If
R . THE PITTSBUEG DISPATCH, SDWDAT, MAEOH 30, 1890. 20
& m " i ii '" i .
f . . . . lgjS 17 IP& tion. A of years has not sated me with mgjgjg fj (JONE.
n M.wfTmmsmm'o,.
WHEN SUMMER'S HEAT COMES.
The Counters Loaded Down With Goods of
Bewildering Designs nod Countless
Combinations of Colors That Will
Beamlfr Ibe Beautiful nnd Mnke
Everybody Comfortnbln Tbls Senson.
iwnirrsx tor the digfatcb.
jikm ij -,"--- is no rest lor
y the fashionably weary.
;j No sooner has the
Easter costnme been
decided upon, pur
chased, made up and
put out of sight than
the necessity forces it
self upon us of getting
cummer wear put through the same course,
before the arrival of the hammock-days,
when to get anything accomplished, whether
by thought or muscular effort, is literally to
earn it "by the sweat of the brow." That
this work may be effected before such time
is the season given by merchants for the un
seasonable display of such goods.
It is a rich feast for our eyes the fashion
caterer has- spread for us this season not
one of scraps, like a wash-day luncheon;
no cooked-over ideas but all delightfully
What They Will Look Like.
new and palatable to fashionable taste, and
in such bewildering designs and combina
tions of colors, and almost countless num
bers, that there is danger of the instinct of
choice becoming contused, and the difficulty
of making righteous selections augmented.
However, this embarrassment may be
obviated and shopping rendered less tire
some to both buyer and seller by getting a
knowledge of the goods obtainable, and
deriding upon one's own needs and
desires beforehand. Courteous salesmen
and honorable merchants are in a great de
gree the production of polite and agreeable
customers who know what they want before
they enter a .store and how to buy it with
satisfaction to themselves, which also gives
satisraction to merchant and employe. There
is a style in being well informed to goods
and in being fastidious in making selections
which gives no offense to the vendor of
goods, but rather stimulates him to furnish
such a customer with the best in bis line for
the price asked. Tiiere is no better school
in which to cultivate the noblesse oblige,
which means so much in French and no less
in English, than in a store, whether before
or behind the counter.
PERFECT COriES OF BETTER GOODS.
Ginghams, sateens, batistes, chambergs
and percales vie with each other for popular
preference, and are such perfect copies of
their silk and woolen relatives, that the dif
ference is scarcely perceptible upon first no
tice. In sateens we have reproduced the
pretty flower, leaf, polka dot and other de
signs commonly seen in India and foulard
silks and in challies; and in lace effects
wbite on colored grounds these for foot
trimming and the style ot makeup not dif
fering from the new suitings which they so
perfectly imitate in colors and in this par
ticular design.
Iu the Scotch ginghams we have the tar
tan plaids of all the clans found in silk or
in wool, perfectly copied. For these I
should think license would be issued for
making them upas picturesquely as desired,
for the oung particularly, and really it
would seem this gaily colored plaid in "full
suits is only appropriate for those in their
first bloom. For the rest of us there are
fancy plaids in large or in smaller bars and
in stripes of all widths, in s-ift, delicate,
neutral tints, quite restful to the eye sur
feited with high colors. Some of these have
several colors blended; for instance, mauve,
rose-pink and lavender, or heliotrope, beige
and old rose. One charming stripe in vieux
rose and gobelin blue, the stripes alternat
ing and two inches each in width, is dis
tinctly remembered. These make up effec
tively when combined with any color rcpre
sented in the stripes. Side hand ginghams
come in large checks on plain ground. One
pretty piece had the band or border checked
in yellow and white on blue ground. And
again these same have graduated stripes in
white on colored ground.
ONE OF THE PRETTIEST.
Bourette gingham is one of the prettiest
novelties displayed. These have irregular
blocks-broken bars would be a plainer
term in very rough-knotted threads thrown
up in shot work over the fabric. The most
effective of the bourettes have the shot work
in black and white over plain colors. These
are to be had in all of the new beige, old
rose, edison. rcsed , etc, shades. Black, in
stripes all black, or edging colored stripes,
all of which have sateen surface, is a new
feature in ginghams. These stripes are
sometimes seen on the selvedge only, to be
used for trimming and again spaced all over
the plain ground with flowers in chine
patterns distributed between stripes a la
pompadour. Even the Arabesque designs
are reproduced iu the new rinchams. One
pattern of gobelin blue and vieux rose in
brocaded stripes two inches wide, is dis
tinctly remembered out of the -haos of colors
and designs.
In the makeup of wash material the pres
ent season, the popular idea seems to be to
cut all plaids and stripes on the bias, neces
sitated no doubt by the dartless waist, which
is to have no showing of buttons
or other fastening and to fit so snugly as
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few
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to be suggestive of a smelting
process having been resorted to, in order to
obtain the poured-in-while-hot-appearance.
This to the uninitiated appears" a difficult
matter but like everything else its easy
when you know how. The fit, if the gar
ment is dependent on the lining, which is
seamed, darted and buttoned just like any
other dress waist, the trick being in success
fully stretching the bias material (and you
see this could not be accomplished with
straight goods) across this lining from side to
side and secreting the fastenings on the
shoulders and under the arms. See? AH
very well for the full, well-rounded figure,
but how about those to whom dame nature
has donated more grace and less flesh! I
hear you inquire. Well for all such, Sara
Bernhardt, who has been called the
rATEON SAINT OF THIN WOMEN,
has fixed as fashions in the loose and flow
ing that will exist and be standard until all
the spirituelle have been embonpoint, and
which styles are as adaptable to wash goods
as to silks and laces. The large cool
sleeves, surplice waist, the folds held in
place at the belt line by one of the many
useful buckles, which are introduced ex
pressly for this style and which come curved
like a corset steel to fit the body, and
draperies the most easily laundried, will
always be a sensible and pretty style for all
material known as "wash goods."
Mouslin, all over embroidered, is her
alded as a trimming for solid-colored ging
hams and percales used upon jacket fronts
sometimes the entire front being made of
the embroiderv lor collars or vokes and
cuffs, and introduced upon the skirt in pan
nels after the manner of the accompanying
illustration. Wide Vandykes of this white
embroidery will be inserted straight across
the front of pointed bodices in vote fashion.
The vandyked footband of the new woolen
suitings is reproduced in the new ginghams
in thejsame Venetian and Russian and point
du genes effects. Dealers say batiste was
never so fine or exquisitely colored as the
present season. Tne choicest of these have
wide hem-stitched ecru-colored bauds with
pointed designs above this, also in ecru, the
points extending up over the delicate ame
thyst, old pink, gobelin blue or other plain
color. These, like the wool suitings, have
the same design on opposite selvedge nar
rowed to serve as garniture lor the waist
THE BOEDER IDEA
is also carried out ou the all-white goods.
Some times a little delicate coloring is in
troduced as a tinv spray beading, or, in an
all-over shower ot" flowers in natural tints
the colors only border deep. In white em
broidered mnslins we note the absence of all
coarse open work and a close imitation of
the fine French handworK, which is a long
step toward greater refinement in this line.
For trimming wash material of all kinds,
open-patterned gimps and passamenteries 01
cords; some made all white and others with
colored cords to match plain color, to be
trimmed, are shown. This trimming comes
from an inch to several iuches in width, and
in most of the new pointed designs.
"While it is not possible to enumerate
within the limits ot an article like this, all
that is new and "too-lovely-for-anything,"
enough has been mentioned to raise the
question whether we shall not he in the
same plight with the other donkey who
stood untethercd among several ricks of
hay and starved to death because he wanted
all and couldn't make up his mind which
one to begin on. Thanks are due to Messrs.
Boggs & Buhl. JIec.
WOMEN IS JOURNALISM.
Margaret E. Sanesier bays They Will Never
supersede Men, But in Certain Lines of
Worn: Can Snrceed Admirably Their
Treatment by the Men.
r WRITTEN FOE THE DISPATCH.
In her cozy nook in the very heart of the
great Harper establishment, surrounded by
the whir of bookmaeing machinery, the
noise of which penetrates but does not seem
to permeate the quiet of her sanctum, sits
daily at her cditotial desk Mrs. Margaret E.
Sangster, the controlling mind of that
famous periodical, Harper's Bazar. Her
personality, physical and mental, is well
known. Modest as she is, Mrs. Sangster
has not been able to prevent the strengtii
and sweetness of her'character from shouins
far outside the circle which comes into
actual contact with it; her admirers arc the
thousauds who read her u things, herfrieudt
the public throughout the land.
It was with rather a denrecatorv shake of
the head that Mrs.Sangster greeted a visitor
recently, who went to her asking an opinion
upon the subject of "Women in Journal
ism." "Who are some of the women earliest
prominent in this field?" repeated Mrs.
Sangster. "That stronsr and brilliant pioneer
in the work, Mrs. Swisshelm, is, of course,
the uinie which first suzzests itself. Bnt
r now her followers are legion. The reasons
lor tnis are thegreater interest in home dec
oration, the wider scope of women's lives,
and the many new avenues of self-support
open to her sex. The fashions, the home
economies, the care of babies, the educa
tion of the older children, the ethics of daily
life, social customs, etiquette, amusements
and other topics which equally touch life at
the fountain head of the home, enlist
woman b attention.
THE FIELD HAS WIDENED.
"Where 40 years ago a mother's magazine,
pure indeed, but intensely narrow and con
servative, monopolized the field, we have
bright housekeeping and borne matin;
periodicals, weekly and monthly, which are
as various in their contents as the homes to
which they go and which carry help,
advice, sympathy, and a note of cheer
wherever the swift mails carry them. To
this department of journalism, as legitimate
and as honorable as any other, the edu
cated woman brings her tact, her culture, her
conscience and her brain. You will rarely
find that the woman who writas regards her
occupation, though it may entail hard, al
most unremitting labor, with other than
enthusiasm. There is a fascination about
seeing one's ideas and opinions set out in
type that does not wear away with repeti-
If 1l
Airs. Margaret E. Sangster.
tion. A score ot years has not sated me with
the experience.
"Of women reporters it is scarcely fair for
me to speak; I know only by hearsay of
their branch of the work; it is different in
so many respects from tho department in
which I have always labored that I am not
competent authority in the matter. I, know
a numberof lovely women who have made a
beginning in this way, and as many, too,
who are still lollowinir it. Their large
measure of success indicates the aptitude of
women for this phase of newspaper enter
prise. I think, however, that women like
to get out of general reporting as soon as
possible. It is arduous work and ap
proaches more nearly the distasteful, so some
of my friends have told me, than any other
branch of journalistic effort.
COURTESIES OF THE OFFICES.
"Concerning the co-working of the sexes
in journalism," continued Mrs Sangstcr in
reply to lurther questioning, "ray experi
enced that women have absolutely nothing
to complain of concerning their treatment
by their brother laborers. I do not know
that they have done so, although a lady not
lone ago did express to me a little querul
ously, in speaking of a visit to a publication
office during its busiest time, that she 'was
cot even offered a chair.' A woman should
not ask too much. A courteous civility
even under the greatest pressure ot work
she will always get, and more ought not to
be insisted upon. One docs not expect the
gallantry of the drawing room in the rush
of peremptory and absorbing labor any
more than one looks for white and gold cab
inets in the appointments of the business
office."
"Something of the future of woman's pur
suits of a journalistic calling?" continued
Mrs. Sangster; "I am disinclined to think
that she will ever supersede man in any very
perceptible degree. Women have published
as well as edited newspapers and periodi
cals, but in such exceptional and rarely re
curring instances as to rather point the asser
tion that women cannot compete with men
in this particular than to serve as a pre
cedent. LACKS BUSINESS INSTINCTS.
"Her executive ability is sufficient I
think the average woman has more of that
than the average man but she has not the
inherent business instincts and natural
business habits that geueratious of system
atic workers have developed in her brother
laborer.
"The woman journalist must be systematic,
though she cannot be the slave of system.
She must grasp details, make quick decis
ions and learn how to say no, in every possi
ble inflection. She must be quiet-maunered
and self-controlled, not losing her temper
when tilings go wrong.
"She will (eel, if she be born a journalist
and journalists, like poets, are born, not
made the pulse of her public opinion. She
will seize by intuition the topics which are
vita!, but all the while through the tumult
and turmoil of the hour she will hear the
far off booming ot the bells ot eternity and
realize that her work is not for to-day nor
to-morrow onlv, but forever."
M. H. Welch.
MAKING HOME BKAUTIFUL.
A Lamp Slat That is Very Handsome and
Very Easily Made.
SWBITTBN TOR THE DISPATCH.!
Now that lamps are so freely used, there
seems to be au equal demand for mats which
serve the double purpose of ornamenting
and protecting the table upon which they
rest. When to be used upon a dining table
which is lighted by one of the lofty "ban
quet lamps," the mat is made of material
that does not conflict with the whiteness
of the napery. If for a parlor or sitting
room table, or little stand, the lamp
mat may be of velvet, satin or plush.
The mat illustrated is made of green satin,
with an interlining of cardboard and back
ot green canton flannel. The border, which
projects beyond the square of cardboard, is
made ot maple leaves, ot which the dark
ones are worked on the satin. The light
ones are made of green velvet of a lighter
shade. They are buttonholed on the edge
with dark green embroidery silk. The rein
ing is done in Kensington stitch with the
same silk. The satin leaves which appear
to underlie the others are edged with a but
tonholing of light creen silk and filled with
lace or honeycomb stitch. The points of all
the leaves arc cut out after the edge is
worked.
An easily made lamp mat and one that is
not at all expensive is a circle of dark felt,
stiffened with cardboard and bordered with
.t thick roll of red yarn; over the roll is a
covering of knitted tinsel. It is knitted
loosely, on rather large wooden needles, in
the plain stitch used for making garters or
suspenders. The knitted strip is to be
sewed over the yarn roll very loosely. No
one seeing this border, unless familiar with
the tinsel used in this way, would imagine
how it was made.
Mhs. McC. Hungerford.
WHAT WOMEN ARE DOING.
Gossip and Information Prepared by Eliza
Archnrri Conner.
twnlTTKN FOR THE DISPATCH.!
Jennie June is agitating on the co operative
housekeeping idea.
I have beard of a prettv and fashionable
jrlrl who is so ncid in church observances that
during Lent sno will only flirt with the pastor.
What a delightful world to liro in it will be
when we women ccaso to criticise each other
and learn instead to correct our own faults. Let
us try it awhile.
Sins. Clara Simpson, ot Vancouver, is
writing a botany especially adapted to the flora
of tho State of Washington, liach State ought
to have a botany ot its on.
One woman, Mrs. Maria Beagley, of Phila
delphia, has invented something that is really
worth while. It is a machine to do coopers'
work, and turns out hundreds of barrels a day.
TnE annual Lenten spectacle of learned doc
tors of divinity thundering away at the poor
women sinners is on again in full blast. Why
can tby not rivc us a rest and thunder away at
the men awhile, for once?
It would be both interesting and instructive
if ladles' parliamentary classes and literary
clubs would take up the pmnts at issue be
tween Speaker Heed and cx-Spuaker Carllsle.or
the United States House of Itepresentativcs.
study both sides of the question carefully and
discuss it at their meetings. Such a discussion
f would give them much information about par
liamentary usage.
IT is pleasant to notice how many names of
women newspaper correspondents appear.
Women seem to make especially good corre
spondent", for their contributions are sprightly
and readable. If they penetrated more thor
oughly the heart of leading topics of the time
and acquired more fullness of information
their work, much o! it, would stand for a model
or journalistic correspondence.
A itlFLEWOitEN's club has been formed in
Bermuda, and tho wife of the Governor of the
island is President of it. The ladies have a
range of their own far enough from civilized
habitations for the shots not to hit hens or bus
bands. There they bang away at their own
sweet will. They have already become excel
lent marksmen at 100 yards distance, showing
that, though a woman may not be able to drive
a nail, she can hit a mark.
Dexvkr, Col., has an incorporated stock
company of women who have undertaken the
development of a summer resort at Diana Park,
10 miles from that city. It is de-igned especial
ly lor tho comfort of women, children
and families. Ground suitable for tents
or cottages may be leased or bought of the
managers. Adjoining the resort will also be
lor tale ground in plots of from three to five
acres. These are designed for gardening,
rrnlts bee keenintr. nonltrv raislncr. etc These
small farms will be sold to women who defire
to earn their living at outdoor employments.
Tho Winter's Rigors Have Played
Havoc With the Gentler Sex.
PROCESSES
BUILDING
Shirley Dare Sngsests the Need of Fires
'and Proper Underwear.
HINTS REGARDING FOOD PRODUCTS
IWMTTEN FOB TUE DISPATCH.
The page from which I have just risen, in
a prose poem exquisitely carried out in
Hawthorne's vein, has these words: "And
what or all things that monuments arc
built in memory of, is most loved and soon
est forgotten? Is it not a beautiful woman?
Who loves her for the beauty she once pos
sessed? Is there in all history a figure so
lonely and despised as that of the woman
who, once the most beautiful in the world,
crept back into her native land a withered
being?"
It is true. Yet against this decree of age
and ugliness should not women set them
selves with all the skill their fertile brains
furnish? The hand has been put back
nearly 20 years on the dial of human life,
which lasts till the sixties, where at the be
ginning of the century it was doomed to fail
at 40. Men have forced back death; should
not women outwit age and decay? These
are questions to be repeated and pressed
upon the consideration.
Women look less beautiful than usual
this spring. Many of tbem have had a sore
struggle with the winter epidemic, whose
after-effects on those of sensitive physique
are as tedious as the sequela; of scarlet fever
or typhoid, from which a patient cannot
call himself recovered under a year. It
will take many days basking in the warm
sunshine, many days breathing the deep free
winds which stir the blood, and many nights
of sound sleep to restore the tone to un
strung nerves. If the work is half done, as
it usually is, the penalty will be visible in
sallow laces, lackluster eyes and drooping
forms. Women must perforce learn wisdom.
FEY FROM THE CLUES.
Not a few will find themselves forced to
simplify their social work and drop much of
tne routine, useless duty which has absorbed
them. The woman who is a member of 11
clubs, political, literary and charitable, will
be obliged to ignore them so long that it is
possible she may find existence more en
durable without than with tlieui. For the
mere routine of these woman's clubs makes
an enormous waste ot time. As to the glit
tering generality ot Shakespeare and liter
ary clubs, their usefulness is summed up by
a bright young member, who writes that "a
set of old hens cet together and pick other
people to pieces," and another speaks of
them as "gossip served on trays with Shakes
peareor Browning to float on the teacups."
So if you mourn that your privileges arc
cut off, dear madam, by want of strength,
rest consoled tbut the loss is cot irreparable,
either to the club or to you. The only work
worth mentioning in the world, the only
kind that lasts and tells is individual work,
whether of brain or hand. One can't object
to gossip on any reasonable ground indeed
has not Dr. Deems recently christened it
with much insight "the humanities of con
versation?" That is when it is human and
not fiendish, for there is a human interest in
other people', affairs, and an inhuman one.
But gossip weakens literature past tolera
tion. Perhaps this is the reason why the
most prominent woman's club in the coun
try makes the melancholy confession in its
yearly report that it has "to depend for in
terest" on the efforts of six of its members,
the rest being content with taking no part
at all in its discussions. Now, a man's club
which depended on halt a dozen members
would turn up its toed and die, out of sheer
decency.
BY TIIEIE EIGHT NAMES.
If you want an excuse for having a good
time, christen your gathering gossip club or
the scandalmongcry and try to live up to it.
.mere won t oe any more harm for the ad
mission. Calling things by their right
names lets a flood of light upon their de
signs sometimes, and a club known as the
Old Cats or tha Backbiters' Own would
probably have as little of their name-vices
as is consistent with feminine nature. A
good, lively club of this kind might be a re
source for tired housemothers, who need
chat and fun, which nobody thinks of sun
plying them. People who work hard and
feel worn out don't want serious topics or
anything like study for a while. They may
learn jnst as much in a light way and re
member it longer. But strike off the clubs
and coteries from your list as non-essentials
until you recover the strength of three
women.
Buy spring dress ready made, rather than
bother with dressmakers, proverbially the
most perfidious of their sex, and the worst
instructed of any craftswomen in the cities
and towns. Don't undertake to attend all the
Lent services or get up birthday parties or
golden weddings or anything which re
quires outlay ot nerve. Friends will be sure
to say, "I should think she might be able to
do just this and that," or they doubtless
will go a step further aud say, "She might
if she wantel to!" But you must not mind
them. Life is too dear a possession to be
played with, and you only know you have
your strength when you don't spend it.
PROPER SPEING UNDERWEAR.
Everv woman who values her health this
chilly stormy spring, true breeder of typhoid
pneumonia, should go into silk underwear,
vests, chemiserie, skirts and nightgowns,
if she has to economize on her dresses to pro
vide them. Neuralgia and rheumatism are
flying round, fell brood O' the winter scourge
and no cost can be considered dear which
wards them off. Flannel has not the same
warmth or electric action on the skin. A
featherweight of a silk garment has more
warmth thau a thick wool one, with the ad
vantage of lightness. The knickerbockers of
black silk in fashion are commendable when
spriug winds are abroad. At a sudden reel
of wind at a street corner, a glimpse ot trim
black silk stockins and rose embroidered
black silk 'utiles has far less the effect of an
expose than a fleeting show of white gar
ments. And the pink and blue slumber
robes of India silk do so kindly keep off the
pains in the shoulder next the crevice of the
bedclothes when the tail ot a cyclone is
showing how full of drafts a $4,000 a year
house can be.
Silk underwear doesn't mean combination
suits in this instance, nor those nondescript
attachments called "leglettes" by women
with one lobe to their hi ain. As one bril
liant woman siys (whom you would all
know if I gave her away): "I wouldn't be
found dead with 'cm on!" Kate Field tells
a witty and wicked story about an old
woman up in Vermont, whose only amuse
ment was the villace lecture course every
season, which led off with Colonel Ingersoli
one week and Mrs. Jenness Miller the next,
when the old lady came home thunder
struck. "No everlasting torment and no chemise!
What was the world coming to! For her
part, if both were to be done away with, she
didn't waut to live in it any longer."
MUST KEEP UP THE TIRES.
If you love life and your families don't
stint fires this spring, it you have to Keep
them mornings till the middle of June.
This season will decide mauy families to go
into homes of their own where they can have
a fire at pleasure, when the hotels have
shut ofi steam, and the boarding houses
have put the furnace out. They suffer, these
poor rich people, in their high-priced hotels
lor the simple comforts of life. It gives a
pang to think how an ailing iriend used to
come languitj and blue into the office down
town for warmth, alter shivering for hours
iu liis rooms at the expensive hotel, because
the steam was turned off for the season, and
no nrovision made for tires in the room. He
took his death blow then. Somehow, for
showy lite, his many thousands of incomf
could not bring him the comrort of an Irish
woman's tenement room.
An invention was shown in New York
city last spring which meets the wants of
households better thau any other warming
apparatus. Perhaps its excellence is the
very reason why it was hustled out of the
way, so that its present address cannot be
found. It would cot be the first invention
so useful it had to be killed for fear of its
superseding everything else of the kind. A
sheet iron tank holding several gallons'of
kerosene was fixed on tho wall with a quar
ter inch pipe leading to a firebox of porous
clay or stone, through which the oil filtered,
filling the box with flame. Any more com
plete economy of fuel is not to be found, and
the ease with which it was regulated was a
great recommendation. The room once
warm with a quick fire, the oil could be
turned off to the merest dribble sufficient,
with slight flame, to keep the house at an
even warmth all day or night without at
tention. NO EXTRA INSURANCE.
It was said to be so safe that the insur
ance companies charged no extra risk for it,
and one gallon of oil was enough to keep a
15 foot room warm for 24 hours. I want to
know wnat has become nf this invention.
Just such a method is needed to heat houses
in the uncertain seasons when children and
women suffer mild miseries or cot so mild,
for want of dry warm air.
It is stern truth that no one can judge of
the warmth necessary for another's system
differing so widely. I have enjoyed a full
experience of la grippe which draws heavily
ou the reserve of force, and will for some
time to come, because a hot-tempered wom
an resolved that her boarders needed co
more heat than she saw fit to give tbem, and
two authors, bent on serious work, shivered
three days over their writing last December
and came down with this unknown malady,
which takes ten years out of life, a story
which hundreds of others can duplicate. So,
pleasant readers, whose kindly messages
come day by day, if your letters and ques
tions are not answered, it is because for
months it has seemed easier to lie down and
pass out of existence than to" do anything
else. That is the way the epidemic leaves
you. One galvanizes oneself to work un
avoidable, and then drops into inertness of
body and soul.
THE BEST OF FOODS.
People must take to eating food which has
the fullest nourishment. The new process
has nearly ground and bolted the life out ot
flour, so "that bread, the staff of life, is
slighter than a wheat straw. Anew com
pany in Philadelphia has started the busi
ness of making perfectly nutritious bread
without the yeast or powders, which is a
surprise to everyone who eats it. Two of
their muffins with a cup of coffee make more
of a working breakfast than a whole meal
beside. The company furnishes a dozen
forms of these cakes.m'ade from whole wheat
meal mixed with water and salt, and baked
by steam, the application of quick heat rais
ing them perfectly.
The brown sweet little "breads" are gain
ing in favor witji all brain workers who try
them. One physician well-known in New
York, has five dozen sent by express each
Monday for his supply. An excellence of
the new process is that the bread is as good
a week alter baking as the day it is baked.
It feeds the nerves, it satisfies the appetite,
the eyes grow brighter for using it, the com
plexion clearer, the color richer. Wheat
supplies a nearly complete food or the foun
dation for it, with a small amount of the
best meats and fruits and vegetables in
variety. Sedentary women, as a rule, eat
far too much meat. It should be taken hot
and well served at one meal, with fish, broth.
salad or croquettes at another, but certainly
omitted at the third meal. Less work for
the digestion means " more vigor lor the
brain.
ANOTHER GOOD FOOD.
Where even the steam baked cakes are a
tax on the system, a lighter food is the stale
muffins dried in the great oven and pounded
into a coarse meal, very nourishing, crisp
and nice to take. Two or three tablespoon
fuls of this with a cup of broth or grape
juice furnishes a repast on which one can do
more brainwork than on an ordinary dinner.
It is really an ideal food and the wonder of
being suddenly free from the malaise which
attends common food inclines one to turn
anchorite and live on it at once. Most
healthful foods pass for very much more
than they are worth, but here is a perfectly
wholesome bread, prepared in the simplest
way from the best material, and is
what fcod ought always to be. There
is precious little self-denial in going
without headache, dullness, languor
and exchanging (these for a light frame
and spirits, clear eyes and clearer head. So
if the epidemic has left you feeling only
half yourself, the first thing is to build up
the ruins bv supplying good nutrition,
suited to weakened powers. Then the black
line under the eyes will disappear, smooth,
fresh cheeks will replace gaunt, sallow out
lines, while mental improvement keeps pace
with the outward.
Lastly, keep in the sun and pure air, and
if you cannot go out for it, let sun and air
come to you. Choose the sunny window for
your work, and keep the room ventilated,
opening windows every hour for a few miu
utes. Best with lounge or bed drawn into
the sunshine, an hour of which is better
than many grains of quinine for giving
strength. Not an hour of the priceless sun
should be wasted between this and July, by
those who would undj the ravages of dis
ease. Shirley Dare.
WHEN NIAGARA KAN DRY.
Ico Dntnmed the River and No Water Gat
Through Iho Falls.
A New York pioneer says in the St. Louis
Globe-Democrat that on March 29, 1848 for
a few hour! scarce any water passed over
Niagara Falls. The winter baa been an
extraordinarily severe one.and ice of.unusu
al thickness had been formed on Lake Erie.
The warm spring rains had the effect of
loosening the congealed mass, and during
the day mentioned a stiff east wind drove
the ice far up into the lake. About sun
down the wind suddenly changed and blew
a heavy gale from the west. This turned
the ice in its course, bringing it down to the
mouth of the Niagara river and piling it up
iu a solid mass.
The force of it was so great that soon the
ontlet of Lake Erie was so completely
choked up, that little or no water could
pass. Soon all the water below the barrier
had passed over the lalls, and when the in
habitants awoke the next morning a weird
spectacle met their gaze. The roaring,
tumbling rapids above the falls were almost
obliterated, and nothing but the cold
black rock were visible everywhere. Crowds
of spectators, witnessed this sight and the
banks on either side of the river were lined
with people all day long until the ice in the
lake was released from its position, and the
wall ot the waters returned to their usual
course.
GIKLS IN 0DR COLLEGES.
Al.ndVs Gift to JoIiub Hopkins Drlnsa Out
n Severe Comment.
The Johns Hopkins University at Balti
more has celebrated its fourteenth anniver
sary. In his address on the occasion. Presi
dent Kemsen announced the establishment of
a new professorship, the "Caroline Donovan
Chair." Now, I don't know who Caroline
Donovan was, writes Elizabeth Archard
Conner, bnt she would have been in much
better business if she had given her money to
some college that admits her own sex.
Women have been for years kuockiugattbe
doors of Johns Hopkins, begging tor admis
sion, but they have invariably been refused,
and that not always Courteously.
A brilliant young girl friend of mine
some years ago used all her efforts to be
allowed to take the course in chemistry,
which at that time was a superior one. She
was a college graduate, and admirably fitted
to do honor to Johns Hopkins. But there
was no chance at all lor her, and my young
friend was obliged, at much expense, to
cross the ocean to monarchical England and
enter the scientific classes of the University
of London, whose trustees do not consider
it too high and mighty to admit women
students. In her own ire'e country there was
no high class chemical school that would
admit this talented American girl.
WOMEN'S INTENTIONS.
Eecord of tho American Female Brain
in the Patent Office,
THE COTTON GLN A WOMAN'S IDEA.
Everything- From Babies' Toys to Slowing
Machines and War Teasels.
A LIST OP INTERESTING NOVELTIES
COr.HESrONDENCE OP THE DISPATCn.l
Washington, March 29.
KE American girl of
to-day has her seven
leagued boots on. She
is walking at tele
graphic Speed into
every department of
American indnstrv.
and we have at Wash
ington several women
lawyers and half a
dozen female doctors of
more than ordinary
reputation. There are
something like 5,000
Muttache Spoon. . bright girls working in
the departments, and there is hardly a law
yer's office nor a claimant's den in the city
which has not its women typewriters. Tnere
are one or two women engaged in the real
estate business here who are buying and
selling and getting gain, and the activity of
the great female brain the country over is
shown every week in the inventions which
they file at the Patent Office.
Women are rapidly coming to the front as
inventors, and there is no reason to believe
that our sex cannot get up any new thing
Socking Chair inn Attachment.
from corsets to locomotives as well as those
mechanics who are supposed to be made of
sterner stuff. Already with the whole mas
culine world sneering at ns, we have pro
duced about one-tenth of the patents grant
ed since the beginning of the Government,
and many of the inventions which have
made fortunes for men have been invented
by their wives, their sisters or their lady
friends. Eli Whitney gets the credit of the
cotton gin and the industrial world to-day
worships his shade. Yet it was the widow
of General Green at whose house Whitney
was visiting, who gave him the idea, and he
made bis model under her supervision. It
was she who substituted wire teeth for wood
en pegs, and it was her idea to revolutionize
the cotton trade.
SOME HISTORICAL INVENTIONS.
The first straw bonnet made in the United
States was turned out by Betsy Metcalf, of
Providence. R. L. in 1T98. and now Mam.
cbusetts has tens of thousands of women in
the bonnet business, and she turns out her
tens of millions of straw hats every year.
It was a woman who first invented the mak
ing of pillow lace, and an Italian girl named
Isabella Cunio produced one of the first en
gravings from wood. A French woman in
vented the manikin which has done so
much for dressmaking and physiology, and
the finest pyramid that was ever made in old
Egypt was after the design of Nitocris, the
Egyptian Queen. Another Queen of Egypt
designed the obelisks, and it was a woman's
brain which planned the hanging gardens of
xsaoyion.
Semiramis, the Queen of Persia, invented
a gown which was adopted by the Median
aud Persian kings as an insignia of royalty,
and this was the gown which Haman hoped
that Ahasuerus would put upon him when
he sat at the gate and thought that he was
the one whom the King delighted to honor.
He got a rope instead and the saying "Hung
as high as Haman" has gone down into
history. The Semiramisgown is still known
in the East and there are in the patent office
to-day many inventions of women's apparel
patented by women.
There are in tho model room enough cor
sets to hold the frames of all the Washing
ton society belles and to give each one an
article ot different material made in a differ
ent shape. There are enough patent bosom
pads to cushion the seats ot both Houses ot
Congress, and the designs for curious skirts
and dresses, it they 'were pasted together,
would carpet a county.
MEN INVENT WOMEN'S CLOTHES.
There is enough wire in the patents for
bustles to make springs for every bed in
Vice President Morton's big flat I noted
Patent Baby Dreu.
some corsets perforated with holes like a
patent chair seat, and made of wbite parch
ment molded into shape. The advantages
claimed for them were their ventilating
qualities, and Annie S. McLean has made
a combined shoulder brace, corset and
bosom pad in one. Catharine O'Hara has
invented about20 different patents forcrino
line, and Catharine Griswold patented a
combination corset and shoulder brace, out
of which she has made a lot ot money. The
majority of patents for women's clothes,
however, are granted to men, and there are
thousands of men to-day who do nothing
else but scheme and scheme to invent some
thing which will add to the beauty or tickle
the tastes of women.
The inventions of women coyer all
branches of life, and, strange to say. quite,
as many patents are granted to them for im
proved machinery as for articles of women's
wear. As far back as 1828 Elizabeth H.
Buckley patented a sheet-iron shovel, and
the first submarine telescope and lamp in
.vented in this country was patented by
Sarah P. Mather in 1845. By this telescope
the bottom of a ship cau be seen, wrecks can
be inspected and torpedoes sighted in time
of war. The model for it is one of the finest
in the Patent Office. It is made of brass,
and one part of it is a tube nearly one foot
in diameter. The first patent granted to a
woman in the United States was for a ma
chine. It was for the weavinc of straw
with silk or thread, and MarvKies patented
it in 1809.
MOWING MACHINES AND LOCOMOTIVES.
In I860 a New Jersey woman named
Smith patented the mowing machine, and
on the following year Sarah Jane Wheeler,
doubtless left to take care of the horses by a
lazy husband, invented a patent curry
comb. Mary Jane Montgomery, of New
Tx7
' fl f
York, has patented a great many machines,
and in 1864 she made a good improvement
in locomotive wheels. In '66 she got up a
machine for punching corrugated metal, and
she has, I am told, made a great deal of
money out of her inventions.
The sewing machine w?s invented by a
man, but there were machines patented by
women, and there.are 22 improvements ou
the sewing machine made by womeD. These
improvements cover every part of the
machine, and some of them are valuable.
The best flatirons in use to-day are made by
y. f d y
K
"Cl9
Mary MolCt Patent Cooler.
The inventor of this is Mrs. Johnson, who
took out her patent for it in 1843, and who
hasjmade considerable money out of it.
A CORPSE PKESEBVEE.
Woman are among the inventors of
coffins nnd burial apparatus, and one of the
most curious drawings in the Patent Office
isMary E. Mott's corpse cooler. Mary has
a patent rubber bag, which she fills with
ice and lays on the stomach of the dead man
or woman. She claims that if she can keep
women, and among the machines patented
by them I noto that Miranda Fort, of
Georgia, has an improvement in plows.
Jane E. Gilman, of Connecticut, has a com
bination bureau and bathtub; Augusta M.
Kodgers, ot" New York, has a patent stove
for railroad cars, and Mary A. Holland, of
New Jersey, has patented a burglar alarm.
The ice cream freezer now in use was in
vented by a Washington woman, and before
she got out her patent every family stirred
cts cream with a spoon instead of using the
irank attachment while it was freezing,
this cool that the deceased will be preserved
as well as though he were packed in ice and
she got a patent for it in 18C3.
There is a warship here patented by Mary
Montgomery, and a woman in Iowa has
made an improvement on the machinery for
cigars. Blanche Willis Howard has a
patent bath-shoe and a music rack, and Dr.
Mary Walker is turning the Patent Office
upside down in getting out a new invention
ot teaching spelling. Mary's patent looks
like a Chinese puzzle and it is more curious
than practical. Among other patents
which I remember are jar-lifters, bag
holders, fish-boners, raisin-seeders and a
thousand and one curious appliances for
household matters. The washing machines
of the Patent Office take up a number of
cases and the table utensils are numerous.
Oue woman bas invented a mustache spoon.
Her name is Ellen A. Mitchison, and her
husband evidentlv had a mustache as big as
that of "Jones, He Pays the Freight." The
spoon has a shield over the top, and Ellen
says that with this spoon soup can be con
veyed to the mouth without danger of soil
ing or disfiguring the mustache. It may be
that Ellen's husband had a dyed mustache
and that Ellen's favorite soup changed the
color. At any rate she patented the spoon
and her papers were given her in 1873.
PATENTS FOE BABIES.
Women have patented many things re
lating to children, and a Calilornia woman
invented a baby carriage which netted her
over 550,000. I looked at the drawings to
day of patent napkins, and in one case the
invention was displayed in the picture of a
child. Children's toys form some of the
best paving patents that have ever been in
vented, and the man who made the ball at
no maue me oau at-
string cleared $500, -
ing negro baby gave
tached to a little rubber
000 upon it. The dancin
its inventor an annual income of $25,000,
pigs-in-clover has made its patentee a for
tune, and Pharoah's serpents, or these
jointed wooden snakes, brought in mure
than $50,000, and there are tops which have
made fortunes.
There is a little toy called the wheel of
life which is said to have brought $500,000
into the inventor's vest pocket, and $10,000
a year is the income which is received from
the common needle threader. Women have
patented all kinds of toys. They have made
improvements in baby chairs, and one of
the funny patents is that of a Boston girl,
consisting of a kind of tricycle for dolls, pa
tented in 1879. The patent holds the doll up
right and enables the child to push it around
the room on wheels.
The women inventors of Pennsylvania are
many, and there is one bright woman who
bas a barrel-hooping machine which brings
her in $20,000 a year. This is Mary E.
Beaseley, of Pennsylvajia, the original in
ventor of the machine and the patentee of
numerous improvements upon it. One of
the machines, it is said, can put iron hoops
on 1,200 barrels in a single day.
OTHEIS PENNSYLVANIA WOMEN.
Another Pennsylvania woman has a ma
chine for making button holes upon flannels
and other materials with worsted, and Mary
E. Whitmer, of Philadelphia has an im
provement in stereoscopes, and Joanna
Gerlitz, of the same city, got out a patent
on bitters in 1876. Emily Tassey, of Pitts
burg, has a patent siphon, and Emma Heed,
of Suranton, has made a patent corset.
Carrie A. Monroe, ot Salt Lake City,
patented an improved vapor bath in 1878,
and the two Dietz girls of Oakland, Cat.,
are the inventors of a snow plow which at
tached to the engine's cow catcher tosses the
snow up two flumes nnd throws it on either
side of the track. An Iowa woman, Mrs.
Flora Grace, has a patent cooking ther
mometer. Instead of marking summer heat,
blood heat and freezing point, itmarksthe
points at which meat is boiled, pies are
cooked and bread is baked. I saw a patent
paper shirt invented by Helen M. Reming
ton, of Springfield, Mass. The paper shirt
was made of the strongest tissue paper known
to the trade as Kentucky bagging and the
bosom was stiffened with white wax. It was
claimed to be proof against perspiration and
I am not able to say whether it was wash
able or not.
just now tne ouik oi inventions is in
electricity and there is a number of women
who have electric patents. There are 15,000
electrical inventions in the Patent Office
and new ones are filed every day. There is
in fact no branch of life upon which woman's
mind is not now working and I judge that
woman's mind is equal to that of man iu
this field. Miss Grundy, Jr.
HOW AMERICA WAS FOUND.
Colombo! Set Soli for Dlnreo Polo's Golden
City of Fiction.
A lack of mercantile enterprise, says
lecturer John Fiske, and an ignorance of
geography in Europe in the eleventh cea
turjprevented the discovery ot the Norse
men from being followed up. It is not at
all likely that Columbus ever heard of the
discoveries by the Norsemen, and it has
been well said that an ounce of Yinland
would have been worth n pound of cosmog
raphy to him. From Marco Polo's work,
probably, he received his first ideas.
When Columbus set sail iu 1492 his desti
nation was Cepango. in Japan, the golden
city of which Polo wrote. Although Co
lumbus discovered the Venezuelan coast in
1498 he had no idea that it was a new conti
nent, but died iu tho belief that it was a
part of Asia.
Six Huodred Hides In n Belt.
A Philadelphia firm has taken an order
ot the Louisiana Electric Light Co., at New
Orleans, for 1G0 feet 72" (six feet wide)
double belt, and a 550 feet 48' (four feet
wide) double belt. These are the largest
belts ever made, and it will require the
hides of more than 600 head ot cattle to
make them.
K -
THE POPULAR GIRL.
Emma Y. Sheridan Insists She Must
Have Sterling Qualities.
BE SWEET TEMPERED AND FEASK.
If Ion Are Witty iever Go Oat Without a
Curb-Bit in lour Mouth.
A LOT OP ISP0K1IATI0JT KtCESSAKI
iwBrrrEr roit ins cisriTcitl
A train wa just moving away from a way.
station in New Jersey. It was a Chicago
express, and in the sleeping car was a comic
opera company from New York. Just be
fore retiring there had been a little unpleas
antness among the various members of the
company, arising from the fact that the
prima donna, whom, for sake of peace, we
will call Mis3 Salamander, had insisted
upon having a full section to herself, there
by compelling the second comedian of the
company to sleep on a sofa chair.
There had been a very fierce battle, but in
order to bridge the difficulty the second
comedian, who was a gentle little man, de
clared his willingness to sleep anywhere the
prima donna would permit. And so
Miss Salamander had her whole rection.
Just as the train was moving, with soma
speed, away from the station, and while the
sonorous slumber of some stout people not ia
the operatic business was keeping time to
the tinkling of the lamps, there was a sud
den jolt, a grinding sound, and then utter
silence a3 the train stood still.
"Good heavens, what have we struck?"
cried a voice from oue end of the sleeper.
And from the other end of the car the
second comedian replied: "Miss Salaman
der's cheek."
But it was not a serious collision. In
another moment the train was flying across
country, and both Miss Salamander and
the second comedian were slumbering sweet
ly. I only write the anecdote as a preface
to a few warning suggestions as to how a
girl, in private life, may realize some of the
fascinations of the stage's gentle heroines.
MUST HAVE STERLING VIRTUES.
To achieve popularity worth the nama
you need a lot of sterling virtues.
So go in training for them, if you
have them not. The fancy of a season
may make you the tashion, but only
genuine merit and strict attention to your
business can make you popular. It must ba
said of you that you are good tempered.
Your nature must show the sunny sweet
ness that makes the best of things always.
You must be reported to have a good word
for everjone. Don't think you can meet
this requirement by judiciously applied in
sincerity, either. The only safe way is to
get in the habit of bringing up some counter-balancing
good point in a person of
whom ill is spoken, or quote the unhappi
ness their fault brings them, or the prudence
of not judging people. In one of thesa
ways you cud always find some good that
you can say ot a person under discussion,
and with sincerity.
You must have a reputation for straight
forward frankness. A thousand insinceri
ties must be pruned from your speech Yon
must learn to keep still when others gush or
your straightforward frankness will bring
yon to grief. Learn to be frank as far as you
go, and not to go too far. A ready wit is
esteemed a factor of popularity. It is a good
thing to have, it can be cultivated, but be
ware oi smartness and sarcasm and sharp
sayings. People may admire your wit, but
if they tear it, too, it won't help vour popu
i , "" j"i m "i ou gires
I you a thrust in public, you will gain mora
I "? accepting the attack with gentle help-
larity. When your pet rival friend gives
wduw.. m.u uj caMuiuuiug jruur BU.il. JT IQ
give back as as good she sends.
DON'T REALIZE YOU'RE SOUGHT AITEK.
You must be willing to talk to bores and
stupid people and to give other women a
chance. You must never appear to realiza
that you are sought after or surrounded.
You must appreciate people's attention and
devotion as prompted by their kindness, not
inspired by your attractiveness. You must
be conscientious in all social duties and
courtesies. As you secure your popularity
don't iancy it will excuse you from formali
ties. Never appear to make an effort. Peo
ple who find you attractive will come of
themselves. You will gain nothing by
reaching for them.
Be able to gracefully turn a compliment,
and, when youdoso.letit be a tribute to the
onewho prompts It, not a mere decorative
achievement of your own. Have due re
gard for conventions and proprieties. To be
really popular, you must be a success with
all in your circle. If the men say ot you
that you are "ready for anything," your
hostess and some o. the nicest women in
your set are shy of you. That isn't popu
larity. Your sporting friend Dick must
find you entertaining, and your straight
laced great aunt must be sure you are not
going to shock her. Let your" regard for
proprieties spring from respect for their
wisdom, and vou won't make the mistake of
pretending to submit to them, only to ba
caugnt in violation ot their rules.
SMOKING CIGARETTES.
Don't steal off with Jack Dash to smoka
a surreptitious cigarette in Mrs. Stiflenad's
conservatory. It won't really help your
popularity with Jack, and it will kill it
with Mrs. S. if you are caught, and one
usually is caught, you know! Smoke your
cigarette iu your own pretty parlor, with
Jack, If you like, in your own pretty, well
ordered feminine way, making him feel it is
all right, and that you would not be doing
it if it were not. Still, cigarette popularity
is difficult to achieve discreetly, difficult to
maintain safely, and I deprecate it.
Keep yourself well informed. Encourage
people to talk to you of what interests them.
Soyouwillgatherupthe varied lotof inform
ation you will need. A bit about stocks,
some political information, a touch of crewel
work, a point or so on racing and who owns
Maud S now, a few lights on the heathea,
somethinc ot farming, the latest in church
conventions, an idea of the qualities men
admire in women, what constitutes a well
served dinner, a bit of army life, the imme
diate outlook in electric matters, the popu
lar school of music, something of journalism,
a recipe or so for punch, etc., etc. If you,
really set about it you will soon find your
self fairly equipped to interest any maa
you meet, be he a dancing master, an atheist
or a horse doctor.
One last rule: The popnlar girl is liked
by all, and shows no preferences.
Emma V. Sheridan.
WALKING DRESS FOE WOIIj-N.
Thoy Blast bo Oat or Doors so Maeh Nowa
dnjs That Reform In Needed.
One thing must be devised ere long, and
that is a comfortable and convenient walk
ing dress. Women of our time are workers,
and must be out in all kinds of weathers.
Besides that, many who do not earn their
own living have found what health and joy
there are in a five or ten-mile walk. Men
have business suits why may not women?
Our pioneer mothers, who led active lives in
the early day, wore gowns reaching to tho
ankle.
Women in trades and professions have
now to do as much outdoor walking as tha
pioneer mothers did, yet have to wear tha
long trailing dress adapted to the parlor or
carriage. In this garment, if a lady walks
much or rapidly, in a few weeks' time her
gown will be torn into rags and strings
around the bottom, utterly worn out, entail
ing much trouble and expense. It is lull of
dust in dry weather and draggled with mud
in wet weather, and in either case is not 4
pleasant object for a woman of delicate
senses to contemplate or carry. How ca
we have a reform?
I
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