mmEm w "J p OOTPITTSBTJBG--DIsETOH, SUNDAY, ' AUGUST flT, 1890 flwyjwfi ?:J" IJ- t , A. 5 r I- I t illllllltlllili XWq ?t ; FASHIONS FROM ABROAD. Sblrlev Sara's Opinion of Foreign Hate, Dresses and feklrie Tbe English Maid en's Style Something Abont Dinners nsa Table Decorallon Women Reform era. rwaxTTsar roa mx cisriTCH.l The fashion! irom abroad send the airiest of hats and studies of wash silk and fine cotton gowns in little variations on each other. The hats have transparent brims, for instance one 'with broad brim of black set embroidered in white point esprit, laid in quilles on the satin wired foundation, the crown of large bine corn flowers clustered to Teil but not to conceal the hair, with aigrette of the flowers at the left, muses of gaily striped ribbon bows, with late flow ers, like yellow and black rndbeckia, zin nias and chrysanthemums or large starry asters are seen as fall approaches. These rich flowers and ribbons are agree able alternatives for the wings and velvet of the first of September hats. These are Yiennese models. The English hats and bonnets of the season are things to wonder at, not to admire. The effort seems to be to pet a sailor hat on the tall pork pie to which the English girl still fondly clings. 2IA2BIAGEABLE BRITONS. It is not remarkable that money is the only bait which tempts the ordinary En glish young man into marrying. It would take a very large iortune to overcome one's reluctance to the tall and awkward English girl, who wears the most unbecoming things on principle, one would say, and is the most utter and incredible innocent and fool on many points that blots this lower air. If she is 6 feet 2 in height, with a 16-inch -waist, she always wears a melancholy long cloak or a short "smart" jacket, which gives her the benefit of all her length, and The Tramvurenl Hat. tops the figure with a pork pie hat and tbe closest possible brim. If she talks, if she gets off the stillness and reserve which limits her conversation to the two responses "Indeed" and "Fawncy" tbe experi ment is apt to make American society rather nervous inside often minutes. Her calling a spade a spade is bad enough sometimes, if she would only stick to spades and not wander off into terrible recitals of hunting mishaps which involve "getting bogged," or narratives of seasickues,or the last divorce case with a naivete which puts the gentlemen to flight in five minutes. THE MODEL THEY FOLLOW. A middling middle-class English woman must be of all creatures on earth the most trying to live witb, if her companion has a spark of originality or taste. The better class English woman unconsciously models herself on tbe high-bred ladies she meets abroad and travel is a forcible educator. The.colonization of French dressmakers in London has done everything lor her dress, so that a really elegant Londoner might pass for a Yiennese as far as toilet is con cerned. The instructed American has a natural eye for dress, and will by and by be among tbe'best dressed women on the earth when she learns the artistic virtue and value of simplicity not to gouge out a scallop here or a gash and a goint there for the mere sake of slashing and gouging, or to insist on hav ing her skirt arranged in pleats one side and looped the other for fear of uniformity. Uniformity and rest for the eye is what we want, not mere variety for the sake of va riety. A PREVALENT TORSI OP INSANITX. There is a certain insanity in this de mand for constant change in shapes and trimmings, the inability to restore any idea which marks tbe flighty demented. Among the most approvable of the late designs from abrojd is a walking dress which might be worn by a young grand duchess at a Ger man or'French spa. Mark the transparent hat of the Housselicede soie, with fluted brim, graceful, frilled fichu and moderate sleeve, close enough on the forearm for the long Tyrol glove to protect it, the plain full skirt with beading at the wide hem. It is a pretty model for fine cambric or soft-printed linen. The huge rush chair ffhioh screens from the wind shows how completely our continental friends study comfort. Another figure in crepon and silk is a study for early fall dress. The skirt, alternately of plain wool and knife pleated Bilk, reverts to the accordion idea, which is pretty in spite of its vulgarization. The sleeves may be of damask, in embossed figures or in the fine cutwork done by hand, vhich Is as different from the coarse ma chine work seen as Valenciennes is from crochet. CTV COSTUMES FOE TUTS DAMES. Damask silts in old Italian patterns of peacock feathers, plumes, palms and heraldic figures, are In high vogue abroad with the inner circles of fashion. N ewer pat terns are distinct ferns and papyrus or rich diaper, made up witb lustrous sottgros grain. Long polonaise 'effects will be seen -in autumn dresses, witb wide vests of em broidery or seeded jet. Yery rich plain princess gowns of damask or plain silk have a close-fitting skeleton visite, ontlining the shoulders and extending in long points on the skirt. This beaded attachment is fastened by books and eyelets to the waist so as to be de tached when desired. Cloth gowns will be simple, with embroidered or beaded nect i band and waists, large velvet pockets and frkisC yrb0'K. ""luess u neia by two large folds -aca uae -" 'runt, oeia are not worn wltnf new dresses. gJjOTIXO DRESSES. The shooting dsli '"""j ' mountain climbing nSSSXIt,U' or amateur gardening, ftrTJ ?V,?!1 acme excellent examples t5"? L&$r women. A neighbor of Mrs? -Hicks Lord speaks ofseemg that lady bnujXH" " den mornings with trowel and pla-4 " aerially digging in tne nower oeos wiin-- nwnnanas. Anawnynow j.m u vertigo for beauty and good spirits sad demands a (ires aeeerdisgly. , A plain skirt of home- spun, tweed or linen twill, short to the an kle, with Norfolk jacket and ample pockets on the outside of tbe skirt just In reach of the hands, is worn by English ladies for shooting over the turnips. It is to be hoped our women will be con tent to don the dress" and draw the line at shooting. Killing for amusement is such unconditional cruelty that a woman wholly unsexes herself in attempting this sport One can feel more respect lor a Sarah Althea Tsrry drawing a pistol over her injuries than for a well bred woman killing birds be cause it is the fashion. a gardening costume. For gardening or walks through the dew the skirt is faced ten inches outside of the hem with fine waterproof. The jersey drawers and stockings in one of black wool are worn with such a dress, or the knicker bockers of cloth like the skirt High top boots are an affectation, the buttoned gaiter to the knee being very much better. Gloves of reindeer skin are advised, as they will wear and wash. Linen gaiters to the ankle are very neat and comfortable for town or country in tbe dusty aays. .cor pwiss climbing English women discard veils as useless against the elare of sun and snow. Instead they wear a horror of a mask of thin flannel, with a gathered piece over the nose! A turkey rattle must be ornamental by tbe side of snch a disguise. It is no wonder that one of their own sisterhood writes that the walking dresses of English women abroad "too often combine ugliness and unsuitability in an almost incredible degree." THE DIVIDED SKIRT. "Women seem to be slightly or more than slightly off their heads about the divided skirt, or leglette, as Mrs. Jenness-Miller hss it The latest development is a skirt on an entirely new principle devised by a London tailor. " The peculiar feature is that it is closed at the edge, with openings for the feet to pass through. A piece of cloth some four yards long, we are told, is used for the front and back widths alone. Instead of cutting them the needed length in the usual way, the stuff is hemmed up a certain depth, the extra length connecting the two breadths, tbe side widths are fitted in and 6penings left for the feet. The description is copied exactly,but if you get any idea how the thing is made and how it is worn, you gain more than I do. Still, all the advantages are claimed for the new invention healtb, lightness and warmth and whatever else dress reformers and doctors desire. I fail to see any benefit in these reforms beyond giving unsettled women something to get excited over, IT IS NOT PRACTICABLE. "The amount of flop to be found in these feur yard pantalettes, with a brisk wind round the corner, is all an ordinary woman wants to contend with. Tbe Turks and Albanians get so wound up in their full trousers that they cannot run away in battle, and histories tell of battles lost because of divided drapery muffling the motions of troops. Perhaps the economy recommends the divisors, as the plainest cambric sell at i and a pair of carmine flannel come at $14, and it is no wonder the Boston woman who had a pair to go to Europe wore them till they hung in strips from the waistband. Frequent changes of underwear at such price are beyond the reach of most ordinary women, but the bag skirt of the Conduit street tailor is a wonder and an amaze. How do you get into it? And how is that four yards of length taken up? It can't be the right sort of reform, for it isn't divided, all salvation in a dress reform view depend ing on wearing one's clothes in divisions not apparent to. sight or feeling. A HEAL REFORM. The real improvement of late in dresses is lining the widths with stiff, light material, which keeps it out from the limbs and gives freedom and coolness. The best shops keep the satine skirt with two or three rattans run in casings to wear witb lawns and limp bengalines old fashioned, but very light and comfortable, not to say becoming. Nothing in the way of fancy ornaments has been as satisfactory as the black enamel flowers for brooches, whether the pansy with- a diamond dew-drop which, one may have for a morning pin at 35, or the same design in rhinestone for $3. The idea was too pretty not to be' experimented on, and this season has the same designs in white enamel and brilliants the daintiest of summer ornaments. Daisy, primrose, pansy, starflower and four leavea clover are a few designs, cool looking and durable. The new diamond eardrops are hung by a hinge to the wire, iving the most tremulous light to their eautv. Etruscan gold set with small dia monds is worn for day ornaments, and is more beautiiui than costly. JOE TABLE USE. Sets of peach knives, with curved, keen pointed, gold-plated blades and handles oi Hungarian porcelain are the last coquetry of the dinner table. Exquisite dessert bowls and flagons appear in the amber glass, cased in gold filigree, set with sparks of jeweled glass, if pot real small stones. The choicest dinners, however, for summer are set out with white, satiny linen and abun dance of crystal in pierced silver setting, and enly faintly tinged flowers and ferns aro allowed in tbe white, icy glitter. The Iilusb dinner scarfs and colored satin under ays are left to hotel and restaurant or middle-class dinners. A plush mat with wine drops or spots of gravy grows hideous. It is out of taste at best About our eating we want nothing that will not wash and come out purity itself. Beside, plush and satin are "smelly," and recall the roast duck and celerv sauce too long. Linen damask, cut work and drawn borders are the only fabrics wabie near a dinner unie. ana taste art ,nt enouga la an cobkubm, 'Xba Jin Airy Midsummer Frock. im flowers are best of the scentless sort, or with subdued perfume. IN BAD TASTE. The dipner favors lately told of, with four yards of ribbon to the posey, savor of the haberdasher's shop. "Why notdecorato with artificial flowers and millinery entirely? Have the flowers in clear crystal and silver holders, plain glasses in silver cups, card holders and pin baskets answer ing every purpose when cake baskets and decanter' stands give out, making a cordon of small vases border the table, with a tall, slender center piece, whose long feathery trails fall fringe-like to the cloth. Seeding and quaking grasses are very graceful among the flowers, which should be starry and single or much ruffled and silky leaved. The big hybrid perpetual roses are too much for graceful decoration. They look fitter for the salad bowl. Be tween the onter vases arrange oblong dishes of dessert fruits, the smaller the better, as the Alpine strawberries, which are in supply till November if anyone takes the trouble to grow them, a saucer of which will perfume a room. But no crystallized fruit in sum mer, please, although the gracious English writers whose ideas we are working over do recommend them for the frnitless dinner tables in London. 07 NO USE. Trails of the edible flowers fashionable at wedding breakfasts will we dispense witb. Edible flowers are a distinct sensualism. A drift of nasturtium petals over the salad bowls is as far as one cares to go in that direction. That reminds me, the last new flavoring in soda water is "crushed violets." and tastes suffocating a cosmetic sort of taste, as u one was imbibing a balmy tenet lotion. Edible flowers! I had, as soon but ter my bread with vaseline. Although at the Stanley -wedding the feature of the vredding breakfast was the lovely crystallized edible roses, gardenias and orange flowers arranged in sprays along the table, here is something prettier and more suitable: Sow your date stones in small flower pots filled with rich, peaty soil and sand; water well and keep warm, and they grow into pretty table palms, with long pinnate leaves. The florists abroad grow quantities of them for the table and house decoration. Probably we cannot with these treat our selves to the guipure tablecloths from the Yosges, which sell for ducal tables with their dozen of serviettes for 240 apiece. Neither do we desire our pillow cases worked with hunting scenes, towns and landscapes, as were those of the Austrian Archduchess just married. One would fancy the wild huntsman careering through one's dreams. Slip a handful of fresh rose petals inside your pillow case daily and you will envy neither duke nor kaiser his delights. The best are in reach of as all. Shiblet Dabs. TTETt FOBTUmE IS MALE. A London Flower Pntnter Whom Royal Patronage Has Made the Rage. Miss Ada Bell, the flower painter of Lon don, has jumped with a bound from obscur ity to fashion. Her fortune is made. Not long ago, explains the New York World, Miss Bell succeeded in getting an order from the Princess of Wales for a panel to be placed in a writing desk. The design hap pily included the favorite posey of the Princess, and when finished was sent to her with a tiny card containing tbe compli ments of the artist Women are rarely as business-like as this. The courtesy and modesty charmed the Princess, and after the exchange of letters came an invitation lor an audience at Marl borough. The young artist was as pleasing as her flowers. She had her wits about her and her ears very wide open. Among other things she learned of the approaching birth day of the Empress Frederick, to whom the Princess offered to present her. Miss Bell went home, locked herself in her sky studio, and did not quit her paints until she had finished a fan worthy of the royal lady's acceptance. ' Two years ago the Empress visited the Children's Hospital on Ormond street, an institution in which the artist is also inter ested. Tbe fan in question contained a miniature sketch recalling a scene in one of the sick wards, where the Empress stooped to fan the face of a dying child. The foun dation of the fan is black lace of violet pat tern with encircling hearts, and the sticxs of green mother-of-pearl shade off to pink. In this delicate background Miss Bell used pearl tints of mauve, pink and green, producing an effect as exquisite as the Watleau paintings. In the center of the fan appeared a wood land scene, showing a sleeping nymph fanned by sporting cupids that danced among white and purple violets. Sprigs of heartease and memory knots were scattered over the pearl sticks, the outer or top one containing a miniature portrait of the late Emperor Frederick set in a heart-shaped crystal. This lovely bit of lace, pearl and paint was sent to the Empress, -who dispatched her appreciation of the gift and work through a live Count Just before leaving England tbe artist was sent for and ap peared at Buckingham Palace, when the Empress attached her autograph to a picture that Miss Bell exhibited a year ago in honor of the Queen's birthday. This painting has since been sold for. the benefit of the Chil dren's Hospital at a sum several pounds larger than the yearly earnings of the young lady. But Mis Bell is the rage. Her pic tures please royalty, and she is able to sell every posey she paints, and at her own price, too. AN AFEIOAH ULY. Stanley Bros got Home a Perfume That Has Sec All the ladles Wild. Washington Poit J The fashionable enthusiasm of the hour is for a new perfume from a marvelous lily that grows in African jungles. Mr. Stanley found this flower and brought back a large jar of its leaves to his bride-elect Imme diately every great dame in England wanted it, and by some mysterions process some of them obtained it, and now, of course, the women of New York want it, and they won't be happy till they get it Those who have caught a whiff of this wonderful perfume say that it is a mixture of jasmine, lilac, lily of the valley, and rose, and is altogether intoxicating. TOTOGEB THAN HER DAUGHTER, Marie Walowrlgbt Is a Great Favorite at Saratoga This Senses, Mew York lTess.3 Miss Marie Wainwright, the aotress, is one of the most notable characters at Sara toga this season, notable chiefly because she hss a daughter with her who Is said to be 18, and she herself does not look over 16 that is, at a distance. Her hair is blonde, her eyebrows and eyelashes delicately penciled, and her face is pink and white, as only the band of an artist knows how to make it She occupies a private cottage belonging to one of tbe hotels, and is conspicuous on the promenades and other places where fashion and beauty congregate. SUGGESTS WHITE WDTGS. Description or a TIsloa at a Prettx Lady Back of Her Harp. Washington Pott, Harp playing is a very picturesque and artistio accomplishment which constantly finds new votaries. A pretty woman with a golden harp against her shoulder, her slender band and supple wrist outlined against its strings, is so suggestive of cheru bim and seraphim, of white wings, so envel oped in a misty atmosphere of saintliness and general loveliness that a man can't even think the profane things that he says boldly abont the piano banger and violin scraper, even if no two strings are tuned in the same key. Tbe MnnnUh Dress Enge. Hew York World.l Full many a maid, of purest nerve serene, You may dlicorer in tbe sex called lair, Who doss not blush in pubUo to be seen When she her brother's Helta Ihlrt doth wen, iiiissssss!sssKsiir'i f fi'4(t'iste,-':a MLi&MM I j& "3L ' i ii mftnwMtJHSlSi sTrtfiPii MifiHiwfT ftsisT'lii'ilfM i '" t tiiissBisMsliVifr I'l'ii imSMnSSIlmKsim&-uMKih t THE USEFUL APPLE. Not Tory Nutritions but a Food That Serves Good Purposes. DIFFEBEHT WATS OF PREPARING. Blliee Serena's Directions for Dozens of Palatable Dishes. A TAEIETI OP 8IMPLI BECIPES IWBlTTXg TOB TITS DISPATCH.! Apples are the most appreciated of our domestlo fruits. Erom tbe number and varieties which have been produced by skill end care, it is plainly evident that some are better adapted to the use of the table than others. While they are grown all over the world, it is conceded that those produced in the United States arethebelst; but in those districts, both of this country and of Eu rope, where their cultlvatien is more highly attended to and their relative merits are best known, they are cultivated for three special purposes, namely, for dessert or use in their uncooked state; for culinary or cooking pur poses, and for cider. They are regarded rightly as one of our best and safest fruits, and they may be cooked in a great variety of ways. Apples for table use should have a sweet, juicy pulp, and rich, aromatic flavor, while those suitable for cooking should possess the property of forming a uniform, soft, pulpy mass when boiled or baked. Contrary to generally accepted opinion, apples uncooked are not readily digestible; and, while they may be cooked before they are ripe, for des sert purposes, they should not be used until perfectly ripe. Apples do not contain many ingredients of a nutritive kind, and more than one-half of their substanoe consists of water. , They are, therefore, not muoh of a nutrient, but they are nevertheless a very useful adjunot to other food. Cooked, they are laxative. By the process of cooking the acid, for tne.'greater part, is decomposed and converted into sugar. This process takes place in the sweet or eating apple, in due course of nature, as the fruit ripens. The most nutritious part of the apple lies next to the skin. It is therefore evident that the parings should be very thin in or der to retain the best portion of the food. The following recipes on this subject will be found satisfactory: APPI.ES IH JEIAY. Pare and core small-sized apples without cutting open. Put the applet with a lemon or two in a stew pan and cover with water. Let them simmer slowly until tender, and then remove without breaking. Make a syrup of a half ponndof white sugar to one pound of apples,cut the lemons in slices and put them, with the apples, into the syrup; boil very slowly till clear, and then 'place in a deep dish. Add one ounce of isinglass, dissolved, to the syrup; let it boil up, lay a slice of lemon on each apple and strain the syrup oyer them. APPLE COMPOTE. Peel, core and quarter six large apples, trimming each quarter so as to get them all of a size; drop them as they are done into cold water, with the jnice of a lemon squeezed into it to prevent their turning brown. Make a syrup with a pound of sugar and quart of boiling water. Drop the apples into this with the thin rind of a lemon and two or three cloves. As soon as they are cooked remove' care fully to a glass dish (heated). Pour the syrup over them and garnish with sliced citron. BAKED APPLES. Pare and core six or eight large tart apples. - Placs in a baking pan or shallow dish, fill tbe centers of the apples with sugar, pour in the dish half a cupful of boiling water, add a tablespoonful of butter and a half teacupful of white sugar. Orate over the top of the apples nutmeg, or sprinkle lightly with cinnamon. Baste frequently with the syrup in the pan. Bake half an hour. Serve with cream.; APPLE PUDDUTO so. 1. Seleot good tart apples, pare, core and cut into small pieces. Be generous in buttering the pudding pan. Cover the bottom with stale bread crumbs. Then a layer of apples. Sprinkle with sogar and spiee to taste, and add several small pieces of butter. Continue this process till the pan is full. Bake slowly for one hour. Serve with cream or sauce- APPLE PUDDHfO HO. 2. One quart of apple sauce, strained; one cupfnl of granulated sugar, the yelks of four well beaten" eggs. Flavor with lemon or nutmeg. Bake in a buttered pudding pan for 20 minutes in a quick oven. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and add two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar. Spread this over the hot pudding and brown slightly in an open oven. Serve when very cold with sponge drops. APPLE MEEINGUE. To one quart of tart apples, stewed and pressed through a sieve, add the yolks of three eggs well beaten. Sweeten to taste and flavor. Place in the oven, and when brown cover witb tbe meringue made as follows: Beat the white to a stiff froth with three table spoonfuls of powdered sugar. APPLE TAPIOCA PUDDING. Soak one cupful of tapioca, or sago, in a quart of boiling water for one hour. Add to it one cupful and a half of sugar and one teaspoonful of lemon flavor. Have ready six or eight tart apples, pared, cored and quartered, and pour over them the tapioca or sago and bake for one hour. APPLE PLOAT. Stew until tender six large, tart apples and press through a sieve. When cool add the juice of one lemon, two tablespoonfuls of white sugar, and the whites of three eggs. Beat to a stiff froth. Kill a dish or custard cups with soft cus tard and pile on it the troth. APPLE ICE. Select mellow apples, free from blemish, grate the,m and sweeten to taste. Place iu a freezer for two hours and no longer. Do not use the beater. CBAB-APPLE JELLY. Wash the apples, cut to pieces without paring or taking out the seeds. Put in a stone jar, set in a pot of hot water and let boil for eight hours. Jjcava in me jar an nigni, coyerea tightly. Next morning squeeze out the juice. Strain again without squeezing, and add a pound of sugar to a pint of iulce. A cup pf water to every six pounds of fruit may be added if the apples are very, SCALLOPED APPLES. Cover the bottom of a battered pudding dish witb peeled, sliced tart apples. Sprinkle with sugar, a little flour and grated nutmeg, and small bits of batter. Eepeat this process -until the dish is full. Bake in a moderate oven for one hour, covering the dish to prevent scorching. Serve hot or cold. APPLE SNOW. Peel and grate one large sour apple, sprinkling over it a small cupful of pow dered sugar as you grate it, to keep it from coloring. Break Into this the whites of two eggs and beat it all constantly for 80 minutes. The bowl in which this is beaten ihanM .ptUigt, Heap in a glass dish and pour a soft cus tard around it APPLE CAKE. Sift together one pint of floor, two tea spoonfuls of baking powder and one-half teaspoonful of salt, Bub one-quarter cup of butter into the flour, beat one egg light, add to it three quarters of a cup of cold water, and stir into the flour. Spread in well-buttered, shallow pans. Pare, core and quarter four or five tart apples, scatter them over the dough, sprin kle with sugar and cinnamon, and bake for 30 minutes. Serve with sauce. APPLE TSITXEBS. Sift together two cupfuls of flour, one teaspoonful baking powder and ft pinch of salt. To one cupful of sweet milk add the beaten yolks of two eggs. Stir in the flour, add the beaten whites and one teaspoonful of sugar. Mix through tbe batter choice tart apples and fry in hot lard. HABD SAUCE POB PUDDIHOB. Beat to a cream gradually one-half tea cupful of fresh butter and one teacupful of powdered sugar. Add to this mixture, by degrees, the white of one egg beaten to a BtijtT froth. Flour to taste. This sauce is excellent for bitter pud dings. MOLASSES SAUCE. One tablespoonful of flour, one table spoonful of butter, cooked until smooth. Add by degrees one cupful of good molasses. Let it simmer for a minute or two. add one tablespoonful of vinegar and hot water enough to maze it tblcK enough lor sauce. This is excellent for apple pudding and apple dumplings. Here are some general recipes: OEEAM 4akb. , Fat two well beaten sggs In a tea eup. fill It ud with sweet cream, then take one enp of sugar, one small teaspoonlnl oi soda, two tea. spoonfuls of cream of tartar; beat well to geiner, ana navor to lasie. Bake in a shallow pan. MOCK MINCE PIE. One cup ot raisins, one cup of syrnp. one cup of vinegar, one teaspoonful of alliplcs, one spoonful of cinnamon, three enns of water. Boll all together, and when cool add tht Vt ouua uiauitero ruiieu uae. This will make three pies. AFEICOT CREAM. Stew twelve canned apricots with half a pound of sugar, strain through a sieve and let mem cool. Mix them with half a glass of white wine. Pass tbe mixture again through the sieve and add sngar if not sweet enough; pour it into a mold and heat it bj placing it in a pan filled with boiling water. Serve In custard cups. GOOD COOKIES. One capful butter, two cupfuls white sugar, one cupful of sweet milk, one teaspoonful bak ing powder, two eggs, flour to roll well. SAGO PUDDING. Pick and wash through several waters five tablespoonfuls of sago. Boll In one quart of milk until quite soft with a stick of cinnamon. Then stir in one teacupful of butter and two of pounded loaf sugar. When it is cold add six eggs well beaten, and a little grated nutmeg. Mix all well together and bake in a buttered dish about three-quarters of an hour. SWEDISH JSLLY. Cover aknncklo of veal with water, add a small oalon and carrot, and let It boll until the meat is ready to fall off the bone. Take the meat and hash it fine and return to the liquor after it Is strained, and give It an- other boll until It jellies. Add salt, pepper, and the juice and rind of a lemon cut fine; then pour it Into a form and put In a cold place. If the knuckle of veal Is Urge, use three quarts of cold water, if small, two quarts, and let it boil slowly three or four hours. ELLICE SEEEifA. HOT OH Si-EAKEfG TEEMS. The Austrian Emperor Will Not Hear Yen Hollke Even In a Phonograph. KewTork Son.: The Austrian Emperor, Francis Joseph, was among the first to ask Mr, Edison's representative to give him opportunity to hear the phonograph's powers. Mr. Wange man was abont to place a cylinder bearing Von Moltke's voice upon the machine, but before turning the words of his old conqueror into the Emperor's ears tbe operator be thought himself to ask if he would like to hear them. A look of bitter memory came into the Emperor's face, and his reply was a short "No." The Yon Moltke cylinder was taken off, and a roll bearing extracts from one of the brightest operas was quickly substituted. Under the influence of, tbe musio the Austrian ruler soon forgot tbe revived memory of the German Oeneral's humbling of his nation. HOT PBACIICAL HEBE. The English Idea of Sabailtutlag Bicyclers for Cavalry Men. HewTorkWorla.3 The English idea of attaching to each regiment a bicycle corps has taken a strong hold upon Thomas Miller, Jr., a member of the New York Bicycle Club, and as a result a corps at Flushing, L. L, has been estab lished. It does not seem possible that any great amount of success will attend this venture, as the roads in this country would preclnde the making of anything like the fast time of a horse over rough places. The demands and vicissitudes ot war times lead regiments into strange places where the bicycle would be practically useless. ArTEMPEEOE'S TOYS. mementoes of the First Emperor William at the Hohenzoltorn Mneenm. PH Mall Budget The accompanying sketch was taken by our Berlin artist-at the Eohenzollern Mu seum, from tbe case in which some souvenirs of the old Emperor William L are pre served. The two cats are made of plaster, and represent the royal toys of the beginning of the present century. Tbe notebook on the left bears the inscription, first written in a childish hand and in pencil, and traded in ink, "Den 26. Februar eeachenkt bekommen, bon Fapan gesohenkt bekommen. Konigs berg, 2T. Februar, 1808. Wilhelm." On the title page of the old faymnbook the Emperor has written his name, the date, 22.3.6J, his fcotto, Matthew xxiv. 36, and the following verse or an old German hymn: J)er Herr bricht eln um Mltternacht: Jetzt 1st nocb Alles still. Wohl dem der lch sugf ertlff maehl TJnd lhm begegnen will. The cup was a wedding present, and for about 40 years the Emperor drank his morn ing coffee out of it Declare Like Pelleaaa. KewTork World. J "Confound iti Why, that doctor is a regular pelican!" "Pelican? Whatdoyosiajij . IwksVtttoslMtfHiVUir'. - ,& ' BRUISES AMD CHAIRS. Beckers and Darkness Unite to Pro dace Crops of Sore Shins. PHOSPHOEESCEKT PAIST A BOON. How the ladies Hake Mistakes In Selecting Home Furniture. TH2 IMPB0YBME5T IK WALL PAPEEB rwarrrM xon tss nisrxTCH. WHEN a woman un dertakes to throw into '(" her labor her full en thusiasm she exercises an influence which is utterly bewildering. None but a poetic woman would make S?""''' and plum tints three sizes too large for yon, along with a dress ing gown two sizes too small. It's only a charming creature who gets up a tobacco pouch in cherry and blue, or conceives those wonderful blotting pads, which no man would have tbe temerity to use. The con siderate angels tie a fellow's shaving paper together in a way that it would be sacrilege to disturb; they make pocket cases for pins A CBAZT QUILT that one never can get a pin out of. They make pen wipers, with pretty remarks on them, that a man would be brutal to muti late, but they do not throw the whole force of their delightful character into anything as they do into interior decorations. To those fair enthusiasts, who are prone to the purchase of trifles I would say: Avoid too many chairs in a room. Avoid rockers that get in the way and raise the temper and lumps on your shins. Avoid small tables which are so "cnte" those affairs that take up so much room and hold a conple of books or a vase that is in constant danger of upsetting. A friend of mine with a wile who insisted upon wicker rockers with dainty head rests, and small tables with blue china, and who frequently had to get up nights for the paregoric, went out one morning after a night's groping for the matcbbox,wbich his spouse assured him had only been filled the day before, but which was, as usual, empty and as full of barren ness as the air was full of brimstone went out, as I said, and brought home a pot of phosphorescent paint, which he dabbed on all corners, points and edges of those darling little rockers and sweet tables, decorating tbe matchbox, the bedposts, the gasbrackets and door knobs, determined upon avoiding the shoals and wreckages of the midnight cruise. And now, at night, the room looks like the ghort scene from "The Flying Dutch man." The phosphorescence gathers light all day and lets it loose all night; but there's no more black and bine spots and the toe romps fearless of the vioious chair leg. I show in one of the illustrations a sketch of what you might' call patch-work glass. Through the edges of .fragments of colored glass holes have been bored, and the pieces strung together in a sort ot fretwork valanee to go at the top of a window or doorway. Beads are frequently used for the same pur poselarge beads strung together crossed and recroised as a substitue for, expensive stained glass. It is an excellent idea. All bead transoms are expensive, and by intro ducing bits of bamboo, which yon can buy in lengths, like fish poles, and cut up and string on with the beads, you can cheapen the work very muoh. The bamboo lends itself to this sort of work very nicely, because you can color it all either white or gold or some other hue, and thus contribute not only to inexpensiveness, but to lending a distinctive character to the work. I had something in a previous letter to say about bedsteads to assure you that the brass did not tarnish; that it did not scratch any more than wood or as much; that it did not get rusty, and was not difficult to keep clean. Last week one of the largest retailers told me he had sold more brass and metal bedsteads during tbe last five months than during the last five years. For hospital uses they are almost universally used, and whenever the crib is discarded and Miss Four Years reaches the dignity of a bed, mamma now always thinks of either enamel or brass. For the white and gold craze, decorators merely touched up here and there some parts of the brass, hite. Now when the demand is all lor black and yellow the Bpanlsh effect they merely touch up the brass here and there black. The club men use them, tbe hotels are putting them in, in conformity with the English custom and three-quarters of the fashionable boudoirs have them. The latest wrinkle is to have the canopy run up from the side of the bed instead of the head and to have the draperies of the bed of the same material as the lace curtain. "Sets" are now furnishe in all sorts of lace ourtain goods whether of Notting ham, Cluny, Tambour, Arabo or other stuffs. Ton buy the curtains and inside sash hangings, bed canopy, bureau scarfs, tidies and bed covers to match. It all gives a finish to si bedroom that is delightful. Not one woman in ten, given the privi lege of selecting the chairs for a home, will mskea sensible purchase. Did you ever see a woman get'a seat in a horse car? She trips in with a bored look on her face, and almost Invariably stops in the doorway, sets firmly her lips, hunches her shoulders and settles herself resignedly against tbe sharp angle of the entrance. There are three or four seats up front, but she never sees them. Shfc gtzes away off with a sort of how-we-poor-women-do-suffer kind of look and forthwith some restless male spirit gets up and offers his seat. Then a faint beam of gratification appears and' she says, "Don't rise" but the sacrificing iellow does rise just the same and promptly strides up front ana spreads niniseu an over a jaru oiuu occupied seating. It's the same way in a house. Watch a man enter a room and nine times out of ten he'll scan it in a jiffy and pick out a comfortable chair, if it's there, but a woman, neverl The first thing at hand she drops on and there's an end oi it. A man wants a place to put himself and plenty of it. Over 300 patents have been got out upon reclining chairs and yet a woman everlastingly buys a spindle legged rocker. The old-time gimp loops far kiwtaiju j 9 f i wk' n Oil are passe. They are seldom seen any more, the curtain being caught baek by bows in stead, or in fact in any graceful way as long as you avoid the conventional gimp. Were you never disgusted by the tawdry display of window shades along the street? Take your own block for instance. It's a brick row, and yet at one house are green shades,, another yellow, the next bine and I ilj.il i - "-i ' ' " f t"i"1 Jill I n?v'?-ilv Side Draping for a Med. so on till the effect of it all is simply horrible. If all tbe houses would adopt some one natural tint that would harmonize with the exteriors, the appearance would be wonderfully im proved. As it is. an entire neighborhood is made to look common by the window shades at one or two Rouses. One neighbor across the street, when asked why she had brown shades at her downstairs windows and terra cotta upstairs, replied, resentfully, "to har monize with my turnishings, of course." OP COLORED GLASS. "But it makes vonr homo InnV KuH from the outside; and then the neighbor hood" But the poor, dear creaturel I don't sup pose one woman in a hundred no, not one in 500 is aware that there are such things as double-faced shades shades that have one color on one side and another on the re verse, .take a brown stone row of houses. What a charming, refined appearance they nuuiu nave ii an were furnished with shades showing from the street a natural holland or cream tint Inside, of course, nave your reverse colon, anvthinw mn please red for your red room and blue for your. -Ah, but," you say. "I never knew there were such shades." Well, you know now. The reverse kind shouldn't cost but a trine more than the common one-color affair. Last month a dealer up in Union square, New York, said that in 1837 he made parlor curtains for one of the old swell residences, down by Bond street, which became the talk of those old-fashioned four hundred, they were so aesthetic Thev were made of ordinary turkey red and cost about 25 cents a yard. This was in 1837, remember. "To day," continued my informant, "I sold a lot of rose-colored brocade to a descendant of that same family, and will charge over $20,000 for just the coverings of her ball room walls." We in this country make wall paper very creditably, but it is only of late years that the American manufacturers have attempted anything in the grand and glorious wall covers that the famous Arthur or Jeffries of England produce. Abroad, manufacturers employ artists who charge $300 for a design. We are gradually making that same class of goods in this countrv, and one line that I recently saw was simplv magnificent. None of your 8 cents a roll paper, but $8, $10, $15 a roll. The stjles were all in the French school, little fcnoV .little ribbons, with dados on the colonial idea, with hints at oriole windows and graceful loopings. No more Indian figures or tile patterns. Everything is Frenoh. All countries, all products are bowing low to the Gallic influence, and laurel festoon and small detached sprays of maidenfern or rosebuds are sprinkled over a plain, soft ground, not in reckless profusion, but fully two feet separated the one from tbe other. Then there is the other extreme. Tremend ous tulips, twice the natural size, and hnge foliage, likewise of heroic dimension. During the last Tew years a great deal of attention has been given to bed dressing. Whst was heretofore a neglected object in a room is now a thing or beauty as well as comfort. The bed is provided nowadays with side draperies. The bed is no longer thrown together of a morning and tucked in "at the sides," bnt covered by a proper drapery and looped up and "hung" and it must be admitted that the idea very greatly improves things. C. B. Clippobd. TEE JTOGE m A HUBBY. A Cass That Was Rnahed la Order to Get to a Hnnt. Youth's Companion. Jndge Irwin, one of the early Justices in Wisconsin, was more remarkable for his hunting adventures than for his legal knowl edge. The lawyers who argued their cases before him were often compelled to put over their work while the Jndge adjourned court in order to go hunting. The following charge was given by him to a jury in 1841: "It appears from the evidence that the piaintis and defendant in this aation are brothers-in-law. On the Wabash river, in the State of Indiana, they associated them selves together for the purpose of swindling their neighbors. Not content with that, they got to swindling each other, and I am like the woman who saw her lfusband and a bear fight: 'Fight, husband, fight, bear; I don't care which beats.' "And, gentlemen of the jury, it is a matter of indifference tome how70U bring In your verdict, only be quick about it." Five minutes after the jury had retired, the Sheriff was instructed to see if they had agreed. A negative answer was returned; whereupon the jury was immediately ordered injand discharged, and the Judge made ready for a-hunt. OLD NAHUN CHUT A Symptom or aa Outbreak of Pbpnlar De mand for It In Louden. Fall Mall Badget. Old Nankin china has come into favor again, Mr. Dickinson,' of Wigmore street, told me. This is partly owing to Whistler's introducing the canary-colored walls, to whom a long-necked blue and white vase has just been sold. It was a dragon on a white ground, and he said be couldn't resist it, though rather expensive. "Here's half a dozen plates that are geing to Mrs. Humphry'Ward," said the dealer. "They've got the hawthorn snrav" a valu able design in Nankin china. These will make up Mrs. Ward's set There are vases from 18d to mere than 1,809s. The prices ssfediafaLitni startling to these igseraat IN COUNTRY HOUSES. Bow England's Rich and Koble Folk Spend Part of the Summer. AS MUCH FORM. AS IN GAY LOHDOff. Costumes for Eoalinj on the Thames and for Tennis Playing. EXAMPLE OP THE PBIHCE OP WALES tCOBZXSFOXSXXCX OT THE DISPATCHI London, August 9. Country house visiting is an immense institution in En gland, and exists to the same extent no where else, although our elegant French cousins, in their present mania for every thing British, are trying hard to introduce it into their stiff chateaux. Things have changed very much since old-fashioned days, when people paid visits of a month's duration, and when the height of ambition of every outsider was to be received into county society, the members of which en tertained one another with due solemnity. Even county society in these democratic days is less exclusive, and consequently more lively than it used to- be. As for length, few visits, except in out-of-the-way shooting boxes up in the highlands, last over a week, and frequently large parties are made up for only a three days' stay. This is especially the ease if the object of the meeting is some race meeting or county ball, while in professional circle., for peo ple whose country place! are within easy reach oi London, Saturday to Monday visits have become a recognized institution all through the summer. SIGNS 01 A GOOD TIME. For visiting to be really enjoyable, one's host should be rich and able to provide his guests with all the luxuries of modern life. A friend of mine, who in vulgar language knew "what was what," used to -say that she always judged prophetically on the oc casion of a first visit as.'to how she would be treated, by the way she was to be met at the station; and that if a smart carriage and pair with a footman were in attendance, she felt a pleasing certainty that the creature comforts would be well p'rovided for. There is nothing in .the world more com fortable than a well-managed English country-house, where one's every wish is antici pated, and where everything from the French cooking downward, seems to act by machinery. But the machinery in this case is usually to be found in the brain of the hostess, for it requires no little tact and fore thought to keep a large party amused and provided for. The main point abont En glish country-house life is the immense amount of freedom that reigns there. A model host and hostess suggest alternative amusements, and leave it to their guesU to choose which they prefer. THE FASHIONABLE MEALS. Breakfast is usually a conveniently mova ble feast somewhere between 9 and 10:30 o'clock, and dinner alone is the one cere monious event of tbe day when everyone is bound to be present and punctual. But dinner nowadays never takes place till 8 o'clock at night, and otten in imitation of Her Majesty not till 9 o'cloct. What with boating and tennis in the summer, shooting, riding and hunting in the autumn and winter, with billiards on wet days and im promptu dancing and music after dinner, it is not very difficult to while away the days pleasantly. Perhaps the most popular of all summer visiting is staying on the river the "river" to the Londoner invariably meaning the Thames. Anyone lucky enough to possess a place on one of the beautiful river reaches near Henley or Wargrave is regarded as a public benefactor. Even for a medium sized house on the Thames the sum of 30 or 40 guineas a week is .frequently paid. En tertaining, too, is so easy under the circum stances; when your hostess has provided a variety of boats and punts, an abundance of soft cushions and a well-stocked luncheon and tea-basket, happiness is within the reaoh of everybody. BELLES ON THE TVATEB. After all there is nothing more perfect on earth than paddling a canoe with a con genial companion on a drowsy June day up one of the many lovely backwaters of dear old "Father Thames." English girls take to boating as thoroughly as to tennis, and hundreds of graceinl, active figures, clad in the regular town sailor bat, stiff linen shirt and man's 'tie, and blue or white serge skirt, may be seen any snmmer day rowing, paddling and punting with as much ease and success as their Eton and Oxford-bred brothers. And then, what endless oppor tunities for flirtation and love making under the willow trees on the shady river banks! A regnlar Scotch shooting box is by no means such a paradise for tbe female sex. Indeed, unless ladies take to shooting them selves like the Comtesse de Paris, Lady Florence -Dixie and a few other kindred spirits, they generally complain. The men are out shooting six days in the rivers, and hcome home in tbe evening so tired and ex hausted that as olten as not they fall asleep in the drawing room after dinner. The only standing form of entertainment is to meet the shooters on the moors with their midday luncheon; but the pleasure of sitting out on a damp hillside, in order to eat cold beef, is small indeed. QOWSB FOB COUNTRY HOUSES. This same great question of gowns forms, of course, an immense consideration in pay ing visits. Indeed, to some feminine minds one of the main pleasures consists in wear ing one's best frocks every day. There is practically no limit to tbe number of dresses required, for everyone dresses three or four times a day, just the same as in London. Except in the hot summer months, when cotton frocks are necessarr, smart tailor made gowns with an infinite variety ot knowing ties and waistcoats are the usual country wear; but you must have besides, according to circumstances, boating and tennis dresses, riding habits, elegant tea gowns to slip on for 5 o'clock tea after a wet and muddy tramp, and, of coarse, dinner and ball gowns ad infinitum. The Princess of Wales and her daughters set a very good example of sensible dressing and healthy outdoor amusements. At Sandringhan" the old traditions of 'country house life are thoroughly kept up, and a great deal oi picnicking, riding and driving of ponv carts is indulged in by all the young people. One oi the Princess of Wales' pet institutions is a lovely model dairy with a teahouse attached. The Prince himself is of course a thorough sportsman and visits about a good deal in tbe autumn for shoot ing purposes. On these occasions he invar iably makes up the whole house party, and it is said that the owner of these earelully preserved covers is frequently not even in vited to join the royal shooting party the honor of entertaining H. B. H. being con sidered quite sufficient reward for, all the trouble and expense. MACLEOD. SHE 13 PICTURESQUE. Something About the .Toilet of Mrs. Oscar Wilde That Z.adlea Worihlp. Mrs. Oscar Wilde has the reputation of being the most pictnresque woman in Lon don, says the New York World. A conple of years ago she adopted the Liberty silk gown, and fashion went mad and miles to see htr. Now she wears black and white, black and gold, and black and cress green, andtba cut of her gowns is quite as remarkable as tbe seamless clinging robe designed by Burne-Jones ten years ago. The gold or yellow frocks, toned down with black feath-, era, gauze r lace, are reserved for landscape effects, the black and green for daylight in teriors, and the white and black for gas light. This evening dress is all of black bengal ine, made Greek fashion, with Grecian em broidery of gold, and worn with white shoes and a white boa. Her bouquet is always the same tieph¬is smothered In fata, leave. -J -st
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers