OUR PARIS LETTER. There are no new novelties, which 3 ean properly be so called, appearing just now and which are so characteris tic of the fashion; but a great many little details of sll sorts, which give a necmlew ahagande and grace to the toi- Jette, are visible at all the leading mod- istes. For instance, we find that the dress skirts are now worn pain, almost without any orpament, while the under- gkirt fairly bristles with the most ele gant of decorations. Deneath a cos- tume of cloth, very modest, haying = straight skirt slightly trained is seen, when the skirt is the least bit raised, an elegant under-skirt in silk of the sam: shade as the cloth, trimmed with a flounce of lace and a band of velvet cut in vandykes. With a robe of foulard e:tremely simple, the nnder-skirt is in silk trimmed with a flounnce of Greek tul e ornamented with three ribbous of black moire. The ornamentation of these skirts, has become an absolute passion, which has never been ex- celled, Of course it is necessary that luxury should have a pretext, that 1t shoud make for itself a place. It conld never adapt itcelf to these plain exteriors, so it nestles in the almost invisible folds of a skirt and displays itself under a thousand charming aspects, There is no more difficulty in match- ing the under-skirt with the costume; formeriy the under-skirt was gray with a gray costume; beige with a robe of this shade, but more often black, es- pecially if one was not able to match the robe. To-day that is not consider- ed, but only how to produce an agree- | able ‘‘en semble” which shall not, how- ever, be too striking. A robe of black silk or tulle will have an under-skirt in changeable silk with ‘“rou-fron” flonaces; while a dep flounce of black tulle striped with satin ribbon will sub- due, somewhat, the sharp brilliancy of the changeable silk. This “make up” of the under-skirt is a very new fash- ion, and ome that 1s essentially fem- | inine, i The cote de cheval, a sort of ribbed i goods, of which we Lave spoken be-| fore, with the light colored wvigognes! continue to be In great favor. ‘This | fine ribbed design is scen even on the | crepons. A tobacco eolored ecrepon, with this desivn, had a long skirt, with small train cut on the bias; the corsage vest opens on a waistcoat of silk of the same shade, was cut decollefe at the A The decollete vest was veiled by a empiccement in Venetian guipure cut | in long pointed teeth. Under these | points was another piece of guip covering the entire waistcoat, (nd so | arranged that 1ts deep points reached | to the lower edge of the basque. The revers, bordered with a little picot of of brown gnipure, like the empicce- ment, edged the opening of the vest. Another extremely pretty robe, seen | at Longchamp, was in rose-colored vigogne variegated with b ack. The orna- ments, both elegant and new, were of fine jot points and edged the bottom of the tlounce. Three rows of ti were placed on the apron front, two inches as ended sides of thetablier winated heig The WRALEe COLCER basquesn der the , and was red round the waist with a row of jet points and leaves which reached tl centre of the back. Two re i y faille corsa ut ¢ the J ese Jol ab apart, and ing: (ire borde i Tr sy BOT- 8 OVEr arranged flat So great 18 the that from their | | ruipure, forming a guimpe. rage for this every one brings forth hiding places all the old laces | or guipures and finds a thous | and exquisite waysof utilizing them, | The malines, valenciennes, English | poiat, ete., are used to frame the plas- | trons of muslin, white silk, or those of colored silks. Very long plastrons | mounted with ample fallness round the | straight collar and trimmed with a beautiful flounce of lace are very charm- | ing, not only for the interior of a vest | but also for a corsage. Sometimes the | plastron, mounted as a chemisette, is adjusted to the body by a belt as an in set to a jacket. A flounce of lace isplaced | unite simply, crosswise, a little below | the chest, Irish and Venetian gunipure | prove especially effective for the pret- | tiest costumes, | With the large scarfs of ancient! blond and the deep flounces of Chan- | tilly are made very beautiful, elegant | and deligh tinily dressy camails. The | flounce and the back forms the body | of the mantle, with little bits of sleeves | forming epaulettes; all thisis of straw colored silk or peau de soie embroid- ered in various ways. The scarf or Ia a season, No. 1054 flounce is supported at the edge of the shoulders aud jasses over the body of the varment, which it completes, in a most styiish m.nner, Frrior Lesiie, No, 105!, Drcerrioy Torrerre.—The model 1lla trated is of dark gren ben- g line and bewge-colored velvet, ‘1 he short treind back is ent with bodice and skirt in «ne, while the fronts of the skirt and boiice sre joined. The bengaine skirt is ed: ed at front and bottom with a ruche of the same fabri -, and opens on u v lvet tablier which is ornamente i with a long fringed tab of mssementerie at the middle. The odice has a velvet plastron covered with passementerie and surrounded with bengal ne ruches, whilethe sleeves of bengaline terminate in deep cuffs of velvet und passementerie beaded by a ruche. No. 1055. Wepprxa Gows, — White bh is n form Princess: arate ered with al wsna under ‘ ite silk bor } foot of the fron } DRCK, thie No slender vine of neck. ‘lhe sleeves are { ed to a des Pp lace enfy, tha t $8 i {oy The front tooned bi we beneath front § ’ i Orange IRONS showing Other clus skirt and on 3 | No. 1059. No. 10%. Fovrarp Goww, — The bodice of this gown has a pointed front and basque back. The front has a yoke of white embroidery, to which the silk is shirred with a heading, the fullness being drawn in pleats to a point at the waist. The back is without a yoke and pleated, the pleats being turned from either side toward the middle. The sleeves are full, with deep close cuffs of embroidery and a ruffle of embroid- ery with a ribbon bow crosses the shoulder. Bows are also placed at the elbow and the yoke, and at the belted vint of the bodice. The plain skirt angs straight in the back and is drap- ed in front by small folds on the hips. No. 1057, Uspen-Sxrnrs, Our first model is a skirt of gray alpaca; the front and side breadths are gored and the back breadth straight. It is finish- ed at the top with a round belt and draw-strings. The bottom is trimmed with a box-pleating about eight inches deep, lined with foundation and orna- mented with black silk feather-stitoh- ing. Foe other two skirts are made of changeable taffeta and trimmed with pinked raflies of the same. The upper one has two ruffles, one plain, the ot. er cut in deep scallops. The lower skirt is ornamented with three ruffles, the two lower ones being four inches deep and plain, while the upper one is about eight inches deep and out into deep Jotelios wheh are tucked in narrow oka, No. 1058, represents two leather belts to be worn with lawn tennis cos- tumes, No. 10560, Traverva Cosromn, —The material of this gown ms cwir-colored wool of light weight, trimmed with silk of a darker shade. The founda- tion skirt is of light silk, and the wool , overskirt opens on =» uatod ” is panel of silk. on the bias, are fastened Bands of silk placed cross this panel and with silk buttons, has a plated by silk tabs fastened with buttons like A row of but. wrist almost to the el. ornaments the high shoulder the flaring collar is of silk. Neapolitan straw orna mented with black ostrich tips. of black ii aii nted plastron of embroider ATI god with embr idery. 68s roid- of wide ribbon are pl the neck and at the bottom of the pointed plastron. 13 I} ¢ i 06 y made of em flat collar Ce No. 1061. Somuur Har.—Uapote of gray straw edged with a ORCS oes of narrow lemon colored baby ribbon; fan pleatings of white muslin chiffon surrounds the crown and a cluster of yellow flowers is placed in the centre of the front. The crown is of white lace and steol-jetted net; jetted lace leaves and butterfly in the k. Strings of gray velvet ribbon faced with lemon- colored satin, A Wisin Nome is small in God's sight. The tiny flower which your eye can scarcely sec may be just as perfect as the most showy plants in the garden. The smallest diamond may be as brilliant as the Koohinor, or the largest gems that flash in the crowns of kings, So the lonst nots may be just as beautiful, as nre, as honorable, as the greatest eods that shine in dazzling splendor before men. an -——— THE VOICE WITHIN, $ tle Quaker gir! one day ansed in her busy round of play, As her dear mother came that way. She whispered 1h Hot others o Ho low that no one ¢ Her mother answered, “Hy nothing wrong be voles wi t or gy eon hear y REE EL. ak he samec says, ‘Nay. FANCY WORK, At Inst, we have a new name for em- broidery vpon canvas, a work which the many other varieties of fancy work whach have lately appeared. ‘“Ivory work” owes its pame to the fact that, however varied are the colors us d for the outlines, the fillings are alwavs executed with white or cream silk, or cotton, This work has a certain faint, it must be confessed, resemblance to inlaid ivory, and perhaps that has given to it the name; it is not difficult to execnte and the work possesses a great atiraction, therefore we shall ex- pect to see it become very popular this season. The desigus form scrolls, stars, leaves, and sprays, all of which, from the very nature of the canvas, mast be somewhat stiff, though much less formal than those usually worked upon this material. The great draw back of “‘eounting’ is almost entirely obviated by baving the design marked on the canvas. The filling in and the outiin- ing, requir: s but little counting, ouly enough to get the stitches of the right length. The different fillings constitute the variety of the patterns, for there are numberiess pretty stitches, and combinations of stitches, which are suitable for this work. We will give a few of the most effective, but besides these there are cross snd tgut stitch, darning and herring bone, both plain and fancy, in fact apy siitch that can possibly be worked on canvas may be used in ivory we ok. of ar ght threads Are mis the No. 1, consists each t ken over {i I'wo threads stitch. In stitehe with They are threads, two a line with the set of ot In every of the saline upri Canvas tween rows the each miternats row also of these lower hall tches, second row, stitches passed through t Lole tn which the lower ous the ur per er a rough ing stitches are repeated, but are slop- ed in the oppo ite direction; the fourth is cross-stitor, and the fifth stripe is like the firse, atlinut bil [a Rd So a” Ig nt 775 Re FTL et gary g LA mtd ll TT Tr 7 [and Ftd) 1 ni a Lhe next pattern, No. 5, 18 very eas. ly worked. It forms a lattice over the surface of the canvas, each stitch being taken in a slanting direction over three threads, An ordinary cross-stitch is worked over the two middle stiches of the open squares thus made. At each sogle of the lattice is worked a straight stitch over two threads: these are ar- ranged so as to be vertieal in one row sud horizontal in the next, and cause the lines of the lattice to look as though they were composed each of one long strand of cotton held down by these short stitches ‘ bE NBER fh fp Spee { “thes HB 1 har First, us hh over and itches 18 nd than ring four, and wzenge with the In the second must previ- must as the uUver six. very close, a set of slat ting n over two threads is made w of | lersto 8 iin two paris. in two threa ne Over wid onger by one thr that whic) over gix then begin an her k work » tiresds ver six threads t stitch of the he shortest stitch the s:me hole line stite paitern done al ai iy iat the «yy I8 MOTeé COIN entire s 1 hyasd is taken « Lreads Le second Tow are we tig as Int ternately, « slanting upwards The slanting stitch springs from the bottom of the straight stiteh, and the straight stitches J ass through the same hole as the top of the slanting stitches, I'he first and third rows consist of hor izontal stitches, each passing through the same hole as the upright and slant- ing stitches of the previous row. The fourth line consists alternately of one upright and one slanting stitch, the latter slanting downwards right instead of upwards from right t left as in the second row. After this 1s worked another line of horizontal stitches, and the work is repeated from the second row. vy fered $5804) upright stitcn left 38% 4 8) to right, from iw Lada 2, hd a - “1H PP ” En “uly a AG Tek Th In No. 3, the Leviathan stitches are worked in rows, with two threads left between them in each direction. The crosses are then enclosed in a square by working round them four long stitches over six threads. The point where four of these stitches meet is covered with a small cross-stitch slant- ing over two threads TER, TIE TA inline Me LT ARES IRREPIIIER TE A Fey filling is shown in No. 4 which is more effective upon a large surface then when the sarface is small The first stripe consists of stitohes over three threads slanting downwards from left to right, each stitch being placed © below the ding one. The ts morely of oross- stitohes, each taken over two a. heard —Betscted. of canvas, In the third stripe the siant- il Blzes, and o h this Frencl thread canvar ox sammy cloth is the material most gen- erally used as a back ground. brush and mb amented wit Ringie Two Tempting Dishes. You will find the following a nice lit tle dish for breakfast: First cut some nice thin slices from the fillet of veal. Sprinkle over cach a little minced parsley, a little chopped shalot, and one dressed mushroom: lay on this a lump of batter, a flileted an- chovy, dust over it a little cayenne pepper and salt; roll the slices up sep- arately, and fasten them with fine skewers to protect the stuffing. Put each of these tid-bits into a well-but- tered writing paper; screwed at each corner to form a case. Lay themon a gridiron, on which you have previously placed a sheet of buttered paper, hold it over a slow, clear fire; turn the out. lets without disarranging the wrappers; serve them on some well: butterod tenn on a very hot dish. While these are cooking, pare a dozen fine Spanish olives round and round, as yon would an apple, close to the store, without breaking the continuity of the Have ready a dozen blanched fillets of anchovies, squeeze over each a few drops of juice from a lemon, and a grain or two of cayenne. Then put them carefully through the olives, keeping the fruit in its original shape. Lay them on slices of lemon, and are range them prettily round the dish. If you want a pretty little “surprise” dish that will first puzzle and then ene chant the children, try this simulation of bacon and ergs: Dissolve and mix together in an en- ameled stewpan one quart of mil one gill of cream and two ounces ol isinginss, sweetened and flavored with lemon. Stir it one way until it comes to & boil, then strain it through a sieve into five different jugs. Color one with chocolate, another with cochineal and a third with saffron. Now into a dish which has been well soaked in cold water the chocolate liquid about the thickness of the rind of bacon: when it is set, pour over it one of the white mixtures; when that is firm, pour over it the red, then just a suspicion of the chooolate mixture. This will form the bacon. Put it away on ice to set. Now take half-a-dozen small patty pans, which have also been well soaked in cold water, and pour the remaining white jelly Into them. When these ure set, pour in the saffron mixture, in such a manner as to resemble poached egen. The jelly that has been put on the ice will now be ready; ent it isto thin slices, arrange it on a dish as you would bacon, Remove the eo from the moulds, place them in uniform ore der ayer the bacon and garnish parsley, June is from J of | _— favorite month for i) ai the pat-on staing therefore, the 8
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