Pittsburg dispatch. (Pittsburg [Pa.]) 1880-1923, August 17, 1890, THIRD PART, Page 20, Image 20

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OOTPITTSBTJBG--DIsETOH, SUNDAY, ' AUGUST flT, 1890
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FASHIONS FROM ABROAD.
Sblrlev Sara's Opinion of Foreign Hate,
Dresses and feklrie Tbe English Maid
en's Style Something Abont Dinners
nsa Table Decorallon Women Reform
era. rwaxTTsar roa mx cisriTCH.l
The fashion! irom abroad send the airiest
of hats and studies of wash silk and fine
cotton gowns in little variations on each
other. The hats have transparent brims,
for instance one 'with broad brim of black
set embroidered in white point esprit, laid
in quilles on the satin wired foundation, the
crown of large bine corn flowers clustered
to Teil but not to conceal the hair, with
aigrette of the flowers at the left, muses of
gaily striped ribbon bows, with late flow
ers, like yellow and black rndbeckia, zin
nias and chrysanthemums or large starry
asters are seen as fall approaches.
These rich flowers and ribbons are agree
able alternatives for the wings and velvet
of the first of September hats. These are
Yiennese models. The English hats and
bonnets of the season are things to wonder
at, not to admire. The effort seems to be to
pet a sailor hat on the tall pork pie to which
the English girl still fondly clings.
2IA2BIAGEABLE BRITONS.
It is not remarkable that money is the
only bait which tempts the ordinary En
glish young man into marrying. It would
take a very large iortune to overcome one's
reluctance to the tall and awkward English
girl, who wears the most unbecoming things
on principle, one would say, and is the most
utter and incredible innocent and fool on
many points that blots this lower air.
If she is 6 feet 2 in height, with a 16-inch
-waist, she always wears a melancholy long
cloak or a short "smart" jacket, which
gives her the benefit of all her length, and
The Tramvurenl Hat.
tops the figure with a pork pie hat and tbe
closest possible brim. If she talks, if she
gets off the stillness and reserve which
limits her conversation to the two responses
"Indeed" and "Fawncy" tbe experi
ment is apt to make American society rather
nervous inside often minutes.
Her calling a spade a spade is bad enough
sometimes, if she would only stick to spades
and not wander off into terrible recitals of
hunting mishaps which involve "getting
bogged," or narratives of seasickues,or
the last divorce case with a naivete which
puts the gentlemen to flight in five minutes.
THE MODEL THEY FOLLOW.
A middling middle-class English woman
must be of all creatures on earth the most
trying to live witb, if her companion has a
spark of originality or taste. The better
class English woman unconsciously models
herself on tbe high-bred ladies she meets
abroad and travel is a forcible educator.
The.colonization of French dressmakers in
London has done everything lor her dress,
so that a really elegant Londoner might
pass for a Yiennese as far as toilet is con
cerned. The instructed American has a natural
eye for dress, and will by and by be among
tbe'best dressed women on the earth when
she learns the artistic virtue and value of
simplicity not to gouge out a scallop here
or a gash and a goint there for the mere sake
of slashing and gouging, or to insist on hav
ing her skirt arranged in pleats one side and
looped the other for fear of uniformity.
Uniformity and rest for the eye is what we
want, not mere variety for the sake of va
riety. A PREVALENT TORSI OP INSANITX.
There is a certain insanity in this de
mand for constant change in shapes and
trimmings, the inability to restore any idea
which marks tbe flighty demented. Among
the most approvable of the late designs from
abrojd is a walking dress which might be
worn by a young grand duchess at a Ger
man or'French spa. Mark the transparent
hat of the Housselicede soie, with fluted
brim, graceful, frilled fichu and moderate
sleeve, close enough on the forearm for the
long Tyrol glove to protect it, the plain full
skirt with beading at the wide hem.
It is a pretty model for fine cambric or
soft-printed linen. The huge rush chair
ffhioh screens from the wind shows how
completely our continental friends study
comfort. Another figure in crepon and silk
is a study for early fall dress. The skirt,
alternately of plain wool and knife pleated
Bilk, reverts to the accordion idea, which is
pretty in spite of its vulgarization. The
sleeves may be of damask, in embossed
figures or in the fine cutwork done by hand,
vhich Is as different from the coarse ma
chine work seen as Valenciennes is from
crochet.
CTV COSTUMES FOE TUTS DAMES.
Damask silts in old Italian patterns of
peacock feathers, plumes, palms and
heraldic figures, are In high vogue abroad
with the inner circles of fashion. N ewer pat
terns are distinct ferns and papyrus or rich
diaper, made up witb lustrous sottgros
grain. Long polonaise 'effects will be seen
-in autumn dresses, witb wide vests of em
broidery or seeded jet. Yery rich plain
princess gowns of damask or plain silk have
a close-fitting skeleton visite, ontlining the
shoulders and extending in long points on
the skirt.
This beaded attachment is fastened by
books and eyelets to the waist so as to be de
tached when desired. Cloth gowns will be
simple, with embroidered or beaded nect
i band and waists, large velvet pockets and
frkisC yrb0'K. ""luess u neia by two large
folds -aca uae -" 'runt, oeia are not
worn wltnf new dresses.
gJjOTIXO DRESSES.
The shooting dsli '"""j '
mountain climbing nSSSXIt,U'
or amateur gardening, ftrTJ ?V,?!1
acme excellent examples t5"? L&$r
women. A neighbor of Mrs? -Hicks Lord
speaks ofseemg that lady bnujXH" "
den mornings with trowel and pla-4 "
aerially digging in tne nower oeos wiin--
nwnnanas. Anawnynow j.m u vertigo
for beauty and good spirits sad demands a
(ires aeeerdisgly. , A plain skirt of home-
spun, tweed or linen twill, short to the an
kle, with Norfolk jacket and ample pockets
on the outside of tbe skirt just In reach of
the hands, is worn by English ladies for
shooting over the turnips.
It is to be hoped our women will be con
tent to don the dress" and draw the line at
shooting. Killing for amusement is such
unconditional cruelty that a woman wholly
unsexes herself in attempting this sport
One can feel more respect lor a Sarah Althea
Tsrry drawing a pistol over her injuries
than for a well bred woman killing birds be
cause it is the fashion.
a gardening costume.
For gardening or walks through the dew
the skirt is faced ten inches outside of the
hem with fine waterproof. The jersey
drawers and stockings in one of black wool
are worn with such a dress, or the knicker
bockers of cloth like the skirt High top
boots are an affectation, the buttoned gaiter
to the knee being very much better. Gloves
of reindeer skin are advised, as they will
wear and wash. Linen gaiters to the ankle
are very neat and comfortable for town or
country in tbe dusty aays. .cor pwiss
climbing English women discard veils as
useless against the elare of sun and snow.
Instead they wear a horror of a mask of
thin flannel, with a gathered piece over the
nose! A turkey rattle must be ornamental
by tbe side of snch a disguise. It is no
wonder that one of their own sisterhood
writes that the walking dresses of English
women abroad "too often combine ugliness
and unsuitability in an almost incredible
degree."
THE DIVIDED SKIRT.
"Women seem to be slightly or more than
slightly off their heads about the divided
skirt, or leglette, as Mrs. Jenness-Miller hss
it The latest development is a skirt on an
entirely new principle devised by a London
tailor. " The peculiar feature is that it is
closed at the edge, with openings for the
feet to pass through.
A piece of cloth some four yards long, we
are told, is used for the front and back
widths alone. Instead of cutting them the
needed length in the usual way, the stuff is
hemmed up a certain depth, the extra length
connecting the two breadths, tbe side widths
are fitted in and 6penings left for the feet.
The description is copied exactly,but if
you get any idea how the thing is made and
how it is worn, you gain more than I do.
Still, all the advantages are claimed for the
new invention healtb, lightness and
warmth and whatever else dress reformers
and doctors desire. I fail to see any benefit
in these reforms beyond giving unsettled
women something to get excited over,
IT IS NOT PRACTICABLE.
"The amount of flop to be found in these
feur yard pantalettes, with a brisk wind
round the corner, is all an ordinary woman
wants to contend with. Tbe Turks and
Albanians get so wound up in their full
trousers that they cannot run away in battle,
and histories tell of battles lost because of
divided drapery muffling the motions of
troops. Perhaps the economy recommends
the divisors, as the plainest cambric sell at
i and a pair of carmine flannel come at
$14, and it is no wonder the Boston woman
who had a pair to go to Europe wore them
till they hung in strips from the waistband.
Frequent changes of underwear at such
price are beyond the reach of most ordinary
women, but the bag skirt of the Conduit
street tailor is a wonder and an amaze.
How do you get into it? And how is that
four yards of length taken up? It can't be
the right sort of reform, for it isn't divided,
all salvation in a dress reform view depend
ing on wearing one's clothes in divisions not
apparent to. sight or feeling.
A HEAL REFORM.
The real improvement of late in dresses is
lining the widths with stiff, light material,
which keeps it out from the limbs and gives
freedom and coolness. The best shops keep
the satine skirt with two or three rattans
run in casings to wear witb lawns and limp
bengalines old fashioned, but very light
and comfortable, not to say becoming.
Nothing in the way of fancy ornaments
has been as satisfactory as the black enamel
flowers for brooches, whether the pansy
with- a diamond dew-drop which, one
may have for a morning pin at 35, or the
same design in rhinestone for $3. The idea
was too pretty not to be' experimented on,
and this season has the same designs in
white enamel and brilliants the daintiest
of summer ornaments.
Daisy, primrose, pansy, starflower and
four leavea clover are a few designs, cool
looking and durable. The new diamond
eardrops are hung by a hinge to the wire,
iving the most tremulous light to their
eautv. Etruscan gold set with small dia
monds is worn for day ornaments, and is
more beautiiui than costly.
JOE TABLE USE.
Sets of peach knives, with curved, keen
pointed, gold-plated blades and handles oi
Hungarian porcelain are the last coquetry
of the dinner table. Exquisite dessert
bowls and flagons appear in the amber glass,
cased in gold filigree, set with sparks of
jeweled glass, if pot real small stones. The
choicest dinners, however, for summer are
set out with white, satiny linen and abun
dance of crystal in pierced silver setting,
and enly faintly tinged flowers and ferns
aro allowed in tbe white, icy glitter. The
Iilusb dinner scarfs and colored satin under
ays are left to hotel and restaurant or middle-class
dinners.
A plush mat with wine drops or spots of
gravy grows hideous. It is out of taste at
best About our eating we want nothing
that will not wash and come out purity
itself. Beside, plush and satin are
"smelly," and recall the roast duck and
celerv sauce too long. Linen damask, cut
work and drawn borders are the only fabrics
wabie near a dinner unie. ana taste art
,nt enouga la an cobkubm, 'Xba
Jin Airy Midsummer Frock.
im
flowers are best of the scentless sort, or with
subdued perfume.
IN BAD TASTE.
The dipner favors lately told of, with
four yards of ribbon to the posey, savor of
the haberdasher's shop. "Why notdecorato
with artificial flowers and millinery
entirely? Have the flowers in clear crystal
and silver holders, plain glasses in silver
cups, card holders and pin baskets answer
ing every purpose when cake baskets and
decanter' stands give out, making a cordon
of small vases border the table, with a tall,
slender center piece, whose long feathery
trails fall fringe-like to the cloth.
Seeding and quaking grasses are very
graceful among the flowers, which should
be starry and single or much ruffled and
silky leaved. The big hybrid perpetual
roses are too much for graceful decoration.
They look fitter for the salad bowl. Be
tween the onter vases arrange oblong dishes
of dessert fruits, the smaller the better, as
the Alpine strawberries, which are in supply
till November if anyone takes the trouble to
grow them, a saucer of which will perfume
a room. But no crystallized fruit in sum
mer, please, although the gracious English
writers whose ideas we are working over do
recommend them for the frnitless dinner
tables in London.
07 NO USE.
Trails of the edible flowers fashionable at
wedding breakfasts will we dispense witb.
Edible flowers are a distinct sensualism. A
drift of nasturtium petals over the salad
bowls is as far as one cares to go in that
direction. That reminds me, the last new
flavoring in soda water is "crushed violets."
and tastes suffocating a cosmetic sort of
taste, as u one was imbibing a balmy tenet
lotion. Edible flowers! I had, as soon but
ter my bread with vaseline.
Although at the Stanley -wedding the
feature of the vredding breakfast was the
lovely crystallized edible roses, gardenias
and orange flowers arranged in sprays along
the table, here is something prettier and
more suitable: Sow your date stones in
small flower pots filled with rich, peaty soil
and sand; water well and keep warm, and
they grow into pretty table palms, with long
pinnate leaves.
The florists abroad grow quantities of
them for the table and house decoration.
Probably we cannot with these treat our
selves to the guipure tablecloths from the
Yosges, which sell for ducal tables with
their dozen of serviettes for 240 apiece.
Neither do we desire our pillow cases worked
with hunting scenes, towns and landscapes,
as were those of the Austrian Archduchess
just married. One would fancy the wild
huntsman careering through one's dreams.
Slip a handful of fresh rose petals inside
your pillow case daily and you will envy
neither duke nor kaiser his delights. The
best are in reach of as all.
Shiblet Dabs.
TTETt FOBTUmE IS MALE.
A London Flower Pntnter Whom Royal
Patronage Has Made the Rage.
Miss Ada Bell, the flower painter of Lon
don, has jumped with a bound from obscur
ity to fashion. Her fortune is made. Not
long ago, explains the New York World,
Miss Bell succeeded in getting an order
from the Princess of Wales for a panel to be
placed in a writing desk. The design hap
pily included the favorite posey of the
Princess, and when finished was sent to her
with a tiny card containing tbe compli
ments of the artist Women are rarely as
business-like as this.
The courtesy and modesty charmed the
Princess, and after the exchange of letters
came an invitation lor an audience at Marl
borough. The young artist was as pleasing
as her flowers. She had her wits about her
and her ears very wide open. Among other
things she learned of the approaching birth
day of the Empress Frederick, to whom the
Princess offered to present her. Miss Bell
went home, locked herself in her sky studio,
and did not quit her paints until she had
finished a fan worthy of the royal lady's
acceptance. '
Two years ago the Empress visited the
Children's Hospital on Ormond street, an
institution in which the artist is also inter
ested. Tbe fan in question contained a
miniature sketch recalling a scene in one of
the sick wards, where the Empress stooped
to fan the face of a dying child. The foun
dation of the fan is black lace of violet pat
tern with encircling hearts, and the sticxs
of green mother-of-pearl shade off to
pink. In this delicate background Miss
Bell used pearl tints of mauve, pink and
green, producing an effect as exquisite as
the Watleau paintings.
In the center of the fan appeared a wood
land scene, showing a sleeping nymph
fanned by sporting cupids that danced
among white and purple violets. Sprigs of
heartease and memory knots were scattered
over the pearl sticks, the outer or top one
containing a miniature portrait of the late
Emperor Frederick set in a heart-shaped
crystal.
This lovely bit of lace, pearl and paint
was sent to the Empress, -who dispatched
her appreciation of the gift and work
through a live Count Just before leaving
England tbe artist was sent for and ap
peared at Buckingham Palace, when the
Empress attached her autograph to a picture
that Miss Bell exhibited a year ago in honor
of the Queen's birthday. This painting has
since been sold for. the benefit of the Chil
dren's Hospital at a sum several pounds
larger than the yearly earnings of the young
lady. But Mis Bell is the rage. Her pic
tures please royalty, and she is able to sell
every posey she paints, and at her own
price, too.
AN AFEIOAH ULY.
Stanley Bros got Home a Perfume That Has
Sec All the ladles Wild.
Washington Poit J
The fashionable enthusiasm of the hour is
for a new perfume from a marvelous lily
that grows in African jungles. Mr. Stanley
found this flower and brought back a large
jar of its leaves to his bride-elect Imme
diately every great dame in England
wanted it, and by some mysterions process
some of them obtained it, and now, of course,
the women of New York want it, and they
won't be happy till they get it
Those who have caught a whiff of this
wonderful perfume say that it is a mixture
of jasmine, lilac, lily of the valley, and
rose, and is altogether intoxicating.
TOTOGEB THAN HER DAUGHTER,
Marie Walowrlgbt Is a Great Favorite at
Saratoga This Senses,
Mew York lTess.3
Miss Marie Wainwright, the aotress, is
one of the most notable characters at Sara
toga this season, notable chiefly because she
hss a daughter with her who Is said to be 18,
and she herself does not look over 16 that
is, at a distance. Her hair is blonde, her
eyebrows and eyelashes delicately penciled,
and her face is pink and white, as only the
band of an artist knows how to make it
She occupies a private cottage belonging to
one of tbe hotels, and is conspicuous on the
promenades and other places where fashion
and beauty congregate.
SUGGESTS WHITE WDTGS.
Description or a TIsloa at a Prettx Lady
Back of Her Harp.
Washington Pott,
Harp playing is a very picturesque and
artistio accomplishment which constantly
finds new votaries. A pretty woman with
a golden harp against her shoulder, her
slender band and supple wrist outlined
against its strings, is so suggestive of cheru
bim and seraphim, of white wings, so envel
oped in a misty atmosphere of saintliness
and general loveliness that a man can't even
think the profane things that he says boldly
abont the piano banger and violin scraper,
even if no two strings are tuned in the same
key.
Tbe MnnnUh Dress Enge.
Hew York World.l
Full many a maid, of purest nerve serene,
You may dlicorer in tbe sex called lair,
Who doss not blush in pubUo to be seen
When she her brother's Helta Ihlrt doth
wen,
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THE USEFUL APPLE.
Not Tory Nutritions but a Food That
Serves Good Purposes.
DIFFEBEHT WATS OF PREPARING.
Blliee Serena's Directions for Dozens of
Palatable Dishes.
A TAEIETI OP 8IMPLI BECIPES
IWBlTTXg TOB TITS DISPATCH.!
Apples are the most appreciated of our
domestlo fruits. Erom tbe number and
varieties which have been produced by skill
end care, it is plainly evident that some are
better adapted to the use of the table than
others. While they are grown all over the
world, it is conceded that those produced in
the United States arethebelst; but in those
districts, both of this country and of Eu
rope, where their cultlvatien is more highly
attended to and their relative merits are best
known, they are cultivated for three special
purposes, namely, for dessert or use in their
uncooked state; for culinary or cooking pur
poses, and for cider. They are regarded
rightly as one of our best and safest fruits,
and they may be cooked in a great variety
of ways.
Apples for table use should have a sweet,
juicy pulp, and rich, aromatic flavor, while
those suitable for cooking should possess the
property of forming a uniform, soft, pulpy
mass when boiled or baked. Contrary to
generally accepted opinion, apples uncooked
are not readily digestible; and, while they
may be cooked before they are ripe, for des
sert purposes, they should not be used until
perfectly ripe. Apples do not contain many
ingredients of a nutritive kind, and more
than one-half of their substanoe consists of
water. , They are, therefore, not muoh of a
nutrient, but they are nevertheless a very
useful adjunot to other food. Cooked, they
are laxative. By the process of cooking the
acid, for tne.'greater part, is decomposed and
converted into sugar. This process takes
place in the sweet or eating apple, in due
course of nature, as the fruit ripens.
The most nutritious part of the apple lies
next to the skin. It is therefore evident
that the parings should be very thin in or
der to retain the best portion of the food.
The following recipes on this subject will
be found satisfactory:
APPI.ES IH JEIAY.
Pare and core small-sized apples without
cutting open.
Put the applet with a lemon or two in a
stew pan and cover with water.
Let them simmer slowly until tender, and
then remove without breaking.
Make a syrup of a half ponndof white
sugar to one pound of apples,cut the lemons
in slices and put them, with the apples, into
the syrup; boil very slowly till clear, and
then 'place in a deep dish.
Add one ounce of isinglass, dissolved, to
the syrup; let it boil up, lay a slice of lemon
on each apple and strain the syrup oyer
them.
APPLE COMPOTE.
Peel, core and quarter six large apples,
trimming each quarter so as to get them all
of a size; drop them as they are done into
cold water, with the jnice of a lemon
squeezed into it to prevent their turning
brown.
Make a syrup with a pound of sugar and
quart of boiling water.
Drop the apples into this with the thin
rind of a lemon and two or three cloves.
As soon as they are cooked remove' care
fully to a glass dish (heated).
Pour the syrup over them and garnish
with sliced citron.
BAKED APPLES.
Pare and core six or eight large tart
apples. -
Placs in a baking pan or shallow dish,
fill tbe centers of the apples with sugar,
pour in the dish half a cupful of boiling
water, add a tablespoonful of butter and a
half teacupful of white sugar.
Orate over the top of the apples nutmeg,
or sprinkle lightly with cinnamon.
Baste frequently with the syrup in the
pan.
Bake half an hour.
Serve with cream.;
APPLE PUDDUTO so. 1.
Seleot good tart apples, pare, core and cut
into small pieces.
Be generous in buttering the pudding
pan.
Cover the bottom with stale bread crumbs.
Then a layer of apples.
Sprinkle with sogar and spiee to taste,
and add several small pieces of butter.
Continue this process till the pan is full.
Bake slowly for one hour.
Serve with cream or sauce-
APPLE PUDDHfO HO. 2.
One quart of apple sauce, strained; one
cupfnl of granulated sugar, the yelks of four
well beaten" eggs.
Flavor with lemon or nutmeg.
Bake in a buttered pudding pan for 20
minutes in a quick oven.
Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth,
and add two tablespoonfuls of powdered
sugar.
Spread this over the hot pudding and
brown slightly in an open oven.
Serve when very cold with sponge drops.
APPLE MEEINGUE.
To one quart of tart apples, stewed and
pressed through a sieve, add the yolks of
three eggs well beaten.
Sweeten to taste and flavor.
Place in the oven, and when brown cover
witb tbe meringue made as follows: Beat
the white to a stiff froth with three table
spoonfuls of powdered sugar.
APPLE TAPIOCA PUDDING.
Soak one cupful of tapioca, or sago, in
a quart of boiling water for one hour.
Add to it one cupful and a half of sugar
and one teaspoonful of lemon flavor.
Have ready six or eight tart apples,
pared, cored and quartered, and pour over
them the tapioca or sago and bake for one
hour.
APPLE PLOAT.
Stew until tender six large, tart apples
and press through a sieve.
When cool add the juice of one lemon,
two tablespoonfuls of white sugar, and the
whites of three eggs.
Beat to a stiff froth.
Kill a dish or custard cups with soft cus
tard and pile on it the troth.
APPLE ICE.
Select mellow apples, free from blemish,
grate the,m and sweeten to taste.
Place iu a freezer for two hours and no
longer.
Do not use the beater.
CBAB-APPLE JELLY.
Wash the apples, cut to pieces without
paring or taking out the seeds.
Put in a stone jar, set in a pot of hot
water and let boil for eight hours.
Jjcava in me jar an nigni, coyerea
tightly.
Next morning squeeze out the juice.
Strain again without squeezing, and add
a pound of sugar to a pint of iulce.
A cup pf water to every six pounds of
fruit may be added if the apples are very,
SCALLOPED APPLES.
Cover the bottom of a battered pudding
dish witb peeled, sliced tart apples.
Sprinkle with sugar, a little flour and
grated nutmeg, and small bits of batter.
Eepeat this process -until the dish is full.
Bake in a moderate oven for one hour,
covering the dish to prevent scorching.
Serve hot or cold.
APPLE SNOW.
Peel and grate one large sour apple,
sprinkling over it a small cupful of pow
dered sugar as you grate it, to keep it from
coloring.
Break Into this the whites of two eggs and
beat it all constantly for 80 minutes.
The bowl in which this is beaten ihanM
.ptUigt,
Heap in a glass dish and pour a soft cus
tard around it
APPLE CAKE.
Sift together one pint of floor, two tea
spoonfuls of baking powder and one-half
teaspoonful of salt,
Bub one-quarter cup of butter into the
flour, beat one egg light, add to it three
quarters of a cup of cold water, and stir into
the flour.
Spread in well-buttered, shallow pans.
Pare, core and quarter four or five tart
apples, scatter them over the dough, sprin
kle with sugar and cinnamon, and bake for
30 minutes.
Serve with sauce.
APPLE TSITXEBS.
Sift together two cupfuls of flour, one
teaspoonful baking powder and ft pinch of
salt.
To one cupful of sweet milk add the
beaten yolks of two eggs.
Stir in the flour, add the beaten whites
and one teaspoonful of sugar.
Mix through tbe batter choice tart apples
and fry in hot lard.
HABD SAUCE POB PUDDIHOB.
Beat to a cream gradually one-half tea
cupful of fresh butter and one teacupful of
powdered sugar.
Add to this mixture, by degrees, the white
of one egg beaten to a BtijtT froth.
Flour to taste.
This sauce is excellent for bitter pud
dings. MOLASSES SAUCE.
One tablespoonful of flour, one table
spoonful of butter, cooked until smooth.
Add by degrees one cupful of good
molasses.
Let it simmer for a minute or two. add
one tablespoonful of vinegar and hot water
enough to maze it tblcK enough lor sauce.
This is excellent for apple pudding and
apple dumplings.
Here are some general recipes:
OEEAM 4akb. ,
Fat two well beaten sggs In a tea eup. fill It
ud with sweet cream, then take one enp of
sugar, one small teaspoonlnl oi soda, two tea.
spoonfuls of cream of tartar; beat well to
geiner, ana navor to lasie.
Bake in a shallow pan.
MOCK MINCE PIE.
One cup ot raisins, one cup of syrnp. one cup
of vinegar, one teaspoonful of alliplcs, one
spoonful of cinnamon, three enns of water.
Boll all together, and when cool add tht Vt
ouua uiauitero ruiieu uae.
This will make three pies.
AFEICOT CREAM.
Stew twelve canned apricots with half a
pound of sugar, strain through a sieve and let
mem cool.
Mix them with half a glass of white wine.
Pass tbe mixture again through the sieve
and add sngar if not sweet enough; pour it into
a mold and heat it bj placing it in a pan filled
with boiling water.
Serve In custard cups.
GOOD COOKIES.
One capful butter, two cupfuls white sugar,
one cupful of sweet milk, one teaspoonful bak
ing powder, two eggs, flour to roll well.
SAGO PUDDING.
Pick and wash through several waters five
tablespoonfuls of sago.
Boll In one quart of milk until quite soft with
a stick of cinnamon.
Then stir in one teacupful of butter and two
of pounded loaf sugar.
When it is cold add six eggs well beaten, and
a little grated nutmeg.
Mix all well together and bake in a buttered
dish about three-quarters of an hour.
SWEDISH JSLLY.
Cover aknncklo of veal with water, add a
small oalon and carrot, and let It boll until the
meat is ready to fall off the bone.
Take the meat and hash it fine and return to
the liquor after it Is strained, and give It an-
other boll until It jellies.
Add salt, pepper, and the juice and rind of a
lemon cut fine; then pour it Into a form and put
In a cold place.
If the knuckle of veal Is Urge, use three
quarts of cold water, if small, two quarts, and
let it boil slowly three or four hours.
ELLICE SEEEifA.
HOT OH Si-EAKEfG TEEMS.
The Austrian Emperor Will Not Hear Yen
Hollke Even In a Phonograph.
KewTork Son.:
The Austrian Emperor, Francis Joseph,
was among the first to ask Mr, Edison's
representative to give him opportunity to
hear the phonograph's powers. Mr. Wange
man was abont to place a cylinder bearing
Von Moltke's voice upon the machine, but
before turning the words of his old conqueror
into the Emperor's ears tbe operator be
thought himself to ask if he would like to
hear them.
A look of bitter memory came into the
Emperor's face, and his reply was a short
"No."
The Yon Moltke cylinder was taken off,
and a roll bearing extracts from one of the
brightest operas was quickly substituted.
Under the influence of, tbe musio the
Austrian ruler soon forgot tbe revived
memory of the German Oeneral's humbling
of his nation.
HOT PBACIICAL HEBE.
The English Idea of Sabailtutlag Bicyclers
for Cavalry Men.
HewTorkWorla.3
The English idea of attaching to each
regiment a bicycle corps has taken a strong
hold upon Thomas Miller, Jr., a member of
the New York Bicycle Club, and as a result
a corps at Flushing, L. L, has been estab
lished. It does not seem possible that any great
amount of success will attend this venture,
as the roads in this country would preclnde
the making of anything like the fast time of
a horse over rough places. The demands
and vicissitudes ot war times lead regiments
into strange places where the bicycle would
be practically useless.
ArTEMPEEOE'S TOYS.
mementoes of the First Emperor William
at the Hohenzoltorn Mneenm.
PH Mall Budget
The accompanying sketch was taken by
our Berlin artist-at the Eohenzollern Mu
seum, from tbe case in which some souvenirs
of the old Emperor William L are pre
served. The two cats are made of plaster,
and represent the royal toys of the
beginning of the present century.
Tbe notebook on the left bears
the inscription, first written in a childish
hand and in pencil, and traded in ink,
"Den 26. Februar eeachenkt bekommen,
bon Fapan gesohenkt bekommen. Konigs
berg, 2T. Februar, 1808. Wilhelm." On
the title page of the old faymnbook the
Emperor has written his name, the date,
22.3.6J, his fcotto, Matthew xxiv. 36, and
the following verse or an old German
hymn:
J)er Herr bricht eln um Mltternacht:
Jetzt 1st nocb Alles still.
