20 FANCIES FOR THE FAIR. Spring Fashions at Borne and Abroad The Hats to Be Worn In London Some of the Novelties Gowns for Debutante and Belle. Hats I exclaims & London correspondent of The Dispatch In a letter received lust week. TTn hill, down dale, and round the corner! Far and wide they spread, laden with the fruits of the earth and the birds of the air I Why should the crowns of our heads he made to de scribe an an gle of Tiimmcd in Gill Galloon. 45O 7 Why should we measure a good 20 inches from the napes of our necks to the tip-topest polar regions of onr heads? Heaven knows! These are questions that eTen the oracular "p'liceman" cannot answer. One pretty little hat, of rough light gray straw, was of the most "up-hill" description, and had softly coiled and knotted crepe scarves coming from tbe turned-over brim at the back, of the most delicate shades of amber, pale gray and soft lilac This trim ming was held in place by silver pins, en crusted with pale yellow transparent stones, and the effect was charmingly "springv" and pretty. A queer bit of a head covering wis composed of a band of cocks' feathers, springing from a coil of orange velvet. A Hat of the Season. sharply curving toward where the crown ot a bonnet is usually worn, but where, in thti instance, it was absent. At the back was jn aigrette of black and gold, while orange velvet strings were crossed at the back aud tied under the chin. A great big hat was almost of the "poke" shape, f fine black chip, turned up very much at the back, and trimmed with quan tities of "baby-blue" narrow velvet riboons bunched in bows on the back, and the low rrott n. Tbe "face" of the brim had a count less number ot narrow little frills of hne black lace, aud resting on the hair on the left side was a sweet little rosette of the lainty blue vclveU Another nice bat was of mixed black and yellow stnw, in shape most indeterminate and indescribable. It betran life on the right side as a shady, useful-looking head covering, but on reaching the left side, rather to the front, it seemed to break its resolution and fell into a doz:n little upstanding curves aud crease, held in place by delicate jet pins, over which tumbled feathers matching the straw of black and yellow. Broad strings of soft eliow siik, shot with black, were brought ironi the "crumpled" back, and intended to tie under the chin with a big full bow. By tne way, strings 00 large hats are very broad ami sou, ditto on tiny bonnets are very nar row and stiff. A vegetarian of stern principles might prnclain. her creed to ihs world by w;ann n binnet I shall trv to describe to you. The loundation w..s of silver wire, and over it was drawn soft pieen gauze in faithful rep resentation ol an exaggerated lettuce leaf. The veining of tne leal was faithfully fol lowed by delicate silver thread, the gentle undulations nf the succulent vegetable be li'g prettily outlined by the same silvery ciging. At the back was a 1-irge loop of silver ribbons witu tiny little flies embroid ered on them with an aigrette of fine black and green .cathers rising from its daintr bed. Tne "strings" were only a cord of minted green and silver, aud were tied in a tiny bow close to the ieft ear. A fine black gauze veil witn silver flies was to be sold with this bonnet, and really the effect was not outraeeous but most delicately lovely though a little conspicuous. 3Iost charming gold of netwotk of gold, introd u ced for evening belts made of a sort have of lata been wear, especi ally with light silk, or crepe do Chine dresses, siys The Season. l heir ela- . . . . vs.. ticitv makes 'v them sit well sj to the wear er's fisrure. They are equally elegant when worn with a black silk or soft woolen robe. Another novelty is a brooch shaped like a key. It mar be used not only as fastening for the collar, but also as belt clasp and hat orna ment. A charming evening gown, writes Bet tina in her London fashion letter to THE Dispatch, was worn by such a pretty little dark-haired debutante at a "Cinderella" dreadful form ot entertainmentl the other evening. A full bebe bodice of white 'crepe d'ete was belted in at the waist with broad bows and ends of saffron ribbon, with a de sign of white violets, with their leave sUmncd on it. Thf skirt was full and plain f w ji jpimmiMm? Mz&mmsmtm UtirfVi.'R IM&: rrzJZ ?2!ttJww,xtfzus? ZSv-'XtV" and also of crepe, and was lifted at one'side to show an under petticoat of saffron-hued silk, with a ruche of white violets all round it This under petticoat was slightly trail ing, so that the violets did not "hide their fragrance" under the foamy overskirt. Bunches of white violets, tied with saffron ttiii1 ribbon, were on each shoulder and on the middle of the corsage. A wreath of the same delicate flowers, with a tiny bow of ribbon, rested on the dark hair. Long white suede gloves and a fan of saffron-coloured gauze with ivorv sticks. A huge bunch ot white violets was tied to the sticks with saffron ribbon, which formed a loop so that the fan could be carried on the wrist. The accompanying illustration of a tea-gown of challie.made in princess style, with aplaited flaring collar, close sleeves, draped front and knife-plated ruffle In jabots up the fronts of China silk. The drapery at the top of the sleeves is of the challie, edged with the knife-plaiting of silk. The accompanying illustration is of a wrap of lace and ribbon made up over a thin silk foundation. The back forms a Y ot lace in plaits, with ribbon bretelles on either side ending in a tiny fan below tbe waist, edged with lacewhich ex tends to the front and continues as a double jabot to the erect neck frill. The handaome edgedribbon forms bretelles ending in loops and ends be low. The sleeves are of wider lace puffed on the shoulders and strapped with the ribbon. The loung ing coat, or ' smoker, "has given its neglige cut to nianyof the new garment s , probably i n t ro il need through the Bedford cordas the material first gain ed popular atten tion in this style ol jacket. Button ed coats are seen finished down the buttonhole side of the lront with deep scallops out lined with gold braid. Buttons like flattened balls are made of pearl. Borders 01 graduated cabochans are showy. Feather ruches and border edges, and those of silk "feathers," are depended upon. Jewels are almost as plentiful on coats as on mantles. Hand embroidery is on silk wraps. Cardinal surah is a favorite lining. The black silk capes and coats will be found convenient in being suitable for wear with all dresses, and the coat suits specially de sirable for the promenade in rendering a wrap unnecessary. Tailor-made gowns still assert their as cendancy for rougn "walking wear" in London, but it is to be questioned whether the latest additions of gold and silver embroidery on skirts and jackets is an improvement. Such brilliant garni ture seems a little out of place on a gown that is meant for every-day use, and it should be used, therefore, sparingly, and in most cases entirely eschewed. "Golden slippers," continues Bettica, are no longer "good style." Silvered foot wear, with bows of silver gauze studded with opaline beads, are correct onlr with a thin white dress; otherwise the material of the shoes must match the gown. Square-toed, high Reeled, paste-buckled shoex-are correct only with the Louis QuitWcoati. Very Pointed ;nE?r23 ft3 a Wffl&i&tMiwmm SiF3S5Ktea'WtM3W 'HI hmSrmJ IIHH Wi If HI wil 1 ai 1 Bill r H I A i. fiJI :m im 1 y! 1 Up lis f L JL Monte Govm by Worth. THE toeiand high insteps "go" with trianon paniers, and black velvet slippers with little paste or rhine-stone buckles on the toes are the things for neutral-tinted dinner gowns. The blazer seemi to hare taken a new de parture in that it opens the season in such elaborate guise, or disguise, ai almost to prevent its recognition. v t a reeeSt inburban wedding, sayi the 27er York Times, the bride wore a wreath of myrtle in lieu of the traditional orange flowers. Her bouquet was of white hya cinth", wtfich, after bestowing a stem upon each groomsman, she duly threw back into the ball, where six bridemaids and her maid of honor eagerly contested for its possession. The groom belonged to the navy, and his groomsmen were gorgeons in gold lace and glittering buttons, an effect of yellow and black which was paraphrased by the yellow and white of the bridemaids toilets. These young women carried bunches of yellow daffodils and wore gold shoes, which, with their gowns ot white chiffon, made them striking pictures. The chancel and altar were banked with yellow and white bloom all of which, since yellow has ever been ac cepted bs the hue of the forsaken, shows the bride to be quite above notions. The Vienna "Housewives' Society," which was started about seven years ago, and since then has taught the noble art of good housekeeping to 1,281 girls, partly orphans preparing for matrimonial duties, and the rest girls going out to service, has taken a now departure, and beginning trith the middle of next month proposes to give a course of instruction to nursemaids and governesses. The girls will be tanght to set an untidy room straight in the least possible time, to wash and dress children thoroughly, and to treat children's hair from a hygienio standpoint. Furthermore, they must learn to mend children's clothes, and also all kinds of games and amusements, and no girl will receive a certificate without pasting an examination in general proficiency. TWENTY CENTS A DAY. A Hearty Laboring Man's Food Should Cost Him No Mote Money Wasted In Fuel and Bad Cooking How to Make Sally lawn Other Recipes. IWKITTEN FOB THE DISPATCH. 3 In a recent lecture Edwin Atkinson stated that with nine-tenths of the people the cost of maintaining life exceeds half the income. The came of this is, in many in stances, waste of fuel and improperly cooked food. Mr. Atkinson showed that with the improved culinary appliances, which are fortunately becoming daily better known, the cost of feeding anybody would range from SO cents a day for a hard-working man to 12)4 cents a day for a woman doing very light work. The "Aladdin" stove, by which Mr. At kinson accomplished these wonderful re sults, is simply an iron box, about 18 inches long by 14 in height and width. It is in closed in a case made of wood pulp. Under it is an ordinary lamp burning about a quart of kerosene oil in eight hours. All the heat is retained in the oven, and it is never higher than about 360. There is absolutely no smell, and the food is cooked without distilling tbe juices or dessicating the solids. "With this oven, all there is to do is to put in the food,, and the lamp does the rest. No attention whatever is required. With it anyone can cook, and cook well. In addition to the Aladdin oven, Mr. At kinson has, invented a workman's dinner pail, in which a dinner of two courses can be carried to the workshop and cooked over an ordinary lamp during tbo morning ready for consumption at the noon hour. A reader cf The Dispatch asks for a recipe for Sally Lunn. I give below two re liable recipes for this favorite cake, so often found on the Southern breakfast tablet Sally Lnnn No. 1. Sift into one quart of flour two teaspoon! uls of baking powder, and add to it a scant half enpful of butter and two tablespoonfnls of sugar creamed together. Stir In a pint of milk and two beaten eggs; add a little salt, mix well and bake In two round pang until light brown. When about to serve tear in pieces do not cut. Sally Lnnn No. 3. Elft together one pint of flour, two teaspoon fuls of baking powder and one-half teaspoonful of salt. Beat two eggs, whites and yelks sep arately. To the yelks add ono-balf cupful of sweet milk. Stir slowly into the flour, and pour in one-half cupful of melted butter. Add whites of egg3 last. Bake in gem pans, two tblrds fall. Following are some reliable general reci pes: Custard Pudding. One quart of milk, four eggs, a pinch of salt, four tablespoonfnls of sugar, a grating of nut meg. Bake In a greased pudding dish until solid, and remove from the oven before It cur dles. Biscuit Padding. Beat up the yelks of four egg!, add the whites beaten stiff, a pint of milk, sntrar and flavor to taste. Put biscuit in this mixture and when well soaked, remove, drain and set in tbe oven to brown, after spreading with butter and strewing with currants. Steam Budding. An excellent cup pudding is made after the following recipe: Beat to a light ceam a tea cupful of butter and two tablespoonfnls of sugar. Add two eggs, the yelks and whites beaten separately, on coffee cup of milk, two coffee cups nf.sified flour, one cupful of raisins or currants (properly prepared) well floured,, and three level tablespoonfnls of baking pow der, silted in last. Steam In cups 'or glasses, half filled, for one hour. Should any pudding be left over I doubt it set it in the steamer the next day for S3 minutes. Serve with sauce or cream. Molasses Cake. One cupful dark molasses, one-half enpful butter, one level teaspoon soda, and ginger to taste. Cream the butter, idd other ingredients, and beat until foamy. Add one-half cupful of boiling water, two cupf uls of flour and one egg. Bake in a brisk oven. Bice Fritters. Steam a quarter of a pound of rice in milk until tender. Add a pint of milk, two beaten eges, a capful of sugar, a pinch of salt, a little cinnamon and flour enouzn to make a rather stiff batter. Fry in thin cakes and serve with butter and sugar. ESC Sponge for Sonp. Mix together the yelk of ono egg, a teaspoon ful of flour, and a pinch of salt. Add tbe white of ege. beaten stiff, mix gently and pour on top the soup. Turn in a few minutes, separate and pour into tbe tureen with the soup. Eggs and Bacon. Cut some bacon very thin, and put into a fry ing pan with a little butter or drippings. Put In the bacon, and when fried on one side turn over and break an egg on each piece. When tbe e2gs are set put tbe cake slice (or turner) under tbe bacon and remove gently to the plat ter, which should be warm. Eggs With Sauce. Boil four eggs ten minutes and throw into cold water. Peel and slice thin one onion and fry white in a tablespoonful of butter. Adda teaspoonfnl ot flour, mix well, add a half pint of milk and season with salt and pepper. Sim mer tbe sauce for a few minutes and put In tbe eggs cut into six pieces each, crosswise. Toss them gently until heated and serve on toast. Codfish frith Cheese. Cover a piece of salt codfish with plenty of water and let stand over night, in the morn ine shred it, removing skin and bone. Thicken a cupful ot boiling milk with a tablespoonful of flour, and the same quantity of butter, rubbnd together. Turn In the codfish, stir until heated, and then pour into a greased Daking dish. Strew with grated cheese and bake brown. Berry Padding. Sift together a pint of flower, one-half tea spoonful of salt, and two teaspoonfuls of bak ing powder. Beat up two eggs, add a cup of milk, two tablespoonfnls of melted butter and a pint of berries. Mix with the flour and boll or steam for one hour. Good Pastry. One cupful of lard and butter mixed, three cupf uls ot flour and a level teaspoonful of salr. Sift flour and salt, and chop in tbe shortening, which should be cold and firm. Blend with a little ice water, and handle as little as possible. Boll the paste from yon Stewed Cabbage. Shave the cabbage fine, cover with plenty of boiling water, and Keep boiling steadily for SO minutes. Brain, season with salt, pepper and butter. Add a little cream and dredge of flour. Eilice Serena. Will call at your residence with samples and furnish estimates on furniture reuphols tery. Haugh & Keexax, 33 Water street. 0 . u PETTSBURG- DISPATCH. HOW TO GET MARRIED Mrs. John Slicrwood Describes llie ' Customs in Polite Society. A PROPER WEDDING IN ENGLAND. Announcing- the Engagement, the Invita tions and the Ceremony. ' BRIDEMAIDS AND THE IIO.NEXMOON rwRtrrzir ron the dhpA.tch.1 Bice and slippers, slippers and ricel Quaint old symbols of all that's nice In a world made up of sugar and spice. With a honeymoon always shining; A world where the birds keep house by twos. And the ring dove calls and the stockdove cooes, And maids are many and men may choose And never shall love go pining. If there were no weddings there would be no "art of entertaining." It is the keynote, the initial letter, the open sesame of the great business of society. Therefore, cer tain general and very, perhaps, unnecessary hints as to the conduot of weddings in all countries may not be out of place here. In London a wedding in high life, or as the Frenoh call it "hilif," is a very sweep ing affair. If we were to read alone the de scriptions in the Court Journal of one wedding troussean furnished to a royal princess, or to Lady Gertrude Somebody, we should say with Fielding that "Dress is the principal accomplishment of men and women," and as for tbe wedding cake which is built at Gunter's, it is a sight to see, al most as big as Mt. Blanc. Tho Proper Source of Wedding; Cake . The importance of "Ganter" is assnied by the Epicure's Almanac, published in 1815, and for many years this firm supplied the royal iamily. When George III. was king the royal dukes stopped to eat his pines in gratitude for the sweet repasts fur nished them in childhood, but now the Buz zards of 197 Oxford street also are special ists for wedding cakes. Leigh Hunt, writ ing one of his pretty little essays, described one Trumbull Walker as the""artist who confined himself to that denomination," meaning wedding cake. His mantle fell on the Buzzards. This enormous cake and the equally enormous bouquet are the chief distinctive marks in which a London wedding differs from ours. To be legal, unless by special license of the Archbishop of York, wed dings in England must be celebrated before 12 o'clock. The reason given for this law is that belore 1820 gentlemen were supposed to be drunk after that hourand not responsi ble for their own promise and expression made at the altar. The wedding breakfast in England is often a sit-down affair with speeches. It is not followed in our country often; perhaps it is well to omit the speeches. The Mother Breaks the New. The first intimation of an engagement should come from the bride's mother, and the young bride fixes the day of her wedding herself. Then tbe father and mother or guardians of the young lady issue cards, naming the day and hour of the wedding. Brides often give the attendant maidens their dresses, or if they do not do this, they suggest what they shall wear. Tbe groom gives the bridemaids lockets, bracelets or rings, and presents each of his ushers with scarf pins or studs, something by which he shall remember the day. The fashion of groomsmen has passed away, and the happy man is only attended by a "best man," one friend at' the altar who holds his hat and otherwise sustains him. The bridemaids still hold their own, al though q pretty fashion has been intro duced of a "lady of honor," who precedes the bridal procession into the church. Six ushers generally precede the party into the church, after having seated the guests. These are generally followed by six bridemaids who walk two and two. No one wears a veil but the bride herselt, who enters on her father's arm. The bridal dress is of white with long train; the veil, of tulle or real lace, must be fastened with orange blossoms. But all this may be varied if the bride chooses, and a traveling dress and bonnet substituted. Young widows who marry a second time must not wear white or veils. What the French Complain Of. The fact that the bride is in white satin and often with low neck and short sleeves, nnd the groom in full morning costume, is much criticised in France. The invitations to the wedding are very simple and explicit: ; MB. AND MRS. CHAPMAN : request the pleasure of your comany : ; at the marriage of their daughter : : Esclaiumode : : : to : Mb. Gerald Fitz Gerald, : : : on : : Thursday, June 16. at 12 o'clock. : : St. Peter's Church. : Another card is inclosed to those who are asked to the reception. After these cards are out the fiancee must not appear at the opera, the theater or balls. In asking a young lady to be her bride maid the bride is supposed to be actuated by feelings of relationship or friendship, al though fashion and wealth and other con siderations often influence these invitations. Each bridemaid is expected to give a band some present. The groom asks men of his own ago and of his intimate acquaintances. They most be unmarried men, and are ex pected to manage all matters at the church. Music should play softly throucb the pre paratory entrance of the family. The mother of the bride and her nearest relatives pre cede her into the church and arc seated be lore she enter?, unless the mother be a widow and give the bride away, a very touching and beautiful ceremony. Cold and Ceremonies. After the ceremony, which should be con-' ducted with great dignity and composure on all sides, for exhibitions of feeling in public are in tbe worst possible taste, the officiating clergyman shakes hands with tbe young couple and congratulates them. The bride takes her husband's right arm and they walk down the broad aisle without recognizing anyone in the church to their carriage at the door, followed by the bridesmaids, the ushers, the family, and drive home to stand under a floral bell and to be congratulated. The bride's mother yields her place as hostess for the nonce, and is addressed after the bride. After two hours of receiving the bride retires to change her dress lor a travel in? auiLwhtah mav be of any color but black. 1 Mrs. John Sherwood. SUNDAY; APRIL 19 She comes down with her mother and sisters, meets the groom in tbe ball, and dispenses the flowers of her bouquet to the smiling maidens, each of whom, struggles for a flower. Then occurs the farewell, a scene of mingled tears and smiles. The horses and driver and footman of the carriage which is to drive the happy pair for the honeymoou are all dressed with white favors and flowers, and at they driye off rice ia thrown after them and an old slipper. In England the happy pair spends the honeymoon at some house, a friend's house presumably lent for the occasion. However, in this land of comfortable hotels, an agree able and quiet apartment can always be secured. v Tho Bride's Receiving Days. After returning to her home the bride should advise her friends by card of the days on which she will receive them. To persons not invited to tbe wedding the par ents of the bride send announcement cards. Dinners to the young pair succeed each other in rapid succession. For the first three months after the art of entertainment is stretched to its uttermost. If the wedding occurs in the evening then the groom must wear the dress coat and white tie. If it is to be celebrated at home, the space where the hndal partv is to stand is usually marked off by a ribbon. The clergyman comes down in his robes before the bridal pair, they face him and he faces the com pany. Hassocks are prepared for them to kneel upon. After the ceremony the clergyman retires from his coigne of vantage, and the bridal party takes his place, standing to re ceive their friends' congratulations. Should there be dancing at a wedding, and it is not a bad old custom, particularly in the coun try, the bride must open the first quadrille, dancing with the best man, while the groom takes out the first bridesmaid. As for showing the wedding gifts, that must be left to individual taste. No friend should be deterred from sending a small present, one not representing a money value, because other and richer people can send a more expensive gift. Often the humble of fering is a much more and enduring souve nir. Any gift which betokens a long and predetermined interest in the bride is the most flattering. Ostentation of Gift Giving. The custom of giving bridal gifts has be come an outrageous abuse of a good thing. From being a very pretty custom, one which had as its base the good reason of helping the young couple to begin housekeeping, which is still observed in Holland aud the North, by presents of bed and table linen and the necessary furniture of the house, it has become but another form of ostentation. There gets to be a rivalry between the families; the publicity of the whole thing, the notoriety and extravagance, could well be rebuked. The wedding breakfast in America is a stand-up affair, and it is proper to serve every delicacy, such as salads of chicken and lobster, boned and truffled turkey and pheasants, pati of game, cold partridge, pate de foie gras, terrapin and oysters, ices, creams, jellies and fruits, champagne, claret and punch. The bride sometimes cuts the cake and allows the young people to search for a ring. The prettiest wedding is one in Jane at a country house, particularly if the bride can walk to church over flowers and under the blossoming trees. Tbe massing of a single flower, the yellow daffodil or the pink and white apple blossom, is a very good idea. Remembering the Domestics. If choir boys could sing a wedding choral outside the windows it would be a happy thought, and it is a pleasant feature of a country wedding that the laithful domestics who have loved the bride from childhood can assist. In England they count on each wearing a favor made by the bride herself. The cook, the maid, the nurses and the men servants in England always expect a wed ding favor and a small gratuity, and in this country all expect a box of wedding cake. At acountry wedding, if the day is fine, little tables are set out on the' lawn. The ladies seat themselves around, the gentlemen carry refreshments to them. The piazzas can be decorated with autumn boughs, ever greens and flower;, the whole thing becomes a garden party, and even the familv dogs should have a wreath of white flowers around their food old necks. Many brides of to-day leave the bouquet at borne, and carry an Ivory prayer book to church. The term honeymoon is derived from the Ger man, who drank metheglin, a beverage made of honey, for 30 days after tbe wed ding. The bude cake is not so universally sent about as formerly, but still one finds the little narrow box of cake near the door for each to tuke. Bettor Cling to the Ring. As the ring is the expressive emblem of tbe perpetuity of the comp.ict, and as the bride cake and libations form significant symbols of the nectar sweets of matrimony, it will not do to banish the cake altogether, although few people eat it and few wish to carry it awjy. Brides should send their future address, if possible, with the wedding cards, else if one is invited only to a church wedding, no one knows when or where to call. It is a con venient and pleas int custom for the bridal pair to send out after their marriage cards, having the date of two or more reception davs at their new residence. Quiet weddings either at home or in church are very much preferred by some families. The bride is married in traveling dress and bonnet, and drives off in the groom's carriage from a quiet wedding to the honeymoon. People with a large ac quaintance cannot always invite all their Iriends, of course, to a weddiug reception, therefore only ask them to the church. These invitations require no answer, but peopla being at a distance, who cannot at tend tbe wedding, should send their cards by mail to assure their hosts that the invi tation has been received. Much ill feeling is apt to be engendered by the distinction which is inevitably made in leaving out the friends who leel that they were entitled to an invitttion to the house. It is better to offend no one on to impoitant an occasion. The Wedding Stationery. Wedding cards and wedding stationery shonld be simple, white without glaze, and with no ornamentation at all. It is proper for the bride to have her left hand bare as she walks to tho altar, as it eaves her tbe trouble of taking oft a long glove. Child bridemaids are very pretty and very much iu favor. These charming children, cov ered with flowers, looking very grave and solemn, ure the sweetest of heralds for a wedding procession. It is very troublesome to be ninrrd in Fratice, especially if one of the high con tracting parties be a foreigner. A certificate of baptism is required, together with that of the marriage 01 the father and mother and a written consent of the grandfather aud grandmother, it either is alive and the parents dead. The names of the parties are then put up on the door of the Mairie or Mayor's office for 11 days. Getting Married in England. In England there are four ways of getting married. The first is by special license, which costs 50, There is then the ordinary license, which can be procured cither at doctor's commons or through a clergyman, who must also be a surrogate and resident of the diocese where the marriage is to tuke place. Both the parties must swear that they are of aee, or if minors that they have the consent of their parent". But to be married by banns is considered the most orthodox as well as most economi cal way of proceeding. The banns must be published in the church of the parish in which the lady lives for three consecutive Sundays prior to the marriage; also the same law holds good for tbe gentleman, mid the parties must have resided 1C days in the parish, or the knot may be tied in a licensed chapel or at the office of a registrar, notice being given three weeks previously. As tbe business of getting married is more lenient than it is in France and England so is tbe liberty allowed to an engaged pair greater than it is abroad. In England no young girl is allowed to dine alone with her fiance. There must be a servant in attend ance. Nor is she allowed to co to the theater alone with him, or travel under his escort, or stop at the same hotel, or relax any of those rigid rules which a Spanish duenna would en'orce. "VI. 33. W Simatvoon. 1391 INDEPENDENT WOMEN Have Great Difficulty in Finding Living Accommodations. TEIBULATIONS OF HOTEL LIFE. Tbe Appointments of a Garden Spot in the Oasis of New York A CHANCE F0K THE CAPITALISTS IWKITTEN FOE THX DISPATOlI.l Educated sensibilities are not without their sufferings. With this introduction I leave you to the reading of the following letter which bears a New York date, pre mising, however, that all its statements are the barest fact, as most women will know without question: "As women come to confession to you, al low one of the homeless to pour her story into your ear, I freely own to you that I am one of the homeless, not far from starv ing, though no Board of Charity would ever admit me to its bounty or class me in tbe list of deserving or undeserving poor. My in come, every dollar of which 1 earn by the sweat of my brow, or my brain, is sufficient for all the comforts and some of the taste ful things of life, at least it would be if the city afforded me and such as me anything like a home. Business compels my presence in the city, moreover my health, just begin ning to wear, demands baths and treatment not to be found outside of it, otherwise I bad rather work in a Hoboken market garden or FeterjHenderson's greenhouses than live in town. In HIgh-Toned Iionellness. "I usually begin my city sojourn in one of the uptown hotels, where cleanliness and quiet are domiciled, but SI a day for the comforts of a bedroom 10 by 11 and water hygienically frozen in the decanter, three stories over the heads of several millionaires' families, does not exactly suit an artist's re sources. A week of this high-toned loneli ness usually sends me to one of the lower priced hotels, where my friends have been in the habit of stopping tho last quarter of a century. "No longer m the highway of fashion and business, these houses begin to show wear and hardly keep up to their reputation. Tbe restaurant will be good, but the rooms show sad want of housekeeping. I should not mind the threadbare Brussels so much if it were only.clean; the water bugs under the washstand rather dismay a nervous per son, while the sewer gas and tbe leaking gas fixtures disturb the mind of the educated one. I never turn down the sheet, prefer ring to leave the mattress to imagination; blankets I can't help seeing sometimes, and they are enough to spoil a woman's rest. Might Profit by Continental Example. "Will our hotels ever attain the conti nental refinement of bare polished floors, with a washable rug at the bedside and slip covers for the mattresse3, or will they ever have the common sense to adopt the sponge siltc blankets, which can be washed more easily than the sheets? I freely own that it is difficult to keep bedding clean after promiscuous travelers who turn in with tbe grime of a week's travel about them or go to bed in their boots next the blankets. But this does not m ake it any more agreeable for a woman to occupy the room after them. "Add to this the necessity for wearing a severely scrupulous visage outside your own room lest some half-bred man should read general invitation in your glance, tbe cease less suspicions surveillance of servants, and tbe position is sufficiently removed from comlort. It was in no second-class house, but one of the choicest and most scrupu lously kept of high-priced family hotels that a friend of mine had a bad fright. De tained 'in New York over night on business, she was awakened in the'small honrs by a racket at the lock, and the immediate presence in her bedroom of a hall boy and a traveler with his lugeage. The porter had blundered, thinking the room vacant, and the lock was out of order, hence the in vasion, which was followed by pungent re buke from tbe lady and a demand for another room whose door would stay locked, to which she had her things removed iu the middle of the night. Things the Lone Woman Bears. ''This is an exceptional experience proba bly. It is more common to be kept awake by a neighbor who retires at 2 A. M. in high spirits, having taken more than was good for him, and converses in a key clearly audible aud speech which leads to a speedy closing of near" transoms. A honeymoon squabble is hardly less obnoxious, and the conversation of two business men over a pa tent or a sharp trade is equally uninterest ing. Tbe entertainment is varied by the political suppers of ward clubs, at which the singing is as bad as the wine, and prevents sleep on several floors long past the smallest of the hours. "Tired of such amenities I used to hurry into a boarding house, taking tho lists of the Sunday papers. It would require a longer letter to recount the drawbacks of boarding, which, I think, combines ail tbe miseries of file with greater success than any other civilized form of existence. Be tween poor food, and too little of it, and bad air from ingenious mismanagement, I have nearly lost my health. Of tbe risks in volved socially, of the spiritualistic and faith cure humbugs, the prying suffrage cranks, the highly dressed adventuresses one meets in the average boarding house I will speak some other time. First Impression Favorable. "But, taking my fate in my hand, I asked for a boarding house bureau which used to exist on Union square It had closed, as all such conveniences do, after a year's trial, but I would find a 'bureau' for ladies nut far west of Broadway. There, in the rain, I be took myself. "That the house was respectable in ap pearance was a gratifying surprise; that it was clean, bright and tastefully appointed within was a greater. A page in buttons opened the door; a cheerful drawing-room, decorated in white and gold, was charmingly warm that raw spring day, and light, easy chairs in place of tb.6 regulation stuffed lumiture, drawn about a table of late papers and magazines does not this sound pleas ant, my homeless sister? It is some sign of progress that New York holds the nucleus of a woman's hotel, where women of inde pendent income can find comfort, at tolera ble prices. Transient lady guests engaging rooms are met at the train by a most gentle manly escort, who sees to their baggage. Their comfortable, Jresii rooms have nil the privacy nf home, as none but their own sex are admitted as lodgers, while at the same time they are tree to receive gentlemen's visits in the parlors as they would be at their own houses, and go to theater or con cert evenings, 'Ure that some one will be up to admit them without a frown if they are out later than 10 o'clock. Freedom ol a TTell-Brcd Home. "There is no schedule ol rules to fetter every motion, as il women were not to be trusted outside 0' a cage of Iron network, but the freedom uf a well-bred borne is ac corded each visitor. Il a lady wants to sec New York independently her tickets are taken for Sara Bernhardt or any entertain ment, and a kindly .chaperon provided lor the evening, or for the daily visits to shops and galleries. "Il she wants a dressmaker, a dentist or a doctor, she is directed to the best. If her special Reginald or Gustavns wishes to spend an evening with her he is tint frowned upon jUy a suspicious duenna, but tho couple are put in possession of the cosy back parlor, which no occasions is engaged lor ladies' lunch parties or small dinners. The draw iue room floor is nlteii t)tKen afternoons for luilies club meetings, classes or lectures, to that there is something constantly' going on iu the house. , "Indeed, college girls -have no livelier times thau the brisk business and pro fessional women who find themselves well met under the friendly roof, which I will only call 'The Bureau.' The chill, the espionage nnd repression which are the habit of women's uociatioB do not belong. here.they are chased away by the courteous, kindly spirit of well-bred womeu of the world. Instances of Club arrowness. "It does seem as if some of the women's associations and clubs modeled themselves on strictest conventional patterns. Onr lady came over from a very exclusive club, whose members were all society people, carefully culled from the finest circles, hurt and indignant that her own nephew had been refused permission to call and take her to the theater, and another matron was not allowed to hive herown son come to her room, whiie the two ladies were down from their country homes. What possible good is to be gained from such exclusions? The Phariseeisui of some women reaches imbe cility, and credits neither their minds nor their morals. It is curious to imagine on what possible grounds a club can be run, whose members pay a liberal price for every accommodation, but are refused the visits of their nearest relatives. "It is delightful to have some degree of privilege and independence, in virtue of one's womanhood, to enter a house where women have the first right and considera tion, where the large, comfortable rooms are consecrated to feminine bactelors, together with tbe best that a most efficient house keeper, manager and steward can do for scrupulous care and nicety. I would not exclude men from any good thing, yet there was a sense of even-handed justice when the editor of a leading literary magazine, ap plying for rooms with his wife, had to be denied on account of being a man. Tho Feminine Bachelor's Bights. "There are so many houses which have no room for women. The sense of protected privacy, of correct surroundings, is price less to a woman, and minor things about tbe place add greatly to its attractiveness. "Tbe shining baths and large, light bath rooms, perfectly aired and fresh with tbe sweet garden fragrance of fine germicides Instead of the close, intolerable odors usual on the landings; the scrupulously kept res taurant, whose tasteful china and dainty service speak feminine appropriation, are the more grateful to womanly sent.es than words can tell. That the stronger sex ap preciates them is evident by the promptness of gentlemen to avail themselves of the snug, prettv restaurant on the lower floor. "There is one drawback to the place it is not large enough to take one-tenth the peo ple who would be glad to fill such a bright, tasteful, well-kept place the year round. Booms are taken a week in advance, and women share the large, double-bedded rooms with strangers rather than see sister women sent away without the comforts of the house. "I write of this to let women through the country know what nice quarters they can find if they wish to take a nice little rnn alone to the city, without belonging to an expensive, exclusive ladies' club or joining tbe lists with working women. It is a be ginning only of what might and ought to be done, but a very successful one. Doing Good With Capital. "The affair is started by a list of lady stockholders, comprising names well known is every sense of the word, and they expect ample returns on the investment. Here is the chance dear to the heart of the public minded investor of doing good with capital at 10 to 15 per cent profit. Tbe profits are so sure that a wealthy man offered the orig inator of the scheme $10,000 on her own note to enlarge the business, provided it could be taken out of the hands of women stockholders, whom business men have ob jects against joining. "Tbe capitalist who will open a ladies' hotel of ample accommodations for the in dependent class of women and carry it on as it should be, with as competent manage ment as the single house of the Visitors' Bureau, will strike the success of the year, and as they pay their dollars into his hand women will call bim benefactor. "Tourists who find themselves afloat in the city from tbe other side of the Atlantic, brisk Western women, on for spring shop ping and sight seeing, head teachers, artista and professional women would be glad to know of moderate-priced, inviting quarters, and it is a neglect of opportunity that they are not provided. Katheiuxe II." The types in my last letter divided a sen tence to the sad contradiction ot the writer's meaning. "Gretna" wrote that over-massage started the down on her cheeks when she "had been rejoicing in its disappearance after six weeks'use of genuine toilet cerate." A period after "disappearance" belled the sense completely, and I fear will cost more than this explanation to correct, SniELEx Sabs. WITH AN TTKSEEli' P0WEB. A Trick Upon Which It Is Safe to Lay a Wager Every Time. On a dry day rub with a brush, or with tbe hand, a thin piece of paper; it will be come electrified in a short time, and adhere to your hand, your face or your coat, as if it had glue on it, and you will not be able to get rid of it. Electrify, in the same manner, a thick piece of paper, a postal card, for example, and you will see that, as with sealing wax, glass, sulphur or rosin, this card can attract Hght bodies (small pieces of .cork, etc.) Balance a cane on the back of a chair and wager anyone in the audience that you will make it fall without touching it, blowing on it, or moving the chair. All you need to do, according to the CitircAman, is to drv the card well before the fire, rub it vigorously with your sleeve and put it close to one end of the cane, which will follow it as iron follows a mag net, until, having lost its equilibrium, tbe cane will fall to the floor. He Wai a Itepabllcan Boy. New York Herald.l Irate Father I'll tan your hide, you young scampi Bad Boy (defiantly) You d-d-do and I'll appeal to Mr. McKinley. Hide's protected, they is I STOCK EHMELT Wf . M FINE WALL PAPER! AT ALL 541 SV00D ST. 541 Bank of Commerce Building. DEALERS IN " LINCRUSTA WALTON." OUR DOCTORS LEAD.- Wonderful Progress in Practical Medicine Made in America. A MACHINE TO WHITE MUSIC The Glass Workers Have Attained a Dig Artistic Standard. DELICATE UEASDfiElIENTS OP HEAT fFBErAEZD VOR TBZ DISPATCH. The most important improvements in praor tical medicine made in the United States of late years have been in surgery in its; various branches. This country has led thq way in tbe ligation of some of the large arteries, in tbe removal of abdominal tumors, in the treatment of diseases and in juries peculiar to women, and of spinal af fections, as well as deformities of various kinds. Above all, we were the first to show the gsaof anaesthetics the most important advance made during tbe century. In our lata war we taught Europe how to build, organist and manage military hospitals and we formed the best museum in existence for the illustrs tiou or modern military medicine and surgery. Our contributions to medical literature hava been large and valuable, and our Government possesses the most complete and best working medical library in tbe world. Tbe total number of surgical instruments and appliances patented during tbe past decada has been about 1,200, tbe patents having been, in almost all cases, taken out by manufactur ers. With these may be classed dentists' tools and apparatus, of which about 500 bave been patented daring the last 10 years, and in this field of Invention the United States leads the) world. Tbe same may be said with regard to artificial limbs, of which our great war gava rise to manv varieties. Dr. J. S. Billings, in speaking of tbe progress of this country in medicine, surgery and practical sanitation, says that by far the greater number of the own ers of panaceas and nostrums are too shrewd to puDlisn their secrets by patenting their wares, for they can attain their purposes much better under the law for registering trade marks and labels, designs for bottles and packages, and copyrights or printed matter, which are less costly and do not reveal tbe arcanum. These proprietary medicines constitute tbe great bulk of what tbe public call "patent medK cines." Br. Bllllngi says: "I know of but fonr secret remedies which have been really valuable ad ditions to tbe resources of practical medicine, and the composition of all these Is now known. Most of such remedies bave little value aa curative agents, and some of them are, pre? pared and purchased almost exclusively for immoral or criminal purposes." Late Science Gossip. Air admirable mode of opening and closing fireproof shatters from the outside with water pressure from the hose nas been Introduced lnio various fire departments. The device can; readily and inexpensively be applied to ordi nary shutters. A prominent railway journal makes the ex cellent suggestion that enterprising and pro gressive manufacturers shonld supply trada papers to tnelr men at their own expense, hold ing that tbe Increased efficiency thereby pro moted would repay them many times over. A typewriter which will do for mnslo what the ordinary machine does for speech or written composition is a need of the a;e- Al though not devoid of difficulty, the idea is quite a practical one, tho principal obstacle to be encountered being the tendency to uncer tain alignment, when necessarily heavy typa faces, such as are formed by notes with bar and ledger lines, have to be employed. The exist ing methods of either copying music by hand or setting it up in type are so time-consuming that any efficient music typewriter would be 4 distinct gain to the musical world. The degree ot delicacy which ba3 been at tained in tbe application of tbe radio-micro meter for the measurement of radiant heat, viz.: from a candle, a lire, the snn, the moon, the stars, or anything else which radiates heat through space, is marvelous. An appreciable) effect Is producrd on the radio-micrometer by a, candle placed two miles away, at which dls-r tance Its light is almost comparable to that ox a barely visible nebula. Prof. Boys' expert menu fully confirm the inferenco drawn from earlier observations, that the heat of the rnoom does not accumulate br penetrating beneath her surface: it lasts only from moment to momens as snpplied by the sun. A MACHINE b-s Deeu designed for making oncks and tiles on tbe semi-dry process. The clay or material to be formed into bricks is fed into a hopper Into a loose and granulated state. The brick Is delivered as the charger returns to refill tbe empty mold. Each brick receives fonr distinct presses, whereby tbe air is thor. onghlr expressed. All tbe labor requireu it one man to tip tbe clay into the grinding pan. and ono boy to tako off tbe bricks as the ma chine delivers them. Among the various pnr poses for which this machine is employed, be. sides brick and tile making, are the forming of purple ore, or "blue billv," into briquettes for the smelting furnace, tbe formlofc of nickel oxide Into cakes for the assaying furnace, tha forming of dry cement compound into blocks ready for clinkering and the pressing of coal and coke briquettes. In his accounts of experiments against tha apple or coddling moth, Prof. S. A, Forbes, State Entomologist of Illinois, states that "tha result of once or twice spraying with parts green in early spring, before the young apples had formed upon their stems, resulted in sav Ine about 75 per cent of tbe apples exposed to injury by tbe coddling moth." Experiments made by tbe Ohio Agricultural Experiment Station for two seasons on various varieties of cherry trees and plnm trees have shown that by the use ot two or three applications of arsen ites in water in tbe proportion of one ounce to ten gallons of water, about three-fourths of the trees liable to be Injured by the plum cur. cullo can be saved when a fair amount of frnla is set: and that If an interval of a month or more occurs between the last application and the ripening, no danger may be apprehended from its no. It was also found that spraying with arsenites is cheaper and more practical than any other existing motbod. Iris not generally known that an entirely distinct school of glass working has sprang op In this country, which Is accomplishing tha most wonderful results. To such a hizh stata has this artistic taste been developed tbas prices are paid for single windows to-day la private houses which would have seemed fabulous ten vears ago. Three thousand dollars) Is considered by no means an extraordinary price. For beauty, realism and magnlficens coloring these high-class windows excel any. thing that has ever been seen. The life which, is wanting in evon tbe greatest paintings IS possible of realization In glass, where light is ever at work behind tbe picture to Infuse is with motion, color and feelins;. The figure that I can be only represented in the act of walking in canvas pictures can be actually made to move when tbe sunlight plavs on it through tha crystal of tbe stained window. Some of tha modern pictures, consisting of many thousauds of pieces of glass, are joined together with snch deft skill by clever leading that tbe lines of tho designs are presented in as perfect and un, broken a manner as they were in the artist's, drawing. 'W fi PHICES. CO., mhUa 25 ft ,Wl.4..l' jauBsifissa
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers