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THE PITTSBURG
X5ISPATCH,
SUNDAY, OCTOBER" 5,. 1890.
K7Mi
COLD WEATHER FASHIONS.
Bklrlcy Pare Tells How Women of Sense
Are Fizioc Their Wardrobes Hnftdsomt)
Fnhdrs In Furs and Rnben Shoes for
Iaeln.lic l'aemrrt ami floors.
rwriTTEx fob tub DisrAifH.1
A welcome coolness in the wind promises
frost the blessed frost whose touch exor
cises from the nir foulness and disease,
'which destroys odors of swamp and street
and sends a thrill of life into weakened
frames. Two things the world wobld be very
ill off without the east wind and frost the
the two angels of health which counteract
malaria and plague.
They bring out the fur capes earlv and
sensibly, for when'is cold more felt than
when it firt comes? The stylish, reserved
wearers like the coats in the softest thick
wool, light as eider flannel, with dull, fine
finish. Simply fitted in the back, the nar
row, single froiilslookslenderwithnutdarts,
and a thick cloth looks hunliiiply fitted to
the but anvhow at best. A princess or a
woman of exclusive taste would choose one
of thee fine coats, with lone revers, braided
with the cord that is not much more than
coarse sewinsr silk on revers, collar and nar
row cuff, leaving the braided sleeveopopn
laritv which will immediately vulgarize it
HATS AKD DOAS THIS AUTUMN'.
To this coat the lair wearer will add the
boa of thickly curled or sheared feathers, or
the glossv conk's plumage, which is rather
the choice for its effect in throwing up the
whiteness of the complexion above it Alasl
thee pretty feather boas are forbidden to
round face and short tiironts, which remind
one or a Christmas pudding round and
unctuous in its wreath of holly while long
laces with cheek tat have lost their full-
Mantle With rcather Trimmings.
ness wear these feathery coils with a kindly
-Tract'. There is sene in these fashions re-
peat "it ror the light, warm protection for I
throat and iront will save many a weas '
chest from feeling tbe keen air which would
leave one delicate lor the winter.
The felt hat for town mornings is the boat
shape with brim upturned in the back and
front jut tne width to relieve features fallen
off in plumpness without making them look
spare id contrast to their span of roof. Ash
gray feltn with rich loops of black velvet,
cocks' plumes and scale embroidery in jet
are the choice tor street costume. Park
hats, with low crown and broad brim, come
in natural grav rough felt and fur plush,
with long plumes ir. Charles II. style. Fine
French trfts have the brims buttonhole
stitched with fine arrasene and chenille em
broiderr on the broad fronts or embroidery
and cutwerk veined with chenille.
GOWNS TO BE "WOKS'.
Gowns run to cut work and applique, tne
finest serges in terra reds, bishop's purple.
and Crmehls grays having borders ot vel
vet applique, or velvet bands with flowers
and rococo borlers cut from the cloth and
applied with fine cord edging. These and
the superb plaids in silky camel's hair and
deep, sott Starris and Shetland wools are the
most striking fabrics ot the fortnight The
Macduff tartan, in its deep crimson with
dark green bar, is the most sumptuous color
ing of tli Scotch plaids. The lancy pat-
A Pretty Joiner.
terns which combine deep, rich mist-purples
with grav and russet bars, or green an d gold,
are so delightful in the shop windows one
regrets to think of tlicra mismade, tambled
aud worn by the wrong woman. They are
to be worn as drapery solely, in shoulder
Tilaids, which are their real purpose, anvi in
plain skirts with broad side pleats, draped
fronts and fullness gathered closely in the
back.
Mrs. T. V. desires to know whether hijTh
sleeves are in correct taste, as she has sei-n
them criticised for making persons look
round backed. A moderate high shouldeV
nnd sleeve are anatomically correct, as they
give natural play to the muscles ot the
shoulder, while a broad .shoulder cut brings,
tbe seam directly across the curve of the
muscle. The high-topped sleeve is gro
tesque, and looks as if it were striving to
give the ears a flap, and when the fullness
is carried back at all it gives a pitifnl effect
of bow tboalders. A good form has tbe
shoulder blades flat a; tbe wall, and a back
Sat lor its length, sire so. inward hollow at I
the waist, is one of the cardinal points of
beauty.
The warm autumn brings out the fashions
for dress so slowly that one is thanklnl for
more time to make the house ready for
changes of weather, and provide the Com
forts with due forethought.
TALL frOOT WEAE.
First of all, delicate people must be well
shod for changing seasons. Before the need
oi warmer clothing is felt, the damp chill
striking through the leet is felt through
limbs and body, stiffening the cords and the
P'
A Tall Hat.
gait, fostering a general ache of the muscles
which tends to anything but Usefulnees of
feeling. What is to be done? To wear rub
bers constantly is only another form of the
evil, for the leet cased in their own warm
moisture get dangerously chilled on taking
rubbers off.
The sa'e thing is to have a rubber soled
shoe, which leaves the upper part of the
foot dry and free to the air. I never expect
to see again the eminentlv sensible walking
shoe which appeared in Boston shops six
years since, which had a rubber sole inlaid
on the tread, which was the most elastic,'
comfortable shoe lor country walks, garden
ing and snowy days one could ask. There
were no rheumatics from digging in flower
borders or pacing damp October walks with
those boots, I promise you. The trouble
was they were too good, for that one pair
isiA worn out to this day, and so they were
taken out oi sale for the benefit of poorer
stock. But one can have a sole cut out of
thin, pure rubber and cemented to a thin
boot for 50 or lo cents a pair and s ive eud
less internal troubles from cold feet Do
you know how much easier living is with
feet duly shod with elastic soles? The case
of getting about on them took a third one's
weight off. Who can estimate the relief to
back, sinews and leg muscles?
IMPOBTANCE OF SOUD SHOEING.
All drivers know that city streets aud
pavements wear out the feet and strength of
horses ar sooner tnan tne country roaa-.
Are pavements and floors any kinder to
women? I don't believe any one who reads
ever thought about it, but the constant
stepping about uou-elastic floors and Side
walks must wear creatly on the limited
strength of women. Earth gives, the
mountain sou is clastic, the wooaianu, tne
grassy turf yield and save the foot which
ireaus mem,
Tiles, marble, stone, cement, oilcloth do
not gie way, and all the impact of the
tread returns upon the muscles and nerves
in a cruel way. This constant jarring, un
noticed at first, works strange mischief in
women's organisms, and the cause is seldom
suspected. Wood floors and sole leather
heels are elastic beside stone pavements and
metal heels, but not sufficiently so. One
feels the difference very soon in "climbing
iron or stone stairways, which take the lite
out of the step strangely, and I pray never
will become common for the sake of human-
Lalest Shapes for Fall Sals.
ity, which wastes itself upon them. But to
know tbe luxury of looting, and how much
relief i possible to the strain of life never
dreamed of, one should put on the new shoes
with elastic seam. It is just a little thing,
an egbth of an inch or less of pure rubber
let in at the ball of the foot, between sole
and upper, invisible, detracting nothing
from the fit of as shapely shoes as are sold,
but making all the difference of ease and
springy step, and taking the strain cfi so
many painful muscles.
MUTE SUFFEEING.
Housekeepers, clerks, car drivers and
floor walkers know what it is to feel that
every step drives the heel into a socket of
sore flesh about the ankle, and that again
eenus me uone ui me ujipcr itrg against me
hip socket with a jar that tells painfully on
the sore and quivering flesh of the front and
back muscles of tbe trunk. I am not writ
ing anatomically 60 much as telling .how
walking feels on unelastic floors and pave
ments, though of inlaid woods, marble or
iliuton tiles. A great deal of suffering
goes on in onr costly thoroughfares in mute
endurance. Mute, because no one can pity
who has cot felt the pain. I know it, have
known it vear after year, and can appre
ciate the relief, the saving of muscle which
these rubber additions to the sole afford.
With them a new shoe leels easy as a shoe a
year old, and as the shoes at 53 50 a pair are
as finely finished, as trim shape and fine kid
as commonly sell for $5 and $7 a pair, you
will see I am trying to tell you of a really
good thing.
This is not the last improvement in foot
gear 1 have to tell of. Have you ever no
ticed tbe accidents which happen on the
marble and inlaid floors of shops as well as
on slippery ice? There is not a day that
people do not measure their length on the
smooth marble, or slip and brinz ud with a
strain that wrenches every ligament of their
bodies. Add to this the dreadful slipping
of heels worn smooth on the edge of stepJ or
thresholds with shock and wrench, and yon
have quite a list of risks to run before the
ice sets in with its dangers to lire and limb.
SATETT FOE WALKEES.
There is a ladies' coffee room I know
whose marble floor is a nervous horror to
customers with its slippery surface, and I
have had-eo many shocks of tbe sort Kith
lasting injury, that seeing the sign of "Kuo
ber safety heels" in a basement shop win
dow I dived far them at once. The inven
tion consists of a block of pure flexible rub
ber Jet into the heel so as to save the wearof
leather, slipping and jar of spine. Though
a dollar for a pair of heels feems rather an
addition to the cost of shoes, personsjibhged
to he close economists find nothing so well
worth the money, hardly more for the safety
than the spinal relief id walking.
Dr. Bowditch, of Boston, as widely and
well known as any physician in this coun
try, is quoted as saying half the spine dis
ease be meets is caused or aggravated .by
high, hard heels, and has given the rubber
heel his emphatio commendation. "With
all possible respect to the doctor, however,
those who try the rubber attachment to
shoes need no other commendation than
their own much relieved spines.
COLD WEATHER GARMENTS.
jFrom feet to head is but at step in shop
ping, and the last continenal styles re
ceived since this letter show opened
figures in one illustration which have the
chenille embroidered felts untrimmed, and
two really graceful trimmed ones beside the
sailor, to which wearers cling in felt
The long cloak, figured Id rich lampas
with velvet stripes and ostrich bordering
for theater, is an excellent model for cold
weather, in thick camels' hair or the silky
winter cheviot in chevron weaving, that is,
with reversed stripes. The border is not in
dispensable, still for the cape it may be a
narrow edge of astrakhau or fur, with-foot
border of deep astrakhan or fluffy beaver.
The little ostrich collar is Very pretty, and
bright girls will quickly see use for their
spare bits of ostrich feathers sewn on a satin
foundation. The huge trimmed felt bonnet
shows the long velvet slrings lo be Worn.
Observe, too. the neat dressing of the throats
in these bonneted heads the straight or
nearly straght velvet collars, surmounted by
a finish of white; either a fold of silk on the
narrow linen collar with points or in cleri
cal round shape, and the brooch worn ef
fectively on the velvet The close bodice of
the bonneted figure shows the best style of
shoulder for the winter sleeves, the Princess
style, as that lad v of sovereign good taste,
the Princess of Wales, prefers them.
SninLET Dake.
ENGLISH WOMEN'S FEET.
A Bootmaker Refers to tbe Princess
of
Wales n a Model.
Fall Mall Bndget
We Englishwomen have allowed foreigfl
ers to ridicule what they call our big, ugly
feet, without uttering even a meek protest
up to now. It's about time we spoke up for
ourselves, one would think. I asked a Bond
street bootmaker whether Englishwomen
really hid worse-loosing feet than the
women of other nations, or whether it wasn't
all nonsense to say they had. He said it
was a difficult matter to decide, and the less
said about it the better.
"But," he added, "to be quite candid
with you, I am afraid some of you have
rather ungainly feet. I. judge from some of
the specimens I see here. A few of the
highest dames in the land come to me for
their boots. I often wish they would take
the Princess of Wales for their model in
this matter, like they do in most things re
lating to dress. Tbe Princess has as shapely
a foot as it's possible to find, although it is
by no means a small loot, mind you. Now,
it the Princess believed in screwing up her
feet I dare say she could get them into
fours. But she is too sensible, and sixes are
her size iu boots. The Princess has a
rather long, narrow foot, without protuber
ances of an v sort. Then the Princess never
goes in for immoderate heels."
FANCIES FOE THE FATS.
The latest Parisian bonnet Is heart-shaped.
A pleasant manner attracts a man; bright
ness of brain holds him.
It Is wonderful what a fancy there is at the
moment for black ta gowns. '
Skirts of ultra-fashionable walking dresses
sweep the ground in the back.
Women f requontly choose the wall paper for
their sittitig rooms to go with their complex
ions. (
JIiep.ors with quaint old framos are beine
sought out in attics and draped with a breadth
of rich gleainiug stuff to adorn dressing rooms.
A EOANDAI.SIONOEE Is a person who talks
to our neighbor about us. An entertaining
talker is a person who tells us mean stones
about our neighbors.
Many of the cloth jackets are of such rich
quality and so handsomely decorated that
they will be ontirely appropriate for dress oc
casions and for carriage uses.
It begins to seem that American women
have been so flattered about their attainments
that they are falling into a state ot overwheen
inc vanity, sajs a writer in an English ex
change. The Empress of China is said to have two
wonderful mirrors recently presented by the
Emperor, standing 15 feet high, in carved rose
wood frames, and so heavy that it requires 16
men to carry them.
Mrs. ilAQiLUCttDDT Do you know the
"Song of the Shirt?" Airs. Shakem No; but
since my husband has been going to tbe Home
wood races, 1're learned that the son;; of bis
trousers is, "There is no Chauge In Me."
A prominent New York physician says the
constant chewing of gum has produced weak
minds in 14 cases of young girls now under
treatment, tbe constant movement ot the mouth
causing tco great a strain on the head.
The woman of fashion who burns midnigh
oil does it in most dainty style at present Her
night lamp, if she has tho newest, will be a
vase of ioal Worcester mounted in silver,
wuh shade of perforated silver lined with am
ber class.
The English newspapers are praising Lady
Lambert for her accuracy of aim, as well as for
her skill in deer stalking. For the second timo
this reason she has brought down a noble sue
while stalking in Abeiuetny Forest. The last
one weighed about 14 stone.
One of tho daintiest bits of feminine finery
for winter wear Is the feather boa. which
reaches to the hem of the skirt The flues of
tbe feathers are tightly curled, and tho boa,
when tied close about the neck, is exceedingly
becoming," oven to the plainest face.
Batin will be worn more than usual for even
ing gowns this winter. This material has been
out of fashion for some time. It got into baa
oaor when tbe cheap cotton-backed imitations
were broug&t out. since then it has been
looked upon as tawdry and commonplace.
Men are less stingy than women with their
turned-off clothes. A valet is allowed to dis
pose of his master's discarded finery as be
chooses. Gat women with fortunas to dress on
save up all their left-oif gowns for the old
clothes dealer, and tho highest bidder gets
them.
Miss Abigail Podge, better known as Qail
Hamilton, conducts a Bible talk in Secretary
Blaine's drawing room at Washington on Sun
day afternoons. Her audience ii usually com
posed of members of tbe so-called American
court Mrs. Harrison not infrequently being
present
In the new color card for the winter season,
which contains 68 shades, helitropes have been
given the best places, a proof that these will be
favorite shade daring the coming season.
Bines come next in number, while tbe repre
sentatives of tbe green and red families have
taken back scats and will be rather neglected.
. THE Empress of Russia, who has long been
a victim to nervous prostration, is recovering
her health and her spirits, although she is yet
Intensely frightened when in a railway train.
By way ot amusement she prints tbe Em
peror's letters for him on a typewriter, which
an enterprising American has Placed in the
palace.
Ten dollars is a small sum, yet what a new
world for women it opens if It be invested in
photographic apparatus? Women's keenly de
veloped instinct for tbe decorative and pictur
esque; their delight in tho mere manipulation
of fragile objects, and their patience, all find
in photography a congenial sphere; hat what is
better stilt its practice dues not interfere with
domestic duties and pleasures.
170 EEFEEENCE TO HTM.
A Man Who Was Very Much Affected by a
Sermon About a Killing:.
Chteago Tribune.
A thin, nervons looking man stepped up
to the pastor as the latter came down from
tbe pulpit "You have had a good deal to
Bay this morninc,"he observed, "about a
feller that killed a man named Abel."
"Certainly," replied the pastor. " 'The
Sin of Cain' was the subject of my dis
course." I wish't you'd do me the favor next Sdn
day," said the thin man, in some excite
ment, "to tell the folks that the man yon
was talking about this morning ain't no re
lation to the Kane that keeps a livery stable
down by the gristmill. I don't want none
of my friends to think that I had a hand iu
thatiillia'. Ihat'sall. Goodday."
A MASTER IN 1I1S DAY.
Something About tbe Character and
Career of Thad, Stevens.
HIS FIGHT FOR FKEB SCHOOLS.
An Tyrannical a Knler in Legislative Halls
as Speaker Reed.
TE1B0TE3 TO BIS HOMER'S WOBTlI
tWWTTElr r6n thx DISPATCH. I
The children of Pennsylvania should be
taught to honor the memory of Ibaddeus
Stevens, by whose strennons efforts its pub
lic schools were established. He appre
ciated the Advantages of knowledge to the
poor. He had come up frum the depth of
poverty himself, and owed his education to
the free schools of Vermont, where he grew
up amid the straits and struggles of a nar
row home in whieh the mother was the
bread winner and care taker of a family of
fonr boys,
Of his father little Is known, save that he
Shouldered his musket and went to the wSfcJ
In 1812. when he was killed in battle. His
mother, who sacrificed herself for her chil
dren, who toiled early and late for their wel
faie, who raised their ambition and incited
them to good aud virtuous lives, must have
been a woman of uncommon ability and
notable enersy. Thaddeus all his life testi
fied to her nobility ot nature, -and her am
ple powers of mind. Wheh he had become
a tdah hud could look back upon his youth
with experienced eyes and knowledge of
mankind, he did not hesitate to solemnly
record that what he was and whatever good
fortune and reputation he had secured in
his career in life was due to her and to her
counsels.
HONORED HEE MEMORY.
It is pleasinir to know from his biography
that as he grew prosperous he made ample
provision for her comfort, gave a liberal be
quest to tne church She loved and ielt a
fund to provide that her last resting place
should be carefully guarded, and that "roses
and other cheerlul flowers" should be
planted around her grave every summer.
Such love many men feel, but there are
also many who fail to express their appre
ciation of tbe tlreless.bouudless mother-love,
which year in and year out guarded them
from evil, and pived the wav fnr their suc
cess in life, until the clods cover the cold
form which, when alive, had an eye and a
heart single and alone to their interests.
When life is gone they "acknowledge the
debt, but of what avail when the loving
heart, which so longed for appreciation
when living, is silent in tbe grave. It is a
lesson all children might betbebetter Tor
learning that the father of'tKe public
schools in this State held his mother in
highest honor, and in his last will testified
that be owed all his good fortune and suc
cess in life to her teachings.
STEVENS WOEKED HAES.
In his early days Stevens was lame and
delicate in health. To this fact perhaps
may be assigned the devotion of his mother,
and the turn of his mind for books. For
tunately for him Vermont had public
schools sift colleges where students who
were willing to grub and toil, and sacrifice
delf for the sake of knowledge could be
graduated. Iu the college of Dartmouth
Thaddeus Stevens finished his course of
study.
His entrance into Pennsylvania was as a
teacher of an academy in York, Here he
read law, and when he hung out his shingle
as a full-fledged lawyer it was at Gettys
burg, made so memorable by one of the
great battles of the Civil War. Here we are
caught wondering as to why a young man
of ereat ability should settle at Gettysburg
when so 'many more attractive points were
presented for the achievement of success in
his chosen pursuit Fancy wanders and
wonders if tho afterward famous bachelor
had a love affair that drew him to this
obscure town. History tells nothing of such,
but most young men have their romances,
aud It may be that some fair maiden had an
influence about this time concerning whom
biographers seem to know nothing.
AN ELEMENT OE ItTCK.
But, while what led nim to Gettysburg
has not been made clear, the fact remains
that luck seemed to be with him. He grew
famous and made a large fortune lor those
davs. In court he was a lawyer who was
brief, forcible and convincing. He wasted
no words, but his plain speaking was power
ful with a jury. He haa u ready wit and
a great knack of bringing the opposition
into ridicule by potent sarcasm. This abil
ity to raise a laugh is held to be a most val
uable quality in a lawyer, since with the
ordinary jury, reason and lor that matter
justice are liable any time to be swamped
by emotional gush, or a touch of sympathy.
But while he was a terror to his brother
lawyers in the court room and during a
trial, he was genial and affable at other
times, and was especially kind to young
lawyers just beginning their career. His
finelibrary was placed at their disposal, and
he was never chary of giving them advice
and assistance.
When he first took up his residence in
Pennsylvania there were no free schools.
Only those who could pay for it, or whose
parents were competent to teach their chil
dren received an education. Those were the
days when citizens were not taxed for edu
cation and when there was uo disputing
about whether they were "godless" or notr
nor whether they were immoral or not
A HAKD FIGnT.
Knowing the value of the public schools
in his native State, Stevens was determined
to have free schools in Pennsylvania,tliough
they were most bitterly opposed. Certain
classes were persistent in the old argument,
"Let every man take care of his own chil
dren," but Stevens fought the battle bravely
and persistently, and won.
He even voted against the positive in
structions ot his clectois at home, and by
dint of persuasion aud bulldozing the mem
bers of the Iiecislature, he changed the ma
jority agiinst the measure into1 its
fivor. But whilo his memory will
always be connected with the pub
lic schools in Pennsylvania, he
made himself most famous during the war
bv his opposition to slavery and disunion.
He was a red-hot "biliu-over" Republican
in the days when Sumner and Zach Chandler,
and "Galoosh" Grow, and Ben Wade and
John Sherman filled the places of Beed and
Cannon and McKinley et al. He is'said to
have been a firm believer in the old saying
thrii "the end justifies the means," and he
ruled the House with despotic sway.
a tebkob in congress.
As the stories go, he was a master hand at
speaking daggers aud in the use of censor
ious criticism, and woe to the person that
incurred his wrath. As is the custom to
day, his abuse of his colleagues did not fiud
place in the official record's; but while he
showed temper on occasion, and had no
scruples as to calling a spade a spade,
whether parliamentary or not, he was un
compromisingly opposed to slavery, nnd
worked zealously and perhaps fanatically
against the so-called ''divine institution."
Like Ingalls, he probably thought the
worst Eepubhcan that ever lived was better
than the finest and best Democrat Party
with him was first, and politics was a war,
with the commandments lelt out A Btory
illustrative of this side of his character is
not published In the Sunday school sketches
of bis life.
A BUNA-WAT LEGISLAfOE.
It seems that while in the State Legisla
ture there wu a rumpus about the seating
of some members, and the militia hud to be
called out to restore order and enforce peace.
Stevens, as the story is told, was an en
thusiastic Whig, and became tbe leader in
an attempt to force a number of illeirallv
-elected members of his own party, bv the
use of bullets and the virtue of bayonets,
into the House to maintain the supremacy
of bis party. When this attempt was
foiled, it is said Stevens nlade his escape
from a back window and Wefit hSfflfi to
Gettysburg, where he remained fof several
weeks. (
When at last he did get over eating
humble pie, and cime back penitently to
take tbe oath of office, he was rei'nsed ad
mission his seat being declared vacant.
But this wits' in his earlier days befqre he
had settled in Lincaster, or had taken a
prominent position in national politics.
AN EXTEElIiST,
Like Sumner be put the abolition of
slavery before everything else. He had
little patience wltirtlle conservatism o' Lin
coln, whose mala ideit was to save the Union
either with or without slavery. Stevens
was in favor of confiscating Southern lands
for the benefit of the slaves and the Union
soldiers. The amendments to the Constitu
tion conferring the right of suffrage to the
ignorant colored men atthe South were due
largely- to his efforts. Had he not been
blinded by partisan zeal his political wis
dom would have told him that to pnt the
ballot ih the hands of Illiteracy was a dan
gerous proceedtbg. But it seems there was
at that time a determination on the part of
some of the most radical Bepublican mem
bers to humiliate the white people of the
South.
IX Thaddeas Stevens were in the House
bossing things as he did in the days of re
construction, It would not be surprising if
he should honestly reach the conclusion
that It would have been better for the former
slaves to have had the ballot as an incentive
'"to education at least enough of it to under
stand what it all meant.
However, those were stirring days, and
happily the animosities are dying out and
giving" way to the nobler arts of peace. The
conciliating policy of Lincoln is now ac
knowledged to have been wiser than the
fiery passion of those whose zeal outran their
discretion. Bessie Bk amble.
FUff HI THE GLASSES.
A Simple Wny for n Uontrss to Make Her
Gneata Forset tho Hours.
A popular amusement in 'the Bast, says
the Detroit Free Press, is the production of
melodious sounds from water-filled glass
vessels. The Simplicity ol the outfit needed
and the requirement of each person to do
his share in the entertainment contribute1)
largely, no doubt, to the popularity of the
amusement
When conversation flags, as it is some
times prone to do, or even when it does not,
the hostess leaves the room to re-enter with
a tray bearing a sufficient number of cham
pagne glasses and linger bowls to eqmp the
company. The glasses are filled at different
heights with water, somo to the top and
others perhaps a quarter or three parts full.
They are placed on a table or on some other
firm support, and each euest moistens a
finger and proceeds to run it quickly round
and round-the rim of the glass. The sounds
produced iu this manner are simply won
derful and startling, too, to one hearing
them for the first time. The larger the
number of players the greater the variety of
sounds, and tbe thinner the rims of the
glass the greater the number of the vibra
tions. The finger bowls filled with varying
depthsof water produce the deep sounds and
the champagne glasses the higher sounds.
Thus a party of lour, with a little practice
in the quantity of water used, may with the
bowls Imitate tbe 'cello and viola, and With
the glasses the'first aud second violins.
OUIDA'S BEAD? TONGUE.
Ilow She Iluhibled n Buttcrflr Attracted bj
Her Ito.enlc Appearance.
Ouida, with her eccentricities of dress and
speech, has a spicy temper. For years it has
been Mile, de la Bamce's habit to visit Trou
villeand disport herself in thesnrf. She does
not mingle with the throng, rarely recog
nizes an acquaintance, and, accompanied by
her maid, swims, floats and dives with the
grace of an accomplished swimmer. She al
ways enters the water with her magnificent
fleece of gold-colored hair unbound, her
white neck and arms exposed, and wearing
a conspicuous bathing dress.
Mow it chanced one day that a group of
Parisian dudes were sunning themselves on
the sands as tbe author ot "Stratbmore"
came by. There had been some previous
talk of the lady and her books, when, in re
sponse to a challenge, one of the gilded
youths approached, lifted his hat and
wished mademoiselle "Bon jour." Without
the slightest change of expression Ouida
turned to her maid, and, handing her the
silk girdle of her bathing gown,' Slid -hi
French: "Fifine, take this as a halter and
lead tbat escaped ass back to his stable."
The famous novelist enjoyed her baths un
molested after this.
PAT GILIIOBE'S WIT.
Hotv Ho Tamed it Into Account In Gettlnff
a l'nliio Tickler.
St. Lonls Post-Dispatch, j
One of the latest stories of Colonel Pat
Gilmore is when at Manhattan Beach, where
a group of distinguished visitors were
awaiting the leader to join them after the
concert was over. When he came they
moved offas men will do for liquid refresh
ments. Bight here it must be stated that
Colonel Gilmore never drinks any
thing but champagne, he never touches any
other liquor. One of the men said to the
famous musician: "Colonel Gilmore, we've
been laying wagere on ydur name. Some of
us uphold that P. S. stands lor 'Patrick Sars
field, others that they mean 'Patrick
Stephen-,' now what do they really stand
for?" v
"II I tell you," quickly replied the witty
leader, "n ill you st ma it?"
"Why of course I'll stand it," replied the
other wonderinglv.
"Well, they mean 'Pomery Sec.'" The
man stood it, to the extent of a basket of
wine for the applauding crowd.
DIAMONDS IN HEE TEETH.
Tho Dcntl.t That Did tho Work Got $300
for Hlii Day's Engagement.
From the Philadelphia Times.l
Dr. Andersnn, a New York dentist, who
plugs up the molars of the Four Hundred,
says that he has made 5500 in a day, but
only once. A lady came to him who wanted
diamonds put in a gold filling of her front
teeth.
"It was evident" said Dr. Anderson,
"that she had just come into her inherit
ance. She seemed so anxious to spend
monev. X didn't approve of the diamonds
and told her so, but she would have them,
and I humored her to such an extent that
my div's" work netted me 5500.
"Whit no I mike ordiuarily? Well, I
charge 520 an hour and I rarely work more
than five hours. People don't care to come
helore ten in the morning, and late iu the
aitcrnoon the light is not good. One hun
dred dollars a day Is about the extent of
what a dentist can make, and it is the most
exacting of all tho professions."
FASEIOK WITH THE MAOBL
The Corset of thp Mlssloonry la Killinc Off
New Zoilnm! Women.
Farls Edition New Yort Herald.
It appears that white women are respon
sible for the rapid depopulation! New Zea
land. When female missionaries went
among the Maoris they insisted that the
Maori women should wear clothing. The
Jatter could not be induced to overcome
their prejudice against skirts, but discover
ing that the missionary women wore corsets,
they decided that tbe latter was a garment
nbt'wholly devoid of merit
The result is that every Maori woman now
goes about her dally work neatly clad in a
corset laced as tightly as tho united efiorts
of halt a dozen stalwart warriors can lace It
Being nnaccnstonied lo tight lacing the
women are dying off with great rapidity,
and the repentant lemale missionaries now
regret that thev ever asked their d'esky sis
ters to consider the question of clothing.
CLARA BELLE'S CHAT,
Habits that are ilfcpopulating New
York Society Circles.
A GifiL'S itfiSCttt OB1 UU PdObLB.
flow
a Pmtj Wife's Complexion Was
Spoiled bj lief li&sbdni
LACE MAKING IS THE LATEST PAD
conEisJortpiNCE or Tiiie dispatch.
New Yobk, October 4.
MOVING ladies?
Certainly. Of at
least, women in good
.lotbes, with other
wise good manners,
and with Undoubted
good morals, feally
have formed the
habit ol smoking
cigarettes'. I regret
this statement be
cause a denial of its
truth has been made.
Do you know that
onr Pilgrim fore
mothers, those saint
ed wives and daugh
ters of the chaps who
illhstrionslv landed
vS
if
Ji
en Plymenth Bock "TV
sm k 1 tob-iceo? Not in dainty cigarettes,
' In r, hut in pipes. Not in pretty pipes,
eveu, hut in common May ones. Ughl To
my mind the smoke of tobacco should be en
durable by onr sex only when emitted from
the lips of our husbands' of sweethearts. For
a refined girl to smoke seems to me out
rageous. But I am a historian of tbe phases of
femininity which I obsefve in New York,
and above all else I seek to be trustworthy.
So a contradiction of my assertion that
many of our rich and fashionable girls
indulge in the cigarrette habit leads me to
say it again, and to offer to put it into an
affidavit On application. Like the dnde
weakling who lelt "real devilish" on ginger
ale, tbe dear girls enjoy a consciousness of
piqdant recklessness on the mildest cigar
ettes they can buy. It is in a spirit of
adventure that they smoke, although I sup
pose that some of them learn to really enjoy
tobacco.
THE ODOB STICKS.
The consideration that will keep most of
us from becoming inveterate smokers, how
ever, is the odor. Yon may cleanse your
mouth and hands of the tobacco smell as you
will, the Bceut of the cigarette will cling to
yon still unless you go the trouble of a
separate smoking robe. I know & belle, tbe
daughter of a Mnrray Hill family, too, who
smokes a cigarette on rising and another on
retiring; and, while indulging thus, she is
enveloped solely and only in a smoking
robe, which is kept ih a separate box when
not in use, and so her other clothing is not
contaminated. She even covers her hair
closely with a silk Cap so that tbe odor of to
bacco may not get into her "crown of glory."
Ahl if our sex were always so nice in their
bad habitsi"
"Cocktails before breakfastl"
The physician who was receiving a band
some young society woman in his office ut
tered this phrase iu an astonished tone and
looked out of his distended eyes at his fair
patient '
"Why, yes, doctor," said the young lady.
"I have had one or two whisky cocktails be
fore breakfast all summer. I really
couldn't tat anything without them.'
TOO MUCH FOE THE DOCTOE.
The young woman was suffering from
nervous indigestion, and she declared that
her summer at Newport had quite used her
np. The physician had already drawn from
her the information that it had been her
habit to drink considerable wine with her
meals, and was not surprisedat it, but the
idea of whisky Before breakfast struck him
aback. '
And vet I, who am not a physician, am
not surprised at tbe voung woman-'s habit,
for the reason that I know it to be a bv no
means uncommon one among New York
fashionable girls who live a draining and
depressing lite of festivity. A case came
under my observaiion a short time ago that
was peculiarly Startling. It Was that of a
girl who began during her first season to
The Rescue of a Pvodle.
stimulate herself up to the required condi
tion of mind and body necessary to cope
with the exhausting customs tbat she was
forced to adopt. At first she took quinine
in small doses, but, finding no real excite
ment in this, she went on to port wine,
sherry, and finally to whisky and brandy.
Her brother astonished me one day by as
suring me that she required more cocktails
in aday than he did, and as I knew tbat he
consnmed a dozen a day, I expressed my
doubts of bis assertion.
COCKTAILS BEEOltE BREAKFAST.
"Well," said he, "ir the stairs carpet
leading to my sister's room has not been
worn out by the maid in running up and
downstairs with whjsky cocktails beibre
breakfast, then I hope "I may never look
into another glass again."
For two seasons this girl held her place
well, and her faoial loveliness expressed
but slightly tbe effect ot the feverish life she
was leading. Then ohc seemed to fall off.
She grew fat, hut, at the same time, a pale,
unhealthy deadness overspread her count-nance,
and everybody remarked concern
ing her sudden trans ormation. One ifiorn
ing I had occasion to call on her brother at
a somewhat early hour, and as I sat in the
reception room the maid passed along the
hall on her wav upstairs bearing on a tray n
whisky cocktail At the same instant a
shrill.'ini patient voice came from above.
"Marii, Marie, for heaven's sake hurrv
with that cocktail or I shall shake myself
to pieces. Hurry, I say."
It was her voice. About a half hour
later she came down and I chatted a mo
ment with her. Her bauds were trembling
and her swollen eyes Were shitting and
bloodshot
That was two years ago. The girl is dead
now.
' MAKING PD.ETTY LACE.
I find that the art of lace making is being
studied at present by n large number ot
fashionable eirls, the object being to make
it for one's own wear. There is nothing
quite so expensive in a woman's attire as
laces, and only a very few women, even in
the highest society, are able to exhibit a
fine,coIIection. It is -the hope of the girls
now studying tbe art that they shall perfect
themselves in it to inch (in extent that they
may make, for their own and their children's
uses, rare and beautiful specimens of the
difficult handiwork. '
A i ery handsome black French poodle
was prancing down Fifth avenue on a breezy,
bright morning, in company, with a fine,
straight young woman, whose alert and
voluptuous figure, togethef with her hand
some face, attracted to her the attention of
all passers by. The dog was prodd of bis
mistress, nnd the girl was proud of her dog,
and the picture made by the two was one ot
rare and exqdisite life and beauty. While
alt wds peaceful and danger Seeded nowhere
nigh, a fickely and creaking coveted wagon,
drawn by a pitiable wreck of a horse, and
having on its teat two repulsive young men,
whose unkempt persons and wolfish faces
would proclaim them anywhere as most un
desirable citizens, came around the corner ot
& side Street Into tbe avenue.
THE iJO(J CATCItEB'S WOE.
As the wa-Jdn gdt hear to the girl one of
the voting td Clan 8 leaped to tbe ground add
made a quick plunge for tile dog, catching
it by oiie hind leg uhd whirling It above his
head in a Circle, tunning as he did so toward
the rear of his wagon. Quieter than it
takes to say so, the voting woman was in
front of the young totigb, with one hand
clutching his coat collar and the other
Wearing the Carpet Out.
holding the muzzle of a small silver-mounted
smelling bottle close against his face.
"You drop my dog, voti scoundrel, or I'll
shoot you," said the girl through her tight
clenched teeth.
Tbe young fellow peered out of his small
eyes into the angry, determined face before
him, and as he attempted to shake the girl's
hand from his collar, said:
"Aw, wot yer given me, anyway. Don't
yen see, we're dor dog catchers an'' you ain't
got no right ter have yer pdrp out widont a
muzzle. Der dog goes along wid u, see?"
The girl's face took on a still fiercer and
more ominous look. The dog, still in the
grasp of the man, was twisting to get away
and yelping with pain.
"If you do not drop my dog this instant,"
said the girl, "I will fire a ball square into
your ugly facet Do yon hear me?"
With these words she gave the dog-catcher
a sharp shake, and he dropped the dog, who
scampered away to a safe distance and so
licited passers-by to go to the assistance of
his mistress. By this time people were com
ing np to see what the disturbance was, but
it was the discomfited dog-catcher who had
to explain matters.
SHE TESTED HIS NOSTBITMS.
A mystery has finally been solved. Mrs.
La Blanque was one of a laree family of
children. I think there were five daugh
ters, and each has always been tamous for
her peachy complexion. Mrs. La Blanque,
however, has for years been the victim of
some cutaneous disorder. Last month La
Blanque died and at once tbe widow's com
plexion began to clear. "The heartless
thing," I think 1 hear you exclaim, "her
secret joy made her roseate." Nay. not so.
She is grieving for La Blanqne deeply, for
she was sincerely attached to him. "Ah,"
you burst out, "the blenching effects of
grief, no doubt" Wrong again. "Well,
in ffoodness' name," you replv, snappishly,
"what did do the business lor her?"
Don't get excited and yon shall hear. It
seems that La Blanque a fact which the
pretty Madge was ignorant of was for
years a silent partner in a firm of soap and
lace powder manufacturers, and that La
Blanque,this fiend in later, grease and dust,
has been.sinotj his marriage to the pink and
pearl damsel, secretly experimenting upon
ber once tuatobless skin with tbe various
lotions, powders, unguents, balms, creams,
soaps, washes, vinegars, tinctnres, pastes,
depilatories, enamels, ointments and cos
metics produced by bis firm. Tho question
which I am now revolving in my mind is
whether that man who tickled bis wife to
death for tbe simple pleasure of hearing her
laugh or La Ulanque, who,in his mad desire
to test the emcacy of his nostrums, came so
near destroying bis wife's complexion is de
serving of my greater resentment I incline
to regard La Blanque as the villain of the
deeper dye. Claba Belle.
FOOUHQ IHHOCEKT WIVES.
An Eastern Scheme Which Only Cost a
l'aitil Card to One's Self.
The Holyoke Transcript says two well
knawn citizens were UTJnding together in
the corridor of the postoffioe. One hap
pened to notice that a postal card held in the
fingers of the other was directed to the
bolder. "Why, how does this come?" was
asked; "do you tfrite letters to yourself?"
"In this case, yes," was the answer.
"That's funny."
"Well not so very. See the other side.'
He held it up and the other read:
"Bro. Blank There will be a meeting of
the I. O. O. S. B.. No. 237, at the hall, the
evening ot June 20, to trans ict special busi
ness. Members not present will be fined
$15. "J. B. , Secretary."
"Yes; but I don't exactly catoh on," pro
tested the innocent.
"O, you don't! Well, I got the cards
printed myself. The society is all a myth.
When I want to go ont of an evening I di
rect one of these postals to my house. When
I reach home tuy wife hands ittome with a
sigh. I oiler to stay at home add stand the
fine of $19, but she won't hare it that way.
That' all, my friend, exceptthat the scheme
is worked by hundreds of others and our
poor, deluded wives haven't tumbled to the
racket yet"
It is too bad to give this away,but it is too
good to keep.
TEC STEAM LIFEBOAT.
Great Hope for.lt access 00 Stormy
Connts of fio Sen.
A lively discussion tooE place be ore the
British Association on tho advantages and
drawbacks of the first steam lifeboat which
has been constructed in England. Sir
James Douglas was of opinion tbat the new
boat would inlfill its promise. In Spite of
the necessary sacrifice of speed cansed by
the hydraulic system of propulsion, the
boat was fast and powerful enough to deal
with a heavy sea and an adverse gale. Be
sides this, she had stability and self-righting;
qualities which were o: the utmost
value. Another important feature, Sir
James said, was the maneuvering proper
ties when alongside a wreck. Lifeboat
men were of the opinion that no steam ves
sel could be sueces'ul in this respect, but
according, to his view the two jets employed
would solve the problem. Another speaker
snid that during some trials at Harwich the
boat had been run in a ranch sea, although
not so rough at it would have to contend
with in ordinary winter work. They had
tested, as iur at possible, the properties of
the boat in maneuvering alongside a wreck.
The results had been satis actory, but the
test of actual work alone would be conclu
sive. Comfort for the fllnrlner.
.There are brighter prospects iu view for
the marine. He is not only to have better
sleeping nccommodatious, better foot gear
and other improvements in his uniform, bat
his ration, the bone of contention for ninny
years, is to be improved and increased, and
orders have been given to tbat effect by the
Secretary of the Navy.
j In Sit 1 1 II PI BtwWVWI" .- - Aa
wll
COOKING THE ONIOtf.
Dozens of Ways of Preparing the
Vegetable for the Table.
HOW TO 8ERYB IT WITH MEATS.
Used in Combination With Tomatoes, ("
cambers and the Like.
BLL1CE BEEENA'S DSEFDL BECIPE3
.JirwitrrrxH ion tub dispatcb.1
Last week I had something to say about
the much-abused onion. If the traducers of
this Innocent Vegetable are treated to dishes
prepared after the manner described below,
they will surely change their opinions:
escaloped okions.
Put to boil, in hard water, if possible.jslx or
eight medium-sized onions; when they have
boiled for a few minutes change the water, add
fteSh cold water and boll rapidly till tender,
which will be in about one hoar.
Drain in a colander, Separate the onions into
flakes, and place In a baking dish In alternate
layers with bread crumbs ending with a layer
bf bread crumbs.
Heat a capful of Cream, add a lamp of batter,
season to taste, pour over the onions and baka
until lightly browned.
OSIOSS AITD TOSTATOXS.
Cot from the loar slices of bread about half
ah inch thick, spread generously with fresh
butter, and lay in tbe bottom of a baking-dlsn.
Add a layer of onions and tomatoes, out in
thin slice, season with salt and pepper; then a
layer of bread and butter, topped with onions
and tomatoes.
Corer with grated bread, season and dot
With bits of buffer.
Bake in a slow oven for thirty minutes.
FK1ED ONIONS.
Peel tbe onions, cat into thin, even slices,
and fry brown In hot batter.
Season with salt and pepper.
OPTIONS WITH CALF'S LIVIK.
Binse a piece of calf's liver with colli water,
wipe dry, cut in neat slices and dredge with,
flour..
Cut three or four slices of sweet breakfast
bacon, trim neatly, and fry until the edges be
gin to curl, when It may be taken Irom the pan
and put where It will keep warm.
Cnt some onions in tbia slices and fry la tha
bacon drippings until brown.
Put tbe onions with tbe bacon.
Lay the liver In tbe hot drippings and add a
little latd. or more drippings, to keep the liver
soft while frjine.
Arrange the bacon and liver In alternate
slices, with bet and there a spoonful ol
onions.
Add a spoonful of flour to the ETavy la tbo
pan, pour in water, and when thick a rich
cream squeeze in a little lemon juice, and sea
son to taste.
The gravy may be poured over the meat or
served in a tureen, i
ojioit SAitDwicn.
Spread good sweet bread with fresh buttert
lay between the slices some minced onion, of
mild flavor, sprinked with salt.
If troubled with Insomnia try an onion sand
wich at bedtime.
A very palatable sandwich is made from
sliced onions and tomatoes, seasoned to taste,
and placed between thin cats of buttered
bread.
BOILED OSIONS AHD CEZAil SACOE.
Skin about two dozen small whits onions,
drop them into boiling, salted water, cook until
tender and drain.
Put in a stew pan a pint of rich milk; when it
comes to tho boil stir In two tablcspoonfuls of
batter and oae sf flour, mixed together.
Season with salt and pepper and simmer for
a few minutes.
EAEES OSIOSS STOITED.
Select Spanish onions of uniform size. Cover
with plenty of water and boil rapidly lor near
ly an hour.
Put Into a colander to drain, then into a bak
log dish.
Scoop ont the centers and fill with well
seasoned bread crumbs, moistened with milk or
beaten ens.
Straw tbe whole with bread crmnbs and small
pieces of batter.
Bake slowly for one horn-in a moderate oven,
and serve with onion sauce.
ONIO.XSAND BEEFSTEAK.
Balect a good porterhouse or sirloin steak,
three-qaartsrs of an inch thick, place on a
greased gridiron and broil for twelve minutes,
tarnina: Irequently.
Place on a warm platter, add a lamp of bat
ter, (spread in bits on tbe steak) season with
Salfand pepper and cover vtith thinly Bhced
onions, fried In hot batter prepared while the
stem is broiling.
TO STEW OXIOXS BROWS'.
Remove tbe sLins. being careful not to cut
the onions: place them la a stew-pan la one
layer; cover with rich beef gravy and simmer
slowly fur two hours.
Thev should ba perfectly tender and un
broken. 05I0N SAUCE.
Peel the onions, boil iu plenty of water and
whan quite tender turn into a colander to
drain: then pat la the saace-pan, mash fine,
season with saltand pepper, add melted batter
and some rich milk.
CREAMED 0310:73.
Use small white onions, remove tha skins and
throw info boiling water with a little salt
Whon tender drain in a colander, return to
the sanca pan with two tablespoonfuls ot bat
ter. Shake gently for a few minutes, add a little
cream, a dredge of flour and salt and pepper to
taste.
ONION BOUI.
Peil eight or ton good-sized onions, cut In
thin slices and fry until lightly browned In hot
batter or drippings.
lam the onions into the soap-pot, cover with
one pint and a half of water and two quarts of
rich milkT"
Mince two or three raw potatoes, and add to
the soup: set the pot on acronnt of the milk
into a vessel of boiling water, and when ths
potatoes are cooked, season with salt and
pepper, stir in a cupful of cream, and serve.
PICKLED ONIONS.
Tbo small white onions are used for pickling.
Peel them and throw into a crock of salt
water.
.Let stand for two days, and change ths water
once daring the soaking.
Drain, pack In jars or bottles with a few
small red peppers, and cover with scalding hot
vinegar, spiced to taste.
Close tbe jars or bottles when the vinegar is
cold, and put them In a dry place.
Large onions may be cut in slices, packed In
ajar, sprinkled with salt and cayenno pepper
or minced red pepper, and covered with cold
Vinegar.
They will be St to use in about four weeks.
Onions and cucumbers, and onions and
tomatoes, by common usage, are commended
as salads.
Onions form one of tbe chief ingredients
in Italian cookery. A very common and
favorite dish among them is onions and
plenty of them cooked with macaroni.
Ellice Skbkxa,
THKV OWNED TEE SHOP.
Hotr Two Covr Took Possession and StasM
peded the Occupants.
An occurrence of a singn'ar character was
witnessed not long since in one oi the thor
oughfares of Leeds. While a drove of cat
tle were passing one of their number sud
denly took fright and ran into a workshop
iu the neighborhood, in which a number of
persons were then employed. It made its
way upstairs into the workroom, and natur
ally created considerable alarm among those
who happened to be there.
Every device had to be resorted to for
their protection, but before the first beast
could be driven out another was 911 its way
upstairs. This one could get no further
than halfway up the staircase, with the re
sult that the passage between the workshop
and the street was blocked, and neither the
beuston the stairs nor the other that was
above conld be driven ofi the premises for
same time. Eventually ropes were pro
cured, and by their means the beast on ths
staircase was fint pulled up into the room
and subsequently hauled down info tbe
street. Tbe other was got into tbe street by
a similar process, bnt not before the work
shop they had seized possession of had been
completely deranged and its occupants eon
siderably alarmed.
Wlix Trade Is DolL
Atchison Olotrt.l
A great many men downtown are like tbe
boy at school. He spends the time from 9
to 10 111 getting started, and from 11 to 12 in
,wntchlng the clock for tbe time when school
will ba ont H'rom 10 to 11 is the time ha
dors nnything, and then he does very little.
He grows up to be tbe kind of a man who is
always howling about dull times, and who
wonders why business is so peer. m
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