*
OUR PARIS LETTER,
“Too many flowed,” gays Calchas,
his head wisely tipp: d to one ride as if
deciding a very momentous question,
“Too many amusements,” we reply
somewhat snappishly; bazars for char-
ity, representations given at private
houses before the elite, ostensibly for
the benefit of some poor unfortunate,
balls, weddings, flower fetes, races,
ete, eto., oceupying all our time and
exhausting all our energies!
It 18 true that we have in return the
great pleasure of admiring many very
pretty things, for the women have
never displayed more taste, more artis-
fic invention, and a greater delicacy of
tact in arranging their ocstumes than
in the present season. The combina-
tion of materials, of colors and of trim-
mings is now mapaged with such won-
derful intuition that one cannot help
being charmed with the delieate, dainty
costumes that are produced.
Sheath or bell-shaped skirts still pre-
vail, very long, smooth at the top and
expanding towards the bottom. The
front breadth is made to fit smoothly
by means of darts, and the other
breadths are simply draped on each
gide and cut on the bias at the top.
Whatever may be necessary to give ful-
mess to the skirt is added to each side
of the front bresdth, while the sheath
form is obtained by the bias seam
wh ch joins the two parts of the skirt
in the back. Foundation skirts are
now but seldom used, the skirt being
lined with milk and supported in the
back by two or three fr ou-frou flounnces,
Sometimes, if the skirt is very
and the material heavy, it is lined with
light muslin with a broad hem of silk
faced up on the right side. We hasten
to say that all the world does not fol-
low this fashion of skirts, so clinging
to the form and at the same time so
embarrassing.
Among the novel things that we have
admired, sometimes at the races, some-
times at the at the ‘Petit
Trianon,” we will describe for our
readers a pretty robe of periwinkle
gicilienne trimmed with cicada velvet.
The skirt, in sheath shape, had three
narrow pleated ruflles set under the
lower edge; the front, almost to the
waist, ornamented in the Directoire
style. The ronnd waist was encireled
by fi deep girdle of cicada velvet fast-
ened by a gold buckle. The pl
bodice was simply gathered at
waist-line. For trimming, two bretel
of velvet losing themselves in the ¢
dle both in front and back. and each
passing through a buckle of gold over
the chest. Siraight sleeves finished by
plain cuffs. This costume was a work
of art, but of a simplicity most charm-
ing and attractive,
Another costume was of mere
embroidered with arabesques
jet. Clinging skirt with deep
of embroidery; embroider)
were also placed at the bottom
waist, on the hips, descending in the
back to the bottom of the skirt, and
edging the fan-shaped breadth of the
train. The bodice, buttoned at the
left, was very close fitting with fronts
of embroidered lace. Sleeves a lg
ftalienne, in lace, with smooth enffs
Many skirts are trimmed at the
lower edge, which gives to the extreme
simplicity of these long gowns a very
stylish effect. A ruche, a puff of vel
vet, pipings or a flounce of lace are the
kind of trimmings usdally seen Vests
without sleeves are largely wora as
they are found to be so practical,
At the Salon of the Champ de
the princess i geen
toilette of black sici and a jacke
of black eloth dotted with jet shot. Th
short pointed sleeves of this jacket per-
mitted to be seen the i he
sicilienne bodice; a black
feathers surrounded the arm-holes
faced the Medici collarand ornamented
the fronts,
A pretty model in gray cloth was
irimmed with narrow rows of steel and
gold braid; the fronts were widely open
on the bodice of the gown, and a row
of flat buttons in gray silk were placed
on each side just above the waist line.
Straight sleeves and plain enffla. With
this was worn a small hat of brown
straw trimmed with knots of skv-blae
satin. :
The little ones follow very rapidly
in the footsteps of their elders as far
as dress is concerned. A giri of eight
woars a coat of moss-colored surah with
yoke and collar of bronze velvet; large
sleeves with smooth cuffs of the same
velvet. A hat of tobacco-colored straw
faced with moss-colored talle and
trimmed with ribbons of the same
shade. Another, a baby of scarcely
two years, 1s dressed in a cloak of rose
colored faille ornamen‘ed with Irish
guipure. The fronts are crossed and
ornamented with double rows of but-
tons; the long skirts has pocket laps
and the revers are enlarged by a trim-
ming of gnipure, Large hat of rose-
colored lawn veiled with lace and pink
plumes,
fetes
ITY-Qray
Of hine
border
designs
of the
V¢ irs,
8. was lately 11
ltenne
a
t
e
Frrion Lesrie,
———— to
Br. —No, 1104, Straight
il draped to form
with straight
[he plain front is
with small embroidered
bows half way up the skirt.
STRAIGHT SKI
skirt in plain materi
paniers on the hips and
At the lower point of the bodice in
the back is placed long loops and ends
ot black velvet ribbon.
No. 1107. rrosr
No. 1108, Crasmiserres — These shirt
fronts are to be worn with a
dress which is ent down at the throat, |
The one at the left of the eutis of |
light blne Chambery, with the hem
down the middle of the front, and the |
narrow tie at the throat of white lawn, |
A second is of pink Chambery, witha |
band of 1usertion down the middle, and |
a narrow tie of white lawn at
edge of the collar with turned
points.
The third eollar in the group is
jue, with a band of
into the
collar bound with
LHATTOW
VIEW,
&
with a
and
white tie,
pink
od with a
finisl white
No.
made of silk or woo
mounted in very fuli pl
is plain and trimmed at t
pleated flon
I'he stra
1105, skirt
and is
the front
ot with a
18
1 ¥ i 11.
points and falls
po
ng of braid.
ine mm ing, the
i witha atiteh-
nts being embroidere
No. 1107. naox vw,
No. 1108, Gowx ron A Laws Parry.
~1This charming model is made of
cream-colored foulard dotted with
bouquets of scarlet flowers and trimmed
with cream lace and scarlet ribbons.
Plain skirt of fonlard with the left side
ornamented with a draped redingote
side of the some materia! edged with
lace, the right side is trimmed by long
loops and ends of ribbon dependin
from the bread ribbon belt, The full
bodice is gathered at the neck, and
closed on the left side under a bretelle
of lace which descends from the shonld-
er and meets the flonnce upon the skirt,
Full sleeves, half long, finished with a
frill of lace and band with knot of rib-
bon. High draped collar. Hat of
white lace straw trimmed with wild
flowers, scarlet ribbon ned lace,
No. 1107. Bvumen Goww., — This
gown may be made of any light mater.
1 such as challi, foulard, ete. The
skirt is pleated in the back and draped
on the hips and In front so as to sum-
ulate small paniers; the bottom is fin-
ished with a deep flounce of the dress
goods set on to form a heading. The
bodice is plain, pointed in the front,
alight] at the neck and is trim-
med w retellos of black lace headed
by narrow bisck velvet ribbon. Flar-
LE
This suit is made of dark blue }
trimmed with bands of white on wl
are lines of red The drawers
and waist are made separate and joined
by a broad band; the plastron, orns-
mented with embroidered anchor,
is sewed to the left front and buttoned
underneath the right side,
sontache,
Aan
No. 11090
No. 1110. Barmisa Car.—For
nse light oiled silk. The crown and cape
are cut together but separate from the
front, to which they sre joined with a
row of braid. The back of the
pinked at the edge, while the front is
ornamented with a pleated ruche made
of a graduated strip of the milk pinked
at the edges.
No 1111,
No. 112
JaTnrxg Bormr.—
blouse and draw-
The top of the
No. 1111. Giryr's
| This suit is cut with
ers forming one piece,
blouse is cut square in the neck and
| finished with broad bands buttoned
{ on the shoulders; the fulness at the
| waist is confined by gathers and con-
| cenled beneath s buttoned belt. The
bottom of the drawers are gathered
| and finished with a band and frill of
the same material. Any pretty striped
flannel may used for this model.
No, 1112. Onere Prastrox.—Mater-
inks: red erepe and cream-
colored tulle, en with small
gold buttons, and pale green ribbons,
This fall i lastron has st the top two
| pufls of crepe bordered by three strips
3 namented with gold but
tons; high eollar in ribbon ed
ple ated crep 1 closed bya
ribbon. The bottom of the plastron is
gate red at the line and finished
by a flonnee of embroidered tulle and
a full bow of ribbon.
Deg
Maize-col
Wbroidered
of r bit
knot of
waist
HOT WEATHER COOKERY.
| It is a fact that never are soups mors
| welcome than in summer, Not heavy
| meat or dried vegetable soups, but
light oonsommes and broths made
| from veal, poultry and green wvege-
tables. We have simplified one of the
most delicious soups of a great artist
whieh, if you will not let the name
| frighten you, we will still call
!
Careme,—Put over
the fire in your soup kettle the carcass
| of one or more roasted chickens, a ten
| cent knuckle of veal and some roast
if yon have them, and
cover with a quart of water for every
| pound of meat and bones lot this
{come toa boil slowly, and add the
| nsual soup vegetables; mmmer four
hours and strain. This broth will
transparent, nourishing, and of a rich
| yellow color. Hemove the fat, if any,
from the t Wp, anda retarn it to the fire
| with a teacupful of carrot, turmip and
leek for each three pints of the broth.
The carrot and turnip should be peeled
{ and then cut in wafer-like slices, hals
| ing and quartering the slices of tur
i mip if large: simmer until they are
tender and finish with a few spoonsful
| of asparagus tips parboiled until tender
n Bhiling water. Cut some thin slices
of bread, butter them, cut in small
{ice and dry in the oven; put them in
| the tnreen and pour the soup over.
This is not a troublesome or expensive
soup if youn take the opportunity
| make it when you have the materials
on hand. The turnips and carrots can
be those left from yesterday's dinner,
{| as also the asparagus, in which case
| they will poed only to be made bot in
| the broth
| Ouweumber Soup.—This is a delight.
ful warm weather soup. Have ready
such a broth as that given above, but
instead of adding turnip, carrot and
{ looks, add encumbers prepared as fol-
| lows: Pare two medium-sized oncum-
bers, remove the seeds with an apple
loorer and fill with chicken or weal
{ forcemeat; place them in a sancepan
{| with thin shoes of salt pork and enough
broth to cover; cook ly for half an
hour; lift them out and when partially
cool out in round slices half an inch
thiok; lay these in a soup tureen with
some dice of dried bread and pour over
the hot broth. The broth in which the
cucumbers were cooked may be strained
and set aside for use another day.
Consomme a la
| beef bones,
1 3
to
Gooseberry Cream.—Boil a pound
of green gooseberries; drain, and when
ooo] press through a fine seve; swan ten
to taste with white sagar and add doub-
le the quantity of sweet cream whipped
stiff. Serve in little china or glass
cups with sponge cake or lady fin-
gers.
Frozen Cherries. Stone a quart of
sour cherries, cover with one pound
of sugar and let them stand for an
hour or two, then stir until the sugar
is dissolved, add a pint of water and
freeze,
Jolly. ~All small fruit jellies are
difficult to make because care enough
is not taken in the selection of the
fruit an | in expressing the juice, Let
the berries be rather under than over
ripe; put them in a stone jar, stand
this in a larger vessel of cold water. set
over the fire, and boil until the fruit is
soft, keeping it covered, Squeeze out
through a jelly bag, and allow a ponnd
of sugar to each pint of juice. Heat
the sugar in the oven, in earthern
dishes, and boil the janice twenty min.
utes from the time boiling commences,
add the hot sugar, and as soon as dis.
solved fill the oly tumblers. The
writer has never
BY MINNIE A. BARNEY,
peope of the amateur wood-carver’s
kill is the imitation of inlaid work, It
is rapidly and easily done, and artistic
enough to gratify the most esthetic
taste,
A veiner of the smallest size, 1. ¢,
one thirty-seeond of an inch, is the
only tool needed. The other requis
ites are a fine water-color paintbrush
and a small quantity of unsiacked lime,
The wood must be either cherry or ma-
hogany.
We will suppose that the firet arti-
eles for experimenting upon are a
writing tablet, ten by fourteen inches,
one-fourth inch thick, and a bangle
board twelve and a hall inches long
the former sketeh scross the
left-hand corner a spray of wild
lets and grasses, and the words from
Shakespeare: ‘‘Devise, wit, write,
pen.” On the bangle board outline
a half dozen butterflies in flight,
Follow carefully with the
the pencil marks, then
face with ar
abont two table
ciean
and
the o« I.
mixture as paint, cover ti
vy coating and
add enor
msisteney of
a ne
it off with a stiff brush
coat will be needed if the design
several shades darker than the
ground
When the contrast is
the work satisfactory,
face with turpentine and
with a cont of raw linseed
rubbed in with a woolen cloth.
twenty-four hours for the absorption
of the oil and then dress the surface
with a thin polish of white shellac dis-
solved 1n aleohol Alternate the treat-
ment with the oil and
times, always
back-
suff and
Eur-
ent
clean the
oil,
Allow
.
allowing
opening on a pleated vest. The sides’
and back sre lengthened by a shirred
flounce eleven inches deep. A velvet
ribbon belt crosses the front twice and
hangs in a long bow at the left side.
i Esmseomenep Iwviriare This illus.
| tration shows the latest designs in eme
! broidered initisls for marking bed
| linen.
LA
ER NS
CASE YOR PARABOLA AND UMEBRELLAS,
—This usef of thick
brown Hal embroid-
ered in and bine
cotton, using a pret tern, The
front and back of are bound
with broad For the
back a piece of d rial thirty-
three and one balf inches and
seventeen wide at
the upper end, and nine snd three-
fourth inches wi wer end is
req L which the
pockets are | of a rquare
of Hollan« niv-s1x and three fourth
placed on the back
ve after the mater
in at the lower
x pleats each of
the same ith of nine and
three fourth inches he hollow of
each pis nt 1 fastened to the back of
the case with a length of braid stitehed
{ on; the for the
sud for the loops
1
Pe
3 +
ii Cas 5 made
scarlet
wong
1 v | y
anaq ue x : InCcLes
ire
: he latter also ng used
Vandykes at the top,
{ by which it is hung n
cations,
A word to the designer
oY erlapping
whole treatment should be
silhouette,
leaves as possible,
that
this unique style of decoration
continue to suggest themselves to
worker if he has never so little
ality. Glove boxes, portfolios, table-
tops and essels are all among the pos-
bi The accompanving buttercup
design is suitable for a frame for
inet photographs
the
origin-
ites,
Ena
suitable
Crore ren
chet edge is
and is made as follows.
ist row. —* 17 chain,
EY, ~The
Conxen ror A Haxpreson
pretty design is worked in tambour
stiteh, the filling in French knot and
the branches 1n out line stitch,
erochet around the first 5
loop, 6 chain,
ing 6 chain, separating the 2d and 3d,
5th and 6th, and 8th and 9th, of the
doubles by a pioot (for a picot 4 chain
and a slip stitch on the preceding don-
chain of the loop; repeat from *, but in
chain succeeding the first 9 singles,
of the preceding pattern.
work 4 singles around the un unooccun-
pied chain spsces of the last row.
3d row.—A double on the next, 2
chain, pass 2.
No. 1000. Hovse Darss.—The model
shown may be made of mousseline de
laine or of India mlk. The skirt 1s
bordered all around with a shirred
flounee ten inches deep. The front is
taken up slightly on the hips, and the
back pleated in two broad box pleats.
The bodice has cout-a-way jacket fronts
with short, broad, lace covered revers
OCross-sryren Desiox.—This pret
design is to be worked 1n cross-sti
i as & border for children’s gingham
For this purpose washa
| embroidery cottons should be weed.
{ This design is also very preity whem
used as a border for tray cloths, or as
an ornamented band for stools, cash-
jonas, ete.
| If used for the latter purpose ik
| should be worked with wools on cane
| dresses.
| YAR,
inn A PO AS
Maxz but few exy nations; the char
| moter that cannot ( plend itself is nok
worth vindiesting.
Tur best dressed woman in the world
is smd to be Queen Margherita, of
Italy. She seldom wears a dress more
{ than onoe.
| Goon intentions are at least the seed
| of good actions; and every man ought
to sow them, and leave it to the soil
i and seasons whether they come up or
no, or whether he or any other gathers
| the fruit
Mus. Zeneroa G. Warnnace, the ven-
erable mother of General Lew Wallace,
is now in her seventy-fourth year, but
she still lectures with eloquence and
enthusiasm on her favorite theme of
woman's suffrage. She has this season
addressed large andiences in Washing
ton and the large cities of the West.
{ Helen Marshall Novthin the N. Y.
Ledger.)
Cherry Ratler Pudding The cherry
dasa 15 a short ons on thas side of the
| Rockies. In San Francisco
eat cherries for four ah of “the
year and not make yourself ask
‘either. Beat three eggs, add a pint
swoot milk, hall a teaspoon fal of melt
led butter and three and a half coups
lof flan ited with two. | hea tome
spoonsfal of baking powder.
one pint of stoned cherries drones
from juice and dred with flour
| into a buttered mold, stand in a
boiling water and boil without
for three hours,