CURRENT FASHIONS.
Looking at the new goods designed
for foll and winter wear, it would ap-
pou that mild weather was a thing un-
ought of by the menufscturers
The weight of there new woclens is,
however, very deceptive although they
have the appearance of being heavy
enough ‘or horse blankets, especially
the tweeds. In colors the prominence
of the browns is very noticeable, while
the favored red shades are all o =a
urplish cast. The rough goods come
broche, damasse, striped and
plaided designe, Blue Fnghish serge
eostumes, with coat and dark blue
hat to mutch, will be iashionsble the |
enine antumn season, Tweeds in
brown and Live mixtures will also be |
wpular. Ancther pretty comlina- |
on, and one which will be much
sought after, is golden brown with red.
The serviceable pray mixtures for
early fall and general wear are bright.
ened by vests of ladies’ cloth, if plainly
made, or with silk if full or draped.
Cigale and Pivert green, eardival, and
deep yellow shades are stylish for this
purpose, The newest pattern robes
show borders of a fine jet embroidery,
diagonal pieces of plush resembling
far, cords and corduroy, with secrolis
snd edges of silk embrordery; braiding
velvet and a contrasting shade of cloth
are also arranged in the trimming,
which invariably forms a border for
the front and sides and sleeves, or a
bodice decoration,
In dressy costumes two rich colors
are frequently combined, the cown be-
lng of cloth or mixed with silk velvet.
{n many cases, however, all brimming s
dispensed with, a plain and stylish ef-
fect being given by using the hand-
some cloth alone with rich trimmings
on the bodice, sleeves, and cape or
jacket, of arabesques in silk passe-
menteries or effective appligues in cut
relvet. {
Bkirts rema’'n plain and the old gore
is again seen. On account of the many
jeams running into one point it has
teocived the nameof ‘Umbrella Skirt.”
feel
C5
:
At the border of these short trained |
skirts, one sees seldom anything but a
broad seam with a few rows of machine
pitching. This skirt is especially |
mitable for walking costumes. It was |
Invented by a Puris firm and moulds |
the figure below the waist and round
the hips by means of a few darts, the
whole of the fulness being thrown at
the back, where 1t is arranged in a
guadrople box-pleat. Its cut is very |
simple as is +hown by the following
sfioram which displays half of the |
skirt, the whole being made of a single
piece with only one ream.
§
No. 1221.
full over the shoulders, long, and with
slightly flaring collars. The back may
fit the figure or hang looselr, with a
voke effect or not as the wearer choses,
Feather trimmings are espe ially pretty
on these wraps, and silk linings give
them a finshed 1 OA.
Black straw hats trimmed with faney
feathers ribbon have been
seen for in the fashionab'e
milliner’s tireen and black
seems to be a favorite combination ior
and broche
some lime
1
WIIIOWS
’
None but the widest materials ean
waay as to have the {wo
at the fool,
fit the form so
more inaccessible than ever
more undesirable, from the
being so strained sronnd the fignre
hole would certainly gape wherever
placed. To remedy this the feshiona
madiste sends home with each gown, a
substitnte in the shape of sn art bag,
daintily made ma'erial ss
the dress, Some of these are exquisite
ly eml lered, and gathered up with
donhble be cerried over the
Brn Or Au ed ‘rom the waist,
They are intended to hold a hand¥k
chic, smell change or simil
ings bat not a purse,
Last ASOT Trocades seemed
have reached a point «f artistio perfec.
fion impossible reel, but this fall's
fabrics b th in beauty and novelty far
surpass tem: ‘Lhe des gna are often
large, but the smaller patterns their
besuty 18 quite ss great, Many of
them sre exact reproductions of the
pompadonr broche and broeades
fact that
the
of the game
ro
: to
ier :
©r
@ r belong
tr
i
& “ VO
to ¢
and XVI. An originul brocade isa
rich satin covered with a fine pattern,
upon it,
solor. Black
bouquets or single flower sprays, in
gay or natural colors, either in India
faille or Bengaline are used for coats
to wenr with plain skirts,
very beautifol, and for evening wear
aro shown with a trimming which in
effect imitates that of lace. On the
edge of some of these fabrics there is
embroidery in flowers or moons,
tillos or squares. A new material for
evening dresces is called Lahar crape;
* of » soft, draping, silk and
etton fabrie and comes in all the
uelicate eclors,
Copes of all sorts
mado to mateh the go
utes the |atchy
when the cape or
gewn 1m color,
eogth and
1
Fe
No, 12¥%
{rimmings.
gles decorate many of the ¥
feathers and aigr ties. The a‘grette
atyle ani the ostrich effect will un-
donbtedly prevail in trimming owing
to its gr: ceful ar pearance Felt which
like and 0
be freely used.
bound and
i
iz so soft and velvet §
all the new shades wil
1 the fot is not
the miliiner twists the fabr e
most | i pes, A roll
a ster of ostrich tips, and a
ger her warlike
the As a
he edge of
antast
a cls
handsome
weapon form
rule, the back of
close 'o the crown,
"
&
or
rimming.
ot
Iv
iis i
forming =»
£0
Sm
ft
£ MORITEURDE LAMODE Ps
{11} 30uRmAL ou chu w) mG NDE .
a — ot
Ei ——————————————e
a
No, 1222,
Ro. 134.
bias and bordered with bands of gui.
pure; the back of the skirt is laid in
left side to show a panel of tan-colored
silk striped with chestnut brown. Plas-
tron, turned down eollar, gauntlet
Sis and shoulder puffs cf the same
al
No. 1225, Cumoren’s Arnoxs.— Red
and white striped percale with red pip-
ings are employed in making this lit-
tle spron, The little short sleeves,
yoke and the band which ornaments
the bottom of the skirt, are cut on the
bias and edged with the pipings of red;
the body of the apron is gathered at
the top and joined to the yoke, and at
the waist line a casing is stitebed on
the wre ng side for a draw-string. The
- Sm
THE WOMAN WHO WEEPS,
Alfred De Musset says, in La Nuit
d’ Octobre, **L’homimne cel un apprentd,
cut la douleur est son maitre,” and in
many esses his words are true enough,
Men and won en suffer and cry out un-
der their burdens, and the tears that
full when the skies are dark above us
and the birds thet were our merry
minstrels cease to sing, are not invari-
ably ‘tidle tears.” But the woman who
weeps 18 not always » prey to melan-
choly, or a target tor the slings snd ar-
rowe of outrigevas fortune. On tne
contrary, she is usnally an astute and
apron is fastened 1n the back with but- |
tens and button holes,
trimmed with
dored
of white painsook, and
bards of narrow, co
stitehing which ean be
yard, The skirt is straight with a wile
hem and three row
the bib both {ront and
and trimmed with lands of
stitching snd a parrow embroidored
edge,
is fastened by strings in the back and
the points of embroidery on the
shoulders of the bib are joined by in-
visible stitches
A
LY se
Ei ——
Sh 1
he
)
LESS
No. 12268. C«
Yeans Op. Th
cloth ornamented
ne in black silk
round yoke and
y« ke with a double
ulntes a cape.
7 hus is ano
of which we
terns,
with
it
trimme
BOF 4
feat
peated
below
ruffle which
#5 fos
0
rir -
ther of
are ready to furnish pat
RO 1L20
fr ont with the gunipure. The back of
the bodice is plain, the front laid in
bias pleats opens on a full front of
surah. High shouldered sleeves eut
| velvet,
| No. 1224. Warxino Cosromn.— Dress
| in tan-colored Bedford cord with coat
| revers outhned with gold braid, and
| fastened on the left hip under a jeweled
1
pf
i
:
i
i
i
i
i
{
%
BAO IR
he
:
generally confined to the back.
A. R,
+
E.
No. 1221. Taavenise Cosrumns,
broidery. The straight skirt is slight.
ly draped in front and pleated in the
back with a band of embroidery on the
right side, The coat bodice with
plested fronts is open on a waist-coat
of silk buttoned in the centre and
trimmed across the top of the front to
simulate a square yoke. High collar
of silk and sleeves of wool, full but
leated from the wrists to the elbow to
orm deep wrist-bands.
No. 1222. The second illustration is
a gown of tan-colored faille with jacket
of Bedford cord to match. A series of
usted folds ornament the plain
nkirt; the open jacket with basque has
its vpper edges, which border the
pleated chemisette of dilk, ornamented
with silk balls. A broad belt of em-
broidered silk surrounds the waist and
holds the lower edge of the chemisette;
high shoulder sleeves buttoned om
inner arm sesm at the wrist,
¥
No. 1220. CrocHEY IrHOOK FOR A
Cunp Two Years Oup.—This little
froek is worked in crochet with zephyr
wool. It is done in tricot stitch, which
s the well known stifeh in which loops
are taken up going forward and worked
The edges are fin-
ished with a shell trimming. The dress
consists of a sraight skirt attached to
a waist, the pattern of which will be
farnished onapplication. Ribbons are
drawn throngh the open rows at the
neck and waisl,
fur-reeing yerson, who obrérves clear-
ly through the mist of her tenrs the ob-
ject of Ler beni t's desire, Bb
to win, and every shining
fulls is ns full of purpose #8 a vewly-
created connty councilor, us relentless
in intention as a Yreuch delective on
the trail of an evil doer. Her weepin
is like a stream flowin uver
| bed of and she usnally a
| woman to bewsreof.
there are women who
Le
L
irop 1Lat
8 a
sl or ‘ 3
plones, '§.
weep purily
cause they think pathos suits
just as black suits people with a
skin. They drift into sobs as
ana patorally es 8 young duck
out into the village pound, far ir
anxious hen on the shore. They
to the water” from ebildhood.
mihe
though they are but little women then,
when they are confirmed, when
when they are engaged, and, above all,
upon their weddi. g day.
ery when the whi e veil that blots out
the virgin past is thrown over their
bowed heads!
‘luxury of woe” to the uttermost
the tiny room, and, a few hours after-
wards, upon the devoted husband's in
the railway carriage. jut it is alter
the long, shining hours of the honey-
moon are at an end that the woman
who weeps begins %0 ure her tears as
s deadly weapon, to turn her hose,
it were, upon ber marital
nutil meutaily drenched ¢
be is fain to su
short season «
firs. quarrel,
character it is!
he or sl ELO
the otiers
aiversary,
the 8K10,
ceumb and plead {
Ah!
oS
fi
{he
of
1 Ary vweaiher.
what a little
Each o1
«5 the
Ta ©
ther
ie
naracier, ia
$i 8 4
CaN
ninine
i
CRE
i
List quarrel is ¢ tile «jot 2 $4
orizon: ba t clouds CAL TaD, 56
{ many a hus) we to hs
when bis obj are suddenly
| transformed reindrops into
pleas for pardon, contrite sell-re
proaches, or sgonized entreaties to be
informed of “What's t matter?’ In
some cases, if he 8 man of stern
mould, he simply turns op his coat.
collar, and puts up an umbrella of cold
and scornful indifference over his de-
voted head, but then the rain has a
way of incressing iuto hail, and the
rtropgest of gam; s cannot withstand a
long-continned storm. ihe woman
who weeps should, however, be oare-
ful not to misuse ber talent, or to prac.
tice it too often. Custom has a way of
shattering efficacy, and too many tears
will sometimes act in the same way as
too strong a dose of certain Eastern
poisons, and instead of causing the
jctim's death, bring about his cure.
Bat besides the tears that are nsed as a
weapon, there are other tears, swoet as
‘the gentle dew fram heaven,” which
| full upon the dry paths of married
! life, and make the green blades to
spring up, and the wilderness to bloe.
som like a rose the tears that seal a
compact of forgiveness, and wash Bway
arid dust of and ripen
and strengthen warm feelings of love
and trust in the heart. The woman
who never weeps at other times eed
not blush to shed them, and she to
be pitied who is Iscking of rmotion
{hat she can never look back upon one
moment in ber career, and murmur,
with a sigh ball regretful half serene,
ful! of melancholy that shadows even a
happy retrospect, —1 “kissed aga n with
tears!”
opens Dis « be
Hi On
¥
En cost
irgatio
by the
x
EL
is
contro ereY,
1%
>
GLOVER,
Gzioves are a very important part ot
the attire bo'h of men snd women, bat
more particularly of the latter. 1
fitting gloves, minne a but'on or two,
and with boles or marks f woar
mended, ire ocorimi iy ns
and mar the RPDOAran ce
| whose toilet!
perfect,
p an-
miv,
of the woman
Yery
8}
isk
er
i
¢ in all
4] ¥
i only from the end of the tenth or
! ginning of the eleventh centary,
at that time the manufacture them
won slmost entire’'y in Germany
“Five pair of glovia,” we read. “mule
a considerable part of the duty paid fo
our English sovereign, Ethelred 11
(9761016), by a society of German
merchants for the protection of their
trade in this country, a proof of their
groat rarity.”
The long kid glove came into ase in
the reign ofCharlesll., when very short
sleeves wero worn by ladies, Evalyn
mentions gloves trimmed with lace in a
description of a toilette, and a contem-
porary poet says:
: Somme of the chicken skin for night
To keep her hands plump, soft and white
In the sixteenth century gloves ware
very usual pew year's gifts. Sir
Fhe ase of gloves neland datos
ih
Alia
cided in favor of Mrs. Crosker,
suit against Lord Arundel. In token
of her titude, Mrs, Croaker
rented
with a pair of gloves lined with forty
pounds in “angela” “It would be
against good manners,” said the
Chuvaelior, “to fofuse : 's now
's gift, and | accept gloves;
Tate yon ean bestow eisewhere,”
This practice originated with the old
custom of presenting a
to any ore who n
enlled ‘‘glovemone~.” Hence the
vEliin of well-known term.
. Brewer jolls us re this custom:
“The gift of a pair of gloves was at one
time a perquisite of those who per-
formed nd services, such 4a ploatiing
your eaufe, arbitrating your quarrel
or showing you some fuvor which could
not be charged for. As the services
became more important the glove was
‘lined’ with money, or made 10 contain
some coin called ‘glove-money.’ Relics
of this ancient custom still prevail in
the presentation of gloves to those who
attend wi ddings and funerals, and in
the claim of a lady who chooses to sa
Inte n gentleman cancht napping in
| her company, In “The Fair Maid of
{| Perth,’ by Bir Walter Beott, Catherine
steals from her chamber on St, Valen
| tine's morn, and, es'ching Henry
Bmith ssleep, gives him a kiss, The
| glover sav: ‘Come into the
{ booth with me my son, and I will fur
pih thee with & fitting theme, Thon
| knowest the maiden who ventures to
kiss a sleeping man wing of hm a pair
of Chap. V.). In the next
i chapter Henry presents the gloves,
and Catherine accepts them."
In “The Auntiquary”’ Sir
Seott says thet the phrase “right as
my glove” comes from the curtom of
pledging a glove as the sign of irre-
fragable faith.
The expression, “He bit his glove,’
is synonymous to a resolution on mor -
tal revenge. To bite the glove was
considered on the Border a pledge of
| deadly vengeance:
Btern Riotherford right little sald,
But bit bis give and shook bis head,
Lay of the Last Minsirel
to him
i ’
gloves
Walter
In olden times Judges on the bench
| were not allowed to wear gloves, so
that the custom arose when there was
an sssize without a criminal to present
| the Judge with a pair of white gloves.
It was a symbol that he need not come
to the bench, and might wear gloves,
The clerk of assize and Judges’ officers
have on the same occasion money given
to them, and this is called ‘‘glove sil-
ver.” In a maiden circuit in Scotland
white glove are always given to the
{ Judges,
Gloves are never worn in the pres
ence of Hoy ty, ns a proof that unarmed
nd nngloved with gauntie!s, we Lave
intentions. Gloves ar: al
ved by Catholies befor: en-
» coufessionanl, as a sign that
g to speak withoui say
Lilie
y(31t
sr > —-—————
Cashm: re Shawls.
hat 14,00
It is ea
isla
looms are kept
nt in C ere,
abont 80.000
W'e Woven on
OIGR, 3 Doar of
occupying three or
ur men a whole year in weaving. The
ost, which furni hes
material, is found Thibet, the hair
of it being fine, silky and about 1%
inches long. It takes the fleece of ten
goats to manufacture a shawl a yard
and a half square,
id {
in oot it ™
haw
ndely
sli Wis
o
fr
Ome mes
Aslimere g Lie
in
i
t
— ss
A
over
wide,
CATTLE range in
300 miles long
Washington
and 200
=
thes
A SCIENTIFIC BECRRATION,
Split a lucifer match at the zon.
phosphorized end. Trim the end of »
econd into a wedge shape, aud work
the ope into the other so as to form a
V, the more scute the angle the better!
Place these two matches astride the
edge of the kuife, requesting the skep-
tical gentleman to keep the blade ox-
actly horizontal, and so to hold his
hand that the two phesphorized ends
f the matches shall just touch the
table, without any interruption of con-
tact. To the astonishment of the com
pany, including the experimenter, the
two matches will be seen gradaslly te
move along the blade. This unexpect-
ed effect is produced by unconscious
movements on the part of the person
who holds the knife-~movemments as im-
perceptible to himself as to the other
spe tators
When it is desired to give the experi.
ment a more fanciful charaster you
may slightly break watch hall
way down, they wili t represent the
of a cavalier, bod ut oud
a visiting be ina
slit made at of junctare of
the two
“"
each
}
He
a
legs whose
may
pont
i
of i
CARING,
the
matches
ginck
& DOrson th
tempered
noery-
of tem
ae 18
%
with
RUILY, ti
restraint, for the
be
CRA EE
ory 1o ¥ | her friends
who wonld nt being treated as
of nusound mind, snd yet takes nearly
sll the privileges of one who = Per.
sons of delicate nervous organizations
are often the most amiable; long suf
fers from lingering diccase seem 10 no-
quire a power Ww bear pain which
seems little short of angelic, The dis-
play of ‘‘nervous temper” cannot be
excused on the ground of illness, as the
most irritable people sre not those who
are aufferera from depressing sickhoss,
and the much-talked-of irritability of
the invalid is found on investigation Wo
; be mucha matter of temperament. The
so-called nervous women, who make
| everybody around them wretohed with
| their unaccountable (reaks, and, above
‘all, with their unbearable temper, are
i iy often women of robust health, who
| will walk miles in pursuit of a shop.
| ping fancy or some whim that attracts
them, omen of fine nervous temper.
rider
herself and othe
Li
fT 1:
YM}
i
&, Epp BP
8.106 BRe ORS
3 §
Bis 2
is “he
fo pa