Wohl dem der lch sugf ertlff maehl
TJnd lhm begegnen will.
The cup was a wedding present, and for
about 40 years the Emperor drank his morn
ing coffee out of it
Declare Like Pelleaaa.
KewTork World. J
"Confound iti Why, that doctor is a
regular pelican!"
"Pelican? Whatdoyosiajij
. IwksVtttoslMtfHiVUir'. -
,&
'
BRUISES AMD CHAIRS.
Beckers and Darkness Unite to Pro
dace Crops of Sore Shins.
PHOSPHOEESCEKT PAIST A BOON.
How the ladies Hake Mistakes In Selecting
Home Furniture.
TH2 IMPB0YBME5T IK WALL PAPEEB
rwarrrM xon tss nisrxTCH.
WHEN a woman un
dertakes to throw into
'(" her labor her full en
thusiasm she exercises
an influence which is
utterly bewildering.
None but a poetic
woman would make
S?""''' and plum tints three
sizes too large for yon, along with a dress
ing gown two sizes too small. It's only a
charming creature who gets up a tobacco
pouch in cherry and blue, or conceives those
wonderful blotting pads, which no man
would have tbe temerity to use. The con
siderate angels tie a fellow's shaving paper
together in a way that it would be sacrilege
to disturb; they make pocket cases for pins
A CBAZT QUILT
that one never can get a pin out of. They
make pen wipers, with pretty remarks on
them, that a man would be brutal to muti
late, but they do not throw the whole force of
their delightful character into anything as
they do into interior decorations.
To those fair enthusiasts, who are prone to
the purchase of trifles I would say: Avoid
too many chairs in a room. Avoid rockers
that get in the way and raise the temper
and lumps on your shins. Avoid small
tables which are so "cnte" those affairs
that take up so much room and hold a
conple of books or a vase that is in constant
danger of upsetting. A friend of mine with
a wile who insisted upon wicker rockers
with dainty head rests, and small tables
with blue china, and who frequently had to
get up nights for the paregoric, went out
one morning after a night's groping for the
matcbbox,wbich his spouse assured him had
only been filled the day before, but which
was, as usual, empty and as full of barren
ness as the air was full of brimstone went
out, as I said, and brought home a pot of
phosphorescent paint, which he dabbed on
all corners, points and edges of those darling
little rockers and sweet tables, decorating
tbe matchbox, the bedposts, the gasbrackets
and door knobs, determined upon avoiding
the shoals and wreckages of the midnight
cruise. And now, at night, the room looks
like the ghort scene from "The Flying Dutch
man." The phosphorescence gathers light
all day and lets it loose all night; but
there's no more black and bine spots and
the toe romps fearless of the vioious chair
leg.
I show in one of the illustrations a sketch
of what you might' call patch-work glass.
Through the edges of .fragments of colored
glass holes have been bored, and the pieces
strung together in a sort ot fretwork valanee
to go at the top of a window or doorway.
Beads are frequently used for the same pur
poselarge beads strung together crossed
and recroised as a substitue for, expensive
stained glass. It is an excellent idea. All
bead transoms are expensive, and by intro
ducing bits of bamboo, which yon can buy
in lengths, like fish poles, and cut up and
string on with the beads, you can cheapen the
work very muoh. The bamboo lends itself
to this sort of work very nicely, because you
can color it all either white or gold or some
other hue, and thus contribute not only to
inexpensiveness, but to lending a distinctive
character to the work.
I had something in a previous letter to
say about bedsteads to assure you that the
brass did not tarnish; that it did not scratch
any more than wood or as much; that it did
not get rusty, and was not difficult to keep
clean. Last week one of the largest retailers
told me he had sold more brass and metal
bedsteads during tbe last five months than
during the last five years. For hospital
uses they are almost universally used, and
whenever the crib is discarded and Miss
Four Years reaches the dignity of a bed,
mamma now always thinks of either
enamel or brass. For the white and
gold craze, decorators merely touched up
here and there some parts of the brass, hite.
Now when the demand is all lor black and
yellow the Bpanlsh effect they merely
touch up the brass here and there black.
The club men use them, tbe hotels are
putting them in, in conformity with the
English custom and three-quarters of the
fashionable boudoirs have them. The
latest wrinkle is to have the canopy run up
from the side of the bed instead of the head
and to have the draperies of the bed of the
same material as the lace curtain.
"Sets" are now furnishe in all sorts of
lace ourtain goods whether of Notting
ham, Cluny, Tambour, Arabo or other
stuffs. Ton buy the curtains and inside
sash hangings, bed canopy, bureau scarfs,
tidies and bed covers to match. It all gives
a finish to si bedroom that is delightful.
Not one woman in ten, given the privi
lege of selecting the chairs for a home, will
mskea sensible purchase. Did you ever
see a woman get'a seat in a horse car? She
trips in with a bored look on her face, and
almost Invariably stops in the doorway, sets
firmly her lips, hunches her shoulders and
settles herself resignedly against tbe sharp
angle of the entrance. There are three or
four seats up front, but she never sees them.
Shfc gtzes away off with a sort of how-we-poor-women-do-suffer
kind of look and
forthwith some restless male spirit gets up
and offers his seat. Then a faint beam of
gratification appears and' she says, "Don't
rise" but the sacrificing iellow does rise
just the same and promptly strides up front
ana spreads niniseu an over a jaru oiuu
occupied seating. It's the same way in a
house. Watch a man enter a room and nine
times out of ten he'll scan it in a jiffy and
pick out a comfortable chair, if it's there,
but a woman, neverl The first thing at
hand she drops on and there's an end oi it.
A man wants a place to put himself and
plenty of it. Over 300 patents have been
got out upon reclining chairs and yet a
woman everlastingly buys a spindle legged
rocker.
The old-time gimp loops far kiwtaiju j
9 f i
wk' n
Oil
are passe. They are seldom seen any more,
the curtain being caught baek by bows in
stead, or in fact in any graceful way as long
as you avoid the conventional gimp.
Were you never disgusted by the tawdry
display of window shades along the street?
Take your own block for instance. It's a
brick row, and yet at one house are green
shades,, another yellow, the next bine and
I ilj.il i - "-i ' ' " f t"i"1
Jill I n?v'?-ilv
Side Draping for a Med.
so on till the effect of it all is
simply horrible. If all tbe houses
would adopt some one natural tint
that would harmonize with the exteriors,
the appearance would be wonderfully im
proved. As it is. an entire neighborhood is
made to look common by the window shades
at one or two Rouses. One neighbor across
the street, when asked why she had brown
shades at her downstairs windows and terra
cotta upstairs, replied, resentfully, "to har
monize with my turnishings, of course."
OP COLORED GLASS.
"But it makes vonr homo InnV KuH
from the outside; and then the neighbor
hood" But the poor, dear creaturel I don't sup
pose one woman in a hundred no, not one
in 500 is aware that there are such things as
double-faced shades shades that have one
color on one side and another on the re
verse, .take a brown stone row of houses.
What a charming, refined appearance they
nuuiu nave ii an were furnished with
shades showing from the street a natural
holland or cream tint Inside, of course,
nave your reverse colon, anvthinw mn
please red for your red room and blue for
your. -Ah, but," you say. "I never knew
there were such shades." Well, you know
now. The reverse kind shouldn't cost but a
trine more than the common one-color affair.
Last month a dealer up in Union square,
New York, said that in 1837 he made parlor
curtains for one of the old swell residences,
down by Bond street, which became the
talk of those old-fashioned four hundred,
they were so aesthetic Thev were made of
ordinary turkey red and cost about 25 cents
a yard. This was in 1837, remember. "To
day," continued my informant, "I sold a
lot of rose-colored brocade to a descendant
of that same family, and will charge over
$20,000 for just the coverings of her ball
room walls."
We in this country make wall paper very
creditably, but it is only of late years that
the American manufacturers have attempted
anything in the grand and glorious wall
covers that the famous Arthur or Jeffries of
England produce. Abroad, manufacturers
employ artists who charge $300 for a design.
We are gradually making that same class
of goods in this countrv, and one line that I
recently saw was simplv magnificent. None
of your 8 cents a roll paper, but $8,
$10, $15 a roll. The stjles were
all in the French school, little fcnoV
.little ribbons, with dados on the colonial
idea, with hints at oriole windows and
graceful loopings. No more Indian figures
or tile patterns. Everything is Frenoh.
All countries, all products are bowing low
to the Gallic influence, and laurel festoon
and small detached sprays of maidenfern
or rosebuds are sprinkled over a plain, soft
ground, not in reckless profusion, but fully
two feet separated the one from tbe other.
Then there is the other extreme. Tremend
ous tulips, twice the natural size, and hnge
foliage, likewise of heroic dimension.
During the last Tew years a great deal of
attention has been given to bed dressing.
Whst was heretofore a neglected object in a
room is now a thing or beauty as well as
comfort. The bed is provided nowadays
with side draperies. The bed is no longer
thrown together of a morning and tucked in
"at the sides," bnt covered by a proper
drapery and looped up and "hung" and it
must be admitted that the idea very greatly
improves things. C. B. Clippobd.
TEE JTOGE m A HUBBY.
A Cass That Was Rnahed la Order to Get to
a Hnnt.
Youth's Companion.
Jndge Irwin, one of the early Justices in
Wisconsin, was more remarkable for his
hunting adventures than for his legal knowl
edge. The lawyers who argued their cases
before him were often compelled to put over
their work while the Jndge adjourned court
in order to go hunting. The following
charge was given by him to a jury in 1841:
"It appears from the evidence that the
piaintis and defendant in this aation are
brothers-in-law. On the Wabash river, in
the State of Indiana, they associated them
selves together for the purpose of swindling
their neighbors. Not content with that,
they got to swindling each other, and I am
like the woman who saw her lfusband and a
bear fight: 'Fight, husband, fight, bear; I
don't care which beats.'
"And, gentlemen of the jury, it is a
matter of indifference tome how70U bring
In your verdict, only be quick about it."
Five minutes after the jury had retired,
the Sheriff was instructed to see if they had
agreed. A negative answer was returned;
whereupon the jury was immediately
ordered injand discharged, and the Judge
made ready for a-hunt.
OLD NAHUN CHUT A
Symptom or aa Outbreak of Pbpnlar De
mand for It In Louden.
Fall Mall Badget.
Old Nankin china has come into favor
again, Mr. Dickinson,' of Wigmore street,
told me. This is partly owing to Whistler's
introducing the canary-colored walls, to
whom a long-necked blue and white vase
has just been sold. It was a dragon on a
white ground, and he said be couldn't resist
it, though rather expensive.
"Here's half a dozen plates that are geing
to Mrs. Humphry'Ward," said the dealer.
"They've got the hawthorn snrav" a valu
able design in Nankin china. These will
make up Mrs. Ward's set There are vases
from 18d to mere than 1,809s. The prices
ssfediafaLitni startling to these igseraat
IN COUNTRY HOUSES.
Bow England's Rich and Koble Folk
Spend Part of the Summer.
AS MUCH FORM. AS IN GAY LOHDOff.
Costumes for Eoalinj on the Thames and
for Tennis Playing.
EXAMPLE OP THE PBIHCE OP WALES
tCOBZXSFOXSXXCX OT THE DISPATCHI
London, August 9. Country house
visiting is an immense institution in En
gland, and exists to the same extent no
where else, although our elegant French
cousins, in their present mania for every
thing British, are trying hard to introduce
it into their stiff chateaux. Things have
changed very much since old-fashioned
days, when people paid visits of a month's
duration, and when the height of ambition
of every outsider was to be received into
county society, the members of which en
tertained one another with due solemnity.
Even county society in these democratic
days is less exclusive, and consequently
more lively than it used to- be. As for
length, few visits, except in out-of-the-way
shooting boxes up in the highlands, last
over a week, and frequently large parties
are made up for only a three days' stay.
This is especially the ease if the object of
the meeting is some race meeting or county
ball, while in professional circle., for peo
ple whose country place! are within easy
reach oi London, Saturday to Monday visits
have become a recognized institution all
through the summer.
SIGNS 01 A GOOD TIME.
For visiting to be really enjoyable, one's
host should be rich and able to provide his
guests with all the luxuries of modern life.
A friend of mine, who in vulgar language
knew "what was what," used to -say that
she always judged prophetically on the oc
casion of a first visit as.'to how she would be
treated, by the way she was to be met at the
station; and that if a smart carriage and
pair with a footman were in attendance, she
felt a pleasing certainty that the creature
comforts would be well p'rovided for.
There is nothing in .the world more com
fortable than a well-managed English country-house,
where one's every wish is antici
pated, and where everything from the
French cooking downward, seems to act by
machinery. But the machinery in this case
is usually to be found in the brain of the
hostess, for it requires no little tact and fore
thought to keep a large party amused and
provided for. The main point abont En
glish country-house life is the immense
amount of freedom that reigns there. A
model host and hostess suggest alternative
amusements, and leave it to their guesU to
choose which they prefer.
THE FASHIONABLE MEALS.
Breakfast is usually a conveniently mova
ble feast somewhere between 9 and 10:30
o'clock, and dinner alone is the one cere
monious event of tbe day when everyone is
bound to be present and punctual. But
dinner nowadays never takes place till 8
o'clock at night, and otten in imitation of
Her Majesty not till 9 o'cloct. What with
boating and tennis in the summer, shooting,
riding and hunting in the autumn and
winter, with billiards on wet days and im
promptu dancing and music after dinner, it
is not very difficult to while away the days
pleasantly.
Perhaps the most popular of all summer
visiting is staying on the river the "river"
to the Londoner invariably meaning the
Thames. Anyone lucky enough to possess
a place on one of the beautiful river reaches
near Henley or Wargrave is regarded as a
public benefactor. Even for a medium
sized house on the Thames the sum of 30 or
40 guineas a week is .frequently paid. En
tertaining, too, is so easy under the circum
stances; when your hostess has provided a
variety of boats and punts, an abundance of
soft cushions and a well-stocked luncheon
and tea-basket, happiness is within the
reaoh of everybody.
BELLES ON THE TVATEB.
After all there is nothing more perfect on
earth than paddling a canoe with a con
genial companion on a drowsy June day up
one of the many lovely backwaters of dear
old "Father Thames." English girls take
to boating as thoroughly as to tennis, and
hundreds of graceinl, active figures, clad in
the regular town sailor bat, stiff linen shirt
and man's 'tie, and blue or white serge
skirt, may be seen any snmmer day rowing,
paddling and punting with as much ease
and success as their Eton and Oxford-bred
brothers. And then, what endless oppor
tunities for flirtation and love making under
the willow trees on the shady river banks!
A regnlar Scotch shooting box is by no
means such a paradise for tbe female sex.
Indeed, unless ladies take to shooting them
selves like the Comtesse de Paris, Lady
Florence -Dixie and a few other kindred
spirits, they generally complain. The men
are out shooting six days in the rivers, and
hcome home in tbe evening so tired and ex
hausted that as olten as not they fall asleep
in the drawing room after dinner. The only
standing form of entertainment is to meet
the shooters on the moors with their midday
luncheon; but the pleasure of sitting out on
a damp hillside, in order to eat cold beef, is
small indeed.
QOWSB FOB COUNTRY HOUSES.
This same great question of gowns forms,
of course, an immense consideration in pay
ing visits. Indeed, to some feminine minds
one of the main pleasures consists in wear
ing one's best frocks every day. There is
practically no limit to tbe number of dresses
required, for everyone dresses three or four
times a day, just the same as in London.
Except in the hot summer months, when
cotton frocks are necessarr, smart tailor
made gowns with an infinite variety ot
knowing ties and waistcoats are the usual
country wear; but you must have besides,
according to circumstances, boating and
tennis dresses, riding habits, elegant tea
gowns to slip on for 5 o'clock tea after a wet
and muddy tramp, and, of coarse, dinner
and ball gowns ad infinitum.
The Princess of Wales and her daughters
set a very good example of sensible dressing
and healthy outdoor amusements. At
Sandringhan" the old traditions of 'country
house life are thoroughly kept up, and a
great deal oi picnicking, riding and driving
of ponv carts is indulged in by all the young
people. One oi the Princess of Wales' pet
institutions is a lovely model dairy with a
teahouse attached. The Prince himself is
of course a thorough sportsman and visits
about a good deal in tbe autumn for shoot
ing purposes. On these occasions he invar
iably makes up the whole house party, and
it is said that the owner of these earelully
preserved covers is frequently not even in
vited to join the royal shooting party the
honor of entertaining H. B. H. being con
sidered quite sufficient reward for, all the
trouble and expense. MACLEOD.
SHE 13 PICTURESQUE.
Something About the .Toilet of Mrs. Oscar
Wilde That Z.adlea Worihlp.
Mrs. Oscar Wilde has the reputation of
being the most pictnresque woman in Lon
don, says the New York World. A conple
of years ago she adopted the Liberty silk
gown, and fashion went mad and miles to see
htr. Now she wears black and white, black
and gold, and black and cress green, andtba
cut of her gowns is quite as remarkable as
tbe seamless clinging robe designed by
Burne-Jones ten years ago. The gold or
yellow frocks, toned down with black feath-,
era, gauze r lace, are reserved for landscape
effects, the black and green for daylight in
teriors, and the white and black for gas
light.
This evening dress is all of black bengal
ine, made Greek fashion, with Grecian em
broidery of gold, and worn with white shoes
and a white boa. Her bouquet is always
the same tieph&notis smothered In fata,
leave.
-J
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