If R . THE PITTSBUEG DISPATCH, SDWDAT, MAEOH 30, 1890. 20 & m " i ii '" i . f . . . . lgjS 17 IP& tion. A of years has not sated me with mgjgjg fj (JONE. n M.wfTmmsmm'o,. WHEN SUMMER'S HEAT COMES. The Counters Loaded Down With Goods of Bewildering Designs nod Countless Combinations of Colors That Will Beamlfr Ibe Beautiful nnd Mnke Everybody Comfortnbln Tbls Senson. iwnirrsx tor the digfatcb. jikm ij -,"--- is no rest lor y the fashionably weary. ;j No sooner has the Easter costnme been decided upon, pur chased, made up and put out of sight than the necessity forces it self upon us of getting cummer wear put through the same course, before the arrival of the hammock-days, when to get anything accomplished, whether by thought or muscular effort, is literally to earn it "by the sweat of the brow." That this work may be effected before such time is the season given by merchants for the un seasonable display of such goods. It is a rich feast for our eyes the fashion caterer has- spread for us this season not one of scraps, like a wash-day luncheon; no cooked-over ideas but all delightfully What They Will Look Like. new and palatable to fashionable taste, and in such bewildering designs and combina tions of colors, and almost countless num bers, that there is danger of the instinct of choice becoming contused, and the difficulty of making righteous selections augmented. However, this embarrassment may be obviated and shopping rendered less tire some to both buyer and seller by getting a knowledge of the goods obtainable, and deriding upon one's own needs and desires beforehand. Courteous salesmen and honorable merchants are in a great de gree the production of polite and agreeable customers who know what they want before they enter a .store and how to buy it with satisfaction to themselves, which also gives satisraction to merchant and employe. There is a style in being well informed to goods and in being fastidious in making selections which gives no offense to the vendor of goods, but rather stimulates him to furnish such a customer with the best in bis line for the price asked. Tiiere is no better school in which to cultivate the noblesse oblige, which means so much in French and no less in English, than in a store, whether before or behind the counter. PERFECT COriES OF BETTER GOODS. Ginghams, sateens, batistes, chambergs and percales vie with each other for popular preference, and are such perfect copies of their silk and woolen relatives, that the dif ference is scarcely perceptible upon first no tice. In sateens we have reproduced the pretty flower, leaf, polka dot and other de signs commonly seen in India and foulard silks and in challies; and in lace effects wbite on colored grounds these for foot trimming and the style ot makeup not dif fering from the new suitings which they so perfectly imitate in colors and in this par ticular design. Iu the Scotch ginghams we have the tar tan plaids of all the clans found in silk or in wool, perfectly copied. For these I should think license would be issued for making them upas picturesquely as desired, for the oung particularly, and really it would seem this gaily colored plaid in "full suits is only appropriate for those in their first bloom. For the rest of us there are fancy plaids in large or in smaller bars and in stripes of all widths, in s-ift, delicate, neutral tints, quite restful to the eye sur feited with high colors. Some of these have several colors blended; for instance, mauve, rose-pink and lavender, or heliotrope, beige and old rose. One charming stripe in vieux rose and gobelin blue, the stripes alternat ing and two inches each in width, is dis tinctly remembered. These make up effec tively when combined with any color rcpre sented in the stripes. Side hand ginghams come in large checks on plain ground. One pretty piece had the band or border checked in yellow and white on blue ground. And again these same have graduated stripes in white on colored ground. ONE OF THE PRETTIEST. Bourette gingham is one of the prettiest novelties displayed. These have irregular blocks-broken bars would be a plainer term in very rough-knotted threads thrown up in shot work over the fabric. The most effective of the bourettes have the shot work in black and white over plain colors. These are to be had in all of the new beige, old rose, edison. rcsed , etc, shades. Black, in stripes all black, or edging colored stripes, all of which have sateen surface, is a new feature in ginghams. These stripes are sometimes seen on the selvedge only, to be used for trimming and again spaced all over the plain ground with flowers in chine patterns distributed between stripes a la pompadour. Even the Arabesque designs are reproduced iu the new rinchams. One pattern of gobelin blue and vieux rose in brocaded stripes two inches wide, is dis tinctly remembered out of the -haos of colors and designs. In the makeup of wash material the pres ent season, the popular idea seems to be to cut all plaids and stripes on the bias, neces sitated no doubt by the dartless waist, which is to have no showing of buttons or other fastening and to fit so snugly as Vwt .x.-'flJ. ymsr. 4xk J AT" "" IK )Wf i I mWM ' .'I WfJtti 11 1 JK,1 Wl .fill li-vl wit III few rv-1 to be suggestive of a smelting process having been resorted to, in order to obtain the poured-in-while-hot-appearance. This to the uninitiated appears" a difficult matter but like everything else its easy when you know how. The fit, if the gar ment is dependent on the lining, which is seamed, darted and buttoned just like any other dress waist, the trick being in success fully stretching the bias material (and you see this could not be accomplished with straight goods) across this lining from side to side and secreting the fastenings on the shoulders and under the arms. See? AH very well for the full, well-rounded figure, but how about those to whom dame nature has donated more grace and less flesh! I hear you inquire. Well for all such, Sara Bernhardt, who has been called the rATEON SAINT OF THIN WOMEN, has fixed as fashions in the loose and flow ing that will exist and be standard until all the spirituelle have been embonpoint, and which styles are as adaptable to wash goods as to silks and laces. The large cool sleeves, surplice waist, the folds held in place at the belt line by one of the many useful buckles, which are introduced ex pressly for this style and which come curved like a corset steel to fit the body, and draperies the most easily laundried, will always be a sensible and pretty style for all material known as "wash goods." Mouslin, all over embroidered, is her alded as a trimming for solid-colored ging hams and percales used upon jacket fronts sometimes the entire front being made of the embroiderv lor collars or vokes and cuffs, and introduced upon the skirt in pan nels after the manner of the accompanying illustration. Wide Vandykes of this white embroidery will be inserted straight across the front of pointed bodices in vote fashion. The vandyked footband of the new woolen suitings is reproduced in the new ginghams in thejsame Venetian and Russian and point du genes effects. Dealers say batiste was never so fine or exquisitely colored as the present season. Tne choicest of these have wide hem-stitched ecru-colored bauds with pointed designs above this, also in ecru, the points extending up over the delicate ame thyst, old pink, gobelin blue or other plain color. These, like the wool suitings, have the same design on opposite selvedge nar rowed to serve as garniture lor the waist THE BOEDER IDEA is also carried out ou the all-white goods. Some times a little delicate coloring is in troduced as a tinv spray beading, or, in an all-over shower ot" flowers in natural tints the colors only border deep. In white em broidered mnslins we note the absence of all coarse open work and a close imitation of the fine French handworK, which is a long step toward greater refinement in this line. For trimming wash material of all kinds, open-patterned gimps and passamenteries 01 cords; some made all white and others with colored cords to match plain color, to be trimmed, are shown. This trimming comes from an inch to several iuches in width, and in most of the new pointed designs. "While it is not possible to enumerate within the limits ot an article like this, all that is new and "too-lovely-for-anything," enough has been mentioned to raise the question whether we shall not he in the same plight with the other donkey who stood untethercd among several ricks of hay and starved to death because he wanted all and couldn't make up his mind which one to begin on. Thanks are due to Messrs. Boggs & Buhl. JIec. WOMEN IS JOURNALISM. Margaret E. Sanesier bays They Will Never supersede Men, But in Certain Lines of Worn: Can Snrceed Admirably Their Treatment by the Men. r WRITTEN FOE THE DISPATCH. In her cozy nook in the very heart of the great Harper establishment, surrounded by the whir of bookmaeing machinery, the noise of which penetrates but does not seem to permeate the quiet of her sanctum, sits daily at her cditotial desk Mrs. Margaret E. Sangster, the controlling mind of that famous periodical, Harper's Bazar. Her personality, physical and mental, is well known. Modest as she is, Mrs. Sangster has not been able to prevent the strengtii and sweetness of her'character from shouins far outside the circle which comes into actual contact with it; her admirers arc the thousauds who read her u things, herfrieudt the public throughout the land. It was with rather a denrecatorv shake of the head that Mrs.Sangster greeted a visitor recently, who went to her asking an opinion upon the subject of "Women in Journal ism." "Who are some of the women earliest prominent in this field?" repeated Mrs. Sangster. "That stronsr and brilliant pioneer in the work, Mrs. Swisshelm, is, of course, the uinie which first suzzests itself. Bnt r now her followers are legion. The reasons lor tnis are thegreater interest in home dec oration, the wider scope of women's lives, and the many new avenues of self-support open to her sex. The fashions, the home economies, the care of babies, the educa tion of the older children, the ethics of daily life, social customs, etiquette, amusements and other topics which equally touch life at the fountain head of the home, enlist woman b attention. THE FIELD HAS WIDENED. "Where 40 years ago a mother's magazine, pure indeed, but intensely narrow and con servative, monopolized the field, we have bright housekeeping and borne matin; periodicals, weekly and monthly, which are as various in their contents as the homes to which they go and which carry help, advice, sympathy, and a note of cheer wherever the swift mails carry them. To this department of journalism, as legitimate and as honorable as any other, the edu cated woman brings her tact, her culture, her conscience and her brain. You will rarely find that the woman who writas regards her occupation, though it may entail hard, al most unremitting labor, with other than enthusiasm. There is a fascination about seeing one's ideas and opinions set out in type that does not wear away with repeti- If 1l Airs. Margaret E. Sangster. tion. A score ot years has not sated me with the experience. "Of women reporters it is scarcely fair for me to speak; I know only by hearsay of their branch of the work; it is different in so many respects from tho department in which I have always labored that I am not competent authority in the matter. I, know a numberof lovely women who have made a beginning in this way, and as many, too, who are still lollowinir it. Their large measure of success indicates the aptitude of women for this phase of newspaper enter prise. I think, however, that women like to get out of general reporting as soon as possible. It is arduous work and ap proaches more nearly the distasteful, so some of my friends have told me, than any other branch of journalistic effort. COURTESIES OF THE OFFICES. "Concerning the co-working of the sexes in journalism," continued Mrs Sangstcr in reply to lurther questioning, "ray experi enced that women have absolutely nothing to complain of concerning their treatment by their brother laborers. I do not know that they have done so, although a lady not lone ago did express to me a little querul ously, in speaking of a visit to a publication office during its busiest time, that she 'was cot even offered a chair.' A woman should not ask too much. A courteous civility even under the greatest pressure ot work she will always get, and more ought not to be insisted upon. One docs not expect the gallantry of the drawing room in the rush of peremptory and absorbing labor any more than one looks for white and gold cab inets in the appointments of the business office." "Something of the future of woman's pur suits of a journalistic calling?" continued Mrs. Sangster; "I am disinclined to think that she will ever supersede man in any very perceptible degree. Women have published as well as edited newspapers and periodi cals, but in such exceptional and rarely re curring instances as to rather point the asser tion that women cannot compete with men in this particular than to serve as a pre cedent. LACKS BUSINESS INSTINCTS. "Her executive ability is sufficient I think the average woman has more of that than the average man but she has not the inherent business instincts and natural business habits that geueratious of system atic workers have developed in her brother laborer. "The woman journalist must be systematic, though she cannot be the slave of system. She must grasp details, make quick decis ions and learn how to say no, in every possi ble inflection. She must be quiet-maunered and self-controlled, not losing her temper when tilings go wrong. "She will (eel, if she be born a journalist and journalists, like poets, are born, not made the pulse of her public opinion. She will seize by intuition the topics which are vita!, but all the while through the tumult and turmoil of the hour she will hear the far off booming ot the bells ot eternity and realize that her work is not for to-day nor to-morrow onlv, but forever." M. H. Welch. MAKING HOME BKAUTIFUL. A Lamp Slat That is Very Handsome and Very Easily Made. SWBITTBN TOR THE DISPATCH.! Now that lamps are so freely used, there seems to be au equal demand for mats which serve the double purpose of ornamenting and protecting the table upon which they rest. When to be used upon a dining table which is lighted by one of the lofty "ban quet lamps," the mat is made of material that does not conflict with the whiteness of the napery. If for a parlor or sitting room table, or little stand, the lamp mat may be of velvet, satin or plush. The mat illustrated is made of green satin, with an interlining of cardboard and back ot green canton flannel. The border, which projects beyond the square of cardboard, is made ot maple leaves, ot which the dark ones are worked on the satin. The light ones are made of green velvet of a lighter shade. They are buttonholed on the edge with dark green embroidery silk. The rein ing is done in Kensington stitch with the same silk. The satin leaves which appear to underlie the others are edged with a but tonholing of light creen silk and filled with lace or honeycomb stitch. The points of all the leaves arc cut out after the edge is worked. An easily made lamp mat and one that is not at all expensive is a circle of dark felt, stiffened with cardboard and bordered with .t thick roll of red yarn; over the roll is a covering of knitted tinsel. It is knitted loosely, on rather large wooden needles, in the plain stitch used for making garters or suspenders. The knitted strip is to be sewed over the yarn roll very loosely. No one seeing this border, unless familiar with the tinsel used in this way, would imagine how it was made. Mhs. McC. Hungerford. WHAT WOMEN ARE DOING. Gossip and Information Prepared by Eliza Archnrri Conner. twnlTTKN FOR THE DISPATCH.! Jennie June is agitating on the co operative housekeeping idea. I have beard of a prettv and fashionable jrlrl who is so ncid in church observances that during Lent sno will only flirt with the pastor. What a delightful world to liro in it will be when we women ccaso to criticise each other and learn instead to correct our own faults. Let us try it awhile. Sins. Clara Simpson, ot Vancouver, is writing a botany especially adapted to the flora of tho State of Washington, liach State ought to have a botany ot its on. One woman, Mrs. Maria Beagley, of Phila delphia, has invented something that is really worth while. It is a machine to do coopers' work, and turns out hundreds of barrels a day. TnE annual Lenten spectacle of learned doc tors of divinity thundering away at the poor women sinners is on again in full blast. Why can tby not rivc us a rest and thunder away at the men awhile, for once? It would be both interesting and instructive if ladles' parliamentary classes and literary clubs would take up the pmnts at issue be tween Speaker Heed and cx-Spuaker Carllsle.or the United States House of Itepresentativcs. study both sides of the question carefully and discuss it at their meetings. Such a discussion f would give them much information about par liamentary usage. IT is pleasant to notice how many names of women newspaper correspondents appear. Women seem to make especially good corre spondent", for their contributions are sprightly and readable. If they penetrated more thor oughly the heart of leading topics of the time and acquired more fullness of information their work, much o! it, would stand for a model or journalistic correspondence. A itlFLEWOitEN's club has been formed in Bermuda, and tho wife of the Governor of the island is President of it. The ladies have a range of their own far enough from civilized habitations for the shots not to hit hens or bus bands. There they bang away at their own sweet will. They have already become excel lent marksmen at 100 yards distance, showing that, though a woman may not be able to drive a nail, she can hit a mark. Dexvkr, Col., has an incorporated stock company of women who have undertaken the development of a summer resort at Diana Park, 10 miles from that city. It is de-igned especial ly lor tho comfort of women, children and families. Ground suitable for tents or cottages may be leased or bought of the managers. Adjoining the resort will also be lor tale ground in plots of from three to five acres. These are designed for gardening, rrnlts bee keenintr. nonltrv raislncr. etc These small farms will be sold to women who defire to earn their living at outdoor employments. Tho Winter's Rigors Have Played Havoc With the Gentler Sex. PROCESSES BUILDING Shirley Dare Sngsests the Need of Fires 'and Proper Underwear. HINTS REGARDING FOOD PRODUCTS IWMTTEN FOB TUE DISPATCH. The page from which I have just risen, in a prose poem exquisitely carried out in Hawthorne's vein, has these words: "And what or all things that monuments arc built in memory of, is most loved and soon est forgotten? Is it not a beautiful woman? Who loves her for the beauty she once pos sessed? Is there in all history a figure so lonely and despised as that of the woman who, once the most beautiful in the world, crept back into her native land a withered being?" It is true. Yet against this decree of age and ugliness should not women set them selves with all the skill their fertile brains furnish? The hand has been put back nearly 20 years on the dial of human life, which lasts till the sixties, where at the be ginning of the century it was doomed to fail at 40. Men have forced back death; should not women outwit age and decay? These are questions to be repeated and pressed upon the consideration. Women look less beautiful than usual this spring. Many of tbem have had a sore struggle with the winter epidemic, whose after-effects on those of sensitive physique are as tedious as the sequela; of scarlet fever or typhoid, from which a patient cannot call himself recovered under a year. It will take many days basking in the warm sunshine, many days breathing the deep free winds which stir the blood, and many nights of sound sleep to restore the tone to un strung nerves. If the work is half done, as it usually is, the penalty will be visible in sallow laces, lackluster eyes and drooping forms. Women must perforce learn wisdom. FEY FROM THE CLUES. Not a few will find themselves forced to simplify their social work and drop much of tne routine, useless duty which has absorbed them. The woman who is a member of 11 clubs, political, literary and charitable, will be obliged to ignore them so long that it is possible she may find existence more en durable without than with tlieui. For the mere routine of these woman's clubs makes an enormous waste ot time. As to the glit tering generality ot Shakespeare and liter ary clubs, their usefulness is summed up by a bright young member, who writes that "a set of old hens cet together and pick other people to pieces," and another speaks of them as "gossip served on trays with Shakes peareor Browning to float on the teacups." So if you mourn that your privileges arc cut off, dear madam, by want of strength, rest consoled tbut the loss is cot irreparable, either to the club or to you. The only work worth mentioning in the world, the only kind that lasts and tells is individual work, whether of brain or hand. One can't object to gossip on any reasonable ground indeed has not Dr. Deems recently christened it with much insight "the humanities of con versation?" That is when it is human and not fiendish, for there is a human interest in other people', affairs, and an inhuman one. But gossip weakens literature past tolera tion. Perhaps this is the reason why the most prominent woman's club in the coun try makes the melancholy confession in its yearly report that it has "to depend for in terest" on the efforts of six of its members, the rest being content with taking no part at all in its discussions. Now, a man's club which depended on halt a dozen members would turn up its toed and die, out of sheer decency. BY TIIEIE EIGHT NAMES. If you want an excuse for having a good time, christen your gathering gossip club or the scandalmongcry and try to live up to it. .mere won t oe any more harm for the ad mission. Calling things by their right names lets a flood of light upon their de signs sometimes, and a club known as the Old Cats or tha Backbiters' Own would probably have as little of their name-vices as is consistent with feminine nature. A good, lively club of this kind might be a re source for tired housemothers, who need chat and fun, which nobody thinks of sun plying them. People who work hard and feel worn out don't want serious topics or anything like study for a while. They may learn jnst as much in a light way and re member it longer. But strike off the clubs and coteries from your list as non-essentials until you recover the strength of three women. Buy spring dress ready made, rather than bother with dressmakers, proverbially the most perfidious of their sex, and the worst instructed of any craftswomen in the cities and towns. Don't undertake to attend all the Lent services or get up birthday parties or golden weddings or anything which re quires outlay ot nerve. Friends will be sure to say, "I should think she might be able to do just this and that," or they doubtless will go a step further aud say, "She might if she wantel to!" But you must not mind them. Life is too dear a possession to be played with, and you only know you have your strength when you don't spend it. PROPER SPEING UNDERWEAR. Everv woman who values her health this chilly stormy spring, true breeder of typhoid pneumonia, should go into silk underwear, vests, chemiserie, skirts and nightgowns, if she has to economize on her dresses to pro vide them. Neuralgia and rheumatism are flying round, fell brood O' the winter scourge and no cost can be considered dear which wards them off. Flannel has not the same warmth or electric action on the skin. A featherweight of a silk garment has more warmth thau a thick wool one, with the ad vantage of lightness. The knickerbockers of black silk in fashion are commendable when spriug winds are abroad. At a sudden reel of wind at a street corner, a glimpse ot trim black silk stockins and rose embroidered black silk 'utiles has far less the effect of an expose than a fleeting show of white gar ments. And the pink and blue slumber robes of India silk do so kindly keep off the pains in the shoulder next the crevice of the bedclothes when the tail ot a cyclone is showing how full of drafts a $4,000 a year house can be. Silk underwear doesn't mean combination suits in this instance, nor those nondescript attachments called "leglettes" by women with one lobe to their hi ain. As one bril liant woman siys (whom you would all know if I gave her away): "I wouldn't be found dead with 'cm on!" Kate Field tells a witty and wicked story about an old woman up in Vermont, whose only amuse ment was the villace lecture course every season, which led off with Colonel Ingersoli one week and Mrs. Jenness Miller the next, when the old lady came home thunder struck. "No everlasting torment and no chemise! What was the world coming to! For her part, if both were to be done away with, she didn't waut to live in it any longer." MUST KEEP UP THE TIRES. If you love life and your families don't stint fires this spring, it you have to Keep them mornings till the middle of June. This season will decide mauy families to go into homes of their own where they can have a fire at pleasure, when the hotels have shut ofi steam, and the boarding houses have put the furnace out. They suffer, these poor rich people, in their high-priced hotels lor the simple comforts of life. It gives a pang to think how an ailing iriend used to come languitj and blue into the office down town for warmth, alter shivering for hours iu liis rooms at the expensive hotel, because the steam was turned off for the season, and no nrovision made for tires in the room. He took his death blow then. Somehow, for showy lite, his many thousands of incomf could not bring him the comrort of an Irish woman's tenement room. An invention was shown in New York city last spring which meets the wants of households better thau any other warming apparatus. Perhaps its excellence is the very reason why it was hustled out of the way, so that its present address cannot be found. It would cot be the first invention so useful it had to be killed for fear of its superseding everything else of the kind. A sheet iron tank holding several gallons'of kerosene was fixed on tho wall with a quar ter inch pipe leading to a firebox of porous clay or stone, through which the oil filtered, filling the box with flame. Any more com plete economy of fuel is not to be found, and the ease with which it was regulated was a great recommendation. The room once warm with a quick fire, the oil could be turned off to the merest dribble sufficient, with slight flame, to keep the house at an even warmth all day or night without at tention. NO EXTRA INSURANCE. It was said to be so safe that the insur ance companies charged no extra risk for it, and one gallon of oil was enough to keep a 15 foot room warm for 24 hours. I want to know wnat has become nf this invention. Just such a method is needed to heat houses in the uncertain seasons when children and women suffer mild miseries or cot so mild, for want of dry warm air. It is stern truth that no one can judge of the warmth necessary for another's system differing so widely. I have enjoyed a full experience of la grippe which draws heavily ou the reserve of force, and will for some time to come, because a hot-tempered wom an resolved that her boarders needed co more heat than she saw fit to give tbem, and two authors, bent on serious work, shivered three days over their writing last December and came down with this unknown malady, which takes ten years out of life, a story which hundreds of others can duplicate. So, pleasant readers, whose kindly messages come day by day, if your letters and ques tions are not answered, it is because for months it has seemed easier to lie down and pass out of existence than to" do anything else. That is the way the epidemic leaves you. One galvanizes oneself to work un avoidable, and then drops into inertness of body and soul. THE BEST OF FOODS. People must take to eating food which has the fullest nourishment. The new process has nearly ground and bolted the life out ot flour, so "that bread, the staff of life, is slighter than a wheat straw. Anew com pany in Philadelphia has started the busi ness of making perfectly nutritious bread without the yeast or powders, which is a surprise to everyone who eats it. Two of their muffins with a cup of coffee make more of a working breakfast than a whole meal beside. The company furnishes a dozen forms of these cakes.m'ade from whole wheat meal mixed with water and salt, and baked by steam, the application of quick heat rais ing them perfectly. The brown sweet little "breads" are gain ing in favor witji all brain workers who try them. One physician well-known in New York, has five dozen sent by express each Monday for his supply. An excellence of the new process is that the bread is as good a week alter baking as the day it is baked. It feeds the nerves, it satisfies the appetite, the eyes grow brighter for using it, the com plexion clearer, the color richer. Wheat supplies a nearly complete food or the foun dation for it, with a small amount of the best meats and fruits and vegetables in variety. Sedentary women, as a rule, eat far too much meat. It should be taken hot and well served at one meal, with fish, broth. salad or croquettes at another, but certainly omitted at the third meal. Less work for the digestion means " more vigor lor the brain. ANOTHER GOOD FOOD. Where even the steam baked cakes are a tax on the system, a lighter food is the stale muffins dried in the great oven and pounded into a coarse meal, very nourishing, crisp and nice to take. Two or three tablespoon fuls of this with a cup of broth or grape juice furnishes a repast on which one can do more brainwork than on an ordinary dinner. It is really an ideal food and the wonder of being suddenly free from the malaise which attends common food inclines one to turn anchorite and live on it at once. Most healthful foods pass for very much more than they are worth, but here is a perfectly wholesome bread, prepared in the simplest way from the best material, and is what fcod ought always to be. There is precious little self-denial in going without headache, dullness, languor and exchanging (these for a light frame and spirits, clear eyes and clearer head. So if the epidemic has left you feeling only half yourself, the first thing is to build up the ruins bv supplying good nutrition, suited to weakened powers. Then the black line under the eyes will disappear, smooth, fresh cheeks will replace gaunt, sallow out lines, while mental improvement keeps pace with the outward. Lastly, keep in the sun and pure air, and if you cannot go out for it, let sun and air come to you. Choose the sunny window for your work, and keep the room ventilated, opening windows every hour for a few miu utes. Best with lounge or bed drawn into the sunshine, an hour of which is better than many grains of quinine for giving strength. Not an hour of the priceless sun should be wasted between this and July, by those who would undj the ravages of dis ease. Shirley Dare. WHEN NIAGARA KAN DRY. Ico Dntnmed the River and No Water Gat Through Iho Falls. A New York pioneer says in the St. Louis Globe-Democrat that on March 29, 1848 for a few hour! scarce any water passed over Niagara Falls. The winter baa been an extraordinarily severe one.and ice of.unusu al thickness had been formed on Lake Erie. The warm spring rains had the effect of loosening the congealed mass, and during the day mentioned a stiff east wind drove the ice far up into the lake. About sun down the wind suddenly changed and blew a heavy gale from the west. This turned the ice in its course, bringing it down to the mouth of the Niagara river and piling it up iu a solid mass. The force of it was so great that soon the ontlet of Lake Erie was so completely choked up, that little or no water could pass. Soon all the water below the barrier had passed over the lalls, and when the in habitants awoke the next morning a weird spectacle met their gaze. The roaring, tumbling rapids above the falls were almost obliterated, and nothing but the cold black rock were visible everywhere. Crowds of spectators, witnessed this sight and the banks on either side of the river were lined with people all day long until the ice in the lake was released from its position, and the wall ot the waters returned to their usual course. GIKLS IN 0DR COLLEGES. Al.ndVs Gift to JoIiub Hopkins Drlnsa Out n Severe Comment. The Johns Hopkins University at Balti more has celebrated its fourteenth anniver sary. In his address on the occasion. Presi dent Kemsen announced the establishment of a new professorship, the "Caroline Donovan Chair." Now, I don't know who Caroline Donovan was, writes Elizabeth Archard Conner, bnt she would have been in much better business if she had given her money to some college that admits her own sex. Women have been for years kuockiugattbe doors of Johns Hopkins, begging tor admis sion, but they have invariably been refused, and that not always Courteously. A brilliant young girl friend of mine some years ago used all her efforts to be allowed to take the course in chemistry, which at that time was a superior one. She was a college graduate, and admirably fitted to do honor to Johns Hopkins. But there was no chance at all lor her, and my young friend was obliged, at much expense, to cross the ocean to monarchical England and enter the scientific classes of the University of London, whose trustees do not consider it too high and mighty to admit women students. In her own ire'e country there was no high class chemical school that would admit this talented American girl. WOMEN'S INTENTIONS. Eecord of tho American Female Brain in the Patent Office, THE COTTON GLN A WOMAN'S IDEA. Everything- From Babies' Toys to Slowing Machines and War Teasels. A LIST OP INTERESTING NOVELTIES COr.HESrONDENCE OP THE DISPATCn.l Washington, March 29. KE American girl of to-day has her seven leagued boots on. She is walking at tele graphic Speed into every department of American indnstrv. and we have at Wash ington several women lawyers and half a dozen female doctors of more than ordinary reputation. There are something like 5,000 Muttache Spoon. . bright girls working in the departments, and there is hardly a law yer's office nor a claimant's den in the city which has not its women typewriters. Tnere are one or two women engaged in the real estate business here who are buying and selling and getting gain, and the activity of the great female brain the country over is shown every week in the inventions which they file at the Patent Office. Women are rapidly coming to the front as inventors, and there is no reason to believe that our sex cannot get up any new thing Socking Chair inn Attachment. from corsets to locomotives as well as those mechanics who are supposed to be made of sterner stuff. Already with the whole mas culine world sneering at ns, we have pro duced about one-tenth of the patents grant ed since the beginning of the Government, and many of the inventions which have made fortunes for men have been invented by their wives, their sisters or their lady friends. Eli Whitney gets the credit of the cotton gin and the industrial world to-day worships his shade. Yet it was the widow of General Green at whose house Whitney was visiting, who gave him the idea, and he made bis model under her supervision. It was she who substituted wire teeth for wood en pegs, and it was her idea to revolutionize the cotton trade. SOME HISTORICAL INVENTIONS. The first straw bonnet made in the United States was turned out by Betsy Metcalf, of Providence. R. L. in 1T98. and now Mam. cbusetts has tens of thousands of women in the bonnet business, and she turns out her tens of millions of straw hats every year. It was a woman who first invented the mak ing of pillow lace, and an Italian girl named Isabella Cunio produced one of the first en gravings from wood. A French woman in vented the manikin which has done so much for dressmaking and physiology, and the finest pyramid that was ever made in old Egypt was after the design of Nitocris, the Egyptian Queen. Another Queen of Egypt designed the obelisks, and it was a woman's brain which planned the hanging gardens of xsaoyion. Semiramis, the Queen of Persia, invented a gown which was adopted by the Median aud Persian kings as an insignia of royalty, and this was the gown which Haman hoped that Ahasuerus would put upon him when he sat at the gate and thought that he was the one whom the King delighted to honor. He got a rope instead and the saying "Hung as high as Haman" has gone down into history. The Semiramisgown is still known in the East and there are in the patent office to-day many inventions of women's apparel patented by women. There are in tho model room enough cor sets to hold the frames of all the Washing ton society belles and to give each one an article ot different material made in a differ ent shape. There are enough patent bosom pads to cushion the seats ot both Houses ot Congress, and the designs for curious skirts and dresses, it they 'were pasted together, would carpet a county. MEN INVENT WOMEN'S CLOTHES. There is enough wire in the patents for bustles to make springs for every bed in Vice President Morton's big flat I noted Patent Baby Dreu. some corsets perforated with holes like a patent chair seat, and made of wbite parch ment molded into shape. The advantages claimed for them were their ventilating qualities, and Annie S. McLean has made a combined shoulder brace, corset and bosom pad in one. Catharine O'Hara has invented about20 different patents forcrino line, and Catharine Griswold patented a combination corset and shoulder brace, out of which she has made a lot ot money. The majority of patents for women's clothes, however, are granted to men, and there are thousands of men to-day who do nothing else but scheme and scheme to invent some thing which will add to the beauty or tickle the tastes of women. The inventions of women coyer all branches of life, and, strange to say. quite, as many patents are granted to them for im proved machinery as for articles of women's wear. As far back as 1828 Elizabeth H. Buckley patented a sheet-iron shovel, and the first submarine telescope and lamp in .vented in this country was patented by Sarah P. Mather in 1845. By this telescope the bottom of a ship cau be seen, wrecks can be inspected and torpedoes sighted in time of war. The model for it is one of the finest in the Patent Office. It is made of brass, and one part of it is a tube nearly one foot in diameter. The first patent granted to a woman in the United States was for a ma chine. It was for the weavinc of straw with silk or thread, and MarvKies patented it in 1809. MOWING MACHINES AND LOCOMOTIVES. In I860 a New Jersey woman named Smith patented the mowing machine, and on the following year Sarah Jane Wheeler, doubtless left to take care of the horses by a lazy husband, invented a patent curry comb. Mary Jane Montgomery, of New Tx7 ' fl f York, has patented a great many machines, and in 1864 she made a good improvement in locomotive wheels. In '66 she got up a machine for punching corrugated metal, and she has, I am told, made a great deal of money out of her inventions. The sewing machine w?s invented by a man, but there were machines patented by women, and there.are 22 improvements ou the sewing machine made by womeD. These improvements cover every part of the machine, and some of them are valuable. The best flatirons in use to-day are made by y. f d y K "Cl9 Mary MolCt Patent Cooler. The inventor of this is Mrs. Johnson, who took out her patent for it in 1843, and who hasjmade considerable money out of it. A CORPSE PKESEBVEE. Woman are among the inventors of coffins nnd burial apparatus, and one of the most curious drawings in the Patent Office isMary E. Mott's corpse cooler. Mary has a patent rubber bag, which she fills with ice and lays on the stomach of the dead man or woman. She claims that if she can keep women, and among the machines patented by them I noto that Miranda Fort, of Georgia, has an improvement in plows. Jane E. Gilman, of Connecticut, has a com bination bureau and bathtub; Augusta M. Kodgers, ot" New York, has a patent stove for railroad cars, and Mary A. Holland, of New Jersey, has patented a burglar alarm. The ice cream freezer now in use was in vented by a Washington woman, and before she got out her patent every family stirred cts cream with a spoon instead of using the irank attachment while it was freezing, this cool that the deceased will be preserved as well as though he were packed in ice and she got a patent for it in 18C3. There is a warship here patented by Mary Montgomery, and a woman in Iowa has made an improvement on the machinery for cigars. Blanche Willis Howard has a patent bath-shoe and a music rack, and Dr. Mary Walker is turning the Patent Office upside down in getting out a new invention ot teaching spelling. Mary's patent looks like a Chinese puzzle and it is more curious than practical. Among other patents which I remember are jar-lifters, bag holders, fish-boners, raisin-seeders and a thousand and one curious appliances for household matters. The washing machines of the Patent Office take up a number of cases and the table utensils are numerous. Oue woman bas invented a mustache spoon. Her name is Ellen A. Mitchison, and her husband evidentlv had a mustache as big as that of "Jones, He Pays the Freight." The spoon has a shield over the top, and Ellen says that with this spoon soup can be con veyed to the mouth without danger of soil ing or disfiguring the mustache. It may be that Ellen's husband had a dyed mustache and that Ellen's favorite soup changed the color. At any rate she patented the spoon and her papers were given her in 1873. PATENTS FOE BABIES. Women have patented many things re lating to children, and a Calilornia woman invented a baby carriage which netted her over 550,000. I looked at the drawings to day of patent napkins, and in one case the invention was displayed in the picture of a child. Children's toys form some of the best paving patents that have ever been in vented, and the man who made the ball at no maue me oau at- string cleared $500, - ing negro baby gave tached to a little rubber 000 upon it. The dancin its inventor an annual income of $25,000, pigs-in-clover has made its patentee a for tune, and Pharoah's serpents, or these jointed wooden snakes, brought in mure than $50,000, and there are tops which have made fortunes. There is a little toy called the wheel of life which is said to have brought $500,000 into the inventor's vest pocket, and $10,000 a year is the income which is received from the common needle threader. Women have patented all kinds of toys. They have made improvements in baby chairs, and one of the funny patents is that of a Boston girl, consisting of a kind of tricycle for dolls, pa tented in 1879. The patent holds the doll up right and enables the child to push it around the room on wheels. The women inventors of Pennsylvania are many, and there is one bright woman who bas a barrel-hooping machine which brings her in $20,000 a year. This is Mary E. Beaseley, of Pennsylvajia, the original in ventor of the machine and the patentee of numerous improvements upon it. One of the machines, it is said, can put iron hoops on 1,200 barrels in a single day. OTHEIS PENNSYLVANIA WOMEN. Another Pennsylvania woman has a ma chine for making button holes upon flannels and other materials with worsted, and Mary E. Whitmer, of Philadelphia has an im provement in stereoscopes, and Joanna Gerlitz, of the same city, got out a patent on bitters in 1876. Emily Tassey, of Pitts burg, has a patent siphon, and Emma Heed, of Suranton, has made a patent corset. Carrie A. Monroe, ot Salt Lake City, patented an improved vapor bath in 1878, and the two Dietz girls of Oakland, Cat., are the inventors of a snow plow which at tached to the engine's cow catcher tosses the snow up two flumes nnd throws it on either side of the track. An Iowa woman, Mrs. Flora Grace, has a patent cooking ther mometer. Instead of marking summer heat, blood heat and freezing point, itmarksthe points at which meat is boiled, pies are cooked and bread is baked. I saw a patent paper shirt invented by Helen M. Reming ton, of Springfield, Mass. The paper shirt was made of the strongest tissue paper known to the trade as Kentucky bagging and the bosom was stiffened with white wax. It was claimed to be proof against perspiration and I am not able to say whether it was wash able or not. just now tne ouik oi inventions is in electricity and there is a number of women who have electric patents. There are 15,000 electrical inventions in the Patent Office and new ones are filed every day. There is in fact no branch of life upon which woman's mind is not now working and I judge that woman's mind is equal to that of man iu this field. Miss Grundy, Jr. HOW AMERICA WAS FOUND. Colombo! Set Soli for Dlnreo Polo's Golden City of Fiction. A lack of mercantile enterprise, says lecturer John Fiske, and an ignorance of geography in Europe in the eleventh cea turjprevented the discovery ot the Norse men from being followed up. It is not at all likely that Columbus ever heard of the discoveries by the Norsemen, and it has been well said that an ounce of Yinland would have been worth n pound of cosmog raphy to him. From Marco Polo's work, probably, he received his first ideas. When Columbus set sail iu 1492 his desti nation was Cepango. in Japan, the golden city of which Polo wrote. Although Co lumbus discovered the Venezuelan coast in 1498 he had no idea that it was a new conti nent, but died iu tho belief that it was a part of Asia. Six Huodred Hides In n Belt. A Philadelphia firm has taken an order ot the Louisiana Electric Light Co., at New Orleans, for 1G0 feet 72" (six feet wide) double belt, and a 550 feet 48' (four feet wide) double belt. These are the largest belts ever made, and it will require the hides of more than 600 head ot cattle to make them. K - THE POPULAR GIRL. Emma Y. Sheridan Insists She Must Have Sterling Qualities. BE SWEET TEMPERED AND FEASK. If Ion Are Witty iever Go Oat Without a Curb-Bit in lour Mouth. A LOT OP ISP0K1IATI0JT KtCESSAKI iwBrrrEr roit ins cisriTcitl A train wa just moving away from a way. station in New Jersey. It was a Chicago express, and in the sleeping car was a comic opera company from New York. Just be fore retiring there had been a little unpleas antness among the various members of the company, arising from the fact that the prima donna, whom, for sake of peace, we will call Mis3 Salamander, had insisted upon having a full section to herself, there by compelling the second comedian of the company to sleep on a sofa chair. There had been a very fierce battle, but in order to bridge the difficulty the second comedian, who was a gentle little man, de clared his willingness to sleep anywhere the prima donna would permit. And so Miss Salamander had her whole rection. Just as the train was moving, with soma speed, away from the station, and while the sonorous slumber of some stout people not ia the operatic business was keeping time to the tinkling of the lamps, there was a sud den jolt, a grinding sound, and then utter silence a3 the train stood still. "Good heavens, what have we struck?" cried a voice from oue end of the sleeper. And from the other end of the car the second comedian replied: "Miss Salaman der's cheek." But it was not a serious collision. In another moment the train was flying across country, and both Miss Salamander and the second comedian were slumbering sweet ly. I only write the anecdote as a preface to a few warning suggestions as to how a girl, in private life, may realize some of the fascinations of the stage's gentle heroines. MUST HAVE STERLING VIRTUES. To achieve popularity worth the nama you need a lot of sterling virtues. So go in training for them, if you have them not. The fancy of a season may make you the tashion, but only genuine merit and strict attention to your business can make you popular. It must ba said of you that you are good tempered. Your nature must show the sunny sweet ness that makes the best of things always. You must be reported to have a good word for everjone. Don't think you can meet this requirement by judiciously applied in sincerity, either. The only safe way is to get in the habit of bringing up some counter-balancing good point in a person of whom ill is spoken, or quote the unhappi ness their fault brings them, or the prudence of not judging people. In one of thesa ways you cud always find some good that you can say ot a person under discussion, and with sincerity. You must have a reputation for straight forward frankness. A thousand insinceri ties must be pruned from your speech Yon must learn to keep still when others gush or your straightforward frankness will bring yon to grief. Learn to be frank as far as you go, and not to go too far. A ready wit is esteemed a factor of popularity. It is a good thing to have, it can be cultivated, but be ware oi smartness and sarcasm and sharp sayings. People may admire your wit, but if they tear it, too, it won't help vour popu i , "" j"i m "i ou gires I you a thrust in public, you will gain mora I "? accepting the attack with gentle help- larity. When your pet rival friend gives wduw.. m.u uj caMuiuuiug jruur BU.il. JT IQ give back as as good she sends. DON'T REALIZE YOU'RE SOUGHT AITEK. You must be willing to talk to bores and stupid people and to give other women a chance. You must never appear to realiza that you are sought after or surrounded. You must appreciate people's attention and devotion as prompted by their kindness, not inspired by your attractiveness. You must be conscientious in all social duties and courtesies. As you secure your popularity don't iancy it will excuse you from formali ties. Never appear to make an effort. Peo ple who find you attractive will come of themselves. You will gain nothing by reaching for them. Be able to gracefully turn a compliment, and, when youdoso.letit be a tribute to the onewho prompts It, not a mere decorative achievement of your own. Have due re gard for conventions and proprieties. To be really popular, you must be a success with all in your circle. If the men say ot you that you are "ready for anything," your hostess and some o. the nicest women in your set are shy of you. That isn't popu larity. Your sporting friend Dick must find you entertaining, and your straight laced great aunt must be sure you are not going to shock her. Let your" regard for proprieties spring from respect for their wisdom, and vou won't make the mistake of pretending to submit to them, only to ba caugnt in violation ot their rules. SMOKING CIGARETTES. Don't steal off with Jack Dash to smoka a surreptitious cigarette in Mrs. Stiflenad's conservatory. It won't really help your popularity with Jack, and it will kill it with Mrs. S. if you are caught, and one usually is caught, you know! Smoke your cigarette iu your own pretty parlor, with Jack, If you like, in your own pretty, well ordered feminine way, making him feel it is all right, and that you would not be doing it if it were not. Still, cigarette popularity is difficult to achieve discreetly, difficult to maintain safely, and I deprecate it. Keep yourself well informed. Encourage people to talk to you of what interests them. Soyouwillgatherupthe varied lotof inform ation you will need. A bit about stocks, some political information, a touch of crewel work, a point or so on racing and who owns Maud S now, a few lights on the heathea, somethinc ot farming, the latest in church conventions, an idea of the qualities men admire in women, what constitutes a well served dinner, a bit of army life, the imme diate outlook in electric matters, the popu lar school of music, something of journalism, a recipe or so for punch, etc., etc. If you, really set about it you will soon find your self fairly equipped to interest any maa you meet, be he a dancing master, an atheist or a horse doctor. One last rule: The popnlar girl is liked by all, and shows no preferences. Emma V. Sheridan. WALKING DRESS FOE WOIIj-N. Thoy Blast bo Oat or Doors so Maeh Nowa dnjs That Reform In Needed. One thing must be devised ere long, and that is a comfortable and convenient walk ing dress. Women of our time are workers, and must be out in all kinds of weathers. Besides that, many who do not earn their own living have found what health and joy there are in a five or ten-mile walk. Men have business suits why may not women? Our pioneer mothers, who led active lives in the early day, wore gowns reaching to tho ankle. Women in trades and professions have now to do as much outdoor walking as tha pioneer mothers did, yet have to wear tha long trailing dress adapted to the parlor or carriage. In this garment, if a lady walks much or rapidly, in a few weeks' time her gown will be torn into rags and strings around the bottom, utterly worn out, entail ing much trouble and expense. It is lull of dust in dry weather and draggled with mud in wet weather, and in either case is not 4 pleasant object for a woman of delicate senses to contemplate or carry. How ca we have a reform? I iiirfaffilisffiif? -'- &&mmktmmm&MmJi.
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers