m 1 20 IN FAIET FABRICS DRAPED. XVWowr Beauty Una n Great Variety of Novel nnd Striking Materials to Dis play Upon the Evening Occasions at tbe Seaside or In tbe ftlonntntniu fWHITTEN FOB Till DISIMTCH. i THE gospel of drcssi now being preached throughout this coun- D try by Sir Edward "(ftftv r ltussell and his gifted wife, in connection with their Delsartian lectures, is to the effect that the large, stately woman may wear, as most suitable to her style, the stiff forms of old brocade and rich v Xi-JS- :. velvet, sucn material V&Jw k W 1 u ft B as will fall in heavy lines; and that this woman may indulge in strong color con trasts; but that it is a sin against self for the light, willowy woman of delicate color ing, vitality and energy of movement to so clothe herself. "Dress is our back ground, our setting; it should harmonize, blend. "We should seek to ennoble and' de fine onr personality by true and proper ex pression, thereby hastening the day when woman's dress will be more than the weight record of a pnrse." Surely such reasonable doctrine will at once commend itself to everv thinking per son; and with so much being said and written np on the science of dress we cannot well decline to do a little thinking for our selves if we would "keep up with the pro cession." But as for the "Airy-fairy Lil lian," who must forego the elegance of bro cade and it should be added, heavy trim mings and expensive jewels what has the j-resent fruitiul season provided lor her adornment? The time for summer exodus to tbe sea or mountain resort is nearat hand. and the matter ot ball dress or dress for other evening occasion is the consideration of the hour. DELIGHTS TOR FEMININE HEABTS. For such wear the market affords the very choicest combinations of nre beauties in lustrous silks, sheer and sheen as the butter fly's wing; soft, clinging woolens such as Felix delights to drape; and mountains of gauzy fabrics in cloudland colors that re Bojve themselves into deceptive landscapes, waving branches, and far-off hills and hollows. Nothing could be more true to nature than heaped-up tnlle or deftly-arranged crepe behind glowing flowers, the hue and shape of which these transparent, cloud-like tabrics show off with uch naturalness. Alone; this line we find exquisite skirtings in moussehne de soie embroidered in harmonizing tints, or pretty contrasting colors, usually with a 'plentiful admixture of tinsel. One charming skirt of this sort has a hemstitched hem, with border of tinsel bas kets filled to overflowing with vari-colored flowers and their accompanvingfolia.ee; the ground of this particular piece is white, and is dotted with butonniers in the colon rep resented in the border. Another in white ground has twigs in all the lovely brown shades and with gold tinsel lying naturally about over the fabric, the border design being brought out by larger and interlacing twigs. This border is finished in silk em broidered points intended to be cut out. A VERT NOVEL EFrECT. Some of the most novel effects are notice Able in these mousseline de soires, for in stance, a skirt in mouse green with pointed foot-band in pink, half yard deep, the piuk points extending far up over the green ground. 3 his same idea is executed in all color combinations; such as heliotrope with delicate gray; white with tan; black with white, etc, e'tc This material is-also thown in plain colors, satin strined. Dealers take pains to tell us that black is taking the lead for vouug or old. Not withstanding the difference of opinion in regard to its being a becoming hue for any or all, certain it is the designers have done their utmost to make it "taking," and have relieved the sombreness by every imaginable trick of decoration. Some of the most effective have deep borders of flowers iu nature's own colors; others have gold or silver dots, stars or other small designs scattered over the dusky ground, and such patterns have deep vandyked borders or foot-band of the tinsel. In the selection of black and gold in all of these j designs the brunette boddess or JNighthas no costume advantage of the blonde God dess of Morning, who would select the same effect in white and stiver. It should go without telling these conceits are now more appropriate for fancy dress balls than for receptions. NETS THAT ARE OFFERED. Fashiondom has forwarded another and larger supply of nets lor this season's ser vice. The sewing silk net in large meshes comes in widths sufficient for skirt length, and continues to be ran with ribbon for a finish. Brussels net is in very fine meshes, with large or small designs in dots or flowers, rnechlin patterns. These nets are suitable fpr day or evening wear, with the stipula tion that low linings be reserved for evening wear exclusively; and when there is scrag giness oi form it would be a kindness to ob servers if the lining were never lowered. In place of the matchless flesh tints of natnre substitute any color most suitable to your style and complexion. Any one ot the yel low shades, from canary to mandarine, seem popular with both blonde and brunette. Let your net sleeves be large and with high shoulder effect. Point d' esprit nettingin striped patterns, and Brussels striped net continue in favor. Xa Tosca net has vandyked foot band, and large cresents embroidered apparently at random over the net, These designs are in solid tinsel effect or as upon other fabrics de scribed, in colors with an introduction of tinsel. THE USE OF FLOWERS. Flowers should be the only decorations for these gauzy materials; and Lillian must leave all costly and elaborate jewels for "ma mew" to wear with her elegant brocade and velvet. "Flowers are youth's jewels;" but there is no reason why a matron may not in dulge a refined taste in a few flowers, but let her loot well to their disposition, especially if she has been too abundantly favored in fieih and blood charms. The over-done cor--sae bouquet, which made a woman look fold 1 or unbroken like a soldier's grave on the 30th of May., is now a thing obselete, and in its place is a trailin" arrangement of flowers following the outlines of the figure in accordance with the teaching that beauty and grace lie in curved lines. Skirt decorations will be after this arrangement instead of the stilt bunches used in the past. "We all love flowers, at least most women do; but there is a chance, by reason of this love, of being carried beyond simplicity s boundary line bv a too liberal use of them. Let us love them, cling to them, combining them with. a due regard for Dame Mature s own excellent arrangement than which art .. nevpr lP mOK beautiful. MEG. MRS. LANGTRY ON DRESS. She. Fervently Hopes Iho Bastle Has Gooo to Slny Like Attracts Like In Drr ns Id Love, so Blondes May Dask ImSwi Color. For my own part, writes Lillian