Bf&BgMfl fl' ,W Bf i "l- vi K 20 THE PITTSBURG X5ISPATCH, SUNDAY, OCTOBER" 5,. 1890. K7Mi COLD WEATHER FASHIONS. Bklrlcy Pare Tells How Women of Sense Are Fizioc Their Wardrobes Hnftdsomt) Fnhdrs In Furs and Rnben Shoes for Iaeln.lic l'aemrrt ami floors. rwriTTEx fob tub DisrAifH.1 A welcome coolness in the wind promises frost the blessed frost whose touch exor cises from the nir foulness and disease, 'which destroys odors of swamp and street and sends a thrill of life into weakened frames. Two things the world wobld be very ill off without the east wind and frost the the two angels of health which counteract malaria and plague. They bring out the fur capes earlv and sensibly, for when'is cold more felt than when it firt comes? The stylish, reserved wearers like the coats in the softest thick wool, light as eider flannel, with dull, fine finish. Simply fitted in the back, the nar row, single froiilslookslenderwithnutdarts, and a thick cloth looks hunliiiply fitted to the but anvhow at best. A princess or a woman of exclusive taste would choose one of thee fine coats, with lone revers, braided with the cord that is not much more than coarse sewinsr silk on revers, collar and nar row cuff, leaving the braided sleeveopopn laritv which will immediately vulgarize it HATS AKD DOAS THIS AUTUMN'. To this coat the lair wearer will add the boa of thickly curled or sheared feathers, or the glossv conk's plumage, which is rather the choice for its effect in throwing up the whiteness of the complexion above it Alasl thee pretty feather boas are forbidden to round face and short tiironts, which remind one or a Christmas pudding round and unctuous in its wreath of holly while long laces with cheek tat have lost their full- Mantle With rcather Trimmings. ness wear these feathery coils with a kindly -Tract'. There is sene in these fashions re- peat "it ror the light, warm protection for I throat and iront will save many a weas ' chest from feeling tbe keen air which would leave one delicate lor the winter. The felt hat for town mornings is the boat shape with brim upturned in the back and front jut tne width to relieve features fallen off in plumpness without making them look spare id contrast to their span of roof. Ash gray feltn with rich loops of black velvet, cocks' plumes and scale embroidery in jet are the choice tor street costume. Park hats, with low crown and broad brim, come in natural grav rough felt and fur plush, with long plumes ir. Charles II. style. Fine French trfts have the brims buttonhole stitched with fine arrasene and chenille em broiderr on the broad fronts or embroidery and cutwerk veined with chenille. GOWNS TO BE "WOKS'. Gowns run to cut work and applique, tne finest serges in terra reds, bishop's purple. and Crmehls grays having borders ot vel vet applique, or velvet bands with flowers and rococo borlers cut from the cloth and applied with fine cord edging. These and the superb plaids in silky camel's hair and deep, sott Starris and Shetland wools are the most striking fabrics ot the fortnight The Macduff tartan, in its deep crimson with dark green bar, is the most sumptuous color ing of tli Scotch plaids. The lancy pat- A Pretty Joiner. terns which combine deep, rich mist-purples with grav and russet bars, or green an d gold, are so delightful in the shop windows one regrets to think of tlicra mismade, tambled aud worn by the wrong woman. They are to be worn as drapery solely, in shoulder Tilaids, which are their real purpose, anvi in plain skirts with broad side pleats, draped fronts and fullness gathered closely in the back. Mrs. T. V. desires to know whether hijTh sleeves are in correct taste, as she has sei-n them criticised for making persons look round backed. A moderate high shouldeV nnd sleeve are anatomically correct, as they give natural play to the muscles ot the shoulder, while a broad .shoulder cut brings, tbe seam directly across the curve of the muscle. The high-topped sleeve is gro tesque, and looks as if it were striving to give the ears a flap, and when the fullness is carried back at all it gives a pitifnl effect of bow tboalders. A good form has tbe shoulder blades flat a; tbe wall, and a back Sat lor its length, sire so. inward hollow at I the waist, is one of the cardinal points of beauty. The warm autumn brings out the fashions for dress so slowly that one is thanklnl for more time to make the house ready for changes of weather, and provide the Com forts with due forethought. TALL frOOT WEAE. First of all, delicate people must be well shod for changing seasons. Before the need oi warmer clothing is felt, the damp chill striking through the leet is felt through limbs and body, stiffening the cords and the P' A Tall Hat. gait, fostering a general ache of the muscles which tends to anything but Usefulnees of feeling. What is to be done? To wear rub bers constantly is only another form of the evil, for the leet cased in their own warm moisture get dangerously chilled on taking rubbers off. The sa'e thing is to have a rubber soled shoe, which leaves the upper part of the foot dry and free to the air. I never expect to see again the eminentlv sensible walking shoe which appeared in Boston shops six years since, which had a rubber sole inlaid on the tread, which was the most elastic,' comfortable shoe lor country walks, garden ing and snowy days one could ask. There were no rheumatics from digging in flower borders or pacing damp October walks with those boots, I promise you. The trouble was they were too good, for that one pair isiA worn out to this day, and so they were taken out oi sale for the benefit of poorer stock. But one can have a sole cut out of thin, pure rubber and cemented to a thin boot for 50 or lo cents a pair and s ive eud less internal troubles from cold feet Do you know how much easier living is with feet duly shod with elastic soles? The case of getting about on them took a third one's weight off. Who can estimate the relief to back, sinews and leg muscles? IMPOBTANCE OF SOUD SHOEING. All drivers know that city streets aud pavements wear out the feet and strength of horses ar sooner tnan tne country roaa-. Are pavements and floors any kinder to women? I don't believe any one who reads ever thought about it, but the constant stepping about uou-elastic floors and Side walks must wear creatly on the limited strength of women. Earth gives, the mountain sou is clastic, the wooaianu, tne grassy turf yield and save the foot which ireaus mem, Tiles, marble, stone, cement, oilcloth do not gie way, and all the impact of the tread returns upon the muscles and nerves in a cruel way. This constant jarring, un noticed at first, works strange mischief in women's organisms, and the cause is seldom suspected. Wood floors and sole leather heels are elastic beside stone pavements and metal heels, but not sufficiently so. One feels the difference very soon in "climbing iron or stone stairways, which take the lite out of the step strangely, and I pray never will become common for the sake of human- Lalest Shapes for Fall Sals. ity, which wastes itself upon them. But to know tbe luxury of looting, and how much relief i possible to the strain of life never dreamed of, one should put on the new shoes with elastic seam. It is just a little thing, an egbth of an inch or less of pure rubber let in at the ball of the foot, between sole and upper, invisible, detracting nothing from the fit of as shapely shoes as are sold, but making all the difference of ease and springy step, and taking the strain cfi so many painful muscles. MUTE SUFFEEING. Housekeepers, clerks, car drivers and floor walkers know what it is to feel that every step drives the heel into a socket of sore flesh about the ankle, and that again eenus me uone ui me ujipcr itrg against me hip socket with a jar that tells painfully on the sore and quivering flesh of the front and back muscles of tbe trunk. I am not writ ing anatomically 60 much as telling .how walking feels on unelastic floors and pave ments, though of inlaid woods, marble or iliuton tiles. A great deal of suffering goes on in onr costly thoroughfares in mute endurance. Mute, because no one can pity who has cot felt the pain. I know it, have known it vear after year, and can appre ciate the relief, the saving of muscle which these rubber additions to the sole afford. With them a new shoe leels easy as a shoe a year old, and as the shoes at 53 50 a pair are as finely finished, as trim shape and fine kid as commonly sell for $5 and $7 a pair, you will see I am trying to tell you of a really good thing. This is not the last improvement in foot gear 1 have to tell of. Have you ever no ticed tbe accidents which happen on the marble and inlaid floors of shops as well as on slippery ice? There is not a day that people do not measure their length on the smooth marble, or slip and brinz ud with a strain that wrenches every ligament of their bodies. Add to this the dreadful slipping of heels worn smooth on the edge of stepJ or thresholds with shock and wrench, and yon have quite a list of risks to run before the ice sets in with its dangers to lire and limb. SATETT FOE WALKEES. There is a ladies' coffee room I know whose marble floor is a nervous horror to customers with its slippery surface, and I have had-eo many shocks of tbe sort Kith lasting injury, that seeing the sign of "Kuo ber safety heels" in a basement shop win dow I dived far them at once. The inven tion consists of a block of pure flexible rub ber Jet into the heel so as to save the wearof leather, slipping and jar of spine. Though a dollar for a pair of heels feems rather an addition to the cost of shoes, personsjibhged to he close economists find nothing so well worth the money, hardly more for the safety than the spinal relief id walking. Dr. Bowditch, of Boston, as widely and well known as any physician in this coun try, is quoted as saying half the spine dis ease be meets is caused or aggravated .by high, hard heels, and has given the rubber heel his emphatio commendation. "With all possible respect to the doctor, however, those who try the rubber attachment to shoes need no other commendation than their own much relieved spines. COLD WEATHER GARMENTS. jFrom feet to head is but at step in shop ping, and the last continenal styles re ceived since this letter show opened figures in one illustration which have the chenille embroidered felts untrimmed, and two really graceful trimmed ones beside the sailor, to which wearers cling in felt The long cloak, figured Id rich lampas with velvet stripes and ostrich bordering for theater, is an excellent model for cold weather, in thick camels' hair or the silky winter cheviot in chevron weaving, that is, with reversed stripes. The border is not in dispensable, still for the cape it may be a narrow edge of astrakhau or fur, with-foot border of deep astrakhan or fluffy beaver. The little ostrich collar is Very pretty, and bright girls will quickly see use for their spare bits of ostrich feathers sewn on a satin foundation. The huge trimmed felt bonnet shows the long velvet slrings lo be Worn. Observe, too. the neat dressing of the throats in these bonneted heads the straight or nearly straght velvet collars, surmounted by a finish of white; either a fold of silk on the narrow linen collar with points or in cleri cal round shape, and the brooch worn ef fectively on the velvet The close bodice of the bonneted figure shows the best style of shoulder for the winter sleeves, the Princess style, as that lad v of sovereign good taste, the Princess of Wales, prefers them. SninLET Dake. ENGLISH WOMEN'S FEET. A Bootmaker Refers to tbe Princess of Wales n a Model. Fall Mall Bndget We Englishwomen have allowed foreigfl ers to ridicule what they call our big, ugly feet, without uttering even a meek protest up to now. It's about time we spoke up for ourselves, one would think. I asked a Bond street bootmaker whether Englishwomen really hid worse-loosing feet than the women of other nations, or whether it wasn't all nonsense to say they had. He said it was a difficult matter to decide, and the less said about it the better. "But," he added, "to be quite candid with you, I am afraid some of you have rather ungainly feet. I. judge from some of the specimens I see here. A few of the highest dames in the land come to me for their boots. I often wish they would take the Princess of Wales for their model in this matter, like they do in most things re lating to dress. Tbe Princess has as shapely a foot as it's possible to find, although it is by no means a small loot, mind you. Now, it the Princess believed in screwing up her feet I dare say she could get them into fours. But she is too sensible, and sixes are her size iu boots. The Princess has a rather long, narrow foot, without protuber ances of an v sort. Then the Princess never goes in for immoderate heels." FANCIES FOE THE FATS. The latest Parisian bonnet Is heart-shaped. A pleasant manner attracts a man; bright ness of brain holds him. It Is wonderful what a fancy there is at the moment for black ta