20
FANCIES FOR THE FAIR.
Spring Fashions at Borne and Abroad
The Hats to Be Worn In London Some
of the Novelties Gowns for Debutante
and Belle.
Hats I exclaims & London correspondent
of The Dispatch In a letter received lust
week. TTn
hill, down
dale, and
round the
corner! Far
and wide
they spread,
laden with
the fruits of
the earth
and the
birds of the
air I Why
should the
crowns of
our heads he
made to de
scribe an
an gle of
Tiimmcd in Gill Galloon. 45O 7 Why
should we measure a good 20 inches from
the napes of our necks to the tip-topest
polar regions of onr heads? Heaven
knows! These are questions that eTen the
oracular "p'liceman" cannot answer. One
pretty little hat, of rough light gray straw,
was of the most "up-hill" description, and
had softly coiled and knotted crepe scarves
coming from tbe turned-over brim at the
back, of the most delicate shades of
amber, pale gray and soft lilac This trim
ming was held in place by silver pins, en
crusted with pale yellow transparent stones,
and the effect was charmingly "springv"
and pretty. A queer bit of a head covering
wis composed of a band of cocks' feathers,
springing from a coil of orange velvet.
A Hat of the Season.
sharply curving toward where the crown ot
a bonnet is usually worn, but where, in thti
instance, it was absent. At the back was
jn aigrette of black and gold, while orange
velvet strings were crossed at the back aud
tied under the chin. A great big
hat was almost of the "poke" shape,
f fine black chip, turned up very
much at the back, and trimmed with quan
tities of "baby-blue" narrow velvet riboons
bunched in bows on the back, and the low
rrott n. Tbe "face" of the brim had a count
less number ot narrow little frills of hne
black lace, aud resting on the hair on the
left side was a sweet little rosette of the
lainty blue vclveU Another nice bat was
of mixed black and yellow stnw, in shape
most indeterminate and indescribable. It
betran life on the right side as a shady, useful-looking
head covering, but on reaching
the left side, rather to the front, it seemed to
break its resolution and fell into a doz:n
little upstanding curves aud crease, held
in place by delicate jet pins, over which
tumbled feathers matching the straw of
black and yellow. Broad strings of soft
eliow siik, shot with black, were brought
ironi the "crumpled" back, and intended to
tie under the chin with a big full bow. By
tne way, strings 00 large hats are very broad
ami sou, ditto on tiny bonnets are very nar
row and stiff.
A vegetarian of stern principles might
prnclain. her creed to ihs world by w;ann
n binnet I shall trv to describe to you. The
loundation w..s of silver wire, and over it
was drawn soft pieen gauze in faithful rep
resentation ol an exaggerated lettuce leaf.
The veining of tne leal was faithfully fol
lowed by delicate silver thread, the gentle
undulations nf the succulent vegetable be
li'g prettily outlined by the same silvery
ciging. At the back was a 1-irge loop of
silver ribbons witu tiny little flies embroid
ered on them with an aigrette of fine black
and green .cathers rising from its daintr
bed. Tne "strings" were only a cord of
minted green and silver, aud were tied in a
tiny bow close to the ieft ear. A fine black
gauze veil witn silver flies was to be sold
with this bonnet, and really the effect was
not outraeeous but most delicately lovely
though a little conspicuous.
3Iost charming gold
of netwotk of gold,
introd u ced
for evening
belts made of a sort
have of lata been
wear, especi
ally with
light silk,
or crepe
do Chine
dresses, siys
The Season.
l heir ela- .
. . . vs..
ticitv makes 'v
them sit well sj
to the wear
er's fisrure.
They are equally elegant when worn with a
black silk or soft woolen robe. Another
novelty is a brooch shaped like a key. It
mar be used not only as fastening for the
collar, but also as belt clasp and hat orna
ment. A charming evening gown, writes Bet
tina in her London fashion letter to THE
Dispatch, was worn by such a pretty little
dark-haired debutante at a "Cinderella"
dreadful form ot entertainmentl the other
evening. A full bebe bodice of white 'crepe
d'ete was belted in at the waist with broad
bows and ends of saffron ribbon, with a de
sign of white violets, with their leave
sUmncd on it. Thf skirt was full and plain
f w
ji
jpimmiMm?
Mz&mmsmtm
UtirfVi.'R IM&: rrzJZ
?2!ttJww,xtfzus?
ZSv-'XtV"
and also of crepe, and was lifted at one'side
to show an under petticoat of saffron-hued
silk, with a ruche of white violets all round
it This under petticoat was slightly trail
ing, so that the violets did not "hide their
fragrance" under the foamy overskirt.
Bunches of white violets, tied with saffron
ttiii1
ribbon, were on each shoulder and on the
middle of the corsage. A wreath of the
same delicate flowers, with a tiny bow of
ribbon, rested on the dark hair. Long white
suede gloves and a fan of saffron-coloured
gauze with ivorv sticks. A huge bunch ot
white violets was tied to the sticks with
saffron ribbon, which formed a loop so that
the fan could be carried on the wrist. The
accompanying illustration of a tea-gown of
challie.made in princess style, with aplaited
flaring collar, close sleeves, draped front and
knife-plated ruffle In jabots up the fronts of
China silk. The drapery at the top of the
sleeves is of the challie, edged with the
knife-plaiting of silk.
The accompanying illustration is of a
wrap of lace and ribbon made up over a
thin silk foundation. The back forms a Y
ot lace in plaits, with ribbon bretelles on
either side ending
in a tiny fan below
tbe waist, edged
with lacewhich ex
tends to the front
and continues as a
double jabot to the
erect neck frill.
The handaome
edgedribbon forms
bretelles ending in
loops and ends be
low. The sleeves
are of wider lace
puffed on the
shoulders and
strapped with the
ribbon. The loung
ing coat, or
' smoker, "has
given its neglige
cut to nianyof the
new garment s ,
probably i n t ro
il need through the
Bedford cordas the
material first gain
ed popular atten
tion in this style
ol jacket. Button
ed coats are seen
finished down the
buttonhole side
of the lront with
deep scallops out
lined with gold
braid. Buttons
like flattened balls
are made of pearl.
Borders 01 graduated cabochans are showy.
Feather ruches and border edges, and those of
silk "feathers," are depended upon. Jewels
are almost as plentiful on coats as on
mantles. Hand embroidery is on silk
wraps. Cardinal surah is a favorite lining.
The black silk capes and coats will be found
convenient in being suitable for wear with
all dresses, and the coat suits specially de
sirable for the promenade in rendering a
wrap unnecessary.
Tailor-made gowns still assert their as
cendancy for rougn "walking wear" in
London, but it is to be questioned
whether the latest additions of gold and
silver embroidery on skirts and jackets is
an improvement. Such brilliant garni
ture seems a little out of place on a
gown that is meant for every-day use, and
it should be used, therefore, sparingly, and
in most cases entirely eschewed. "Golden
slippers," continues Bettica, are no longer
"good style." Silvered foot wear, with
bows of silver gauze studded with opaline
beads, are correct onlr with a thin white
dress; otherwise the material of the shoes
must match the gown. Square-toed, high
Reeled, paste-buckled shoex-are correct only
with the Louis QuitWcoati. Very Pointed
;nE?r23 ft3 a
Wffl&i&tMiwmm
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Bill r H I A i.
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lis f L
JL Monte Govm by Worth.
THE
toeiand high insteps "go" with trianon
paniers, and black velvet slippers with little
paste or rhine-stone buckles on the toes are
the things for neutral-tinted dinner gowns.
The blazer seemi to hare taken a new de
parture in that it opens the season in such
elaborate guise, or disguise, ai almost to
prevent its recognition.
v t a reeeSt inburban wedding, sayi the
27er York Times, the bride wore a wreath
of myrtle in lieu of the traditional orange
flowers. Her bouquet was of white hya
cinth", wtfich, after bestowing a stem upon
each groomsman, she duly threw back into
the ball, where six bridemaids and her maid
of honor eagerly contested for its possession.
The groom belonged to the navy, and his
groomsmen were gorgeons in gold lace and
glittering buttons, an effect of yellow and
black which was paraphrased by the yellow
and white of the bridemaids toilets. These
young women carried bunches of yellow
daffodils and wore gold shoes, which, with
their gowns ot white chiffon, made them
striking pictures. The chancel and altar
were banked with yellow and white bloom
all of which, since yellow has ever been ac
cepted bs the hue of the forsaken, shows the
bride to be quite above notions.
The Vienna "Housewives' Society,"
which was started about seven years ago,
and since then has taught the noble art of
good housekeeping to 1,281 girls, partly
orphans preparing for matrimonial duties,
and the rest girls going out to service, has
taken a now departure, and beginning trith
the middle of next month proposes to give a
course of instruction to nursemaids and
governesses. The girls will be tanght to set
an untidy room straight in the least possible
time, to wash and dress children thoroughly,
and to treat children's hair from a hygienio
standpoint. Furthermore, they must learn
to mend children's clothes, and also all
kinds of games and amusements, and no girl
will receive a certificate without pasting an
examination in general proficiency.
TWENTY CENTS A DAY.
A Hearty Laboring Man's Food Should Cost
Him No Mote Money Wasted In Fuel
and Bad Cooking How to Make Sally
lawn Other Recipes.
IWKITTEN FOB THE DISPATCH. 3
In a recent lecture Edwin Atkinson
stated that with nine-tenths of the people
the cost of maintaining life exceeds half the
income. The came of this is, in many in
stances, waste of fuel and improperly
cooked food. Mr. Atkinson showed that
with the improved culinary appliances,
which are fortunately becoming daily better
known, the cost of feeding anybody would
range from SO cents a day for a hard-working
man to 12)4 cents a day for a woman
doing very light work.
The "Aladdin" stove, by which Mr. At
kinson accomplished these wonderful re
sults, is simply an iron box, about 18 inches
long by 14 in height and width. It is in
closed in a case made of wood pulp. Under
it is an ordinary lamp burning about a
quart of kerosene oil in eight hours. All
the heat is retained in the oven, and it is
never higher than about 360. There is
absolutely no smell, and the food is cooked
without distilling tbe juices or dessicating
the solids. "With this oven, all there is to
do is to put in the food,, and the lamp does
the rest. No attention whatever is required.
With it anyone can cook, and cook well.
In addition to the Aladdin oven, Mr. At
kinson has, invented a workman's dinner
pail, in which a dinner of two courses can
be carried to the workshop and cooked over
an ordinary lamp during tbo morning ready
for consumption at the noon hour.
A reader cf The Dispatch asks for a
recipe for Sally Lunn. I give below two re
liable recipes for this favorite cake, so often
found on the Southern breakfast tablet
Sally Lnnn No. 1.
Sift into one quart of flour two teaspoon! uls
of baking powder, and add to it a scant half
enpful of butter and two tablespoonfnls of
sugar creamed together. Stir In a pint of milk
and two beaten eggs; add a little salt, mix well
and bake In two round pang until light brown.
When about to serve tear in pieces do not cut.
Sally Lnnn No. 3.
Elft together one pint of flour, two teaspoon
fuls of baking powder and one-half teaspoonful
of salt. Beat two eggs, whites and yelks sep
arately. To the yelks add ono-balf cupful of
sweet milk. Stir slowly into the flour, and pour
in one-half cupful of melted butter. Add
whites of egg3 last. Bake in gem pans, two
tblrds fall.
Following are some reliable general reci
pes: Custard Pudding.
One quart of milk, four eggs, a pinch of salt,
four tablespoonfnls of sugar, a grating of nut
meg. Bake In a greased pudding dish until
solid, and remove from the oven before It cur
dles. Biscuit Padding.
Beat up the yelks of four egg!, add the
whites beaten stiff, a pint of milk, sntrar and
flavor to taste. Put biscuit in this mixture and
when well soaked, remove, drain and set in tbe
oven to brown, after spreading with butter and
strewing with currants.
Steam Budding.
An excellent cup pudding is made after the
following recipe: Beat to a light ceam a tea
cupful of butter and two tablespoonfnls of
sugar. Add two eggs, the yelks and whites
beaten separately, on coffee cup of milk, two
coffee cups nf.sified flour, one cupful of raisins
or currants (properly prepared) well floured,,
and three level tablespoonfnls of baking pow
der, silted in last. Steam In cups 'or glasses,
half filled, for one hour. Should any pudding
be left over I doubt it set it in the steamer
the next day for S3 minutes. Serve with sauce
or cream.
Molasses Cake.
One cupful dark molasses, one-half enpful
butter, one level teaspoon soda, and ginger to
taste. Cream the butter, idd other ingredients,
and beat until foamy. Add one-half cupful of
boiling water, two cupf uls of flour and one egg.
Bake in a brisk oven.
Bice Fritters.
Steam a quarter of a pound of rice in milk
until tender. Add a pint of milk, two beaten
eges, a capful of sugar, a pinch of salt, a little
cinnamon and flour enouzn to make a rather
stiff batter. Fry in thin cakes and serve with
butter and sugar.
ESC Sponge for Sonp.
Mix together the yelk of ono egg, a teaspoon
ful of flour, and a pinch of salt. Add tbe white
of ege. beaten stiff, mix gently and pour on
top the soup. Turn in a few minutes, separate
and pour into tbe tureen with the soup.
Eggs and Bacon.
Cut some bacon very thin, and put into a fry
ing pan with a little butter or drippings. Put
In the bacon, and when fried on one side turn
over and break an egg on each piece. When
tbe e2gs are set put tbe cake slice (or turner)
under tbe bacon and remove gently to the plat
ter, which should be warm.
Eggs With Sauce.
Boil four eggs ten minutes and throw into
cold water. Peel and slice thin one onion and
fry white in a tablespoonful of butter. Adda
teaspoonfnl ot flour, mix well, add a half pint
of milk and season with salt and pepper. Sim
mer tbe sauce for a few minutes and put In tbe
eggs cut into six pieces each, crosswise. Toss
them gently until heated and serve on toast.
Codfish frith Cheese.
Cover a piece of salt codfish with plenty of
water and let stand over night, in the morn
ine shred it, removing skin and bone. Thicken
a cupful ot boiling milk with a tablespoonful of
flour, and the same quantity of butter, rubbnd
together. Turn In the codfish, stir until heated,
and then pour into a greased Daking dish.
Strew with grated cheese and bake brown.
Berry Padding.
Sift together a pint of flower, one-half tea
spoonful of salt, and two teaspoonfuls of bak
ing powder. Beat up two eggs, add a cup of
milk, two tablespoonfnls of melted butter and a
pint of berries. Mix with the flour and boll or
steam for one hour.
Good Pastry.
One cupful of lard and butter mixed, three
cupf uls ot flour and a level teaspoonful of salr.
Sift flour and salt, and chop in tbe shortening,
which should be cold and firm. Blend with a
little ice water, and handle as little as possible.
Boll the paste from yon
Stewed Cabbage.
Shave the cabbage fine, cover with plenty of
boiling water, and Keep boiling steadily for SO
minutes. Brain, season with salt, pepper and
butter. Add a little cream and dredge of flour.
Eilice Serena.
Will call at your residence with samples
and furnish estimates on furniture reuphols
tery. Haugh & Keexax, 33 Water street.
0 . u
PETTSBURG- DISPATCH.
HOW TO GET MARRIED
Mrs. John Slicrwood Describes llie
' Customs in Polite Society.
A PROPER WEDDING IN ENGLAND.
Announcing- the Engagement, the Invita
tions and the Ceremony. '
BRIDEMAIDS AND THE IIO.NEXMOON
rwRtrrzir ron the dhpA.tch.1
Bice and slippers, slippers and ricel
Quaint old symbols of all that's nice
In a world made up of sugar and spice.
With a honeymoon always shining;
A world where the birds keep house by twos.
And the ring dove calls and the stockdove
cooes,
And maids are many and men may choose
And never shall love go pining.
If there were no weddings there would be
no "art of entertaining." It is the keynote,
the initial letter, the open sesame of the
great business of society. Therefore, cer
tain general and very, perhaps, unnecessary
hints as to the conduot of weddings in all
countries may not be out of place here.
In London a wedding in high life, or as
the Frenoh call it "hilif," is a very sweep
ing affair. If we were to read alone the de
scriptions in the Court Journal of one
wedding troussean furnished to a royal
princess, or to Lady Gertrude Somebody,
we should say with Fielding that "Dress is
the principal accomplishment of men and
women," and as for tbe wedding cake which
is built at Gunter's, it is a sight to see, al
most as big as Mt. Blanc.
Tho Proper Source of Wedding; Cake .
The importance of "Ganter" is assnied
by the Epicure's Almanac, published in
1815, and for many years this firm supplied
the royal iamily. When George III. was
king the royal dukes stopped to eat his
pines in gratitude for the sweet repasts fur
nished them in childhood, but now the Buz
zards of 197 Oxford street also are special
ists for wedding cakes. Leigh Hunt, writ
ing one of his pretty little essays, described
one Trumbull Walker as the""artist who
confined himself to that denomination,"
meaning wedding cake. His mantle fell on
the Buzzards.
This enormous cake and the equally
enormous bouquet are the chief distinctive
marks in which a London wedding differs
from ours. To be legal, unless by special
license of the Archbishop of York, wed
dings in England must be celebrated before
12 o'clock. The reason given for this law
is that belore 1820 gentlemen were supposed
to be drunk after that hourand not responsi
ble for their own promise and expression
made at the altar. The wedding breakfast
in England is often a sit-down affair with
speeches. It is not followed in our country
often; perhaps it is well to omit the
speeches.
The Mother Breaks the New.
The first intimation of an engagement
should come from the bride's mother, and
the young bride fixes the day of her wedding
herself. Then tbe father and mother or
guardians of the young lady issue cards,
naming the day and hour of the wedding.
Brides often give the attendant maidens
their dresses, or if they do not do this, they
suggest what they shall wear. Tbe groom
gives the bridemaids lockets, bracelets or
rings, and presents each of his ushers with
scarf pins or studs, something by which he
shall remember the day. The fashion of
groomsmen has passed away, and the happy
man is only attended by a "best man," one
friend at' the altar who holds his hat
and otherwise sustains him. The
bridemaids still hold their own, al
though q pretty fashion has been intro
duced of a "lady of honor," who
precedes the bridal procession into the
church. Six ushers generally precede the
party into the church, after having seated
the guests. These are generally followed
by six bridemaids who walk two and two.
No one wears a veil but the bride herselt,
who enters on her father's arm. The bridal
dress is of white with long train; the veil, of
tulle or real lace, must be fastened with
orange blossoms. But all this may be
varied if the bride chooses, and a traveling
dress and bonnet substituted. Young
widows who marry a second time must not
wear white or veils.
What the French Complain Of.
The fact that the bride is in white satin
and often with low neck and short sleeves,
nnd the groom in full morning costume, is
much criticised in France.
The invitations to the wedding are very
simple and explicit:
; MB. AND MRS. CHAPMAN :
request the pleasure of your comany :
; at the marriage of their daughter :
: Esclaiumode
: :
: to :
Mb. Gerald Fitz Gerald,
: :
: on :
: Thursday, June 16. at 12 o'clock. :
: St. Peter's Church. :
Another card is inclosed to those who are
asked to the reception.
After these cards are out the fiancee must
not appear at the opera, the theater or balls.
In asking a young lady to be her bride
maid the bride is supposed to be actuated by
feelings of relationship or friendship, al
though fashion and wealth and other con
siderations often influence these invitations.
Each bridemaid is expected to give a band
some present. The groom asks men of his
own ago and of his intimate acquaintances.
They most be unmarried men, and are ex
pected to manage all matters at the church.
Music should play softly throucb the pre
paratory entrance of the family. The mother
of the bride and her nearest relatives pre
cede her into the church and arc seated be
lore she enter?, unless the mother be a widow
and give the bride away, a very touching
and beautiful ceremony.
Cold and Ceremonies.
After the ceremony, which should be con-'
ducted with great dignity and composure on
all sides, for exhibitions of feeling in public
are in tbe worst possible taste, the officiating
clergyman shakes hands with tbe young
couple and congratulates them. The bride
takes her husband's right arm and they walk
down the broad aisle without recognizing
anyone in the church to their carriage at the
door, followed by the bridesmaids, the ushers,
the family, and drive home to stand under a
floral bell and to be congratulated.
The bride's mother yields her place as
hostess for the nonce, and is addressed after
the bride. After two hours of receiving the
bride retires to change her dress lor a travel
in? auiLwhtah mav be of any color but black.
1 Mrs. John Sherwood.
SUNDAY; APRIL 19
She comes down with her mother and sisters,
meets the groom in tbe ball, and dispenses
the flowers of her bouquet to the smiling
maidens, each of whom, struggles for a
flower. Then occurs the farewell, a scene
of mingled tears and smiles. The horses
and driver and footman of the carriage
which is to drive the happy pair for the
honeymoou are all dressed with white favors
and flowers, and at they driye off rice ia
thrown after them and an old slipper.
In England the happy pair spends the
honeymoon at some house, a friend's house
presumably lent for the occasion. However,
in this land of comfortable hotels, an agree
able and quiet apartment can always be
secured. v
Tho Bride's Receiving Days.
After returning to her home the bride
should advise her friends by card of the
days on which she will receive them. To
persons not invited to tbe wedding the par
ents of the bride send announcement cards.
Dinners to the young pair succeed each
other in rapid succession. For the first
three months after the art of entertainment
is stretched to its uttermost.
If the wedding occurs in the evening
then the groom must wear the dress coat
and white tie.
If it is to be celebrated at home, the space
where the hndal partv is to stand is usually
marked off by a ribbon. The clergyman
comes down in his robes before the bridal
pair, they face him and he faces the com
pany. Hassocks are prepared for them to kneel
upon. After the ceremony the clergyman
retires from his coigne of vantage, and the
bridal party takes his place, standing to re
ceive their friends' congratulations. Should
there be dancing at a wedding, and it is not
a bad old custom, particularly in the coun
try, the bride must open the first quadrille,
dancing with the best man, while the groom
takes out the first bridesmaid.
As for showing the wedding gifts, that
must be left to individual taste. No friend
should be deterred from sending a small
present, one not representing a money value,
because other and richer people can send a
more expensive gift. Often the humble of
fering is a much more and enduring souve
nir. Any gift which betokens a long and
predetermined interest in the bride is the
most flattering.
Ostentation of Gift Giving.
The custom of giving bridal gifts has be
come an outrageous abuse of a good thing.
From being a very pretty custom, one which
had as its base the good reason of helping
the young couple to begin housekeeping,
which is still observed in Holland aud the
North, by presents of bed and table linen
and the necessary furniture of the house, it
has become but another form of ostentation.
There gets to be a rivalry between the
families; the publicity of the whole thing,
the notoriety and extravagance, could well
be rebuked.
The wedding breakfast in America is a
stand-up affair, and it is proper to serve
every delicacy, such as salads of chicken
and lobster, boned and truffled turkey and
pheasants, pati of game, cold partridge, pate
de foie gras, terrapin and oysters, ices,
creams, jellies and fruits, champagne, claret
and punch.
The bride sometimes cuts the cake and
allows the young people to search for a
ring.
The prettiest wedding is one in Jane at a
country house, particularly if the bride can
walk to church over flowers and under the
blossoming trees. Tbe massing of a single
flower, the yellow daffodil or the pink and
white apple blossom, is a very good idea.
Remembering the Domestics.
If choir boys could sing a wedding choral
outside the windows it would be a happy
thought, and it is a pleasant feature of a
country wedding that the laithful domestics
who have loved the bride from childhood
can assist. In England they count on each
wearing a favor made by the bride herself.
The cook, the maid, the nurses and the men
servants in England always expect a wed
ding favor and a small gratuity, and in this
country all expect a box of wedding cake.
At acountry wedding, if the day is fine,
little tables are set out on the' lawn. The
ladies seat themselves around, the gentlemen
carry refreshments to them. The piazzas
can be decorated with autumn boughs, ever
greens and flower;, the whole thing becomes
a garden party, and even the familv dogs
should have a wreath of white flowers
around their food old necks. Many brides
of to-day leave the bouquet at borne, and
carry an Ivory prayer book to church. The
term honeymoon is derived from the Ger
man, who drank metheglin, a beverage
made of honey, for 30 days after tbe wed
ding. The bude cake is not so universally
sent about as formerly, but still one finds
the little narrow box of cake near the door
for each to tuke.
Bettor Cling to the Ring.
As the ring is the expressive emblem of
tbe perpetuity of the comp.ict, and as the
bride cake and libations form significant
symbols of the nectar sweets of matrimony,
it will not do to banish the cake altogether,
although few people eat it and few wish to
carry it awjy.
Brides should send their future address, if
possible, with the wedding cards, else if one
is invited only to a church wedding, no one
knows when or where to call. It is a con
venient and pleas int custom for the bridal
pair to send out after their marriage cards,
having the date of two or more reception
davs at their new residence.
Quiet weddings either at home or in
church are very much preferred by some
families. The bride is married in traveling
dress and bonnet, and drives off in the
groom's carriage from a quiet wedding to
the honeymoon. People with a large ac
quaintance cannot always invite all their
Iriends, of course, to a weddiug reception,
therefore only ask them to the church.
These invitations require no answer, but
peopla being at a distance, who cannot at
tend tbe wedding, should send their cards
by mail to assure their hosts that the invi
tation has been received. Much ill feeling
is apt to be engendered by the distinction
which is inevitably made in leaving out the
friends who leel that they were entitled to
an invitttion to the house. It is better to
offend no one on to impoitant an occasion.
The Wedding Stationery.
Wedding cards and wedding stationery
shonld be simple, white without glaze, and
with no ornamentation at all. It is proper
for the bride to have her left hand bare as
she walks to tho altar, as it eaves her tbe
trouble of taking oft a long glove. Child
bridemaids are very pretty and very much
iu favor. These charming children, cov
ered with flowers, looking very grave and
solemn, ure the sweetest of heralds for a
wedding procession.
It is very troublesome to be ninrrd in
Fratice, especially if one of the high con
tracting parties be a foreigner. A certificate
of baptism is required, together with that
of the marriage 01 the father and mother
and a written consent of the grandfather
aud grandmother, it either is alive and
the parents dead. The names of the parties
are then put up on the door of the Mairie or
Mayor's office for 11 days.
Getting Married in England.
In England there are four ways of getting
married. The first is by special license,
which costs 50, There is then the ordinary
license, which can be procured cither at
doctor's commons or through a clergyman,
who must also be a surrogate and resident of
the diocese where the marriage is to tuke
place. Both the parties must swear that
they are of aee, or if minors that
they have the consent of their parent".
But to be married by banns is considered
the most orthodox as well as most economi
cal way of proceeding. The banns must be
published in the church of the parish in
which the lady lives for three consecutive
Sundays prior to the marriage; also the
same law holds good for tbe gentleman, mid
the parties must have resided 1C days in the
parish, or the knot may be tied in a licensed
chapel or at the office of a registrar, notice
being given three weeks previously.
As tbe business of getting married is more
lenient than it is in France and England so
is tbe liberty allowed to an engaged pair
greater than it is abroad. In England no
young girl is allowed to dine alone with her
fiance. There must be a servant in attend
ance. Nor is she allowed to co to the
theater alone with him, or travel under his
escort, or stop at the same hotel, or relax
any of those rigid rules which a Spanish
duenna would en'orce.
"VI. 33. W Simatvoon.
1391
INDEPENDENT WOMEN
Have Great Difficulty in Finding
Living Accommodations.
TEIBULATIONS OF HOTEL LIFE.
Tbe Appointments of a Garden Spot in the
Oasis of New York
A CHANCE F0K THE CAPITALISTS
IWKITTEN FOE THX DISPATOlI.l
Educated sensibilities are not without
their sufferings. With this introduction I
leave you to the reading of the following
letter which bears a New York date, pre
mising, however, that all its statements are
the barest fact, as most women will know
without question:
"As women come to confession to you, al
low one of the homeless to pour her story
into your ear, I freely own to you that I
am one of the homeless, not far from starv
ing, though no Board of Charity would ever
admit me to its bounty or class me in tbe list
of deserving or undeserving poor. My in
come, every dollar of which 1 earn by the
sweat of my brow, or my brain, is sufficient
for all the comforts and some of the taste
ful things of life, at least it would be if the
city afforded me and such as me anything
like a home. Business compels my presence
in the city, moreover my health, just begin
ning to wear, demands baths and treatment
not to be found outside of it, otherwise I bad
rather work in a Hoboken market garden or
FeterjHenderson's greenhouses than live in
town.
In HIgh-Toned Iionellness.
"I usually begin my city sojourn in one
of the uptown hotels, where cleanliness and
quiet are domiciled, but SI a day for the
comforts of a bedroom 10 by 11 and water
hygienically frozen in the decanter, three
stories over the heads of several millionaires'
families, does not exactly suit an artist's re
sources. A week of this high-toned loneli
ness usually sends me to one of the lower
priced hotels, where my friends have been
in the habit of stopping tho last quarter of a
century.
"No longer m the highway of fashion and
business, these houses begin to show wear
and hardly keep up to their reputation.
Tbe restaurant will be good, but the rooms
show sad want of housekeeping. I should
not mind the threadbare Brussels so much
if it were only.clean; the water bugs under
the washstand rather dismay a nervous per
son, while the sewer gas and tbe leaking
gas fixtures disturb the mind of the educated
one. I never turn down the sheet, prefer
ring to leave the mattress to imagination;
blankets I can't help seeing sometimes, and
they are enough to spoil a woman's rest.
Might Profit by Continental Example.
"Will our hotels ever attain the conti
nental refinement of bare polished floors,
with a washable rug at the bedside and slip
covers for the mattresse3, or will they ever
have the common sense to adopt the sponge
siltc blankets, which can be washed more
easily than the sheets? I freely own that it
is difficult to keep bedding clean after
promiscuous travelers who turn in with tbe
grime of a week's travel about them or go to
bed in their boots next the blankets. But
this does not m ake it any more agreeable
for a woman to occupy the room after them.
"Add to this the necessity for wearing a
severely scrupulous visage outside your own
room lest some half-bred man should read
general invitation in your glance, tbe cease
less suspicions surveillance of servants, and
tbe position is sufficiently removed from
comlort. It was in no second-class house,
but one of the choicest and most scrupu
lously kept of high-priced family hotels
that a friend of mine had a bad fright. De
tained 'in New York over night on business,
she was awakened in the'small honrs by a
racket at the lock, and the immediate
presence in her bedroom of a hall boy and
a traveler with his lugeage. The porter had
blundered, thinking the room vacant, and
the lock was out of order, hence the in
vasion, which was followed by pungent re
buke from tbe lady and a demand for
another room whose door would stay locked,
to which she had her things removed iu the
middle of the night.
Things the Lone Woman Bears.
''This is an exceptional experience proba
bly. It is more common to be kept awake
by a neighbor who retires at 2 A. M. in high
spirits, having taken more than was good
for him, and converses in a key clearly
audible aud speech which leads to a speedy
closing of near" transoms. A honeymoon
squabble is hardly less obnoxious, and the
conversation of two business men over a pa
tent or a sharp trade is equally uninterest
ing. Tbe entertainment is varied by the
political suppers of ward clubs, at which the
singing is as bad as the wine, and prevents
sleep on several floors long past the smallest
of the hours.
"Tired of such amenities I used to hurry
into a boarding house, taking tho lists of
the Sunday papers. It would require a
longer letter to recount the drawbacks of
boarding, which, I think, combines ail tbe
miseries of file with greater success than
any other civilized form of existence. Be
tween poor food, and too little of it, and bad
air from ingenious mismanagement, I have
nearly lost my health. Of tbe risks in
volved socially, of the spiritualistic and
faith cure humbugs, the prying suffrage
cranks, the highly dressed adventuresses one
meets in the average boarding house I will
speak some other time.
First Impression Favorable.
"But, taking my fate in my hand, I asked
for a boarding house bureau which used to
exist on Union square It had closed, as all
such conveniences do, after a year's trial,
but I would find a 'bureau' for ladies nut far
west of Broadway. There, in the rain, I be
took myself.
"That the house was respectable in ap
pearance was a gratifying surprise; that it
was clean, bright and tastefully appointed
within was a greater. A page in buttons
opened the door; a cheerful drawing-room,
decorated in white and gold, was charmingly
warm that raw spring day, and light, easy
chairs in place of tb.6 regulation stuffed
lumiture, drawn about a table of late papers
and magazines does not this sound pleas
ant, my homeless sister? It is some sign of
progress that New York holds the nucleus
of a woman's hotel, where women of inde
pendent income can find comfort, at tolera
ble prices. Transient lady guests engaging
rooms are met at the train by a most gentle
manly escort, who sees to their baggage.
Their comfortable, Jresii rooms have nil the
privacy nf home, as none but their own sex
are admitted as lodgers, while at the same
time they are tree to receive gentlemen's
visits in the parlors as they would be at
their own houses, and go to theater or con
cert evenings, 'Ure that some one will be up
to admit them without a frown if they are
out later than 10 o'clock.
Freedom ol a TTell-Brcd Home.
"There is no schedule ol rules to fetter
every motion, as il women were not to be
trusted outside 0' a cage of Iron network,
but the freedom uf a well-bred borne is ac
corded each visitor. Il a lady wants to sec
New York independently her tickets are
taken for Sara Bernhardt or any entertain
ment, and a kindly .chaperon provided lor
the evening, or for the daily visits to shops
and galleries.
"Il she wants a dressmaker, a dentist or a
doctor, she is directed to the best. If her
special Reginald or Gustavns wishes to
spend an evening with her he is tint frowned
upon jUy a suspicious duenna, but tho couple
are put in possession of the cosy back parlor,
which no occasions is engaged lor ladies'
lunch parties or small dinners. The draw
iue room floor is nlteii t)tKen afternoons for
luilies club meetings, classes or lectures, to
that there is something constantly' going on
iu the house.
, "Indeed, college girls -have no livelier
times thau the brisk business and pro
fessional women who find themselves well
met under the friendly roof, which I will
only call 'The Bureau.' The chill, the
espionage nnd repression which are the
habit of women's uociatioB do not belong.
here.they are chased away by the courteous,
kindly spirit of well-bred womeu of the
world.
Instances of Club arrowness.
"It does seem as if some of the women's
associations and clubs modeled themselves
on strictest conventional patterns. Onr
lady came over from a very exclusive club,
whose members were all society people,
carefully culled from the finest circles, hurt
and indignant that her own nephew had
been refused permission to call and take
her to the theater, and another matron was
not allowed to hive herown son come to her
room, whiie the two ladies were down from
their country homes. What possible good
is to be gained from such exclusions? The
Phariseeisui of some women reaches imbe
cility, and credits neither their minds nor
their morals. It is curious to imagine on
what possible grounds a club can be run,
whose members pay a liberal price for every
accommodation, but are refused the visits of
their nearest relatives.
"It is delightful to have some degree of
privilege and independence, in virtue of
one's womanhood, to enter a house where
women have the first right and considera
tion, where the large, comfortable rooms are
consecrated to feminine bactelors, together
with tbe best that a most efficient house
keeper, manager and steward can do for
scrupulous care and nicety. I would not
exclude men from any good thing, yet there
was a sense of even-handed justice when the
editor of a leading literary magazine, ap
plying for rooms with his wife, had to be
denied on account of being a man.
Tho Feminine Bachelor's Bights.
"There are so many houses which have no
room for women. The sense of protected
privacy, of correct surroundings, is price
less to a woman, and minor things about tbe
place add greatly to its attractiveness.
"Tbe shining baths and large, light bath
rooms, perfectly aired and fresh with tbe
sweet garden fragrance of fine germicides
Instead of the close, intolerable odors usual
on the landings; the scrupulously kept res
taurant, whose tasteful china and dainty
service speak feminine appropriation, are
the more grateful to womanly sent.es than
words can tell. That the stronger sex ap
preciates them is evident by the promptness
of gentlemen to avail themselves of the
snug, prettv restaurant on the lower floor.
"There is one drawback to the place it is
not large enough to take one-tenth the peo
ple who would be glad to fill such a bright,
tasteful, well-kept place the year round.
Booms are taken a week in advance, and
women share the large, double-bedded rooms
with strangers rather than see sister women
sent away without the comforts of the house.
"I write of this to let women through the
country know what nice quarters they can
find if they wish to take a nice little rnn
alone to the city, without belonging to an
expensive, exclusive ladies' club or joining
tbe lists with working women. It is a be
ginning only of what might and ought to be
done, but a very successful one.
Doing Good With Capital.
"The affair is started by a list of lady
stockholders, comprising names well known
is every sense of the word, and they expect
ample returns on the investment. Here is
the chance dear to the heart of the public
minded investor of doing good with capital
at 10 to 15 per cent profit. Tbe profits are
so sure that a wealthy man offered the orig
inator of the scheme $10,000 on her own
note to enlarge the business, provided it
could be taken out of the hands of women
stockholders, whom business men have ob
jects against joining.
"Tbe capitalist who will open a ladies'
hotel of ample accommodations for the in
dependent class of women and carry it on as
it should be, with as competent manage
ment as the single house of the Visitors'
Bureau, will strike the success of the year,
and as they pay their dollars into his hand
women will call bim benefactor.
"Tourists who find themselves afloat in the
city from tbe other side of the Atlantic,
brisk Western women, on for spring shop
ping and sight seeing, head teachers, artista
and professional women would be glad to
know of moderate-priced, inviting quarters,
and it is a neglect of opportunity that they
are not provided. Katheiuxe II."
The types in my last letter divided a sen
tence to the sad contradiction ot the writer's
meaning. "Gretna" wrote that over-massage
started the down on her cheeks when
she "had been rejoicing in its disappearance
after six weeks'use of genuine toilet cerate."
A period after "disappearance" belled the
sense completely, and I fear will cost more
than this explanation to correct,
SniELEx Sabs.
WITH AN TTKSEEli' P0WEB.
A Trick Upon Which It Is Safe to Lay a
Wager Every Time.
On a dry day rub with a brush, or with
tbe hand, a thin piece of paper; it will be
come electrified in a short time, and adhere
to your hand, your face or your coat, as if it
had glue on it, and you will not be able to
get rid of it.
Electrify, in the same manner, a thick
piece of paper, a postal card, for example,
and you will see that, as with sealing wax,
glass, sulphur or rosin, this card can attract
Hght bodies (small pieces of .cork, etc.)
Balance a cane on the back of a chair and
wager anyone in the audience that you will
make it fall without touching it, blowing
on it, or moving the chair.
All you need to do, according to the
CitircAman, is to drv the card well before
the fire, rub it vigorously with your sleeve
and put it close to one end of the cane,
which will follow it as iron follows a mag
net, until, having lost its equilibrium, tbe
cane will fall to the floor.
He Wai a Itepabllcan Boy.
New York Herald.l
Irate Father I'll tan your hide,
you
young scampi
Bad Boy (defiantly) You d-d-do and I'll
appeal to Mr. McKinley. Hide's protected,
they is I
STOCK EHMELT Wf . M
FINE WALL PAPER!
AT ALL
541 SV00D ST. 541
Bank of Commerce Building.
DEALERS IN " LINCRUSTA WALTON."
OUR DOCTORS LEAD.-
Wonderful Progress in Practical
Medicine Made in America.
A MACHINE TO WHITE MUSIC
The Glass Workers Have Attained a Dig
Artistic Standard.
DELICATE UEASDfiElIENTS OP HEAT
fFBErAEZD VOR TBZ DISPATCH.
The most important improvements in praor
tical medicine made in the United States
of late years have been in surgery in its;
various branches. This country has led thq
way in tbe ligation of some of the large
arteries, in tbe removal of abdominal
tumors, in the treatment of diseases and in
juries peculiar to women, and of spinal af
fections, as well as deformities of various
kinds. Above all, we were the first to show
the gsaof anaesthetics the most important
advance made during tbe century. In our lata
war we taught Europe how to build, organist
and manage military hospitals and we formed
the best museum in existence for the illustrs
tiou or modern military medicine and surgery.
Our contributions to medical literature hava
been large and valuable, and our Government
possesses the most complete and best working
medical library in tbe world.
Tbe total number of surgical instruments
and appliances patented during tbe past decada
has been about 1,200, tbe patents having been,
in almost all cases, taken out by manufactur
ers. With these may be classed dentists' tools
and apparatus, of which about 500 bave been
patented daring the last 10 years, and in this
field of Invention the United States leads the)
world. Tbe same may be said with regard to
artificial limbs, of which our great war gava
rise to manv varieties. Dr. J. S. Billings, in
speaking of tbe progress of this country in
medicine, surgery and practical sanitation,
says that by far the greater number of the own
ers of panaceas and nostrums are too shrewd to
puDlisn their secrets by patenting their wares,
for they can attain their purposes much better
under the law for registering trade marks and
labels, designs for bottles and packages, and
copyrights or printed matter, which are less
costly and do not reveal tbe arcanum. These
proprietary medicines constitute tbe great
bulk of what tbe public call "patent medK
cines."
Br. Bllllngi says: "I know of but fonr secret
remedies which have been really valuable ad
ditions to tbe resources of practical medicine,
and the composition of all these Is now known.
Most of such remedies bave little value aa
curative agents, and some of them are, pre?
pared and purchased almost exclusively for
immoral or criminal purposes."
Late Science Gossip.
Air admirable mode of opening and closing
fireproof shatters from the outside with water
pressure from the hose nas been Introduced
lnio various fire departments. The device can;
readily and inexpensively be applied to ordi
nary shutters.
A prominent railway journal makes the ex
cellent suggestion that enterprising and pro
gressive manufacturers shonld supply trada
papers to tnelr men at their own expense, hold
ing that tbe Increased efficiency thereby pro
moted would repay them many times over.
A typewriter which will do for mnslo
what the ordinary machine does for speech or
written composition is a need of the a;e- Al
though not devoid of difficulty, the idea is
quite a practical one, tho principal obstacle to
be encountered being the tendency to uncer
tain alignment, when necessarily heavy typa
faces, such as are formed by notes with bar and
ledger lines, have to be employed. The exist
ing methods of either copying music by hand
or setting it up in type are so time-consuming
that any efficient music typewriter would be 4
distinct gain to the musical world.
The degree ot delicacy which ba3 been at
tained in tbe application of tbe radio-micro
meter for the measurement of radiant heat,
viz.: from a candle, a lire, the snn, the moon,
the stars, or anything else which radiates heat
through space, is marvelous. An appreciable)
effect Is producrd on the radio-micrometer by a,
candle placed two miles away, at which dls-r
tance Its light is almost comparable to that ox
a barely visible nebula. Prof. Boys' expert
menu fully confirm the inferenco drawn from
earlier observations, that the heat of the rnoom
does not accumulate br penetrating beneath her
surface: it lasts only from moment to momens
as snpplied by the sun.
A MACHINE b-s Deeu designed for making
oncks and tiles on tbe semi-dry process. The
clay or material to be formed into bricks is fed
into a hopper Into a loose and granulated state.
The brick Is delivered as the charger returns
to refill tbe empty mold. Each brick receives
fonr distinct presses, whereby tbe air is thor.
onghlr expressed. All tbe labor requireu it
one man to tip tbe clay into the grinding pan.
and ono boy to tako off tbe bricks as the ma
chine delivers them. Among the various pnr
poses for which this machine is employed, be.
sides brick and tile making, are the forming of
purple ore, or "blue billv," into briquettes for
the smelting furnace, tbe formlofc of nickel
oxide Into cakes for the assaying furnace, tha
forming of dry cement compound into blocks
ready for clinkering and the pressing of coal
and coke briquettes.
In his accounts of experiments against tha
apple or coddling moth, Prof. S. A, Forbes,
State Entomologist of Illinois, states that "tha
result of once or twice spraying with parts
green in early spring, before the young apples
had formed upon their stems, resulted in sav
Ine about 75 per cent of tbe apples exposed to
injury by tbe coddling moth." Experiments
made by tbe Ohio Agricultural Experiment
Station for two seasons on various varieties of
cherry trees and plnm trees have shown that by
the use ot two or three applications of arsen
ites in water in tbe proportion of one ounce to
ten gallons of water, about three-fourths of
the trees liable to be Injured by the plum cur.
cullo can be saved when a fair amount of frnla
is set: and that If an interval of a month or
more occurs between the last application and
the ripening, no danger may be apprehended
from its no. It was also found that spraying
with arsenites is cheaper and more practical
than any other existing motbod.
Iris not generally known that an entirely
distinct school of glass working has sprang op
In this country, which Is accomplishing tha
most wonderful results. To such a hizh stata
has this artistic taste been developed tbas
prices are paid for single windows to-day la
private houses which would have seemed
fabulous ten vears ago. Three thousand dollars)
Is considered by no means an extraordinary
price. For beauty, realism and magnlficens
coloring these high-class windows excel any.
thing that has ever been seen. The life which,
is wanting in evon tbe greatest paintings IS
possible of realization In glass, where light is
ever at work behind tbe picture to Infuse is
with motion, color and feelins;. The figure that I
can be only represented in the act of walking
in canvas pictures can be actually made to
move when tbe sunlight plavs on it through tha
crystal of tbe stained window. Some of tha
modern pictures, consisting of many thousauds
of pieces of glass, are joined together with snch
deft skill by clever leading that tbe lines of tho
designs are presented in as perfect and un,
broken a manner as they were in the artist's,
drawing.
'W
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