Langtry, the only underclothing I wear is of pink batiste, a much lighter material than flan nel. It is very foolish for women who pass the greater part of their time in nouses, theaters, churches, stores and cars heated to summer heat to go swathed like mummies in red or white flannel. Of what benefit when they have occasion to go out in tbe cold is this heavy underclothing, to which thev have accustomed themselves in their warm homes? I keep myself warm when out of doors in cold weather by wearing heavy outer wraps, and I change from heavy to lighter ones or vice versa as the temperature changes. Next to underclothing comes stays. They should be as simple as possible. Most peo ple cling more or less closely to the fashions and customs of their youth, and the stays I wear now are precisely the same in every respect as the first pair I ever donned all in one piece and laced up the back, with stocking supporters at the side. It is but natural, since I have never worn any other, that I should think this style the best. It goes without saying that they should never be worn tight NOT A BUSTLE PARTISAN. Thank heaven, the bnstle has departed. I hoped it had gone forever, but I believe there is now being made to revive it, an effort which I trust will prove futile. . I never wore one in all my life, and never iu tend to do so. The bus'tle is objectionable upon every ground. It is injurious to health by reason of both the weight and heat which it imposes upon the hips, and it is an ugly excrescence. There are several much more cracelul. healthlul and com fortable ways in which the "bustle effect" may be secured, when nature has uot sup plied it sufficiently, than by means of the hay bag, the swinging case, the rubber cushion, or even the daily newspaper, which comprise the outtle methods most generally emnloyed. One way is to wear stiffly starched white skirts flounced up the back. Another way and a better, because it avoids the noise of a starched skirt, which to me is offensive is to insert two or threo reeds to make thegown stand out and keep it from resting on the heels. SKIRTS FROM THE WAIST. "We hear a great deal abont the evil, of women carrying all the weightof theirskirts lrom the waist by having them tightly fastened around it." No doubt many women have suffered severely from this practice, which is not only wholly unnecessary, even with the present'style ot dress, but is posi tively disfiguring, as the thickness ot the skirts about tbe waist tends to increase its size, and thus to produce the very effect which so many women try to avoid by tight lacing. My skirts do not come "Up to my waist at all! They button on to the lower edge of my corset,thus bringing tbeir weight upon my shoulders. I am glad to see that of late years there has been a marked revolution in the popu lar ideas with regard to the proper combi nations of colors and as to what colors and shades are and are not becoming to persons of various complexions. Thus, for years it was thought that yellow of any shade was peculiarly tbe color for brunettes and that blondes should never wear it. This has now been shown to be a great mistake. A woman of the deadest white skin, with light blue eyes and pale blonde hair, be comes a poem when she dons a yellow gown. A yellow frock and a yellow Jan have been known to transform a" rather plain blonde into a vision of almost perfect loveliness. How could it fail to be so? LIKE ATTRACTS LIKE. All the tints of blonde beauty are fair and sunny. Why, then, should it not follow that they are set off to the best advantage and brought into most admirable prominence by similar tints? To my mind like has as much attraction for like in the lawof beauty as in that of love, for I am not one of those who believe in the doctrine that people are attracted by their opposites. But it must not be supposed that precisely the same shade of yellow will suit every blonde. It used to bethought that light blue was the eolor par excellence for blondes. Now it is the brunette, with her own rich warmth of color, who may becomingly wear even that shade of blue so long considered sacred to babies. Rose and scarlet may be worn alike by blondes and brunettes, bat the lighter shades of the former should be selected by the blonde and its deeper tints by the brunettes. Scarlet is more becoming to the blonde, because she has greater need of its power to impart its own tinge to her lips and cheeks. FTJN AT ATLANTIC CUY. The Tonne Belles Are Runnlne Foot Races. Leoplne and Jumping. Atlantic City Special. "Now, girls, readyl" "All together; let her go." Fancy, then, four bright-faced, handsome figured young women, with their hair flying in the wind, rush wildly up the hard beach in one of tbe usual afternoon diversions of the W. Q. A. C. Half a dozen other girls cheered them on, and waved bats and band kerchiefs to.encoura'ge the leader onspur up a lagging favorite. It was a foot race, lar ud the island on a lonesomeVretch of land, where tbe enthusiastic devotees of feminine muscularity were not likely to have their games retarded by the gize of a throng. Three or lonr men, who bad been saunter ing along the boardwalk, stopped in de lighted wonder to take in tbe display, and a youthful native, who had apparently dis covered tbe attraction some days ago, sat cross-legged on a boardwalk post and mat tered an admiring "By gosh" at intervals. The spectators were fo few that the girls did not mind them, and, perhaps, were rather pleased than otherwise that their prowess was not to go Nrbolly nnadmired. The race was won.by a broad-shouldered, round-faced bit of a girl, who probably, would have been as fat as a dumpling if she did not keep her flesh down by constant exercise. Three of her backers threw their arms around her and took turns in smother ing her with kisses for her success, while the rest went over to console a girl who had her mind so bent on winning the race that she was ready to burst into tears because she lost it. After that there were more foot races, and a contest at leaping and jumping. Then the girls scampered to the hotel to driss for tea. WHAT GBAKDMA "WOKE. Soon Oar Sweethearts and Wires Will Look Like the Old Portraits. History repeats itself in more ways than one. Just now the old Baying is proving true as regards fashions, and garments that our grandmothers wore are soon to be seen on our sweethearts and wives. The lantastic variety of sleeves to be found in old portraits is particularly useful to the modern designer, and the deep, pointed lace cuffs, as shown in the cut, prom ise to be a pretty addition to the summer gown. The mostgrace tnl sleeve is a tongue -shaped outer sleeve of crimson lined with white and worn by an old time princess roval over a Cuffs from the portratt'of tight sleeve of Lucy, Countess of Bedford, laceorfine mus lin. The gown consists of a black satin petti coat embroidered with gold, a white bodice brocaded with various colors, and over this tbe crimson robe embroidered in metallic designs and cut out in trefoil scallops on all its edges. This costume in subdned tones might be more genteel, peihaps. but there is an Oriental richness about its coloring that on occasions might be desirable. STANLEY AND THE SAVAGES. A Story Illnstrniliig the Explorer's Hcndl ncss of Resource. New York Sun. Herbert Ward tells a story Illustrating Stanley's readiness of resource in dealing 'with a crafty savage trying to overreach him. "When the explorer reached Stanley Pool on his last expedition the big Bateke Chief Ngalyema, who figured conspicuously in Stinley's book on the Congo State, came to him demanding a big present on the ground that some of his carriers had taken bananas frpm his plantation. Stanley had good reason to believe the wily ivory trader was lying, and he did not propose to fall into his trap. Almost any one else would have told the Chief he was a prevari cator, and there would have been an angry discussion and bad feeling on all sides; but that was not Stanley's way. He at once summoned all bis men into line, and walked up and down in front of it with the Chief, asking him to pick out the culprits. Ngal yema said he could not do it. "Now look here, Ngalyema," said Stan ley, "how can I pay you for stolen bananas unless you give me proot that my men have stolen them; and how can I punish thieves unless I know who they are? "Wait a minute." Stanley withdrew into his tent and pres ently emerged with a piece of chalk. "See here, Ngalyema," he said, "this little thing in my hand makes a white mark on the black skin. Take it The next time you catch my men stealing your bananas you mark the thieves on the back with this piece of chalk. Then I will know who the thieves are, and can punish them, and I will pay you for the bananas they have stolen." The chief was not quite empty handed when he went away, for he had the chalk. VEGETABLES ON THE FACE. They Slay Benutlfr bat Ono 3Intn'C Smile When Sbe Has Tlicm On. In Paris the professional beautifier, writes Miss Mantilini, has three degrees of "beautifying" a face, which means that she lays on the preparations in fine different thicknesses. I thought I would try it my self. It was quickly done. First the face is sponged with hot water and dried. Then something out of a bottle was carefully ap plied and allowed to dry, and over this a layer of another mixture was rubbed on. This gives a smooth and white appearance to the skin. The cheeks were artistically rouged, the eyebrows penciled and a dark line made under the eyesand the artist de clared enthusiastically that "I was a beauti ful make-up." , I had my forehead enameled, too, just for an experiment. A sort of whiting in solu tion is applied till a sufficient thickness has dried on the skin, and that is enameling. It looks ghastly in the daylight, The maker up admitted this, and said that another drawback to enameling was that the wearer mustn't laugh or it would crack. "Indeed," she laid, "ladies of fashion don't smile much, for laughter is destructive to certain sorts of make-up; enameling is only for even ing It's too plain for sunlight." Sbe assured me that all she had used was purely vegetable, but one doesn't always care for a vegetable plaster. Vegetables are nice at diuner; beet root is better in a salad than on one's face in the shape of rouge. PASTETJB AND THE BABBITS. Tbe Australian CoIonHis Wouldn't Give His Inocnlntloa Remedy a Trial. Chambers' Journal. It will be remembered that many months ago M. Pasteur proposed to deal with the rabbit pest in Australia by inoculating a lew of the animals with disease virus, and turning these few among their fellows, so that they could infect the rest bv their presence. M. Pasteur sent his nephew and another of his assistants to Australia with a view to repeat upon a larger scale the ex periments which he had already carried out with success in his laboratory. These gentle men returned to France a few months later much discouraged with their experience. They allege that they were only allowed to try a few'experiments, aud although the results were of a promising nature, alf kinds of impediments were placed in their way. It mar be that the prize ot 20,000 -v. hich was offered by the Australian Government lor the discovery of a successful remedy for the extirpation of the rabbits had something to do with this treatment of a ioreigner's representatives. Record of Ibe Flyers. At the close of 1888 there were 12 trotters that had acquired, records of 2:11 or better. At tbe close of 1890 there were 17 that had shown that phenomenal speed, and two stal lions beside the 3-year-old wonder had beaten the record of Maxie Cobb. TBDeT PJTTSBTJRGft DISPATCH SUNDAY, FAIR WOMAN'S WAR Against Dirt and Cast and (Jobwehs and Insects Generally. ITS A SfEING TIME CALAMITY, And Up to Date No Way of Patching Up a Peace Had Been Found. A SZSTEM OP SUBSTITUTES POSSIBLE fWBlTTEN FOB TlUt DISPATCH, "l The time has come around again for women to enjoy what a masculine critic calls their "Spring Festival." To be sure there is no enjoyment about it, but many men tell us there is, and what they say, as to women, must or should be true, since they have assumed since the world began to know all about women better than do the sisters themselves. It is useless for house keepers to say that they would prefer to go to Atlantic City, or Fortress Monroe and hear the band play, and the waves roar, and find the honse all swept and garnished and cleaned when they return, because the be loved brethren are so rooted and grounded in the belief that women revel in a torn up house, with everything in a muss, that noth ing said to the contrary will mace them "disbandon" the idea. A man writing upon this momentous sub ject says that if houses were kept as they should be there would be no need lor clean ing them in the spring time-r-or any other time, but he might as well tell the merchant that if his store was kept as it should be there would be no need of stock taking once a year, or a general review of the establish ment every quarter. ' Good housekeepers who understand their business thoroughly know there must be a system of clearing out aud renovating, as well as the merchant knows that he must get rid of his old stock and make the new appear attractive by re arrangement and a new display of fresh ness. THINGS THAT MUST BE DONE. Carpets will wear out and require chang ing around, and alteration aud removal; curtains need to be done up and dusted and cleaned; closets must be cleaned and in spected; all the corners must be shown up that not a cobweb remains, or a moth, has the remotest chance for existence; linen rooms must be looked over, renovation and renewal follow and, in short, the whole bouse from attic to foundation stone must be gone over with an eye to having every thing in proper trim, and to insuring a full knowledge of tbe situation. With all ot this, in addition to the regular work, it will be readily understood what a "picnic" it is for the responsible housekeeper, especially when she has her hands full all the time, and has no "surplus" to draw upon for extra help. The annoyances that crop up on these oc casions are without number. Company will drop in when things are at the very worst. the good old gossips will take time to tell the stories that talking people are everlast ingly engaged in retailing, the paper hanger will come one day and stay away for two or more, leaving his work unfinished, the gas will be short when it should be long, the water works man will turn off the water without a breath of notice, just at the most critical moment, household treasures will be irremediably ruined by careless bands, and trouble after trouble, worry after worry, aggravation after aggravation will follow in quick succession until nerves are shattered, patience is exhausted and women feel fully assured that housekeeping is a system of martyrdom, and that, as Talmage says, "The health-shattered womanhood of Amer ica cries out for a God who can help ordi nary women in the ordinary duties of house keeping." i THE LORDS OP CREATION. These troubles in the household seem small and trifling to the men who look on woman's work as of little value. But when they consider that a mother and a house keeper gets no day of rest not even the Sabbath that her nights are disturbed by the care of children; that the continual daily grind must go on whether appreciated or not, it will not be so surprising that so many wrecks are to be found at the fireside and so many eo down in the struggle, and that "the earth 13 strewn with the martyrs of the kitchen and nursery." It is a comfort to know there's a good time coming that women are now begin ning to use their reason and common sense, and are giving their minds to solve their own household problems. When they have reached the conclusion that martyrdom in the kitchen and nursery does not pay they will cease to be "wrecks strewn upon the shores of time," but will set their wits to work so as to manage their affairs in a very different fashion. It is all very well to be assured by the reverend brethren that the Lord will not forget them, and that He will help them to get the meals and prepare the wardrobe for the family, atd dispense hospitality no matter under what circumstances, but the fact is that people will have their doubts, and housekeepers do not find that prayer puts a meal upon tbe table, or lessens the pile in the mending basket, or makes a joyous May festival out of the spring house- cleaning. POETRV "WITHOUT SUBSTANCE. It is quite poetical to tell the weary mothers to "Go where the streams leap down off the rocks and their crystal heels clatter on the white pebbles to hark to the fleetinir ot the winds and the long meter psalm of the thunder to look at the morning coming down the mountains, and the evening draw ing aside the curtain from heaven's wall of jasper, amethyst, sardonyx, and chalcedony, to look on all these and be happy." But alas, they have something else to do, as it happens. Instead of looking at the morning coming down the mountains they have to fire up, and, may be, get breakfast with a OaDyo.n one arm. Instead of looking out upon the night so fair and sweet, they have perforce to contemplate the stock ing bag, and perhaps torn jackets aud rent trousers. .Nobody knows the trials of the ordinary woman "without help," but she who has been there. Tbe worst folly that a woman can commit, however, in her wilderness of work is to worry over it, to grow wrinkled and sallow and cross, to lose nerve and temper, and fret herself to fiddle strings. Suppose the Lord does not forget her, as Brother Talmage as sures us, this knowledge does not make her work less burdensome. What she needs to do is to survey the ground, study up improved waysof doing things,short cuts, rapid transits, labor-saving devices, simplifying sewing, finding time to read up the best ways for managing children. The old order changeth why not the housekeeping? Find out what there is in co-operation by experi ments even on a small scale. No woman need make 17 pies just because her hus band's mother did no harm will happen it no pies at all are made. EIGHT HOURS A BAT. The good time for women will never come unless they themselves tarn in and work it out. If eight hours work a day is enough for men, it is enough for women, and they are equally justified in dropping the brush or the broom at the same time if they choose. Girls are too prone to think that when they get a husband, and a home of their own to have and to bold, that their trials are over they are landed and settled, they have achieved success as success is reckoned for women, but tbey have really just begun theserious business of life, the hardest part is to come, unless they have more luck and prosperity than have the common lot. Their hitherto devoted lover becomes in mny cases a most prosaic husbaud. They may make sure that while leaden bread, and sloppy custards, i-nd burned puddings may be jokes just at first, if repeated too oiten, they ruffle the most placid of tempers. During the sweet en chantment of the honeymoon even failings are angelic, but when time wears away the fond illusions, things bare to be right up to par to be satisfactory. A recent housekeeping work decrees that every chair must have a square, oval, round or crescent saddle bag embroidered and tied with ribbon's, but life is too short to make saddle bags or tidies for every chair. It would be better to go out and look at the evening, or the morning, or the mountains or the streams, as Talmage advises, and let the bags and tidies go to the dickens. TWO HEROIC WOMEN. But how to get the spring festival over comfortably or revel happily in the alleged joys of house cleaning is to the point at present. There is a glint of light breaking amid the clouds of dark days a whisper of advancing relief a hint of the good times coming. The following notice was posted in a Woman's Exchange: "A competent housekeeper desires to take charge of house cleaning. She will take up carpets, cleanse and repair them, clean therooms thoroughly, do np lace curtains, hang draperies and pat the rooms in nerfect neatness." The orders this advertiser received, it is related, were attended to with scrupulous fidelity, and, with thorough supervision by herself, and five good assistants, she has built up a pay ing business. This woman has struck a long felt want, and if she does not fall into the shiftless, exasperating ways of men, when employed to do household jobs, she will be a treasure indeed. Another woman who in England was in structed in carpentry at an industrial school and was skilled in the use of a kit of tools, has found steady employment in doing odd jobs about houses that men are always going to do. but never find time for. She mends bedsteads, chairs, tables, cures warped doors, makes depraved bureau drawers work properly, puts in casters, oils hinges, puts up blinds to work smoothly, sets aud files locks, does all the little repair ings and glueing, and mendings that are done so deltly by a practiced hand with the proper tools, but are so clumsily managed by one who is inexperienced. One of her employers says ' She is so handy, she is worth a dozen men and she never leaves any dirt." She gets ?2 CO a day with lunch and dinner, and who would not be glad to give it to have all the little jobs done up so beautifully? A OREAT MELD FOR WOMEN. This is another avenue open to the women who do thorough work and unless it is thorough it will prove a failure. This dis position on tbe part of women to strike out in new lines, and do their work well, is one of the features of the age, and will in time bring about a vast reform in the way of com fort in the household. As they obtain con fidence in their powers they will take up larger enterprises and reap greater profits. The day does not seem distant when capable women supervisors will be in charge of a brigade of first-class hands, who will make short work of this spring terror of house cleaning. Men alone are not competent; they have not the quick eye for cobwebs, the holy horror of moths and ants and other enemies, tbe capacity for details, tbe plesure of bringing order out of chaos, of making a house spick and span, and pure and beautiful. They have not the taste lor neatness possessed by women. Their houses of business show it The windows go un washed for months, the pavements are coated with mud, the gutters may be full of old papers aud trash, and yet it does not occur to them how much nicer they would loos;, nor how much sweeter would be their surroundings, if they would "clean up." In one of our walks abroad we saw men stand ing idly at shop doors, gazing at the passers by, while the sidewalks were covered with slimy mud, where tbe sweepings had filled the gutters, and yet they stood gaping, ap parently unconscious of the disgusting ap pearance things presented on a bright spring day. It never seemed to occur to them that the windows were filthy, although water was plenty. PANTALOONS VERSUS SKIRTS. Men could do a great deal of the house work in the world more easily than women, because their dress is suited for it. The skirts of the women nre always a bar for free movement. To climb a step ladder to hang a curtain, one hand is always for tho skirts to go up stairs skirts must be clutched which leaves only one hand free. Men can skip up and down without trammel. They are also" better adopted for heavy work of moving carpets, heavy furniture, and such work as requires strength. With capable women to "boss" them they could be drilled into first-class hands at the busi ness. With thousands of men landing in New York daily, with the hordes of idle s that are always standing at the street corners, it would seem as if their musr-le might be utilized in the heavy department of housework it they could be tanght to do it properly and thoroughly. Mothers are much to blame for not train ing their sons to habits of helpfulness at home, which would make them better men and more useful members of society.. It cer tainly cannot be considered the fair thing for mothers nnd wives to eo out to wash or clean house by the day, and then go home and cook supper for husbands and sons who have stood on the streets for hours with their hands in their pockets. We have in our mind's eye now a mother over 60 years of age who washes to support the family, while an able-bodied son loats, and a husband who has not done a stroke of work for two years, while his wife earns tbe living and keeps the house and helps the son. These men, and such others,may claim they cannot get work, but it is not true. If nothing else tbey could do the housework, but no, not a hand's turn will they do at what they contemptuously look upon as woman's work. A FURTHER STEP IN ADVANCE. That some relief may be expected from the alleged joys and revels of house cleaning becomes plainer when a Boston newspaper advertises u "House Cleaning Company" who will undertake the job with trained and reliable help in all branches at a saving for housekeepers of time and money. Ii this can be done thoroughly and well without tearing the curtains to pieces and wrecking the furniture and doing tbe damage that is now so common, it would bring about a sec tion of the long-hoped-for millenium. Another new notion that is being preached" unto women on this subject is that the mo notony of housework the daily round of washing, ironing, baking and cooking are a real hindrance to good health, and are not the exercise that tends to the best physical de velopment. Where these aredaily duties their ill enect should be warded oft by a variety of movements that would counteract tbeir tendency to narrow the chest, to curve the shoulders, to ruin the digestion. That there is much truth in this, every thonghtlul woman will admit. But the same is true of the toilsome occupations of men. Then comes tbe question how the ill effects of such labor are to be lessened. The men are moving for their own ad vantage physically and mentally bv a de mand lor a day's work of eight hours, thus leaving more time for recreation and exer cise that will, broaden their chests and counteract the ill effects of monotonous toil which usually develops some part of the body at the expense of the other. But what are the women going to do about this cut ting down the hours of labor? Bessie Bramble. GETTING BID OF MOSQUITOES. A Philanthropic Genius sneecsis That Tbey Be Executed by Electricity. New York Sun. 1 A correspondent noting that the dragon fly scheme of destroying mosquitoes isn't a success, suggests electricity. He pro poses by hanging enormous clusters of electric lights beyond the outskirjj of tbe city to lure thereto the whole of the neigh boring insect population. To the ingenuity of this gentleman is allied a commendable, if somewhat sanguine, commercial instinot, for he adds: "Arrangements might be made for collecting these after they had commit ted suicide, as they all do, by flying at the lamps, and it is probable that they could be sold as fertilizers lor a sum large enough to pay the cost of maintaining the lights." He states that when the arc lamos were first introduced into New Orleans the entire iusect population ot tbe neighboring swamps flocked to the citr. The region beyond the radius of the lamps was clear" of the nocturnal tormentors, while tbe sidewalks and roads around each light were strewn every morning with dead and dying. , f , v,,v '-f"-"J?V?m'I;!.viT . 7 ' .r' . T BJWT MAT 4. 1890. . T , , ' '- CLARA. BELLE'S CHAT. A Vote of Thanks to a Beauty Who Took Off Her Hat at the Play. A CRAZE FOR CARMENCITA. Trials of Mabel Jenness and the Waj She Took to Overcome Them. A TITLED FEENCflHAN'S FLOKAL FAD rconnEsroKDKSCE or the DisrATcn.i New York, May 3. TATELY and hand some example of the frell-bred young lady attended a theatrical first night last week and occupied with her escort seats in tbe third row of the or chestra. She was so fair to look upon that a large share of the audience watched her as she went down the &S&- aisle and settled gracefully in her chair. It was then observed with much interest that she raised her arms and detached from her head the fashionable hat that become her so well. Her hair was bright golden, and under the radiant lights it fairly flashed in its beauty. The old gentleman silting be hind her settled back comfortably in his chair, and congratulated himself that he had been placed behind such a thoughtful creature, for now could he not only see the stage but a splendid head of hair as well. Presently two or three young women in the immediate vicinity quietly removed their hats, having noted the admiration A Vote of Thankt. that the originator of the scheme had ex cited. From this tbe movement spread until hatless feminine heads were discover able all over the theater, even to the rear rows of the circle. GAVE HER A VOTE OF THANKS. Between tbe acts a paper began to circu late abont among the people occupying the orchestra. Each gentleman, as he received it, read something that had been written on it, and then smilingly signed his name, alter which he passed it to bis immediate neighbor. In a few moments the paper came back to tbe old gentleman that had started it on its travels. Bending forward he politely addressed the golden-haired girl, handing to her, at the same time, the paper. She read it, and, as she did so, a deep blush aod a smile crept over her face. The paper was a vote of thanks signed by 30 or more of the male spectators. Its text was as follows: "We, the undersigned, desire to express our respectful admiration for a most beauti ful and considerate young lady, name not known, who, by removing ner hat from her bright golden head, has set the fashion for others, thereby rendering it possible for a delighted audience to witness the details of a stage performance. Tbe pretty girl cast a radiant smile over her shonlderat the old gentleman behind and, folding the paper, tucked it into the front of her dress by the side of a bunch of pansies. And everybody was happy. A BEAUTIFUL ILLUSION. Young Love's Rude Awakening. Beauty is a source of nonsense and hum bug as well as admiration. For instance, there is Mabel Jenness. Nature made her handsome, and now, taking advantage of that fact, she is telling other women that they may look as well as she does. Of course she takes pains to get good pay for her impossible advice. She serves as a lecturer and a model at once, and her listen ers .are often foolish enough to believe that by going through with a lot of physical ex ertion and mental discipline they may change their visages from ugliness to loveli ness. Miss Jenness is making a comfortable fortune out of this illusion. It has become fashionable to bear her. I don't know that she is to le blamed particularly for taking her beauty to that sort of a market for sale. Beside, I can tell something to her credit. Probably not one woman in the audiences that throng to hear this apostle oi beauty culture, is aware that the inmates of a poor house were her first hearers. At the age of 18 Miss Jenness was a timid retiring creature and half an invalid, as she suffered intensely at times from a nervous disorder that puz zled the physicians and cost her many weary days and sleepless niirhts. Under her tim idity, however, was a determined spirit, else sbe might have been always an invalid. MABEL JENNESS AT SCHOOL. As it was, she entered the Boston School of Oratory, hoping to find partial relief at least from her suffering by the help of the required physical exercise and the absorp tion ol. her mind in something outside of her pain. But it was not an easy task that she bad undertaken. The daily oratorical drills before the olass were a terrible ordeal for her timid nature, and practice at home was no less painful. Herlamons sister, Mrs. Jenness-Mlller, bad been a graduate of the school and at tnis time was in the front rank of platform speakers. MLs Jen ness fonud it impossible to practice beiore her with any creditor profit to herseli, her sensitive fear of ridicule making her awk ward and constrained in tbe extreme. For a while sbe treated the birds and squirrels ot her lovely suburban home with daily specimens of her skill, bat the needed to Liinr JWm Jr mrAt MM WMWit MB 4 tor- look into attentive human eyes to gain con fidence in herself. Every attempt before her sister resulted in failure. Dr. Emerson, president of the school, strongly advised against these trials, Knowing what unsparing criticism Miss Jenness would suffer from her brilliant sister, and supplemented this advice by a startling suggestion. It was that she should give the inmates of the poor bouse a weekly reading. Nothing better shows. tbe quality of her spirit than her unhesitating compli ance with this advice. DELIGHTING THE PAUPERS. The unfortunates in the unwelcome re treat mentioned were transported with the sight of a beantifnl girl in elegant attire, standing before them for their entertain ment, and thev feasted their eyes, at least. while gems from the poets fell from her yonthlul lips. Whether the poets were glorified in their minds, or their minds glonhed by the poets is not known, but in their uncritical and sympathetic presence Miss Jenness gained a modicum of confi dence in her powers. At the end of the course she was improved in health and was graduated with honor. Miss Jenness now faces her fashionable audiences with a quiet, unassuming srrace. having become so much of an artist in her chosen work that the art itself is concealed. Bat, my dear aspiring cirl', do not rnn to the poor house for dis tinction, for you are not all Miss Jennesses, you know. A curious case of unforeseen and fortunate fashionableness is that of Carmeccita. A spectacular play was produced at a Broad way theater last summer. The ballet was good enough as to rank and file, but wolully lacking in solo dancers. Instead of paying tbe high salary necessary to import a new and really first-rate danseuse, a much cheaper investment had been made in a young Spanish woman, who was unique in posturing, whirling and .writhing, but she was no adept in her art. It was hoped that the singularity of her performance would make of her an acceptable substitute for the costlier conventional article. But it did not turn out so. CAEIIENCITA'S METEORIC CAREER. xnis woman was (Janncncita. Alter a spell of idleness, she accepted a job at Kos ter & Bial's garden. Of course, I didn't see her there, for that is not a ladies' resort. Alter her appearance at the Broadway Theater, I next witnessed her pose3 and gyrations iu the parlor of a Murray Hill mansion. It was the hostess' exploit at a reception to give her guest, instead of enter tainment by a vocalist or elocutionist, a dance by this Spanish creature, whose skirts reached to ner ankles and whose terpsi chorean feats were altogether modest. That she came direct from an alcoholic and dis reputable garden gave extra zest to the ex hibition. Then the Sun took the notion to exploit ner in several columns of description and pictures, the World and Herald each gave similar space to her, and she became a transitory fad. Hotter & Bial have a con tract with her, and sbe canuot break it, it indeed she wishes to, for her work there seems to render her more fashionable in the eyes of her polite spectators. Three or four times a week since her sudden vogue began she roes to the residence of some wealthy family and cets $100 for a half an hour of exertion. If sbe "ever, ever goes back to Spain," as the song in "The Gondoliers" puts it, she will be much licher than she could ever have dreamed of becoming by means of her visit to America. SHOWING BLACK VEINS. "Beauty is skin deep." and the manufac turers of face powders have made many and costly experiments 'in their search alter a preparation which will serve to make visi ble the blue veins sometimes seen beneath skins of certain texture. These are justly considered a great mark of beauty, and that a face powder having the power to bring them out in delicate tracery of a faint, almost imperceptible bine, "would have an extensive sale, goes without say ing. But the operation is not so simple as might be imagined. The skin is first treated with a paste, said to have been invented by a monk at the command of Pope Leo X, who had very beautiful bands and was very desirous of having the blue veins show plainly. Of course that is fol-dc-rol. After an applica tion of this magic paste" the powder must be used. The effect is startling. The only drawback to this invention is that it en ables the most ordinary parvenu, the merest upstart who may not know the name of her own grandfather, to pose as the "blue blooded" scion of aristocracy, and nnelove a hand which might have graced the arm of a duchess or even a princess. It behooves the so-called "refined woman." the real "gentlewoman," to cast about for some other distinctive mark by which she may still hold fast to her prerogatives. It would seem that the "blue-veined" hand, cheek or brow is no longer the sign of noble blood. Anybody may now exhibit her "blue veins" while she measures off a yard of ribbon for you. HER GENEROUS ADMIRER. A young Frenchman of title has become noticeably ardent in his devotion to a eirl who is a shining beauty mark in society, and gossip has had it that the engagement of the pair would soon be made public. The young lady had confided to her chum that her admirer was the sweetest man in the whole world, and among his many virtues he possessed the one that she demanded mot in a man he was generous to a fault. Knowing that she was fond of flowers, he sent to her. each day a wealth ot the most expensive ones to be found. When roses were most expensive he inundated her with them, and converted her boudoir into a fragrant bower of rare and beantif ul plants. One alternoon the chum was calling, and as tbe two sat together in the blossomin? room. the Frenchman's floral offering was brought in by a servant. The delighted girl sprang for the basket and buried her happy lace in its soft sweetness. "Isn't he a dear," cried she to her friend, plucking a regal rose and pinning it to her breast after bestowing upon it a rapturous kiss. CRUSHED BV A LITTLE NOTE. Just then she discovered a note tucked snugly among the flowers, and with a blush and an apology sbe tore open the envelope. As she read, her face grew grave and pale, and her hands trembled violently. "Oh, what has happened, Alice?" cried her friend, springing forward and putting her arm about tbe suffering girl's waist. Alice looked with wild eyes at the note and then thrust it into tbe hand of her friend. "Uead," she gasped. Tbe note was certainly painfully dis illusioning. It was as follows: "Will you not try to make the young man who sends you these flowers pay me his bill. He has given me nothing lor all the baskets I have sent since many months ago. The bill is very large and I am much in need of money. When I ask him he says go to the devil. I cannot sell him any more alter this, and I write to you hoping you may have influence to make him pay his debt." Tbe Frenchman went borne a few days ago, and Alice's chum has almost succeeded in making the disappointed girl believe that she would never have been happy mar ried to a man of his deceptive methods. Clara Belle. . COULDN'T F00L THE BEAB. Effort of a Miner, With a Grizzly Over Him, to simulate Death. New York Herald. Mike Bronnan, a miner on the Firee, had a bad quarter of an hour with a grizzly not many years ago. He and his partner shot at one and in the rush that followed the partuer's'skull was smashed and Mike was knocked over a bank and half-stunned. Tbe bear followed Mike and stood across his body watching for signs of life. Mike knew that he ought to keep still, but the suspense was too horrible and he attempted slyly to reactf his revolver. At the first stealthy movement the watchful grizzly seized Mike's right arm with his teeth, placed one paw upon bis breast and tbe other upon his arm, and tore out tht biceps mnscle. Brannan knew no more, except that when he regained consciousness the bear had gone. THE FLOWER GARDEN. Cultivation of the Beauties of Nature That Delight Us All. HOW TO KEEP BOUQUETS FEESH. A Ylsif to the Strickland Sisters in County Fent, 1 ngland. CAKE OF PLANTS DDEIKG WHITES iwarms roa Tin dispatch. ! One memorable summer many years ago I went to visit a school friend of mine who then lived at a place called Fsrnham, situ ated in the lovely little county of Kent. Most of my readers know, I presume, that nowhere in England do flowers bloom more luxuriantly than in this spot. Indeed, Kentls often called the "Flower-garden of Old England." It was one morning in June the month of roses, the time when all things bloom, when earth looks gayest clad in her silvery green that Mr. Hincks, my little friend's father, invited us to take a long drive. "We will go through Farnham park to the village, take the long route home and see onr two celebrities," he said, know ingly. "What celebrities?" I asked curiouslyj but no answer was vouchsafed; and present ly all was forgotten save the lovely land scape. We drove along between the most lovely banks of honeysuckle, rose and sweet brier until we entered the shady oak avenue leading to the Bishop's palace. Here all was trim and in perfect order. Old fash ioned flowers were growing in their straight beds just where they had been planted a century ago, and crowded each other so closely they scarcely seemed to have room to blossom. On one side of tbe palace there still stands an old stone bench, encircled by the green arms of old, old trees, where once, in the rosy light of early morning dr tbe fragrant dusk of twilight, eager, soft, loving voices, discussed the brightness of the days to come or the happiness of days gone by. Ah, me! The morning is as rosy as ever, and the sun sbiue is as golden as of yore, but the rose has faded long ago from my lady's cheek, and the silvered head of the good Bishop of Winchester lies low in the ancient burying ground at the end ot the village street. THE OLD BETTER THAN THE NEW. I think the old-fashioned gardens stir within us a feeling which the handsomely arranged modern ones, with tbeir blaze of color and stiffness of massing fail to excite. A charming picture of just such a quaint garden suddenly met bur childish eyes that morning. Fruit trees, especially the pink cinged, exquisite apple blossoms, were inter mixed with vegetables and flowers. Honey suckle and sweet pea3, sweetbrier and jasa mine clustered abundantly over the walls, filling the air with fragrance and almost ravishing the senses with their sweet per fume. Back of the gate, which shut off this secluded paradise from tbe outside world; lilies, heliotropes and roses of every hue and size made you fully aware of their pres ence. Certain characters and associations al ways seem to belong to certain flowers, and the little elderly ladies engaged in clipping and digging round their plants as we drove up to the pretty cottage that sunny morn ing have ever since been associated in my mind with quaint oid-time flowers. They were introduced as "Miss Agnes" and "Miss Mary," and it was not until after we had left them, smiling and bowing on their doorstep, that X discovered they were the famous "Strickland" sisters, the writers of the "Queens of England." 1 owe much of the glory of my flowers. " saiu Miss iigncs, whose hair was silvery even then, "to my compost heap." "Indeed; and of what does it consist?" asked Mr. Hincks. "OdJs and ends of vegetables; ashes, feathers from my chickens, old brine, pounded bones, and contributions from my waste paper baskets. I also put wood ashe's and iron into the ground at the roots of my blossoming flnwers and leaves." So spoke Miss Strickland; and my own later experience proves the correctness of her statement. Finks of all varieties, forget-me-nots, all kinds of daisies, campanula, petunias, and verbenas, are all perennials, which, though they die down at the approach ot winter, still retain life at tbe root3 and spring up with renewed beauty and vigor at the first appearance ot mild spring weather. Violets are cousins-german to pansies, and need a rich, strong soil, and thrive famously on fowl manure. They do not care for suushine, but do crave plenty of water in the morning. Tbey are usually at their best in May, though olten cultivated in pots for winter use. I have kept them in the ground all winter, on the sunny side of tbe house, and protected them by old boards sunk into tbe earth abont two feet. Vou can use a bottomless box with a glass cover, which should slant and always be raised on sunny days. When cold weather has at last come, tne plants muse ba covered with dry leaves. When, you want them to bloom remove this covering. When the days and nights are extra cold, a piece of carpet should be placed over the box. Follow these directions carefully, and you will be rewarded bv haviug violets at Christ mas. T.iis is the English plan and proves quite successful in this climate. Mignon ette, "little darling," is the poor man's flower as well as tbe poet's, gives a constant succession of bloom; so also do sweet peas, balsams, asters aud chrysanthemums. An nuals take longer to arrive at the blossom ing period, and are not so certain as shrubs and vines, but no one considers his list of flowers complete without these. GROWING GERANIUMS. Nothing in the way of flowers repays ona for a small outlay to. the same extent as geraniums; double, single and foliage varie ties will in themselves form a garden. Sandv soil, good garden soil, decayed leaf and old cow manure will produce fine, large blossoms in abundance. There is a pure while variety, 'iEeine des Vierges," (Queen of Virgins),, which is exquisite. A bed shaded from this to pale and rosy lines would make a delightful show to the eya and be always pleasing with its perfect bar moay. The scarlet geranium should be placed. by itself or only in conjunction with the white; and the double should ba grown alone as thns only can their beauty be seen to the best advantage. Geraniums bloom admirably in winter if taken up early in October and placed in s sunny window. If you would preserve cut flowers as long as possible do not tie them in bunches, but arrange loosely. Always use a knife or a pair of shears lor cutting woody plants, such as roses and camelias. It is far better to gather your flowers than to let them wither upon the stems. Cool rooms keep flowers fresh, and the removal ot each flower as it fades will preserve the others. I have known hot water to restore flowers to freshness, even with drooping petals; and ammonia added to the water will revive them quickly. It is a good plan for tboso given to botanizing to carry a close fitting tin case, a wet sponge and a basket. Fat your small flowers in the case, insert tbe stems of tbe large ones in the sponge and place in the basket. Be c-ireful never to gather flowers when tha sou is shining. Should yoa want them for the next day, be.'ore the going down of his majesty, gather .them tbe preceding night and put tnem in a coot ceiiar. XiUteTtarm water is prelerable to cold, and on no ao ; ' count expose them to a draught. Flowers "-& seldom droop gracelnlly.and get into just the ' right combinations by a kind of happy acci- vi dent. Their harmonious arrangement is tha "s result of cultivation and practice. "The perfection ot art consists in its apparent ab : tit tt r sir xi leUCC -u. .u- u. UAU&, a L.&M.
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers