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PAEIS TYPES OF BEAUTY.
Two Ttepresentallves of Tin do Siecle Femi
ninity as Seen in the Gay TTcnch Capital
Hair Tliat Almost Startles How raris
ian Women Kcallj Dress.
rCOKKESrOSBZCE OF THE DISPATCH.
Pjuiis, May 22. In every decade there is
a peculiar style of feminine physical charm
which takes the ascend
ant All the women,
more or less, try to copy
it; all the men succumb
to its fascination. It is
as well-defined a fashion
as long gowns or short
gowiis, high hats or low
hats.
At present, in Paris,
4
wMv-'f'te) femininity designated un-
7f llJllfdl er tne term fin de siecle.
VjWfff At the salon of the
S Champs de Mars there is
lg. l. a certain portrait, around
which there cluster groups of interested
spectators. Tot all admire, hut none pass
hy indifferently. The lady stands upright
in sharp relief against a dark background,
garbed in simple white, whose flat draperies
are confined about the waist by two narrow,
pale, pink ribbons. A very lone, white
neck; ohoulders and bust, thin to thinness,
though without suspicion of bones; arms
slender and bare; the face turned away in
direct piofile; the tinting of the whole skin
all one equal, even, luminous, pinkish
white Hair That Discounts Xature.
Taken back absolutely straight from fore
head so high and wide that it resembles a
marble tablet, rf-
are undulated erY? 'J:a
extraordinary L JTSS
shadcof red
hair; hair that
nature never
made of that
precie tint,
since it has ab
solutely car
mine touches
under the
brown, but
hair neverthe
less so startling
and so super
artistic, that it
seems sacrilege
to suegest the
idea ot dye in
c o nnect ion
with it. Be
neath the tab
let-like fore
head
eyebrows hat
look like a pen
cu line; eyes
small and long,
with a little
smile in them;
a Ion? sharp
Fig.
noe exceedingly delicate of contour; a
slender-lipped mouth, alo smiling enig
matically at the corners. This keen profile
stands out more distinctly by virtue of the
protuberance of carmine hair rolled up in
fin de siecle antiquitv above the nape of
the neck. Incontestably striking, though
no longer young, (with the iery first
youth), the original of the portrait was
present at the opening ofthe salon, sur
rounded by a little court of men, followed
thiongh the crowd by long, curious glances.
This well-known person is one of the fin
de siecle beauties. In another roomr at the
Champs de 3Iars behold the portrait of that
essence of all Parisian modernity, Toattc
Guilbert. An impressionist panel, long
and narrow, against which the very chic
singer of concert-hall naughty songs (now
sought after also in all the most aristocratic
drawing rooms of Paris, whose guests she
entertains), stands out with a pervorsely
comic suggestion of an olden-time saint in. a
missaL
Details or a Second Type.
She wears a gown of some flowered satin,
with greenish tones upon which there
strikes a yel
low reflection
as of footlights.
These blended
hues haie dyed
off, in the prop
er impression
ist faiion, on
her slim arms,
gloved with
black above
the elbow. As
tonishiuglv de
collete thebod
ice; but modest
theefiect. iNot
a fragment of
lace, not an
Yinch of tulle,
not a flower.
not a ribbon to
break the
harshness of
that figured
iinpressi o n i s t
robe against
the skin. In
short, not a be
coming toilet;
and of a sim
plicity of lines
so very ingen
uous that it
could only be
the outcome 'of
artful study.
And finally the
face: 2arrou
e v e d, narrow-
lipped again, with the chin tilted on one
side in that attitude which, corresponding
with the crossed hands in front, has become
familiar to all Paris as the diva's character
istic one. Of course, the ejes and lips
smile that quite indefinable smile that you
must not try to dissect, but must take for
granted as the very triplv-distilled extract
of the fin de siecle perfume. And, once
more, the hair drawn up from the entabla
ture of a squari" lorehc.id, culminating in a
pyramidal knot on top; the extreme de-
Ice of coquury hi- reason, exactly, of its
entire repudiation of anything flattering.
Before this portrait also the crowd pauses,
smiles, feels itself particularly in Paris,
conscious of suggestions in the atmosphere
it could never get elsewhere.
These are two good examples of fin de
siecle feminiuity. It is like caviar. You
have to become accustomed to it in order to
like it. It is a taste that has to be acquired.
American Women Get tlio Best.
Nothing you will see could be. farther
from the conventional ideal of style than
such a tj peas this. Perhaps when one is on
a scent one is inclined to carry it a little too
far; but it certainly seems that this same
conventional style or stylishness, has neith
er the vogue, nor the votaries, nor the per
fection in Paris that it once had. The sup
plyers are just as good, but the best they
iave to give nowjigoes on the back of
xi
d i nvATwa
- I. I MA aoil IfV'KCT V.tViil
.' KI
Utt "IIP
EV-4?y MS
fiuiwy A
pi
jll
I III1 '''l l
J77. S.
ram
DHAK5
If
ifS"
American women. "We do not originate so
many pretty things in America; but my
word, we w e a r . -
tliim hpttprl Some Xims..
cnange naa pusseu
over the Paris
ennc; whether it
be the fin de siecle
influence, or what
not. she no longer
looks quite s o
much like a trim
yacht under full
sail as she used.
And to speak
frankly, Idon't
think she cares to
look so any longer
to the same extent,
having perhaps an
other more ague
and less precise
5i1e.il. As thin us
nw cf nnd her flnr- ?
vtnrvo fll-flGS 1C TA1". .
haps her best ef
fort. She certain
lv looks attract!
i ive just now driv
ing out totneiiois
under the bloom
of the chestnuts.
Besides she knows
how to sit back in
the corner of a
Victoria with an
air of which we
Ampnoflns as vet
have not attained. Figure 4- ;
Another thing she does to perfection:
She guards the careful outlines of her figure.
The corset-maker has the position of a
priestess. Every little provincial who comes
up to Paris has her corset made to order and
pajs her S10 or 512 for it, though for the
A -l.n . .. 1.... n.i.1 f T. rn nlkttlAB TMO
I rcM tuc way uuy uiuab ui uci uuium .v .
. Louvre. The corset made to order is not a
luxury; it is a necessity m her eyes,
A Very Commendable Trait.
Iet ns say the same of the daintiness, the
extraordiny fantasy, expended upon what
dim nulla Tiai noc.
sous. After all, a
plain gown, worn
overa bewildering
rustle of silken
skirt, and white
garment through
which colored rib
bons run amid
falls of lace, is a
very fine research
for coquetry. It Is
not an upstart's
standard at alL
In the wild and
woolly "West we
should be inclined
to reverse that or
der fine clothes
audunfine under
clothes.
Now, if you
want a few partic
ular details:
"Worth and his
clan are making
that i s,
skirts that flare
out around the
feet and abjure
the tie-back. You
i look drawn-in by
vonr skirt in front.
The newest hat is
a little round of
straw, indented
Figure S.
regularly all about like a cake that has
come out of a mould. It is set squarely on
4nA n nFihr linafl null a little loose bimch
of very fine flowers thrown on top of it with
stiff aigrettes of velvet ribbon. The newest
shoe is out of all measure, long and pointed
as a toothpick. The Louis XV. coat flares
back over the most spring-like of vests,
which are of erepe and lace, even for the
street Finally, the little Henri IV. cape
is, in its latest evolution, of crepe de shine,
plaited over the shoulders into an innumer
able quantity of accordeon plaits.
A. O.
WOMAN'S WOULD ILUJSTBATIOHS.
Something About the Style. That May As
sist Home Dressmakers.
The hat shown in Fig. 1 is the latest
thing from London. It will be much worn
this summer with tailor-made suits. It is
called at wiU tht "Tyrol," "Canoe" or
"Brighton," the first name being the most
appropriate, as it is a simple little affair of
rough straw with rolling brim and the crown
dented in. It is very muc'i the same thing
as what is calledan English walkinghat.-with
modifications. It is trimmed with a pair of
high ears, or wings, on the side. It will be
found an excellent hat for knocking about
and for common use.
The second illustration shows a design
from Paris that is represented as very pop
ular. A lavender and white tennis gown is
shown in Fig 3. It is of the English
homespun that is now woven as light as
lawn. The belted bodice is a familiar
shape, with wide pointed collar and belt of
plain wool, piped on the edge with white
wool. Full sleeves droop on full cuffs of
lavender wool. The skirt, with slight
'movement" in front, has panels of laven
der on each side. A hat of the plain laven
der wool is trimmed with loops of white
ribbon.
A seaside toilet is shown in Fig. 4. The
picture, which is from Harper's Bazar, tells
its own story. It is very simple, fashioned
exquisitely by Worth from soft fine wool of
the pale tint of Persian lilacs. The rich
camail, or bishop's mantle, by the same ar
tistic designer, is of cream-colored molleton,
a soft flannel-like cloth. It is studded with
jet cabochons, and has a yoke of jetted pas
sementerie, with rain fringe of jet and a
flaring collar finished with a lace rutt Gal
loon of jet borders the garment The hat,
from the Maison Virot, is of transparent
black horse-hair popularly known here as
Neapolitan braid. Curled black ostrich
tips surround the crown. Eose-colored rib
bon is added in erect wired loops at the
back, and long streamers hanging down to
the waist A parasol of white chiffon mous
scline completes the toilet.
Light green embroidered drap d'ete is the
material of the costume Fig. S. It is made
with a draped bodice connected by an em
broidered belt to the skirt, which is em
broidered at the front Accompanying it is
a long sleeveless paletot, with border of em
broidery and flounces of black lace.
LANTERNS FOB DEC0BATI0NS,
They Do Not Shed Mnch Light, but It Is
Subdued and BeantUoL
Perhaps no article is of greater value for
decorative purposes than the lantern, and
these are so varied in design that something
different may be had for each room. The
most expensive are those made of iron and
brass. They hang from the ceiling, the
light dim Veligious, always from lanterns
glimmering through the holes and cracks
made by the carvings and designs. The
gauze lanterns with lacquered rBM r
31 fA J
waiv r-'
mMI
THE
less expensive, and bein in four different
sizes are acceptable for lighting purposes in
four separate rooms.
While no vast amount of light is given
from lanterns, they take away from the
complete darkness of a room, and the effect
of the coloring is desirable. There are even
lanterns of silfc paper: These are suitable
for the corners of rooms and the piazza.
Lanterns of teak woo'd for halls are six
sided, and may be arranged for oil, gas or
candle.
SnTNEBS FOB A WKiX
Slenus for the Couple That Gets on With a
Thousand a Tear.
The following dainty dinner menu for a
week is furnished the New York World by
one interested in young couples whose in
come is $1,000 a year or so. The dinners are
for a gentleman, his wife, a child of say 5
years, and one servant The portion of the
income left for clothing is not guaranteed,
but it is suggested that no matter how lim
ited the means of the parents of the bride
who is to live on ?1,000 a year, she generally
leaves her father's house with a trousseau
that "with a little making over will last for
years. Here is the menu:
SUNDAY.
Omelette souffle $ 15
4K lb. roasting
chicken Miblet
Total t 77
grary) $ 90
M peck spinach 13
Masned notitoes OS
NOTE. Enough will be
left of the lamb to serve
for breakfast, thus pay
ing for seasoning, oil,
vlncear. etc.. used at the
Celery .' 10
Icecream 4j
Graham wafers 5
dinners.
TnunSDAY.
Total tlCS
Nora. A 5-eent soup-
Shoulder veal C3
Sweet potatoes 7
btewed celery, with
drawn butter 15
Custard pudding IS
Done, wmi nair can to
matoes, will last three
umci.
MONDAT.
Chicken left from Sun
dar. minced on toast.
Total 8103
Only half will be eaten
and the rest put by for a
veal pie for Saturday's
dinner.
FRIDAY.
Soup (3d time) 4
Scalloped oysters.... 33
Lettuce 5
Mashed potatoes S
Half can com 8
Lemon pie 2)
with gravy made from;
the bones,
Potatoes, mashed... .f S
V, can tomatoes 7
Lettuce 5
Boiled Uk pudding... 15
Total I
TUESDAY.
Soup f
IK sirloin steak
Slashed potatoes
Carrots with drawn
Total 77
SATURDAY
Veal pie I 10
Mashed potatoes 5
Onions, with drawn
butter 10
Lemon Jelly :.. 15
Total t 40
Total for week (5 61
butter 10
Cut up oranges 10
Total S
WEDNESDAY.
Soup $
Small shoulder yea-
line lamb
Mashed potatoes
Lettuce...-.
FANS FOB THE SEASON.
Pretty Designs That Most Correspond With
the Costuroe Worn.
The summer gown is not complete with
out a fan which blends with it, says the
New York Times. A pretty fan, to be car
ried with a black net dress, is one made of
black gauze on which the fleur de lys is
painted. Th'e sticks are of black sheik An
other pretty black gaiiza fan has Bilver
sticks, and embroidered all over the fan in
silver threads are hugebutterflies, silver
tinsel being used for their wings.
One fan is made of white silk, with black
point lace butterflies upon it The sticks
are of mother of pearl, and here and there
upon them is a tiny butterfly done in black
enamel. A fan which blends well with a
"violet gown is of green gauze. Painted over
the lower part are violets, peeping out from
beneath green leaves. This fan ismot very
larje, and does not close. The handle is of
gold, with a bunch of five purple enamel
violets with diamond centers for its top.
Many of the fans to be used this summer
are covered with jeweled bugs. Fans made
of dark shades of silk will have upon them
strange-looking beetles with jeweled wings.
A very dainty fan is half of shirred crepe
lisse. Where the shirring ends is indicated
by a fine silver thread. The upper part of
the fan is whito silk,with pink clover and
its green leaves painted upon it. The
stems can be seen through the shirring, and
the clover looks as if it was just lifting up
its head to peep out at the world from the
shirred crepe. The handle is silver. A fan
made of yellow marabout feathers has sticks
of shell. In one can be seen the face of a
tiny gold watch. White ostrich feather
fans, with pearl handles and the owner's
initials formed of her favorite gem, some
where on the handle, are in vogue.
AH ICE EASILY MADE.
How to Make a Cafe Mousse That WIU Be
Delightful In Hot Weather.
A "cafe mousse" Is one of .the best ices
we have, and one of the easiest to make,
says the New York Trxbwne. Grind fine half
a cup of coffee, and .put it in a thin muslin
bag. Pour very slowly over the coffee a
cup of boiling water, let it drip through,
and then pour the coffee over a second time,
making a fine Mocha essence. JSeat the
yolks of two eggs together with hnlf a cup
of sugar, add the coffee and stir the mixture
over the fire for three minutes, being care
ful that the eggs do not curdle. Eemove
the custard from the fire and let it cool,
beating it some, and then mix it carefully
with' two quarts of dry whipped cream,
measured after whipping. Put the mixture
in the can of an ice cream freezer, after re
moving the beater. Cover the can, cork up
the aperture where the beater goes in,
and pack the can in ice and salt, be
ing careful to use twice as much salt
in the packing as will be needed to freeze
an ice cream. A gallon mould requires
about three pints of salt to pack a mousse
properly. After packing, set the freezer
containing the mousse away for at least six
hours, to become perfect A mousse should
have a mossy texture; therefore it should
not be stirred while it is freezing.
The French chefs make their cafe mousses
out of whipped cream alone, flavored with
three tablespoonfuls of coffee essence to the
Suart, and sweetened. Their coffee essence
icy maife by pouring a cup and a half of
cold water over three ounces of ground
Mocha coffee and reducing the mixture by
boiling to three teaspoonfuls. This essence
is then strained through a cloth and used at
once.
TEE PE0PEE THING IK SHOES.
Comfort and Beauty In the Pointed Picca
dilly to Be Worn Tills Season.
There is no doubt that the pointed Pic
cadilly shoe has come to abide for a season
at least All the newest low shoes are made
with this toe and a low vamp. Unless the
point ofthe toe is exaggerated, so that it is
extreme, it is not uncomfortable, and forms,
with the low heel, as becoming and at the
same time as sensible a shoe as any one
needs to wear. While upon this subject
one may ask: Did you eversonsult a thor
oughlyintelligent phvsioianor anyone who
makes a specialty of treating corns and
trivial affections of the feet, as to the advis
ability of adopting any of the eccentrically
shaped shoes in the market? In all cases
experts will tell you to adopt a comfortable,
well-fitting shoe that holds the foot firmly
together, .and not one.loose enough to allow
your foot to move about in it and make cal
lous places by friction.
There is far more danger of creating corns
with too loose a shoe than with one too tight;
though, of course, a tight shoe may draw
the bones of the feet out of place, and, as a
matter of fact, there are very few feet that
are beautiful because the bone of the great
toe joint is usually drawn out of place
enough to break the straight line of grace
on that side of the foot. Abundant bathing,
the daily use of the foot-bath and friction
towel, and frequent changes ofthe stockings
and shoes will acromplish wonders for af
flicted feet Low shoes are far better for
them than high shoes, because they give
more freedom. Some women, however, have
trouble with their ankles swelling when
when they wear low shoes, but this is due
largely to the want of exercise. It is a sort
of dropsical affliction caused by a debilitated
condition of the system.
A Novelty In Dollies.
A novel idea for a set of doilies is to have
aHower and an appropriate motto for each
month. The old poets Spenser and Chau
cer furnish many mottoes, and one may
with very little trouble sketch in the de
sired flower much store satisfactorily than
Ifitamptd,
PITTSBURG DISPATCH,
GETTING OVER GBIP.
Shirley Dare Says If s Best to Take
Things Easy for a While.
POINTS CONCERNING COMPLEXION.
Glycerine Taken Internally and the Merita
of Salicylic Acid.
HQT BATHS BEST TAKEN AT NIGHT
-
V
WBirraJT TOB THE DISPATCH,
FTER prostrating
illness nothing is
more resting than
to rest and let nice
folk do all the talk
ing. "When not up
to the mark qf
study or gardening
itispleasanttotake
the train less than
an hour's ride to the factory, where one is
permitted to lounge unmolesting and unmo
lested in its dainty precincts.
It sounds odd to sp'eak of dainty work
shops, yet not a few of these New England
manufactories not cotton mills or foundries
vie with private houses in the fresh clean
liness demanded by their work and in their
setting of shorn'turf and vine hung walls.
The fresh, unpainted woodwork is sweet as
ceiling of cedar, the outlook is a shallow
valley, with an old road outlined by elms
and blue hills for distance; nearer the glad
sparkle of waters in the spring sun. One
broad southern window seat I specially
like when the sun is off, for it looks down
into a little nook of cedars and birches that
crowd to the edge of the enclosure, while
on the other hand the head of the concern
has its work table, ranged with still, filters
and boilers bright with nickel and brass, fit
for a parlor table.
A Tory Paradise of Odors.
Along the wall are ranged queer bottles,
cans of perfumery extracts and pomades of
price. It is grateful to uncork these vials
and breathe spirit of Cannes violets, tube
roses, jasmine, cassie; lemon verbena and
the stronger oils which form bases of rich
and tantalizing odors. There is a mountain
of origanum and thyme, lavender from
Provence and stimulating mountain herbs
from the Grand Chartreuse, pungent and
pleasing, with the lighter essences of flowers
from redolent bouquets, of Marchale and
Ia Seine, des Indes, des Alpes and a dozen
other titles of elegance.
They have a newpharmaeien at the works,
the proprietor breaking down last March be
tween la grippe and the struggle to carry on
business and make up for the deficiencies of
ordinary employes. How many men I have
seen try to do the same thing in other work,
pervading every department, with their own
ability making up for the deficiencies of a
score of half-rate people, finally to discover
they were not gods, but men, and only one
man at that How many business enterprises
this wretched grip has upsetl
What a Missing 3Ian Accounts For.
Old establishments where everything used
to go like clockwork got sadly out of joint
in all departments, orders not attended to,
goods sent on approval uncalled for, ac
counts muddled, all arrangements unsatisfac
tory, and when the difference forced itself
uuon one it was discovered that one auiet.
decided man who used to be seen about the
great house at times was missed and lay
battling with undermining disease. His
oversight, his will, his clear judicial sense
had kept that great business together, and
wnen nis acuvny was expenaea mere was
no more soul or unity in the affairs of the
great house.
A good business man deserves as much
credit as any other genius, and how much
he is worth can only be told when it is a
question of finding some one to fill his
place. One after another well recommended
person is tried, only io be discarded for
blunders. Men do well enough under an
efficient head who go to pieces the moment
they are left to their own direction. The
spring has seen much of this demoralization
of business, though care is taken to say
little about it
Tho Man With Original Ideas.
My friend is refurnishing her house this
season. The orders were ready, it was sup
posed, seven weeks ago, but first one fore
man was sick and then another, and lastly
tho head of the department went down and
nothing is right The carpet went the
wrong way, the curtains did not match, the
iurnituie was bright finish when a dull ono
had been ordered, and nothing could be set
right till that poor man got off his sick bed
to attend to it All his hands seemed
stricken with imbecility. They could go
right with a sharp eye on every half day's
work, but originate or comprehend an orig
inal idea or correct a mistake they could
not. And the lingering of that dreadful
disease baffles all calculation.
The man with the care of a large business
upon him was sure he would be down at the
office "the first of next week," and the
Saturday came and he had not gained enough
to leave his own house. He felt as if he
certainly should be out of doors when a
sunny day came, but it found him too weak
to get out of bed. That is the way of this
heathen disorder. You only want to lie
abed warmly .and doze all day. Conver
sation exhausts you. a grasshopper of care
weighs down your shoulders.
Worse Than a Itallroad Accident.
It is too much struggle to get one's wants
properly attended to; you want what you
want without muoh speaking; above all you
want your three or four delicate nourishing
meals a day, and if you Jon't get them to a
minute collanse ensues. Yon want to sleen
with the dusk, and it is cruelty when friends-
Keep you awage one minute longer, lor a
half hour's chat then may cost sleep for
most of the night. You need gentle care
and tender letting alone, and this state of
infant weakness lasts weeks and month.
during w"hich you must move at the same T
careful rate. It is hard that sunerers can
not exact damages from the city or the
house whose Hegligcn.ce deprives them of so
much vitality. A railway accident is no
harder to bear, no more destructive or de
pressing. As I was saying, they have a new phar
macien at the works. The dark, serious
face of the owner is sadly missing, but the
new man is interesting, with a keen, sharp
glitter about him in his sharp black eyes,
crisp, shining hair and quick hands, which
show a dash of French blood. He is not
speculative or original, but what he. knows
he knows, and his certificate of pharmacy,
which hangs on the wall, is well deserved!
A good pharmacien has to know a good deal
of many(sciences of mathematics to calcu
late analysis; of chemistry, to understand
the relation of substances of botany and
minerals, besides nice manipulations.
A Man Worth While Watching;.
A careless or stupid boy has no right to
attempt the art Pierre, which I call him
because it isn't his name or anything like it,
is brisk, knowing, decided, and if others do
not know their part they are apt to learn
from him. I like to lounge in the window
seat and watch him as he dives first at one
thing, then at another, over his enamelled
pans and-fine porcelain fireproof dishes, his
stills and digesters and filters and fine sieves
of silk. It doesn't put him out to be
watched, for all his mind is intent on the
work in hand, but he has always space for a
cheery word or a humorous chat between
times. A person who knows something out
of the common and knows how to tell it is
the best of companions, especially when he
is kind enough to do all the talking.
He is great on cosmetics, powders and,
paints and dyes, which are frowned upon in
the establishment. He is also knowing in
the latter science of the toilet, having
studied with a fine physician for skiu dis
eases. He doesn't believe in facial mas--sage,
at least not in overdoing it, and is
thoroughly put out as he speaks of a letter
from a woman who used his preparation and
gave it to ner mentis, wao au rupoea tnetr
ttcuwjtb U sor ten
Cffi?
uauiw, ja conse. i
SUNDAY, MAT 31,'
quence two or three had a woful breaking
out on the skin. "If they had rubbed their
faces so without anything most 'of them
would break out. It is a wonder they did
not take the Bkin off in the process."
' Better let the Trouble Come Out
In spring especially they must be careful
of these forcible methods, for the blood is ir
ritable, and ten minutes', rubbing of any'
part is enough to bring on rash or eczema,
even with the mildest cold cream or if noth
ing at all is used. Nature throws the blood
to the surface, and the skin only wants ithe
slightest excuse to breakout in different'
ways. Eat watercress or pungent salads
like mustard freely, and the first effect very
likely will be a cold sore; but better out
thad in.
Very much better. Cases are not infre
quent where chronic inflammation of the
stomach is greatly relieved by a rash on the
skin. I recall a beautiful society woman
afflicted with some digestive trouble from
which she was never free except when a
brilliant rash spread over her face. Then
she felt entirely well, but when her face re
sumed its clearness and delicacy the in
ternal irritation began. Her friends knew
she was feeling her best and wittiest when
her beauty was gone. Especially such sub
stances as eggs or fish not particularly
fresh, or meats or stews kept too long un
ventilated, though no change will be de
tected by ordinary sense?, will irritate the
digestive tract and leave traces on the skin
which a little over-friction will render re
pulsive. Glycerluo Taken Internally.
It is a privilege to talk over some of the
inquiries I get worn women with this clear
headed specialist. I recalled a late inquiry
about the value of one of the fancy glycer
ines as a cosmetic "They are much the
same thing,1' wa3 the ans.ver. "Starch or
tragacanth dissolved in glycerine, with per
haps a trifle of alcohol, and heated in a
water bath till it is like jelly. It is a
starch or gum made with glycerine instead
of water. Women had better take their
glycerine internally if they can find it pure
enough. Frenchpnysicians give it in some
forms of skin disease( especially in acne
and boils, beginning with four teaspoonfuls.
a day. Thick secretions grow liquid and
the irritation of the skin is greatly relieved.
The skin is more active in throwing off old
matter and forming fresh. You know
glycerine is used in many medicines, nota
bly in the famous rock "and rye for con
sumption. "The only difficulty is in getting pufe
glycerine to take. I should use only vege
table glycerine, which is purified from olive
and cottonseed oils, and less likely to have
the bitter and dangerous principle of im
pure animal glycerines."
A girl writes to know what sort of sali
cylic acid is sold at 10 cents an ounce, as
her doctor tells her that salicylic acid for
medical use is not less than 80 cents an
ounce.
Facts About Salicylic Acid.
Doctors and apothecaries like to bewil
der people. There is salicylic acid sold as
high as tl 20 an ounce, derived from spireas
and wintergreen yielding small percentage
of the acid, and it is also derived from car
bolic acid and so cheaply that it sells at re
tail at 10 cents an ounce, in quality perfect
ly safe for external use on corns, etc., and
it is ofter. dispensed for internal prescrip
tions. This acid, used externally, has a marked
effect on fungous and morbid growths on the
skin like moles, yellow freckles and moth
Eatches. Use a 10 per cent solution in alco
ol, and sponge the spots or moles often as
possible every hour, if one can think of it
letting the acid dry on the skin. I can't
say it is a specific, but it comes nearest to it
of any drug known. For internal use, in
dyspepsia or rheumatism, a tea of winter
green leaves or black birch is preferable,
from four to eidht tablespoonfuls of astron?
decoction being taken at each dose, three or
four times a day. Meadow sweet, spirea
ulmaria also contain salicylic acid, or the
salicyl aldehyde, which by oxidizing be
comes the acid. The aldehyde is the safer
agent of the two.
An Aid to the Complexion.
An infusion of meadow sweet flowers
drank freely improves the complexion and
clears the blood of scrofulous taint The
rule for making infusions is ten times as
much boiling water as ofthe herb poured on
the latter in a tight closed jar, boiled two
or three minutes, then allowed to stand
where it will keep hot for two hours. Pour
to eight tablespoonfuls is a dose, which may
be taken three to six timc3 a day.
White willow is an old remedy in fevers,
long used in Europe and still largely pre
scribed by the bakims or doctors of India
and Afghanistan. The juice of the fresh
willow leaves largely diluted is preferred to
quinine for intermittent fevers, as it has
less irritating effect The sap ofthe willow
gathered by slitting the bark when the tree
is in flower is an old cosmetic and good to
cure redness of eyes and dim sight.
Thegreatest use for salicylic acid, how
ever, is in preventing smallpox. Dr. Bryce,
ofthe Southern Clinic, Dr. Claridge and Dr.
De Caibbol testify to its good effect, and
Dr. Bryce says: "I believe that given
early and fteely the acid will place
smallpox in the list with measles, chicken
pox and other trifling diseases."
Another question put to me is: "Is it
best to bathe the face, as advised, in very
hot water and then in very cold?"
I should say not. This hardening -off of
the face suddenly is likely to cause paraly
sis and that droop of the muscles at the
corners of the chin which make a face so old
and weak. The face is full of delicate
nerves and blood vessels, and the cooling
after steaming it or washing in hot water
should be very gradual. Bathe the face in
tepid water and dry carefully on a warm,
soft towel and let it alone, especially being
careful not to go out for an hour afterward.
The Best Time for Hot Baths.
Immense harm is done by taking vapor
baths and going out in spring winds when
the system is heated and perspiring. Pro
prietors of bath houses should refuse to give
baths which will not allow at least an hour's
rest before persons leave the building. The
consequences of neglect on this point are
that vapor and hot Daths generally will lose
their repute from the injury of going out too
soon after taking them'.' Persons who bathe
are not aware ot the risk, and it is the pro
prietor's place to inform them. Hot baths
and face baths are best taken at home and
at night, so that a night's sleep may temper
the system afterward.
If you want to produce good effect on the
skin steamlt at night, wipe dry and powder
it with fine sulphur, dusted on with a pow
der puff. Sleep with this on, wash off in
the morning and rub in a very little of this
delicious cerate, lightly rubbing most along
the lines of the face. A bit the size of a
large pea is quite enough, and one minute's
rubbing by the clock is all the time that
ought to be spent on the soft fabric of the
skin. Don't rnb it in, but rub it out to
spread it over the face. This will prevent
the natural moisture from drying with wind
and heat. After an hour or two wash the
face if necessary, only don't rub-off all the
film which protects the skin and merely
supplies the place of the natural sterine
which prevents evaporation from the pores.
Over a month since, in referring to the
depilatory effects of a well known prescrip
tion, whose virtues are .constantly attested
by ladies who write me, a misprint dividing
the sentence quite reversed its meaning.
Those who have called the writer to account
for self-contradiction will accept this late
explanation. Shirley Daee.
CANNING SWEET CHEEEIES.
They Are One ot the Best of Fruits for
Preserving for Future Use.
Housekeepers should be reminded that the
sweetv cherry is one of the best fruits wo
have for canning. Its flavor is insipid when
preserved in sugar in the old-fashioned way.
The sour Morella cherry, however, makes a
delicious preserve.
Tho distinction between a canned and pre
served fruit should always be observed. A
A canned fruit is cooked in tho jar it is put
up in, in a light syrup, and sealed up boil
ing hot; a preserved fruitis cooked in a pre
serving kettle in a heavy syrup and is then
put in jars, and is often cooled before it is
sealed up.
Household goods packed, and stored,
su HAVOE & Kektait, 33 Water rt,
189L
MANAGING A, PICNIC.'
Mrs. Sherwood's Directions for a
Pleasant Day in the Woods.
CONTENTS OP THE BIG BASKETS.
A Delicious Sandwich and a Prink Fit for
Sweltering Gods.
POETBT THAT GOES "WITH AN' OUTING
WaiTTKNTOBraB DIBPAICH.31
Come hither, come hither, the broom was In
blossom all over yon rise;
There went a wild murmur of Drown bees
about it witli songs from the wood.
Wo shall never he younger, O lovel let ns
forth, for the world neath our eyes
Aye! the world is made young, e'en as we,
and right fair Is her youth, and right
good.
Appetites flourish in the free air of hills
and meadows, and after drinking in the
ozone of the sea one feels like drinking
something else. There is a very good story
of a reverend bishop, who, with a friend,
went afishing, like Peter, and, being very
thirsty, he essayed to drawthe cork of a
claret bottle; but in his zeal he struck his
bottle against a stone, and the claret oozed
out to refresh the thirsty earth instead of
that precious porcelain of human clay of
which the bishop was made.
His remark was, to his friend: "James,
you are a layman; why don't yon say some
thing?" '
,Now, to avoid having our layman or our
reverend wish to "say something," let us'try
to suggest what they should eat and what
they should drink.
TheBest Kind of a Picnic.
There are many kinds of picnics. Eash
ionable vones at Newport and other watering
places, where the French waiters of the
period are told to get up a repast as if at
the Casino, and there are clambakes which
are ideal; there are picnics at Lenox and at
Sharon where the hotel keeper will help to
fill the baskets. But the real picnic which
calls for talent and executive ability should
emanate from some country house where
two or three other country houses shall co
operate and help. Then what jolly drives
in the brake, what queer old family horses
and antedeluvian wagons, what noble dog
carts and what prim pony phaetons can join
in the procession.
It should be a fine day, and the place se
lected a hillside with trees commanding a
fine view, that at least is recommended.
The necessity of a short walk, a short
scramble after leaving the horses, should
not be disregarded. The night before the
picnic, which presumably starts early, the
lady of the house should see to it that a
boiled ham of perfect flavor is in readiness,
and she may flank it with a boiled tongue,
four roasted chickens, a game pie, and any
amount of stale bread to cut into sand
wiches. The Secret of tho Sandwich.
Now a sandwich can be at once the best
and the worst thing in the world, but to
make it the best the bread should be cut
very thin, the butter, which must be as
fresh as a cow's lip, should be spread with
deft fingers, then a slice of ham as thin as a
wafer, with not too much fat, must be laid
between, with a soupcon of mustard, or the
prepared ham which comes in cans is excel
lent for making sandwiches. Cheese sand-
wiches, substituting a thin slice ot Amer
ican fresh cheese for the ham, are delicious,
and some rollicking good livers toast the
cheese.
Chicken can be eaten for itself alone, but
it should be cut into very convenient frag
ments, judiciously salted and wrapped in a
very white napkin. The game or vealpis
must be in a strontr earthen dish, and hav
ing been baked the day before, its pieces
will have amalgamated with the
crust, and it will cut Into easily
handled slices. Do not forget
a dozen lemons and some sugar.
Tongue, cold beef and even cold sausages
make excellent varieties of sandwich. But
to prevent their becoming the "sand which
is under your feet" cover them over night
with a damp napkin.
Must Keep the Delicacies Separate.
All must be packed in luncheon baskets
with little twisted cornucopias holding pep
per and salt, with hard-boiled eggs, with'
the patty by itself, with croquettes, if they
happen to be made, with cold fried oysters
(excellent if ia batter and well drained
after cooking), no one refreshment allowed
to touch the other. If cake and pastry be
taken they should each have a separate bas
ket Emit also should be carefully packed
by itself. Eor if food gets mixed and mussy
even a mountain appetite will shun it A
bottle of olives is a welcome addition, and
pickles and other relishes may be included.
Sardines are also in order.
Now, wha to drink? Cold tea and iced
coffee prepared the night before, the cream
and sugar put in just before starting, should
be always provided. They are capital things
to climb" on, to "knit up the raveled sleeve
of care," and, if somewhat exciting to the
nerves, will be found the best thirst quench
ers. These beverages should be carefully
bottled, firmly corked (don't farget the
corkscrew) and plenty of tin cups, or
those strong glass beer mugs which you can
throw across the room without breaking.
Best Things In the Spirit line.
Claret is the favorite wine for picnicers,
as being light and refreshing, Ginger ale is
excellent and cheap and compact. "Cham
pagne," says "V?alter Besant in his novel,
'By Celias Arbor," is a wine as Catholic as
the Alhausian creed, because it goes well
with chicken and with the more elaborate
pate de fois gras. Some men prefer sherry
with their lunch, some take beer. If you
have room and a plentiful cellar take all
these things. But tea and coffee and ginger
ale will do for anybody, anywhere.
It has been suggested by those who have
suffered losses from mischievous friends that
a composite basket containing everything
should be put in each 'carriage, but this is
refining the matter.
Arrived at the picnic ground, the whole
force should be employed .by the hostess as
an amiable body of waiters. The ladies
should set the tables, the men bring water
from the spring, and the less ceremony the
better. It will go hard with the oldest
picnicker if at this juncture he does not re
lapse into poetry and say;
The Proper Poetlo Sentiment
"What good things these are, and how
few know how to cultivate their senses.
Wine such as this (here he drinks to the
hostess, who looks very rosy and dishevelled
after her Climb, but smiling),'the beauty of
women to take us out of ourselves, such
sandwiches, and allow me to pause over the
game pie. an unqualified success (much en
thusiasm) (hear hear), the view of yonder
valley,this inspiriting air, these hard-boiled
eggs (would there had been more salt!),
these lovely Hebes and graceful Ganymedes
coffee? Yes, more coffee, thanks. Captain,
haveyou ever been in love?"
The Captain responds gruffly, as if from
the bridge:
Never have been anything else.
Then let ua drink what claret cup! my
dears, this is too jnucli.
Old as we are, for ladies' love unfit,
Tlio pow er of beauty we remembor yet!
Things "have not been served in order;
they never are at a picnic, and the cunning
hostess now produces some claret cup. She
has made it herself since they reached the
top of the mountain. Two bottles of claret
to one of soda water, two lemons, a glass of
sherry, a cucumber sliced in (to give it tho
most perfect flavor), plenty of sugar and
ice, ana where had she hidden that immense
pitcher, a regular brown Toby, which she
has brewed it in? "I know," said an "en
fant terrible;" "I saw her hiding it under
the back scat."
Best for a Warm Afternoon.
Well, there it is, filled,with the most re
freshing drink of a warm afternoon, claret
ran. Various vountr persons of opposite
sexes who have been looking at each other
more than at the gams pie, now prepare td
disappear ia the neighboring patisj'uadw-
pretense but feebly made of plucking black
berries, artless dissemblers!
Mamma shouts: "Mary, Carlone, Jane,
Tom, Harry, be back before B, for we must
start for home."
May she get them even at half-past s&c
?rom a group of peasants ovir a bunch of
sticks in the Black Forest upioaaueenwha
delighted to picnic in Fontainbleaa these
alfresco entertainments are ever delicious.
We cannot put our ears too close to the con
fessional of nature.
In packing a lunch for a fisherman or a
hunter the hostess often has to exclaim that
brevity is the soul of wit She must often
compress a few eatables into the side pocket
and the bottle of claret into the fishing
basket If not, she can palm off on the man
one of those tin cases which poor little boys
carrv to school and which look like books
and have suggestive titles, like "Essays of
.Bacon, "Urabbe s Tales or "jxews uram
Turkey" on the back. If the fisherman will
take one of these his sandwiches will arrive
in better order.
Pew Agree With Western Hunters.
The "Western hunter takes a few beans
and some slices of pork, some say, in his
hat when he goes off on the warpath. But
the modern hunter or fisher, if he drives to
the meet or the burn, can be trusted with
an orthodox lunch basket, which should
hold cold tea, cold game pie, a few olives
and a bit of cheese, and a large reserve of
sandwiches. When we grow more celestial,
when we achieve the physical theory of an
other life, we may know how to concentrate
good eating in a more portable form than
that ofthe sandwich, but we do not know it
yet.
Now, take an egg sandwich hard-boiled
eggs, chopped and laid between bread and
butter. Can anything be more like the
sonnet? Complete in 14 lines, and yet per
fection! Only indefinite chicken, wheaten
flour, the milk ofthe cow all that goes to
make up our dallv food in one little com
pact rectangle! tgg sandwicht It is im
mense in us concentration. Some people
like to take salads and apple pies to pic
nics. There are great moral objections to
thus exposing these two delicacies to the
rough experiences of a picnic
Objections to Salads and ries.
A salad, how ever well dressed, is an oily
and slippery enjoyment. Like all great
joys it is apt to escape lis, especially in a
lunch basket Apple pie, most delicate of
pasties, will exude, and you are apt to find
the crust on the top of the basket and the
apple in the bottom ofthe carriage.
But if yon will take salad and will not be
taught by experience, make a perfect "Jar
diniere" of all the cold vegetables, green
peas, beans, and cauliflower, green peppers,
cucumbers, and cold potatoes, and take this
mixture dry to the picnic. Have your may
onnaise in a bottle and dres3 the salad with
it after sitting down (on a very slippery
ferny rock) at the table. Truth compels
the historian o observe, that this is delicious
with the ham, and you will not mind in the
least (until the next day) thf'large grease
spot on the side breadth of voir gown. As
for the apple pie, that is taken at the risk
of the owner. It had better be left at home
for tea.
Some "Very Acceptable "Dainties.
Of course pate de foie gras, sandwiches,
boned turkey, jellied tongue the various
cold birds as partridges, quails, pheasant,
chicken and raw oysters can be taken to a
very elaborate picnic near a large town.
Salmon dressed with green sauce, lobster
salad, every kind of salad, is in order if you
can only get it there, and "Caviare to the
general." Cold terrapin is not to .be de
spised eaten on a bit of bread. It is an ex
cellent dainty and so is the cold fried oyster.
The publio picnics, like Sunday school
picnics, fed with ice cream and strawberries,
the. clam-bake, a uniaue and en.lovable
affair by the sea, these are in the hands of
experts ana neea no aesenpuon nere. xne
Vrpneh neonle nienic everr dav in the Bois
de Boulogne, the woods of Versailles, even
on the asphalt, eating out-of-doors when
they can. It is a very strange thing that
we ao not improve our nne aiunaie oy eat
ing our dinners and breakfasts with the full
draught of an unrivalled ozone.
M. EL W. Shebwood.
PREPARATION OF CABBAGE.
While Not a Very Nutritious Vegetable Itf
a Good Thing to Te Somo of Elllco
Serena's General Beclpes Hints for the
Home.
warms roa the pispatch.
In his book on "Poods," Dr. Smith says
the cabbage represents the least nutritious
class of vegetable foods, and is perhaps less
valuable for its direct nutritive elements
than, for its indirect and medicinal saline
virtues; but it is nevertheless a most agree
able vegetable, and, from the variety of
ways in which it may be prepared, whether
raw or cooked, is considered a useful ad-
iunct to the table by the housekeeper, whose
1st of vegetables would not be complete
without cabbage. I append some recipes
for its preparation:
Boiled Cabbage.
Take a young cabbage", remove the outer
leaves, quarter, and soak in cold water, with
a good handful of salt, for an hoar or two.
Plunge Into rapidly boiling water, plenty of
it, to which has been added a level saltspoon
of bicarbonate of noda. Boil uncovered
for 20 minutes without ceasing, drain well
and serve with butter sauce. .
Fried Cabbage
Mince cold boiled cabbage flne.add a table
spoonful of butter, seasoning and a little
cream. Pnt Into a buttered frying-pan, stir
until quite hot, and before removing from
the Are allow it to brown slightly at tho
bottom.
Cold Slaw.
Take a small head of cabbage; shaTOflne
and sprinkle with salt. Put Into astewpan,
cover with boiling-waterand set on thestove
until tho dressing is made. Beat two eggs,
with two tablespoonsful (level) of sugar, one
of mustard, two of butter and a cupful of
cream. Drain the cabbage, pour In the
dressing and add one-half cupful of vinegar.
Set to coot
Following are some general recipes:
Tomato Cream Sonp.
Two large cups of tomato sauce, one quart
hot water, one pint cream. Add a little but
ter and flour, mixed together, to thicken, or
two crackers rolled. Put one-half teaspoon
fulofsoda In tomatoes before putting in
cream. . . -
Apple Souffle.
Stew tho apples as for sauce, adding a little
lemon Juice. Co cr the bottom and sides of
the dish with the sauce onc-balf inch thick.
Make a enstard of the yolks of two eggs to
one pint of milk, add a little cinnamon and
sugar, let the custard cool and then pour
Into the dish. Beat the whites and spread
over the top. 8et in an open oven for a few
minutes to lightly brown.
Orange Sponge Cake.
To the beaten yolks of three eggs add ono
Reasons Why
Dr. Price's Delicious Flavoring
Extracts of Lemon, Vanilla,etc.,
Are Superior to
They are prepared from the choicest and
purest materials.
They contain no poisonous oils or ethers.
They are highly concentrated. - y .-
They are more economical as they require
less to flavor. '
No delicacies are ever spoiled by thejr use. -
They impart the trueflavor ofthe
fruit from which they are macfe.
NEW ADVEBTISEMESTS.
I
WE TAKE STOCK JULY 1.
GREAT
REDUCTION!
During June.
'WnLTrinHe&D).
-5tX "Wood St,
my31-8u
cupful sugar, one-fourth cnpfnl cold water,
juice and rind of ono orange, one and one
half teaspoonfuls baking powder, sifted with
one heaping cupful pastry flour. Add the
frothed whites of two eggs last, and bake SO
minutes.
Good Muffins.
One pint sweet milk, butter less than tho
size of an egg, three neaping teaspoonfuls
baking powder, and flour enough to make &
batter not too stiff.
Peach Padding.
Fill a pudding dish with peeled peaches,
halved and stoned. Pour over them two
cupfuls of water. Cover closely and bake
until tender. Drain off the Juice and when
cool add to It one pint sweet milk, four
beaten eggs, a teacupful of flour with one
teaspoonlul baking powder sifted in, one
small enpful sogar, a pinch of salt and one
tablespoonful melted butter. Beat Ave min
utes, pour over the peaches and bake until
brown, fiervo with cream.
KIce Muffins.
Beat three eggs until light and stir into a
quart of sonr milk. Ad d one level teaspoon
lul of salt, one teaspoonful of soda and suffi
cient rice flour to make a stiff batter.
Bake In well-greased muffin pans or rings.
Macaroons.
The whites of thrie eggs, beaten to a stiff
froth, half a pound powdered sugar, half a
pound desslcated cocoannt, half a pint rolled
and sifted crackers, one teaspoonful extract
of bitter almond. Drop on buttered paper
and bake brown.
Small Sponge Cake.
One teacup powdered sugar, one of flour,
three eggs, half teaspoon cream tartar,
quarter teaspoon soda.
Very Fine Currant Jelly.
Take equal quantities of white and red
currants, tree from stems, leaves and dirt.
Put in jporcelain kettle with very little
water. Boil 20 minutes, but do not crush
the fruit .Strain through a flannel bagwith
ont squeezing. Add one pound of loaf sogar
to each pint of juice and boil 23 nrfaotes
Strain intoglasses.
Wheat or Corn 3Inmns
Mix Into one quart of wheat flour, oT one
Sint of cornmeal, two well-beaten eggs, a
ttle salt, and enough rich, sweet milk to
make a thick batter. Adda teaspoonful of
baking powder, beat well and b.uce in but
tered gem pans in a brisk oven. When dona
cover for a few minutes with a cloth.
Apple Cream.
Pare and. slice six fine apples. Steam or
stew them in very little water until soft
Add four tablespoonfuls of white sugar and
the whites of four eggs. Beat until light,
and place in fruit dish surrounded with
cream.
Costards.
The usual rule for baked enstard Is four
eggs to a quart of milk, a saltspoon of salt
and a cap of sugar.
Bako in a moderate oven until Arm in the
center.
Apple Tapioca Pudding.
Peel and core eight tart apples. Pill with,
sugar, and add to each a little grated nut
meg. Place in a buttered baking dish. Pour
around tho apples a cupful of tapioca soaked
over night and then mixed with a little
milk. Bake in a slow oven for one hour.
Serve with cream and powdered sugar.
Molasses Sponge Cake.
To ono cupful of molasses add a well
beaten egg, one teaspoonful of soda dissolved
in a half cupful of w nter, two tablespoonfuls
of melted butter and two cupfuls of sifted
flour. .Bake in shallow tins.
Here are some frugal dishe3:
Utilizing Cold Beef.
Mince pieces of cold roast beef very fine.
Stir into a batter of milk, flour and one egg.
Frybrowninhotfat and season with salt,
pepper and a little parsley.
Ulnced Codfish.
Flake cold boiled cod and to three cupfuls
of flsh add one large mashed potato, a small
piece of butter, one-half teaspoonful of com
starch and a beaten egg. Make into cakes
and fry brown.
Bread Fritters.
Cut stale bread In slices, remove crust,
shape in rounds, dip in egg batter one egg
to a cup of milk and fry brown.
Hints for the Housekeeper.
Iw selecting salt mackerel, examine them
carefully. If rusty In appearance reject
them.
In "trying out" or clarifying bntter It is
doneVrhen tho froth begins to rise. Skim,
strain, store in a cool place and keep well
covered.
The sauce par excellence for broils is
mushroom kotchnp; and the garnish crisp
lettuce, watercress or endive.
The water drained from macaroni, cab
bage or any vegetable, simmered with
the bones from roast beef, a little boiled
rice, a bit of onion and thickening of flour
makes a good, palatable soup.
New tins should be set over the Are, filled
with water, for some hours before using
them. '
Bread that is to be kept for a week should
be kneaded longer than that to be eaten
soon.
The marrow In bones should be scraped
out and nsed for cooking. It is more deli
cate for this purpose than suet.
BtrrrxR for cooking should always bo clari
fied. Mcstabd for instant uses should be mixed
-arith tniiv to which a little thin cream
should be added.
Cn.v loafs witiM lnn 1 Tftnartlft hv thft
QVAt .J M.tW .WUQU - ..W.-Q..- J .
quantity, cut in squares and kept In a dry
place to harden. Eixice Szbxsa.
All Others. -
s K
I - m.