CURRENT FASHIONS. Looking at the new goods designed for foll and winter wear, it would ap- pou that mild weather was a thing un- ought of by the menufscturers The weight of there new woclens is, however, very deceptive although they have the appearance of being heavy enough ‘or horse blankets, especially the tweeds. In colors the prominence of the browns is very noticeable, while the favored red shades are all o =a urplish cast. The rough goods come broche, damasse, striped and plaided designe, Blue Fnghish serge eostumes, with coat and dark blue hat to mutch, will be iashionsble the | enine antumn season, Tweeds in brown and Live mixtures will also be | wpular. Ancther pretty comlina- | on, and one which will be much sought after, is golden brown with red. The serviceable pray mixtures for early fall and general wear are bright. ened by vests of ladies’ cloth, if plainly made, or with silk if full or draped. Cigale and Pivert green, eardival, and deep yellow shades are stylish for this purpose, The newest pattern robes show borders of a fine jet embroidery, diagonal pieces of plush resembling far, cords and corduroy, with secrolis snd edges of silk embrordery; braiding velvet and a contrasting shade of cloth are also arranged in the trimming, which invariably forms a border for the front and sides and sleeves, or a bodice decoration, In dressy costumes two rich colors are frequently combined, the cown be- lng of cloth or mixed with silk velvet. {n many cases, however, all brimming s dispensed with, a plain and stylish ef- fect being given by using the hand- some cloth alone with rich trimmings on the bodice, sleeves, and cape or jacket, of arabesques in silk passe- menteries or effective appligues in cut relvet. { Bkirts rema’'n plain and the old gore is again seen. On account of the many jeams running into one point it has teocived the nameof ‘Umbrella Skirt.” feel C5 : At the border of these short trained | skirts, one sees seldom anything but a broad seam with a few rows of machine pitching. This skirt is especially | mitable for walking costumes. It was | Invented by a Puris firm and moulds | the figure below the waist and round the hips by means of a few darts, the whole of the fulness being thrown at the back, where 1t is arranged in a guadrople box-pleat. Its cut is very | simple as is +hown by the following sfioram which displays half of the | skirt, the whole being made of a single piece with only one ream. § No. 1221. full over the shoulders, long, and with slightly flaring collars. The back may fit the figure or hang looselr, with a voke effect or not as the wearer choses, Feather trimmings are espe ially pretty on these wraps, and silk linings give them a finshed 1 OA. Black straw hats trimmed with faney feathers ribbon have been seen for in the fashionab'e milliner’s tireen and black seems to be a favorite combination ior and broche some lime 1 WIIIOWS ’ None but the widest materials ean waay as to have the {wo at the fool, fit the form so more inaccessible than ever more undesirable, from the being so strained sronnd the fignre hole would certainly gape wherever placed. To remedy this the feshiona madiste sends home with each gown, a substitnte in the shape of sn art bag, daintily made ma'erial ss the dress, Some of these are exquisite ly eml lered, and gathered up with donhble be cerried over the Brn Or Au ed ‘rom the waist, They are intended to hold a hand¥k chic, smell change or simil ings bat not a purse, Last ASOT Trocades seemed have reached a point «f artistio perfec. fion impossible reel, but this fall's fabrics b th in beauty and novelty far surpass tem: ‘Lhe des gna are often large, but the smaller patterns their besuty 18 quite ss great, Many of them sre exact reproductions of the pompadonr broche and broeades fact that the of the game ro : to ier : ©r @ r belong tr i & “ VO to ¢ and XVI. An originul brocade isa rich satin covered with a fine pattern, upon it, solor. Black bouquets or single flower sprays, in gay or natural colors, either in India faille or Bengaline are used for coats to wenr with plain skirts, very beautifol, and for evening wear aro shown with a trimming which in effect imitates that of lace. On the edge of some of these fabrics there is embroidery in flowers or moons, tillos or squares. A new material for evening dresces is called Lahar crape; * of » soft, draping, silk and etton fabrie and comes in all the uelicate eclors, Copes of all sorts mado to mateh the go utes the |atchy when the cape or gewn 1m color, eogth and 1 Fe No, 12¥% {rimmings. gles decorate many of the ¥ feathers and aigr ties. The a‘grette atyle ani the ostrich effect will un- donbtedly prevail in trimming owing to its gr: ceful ar pearance Felt which like and 0 be freely used. bound and i iz so soft and velvet § all the new shades wil 1 the fot is not the miliiner twists the fabr e most | i pes, A roll a ster of ostrich tips, and a ger her warlike the As a he edge of antast a cls handsome weapon form rule, the back of close 'o the crown, " & or rimming. ot Iv iis i forming =» £0 Sm ft £ MORITEURDE LAMODE Ps {11} 30uRmAL ou chu w) mG NDE . a — ot Ei ——————————————e a No, 1222, Ro. 134. bias and bordered with bands of gui. pure; the back of the skirt is laid in left side to show a panel of tan-colored silk striped with chestnut brown. Plas- tron, turned down eollar, gauntlet Sis and shoulder puffs cf the same al No. 1225, Cumoren’s Arnoxs.— Red and white striped percale with red pip- ings are employed in making this lit- tle spron, The little short sleeves, yoke and the band which ornaments the bottom of the skirt, are cut on the bias and edged with the pipings of red; the body of the apron is gathered at the top and joined to the yoke, and at the waist line a casing is stitebed on the wre ng side for a draw-string. The - Sm THE WOMAN WHO WEEPS, Alfred De Musset says, in La Nuit d’ Octobre, **L’homimne cel un apprentd, cut la douleur est son maitre,” and in many esses his words are true enough, Men and won en suffer and cry out un- der their burdens, and the tears that full when the skies are dark above us and the birds thet were our merry minstrels cease to sing, are not invari- ably ‘tidle tears.” But the woman who weeps 18 not always » prey to melan- choly, or a target tor the slings snd ar- rowe of outrigevas fortune. On tne contrary, she is usnally an astute and apron is fastened 1n the back with but- | tens and button holes, trimmed with dored of white painsook, and bards of narrow, co stitehing which ean be yard, The skirt is straight with a wile hem and three row the bib both {ront and and trimmed with lands of stitching snd a parrow embroidored edge, is fastened by strings in the back and the points of embroidery on the shoulders of the bib are joined by in- visible stitches A LY se Ei —— Sh 1 he ) LESS No. 12268. C« Yeans Op. Th cloth ornamented ne in black silk round yoke and y« ke with a double ulntes a cape. 7 hus is ano of which we terns, with it trimme BOF 4 feat peated below ruffle which #5 fos 0 rir - ther of are ready to furnish pat RO 1L20 fr ont with the gunipure. The back of the bodice is plain, the front laid in bias pleats opens on a full front of surah. High shouldered sleeves eut | velvet, | No. 1224. Warxino Cosromn.— Dress | in tan-colored Bedford cord with coat | revers outhned with gold braid, and | fastened on the left hip under a jeweled 1 pf i : i i i i i { % BAO IR he : generally confined to the back. A. R, + E. No. 1221. Taavenise Cosrumns, broidery. The straight skirt is slight. ly draped in front and pleated in the back with a band of embroidery on the right side, The coat bodice with plested fronts is open on a waist-coat of silk buttoned in the centre and trimmed across the top of the front to simulate a square yoke. High collar of silk and sleeves of wool, full but leated from the wrists to the elbow to orm deep wrist-bands. No. 1222. The second illustration is a gown of tan-colored faille with jacket of Bedford cord to match. A series of usted folds ornament the plain nkirt; the open jacket with basque has its vpper edges, which border the pleated chemisette of dilk, ornamented with silk balls. A broad belt of em- broidered silk surrounds the waist and holds the lower edge of the chemisette; high shoulder sleeves buttoned om inner arm sesm at the wrist, ¥ No. 1220. CrocHEY IrHOOK FOR A Cunp Two Years Oup.—This little froek is worked in crochet with zephyr wool. It is done in tricot stitch, which s the well known stifeh in which loops are taken up going forward and worked The edges are fin- ished with a shell trimming. The dress consists of a sraight skirt attached to a waist, the pattern of which will be farnished onapplication. Ribbons are drawn throngh the open rows at the neck and waisl, fur-reeing yerson, who obrérves clear- ly through the mist of her tenrs the ob- ject of Ler beni t's desire, Bb to win, and every shining fulls is ns full of purpose #8 a vewly- created connty councilor, us relentless in intention as a Yreuch delective on the trail of an evil doer. Her weepin is like a stream flowin uver | bed of and she usnally a | woman to bewsreof. there are women who Le L irop 1Lat 8 a sl or ‘ 3 plones, '§. weep purily cause they think pathos suits just as black suits people with a skin. They drift into sobs as ana patorally es 8 young duck out into the village pound, far ir anxious hen on the shore. They to the water” from ebildhood. mihe though they are but little women then, when they are confirmed, when when they are engaged, and, above all, upon their weddi. g day. ery when the whi e veil that blots out the virgin past is thrown over their bowed heads! ‘luxury of woe” to the uttermost the tiny room, and, a few hours after- wards, upon the devoted husband's in the railway carriage. jut it is alter the long, shining hours of the honey- moon are at an end that the woman who weeps begins %0 ure her tears as s deadly weapon, to turn her hose, it were, upon ber marital nutil meutaily drenched ¢ be is fain to su short season « firs. quarrel, character it is! he or sl ELO the otiers aiversary, the 8K10, ceumb and plead { Ah! oS fi {he of 1 Ary vweaiher. what a little Each o1 «5 the Ta © ther ie naracier, ia $i 8 4 CaN ninine i CRE i List quarrel is ¢ tile «jot 2 $4 orizon: ba t clouds CAL TaD, 56 { many a hus) we to hs when bis obj are suddenly | transformed reindrops into pleas for pardon, contrite sell-re proaches, or sgonized entreaties to be informed of “What's t matter?’ In some cases, if he 8 man of stern mould, he simply turns op his coat. collar, and puts up an umbrella of cold and scornful indifference over his de- voted head, but then the rain has a way of incressing iuto hail, and the rtropgest of gam; s cannot withstand a long-continned storm. ihe woman who weeps should, however, be oare- ful not to misuse ber talent, or to prac. tice it too often. Custom has a way of shattering efficacy, and too many tears will sometimes act in the same way as too strong a dose of certain Eastern poisons, and instead of causing the jctim's death, bring about his cure. Bat besides the tears that are nsed as a weapon, there are other tears, swoet as ‘the gentle dew fram heaven,” which | full upon the dry paths of married ! life, and make the green blades to spring up, and the wilderness to bloe. som like a rose the tears that seal a compact of forgiveness, and wash Bway arid dust of and ripen and strengthen warm feelings of love and trust in the heart. The woman who never weeps at other times eed not blush to shed them, and she to be pitied who is Iscking of rmotion {hat she can never look back upon one moment in ber career, and murmur, with a sigh ball regretful half serene, ful! of melancholy that shadows even a happy retrospect, —1 “kissed aga n with tears!” opens Dis « be Hi On ¥ En cost irgatio by the x EL is contro ereY, 1% > GLOVER, Gzioves are a very important part ot the attire bo'h of men snd women, bat more particularly of the latter. 1 fitting gloves, minne a but'on or two, and with boles or marks f woar mended, ire ocorimi iy ns and mar the RPDOAran ce | whose toilet! perfect, p an- miv, of the woman Yery 8} isk er i ¢ in all 4] ¥ i only from the end of the tenth or ! ginning of the eleventh centary, at that time the manufacture them won slmost entire’'y in Germany “Five pair of glovia,” we read. “mule a considerable part of the duty paid fo our English sovereign, Ethelred 11 (9761016), by a society of German merchants for the protection of their trade in this country, a proof of their groat rarity.” The long kid glove came into ase in the reign ofCharlesll., when very short sleeves wero worn by ladies, Evalyn mentions gloves trimmed with lace in a description of a toilette, and a contem- porary poet says: : Somme of the chicken skin for night To keep her hands plump, soft and white In the sixteenth century gloves ware very usual pew year's gifts. Sir Fhe ase of gloves neland datos ih Alia cided in favor of Mrs. Crosker, suit against Lord Arundel. In token of her titude, Mrs, Croaker rented with a pair of gloves lined with forty pounds in “angela” “It would be against good manners,” said the Chuvaelior, “to fofuse : 's now 's gift, and | accept gloves; Tate yon ean bestow eisewhere,” This practice originated with the old custom of presenting a to any ore who n enlled ‘‘glovemone~.” Hence the vEliin of well-known term. . Brewer jolls us re this custom: “The gift of a pair of gloves was at one time a perquisite of those who per- formed nd services, such 4a ploatiing your eaufe, arbitrating your quarrel or showing you some fuvor which could not be charged for. As the services became more important the glove was ‘lined’ with money, or made 10 contain some coin called ‘glove-money.’ Relics of this ancient custom still prevail in the presentation of gloves to those who attend wi ddings and funerals, and in the claim of a lady who chooses to sa Inte n gentleman cancht napping in | her company, In “The Fair Maid of {| Perth,’ by Bir Walter Beott, Catherine steals from her chamber on St, Valen | tine's morn, and, es'ching Henry Bmith ssleep, gives him a kiss, The | glover sav: ‘Come into the { booth with me my son, and I will fur pih thee with & fitting theme, Thon | knowest the maiden who ventures to kiss a sleeping man wing of hm a pair of Chap. V.). In the next i chapter Henry presents the gloves, and Catherine accepts them." In “The Auntiquary”’ Sir Seott says thet the phrase “right as my glove” comes from the curtom of pledging a glove as the sign of irre- fragable faith. The expression, “He bit his glove,’ is synonymous to a resolution on mor - tal revenge. To bite the glove was considered on the Border a pledge of | deadly vengeance: Btern Riotherford right little sald, But bit bis give and shook bis head, Lay of the Last Minsirel to him i ’ gloves Walter In olden times Judges on the bench | were not allowed to wear gloves, so that the custom arose when there was an sssize without a criminal to present | the Judge with a pair of white gloves. It was a symbol that he need not come to the bench, and might wear gloves, The clerk of assize and Judges’ officers have on the same occasion money given to them, and this is called ‘‘glove sil- ver.” In a maiden circuit in Scotland white glove are always given to the { Judges, Gloves are never worn in the pres ence of Hoy ty, ns a proof that unarmed nd nngloved with gauntie!s, we Lave intentions. Gloves ar: al ved by Catholies befor: en- » coufessionanl, as a sign that g to speak withoui say Lilie y(31t sr > —-————— Cashm: re Shawls. hat 14,00 It is ea isla looms are kept nt in C ere, abont 80.000 W'e Woven on OIGR, 3 Doar of occupying three or ur men a whole year in weaving. The ost, which furni hes material, is found Thibet, the hair of it being fine, silky and about 1% inches long. It takes the fleece of ten goats to manufacture a shawl a yard and a half square, id { in oot it ™ haw ndely sli Wis o fr Ome mes Aslimere g Lie in i t — ss A over wide, CATTLE range in 300 miles long Washington and 200 = thes A SCIENTIFIC BECRRATION, Split a lucifer match at the zon. phosphorized end. Trim the end of » econd into a wedge shape, aud work the ope into the other so as to form a V, the more scute the angle the better! Place these two matches astride the edge of the kuife, requesting the skep- tical gentleman to keep the blade ox- actly horizontal, and so to hold his hand that the two phesphorized ends f the matches shall just touch the table, without any interruption of con- tact. To the astonishment of the com pany, including the experimenter, the two matches will be seen gradaslly te move along the blade. This unexpect- ed effect is produced by unconscious movements on the part of the person who holds the knife-~movemments as im- perceptible to himself as to the other spe tators When it is desired to give the experi. ment a more fanciful charaster you may slightly break watch hall way down, they wili t represent the of a cavalier, bod ut oud a visiting be ina slit made at of junctare of the two “" each } He a legs whose may pont i of i CARING, the matches ginck & DOrson th tempered noery- of tem ae 18 % with RUILY, ti restraint, for the be CRA EE ory 1o ¥ | her friends who wonld nt being treated as of nusound mind, snd yet takes nearly sll the privileges of one who = Per. sons of delicate nervous organizations are often the most amiable; long suf fers from lingering diccase seem 10 no- quire a power Ww bear pain which seems little short of angelic, The dis- play of ‘‘nervous temper” cannot be excused on the ground of illness, as the most irritable people sre not those who are aufferera from depressing sickhoss, and the much-talked-of irritability of the invalid is found on investigation Wo ; be mucha matter of temperament. The so-called nervous women, who make | everybody around them wretohed with | their unaccountable (reaks, and, above ‘all, with their unbearable temper, are i iy often women of robust health, who | will walk miles in pursuit of a shop. | ping fancy or some whim that attracts them, omen of fine nervous temper. rider herself and othe Li fT 1: YM} i &, Epp BP 8.106 BRe ORS 3 § Bis 2 is “he fo pa
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers