, come hither, the broom was In blossom all over yon rise; There went a wild murmur of Drown bees about it witli songs from the wood. Wo shall never he younger, O lovel let ns forth, for the world neath our eyes Aye! the world is made young, e'en as we, and right fair Is her youth, and right good. Appetites flourish in the free air of hills and meadows, and after drinking in the ozone of the sea one feels like drinking something else. There is a very good story of a reverend bishop, who, with a friend, went afishing, like Peter, and, being very thirsty, he essayed to drawthe cork of a claret bottle; but in his zeal he struck his bottle against a stone, and the claret oozed out to refresh the thirsty earth instead of that precious porcelain of human clay of which the bishop was made. His remark was, to his friend: "James, you are a layman; why don't yon say some thing?" ' ,Now, to avoid having our layman or our reverend wish to "say something," let us'try to suggest what they should eat and what they should drink. TheBest Kind of a Picnic. There are many kinds of picnics. Eash ionable vones at Newport and other watering places, where the French waiters of the period are told to get up a repast as if at the Casino, and there are clambakes which are ideal; there are picnics at Lenox and at Sharon where the hotel keeper will help to fill the baskets. But the real picnic which calls for talent and executive ability should emanate from some country house where two or three other country houses shall co operate and help. Then what jolly drives in the brake, what queer old family horses and antedeluvian wagons, what noble dog carts and what prim pony phaetons can join in the procession. It should be a fine day, and the place se lected a hillside with trees commanding a fine view, that at least is recommended. The necessity of a short walk, a short scramble after leaving the horses, should not be disregarded. The night before the picnic, which presumably starts early, the lady of the house should see to it that a boiled ham of perfect flavor is in readiness, and she may flank it with a boiled tongue, four roasted chickens, a game pie, and any amount of stale bread to cut into sand wiches. The Secret of tho Sandwich. Now a sandwich can be at once the best and the worst thing in the world, but to make it the best the bread should be cut very thin, the butter, which must be as fresh as a cow's lip, should be spread with deft fingers, then a slice of ham as thin as a wafer, with not too much fat, must be laid between, with a soupcon of mustard, or the prepared ham which comes in cans is excel lent for making sandwiches. Cheese sand- wiches, substituting a thin slice ot Amer ican fresh cheese for the ham, are delicious, and some rollicking good livers toast the cheese. Chicken can be eaten for itself alone, but it should be cut into very convenient frag ments, judiciously salted and wrapped in a very white napkin. The game or vealpis must be in a strontr earthen dish, and hav ing been baked the day before, its pieces will have amalgamated with the crust, and it will cut Into easily handled slices. Do not forget a dozen lemons and some sugar. Tongue, cold beef and even cold sausages make excellent varieties of sandwich. But to prevent their becoming the "sand which is under your feet" cover them over night with a damp napkin. Must Keep the Delicacies Separate. All must be packed in luncheon baskets with little twisted cornucopias holding pep per and salt, with hard-boiled eggs, with' the patty by itself, with croquettes, if they happen to be made, with cold fried oysters (excellent if ia batter and well drained after cooking), no one refreshment allowed to touch the other. If cake and pastry be taken they should each have a separate bas ket Emit also should be carefully packed by itself. Eor if food gets mixed and mussy even a mountain appetite will shun it A bottle of olives is a welcome addition, and pickles and other relishes may be included. Sardines are also in order. Now, wha to drink? Cold tea and iced coffee prepared the night before, the cream and sugar put in just before starting, should be always provided. They are capital things to climb" on, to "knit up the raveled sleeve of care," and, if somewhat exciting to the nerves, will be found the best thirst quench ers. These beverages should be carefully bottled, firmly corked (don't farget the corkscrew) and plenty of tin cups, or those strong glass beer mugs which you can throw across the room without breaking. Best Things In the Spirit line. Claret is the favorite wine for picnicers, as being light and refreshing, Ginger ale is excellent and cheap and compact. "Cham pagne," says "V?alter Besant in his novel, 'By Celias Arbor," is a wine as Catholic as the Alhausian creed, because it goes well with chicken and with the more elaborate pate de fois gras. Some men prefer sherry with their lunch, some take beer. If you have room and a plentiful cellar take all these things. But tea and coffee and ginger ale will do for anybody, anywhere. It has been suggested by those who have suffered losses from mischievous friends that a composite basket containing everything should be put in each 'carriage, but this is refining the matter. Arrived at the picnic ground, the whole force should be employed .by the hostess as an amiable body of waiters. The ladies should set the tables, the men bring water from the spring, and the less ceremony the better. It will go hard with the oldest picnicker if at this juncture he does not re lapse into poetry and say; The Proper Poetlo Sentiment "What good things these are, and how few know how to cultivate their senses. Wine such as this (here he drinks to the hostess, who looks very rosy and dishevelled after her Climb, but smiling),'the beauty of women to take us out of ourselves, such sandwiches, and allow me to pause over the game pie. an unqualified success (much en thusiasm) (hear hear), the view of yonder valley,this inspiriting air, these hard-boiled eggs (would there had been more salt!), these lovely Hebes and graceful Ganymedes coffee? Yes, more coffee, thanks. Captain, haveyou ever been in love?" The Captain responds gruffly, as if from the bridge: Never have been anything else. Then let ua drink what claret cup! my dears, this is too jnucli. Old as we are, for ladies' love unfit, Tlio pow er of beauty we remembor yet! Things "have not been served in order; they never are at a picnic, and the cunning hostess now produces some claret cup. She has made it herself since they reached the top of the mountain. Two bottles of claret to one of soda water, two lemons, a glass of sherry, a cucumber sliced in (to give it tho most perfect flavor), plenty of sugar and ice, ana where had she hidden that immense pitcher, a regular brown Toby, which she has brewed it in? "I know," said an "en fant terrible;" "I saw her hiding it under the back scat." Best for a Warm Afternoon. Well, there it is, filled,with the most re freshing drink of a warm afternoon, claret ran. Various vountr persons of opposite sexes who have been looking at each other more than at the gams pie, now prepare td disappear ia the neighboring patisj'uadw- pretense but feebly made of plucking black berries, artless dissemblers! Mamma shouts: "Mary, Carlone, Jane, Tom, Harry, be back before B, for we must start for home." May she get them even at half-past s&c ?rom a group of peasants ovir a bunch of sticks in the Black Forest upioaaueenwha delighted to picnic in Fontainbleaa these alfresco entertainments are ever delicious. We cannot put our ears too close to the con fessional of nature. In packing a lunch for a fisherman or a hunter the hostess often has to exclaim that brevity is the soul of wit She must often compress a few eatables into the side pocket and the bottle of claret into the fishing basket If not, she can palm off on the man one of those tin cases which poor little boys carrv to school and which look like books and have suggestive titles, like "Essays of .Bacon, "Urabbe s Tales or "jxews uram Turkey" on the back. If the fisherman will take one of these his sandwiches will arrive in better order. Pew Agree With Western Hunters. The "Western hunter takes a few beans and some slices of pork, some say, in his hat when he goes off on the warpath. But the modern hunter or fisher, if he drives to the meet or the burn, can be trusted with an orthodox lunch basket, which should hold cold tea, cold game pie, a few olives and a bit of cheese, and a large reserve of sandwiches. When we grow more celestial, when we achieve the physical theory of an other life, we may know how to concentrate good eating in a more portable form than that ofthe sandwich, but we do not know it yet. Now, take an egg sandwich hard-boiled eggs, chopped and laid between bread and butter. Can anything be more like the sonnet? Complete in 14 lines, and yet per fection! Only indefinite chicken, wheaten flour, the milk ofthe cow all that goes to make up our dallv food in one little com pact rectangle! tgg sandwicht It is im mense in us concentration. Some people like to take salads and apple pies to pic nics. There are great moral objections to thus exposing these two delicacies to the rough experiences of a picnic Objections to Salads and ries. A salad, how ever well dressed, is an oily and slippery enjoyment. Like all great joys it is apt to escape lis, especially in a lunch basket Apple pie, most delicate of pasties, will exude, and you are apt to find the crust on the top of the basket and the apple in the bottom ofthe carriage. But if yon will take salad and will not be taught by experience, make a perfect "Jar diniere" of all the cold vegetables, green peas, beans, and cauliflower, green peppers, cucumbers, and cold potatoes, and take this mixture dry to the picnic. Have your may onnaise in a bottle and dres3 the salad with it after sitting down (on a very slippery ferny rock) at the table. Truth compels the historian o observe, that this is delicious with the ham, and you will not mind in the least (until the next day) thf'large grease spot on the side breadth of voir gown. As for the apple pie, that is taken at the risk of the owner. It had better be left at home for tea. Some "Very Acceptable "Dainties. Of course pate de foie gras, sandwiches, boned turkey, jellied tongue the various cold birds as partridges, quails, pheasant, chicken and raw oysters can be taken to a very elaborate picnic near a large town. Salmon dressed with green sauce, lobster salad, every kind of salad, is in order if you can only get it there, and "Caviare to the general." Cold terrapin is not to .be de spised eaten on a bit of bread. It is an ex cellent dainty and so is the cold fried oyster. The publio picnics, like Sunday school picnics, fed with ice cream and strawberries, the. clam-bake, a uniaue and en.lovable affair by the sea, these are in the hands of experts ana neea no aesenpuon nere. xne Vrpneh neonle nienic everr dav in the Bois de Boulogne, the woods of Versailles, even on the asphalt, eating out-of-doors when they can. It is a very strange thing that we ao not improve our nne aiunaie oy eat ing our dinners and breakfasts with the full draught of an unrivalled ozone. M. EL W. Shebwood. PREPARATION OF CABBAGE. While Not a Very Nutritious Vegetable Itf a Good Thing to Te Somo of Elllco Serena's General Beclpes Hints for the Home. warms roa the pispatch. In his book on "Poods," Dr. Smith says the cabbage represents the least nutritious class of vegetable foods, and is perhaps less valuable for its direct nutritive elements than, for its indirect and medicinal saline virtues; but it is nevertheless a most agree able vegetable, and, from the variety of ways in which it may be prepared, whether raw or cooked, is considered a useful ad- iunct to the table by the housekeeper, whose 1st of vegetables would not be complete without cabbage. I append some recipes for its preparation: Boiled Cabbage. Take a young cabbage", remove the outer leaves, quarter, and soak in cold water, with a good handful of salt, for an hoar or two. Plunge Into rapidly boiling water, plenty of it, to which has been added a level saltspoon of bicarbonate of noda. Boil uncovered for 20 minutes without ceasing, drain well and serve with butter sauce. . Fried Cabbage Mince cold boiled cabbage flne.add a table spoonful of butter, seasoning and a little cream. Pnt Into a buttered frying-pan, stir until quite hot, and before removing from the Are allow it to brown slightly at tho bottom. Cold Slaw. Take a small head of cabbage; shaTOflne and sprinkle with salt. Put Into astewpan, cover with boiling-waterand set on thestove until tho dressing is made. Beat two eggs, with two tablespoonsful (level) of sugar, one of mustard, two of butter and a cupful of cream. Drain the cabbage, pour In the dressing and add one-half cupful of vinegar. Set to coot Following are some general recipes: Tomato Cream Sonp. Two large cups of tomato sauce, one quart hot water, one pint cream. Add a little but ter and flour, mixed together, to thicken, or two crackers rolled. Put one-half teaspoon fulofsoda In tomatoes before putting in cream. . . - Apple Souffle. Stew tho apples as for sauce, adding a little lemon Juice. Co cr the bottom and sides of the dish with the sauce onc-balf inch thick. Make a enstard of the yolks of two eggs to one pint of milk, add a little cinnamon and sugar, let the custard cool and then pour Into the dish. Beat the whites and spread over the top. 8et in an open oven for a few minutes to lightly brown. Orange Sponge Cake. To the beaten yolks of three eggs add ono Reasons Why Dr. Price's Delicious Flavoring Extracts of Lemon, Vanilla,etc., Are Superior to They are prepared from the choicest and purest materials. They contain no poisonous oils or ethers. They are highly concentrated. - y .- They are more economical as they require less to flavor. ' No delicacies are ever spoiled by thejr use. - They impart the trueflavor ofthe fruit from which they are macfe. NEW ADVEBTISEMESTS. I WE TAKE STOCK JULY 1. GREAT REDUCTION! During June. 'WnLTrinHe&D). -5tX "Wood St, my31-8u cupful sugar, one-fourth cnpfnl cold water, juice and rind of ono orange, one and one half teaspoonfuls baking powder, sifted with one heaping cupful pastry flour. Add the frothed whites of two eggs last, and bake SO minutes. Good Muffins. One pint sweet milk, butter less than tho size of an egg, three neaping teaspoonfuls baking powder, and flour enough to make & batter not too stiff. Peach Padding. Fill a pudding dish with peeled peaches, halved and stoned. Pour over them two cupfuls of water. Cover closely and bake until tender. Drain off the Juice and when cool add to It one pint sweet milk, four beaten eggs, a teacupful of flour with one teaspoonlul baking powder sifted in, one small enpful sogar, a pinch of salt and one tablespoonful melted butter. Beat Ave min utes, pour over the peaches and bake until brown, fiervo with cream. KIce Muffins. Beat three eggs until light and stir into a quart of sonr milk. Ad d one level teaspoon lul of salt, one teaspoonful of soda and suffi cient rice flour to make a stiff batter. Bake In well-greased muffin pans or rings. Macaroons. The whites of thrie eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, half a pound powdered sugar, half a pound desslcated cocoannt, half a pint rolled and sifted crackers, one teaspoonful extract of bitter almond. Drop on buttered paper and bake brown. Small Sponge Cake. One teacup powdered sugar, one of flour, three eggs, half teaspoon cream tartar, quarter teaspoon soda. Very Fine Currant Jelly. Take equal quantities of white and red currants, tree from stems, leaves and dirt. Put in jporcelain kettle with very little water. Boil 20 minutes, but do not crush the fruit .Strain through a flannel bagwith ont squeezing. Add one pound of loaf sogar to each pint of juice and boil 23 nrfaotes Strain intoglasses. Wheat or Corn 3Inmns Mix Into one quart of wheat flour, oT one Sint of cornmeal, two well-beaten eggs, a ttle salt, and enough rich, sweet milk to make a thick batter. Adda teaspoonful of baking powder, beat well and b.uce in but tered gem pans in a brisk oven. When dona cover for a few minutes with a cloth. Apple Cream. Pare and. slice six fine apples. Steam or stew them in very little water until soft Add four tablespoonfuls of white sugar and the whites of four eggs. Beat until light, and place in fruit dish surrounded with cream. Costards. The usual rule for baked enstard Is four eggs to a quart of milk, a saltspoon of salt and a cap of sugar. Bako in a moderate oven until Arm in the center. Apple Tapioca Pudding. Peel and core eight tart apples. Pill with, sugar, and add to each a little grated nut meg. Place in a buttered baking dish. Pour around tho apples a cupful of tapioca soaked over night and then mixed with a little milk. Bake in a slow oven for one hour. Serve with cream and powdered sugar. Molasses Sponge Cake. To ono cupful of molasses add a well beaten egg, one teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a half cupful of w nter, two tablespoonfuls of melted butter and two cupfuls of sifted flour. .Bake in shallow tins. Here are some frugal dishe3: Utilizing Cold Beef. Mince pieces of cold roast beef very fine. Stir into a batter of milk, flour and one egg. Frybrowninhotfat and season with salt, pepper and a little parsley. Ulnced Codfish. Flake cold boiled cod and to three cupfuls of flsh add one large mashed potato, a small piece of butter, one-half teaspoonful of com starch and a beaten egg. Make into cakes and fry brown. Bread Fritters. Cut stale bread In slices, remove crust, shape in rounds, dip in egg batter one egg to a cup of milk and fry brown. Hints for the Housekeeper. Iw selecting salt mackerel, examine them carefully. If rusty In appearance reject them. In "trying out" or clarifying bntter It is doneVrhen tho froth begins to rise. Skim, strain, store in a cool place and keep well covered. The sauce par excellence for broils is mushroom kotchnp; and the garnish crisp lettuce, watercress or endive. The water drained from macaroni, cab bage or any vegetable, simmered with the bones from roast beef, a little boiled rice, a bit of onion and thickening of flour makes a good, palatable soup. New tins should be set over the Are, filled with water, for some hours before using them. ' Bread that is to be kept for a week should be kneaded longer than that to be eaten soon. The marrow In bones should be scraped out and nsed for cooking. It is more deli cate for this purpose than suet. BtrrrxR for cooking should always bo clari fied. Mcstabd for instant uses should be mixed -arith tniiv to which a little thin cream should be added. Cn.v loafs witiM lnn 1 Tftnartlft hv thft QVAt .J M.tW .WUQU - ..W.-Q..- J . quantity, cut in squares and kept In a dry place to harden. Eixice Szbxsa. All Others. - s K I - m.
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers