THE PITTSBURG DISPATCH. SUNDAY, MARCH 22, 1891 20 FANCIES FOR THE FAIR. Hints for Adorning the Figure and Orna menting the Home Latest Fads in Dec oration Fashion Note From London Recent Dresses That Attracted Atten tion. Our windows are undergoing a complete metamorphose, savs the Philadelphia Up hohterer. Twenty years ago everything was white window shades; then we had a period of dark shades, deep greens and what folks termed refined calors drabs and browns. Tor five years past the fashion became a sort of "go-as-you-please" fashion, with a ten dency, perhaps, among the better classes toward ecrus and natural Holland tints. 2?ow, however, Jor the first time we are get ting into fine designs in window shades, and the newest things from abroad are in bro cade styles and damask figures. Some of the patterns are in pin cords and stripes The Latest in fTindotcs. vim Luds ami ilowers interspersed. Then again we have lace in combination with the window shade. In tome cases the lace is arranged as a cros-stnpe and permits one to have a peep-hole in the shade when drawn down. AVe have seen these window shades, usually Hollands, with a cmtral section cut out ir. the form of a sphere or diamond, and a bit of Irish point lace inserted. Some times strips of lace and Holland shade cloth alternate, although the most approved use of the combination is the application of the lace entirely at the bottom of the shade. Every nation of tbe earth almost is made to contribute its article of adornment at fashion's altar, says a London correspondent of The Dispatch. From Egypt comes the girdle and the clanking chains and bar baric gems; from Italy the ear-scraping col Jars and the renaissance draperies. Prance contributes Louis, XV. coats and Trianon paniers, and Marie Antoinette- fichus are "done" to death bv elderlv ladies who have fine white hair. Little children recruit the ranks lrom Puritan America, with their close-fittintr cat and their loner-skirted coats, while Grecian maidens swell tbe army , 11 LUC) llittca UllCilUIGOlIu lllfJIUilCUUUIC arms. Xo woman if she has brains and is not too fat need fear for her appearance nowadays. She must affect a "style" and liveup'toit. lfsl.e have a long purse and is lacking in brilliant ideas, she can let her dressmaker find a style ior her. Mirrors with quaint old frames are com ing into fashion again. Last month several decided novelties in Japanese goods came out. Sprigs and stalks cf artificial Japanese flowers are shown in Vivid Japanesa color beautiiul things the Eort of flowers of queer never-before-seen Ehr.pes that we have looked upon in screens with some sort ol coloring, too. They make excellent decoiations to put over picture fijraes or stick into dull vases. The flowers sir- ot a paner texture, but the stems are Mnund with silk. Not expensive; a bunch costs SO cents retail. Strange and weird insects are making their appearances on some evening gowns that have been displayed in Bond street, London, says a Dispatch correspondent. One of pale cau de nit mousseliue de soie was cut dancing length, with plain back tind a deep hem, while the front was most artistically draped high up on the right tide v. here rested an enormous butterfly ol fold gauz, with jeweled spots on its out tpread wings, the antenna; of chenille and prildcd wire, tipped with luminous greenish fctones. Auo'.her butterfly of the same .de scription adorned the leit side, hut very much lower down. These two insects were Iullyl0orl2 inches in diameter, but, so delicate was their construction, and so per fect their pose, they scarcely looked out rageous. Two smaller-winged creatures were disposed on either shoulder of this novel conn. The Lodice was softly out lined round the heart-shaped neck with dainty gold lace, .which was brought dowu the iront and edged the waist points, back pud front To match the costume, a pair of "golden slippers," with tiny jeweled "flies" ou the toes, were displayed, and also stock ings ot eau de nil, embroidered in gold with the predominating insect. The pretty capote in the illustration is of the wired chenille that will be worn witli afternoon toilettes in the demi-season, says JIarper't Bazaar. A Demi-Season Bonnet. It is a coronet ol chenille, with lull loops high in front. Cream white lace with straight edges forms other loops, and sur rounds the crown. A black aigrette trims tbe back. People secure many novelties nowadays ! by getting plain goods by tbe yard and ap plying their own decorations, either of ap- pliqued cords and gimps or by treating the abric with that endless variety of decora tive conceits which are now to be had. An ecru curtain is designed with a rope, straw colored, the size of a clothes line, caught against the curtain in many odd ways, with tassels of frayed out ends. A novelty this season is a cretonne which does not exhibit any special features until held up to the light, when it shows brilliant colorings. The Chinese, or "Sacred Lily," of the Chinese, is said to be the same thing at our old Roman narcissus, but notwithstanding this is a most sweet and wonderful flower, says Ella Sparr in a letter to The Dispatch. It has become extremely pop ular and fashionable in tbe cities, and tbe bulbs are placed on sale at nearly every' flower stand. A few pebbles are placed around the bulbs, plenty of water sprinkled over them daily, and they seem to thrive on the open flower stands as cheerfully as if they were growing in the imperial Chinese gardens. .The lilies are supposed to be new and rare flowers, and as such they sell rap idly and for fancy prices; bat even though they should prove to be the old Boinaa narcissus this tact should not make them any the less desirable. A bulb should be placed in a deep, flat dish, with pieces of charcoal in the center, and pebbles piled up around it. The dish should be kept full of water and then placed in a dark room until the roots begin to grow. Eit a funnel of stiff paper over the dish, with a large open ing at the top, and give the plant light and warmth after the leaves appear. When the leaves reach the top of the funnel take the paper awav and place the dish in a sunny window. The buds will soon appear, and each bulb will givesix flower stalks, each one of which will bear several beautiful flowers. For tall, slender figures the three-quarter length bodices and jackets are most becom ing, but tbey are disastrous if worn by a short and fat woman. A very good example of this style of costume was shown by a "smart" London dressmaker the other day. It is destined to adorn the lovely figure of an American beauty, who is to be con spicuous iu high circles this season. The skirt is perfectly plain, with full pleats in the slightly sweeping back. The material is heavily corded poplin of that melting deep shade of "crushed rose," that is al ways so effective in this material. The basque is very long, almost to the knees, and has two deep box pleats at the back. The seams are covered with a delicate tracery of greenish silk passe- menterie and flue gold cord, which merges to a point at the waistline, where is a big truelover's knot in the same delicate colors. Tnis same trimming, interlacing lovers' knots, is carried round the neck and shoul ders, over the deep flap pockets, and on the large cuffs. A waistcoat of white silk, with outlining of gold, comes to a deep point De low the waist. A very lull jabot of fine old fashioned silk blonde lace is at the throat, and deep trills ot the same fall over the hands. With this goes a three-cornered hat of very fine white felt, edged with the creen and goid tracery, and a liny roeette of the rose color on one side. Tnis all sounds most biz irre when put into heartless black and white, but the satisfaction that one's eyes feel when resting on it is worth the while. Photography has been applied to decora tive fabrics, says the Philadelphia Uphol sterer. "Take a window shade," remarks the inventor; "what is there that would please the average mother more than to have baby's bead and bust reproduced life-size on tbe parlor shade? It wouldn't show from tbe outside, but would light up like a trans parency from within. I can make that photograph on a window shade for a trifle; I can color it in an hour, and there you have a decoration that is simply delightlul." Miss Cornwallis-AVest, one of the debu tantesat the last Queen's drawing room, in London, and the daughter of the celebrated beauty, was one of the most admired of the "buds" who passed before tbe throne. Her gown was of white satin, made in the em pire style. There were no flowers or feathers on it; the only trimming on the skirt were two or three fluffy trills. The short-waisted bodice uas adorned by a sash of diaphonous white stuff. She carried a pretty posy of white flowers, the loose chains ot which nearly touched the hem of her skirt. All the posies at the drawing room were finished off with long loops and ends of ribbon aud trails of ferns or blossoms. A few ladies had posies composed 01 foliage. A curtain which attracted considerable attention recently in a down-town window, was a plain colored jute velours, reddish brown, with side Border of steel-colored gimp, 34 inches wide. The gimp had an ancient look as though taken lrom old vest ments. A debutante's presentation gown is com posed of a "petticoat of white satin, which serves as fonndation to a fine white net covered with floss silk embroidery, the petals of each flower enclosing an oral aid 'WTlllffh t?3 Front of a Spring Costume. lozenge of white crystal, relieved with steel and finished off at the edge with dew drop fringe, says a London correspondent of The Dispatch. The bodice is white satin trimmed with ostrich tips; the train is of the best 'and thickest white cloth, which costs, by the way. quite as much asn Court brocade lined with swansdown. Since the Empress of Austria and Archduchess Valerie have adopted cloth lor evening wear, this somewhat heavy material has become quite the thing. It is said, however, that the Queen does not regard the innovation, at '.east, so far as Court dresses are concerned, with favor; and the Court Chamberlain will probably prohibit "any materials but silk, satin or velvet" before the next drawing room. One of the latest things in screens is a gigantic web with spider of proportionate . very good afternoon gown is of Bor deaux red woolen stud The plain skirt is gathered very full at the back, and bordered with a deep band of silver and black em broidery. The short bodice is fastened at the side, and embroidered with black and silver in tbe back, yoke-shape across tte shoulders, In front coming into the point of the waist. A verv full flounce of the em broidered stuff falls over the tops or the sleeves down to the point of tbe bodice, which is finished with a black and silver girdle. A soft ruche of black feathers round the throat gives an effective finish to a most charming costume. Such a gown could, of course, be worn to small dinners of evenings. "Here is something new that we are hav ing quite a demand for from the high class decorators," said a Chicago fringe man, exhibiting a lot ot cow tails which were hanging upon a rack in his factory. "These we bleach and then 'make into tassels. The upper part of the tassel is formed from a mold, which is covered with woolen yarn dyed in Oriental colors, such as red, yellow and green. The tassel is then suspended from a cord to match. These loops and tassels are particularly adapted ior heavy portieres. Brass curtain poles and fancy ends are now being made in gilt, almost orange color, instead of the brassy looking tints. Lion beads are being also offered in brass, with rings suspended from the jaws, for tbe pur pose of catching up the ends ol curtains. In bodices the newest thing in Paris is the Cleopatra corsage, copied from the bodice immortalized by Sarah Bernhardt, says a DISPATCH correspondent. It con sists of a straight width of thin embroidered silk, swathed round the body, without hav ing lace, loop or button to keep it in place. In fact, the wearer of this garment must be an artist to her finger tips to arrange the folds properly, for it is wound round the bust and shoulders in surplice fashion; the loose-hanging sleeves fit on and are tacked down each separate, time. Only very slim figures can indulge in the Cleopatra bodice; but on them it looks very well. Another Egyptian corsage is the Nile scarf or tunic, which is worn as an opera cloak, and gen erally consists ot a genuine tiger or fox skin with brightest yellow or crimson silk. Velvet is still used to advantage in even ing coiffures, and very useful it is to women who have scanty locks, says a London corre spondent of The Dispatch. A butterfly bow, with a tiny aigrette, can cover a weak spot most advantageously. The very frizzy and crimped style of hair dressing is not as much .in vogue, and one sees much tidier chevelures than formerly. Suburban cottages will have their little Queen Anne windows draped this summer with nothing more chic or dainty than the curious petite figured muslin curtains, pure white with touches here and there of quaint color. Bays the Philadelphia Upholsterer. For some time muslin curtains embroidered with a tambour cord have been very pop ular, but we have not had tbem in these little printed color designs, the effect of which is enhanced by the addition of a small cotton ball fringe, the balls showing at in tervals the color of the design. Bonnets in London are still infinitesi mally small, and hats proportionately large, and they all have a rather "smashed" ap pearance. The "jeweled" and gilded lace is used ad nauseum, and only an artist can make the headgear of the period escape tawdriness. Bonnets with their crowns tapering to a peak are striving ior uhde served prominence, for they give the head a most uugraceiul outline, and require much cnreful study before tbey can be properly poised. Tbe jeweled toque is a new fancy for Lon don aud is made up on a frame of wire cov ered with velvet, on which are sewn the gems. If an aigrette of feathers is worn, it is placed quite at tbe back and is a ho jeweled tipped. Sweet simplicity has given way to stately splendor, the smartest bon net's have a plain velvet or brocaded crown slightly puffed np over the Grecian head of hair, and surrounded by a gemmed ribbon or tiny coronal of spring blossoms, strung sparsely together, violets, snowdrops and lillies of the valley being principally em ployed. The outer brims ot straw hats are also edged in this style, and look well, especially if the effect is carried out by a bunch of the flower used being placed under the 'turned up flap over the hair. A butterfly fancy ball dress just sent off to a Russian Court lady was composed of a simple tight underskirt of black satin cov ered by a Grecian robe of tulle, a golden band round the waist was carried up in a cross to each shoulder where it was secured by a tiny gold diamond powdered butterfly. A huge black lace butterfly flapped be hind; in the hair another lightsome insect studded with precious stones was so made tnat its wings opened and shut at every movement, carried out the leading idea, and a row of tiny butterflies shimmered on the long black silk train, and gleamed from tbe velvet slippers. London is prond of Mrs. Augustus Harris. The good lady of the Sheriff and member for Drury Lane Theater was a mass of costly lace at the Queen's drawing room. The skirt seemed to be all lace, while the brocaded' train was ornamented with ex quisite ostrich feathers. There is no doubt tnat Mr. Sheriff personally superintended a dress rehearsal of the gown and curtsey. WILL call at your residence with samples and furnish estiinates.on furniture reuphols- tery. UJiUQU. OS iVEEUAIf, su 83 Water street, Pretty Combination for the Parlor. CASHAND MATRIMONY Effect of tbe Financial Emancipation of Women on Sir Cupid. WILL flAYE TO BE MORE CAEEFUL. Opinions of Leading- Advocates of Equal Eights lor the Sexes. POETICAL AND PfiACTICAL K0TI0NS rcoKBisrospracB or the dispatch. l Washington1, March 21. Year by year tbe unmarried women of the United States increase iu number. There are more than 80,000 unmarried marriageable girls in Massachusetts, and the coming census will show that fewer marriages are contracted now than ever before. The females among the Government clerks at Washington say they preler independent single blessedness at 1,000 a year to dependent matrimonial existence at hard work and no pin money, and it is a question as to whether the new openings iu business and professional lives are not going to drive the wives and mothers out of existence. During the past winter nearly every noted independent female thinker has visited Washington. I have met most of them and have questioned them on this subject. My first interview was with Susan B. Anthony. She said: Free From Financial Bondage. "Our business and professional life will of course affect marriage. It will lessen bad marriages and it will guard women from ill-sorted ones. It will take from immoral and unworthy men the advantage they now have over some women as their only means of support and will give them the lreedom to choose for themselves. On the other hand good marriages will be increased by the present condition. When women achieve real independence and have their political, industrial and financial equality, tbey will no longer sell themselves to a so called husband for a so-called home. They will not be satisfied with board and lodging in some man's house and as much else ot his worldly goods as he chooses. "Financial dependence is the secret of this women's rebellion, for it is the core of her domestic unhappiness. When men recognize women as equal factors in human government, as creatures of financial inde pendence aud apace with themselves, then women will pot only be wooed as real sweet hearts, loved as wives and enjoyed as com panions, bnt they will be respected as self respecting human entities." One of Anna Dickinson's Chances. Miss Anthony pointed her argument with a story related of Anna Dickinson during the time she was nightly earning $220. She received at this time a proposal of marriage from a 40-a-tnonth Yankee school teacher, who stipulated that "such marriage must be followed by her retirement from public Hie." "Too many marriages are made because women are driven to marriage for support," said May Wright Sewall, President-elect of the Woman's Rational Council. "As women enter the industrial world, acquire higher education and are admitted to tbe professions, they will be fitted for self-support and able to maintain that self-respect which forbids unchaste marriage. The man of the future is to be envied; he will be ac cepted because be is loved, not as a mere means of a living. Men now have little assurance that tbey are accepted for love alone when there are so many other motives impelling women to matrimony. Educa tional and industrial lreedom will permit a woman to give her heart with her hand." Trances Willard's Poetic Ideas. "When I was a child," said Frances Wil- lard, "J lived in the country and close to the heart of nature. I loved all animal life, and unconsciously became a student of nat ural laws. It was there, idly watching the mating of birds and the association of the animate creation generally, that I learned the fundamental principles of sex. Though my eyes were keen in those days, I saw nothingof what we call domestio tyranny, nor of -marriage based upon anything but natural law. "The father and mother birds to be, first sang together, flew together, and then to gether, builded the nest. Except in tribes that betrayed sex by plumage I was always puzzled as to which was which. When the nest was full of eggs, even then they shared the long, loving service of bringing their family into the world. Each of the birds sat upon the nest, and when the children had chipped the 'shell both parents brought them lood, sans to them and taughthem to fly. Nor did I lever see manifestations of superior aud inferior relations between horses, male and female, or other of tbe nobler orders of the animal kingdom. Mature Is Democratic "Nature also arranges that her children shall go two by two. There are no go-it-alones in the field or wood, and if I felt that the emancipation of woman would interfere with this divinely appointed union, I would be totally against the woman movement. But I seein women's physical, mental and spiritual advancement the only road up to natnre's standard of harmony to the human race. I grieve over this unnatural division of the sexes into apparently antagonistic groups. We would usurp no rights of men. We are willing to concede man bis half of the world, but he must give us ours. "By and by marriage will rise to a uni versal harmony, and this is the love that will be the lulfillment of the law. True marriage is a periect mating upon the three planes, physical, mental and spiritual. At the present stage men have the greater mental, women the higher spiritual devel opment. Women must acquire the mental .hardihood of men, and men must reach a higher spiritual plane. It man may be called the mind of the world, woman is its soul, but tbey must be in harmony. Mar riage must mean companionship." TJHIe Deverenx Blake's Ideas. . "Yes," said Lillie Devereux Blake, "wo man's progress does interfere with marriage. It makes girls fastidious. In New York two-thirds of the unemployed women marry, while over one-half of the school teachers remain single. This, said Mr. Jasper, su perintendent of public schools, is because a sensible young woman isn't exchanging a certain 560 for an uncertain young man. .Nor is this independent or emancipated woman to lose her attractiveness. Higher education, finer thoughts and equal rights will not obliterate, but rather add to youth and beauty." The Bev. Anna B. Shaw, President of the Wimodaaghsis, national lecturer for (he Suffragist Organization, when ques tioncd said without hesitation: "I have no doubt that this emancipation of woman, po litical, mental and industrial, will have a marvelous effect upon marriage. It will tend' decrease tbe number of bad mar riages. It wil increase the number of happy ones. Just so long as men continue to marry their mental inferiors and women to select their moral inferiors marriage will be unequal and unsatisfactory. As there will be fewer ill-assorted marriages among equals, so there will be Smaller Families and Bettor Children. "If I were to state the chief cause of domestic unhappiness where divorce is not sought, I would say it was the wife' lack of financial independence. When women have demonstrated their ability to earn money we will not see tbe daily desecration of the institution called marriage. In short, as Carrie Lane Chapman put it, 'We will not have $10,000 girls marrying 10-cent men.' The wife ot the future will demand, not as a privilege, but as a natural right, her share of the money, and she will enter matrimony 1 as a partnersiup, or sue win carry on exist ence ulune in a reasonable independence. When women are emancipated intellect ually,, men will make them companions, and" neither be driven to male acquaint ances nor to other women for mental stim ulus." "Keferring to tbe effect of high education upon marriage, Miss Shaw stated that a careful study of college alumni records de velops tbe fact that college-bred women marry later in Hie and bear fewer children, but that fewer of these children die, ana they are superior both in physical and men tal constitution. The Knots She Has Tied. Speaking of her personal experience as a minister she said: "For a long time I was puzzled to know why all tbe marriage cere monies performed by myself had presaged ideally happy marriages. They were not ideal people, but having kept trace of them all for years, I was continually surprised, that each marriage had proved a perfect mating. Now, however, I begin to see that when a man is broad enough to choose a woman for this ceremony, or to concede to his bride the right to select a woman, he possesses the broad character which will make of marriage something higher and better than a physical relation, or that of master ami nousekeeper. Mrs. Harriet Taylor TJpton, the daughter of Judge B. B. Taylor, ot Ohio, and one of tbe world's air female managers, said: "Men cling to the idea that marriage will be a less beautifnl relation when a woman is something more than a pet and dependent clinging child. They mistake also our de mand for political equality as a desire to fol low man's methods and steal his perquisites. What we women hope most from political equality is equalization ot pay and the op portunities ior individual life that men enjoy." BacUel Foster Avery's Experience. "My marriage may be quoted as a result of suffrage training "on both sides," said Itachel Foster Avery. Secretary of the Na tional Woman's Suffrage Association. "Both my husband and myself were born and reared in anti-slavery and woman's rights families. His mother is a devoted suffrage worker, while my father was the first man in the country to pay women printers salaries equal to men. At the age of 12 I wrote my first woman's rights essay, and tbe same year Mr. Averv, then a boy ot 16, wrote a similar one in college. ' "We were introduced years later through a suffrage convention, that is, by a letter from a mutual friend in attendance. I had long before this become used to the idea of old-maidhood. Very liberal home training had made me fastidious. Being- fond of children I bad legally adopted a little orphan girl and planned my life without reference to marriage. That introduction, however, brought a man whose life and pur pose were similar to my own, and after adopting a domestic platform of love, liberty and equality we served no tice upon our friends that tbe third party had declared its principles. The Rev. Anna Shaw, Methodist, post poned a couple ot suffrage meetings and came on to Philadelphia to perform the ceremony. She was assisted by the Bev. Charles Ames, of Boston, a famous Unitarian. We have a daughter now aged nine months, and who already is a member of four suffrage societies' or Chicago, of Cook County, of Illinois and of the National. My own happy marriage on the liberal plan is my answer to this question. And my last conclusion," said this young and charming ly gay spirited woman, "assures me that an equal rights marriage can never be a fail ure." Mrs. Avery wears a watch on the face of which is her husband's picture, and among the official papers in her handbag was an other of the same handsome man. The mutual adoration of this couple furnishes many stories among their friends. Miss Geundt, Jb. CABHEGIE'S MUSIC HAIL. Something About the Ventilation of His Gift to New York. New York Herald. 1 The fresh air that is used in the ventilat ing system of Carnegie's Music Hall of New York is taken in above the roof, some 130 feet above the curb line, and brought down through a shaft into what is known as the "fan room," the inlet capacity being over 8,000,000 cubic feet of air per hour. Here it is distributed by means of four large fans and four engines through the house by an intricate system of ducts, some of which are nearly as large as the corridors themselves. Nor is this all. In the upper part of the "lateral building" are three supplementary fans and engines, which act as counter irri tants to the air (hot or cold at pleasure), which are made to sweep through the build ing with such cleansing power. Engineer .Russell assured me that the air in each room could be and was changed every 20 minutes. To test the power of the ducts through which the currents were sent,I was forced to use both bands to open one of the doors through which the air was circulating. Bits of paper were tossed about as in a whirl wind. And yet. in the room above, into which the current was turned, there was no unpleasant feeling of a drauerbt, so well was the air regulated and.so uniformly diffused. ELECTKICITY POE H0SQUIT0ES. A Wire Netting That Is Said to Be a Satis factory Protection. Philadelphia Upholsterer. Wire netting, as delicate as ordinary mosquito netting and attached to an electric battery, is an invention for entrapping the Jersey stork, yclept the mosquito. The netting hangs in folds around the bed or crib, and the occupant can enjoy an hour's sport by lighting a lamp and waiting attack. The "stork, attracted by the lamp, will soon alight on the canopy. Tbe invention consists of pressing a button and turning on tbe fatal electric shock. BUSINESS DEESS FOB WOMEN. A Caricature Upon the Recent Agitation by the Female Conventions. At the Woman's National Convention re cently convened in Washington no topic at tracted so much discussion or was discussed with so much interest as that of a suitable costume for business women, says an ex change. The sketch accompanying this article is of a woman who, eschewing the trammels of so-called society, and spurn ing tbe mocking criticism of heartless man, n:is niea ner lortn clad in the habiliment most suited to her ardu ous avocations. Observe! Tbe hair is "combed straight back as if for taming accidental thought." It is sur mounted by a silk tile of accordion design ; the height is supposed to add dignity; the floating rib bou attached is to close it during a high wind or in public gatherings where it may obstruct the vision of those seated in; the rear. She is warmly at tired iu a combination garment underneath the business dres, tbe latter being composed of two piece; the upper extends to tbe waist line, tbe neck being gathered on to an elastic that is easily slipped over the head, The Business Dress.rhile the sleeves, extend ing to the finger tips, do away with the ne cessity of gloves. The skirt is short and narrow, economical, easily made, quickly laundered and ad justed, being buttoned to tbe waist by three seusible suspender buttons. Two large pockets, garnished with bright gimp of such hue as may suit the feminine fancy, are strongly attached thereto. The lower and roost capacious one is for business docu ments and may extend across the entire front width as business increases; while the upper packet will be found convenient lor lunch, or gum, or candy. Light patent leather boots are to be worn in pleasant weather, wbile heavier ones will take their place as the season demands. Tbe material for this robe can be of velveteen, a la Ed mund Bussell in winter and of cheese-cloth In summer. SHIRLETPARE'SCHAT International Copyright Doesn't Ben efit the Kight People. WHAT AUTHORS ARE ENTITLED TO. Price isked the Wife of Millionaire Huntington for Massage. THE YALUE OP SIMPLY KNOWING HOW IWStTISX TOB TBI DI8PJ.TCH.1 ONGRATTJIiA TIONS by friends of international copyright seem to be the order of tbe day. Trifling bene fits are to be received with fitting thanks. Now that an author is conceded rights in his own work abroad, he may in time be allowed rights in it at home. At present these are limited to what pub lishersichoose to allow him, and to what the rest of the world does Dot find worth steal ing. American writers lent their hands to working for copyrights to benefit publishers and printing offices. The author all over the world couuts last, after the "jour" printer, who sets up the pages of his book, and tbe paper folder, who sorts the leaves. The printer gets his pay weekly, as Saturday comes round, and tbe publisher is much obliged that he does not raise bis price a lew cents a thousand between two Mondays. Authors Asking for Money. Authors get their checks when there are any after long waiting, with all a pub lisher's scorn for a gentleman who wants money. Wasn't it one of the Bentleys.Lon don publishers, who, said to William Howitt, "How can I 'feel respect for an author who has to ask me for money?" and tbe feeling is not extinct to this day. Unfortunately, gentlemen who write for love of literature, who can afford to let their accounts run two or three years without thinking of them and take tbe check a pub lisher sends without scrutiny of accounts, are not frequent enough to support the pub lisher's business, and he is obliged to fall back on the impecunious writer who occa sionally has to be paid, with contempt. Serves him right for being a fool outside everything but pen and ink, and not learn ing tbe business part of literature as well as its creative part. He offers himself so meekly to the plucking and pinfeathering that he ought to be punished for putting temptation in the way of publishers of weak virtue. The Lop-Eared Meekness of Writers. That he should enthusiastically sign a pe tition for copyright to benefit publishers and printers is precisely what was to be ex pected from his enduring, lop-eared meek-! ness, and be is very justly taunted Dy tbe Typographical Union that all the authors iu America could not have gained inter national copyright if the printers had not helped them. What printers and pub lishers worked for in copyright was not au thors' interests, but their own, and there was no occasion in the very limited bill which passed for authors to catspaw the chestnuts out of the fire. Only cne literary man in the country, so far, has the shrewdness to see bow little tbe copyright bill helps authors. Mr. Arlo Bates, of the Boston Courier, had tbe can dor to say that he hoped tbe bill would not pass, because it was unsatisfactory, as all compromises are, and would benefit the Ty pographical Union more tfijvn anyone else. "What are the interests of authors to the public?" I hear you asking. Just this, let me tell you. While you lament the prevalence of not only vile, but weak, injurious literature, which does in credible mischief in social life, remember that authors depending solely on slender, hand to mouth earnings will be tempted to cater to weak, vicious tendencies, ip feed your children and women with sugar and chalk trash instead of the sweet and strong which' makes them alive and glad. The Power of Literature. Your women and children mind what they read in story books, magazines and weekly papers lar more than the teachings of church and home, it is to be feared. Their ideals, their ambitions are shaped by stories of imaginative, exceptional if not impossible successes, failure to realize whicb embitter life and turn their energies away from worthier, kinder effort Nothing has ever been so inspiring to individual, social or national life as pure literature; nothing so demoralizing as weak sentiment, although it may be well meant. fe We will have writing which is a force for every best interest when tbe full rights of its craft are respected and secured, just as we shall have a manly and outspoken clertrv when every minister does not have to suit bis sentiments and expressions to the ideas of half-educated parishoners on penalty of losing his living. "Do you know what literary men are worth in a mere business way to business men?" it is not long since I heard a manu facturer say to one of them, a writer re proached for "putting too much work in bis writing" by other newspaper men. Literature in Business. "I have been trying to bring my inven tion to the notice of the public for years. I have spent thousands upon thousands of dollars for it, aud it has not begun to do me the good your article has done me in a busi ness way." That was the value of clear thinking and writing to the point, ot culti vated insight and expression, two things which create literature. Equally significant is the fact that a pop ular story paper passes over a hundred "popular'"' writers to choose for its conduc tor a man whose literary taste is of the most exacting order, because his work piys and lasts. Whether in editing or writing, good taste and high taste are conditions of suc cess, felt to be such by the best business men. We are in danger of passing over the highest tribute lately paid to our American women. Its value lies in its not being in tended as a compliment, but an unstudied expression of fact. After the late elections, explaining tbe defeat ot his party charged erroneously to the representations of news papers about the McKinley bill, Speaker Beed said tersely: "The shopping women did it." He is in a position to know what he says, and his opinion is shared by most thinking people. What Women Can Accomplish. Do you see what you have been able to do, women who read this, and to do it without ballot or electioneering, or rushing around in the mud ol wintry streets and party poli tics. You have not had to drive about dis tributing tickets or kissing greasy butchers for votes; you have not bad your names smirched or motives impugned. You see, mesdames, what you can do without one atom of political privilege. I am very much pleased to be able to tell women to-day somethiug for their interest, which marks a great step in advance. Not finding some trifle of shopping in the village next Harvard, where I "trade," as women do all over the country, I sent to New York fr samples, which caiue from one ol the best known bouses in the Union, with this significant sentence in the printed circular accompauying: , All drygoods bought of us will be forwarded toanv accessible point in tbe United States free of all mail or express charge. This system of sending goods from Lon don free of carrying charges to any point in Britain has long been practiced, but this is the first attempt to introduce the conven ience here. And candor compels me to say the prices are not raised to cover the express charge, as far ns I can discern. Shopping From Our Own Homes. The great benefit to us people East is that it relieves us from the vexation of dealing with express companies whose charges are too apt to be overcharges to benefit one's nerves. Large houses sending out thou sands of dollars' worth of business can make rummer I lliiiBB1 better terms with tbe companies than you or I can, and this move will do more to lower tbe price of expressage than any direct action. As one house has taken the first step in this direction the rest must follow, with the result that the Sierras and ranch homes cau order the newest fashions from tbe cities and do their shopping from their own verandas at their ease. Think: of the advertising, pictorial and descriptive, that will be necessary to set things forth to the purchasers! Advertising is a fine art ss it is, and this new enterprise will call it still more into use. Photographs which show the very texture as well as the pattern of fabrics which are in demand, and cofor photography and printing will be drawn upon to a vast extent. In ordering from the large houses there is really very little risk of not being suited, as tbey have it ground into them not only that honesty is the best policy, bnt that it is better to suit a customer than to make a sharp bargain. Millionaire Huntington and Massage. Cosmetics and osmetic treatment are to have thorough exposition in the comingsnit of a noted New York complexion artist against the wife of an equally well-known millionaire. The case seems to stand that tbe great lady took treatment for reducing her size and improving her complexion for two months, taking two or three hours' massage in a day, and found a bill of 800 too much lor the luxury. She refused to pay, and the complexion specialist brings suit for her bill. Several suits are on record in London against tbe celebrated lime. Bachel, whose paints, powders and enamels were the acme of art in their way till the new era of mas sage and electricity. The suit involves not a mere personal in terest for a lady specialist, but is of interest to all women, as it will decide whether a very uselul and fairly remunerative calling will be supported in its claims and remain open to a sex poorly provided with paying vocations. Iu fact, for the hundreds of gentlewomen born, who find themselves dependent on their exertions for' a living, with poor preparation, few employments are more available or more acceptable to the public than that of the masseur and toilet special ist. Fraud is quickly found out and does not pay, and the profession requires chiefly honesty, faithfulness and agood pair of arms for giving treatment, Tbe benefits to so ciety of honest, competent toilet specialists are great. Boom for Toilet Specialists. Treatment is one of the greatest luxuries, inexpressibly soothing to the nerves and stimulating in the safest way. At the same time it is a decided call upon the operator's strength and nerves to make passes over a fleshy woman for an hour together. Con sidering there are not a dozen women of good standing in the United States capable of treating a case skillfully, it is not at all unreasonable that they should reap the reward of exceptional ability. ,It is not considered too much to charge $100 ior treating a wrinkled or obese face, and an equal amount for an arm is not exorbitant in view of the benefit given. A fashionable doctor will not hesitate to ask $500 for a case involving far less time and effort, and his rich patients will not think of disputing the bill. Tbe trades have a good story apropos of this of a company that had a new $25,000 steam engine, which unaccountably re used to work satisfactorily. One educated en gineer after another inspected it without finding the reason. Finally hearing of a mechanic noted for managing engines, they sent for him. He studied the engine an hour or two, took his hammer and tightened a nut or rivet with a few strokes and set the machinery working. Tbe company were delighted and asked for his bill, which he said was $27. It seemed a large one for so little work and he was desired to send an itemized bill, which came next day: "To two hours' time repairing engine, $2; to knowing how, 25." The company saw the justice of the charge and paid tbe bill. It is always the knowing how that counts. What Mrs. Huntington Got. In the massage case the customer without it would have been deprived othe pleasure of wearing a costly necklace or would have had to enlarge it at a cost of $5,000 at least. Her health and looks were greatly improved by the treatment, to say nothing of luxurious hours spent almost daily for a month under tbe operator's hands. Yet the bill she re fuses for all this is far less than she would pay for a single ornament and not half what she would pay any wesfl known physician for similar benefit Women are at fault to their sex in this injustice toward toilet artists. Paint and powder and making up are dear at any price, but massage and scientific treatment are lasting benefits, worth all their pro fessors ever get for them. Yet women will crudge paying $50 for the removal of blem ishes which render them hideous to their friends and make life a burden to them selves. One woman who knows perhaps as much of toilet art and medicine as almost anyone in the country, said not long since that the few times when she had consented to give other women the advantage of her knowl edge were the signal for so mncb cheatery that she had resolved to burn her recipes be fore she wpuld ever impart one of them, and the rest of women might go as hideons as thev pleased, with superfluoushair, atrophies and hypertrophies; they never should be the better for anything she could tell them. When I came to know the history of her cases I could not feel the decision uncalled for. Shirley Dabe. A VKY ODD MABIHE FLAG. An Italian Ship Hoists the Fapal Colors at Philadelphia. Philadelphia Kecord.l No vessel ever before left Philadelphia under the colors which wtre flung to the breeze from the masthead or the Italian bark Davide, which left the Point Breeze re fineries yesterday outward bound to the Mediterranean with case oil. Tbe flag was one of pure white, with a mitre and keys in tbe center, and was taken from a Papal regiment by General Garibaldi in his at tack upon Borne in 1858. Although Gari baldi was defeated, Louis Paris, one of his solJiers, living in this city, seized one of the color-bearers and captured tbe flag. He bore it away in trinmph, although the Papal guards fought desperately to regain their colors. For a long time efforts have been made to discover the whereabouts of the color?, and only recently the owner per mitted them to pass into the hands of cer tain eentlemen in Genoa. STOCK ENTIRELY AW. FINE WALL PAPER! AT AIL PRICES; WM. TRINKLE & CO. 541 WOOD ST. 541 Bank of Commerce Building. DEALERS IN " UNCRUSTA WALTON." SPRING'S FAY0RITES. Daffodils Are Bursting Into Beanty and Preesias Are Goin?. ORCHIDS RECENTLY INTRODUCED, Effective Flower Window in a Framework of finstic Design. A N0TELTI IN ART DECOEATIOff IWIUTTX2V TOR THI DISPATCH, i The modest daffodils are now opening tbeirpretty flowers to the sunlight in all the florists' windows, and as soon as spring weather will permit they will be blooming in every garden. They are very fashion able flowers in early spring, and quantities of them are used for bouquets and house) decoration. But the- daffodil shows off to the best advantage when formed in wido borders in the garden or park or bedded out in some design. In out-door cultivation they should be given a westerly situation and bo planted in good, rich turfy soil with amplo depth and good drainage. Rank, rich fertilizers are not beneficial; tbey rather injure tbe plants. Soil in which coarse, gritty stones or tbe fibers and roots ot trees are mixed is tbe best for tho wbite trumpet daffodil, one of tbe brightest of spring's favorites. Among tbe bulb plants that bioom late in winter and early in spring and then let their glory depart from them until another season of cold weather is tbe common freesla. known and appreciated by all flower lovers. No other winter flowers are more easily propagated tban this, or more enjoyable for their beanty and fragrance. The bnlhi first came to tbis coun try from tbe Cape of Good Hope through tbe efforts of tbe Massachusetts Horticultural Society, and it was through members of that body that tho bolus were preserved and propa gated. It is now a plant that has become uni versally known and admired, and yet U was only a few years ago that it was unknown to this country. Their blooming period extends from January to the latter part of March, when the bnlbs should be ripened and stored in soma dry place until next fall. The flowers are tnbe sbaped, fragrant, and in color wbile, with just a spot of yellow on tbe lower petals. Strone, visorous bulbs should only be secured, and these will throw up stems from 15 to IS Incbe3 nigh. Ever since its strange introdnction in thli country the freesla has been steadily gain ing in populraity. and for bouse and conserva tory culture it ranks high. StiU Cultivating the Orchid. Orchid culture is not declining by any means, and tbis is attested in by tbe fact that there are more people engaged in hybridizing tbem than ever before; many for tbe love of tbe work and others with the vague hope that thev will pro duce something that will realize for tbem large sums ot money. There are two new orchids that bave recently been introduced that de serve notice. Belonging to tbe popular genns cypripedium. tbey have come from widely dif ferent sections of tbe country. C. Elliot tianum was introduced from the Philipnine Islands and. C. Botbscbildianum from New Guinea, although tbey are closely allied and practically bave the same shape or flower. The. colors of the flower?, however, are different. Both of them have received popular attention and command bizb prices. ' In Belgium, wherever you go. yon see spacer between double "ashed whitlows filled in tbe winter time with tbe most cbarniing flowers! Elsewhere tbe balconies are turned into green houses, and you find, on tbe fifth or sixth floor", a miniature greenhouse, gay with tbe briefness flowers .and tbe greenest foliage. In Fan.4 there are many such contrivances, where theS rarest plants are ionnd. Camelus grow in tbe( open ground. Pas-ion flowers cling to tbe col- umns; the creeping fig forms a carpet upon tbo wailj, and water plants start up from tiny basins curiously contrived in tho solid brick work. By turning a lancet a stream of limpid water flows down a rock, from ibe crevices of whicb start ud terns and lycepods. A Novel Flower Window. Americans seldom devote as much art and ingenuity in crowing plants in their windows as this, but here is a description of a simpler, but not less effective flower window that many see in this country. Secure four green sticks of wood, about three or four inches in diameter. Make a framework of tbem just tbe slzo of tba window, allowing tbe ends to overlap at each corner. Secure tbem over the inside window frame by two Ions: spikes. 2 bo color of the wood will be bronftbt out better by varniabln Then gather green and gray lichens from logs, trees and stumps, and sew them close together on three strips of muslin, just wide and long enough to tit snugly between tbe window panes and the outside trame. Tack the strips of mus lin on both sides anil over tbe top of the window. Side brackets ihould then be arranged for flower pots, and a winduw box of growing plants should be concealed from view by cover ing them with large, oddly-shaped lichens, which will give tbe effect of supporting the pots. HA large hornet's nest may be suspended from the center of tbe winduw and the iry vines trained around it. Some climbing plant should be grown lnoneot tne corner pots on tbo sill, and these should be trained up and aronnd tbo rustic framework so as partly to bide tbe green bark from view. A few ferns at least should be grown in tbe window, and tbe other plants should be selected for their bloom rather than for their foliage. Beauties Made "With Faint. A picturesque flower window constructed after tbe fasbion of tbe French and Belgian extension windows, or plant conservatories, greatly enhance tbe beauty of tbe borne both from without and wittin. Art decorators bave anticipated flower growers in this respect, and a novel extension window was recently com pleted wblcb. for uniqueness and originality, has never been surpassed. An ordinary extension window was con structed and then ou tbe inside of tbe class tbe finest exbibltion of tbe painter's skill was brought Into play. Perfect flowerpots, with rnnnii'g vines, and fl'werin plants of every conceivable color and siz, were painted on the glass. Shelves and brackets apparently sup ported tbe flower pots, and from tbe top of tbe window a bn banginc basket ot vines and lichens seemed to be suspended. Vines and green sprays that appeared to be growing from Invisible pots Inside were dimly seen against the panes of glass, and so perfect was tbe glass painting that people from tbe street verily be lieved that tbey were gazm: upon one of tbe finest collection of bouse plants ever brought together in one private house. Expensive orchids, hothouse roses, beautiful cbrsantbe muuis bloomed there tbe year round, and no body realized ibe deception until they went in side to smell of tbe "lovely flowers." Then the delusion was broken, for not a flower met their gaze; but lor outside effects this winlow is superb. Helzs Wharbdkcok. Don't Know What Ton Smoke. Kew York Sun. There are honest cigar dealers who admit that it is now impossible for them to certify to the genuineness, of all their stock. "It has lately been found out," said one of them, "that Chinese tobacco raised in China is shipped to Cuba, where it is made into cigars'that are exported and sold as genuine Ha vanes, made from the Cuban leaf." t i kSHKsBB
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers