* OUR PARIS LETTER, “Too many flowed,” gays Calchas, his head wisely tipp: d to one ride as if deciding a very momentous question, “Too many amusements,” we reply somewhat snappishly; bazars for char- ity, representations given at private houses before the elite, ostensibly for the benefit of some poor unfortunate, balls, weddings, flower fetes, races, ete, eto., oceupying all our time and exhausting all our energies! It 18 true that we have in return the great pleasure of admiring many very pretty things, for the women have never displayed more taste, more artis- fic invention, and a greater delicacy of tact in arranging their ocstumes than in the present season. The combina- tion of materials, of colors and of trim- mings is now mapaged with such won- derful intuition that one cannot help being charmed with the delieate, dainty costumes that are produced. Sheath or bell-shaped skirts still pre- vail, very long, smooth at the top and expanding towards the bottom. The front breadth is made to fit smoothly by means of darts, and the other breadths are simply draped on each gide and cut on the bias at the top. Whatever may be necessary to give ful- mess to the skirt is added to each side of the front bresdth, while the sheath form is obtained by the bias seam wh ch joins the two parts of the skirt in the back. Foundation skirts are now but seldom used, the skirt being lined with milk and supported in the back by two or three fr ou-frou flounnces, Sometimes, if the skirt is very and the material heavy, it is lined with light muslin with a broad hem of silk faced up on the right side. We hasten to say that all the world does not fol- low this fashion of skirts, so clinging to the form and at the same time so embarrassing. Among the novel things that we have admired, sometimes at the races, some- times at the at the ‘Petit Trianon,” we will describe for our readers a pretty robe of periwinkle gicilienne trimmed with cicada velvet. The skirt, in sheath shape, had three narrow pleated ruflles set under the lower edge; the front, almost to the waist, ornamented in the Directoire style. The ronnd waist was encireled by fi deep girdle of cicada velvet fast- ened by a gold buckle. The pl bodice was simply gathered at waist-line. For trimming, two bretel of velvet losing themselves in the ¢ dle both in front and back. and each passing through a buckle of gold over the chest. Siraight sleeves finished by plain cuffs. This costume was a work of art, but of a simplicity most charm- ing and attractive, Another costume was of mere embroidered with arabesques jet. Clinging skirt with deep of embroidery; embroider) were also placed at the bottom waist, on the hips, descending in the back to the bottom of the skirt, and edging the fan-shaped breadth of the train. The bodice, buttoned at the left, was very close fitting with fronts of embroidered lace. Sleeves a lg ftalienne, in lace, with smooth enffs Many skirts are trimmed at the lower edge, which gives to the extreme simplicity of these long gowns a very stylish effect. A ruche, a puff of vel vet, pipings or a flounce of lace are the kind of trimmings usdally seen Vests without sleeves are largely wora as they are found to be so practical, At the Salon of the Champ de the princess i geen toilette of black sici and a jacke of black eloth dotted with jet shot. Th short pointed sleeves of this jacket per- mitted to be seen the i he sicilienne bodice; a black feathers surrounded the arm-holes faced the Medici collarand ornamented the fronts, A pretty model in gray cloth was irimmed with narrow rows of steel and gold braid; the fronts were widely open on the bodice of the gown, and a row of flat buttons in gray silk were placed on each side just above the waist line. Straight sleeves and plain enffla. With this was worn a small hat of brown straw trimmed with knots of skv-blae satin. : The little ones follow very rapidly in the footsteps of their elders as far as dress is concerned. A giri of eight woars a coat of moss-colored surah with yoke and collar of bronze velvet; large sleeves with smooth cuffs of the same velvet. A hat of tobacco-colored straw faced with moss-colored talle and trimmed with ribbons of the same shade. Another, a baby of scarcely two years, 1s dressed in a cloak of rose colored faille ornamen‘ed with Irish guipure. The fronts are crossed and ornamented with double rows of but- tons; the long skirts has pocket laps and the revers are enlarged by a trim- ming of gnipure, Large hat of rose- colored lawn veiled with lace and pink plumes, fetes ITY-Qray Of hine border designs of the V¢ irs, 8. was lately 11 ltenne a t e Frrion Lesrie, ———— to Br. —No, 1104, Straight il draped to form with straight [he plain front is with small embroidered bows half way up the skirt. STRAIGHT SKI skirt in plain materi paniers on the hips and At the lower point of the bodice in the back is placed long loops and ends ot black velvet ribbon. No. 1107. rrosr No. 1108, Crasmiserres — These shirt fronts are to be worn with a dress which is ent down at the throat, | The one at the left of the eutis of | light blne Chambery, with the hem down the middle of the front, and the | narrow tie at the throat of white lawn, | A second is of pink Chambery, witha | band of 1usertion down the middle, and | a narrow tie of white lawn at edge of the collar with turned points. The third eollar in the group is jue, with a band of into the collar bound with LHATTOW VIEW, & with a and white tie, pink od with a finisl white No. made of silk or woo mounted in very fuli pl is plain and trimmed at t pleated flon I'he stra 1105, skirt and is the front ot with a 18 1 ¥ i 11. points and falls po ng of braid. ine mm ing, the i witha atiteh- nts being embroidere No. 1107. naox vw, No. 1108, Gowx ron A Laws Parry. ~1This charming model is made of cream-colored foulard dotted with bouquets of scarlet flowers and trimmed with cream lace and scarlet ribbons. Plain skirt of fonlard with the left side ornamented with a draped redingote side of the some materia! edged with lace, the right side is trimmed by long loops and ends of ribbon dependin from the bread ribbon belt, The full bodice is gathered at the neck, and closed on the left side under a bretelle of lace which descends from the shonld- er and meets the flonnce upon the skirt, Full sleeves, half long, finished with a frill of lace and band with knot of rib- bon. High draped collar. Hat of white lace straw trimmed with wild flowers, scarlet ribbon ned lace, No. 1107. Bvumen Goww., — This gown may be made of any light mater. 1 such as challi, foulard, ete. The skirt is pleated in the back and draped on the hips and In front so as to sum- ulate small paniers; the bottom is fin- ished with a deep flounce of the dress goods set on to form a heading. The bodice is plain, pointed in the front, alight] at the neck and is trim- med w retellos of black lace headed by narrow bisck velvet ribbon. Flar- LE This suit is made of dark blue } trimmed with bands of white on wl are lines of red The drawers and waist are made separate and joined by a broad band; the plastron, orns- mented with embroidered anchor, is sewed to the left front and buttoned underneath the right side, sontache, Aan No. 11090 No. 1110. Barmisa Car.—For nse light oiled silk. The crown and cape are cut together but separate from the front, to which they sre joined with a row of braid. The back of the pinked at the edge, while the front is ornamented with a pleated ruche made of a graduated strip of the milk pinked at the edges. No 1111, No. 112 JaTnrxg Bormr.— blouse and draw- The top of the No. 1111. Giryr's | This suit is cut with ers forming one piece, blouse is cut square in the neck and | finished with broad bands buttoned { on the shoulders; the fulness at the | waist is confined by gathers and con- | cenled beneath s buttoned belt. The bottom of the drawers are gathered | and finished with a band and frill of the same material. Any pretty striped flannel may used for this model. No, 1112. Onere Prastrox.—Mater- inks: red erepe and cream- colored tulle, en with small gold buttons, and pale green ribbons, This fall i lastron has st the top two | pufls of crepe bordered by three strips 3 namented with gold but tons; high eollar in ribbon ed ple ated crep 1 closed bya ribbon. The bottom of the plastron is gate red at the line and finished by a flonnee of embroidered tulle and a full bow of ribbon. Deg Maize-col Wbroidered of r bit knot of waist HOT WEATHER COOKERY. | It is a fact that never are soups mors | welcome than in summer, Not heavy | meat or dried vegetable soups, but light oonsommes and broths made | from veal, poultry and green wvege- tables. We have simplified one of the most delicious soups of a great artist whieh, if you will not let the name | frighten you, we will still call ! Careme,—Put over the fire in your soup kettle the carcass | of one or more roasted chickens, a ten | cent knuckle of veal and some roast if yon have them, and cover with a quart of water for every | pound of meat and bones lot this {come toa boil slowly, and add the | nsual soup vegetables; mmmer four hours and strain. This broth will transparent, nourishing, and of a rich | yellow color. Hemove the fat, if any, from the t Wp, anda retarn it to the fire | with a teacupful of carrot, turmip and leek for each three pints of the broth. The carrot and turnip should be peeled { and then cut in wafer-like slices, hals | ing and quartering the slices of tur i mip if large: simmer until they are tender and finish with a few spoonsful | of asparagus tips parboiled until tender n Bhiling water. Cut some thin slices of bread, butter them, cut in small {ice and dry in the oven; put them in | the tnreen and pour the soup over. This is not a troublesome or expensive soup if youn take the opportunity | make it when you have the materials on hand. The turnips and carrots can be those left from yesterday's dinner, {| as also the asparagus, in which case | they will poed only to be made bot in | the broth | Ouweumber Soup.—This is a delight. ful warm weather soup. Have ready such a broth as that given above, but instead of adding turnip, carrot and { looks, add encumbers prepared as fol- | lows: Pare two medium-sized oncum- bers, remove the seeds with an apple loorer and fill with chicken or weal { forcemeat; place them in a sancepan {| with thin shoes of salt pork and enough broth to cover; cook ly for half an hour; lift them out and when partially cool out in round slices half an inch thiok; lay these in a soup tureen with some dice of dried bread and pour over the hot broth. The broth in which the cucumbers were cooked may be strained and set aside for use another day. Consomme a la | beef bones, 1 3 to Gooseberry Cream.—Boil a pound of green gooseberries; drain, and when ooo] press through a fine seve; swan ten to taste with white sagar and add doub- le the quantity of sweet cream whipped stiff. Serve in little china or glass cups with sponge cake or lady fin- gers. Frozen Cherries. Stone a quart of sour cherries, cover with one pound of sugar and let them stand for an hour or two, then stir until the sugar is dissolved, add a pint of water and freeze, Jolly. ~All small fruit jellies are difficult to make because care enough is not taken in the selection of the fruit an | in expressing the juice, Let the berries be rather under than over ripe; put them in a stone jar, stand this in a larger vessel of cold water. set over the fire, and boil until the fruit is soft, keeping it covered, Squeeze out through a jelly bag, and allow a ponnd of sugar to each pint of juice. Heat the sugar in the oven, in earthern dishes, and boil the janice twenty min. utes from the time boiling commences, add the hot sugar, and as soon as dis. solved fill the oly tumblers. The writer has never BY MINNIE A. BARNEY, peope of the amateur wood-carver’s kill is the imitation of inlaid work, It is rapidly and easily done, and artistic enough to gratify the most esthetic taste, A veiner of the smallest size, 1. ¢, one thirty-seeond of an inch, is the only tool needed. The other requis ites are a fine water-color paintbrush and a small quantity of unsiacked lime, The wood must be either cherry or ma- hogany. We will suppose that the firet arti- eles for experimenting upon are a writing tablet, ten by fourteen inches, one-fourth inch thick, and a bangle board twelve and a hall inches long the former sketeh scross the left-hand corner a spray of wild lets and grasses, and the words from Shakespeare: ‘‘Devise, wit, write, pen.” On the bangle board outline a half dozen butterflies in flight, Follow carefully with the the pencil marks, then face with ar abont two table ciean and the o« I. mixture as paint, cover ti vy coating and add enor msisteney of a ne it off with a stiff brush coat will be needed if the design several shades darker than the ground When the contrast is the work satisfactory, face with turpentine and with a cont of raw linseed rubbed in with a woolen cloth. twenty-four hours for the absorption of the oil and then dress the surface with a thin polish of white shellac dis- solved 1n aleohol Alternate the treat- ment with the oil and times, always back- suff and Eur- ent clean the oil, Allow . allowing opening on a pleated vest. The sides’ and back sre lengthened by a shirred flounce eleven inches deep. A velvet ribbon belt crosses the front twice and hangs in a long bow at the left side. i Esmseomenep Iwviriare This illus. | tration shows the latest designs in eme ! broidered initisls for marking bed | linen. LA ER NS CASE YOR PARABOLA AND UMEBRELLAS, —This usef of thick brown Hal embroid- ered in and bine cotton, using a pret tern, The front and back of are bound with broad For the back a piece of d rial thirty- three and one balf inches and seventeen wide at the upper end, and nine snd three- fourth inches wi wer end is req L which the pockets are | of a rquare of Hollan« niv-s1x and three fourth placed on the back ve after the mater in at the lower x pleats each of the same ith of nine and three fourth inches he hollow of each pis nt 1 fastened to the back of the case with a length of braid stitehed { on; the for the sud for the loops 1 Pe 3 + ii Cas 5 made scarlet wong 1 v | y anaq ue x : InCcLes ire : he latter also ng used Vandykes at the top, { by which it is hung n cations, A word to the designer oY erlapping whole treatment should be silhouette, leaves as possible, that this unique style of decoration continue to suggest themselves to worker if he has never so little ality. Glove boxes, portfolios, table- tops and essels are all among the pos- bi The accompanving buttercup design is suitable for a frame for inet photographs the origin- ites, Ena suitable Crore ren chet edge is and is made as follows. ist row. —* 17 chain, EY, ~The Conxen ror A Haxpreson pretty design is worked in tambour stiteh, the filling in French knot and the branches 1n out line stitch, erochet around the first 5 loop, 6 chain, ing 6 chain, separating the 2d and 3d, 5th and 6th, and 8th and 9th, of the doubles by a pioot (for a picot 4 chain and a slip stitch on the preceding don- chain of the loop; repeat from *, but in chain succeeding the first 9 singles, of the preceding pattern. work 4 singles around the un unooccun- pied chain spsces of the last row. 3d row.—A double on the next, 2 chain, pass 2. No. 1000. Hovse Darss.—The model shown may be made of mousseline de laine or of India mlk. The skirt 1s bordered all around with a shirred flounee ten inches deep. The front is taken up slightly on the hips, and the back pleated in two broad box pleats. The bodice has cout-a-way jacket fronts with short, broad, lace covered revers OCross-sryren Desiox.—This pret design is to be worked 1n cross-sti i as & border for children’s gingham For this purpose washa | embroidery cottons should be weed. { This design is also very preity whem used as a border for tray cloths, or as an ornamented band for stools, cash- jonas, ete. | If used for the latter purpose ik | should be worked with wools on cane | dresses. | YAR, inn A PO AS Maxz but few exy nations; the char | moter that cannot ( plend itself is nok worth vindiesting. Tur best dressed woman in the world is smd to be Queen Margherita, of Italy. She seldom wears a dress more { than onoe. | Goon intentions are at least the seed | of good actions; and every man ought to sow them, and leave it to the soil i and seasons whether they come up or no, or whether he or any other gathers | the fruit Mus. Zeneroa G. Warnnace, the ven- erable mother of General Lew Wallace, is now in her seventy-fourth year, but she still lectures with eloquence and enthusiasm on her favorite theme of woman's suffrage. She has this season addressed large andiences in Washing ton and the large cities of the West. { Helen Marshall Novthin the N. Y. Ledger.) Cherry Ratler Pudding The cherry dasa 15 a short ons on thas side of the | Rockies. In San Francisco eat cherries for four ah of “the year and not make yourself ask ‘either. Beat three eggs, add a pint swoot milk, hall a teaspoon fal of melt led butter and three and a half coups lof flan ited with two. | hea tome spoonsfal of baking powder. one pint of stoned cherries drones from juice and dred with flour | into a buttered mold, stand in a boiling water and boil without for three hours,
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