gowns. ' Skirts of ultra-fashionable walking dresses sweep the ground in the back. Women f requontly choose the wall paper for their sittitig rooms to go with their complex ions. ( JIiep.ors with quaint old framos are beine sought out in attics and draped with a breadth of rich gleainiug stuff to adorn dressing rooms. A EOANDAI.SIONOEE Is a person who talks to our neighbor about us. An entertaining talker is a person who tells us mean stones about our neighbors. Many of the cloth jackets are of such rich quality and so handsomely decorated that they will be ontirely appropriate for dress oc casions and for carriage uses. It begins to seem that American women have been so flattered about their attainments that they are falling into a state ot overwheen inc vanity, sajs a writer in an English ex change. The Empress of China is said to have two wonderful mirrors recently presented by the Emperor, standing 15 feet high, in carved rose wood frames, and so heavy that it requires 16 men to carry them. Mrs. ilAQiLUCttDDT Do you know the "Song of the Shirt?" Airs. Shakem No; but since my husband has been going to tbe Home wood races, 1're learned that the son;; of bis trousers is, "There is no Chauge In Me." A prominent New York physician says the constant chewing of gum has produced weak minds in 14 cases of young girls now under treatment, tbe constant movement ot the mouth causing tco great a strain on the head. The woman of fashion who burns midnigh oil does it in most dainty style at present Her night lamp, if she has tho newest, will be a vase of ioal Worcester mounted in silver, wuh shade of perforated silver lined with am ber class. The English newspapers are praising Lady Lambert for her accuracy of aim, as well as for her skill in deer stalking. For the second timo this reason she has brought down a noble sue while stalking in Abeiuetny Forest. The last one weighed about 14 stone. One of tho daintiest bits of feminine finery for winter wear Is the feather boa. which reaches to the hem of the skirt The flues of tbe feathers are tightly curled, and tho boa, when tied close about the neck, is exceedingly becoming," oven to the plainest face. Batin will be worn more than usual for even ing gowns this winter. This material has been out of fashion for some time. It got into baa oaor when tbe cheap cotton-backed imitations were broug&t out. since then it has been looked upon as tawdry and commonplace. Men are less stingy than women with their turned-off clothes. A valet is allowed to dis pose of his master's discarded finery as be chooses. Gat women with fortunas to dress on save up all their left-oif gowns for the old clothes dealer, and tho highest bidder gets them. Miss Abigail Podge, better known as Qail Hamilton, conducts a Bible talk in Secretary Blaine's drawing room at Washington on Sun day afternoons. Her audience ii usually com posed of members of tbe so-called American court Mrs. Harrison not infrequently being present In the new color card for the winter season, which contains 68 shades, helitropes have been given the best places, a proof that these will be favorite shade daring the coming season. Bines come next in number, while tbe repre sentatives of tbe green and red families have taken back scats and will be rather neglected. . THE Empress of Russia, who has long been a victim to nervous prostration, is recovering her health and her spirits, although she is yet Intensely frightened when in a railway train. By way ot amusement she prints tbe Em peror's letters for him on a typewriter, which an enterprising American has Placed in the palace. Ten dollars is a small sum, yet what a new world for women it opens if It be invested in photographic apparatus? Women's keenly de veloped instinct for tbe decorative and pictur esque; their delight in tho mere manipulation of fragile objects, and their patience, all find in photography a congenial sphere; hat what is better stilt its practice dues not interfere with domestic duties and pleasures. 170 EEFEEENCE TO HTM. A Man Who Was Very Much Affected by a Sermon About a Killing:. Chteago Tribune. A thin, nervons looking man stepped up to the pastor as the latter came down from tbe pulpit "You have had a good deal to Bay this morninc,"he observed, "about a feller that killed a man named Abel." "Certainly," replied the pastor. " 'The Sin of Cain' was the subject of my dis course." I wish't you'd do me the favor next Sdn day," said the thin man, in some excite ment, "to tell the folks that the man yon was talking about this morning ain't no re lation to the Kane that keeps a livery stable down by the gristmill. I don't want none of my friends to think that I had a hand iu thatiillia'. Ihat'sall. Goodday." A MASTER IN 1I1S DAY. Something About tbe Character and Career of Thad, Stevens. HIS FIGHT FOR FKEB SCHOOLS. An Tyrannical a Knler in Legislative Halls as Speaker Reed. TE1B0TE3 TO BIS HOMER'S WOBTlI tWWTTElr r6n thx DISPATCH. I The children of Pennsylvania should be taught to honor the memory of Ibaddeus Stevens, by whose strennons efforts its pub lic schools were established. He appre ciated the Advantages of knowledge to the poor. He had come up frum the depth of poverty himself, and owed his education to the free schools of Vermont, where he grew up amid the straits and struggles of a nar row home in whieh the mother was the bread winner and care taker of a family of fonr boys, Of his father little Is known, save that he Shouldered his musket and went to the wSfcJ In 1812. when he was killed in battle. His mother, who sacrificed herself for her chil dren, who toiled early and late for their wel faie, who raised their ambition and incited them to good aud virtuous lives, must have been a woman of uncommon ability and notable enersy. Thaddeus all his life testi fied to her nobility ot nature, -and her am ple powers of mind. Wheh he had become a tdah hud could look back upon his youth with experienced eyes and knowledge of mankind, he did not hesitate to solemnly record that what he was and whatever good fortune and reputation he had secured in his career in life was due to her and to her counsels. HONORED HEE MEMORY. It is pleasinir to know from his biography that as he grew prosperous he made ample provision for her comfort, gave a liberal be quest to tne church She loved and ielt a fund to provide that her last resting place should be carefully guarded, and that "roses and other cheerlul flowers" should be planted around her grave every summer. Such love many men feel, but there are also many who fail to express their appre ciation of tbe tlreless.bouudless mother-love, which year in and year out guarded them from evil, and pived the wav fnr their suc cess in life, until the clods cover the cold form which, when alive, had an eye and a heart single and alone to their interests. When life is gone they "acknowledge the debt, but of what avail when the loving heart, which so longed for appreciation when living, is silent in tbe grave. It is a lesson all children might betbebetter Tor learning that the father of'tKe public schools in this State held his mother in highest honor, and in his last will testified that be owed all his good fortune and suc cess in life to her teachings. STEVENS WOEKED HAES. In his early days Stevens was lame and delicate in health. To this fact perhaps may be assigned the devotion of his mother, and the turn of his mind for books. For tunately for him Vermont had public schools sift colleges where students who were willing to grub and toil, and sacrifice delf for the sake of knowledge could be graduated. Iu the college of Dartmouth Thaddeus Stevens finished his course of study. His entrance into Pennsylvania was as a teacher of an academy in York, Here he read law, and when he hung out his shingle as a full-fledged lawyer it was at Gettys burg, made so memorable by one of the great battles of the Civil War. Here we are caught wondering as to why a young man of ereat ability should settle at Gettysburg when so 'many more attractive points were presented for the achievement of success in his chosen pursuit Fancy wanders and wonders if tho afterward famous bachelor had a love affair that drew him to this obscure town. History tells nothing of such, but most young men have their romances, aud It may be that some fair maiden had an influence about this time concerning whom biographers seem to know nothing. AN ELEMENT OE ItTCK. But, while what led nim to Gettysburg has not been made clear, the fact remains that luck seemed to be with him. He grew famous and made a large fortune lor those davs. In court he was a lawyer who was brief, forcible and convincing. He wasted no words, but his plain speaking was power ful with a jury. He haa u ready wit and a great knack of bringing the opposition into ridicule by potent sarcasm. This abil ity to raise a laugh is held to be a most val uable quality in a lawyer, since with the ordinary jury, reason and lor that matter justice are liable any time to be swamped by emotional gush, or a touch of sympathy. But while he was a terror to his brother lawyers in the court room and during a trial, he was genial and affable at other times, and was especially kind to young lawyers just beginning their career. His finelibrary was placed at their disposal, and he was never chary of giving them advice and assistance. When he first took up his residence in Pennsylvania there were no free schools. Only those who could pay for it, or whose parents were competent to teach their chil dren received an education. Those were the days when citizens were not taxed for edu cation and when there was uo disputing about whether they were "godless" or notr nor whether they were immoral or not A HAKD FIGnT. Knowing the value of the public schools in his native State, Stevens was determined to have free schools in Pennsylvania,tliough they were most bitterly opposed. Certain classes were persistent in the old argument, "Let every man take care of his own chil dren," but Stevens fought the battle bravely and persistently, and won. He even voted against the positive in structions ot his clectois at home, and by dint of persuasion aud bulldozing the mem bers of the Iiecislature, he changed the ma jority agiinst the measure into1 its fivor. But whilo his memory will always be connected with the pub lic schools in Pennsylvania, he made himself most famous during the war bv his opposition to slavery and disunion. He was a red-hot "biliu-over" Republican in the days when Sumner and Zach Chandler, and "Galoosh" Grow, and Ben Wade and John Sherman filled the places of Beed and Cannon and McKinley et al. He is'said to have been a firm believer in the old saying thrii "the end justifies the means," and he ruled the House with despotic sway. a tebkob in congress. As the stories go, he was a master hand at speaking daggers aud in the use of censor ious criticism, and woe to the person that incurred his wrath. As is the custom to day, his abuse of his colleagues did not fiud place in the official record's; but while he showed temper on occasion, and had no scruples as to calling a spade a spade, whether parliamentary or not, he was un compromisingly opposed to slavery, nnd worked zealously and perhaps fanatically against the so-called ''divine institution." Like Ingalls, he probably thought the worst Eepubhcan that ever lived was better than the finest and best Democrat Party with him was first, and politics was a war, with the commandments lelt out A Btory illustrative of this side of his character is not published In the Sunday school sketches of bis life. A BUNA-WAT LEGISLAfOE. It seems that while in the State Legisla ture there wu a rumpus about the seating of some members, and the militia hud to be called out to restore order and enforce peace. Stevens, as the story is told, was an en thusiastic Whig, and became tbe leader in an attempt to force a number of illeirallv -elected members of his own party, bv the use of bullets and the virtue of bayonets, into the House to maintain the supremacy of bis party. When this attempt was foiled, it is said Stevens nlade his escape from a back window and Wefit hSfflfi to Gettysburg, where he remained fof several weeks. ( When at last he did get over eating humble pie, and cime back penitently to take tbe oath of office, he was rei'nsed ad mission his seat being declared vacant. But this wits' in his earlier days befqre he had settled in Lincaster, or had taken a prominent position in national politics. AN EXTEElIiST, Like Sumner be put the abolition of slavery before everything else. He had little patience wltirtlle conservatism o' Lin coln, whose mala ideit was to save the Union either with or without slavery. Stevens was in favor of confiscating Southern lands for the benefit of the slaves and the Union soldiers. The amendments to the Constitu tion conferring the right of suffrage to the ignorant colored men atthe South were due largely- to his efforts. Had he not been blinded by partisan zeal his political wis dom would have told him that to pnt the ballot ih the hands of Illiteracy was a dan gerous proceedtbg. But it seems there was at that time a determination on the part of some of the most radical Bepublican mem bers to humiliate the white people of the South. IX Thaddeas Stevens were in the House bossing things as he did in the days of re construction, It would not be surprising if he should honestly reach the conclusion that It would have been better for the former slaves to have had the ballot as an incentive '"to education at least enough of it to under stand what it all meant. However, those were stirring days, and happily the animosities are dying out and giving" way to the nobler arts of peace. The conciliating policy of Lincoln is now ac knowledged to have been wiser than the fiery passion of those whose zeal outran their discretion. Bessie Bk amble. FUff HI THE GLASSES. A Simple Wny for n Uontrss to Make Her Gneata Forset tho Hours. A popular amusement in 'the Bast, says the Detroit Free Press, is the production of melodious sounds from water-filled glass vessels. The Simplicity ol the outfit needed and the requirement of each person to do his share in the entertainment contribute1) largely, no doubt, to the popularity of the amusement When conversation flags, as it is some times prone to do, or even when it does not, the hostess leaves the room to re-enter with a tray bearing a sufficient number of cham pagne glasses and linger bowls to eqmp the company. The glasses are filled at different heights with water, somo to the top and others perhaps a quarter or three parts full. They are placed on a table or on some other firm support, and each euest moistens a finger and proceeds to run it quickly round and round-the rim of the glass. The sounds produced iu this manner are simply won derful and startling, too, to one hearing them for the first time. The larger the number of players the greater the variety of sounds, and tbe thinner the rims of the glass the greater the number of the vibra tions. The finger bowls filled with varying depthsof water produce the deep sounds and the champagne glasses the higher sounds. Thus a party of lour, with a little practice in the quantity of water used, may with the bowls Imitate tbe 'cello and viola, and With the glasses the'first aud second violins. OUIDA'S BEAD? TONGUE. Ilow She Iluhibled n Buttcrflr Attracted bj Her Ito.enlc Appearance. Ouida, with her eccentricities of dress and speech, has a spicy temper. For years it has been Mile, de la Bamce's habit to visit Trou villeand disport herself in thesnrf. She does not mingle with the throng, rarely recog nizes an acquaintance, and, accompanied by her maid, swims, floats and dives with the grace of an accomplished swimmer. She al ways enters the water with her magnificent fleece of gold-colored hair unbound, her white neck and arms exposed, and wearing a conspicuous bathing dress. Mow it chanced one day that a group of Parisian dudes were sunning themselves on the sands as tbe author ot "Stratbmore" came by. There had been some previous talk of the lady and her books, when, in re sponse to a challenge, one of the gilded youths approached, lifted his hat and wished mademoiselle "Bon jour." Without the slightest change of expression Ouida turned to her maid, and, handing her the silk girdle of her bathing gown,' Slid -hi French: "Fifine, take this as a halter and lead tbat escaped ass back to his stable." The famous novelist enjoyed her baths un molested after this. PAT GILIIOBE'S WIT. Hotv Ho Tamed it Into Account In Gettlnff a l'nliio Tickler. St. Lonls Post-Dispatch, j One of the latest stories of Colonel Pat Gilmore is when at Manhattan Beach, where a group of distinguished visitors were awaiting the leader to join them after the concert was over. When he came they moved offas men will do for liquid refresh ments. Bight here it must be stated that Colonel Gilmore never drinks any thing but champagne, he never touches any other liquor. One of the men said to the famous musician: "Colonel Gilmore, we've been laying wagere on ydur name. Some of us uphold that P. S. stands lor 'Patrick Sars field, others that they mean 'Patrick Stephen-,' now what do they really stand for?" v "II I tell you," quickly replied the witty leader, "n ill you st ma it?" "Why of course I'll stand it," replied the other wonderinglv. "Well, they mean 'Pomery Sec.'" The man stood it, to the extent of a basket of wine for the applauding crowd. DIAMONDS IN HEE TEETH. Tho Dcntl.t That Did tho Work Got $300 for Hlii Day's Engagement. From the Philadelphia Times.l Dr. Andersnn, a New York dentist, who plugs up the molars of the Four Hundred, says that he has made 5500 in a day, but only once. A lady came to him who wanted diamonds put in a gold filling of her front teeth. "It was evident" said Dr. Anderson, "that she had just come into her inherit ance. She seemed so anxious to spend monev. X didn't approve of the diamonds and told her so, but she would have them, and I humored her to such an extent that my div's" work netted me 5500. "Whit no I mike ordiuarily? Well, I charge 520 an hour and I rarely work more than five hours. People don't care to come helore ten in the morning, and late iu the aitcrnoon the light is not good. One hun dred dollars a day Is about the extent of what a dentist can make, and it is the most exacting of all tho professions." FASEIOK WITH THE MAOBL The Corset of thp Mlssloonry la Killinc Off New Zoilnm! Women. Farls Edition New Yort Herald. It appears that white women are respon sible for the rapid depopulation! New Zea land. When female missionaries went among the Maoris they insisted that the Maori women should wear clothing. The Jatter could not be induced to overcome their prejudice against skirts, but discover ing that the missionary women wore corsets, they decided that tbe latter was a garment nbt'wholly devoid of merit The result is that every Maori woman now goes about her dally work neatly clad in a corset laced as tightly as tho united efiorts of halt a dozen stalwart warriors can lace It Being nnaccnstonied lo tight lacing the women are dying off with great rapidity, and the repentant lemale missionaries now regret that thev ever asked their d'esky sis ters to consider the question of clothing. CLARA BELLE'S CHAT, Habits that are ilfcpopulating New York Society Circles. A GifiL'S itfiSCttt OB1 UU PdObLB. flow a Pmtj Wife's Complexion Was Spoiled bj lief li&sbdni LACE MAKING IS THE LATEST PAD conEisJortpiNCE or Tiiie dispatch. New Yobk, October 4. MOVING ladies? Certainly. Of at least, women in good .lotbes, with other wise good manners, and with Undoubted good morals, feally have formed the habit ol smoking cigarettes'. I regret this statement be cause a denial of its truth has been made. Do you know that onr Pilgrim fore mothers, those saint ed wives and daugh ters of the chaps who illhstrionslv landed vS if Ji en Plymenth Bock "TV sm k 1 tob-iceo? Not in dainty cigarettes, ' In r, hut in pipes. Not in pretty pipes, eveu, hut in common May ones. Ughl To my mind the smoke of tobacco should be en durable by onr sex only when emitted from the lips of our husbands' of sweethearts. For a refined girl to smoke seems to me out rageous. But I am a historian of tbe phases of femininity which I obsefve in New York, and above all else I seek to be trustworthy. So a contradiction of my assertion that many of our rich and fashionable girls indulge in the cigarrette habit leads me to say it again, and to offer to put it into an affidavit On application. Like the dnde weakling who lelt "real devilish" on ginger ale, tbe dear girls enjoy a consciousness of piqdant recklessness on the mildest cigar ettes they can buy. It is in a spirit of adventure that they smoke, although I sup pose that some of them learn to really enjoy tobacco. THE ODOB STICKS. The consideration that will keep most of us from becoming inveterate smokers, how ever, is the odor. Yon may cleanse your mouth and hands of the tobacco smell as you will, the Bceut of the cigarette will cling to yon still unless you go the trouble of a separate smoking robe. I know & belle, tbe daughter of a Mnrray Hill family, too, who smokes a cigarette on rising and another on retiring; and, while indulging thus, she is enveloped solely and only in a smoking robe, which is kept ih a separate box when not in use, and so her other clothing is not contaminated. She even covers her hair closely with a silk Cap so that tbe odor of to bacco may not get into her "crown of glory." Ahl if our sex were always so nice in their bad habitsi" "Cocktails before breakfastl" The physician who was receiving a band some young society woman in his office ut tered this phrase iu an astonished tone and looked out of his distended eyes at his fair patient ' "Why, yes, doctor," said the young lady. "I have had one or two whisky cocktails be fore breakfast all summer. I really couldn't tat anything without them.' TOO MUCH FOE THE DOCTOE. The young woman was suffering from nervous indigestion, and she declared that her summer at Newport had quite used her np. The physician had already drawn from her the information that it had been her habit to drink considerable wine with her meals, and was not surprisedat it, but the idea of whisky Before breakfast struck him aback. ' And vet I, who am not a physician, am not surprised at tbe voung woman-'s habit, for the reason that I know it to be a bv no means uncommon one among New York fashionable girls who live a draining and depressing lite of festivity. A case came under my observaiion a short time ago that was peculiarly Startling. It Was that of a girl who began during her first season to The Rescue of a Pvodle. stimulate herself up to the required condi tion of mind and body necessary to cope with the exhausting customs tbat she was forced to adopt. At first she took quinine in small doses, but, finding no real excite ment in this, she went on to port wine, sherry, and finally to whisky and brandy. Her brother astonished me one day by as suring me that she required more cocktails in aday than he did, and as I knew tbat he consnmed a dozen a day, I expressed my doubts of bis assertion. COCKTAILS BEEOltE BREAKFAST. "Well," said he, "ir the stairs carpet leading to my sister's room has not been worn out by the maid in running up and downstairs with whjsky cocktails beibre breakfast, then I hope "I may never look into another glass again." For two seasons this girl held her place well, and her faoial loveliness expressed but slightly tbe effect ot the feverish life she was leading. Then ohc seemed to fall off. She grew fat, hut, at the same time, a pale, unhealthy deadness overspread her count-nance, and everybody remarked concern ing her sudden trans ormation. One ifiorn ing I had occasion to call on her brother at a somewhat early hour, and as I sat in the reception room the maid passed along the hall on her wav upstairs bearing on a tray n whisky cocktail At the same instant a shrill.'ini patient voice came from above. "Marii, Marie, for heaven's sake hurrv with that cocktail or I shall shake myself to pieces. Hurry, I say." It was her voice. About a half hour later she came down and I chatted a mo ment with her. Her bauds were trembling and her swollen eyes Were shitting and bloodshot That was two years ago. The girl is dead now. ' MAKING PD.ETTY LACE. I find that the art of lace making is being studied at present by n large number ot fashionable eirls, the object being to make it for one's own wear. There is nothing quite so expensive in a woman's attire as laces, and only a very few women, even in the highest society, are able to exhibit a fine,coIIection. It is -the hope of the girls now studying tbe art that they shall perfect themselves in it to inch (in extent that they may make, for their own and their children's uses, rare and beautiful specimens of the difficult handiwork. ' A i ery handsome black French poodle was prancing down Fifth avenue on a breezy, bright morning, in company, with a fine, straight young woman, whose alert and voluptuous figure, togethef with her hand some face, attracted to her the attention of all passers by. The dog was prodd of bis mistress, nnd the girl was proud of her dog, and the picture made by the two was one ot rare and exqdisite life and beauty. While alt wds peaceful and danger Seeded nowhere nigh, a fickely and creaking coveted wagon, drawn by a pitiable wreck of a horse, and having on its teat two repulsive young men, whose unkempt persons and wolfish faces would proclaim them anywhere as most un desirable citizens, came around the corner ot & side Street Into tbe avenue. THE iJO(J CATCItEB'S WOE. As the wa-Jdn gdt hear to the girl one of the voting td Clan 8 leaped to tbe ground add made a quick plunge for tile dog, catching it by oiie hind leg uhd whirling It above his head in a Circle, tunning as he did so toward the rear of his wagon. Quieter than it takes to say so, the voting woman was in front of the young totigb, with one hand clutching his coat collar and the other Wearing the Carpet Out. holding the muzzle of a small silver-mounted smelling bottle close against his face. "You drop my dog, voti scoundrel, or I'll shoot you," said the girl through her tight clenched teeth. Tbe young fellow peered out of his small eyes into the angry, determined face before him, and as he attempted to shake the girl's hand from his collar, said: "Aw, wot yer given me, anyway. Don't yen see, we're dor dog catchers an'' you ain't got no right ter have yer pdrp out widont a muzzle. Der dog goes along wid u, see?" The girl's face took on a still fiercer and more ominous look. The dog, still in the grasp of the man, was twisting to get away and yelping with pain. "If you do not drop my dog this instant," said the girl, "I will fire a ball square into your ugly facet Do yon hear me?" With these words she gave the dog-catcher a sharp shake, and he dropped the dog, who scampered away to a safe distance and so licited passers-by to go to the assistance of his mistress. By this time people were com ing np to see what the disturbance was, but it was the discomfited dog-catcher who had to explain matters. SHE TESTED HIS NOSTBITMS. A mystery has finally been solved. Mrs. La Blanque was one of a laree family of children. I think there were five daugh ters, and each has always been tamous for her peachy complexion. Mrs. La Blanque, however, has for years been the victim of some cutaneous disorder. Last month La Blanque died and at once tbe widow's com plexion began to clear. "The heartless thing," I think 1 hear you exclaim, "her secret joy made her roseate." Nay. not so. She is grieving for La Blanqne deeply, for she was sincerely attached to him. "Ah," you burst out, "the blenching effects of grief, no doubt" Wrong again. "Well, in ffoodness' name," you replv, snappishly, "what did do the business lor her?" Don't get excited and yon shall hear. It seems that La Blanque a fact which the pretty Madge was ignorant of was for years a silent partner in a firm of soap and lace powder manufacturers, and that La Blanque,this fiend in later, grease and dust, has been.sinotj his marriage to the pink and pearl damsel, secretly experimenting upon ber once tuatobless skin with tbe various lotions, powders, unguents, balms, creams, soaps, washes, vinegars, tinctnres, pastes, depilatories, enamels, ointments and cos metics produced by bis firm. Tho question which I am now revolving in my mind is whether that man who tickled bis wife to death for tbe simple pleasure of hearing her laugh or La Ulanque, who,in his mad desire to test the emcacy of his nostrums, came so near destroying bis wife's complexion is de serving of my greater resentment I incline to regard La Blanque as the villain of the deeper dye. Claba Belle. FOOUHQ IHHOCEKT WIVES. An Eastern Scheme Which Only Cost a l'aitil Card to One's Self. The Holyoke Transcript says two well knawn citizens were UTJnding together in the corridor of the postoffioe. One hap pened to notice that a postal card held in the fingers of the other was directed to the bolder. "Why, how does this come?" was asked; "do you tfrite letters to yourself?" "In this case, yes," was the answer. "That's funny." "Well not so very. See the other side.' He held it up and the other read: "Bro. Blank There will be a meeting of the I. O. O. S. B.. No. 237, at the hall, the evening ot June 20, to trans ict special busi ness. Members not present will be fined $15. "J. B. , Secretary." "Yes; but I don't exactly catoh on," pro tested the innocent. "O, you don't! Well, I got the cards printed myself. The society is all a myth. When I want to go ont of an evening I di rect one of these postals to my house. When I reach home tuy wife hands ittome with a sigh. I oiler to stay at home add stand the fine of $19, but she won't hare it that way. That' all, my friend, exceptthat the scheme is worked by hundreds of others and our poor, deluded wives haven't tumbled to the racket yet" It is too bad to give this away,but it is too good to keep. TEC STEAM LIFEBOAT. Great Hope for.lt access 00 Stormy Connts of fio Sen. A lively discussion tooE place be ore the British Association on tho advantages and drawbacks of the first steam lifeboat which has been constructed in England. Sir James Douglas was of opinion tbat the new boat would inlfill its promise. In Spite of the necessary sacrifice of speed cansed by the hydraulic system of propulsion, the boat was fast and powerful enough to deal with a heavy sea and an adverse gale. Be sides this, she had stability and self-righting; qualities which were o: the utmost value. Another important feature, Sir James said, was the maneuvering proper ties when alongside a wreck. Lifeboat men were of the opinion that no steam ves sel could be sueces'ul in this respect, but according, to his view the two jets employed would solve the problem. Another speaker snid that during some trials at Harwich the boat had been run in a ranch sea, although not so rough at it would have to contend with in ordinary winter work. They had tested, as iur at possible, the properties of the boat in maneuvering alongside a wreck. The results had been satis actory, but the test of actual work alone would be conclu sive. Comfort for the fllnrlner. .There are brighter prospects iu view for the marine. He is not only to have better sleeping nccommodatious, better foot gear and other improvements in his uniform, bat his ration, the bone of contention for ninny years, is to be improved and increased, and orders have been given to tbat effect by the Secretary of the Navy. j In Sit 1 1 II PI BtwWVWI" .- - Aa wll COOKING THE ONIOtf. Dozens of Ways of Preparing the Vegetable for the Table. HOW TO 8ERYB IT WITH MEATS. Used in Combination With Tomatoes, (" cambers and the Like. BLL1CE BEEENA'S DSEFDL BECIPE3 .JirwitrrrxH ion tub dispatcb.1 Last week I had something to say about the much-abused onion. If the traducers of this Innocent Vegetable are treated to dishes prepared after the manner described below, they will surely change their opinions: escaloped okions. Put to boil, in hard water, if possible.jslx or eight medium-sized onions; when they have boiled for a few minutes change the water, add fteSh cold water and boll rapidly till tender, which will be in about one hoar. Drain in a colander, Separate the onions into flakes, and place In a baking dish In alternate layers with bread crumbs ending with a layer bf bread crumbs. Heat a capful of Cream, add a lamp of batter, season to taste, pour over the onions and baka until lightly browned. OSIOSS AITD TOSTATOXS. Cot from the loar slices of bread about half ah inch thick, spread generously with fresh butter, and lay in tbe bottom of a baking-dlsn. Add a layer of onions and tomatoes, out in thin slice, season with salt and pepper; then a layer of bread and butter, topped with onions and tomatoes. Corer with grated bread, season and dot With bits of buffer. Bake in a slow oven for thirty minutes. FK1ED ONIONS. Peel tbe onions, cat into thin, even slices, and fry brown In hot batter. Season with salt and pepper. OPTIONS WITH CALF'S LIVIK. Binse a piece of calf's liver with colli water, wipe dry, cut in neat slices and dredge with, flour.. Cut three or four slices of sweet breakfast bacon, trim neatly, and fry until the edges be gin to curl, when It may be taken Irom the pan and put where It will keep warm. Cnt some onions in tbia slices and fry la tha bacon drippings until brown. Put tbe onions with tbe bacon. Lay the liver In tbe hot drippings and add a little latd. or more drippings, to keep the liver soft while frjine. Arrange the bacon and liver In alternate slices, with bet and there a spoonful ol onions. Add a spoonful of flour to the ETavy la tbo pan, pour in water, and when thick a rich cream squeeze in a little lemon juice, and sea son to taste. The gravy may be poured over the meat or served in a tureen, i ojioit SAitDwicn. Spread good sweet bread with fresh buttert lay between the slices some minced onion, of mild flavor, sprinked with salt. If troubled with Insomnia try an onion sand wich at bedtime. A very palatable sandwich is made from sliced onions and tomatoes, seasoned to taste, and placed between thin cats of buttered bread. BOILED OSIONS AHD CEZAil SACOE. Skin about two dozen small whits onions, drop them into boiling, salted water, cook until tender and drain. Put in a stew pan a pint of rich milk; when it comes to tho boil stir In two tablcspoonfuls of batter and oae sf flour, mixed together. Season with salt and pepper and simmer for a few minutes. EAEES OSIOSS STOITED. Select Spanish onions of uniform size. Cover with plenty of water and boil rapidly lor near ly an hour. Put Into a colander to drain, then into a bak log dish. Scoop ont the centers and fill with well seasoned bread crumbs, moistened with milk or beaten ens. Straw tbe whole with bread crmnbs and small pieces of batter. Bake slowly for one horn-in a moderate oven, and serve with onion sauce. ONIO.XSAND BEEFSTEAK. Balect a good porterhouse or sirloin steak, three-qaartsrs of an inch thick, place on a greased gridiron and broil for twelve minutes, tarnina: Irequently. Place on a warm platter, add a lamp of bat ter, (spread in bits on tbe steak) season with Salfand pepper and cover vtith thinly Bhced onions, fried In hot batter prepared while the stem is broiling. TO STEW OXIOXS BROWS'. Remove tbe sLins. being careful not to cut the onions: place them la a stew-pan la one layer; cover with rich beef gravy and simmer slowly fur two hours. Thev should ba perfectly tender and un broken. 05I0N SAUCE. Peel the onions, boil iu plenty of water and whan quite tender turn into a colander to drain: then pat la the saace-pan, mash fine, season with saltand pepper, add melted batter and some rich milk. CREAMED 0310:73. Use small white onions, remove tha skins and throw info boiling water with a little salt Whon tender drain in a colander, return to the sanca pan with two tablespoonfuls ot bat ter. Shake gently for a few minutes, add a little cream, a dredge of flour and salt and pepper to taste. ONION BOUI. Peil eight or ton good-sized onions, cut In thin slices and fry until lightly browned In hot batter or drippings. lam the onions into the soap-pot, cover with one pint and a half of water and two quarts of rich milkT" Mince two or three raw potatoes, and add to the soup: set the pot on acronnt of the milk into a vessel of boiling water, and when ths potatoes are cooked, season with salt and pepper, stir in a cupful of cream, and serve. PICKLED ONIONS. Tbo small white onions are used for pickling. Peel them and throw into a crock of salt water. .Let stand for two days, and change ths water once daring the soaking. Drain, pack In jars or bottles with a few small red peppers, and cover with scalding hot vinegar, spiced to taste. Close tbe jars or bottles when the vinegar is cold, and put them In a dry place. Large onions may be cut in slices, packed In ajar, sprinkled with salt and cayenno pepper or minced red pepper, and covered with cold Vinegar. They will be St to use in about four weeks. Onions and cucumbers, and onions and tomatoes, by common usage, are commended as salads. Onions form one of tbe chief ingredients in Italian cookery. A very common and favorite dish among them is onions and plenty of them cooked with macaroni. Ellice Skbkxa, THKV OWNED TEE SHOP. Hotr Two Covr Took Possession and StasM peded the Occupants. An occurrence of a singn'ar character was witnessed not long since in one oi the thor oughfares of Leeds. While a drove of cat tle were passing one of their number sud denly took fright and ran into a workshop iu the neighborhood, in which a number of persons were then employed. It made its way upstairs into the workroom, and natur ally created considerable alarm among those who happened to be there. Every device had to be resorted to for their protection, but before the first beast could be driven out another was 911 its way upstairs. This one could get no further than halfway up the staircase, with the re sult that the passage between the workshop and the street was blocked, and neither the beuston the stairs nor the other that was above conld be driven ofi the premises for same time. Eventually ropes were pro cured, and by their means the beast on ths staircase was fint pulled up into the room and subsequently hauled down info tbe street. Tbe other was got into tbe street by a similar process, bnt not before the work shop they had seized possession of had been completely deranged and its occupants eon siderably alarmed. Wlix Trade Is DolL Atchison Olotrt.l A great many men downtown are like tbe boy at school. He spends the time from 9 to 10 111 getting started, and from 11 to 12 in ,wntchlng the clock for tbe time when school will ba ont H'rom 10 to 11 is the time ha dors nnything, and then he does very little. He grows up to be tbe kind of a man who is always howling about dull times, and who wonders why business is so peer. m L V v r & .& VftJ.J5t.(Us a... . . - . -, V4 J1, rF O'-tnTllfll ltlif 1W :f&&Mi2i&iti .Ufefe- ..t . . - ---"n-fTiril i
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers