OUR PARIS LETTER.
There are no new novelties, which 3
ean properly be so called, appearing
just now and which are so characteris
tic of the fashion; but a great many
little details of sll sorts, which give a
necmlew ahagande and grace to the toi-
Jette, are visible at all the leading mod-
istes. For instance, we find that the
dress skirts are now worn pain, almost
without any orpament, while the under-
gkirt fairly bristles with the most ele
gant of decorations. Deneath a cos-
tume of cloth, very modest, haying =
straight skirt slightly trained is seen,
when the skirt is the least bit raised, an
elegant under-skirt in silk of the sam:
shade as the cloth, trimmed with a
flounce of lace and a band of velvet cut
in vandykes. With a robe of foulard
e:tremely simple, the nnder-skirt is in
silk trimmed with a flounnce of Greek
tul e ornamented with three ribbous of
black moire. The ornamentation of
these skirts, has become an absolute
passion, which has never been ex-
celled,
Of course it is necessary that luxury
should have a pretext, that 1t shoud
make for itself a place. It conld never
adapt itcelf to these plain exteriors, so
it nestles in the almost invisible folds
of a skirt and displays itself under a
thousand charming aspects,
There is no more difficulty in match-
ing the under-skirt with the costume;
formeriy the under-skirt was gray with
a gray costume; beige with a robe of
this shade, but more often black, es-
pecially if one was not able to match
the robe. To-day that is not consider-
ed, but only how to produce an agree- |
able ‘‘en semble” which shall not, how-
ever, be too striking. A robe of black
silk or tulle will have an under-skirt
in changeable silk with ‘“rou-fron”
flonaces; while a dep flounce of black
tulle striped with satin ribbon will sub-
due, somewhat, the sharp brilliancy of
the changeable silk. This “make up”
of the under-skirt is a very new fash-
ion, and ome that 1s essentially fem- |
inine, i
The cote de cheval, a sort of ribbed i
goods, of which we Lave spoken be-|
fore, with the light colored wvigognes!
continue to be In great favor. ‘This |
fine ribbed design is scen even on the |
crepons. A tobacco eolored ecrepon,
with this desivn, had a long skirt, with
small train cut on the bias; the corsage
vest opens on a waistcoat of silk of the
same shade, was cut decollefe at the A
The decollete vest was veiled by a
empiccement in Venetian guipure cut |
in long pointed teeth. Under these |
points was another piece of guip
covering the entire waistcoat, (nd so |
arranged that 1ts deep points reached |
to the lower edge of the basque. The
revers, bordered with a little picot of
of brown gnipure, like the empicce-
ment, edged the opening of the vest.
Another extremely pretty robe, seen |
at Longchamp, was in rose-colored
vigogne variegated with b ack. The orna-
ments, both elegant and new, were of
fine jot points and edged the bottom of
the tlounce. Three rows of ti
were placed on the apron front,
two inches as ended
sides of thetablier winated heig
The WRALEe COLCER basquesn der
the , and was red round the
waist with a row of jet points and
leaves which reached tl centre of the
back. Two re i y faille
corsa
ut
¢
the
J
ese Jol
ab
apart, and
ing:
(ire borde
i Tr
sy BOT-
8 OVEr
arranged flat
So great 18 the
that
from their |
| ruipure,
forming a guimpe.
rage for this
every one brings forth
hiding places all the old laces |
or guipures and finds a thous |
and exquisite waysof utilizing them, |
The malines, valenciennes, English |
poiat, ete., are used to frame the plas- |
trons of muslin, white silk, or those of
colored silks. Very long plastrons |
mounted with ample fallness round the |
straight collar and trimmed with a
beautiful flounce of lace are very charm- |
ing, not only for the interior of a vest |
but also for a corsage. Sometimes the |
plastron, mounted as a chemisette, is
adjusted to the body by a belt as an in
set to a jacket. A flounce of lace isplaced |
unite simply, crosswise, a little below |
the chest, Irish and Venetian gunipure |
prove especially effective for the pret- |
tiest costumes, |
With the large scarfs of ancient!
blond and the deep flounces of Chan- |
tilly are made very beautiful, elegant |
and deligh tinily dressy camails. The |
flounce and the back forms the body |
of the mantle, with little bits of sleeves |
forming epaulettes; all thisis of straw
colored silk or peau de soie embroid-
ered in various ways. The scarf or
Ia a season,
No. 1054
flounce is supported at the edge of the
shoulders aud jasses over the body of
the varment, which it completes, in a
most styiish m.nner,
Frrior Lesiie,
No, 105!, Drcerrioy Torrerre.—The
model 1lla trated is of dark gren ben-
g line and bewge-colored velvet, ‘1 he
short treind back is ent with bodice
and skirt in «ne, while the fronts of
the skirt and boiice sre joined. The
bengaine skirt is ed: ed at front and
bottom with a ruche of the same fabri -,
and opens on u v lvet tablier which is
ornamente i with a long fringed tab of
mssementerie at the middle. The
odice has a velvet plastron covered
with passementerie and surrounded
with bengal ne ruches, whilethe sleeves
of bengaline terminate in deep cuffs of
velvet und passementerie beaded by a
ruche.
No. 1055. Wepprxa Gows, — White
bh is n form
Princess:
arate
ered with al
wsna
under ‘
ite silk bor
} foot of the fron
} DRCK, thie
No
slender vine of
neck. ‘lhe sleeves are {
ed to a des Pp lace enfy,
tha t $8 i
{oy
The front
tooned
bi
we beneath
front
§ ’
i Orange IRONS
showing
Other clus
skirt
and
on
3
|
No. 1059.
No. 10%. Fovrarp Goww, — The
bodice of this gown has a pointed front
and basque back. The front has a yoke
of white embroidery, to which the silk
is shirred with a heading, the fullness
being drawn in pleats to a point at the
waist. The back is without a yoke and
pleated, the pleats being turned from
either side toward the middle. The
sleeves are full, with deep close cuffs
of embroidery and a ruffle of embroid-
ery with a ribbon bow crosses the
shoulder. Bows are also placed at the
elbow and the yoke, and at the belted
vint of the bodice. The plain skirt
angs straight in the back and is drap-
ed in front by small folds on the hips.
No. 1057, Uspen-Sxrnrs, Our first
model is a skirt of gray alpaca; the
front and side breadths are gored and
the back breadth straight. It is finish-
ed at the top with a round belt and
draw-strings. The bottom is trimmed
with a box-pleating about eight inches
deep, lined with foundation and orna-
mented with black silk feather-stitoh-
ing.
Foe other two skirts are made of
changeable taffeta and trimmed with
pinked raflies of the same. The upper
one has two ruffles, one plain, the ot. er
cut in deep scallops. The lower skirt
is ornamented with three ruffles, the
two lower ones being four inches deep
and plain, while the upper one is about
eight inches deep and out into deep
Jotelios wheh are tucked in narrow
oka,
No. 1058, represents two leather
belts to be worn with lawn tennis cos-
tumes,
No. 10560, Traverva Cosromn, —The
material of this gown ms cwir-colored
wool of light weight, trimmed with
silk of a darker shade. The founda-
tion skirt is of light silk, and the wool ,
overskirt opens on =» uatod
”
is
panel of silk.
on the bias,
are fastened
Bands of silk placed
cross this panel and
with silk buttons,
has a plated
by silk tabs fastened with buttons like
A row of but.
wrist almost to the el.
ornaments the high shoulder
the flaring collar is of silk.
Neapolitan straw orna
mented with black ostrich tips.
of black
ii
aii
nted plastron of embroider ATI
god with embr idery.
68s roid-
of wide ribbon are pl
the neck and at the
bottom of the pointed plastron.
13
I} ¢
i 06 y made of em
flat collar
Ce
No. 1061. Somuur Har.—Uapote of
gray straw edged with a ORCS oes
of narrow lemon colored baby ribbon;
fan pleatings of white muslin chiffon
surrounds the crown and a cluster of
yellow flowers is placed in the centre of
the front. The crown is of white lace
and steol-jetted net; jetted lace leaves
and butterfly in the k. Strings of
gray velvet ribbon faced with lemon-
colored satin,
A Wisin
Nome is small in God's sight. The
tiny flower which your eye can scarcely
sec may be just as perfect as the most
showy plants in the garden. The
smallest diamond may be as brilliant as
the Koohinor, or the largest gems that
flash in the crowns of kings, So the
lonst nots may be just as beautiful, as
nre, as honorable, as the greatest
eods that shine in dazzling splendor
before men.
an -———
THE VOICE WITHIN,
$ tle Quaker gir! one day
ansed in her busy round of play,
As her dear mother came that way.
She whispered 1h Hot others o
Ho low that no one ¢
Her mother answered,
“Hy nothing wrong be
voles wi
t or gy
eon hear y
REE EL.
ak he samec says, ‘Nay.
FANCY WORK,
At Inst, we have a new name for em-
broidery vpon canvas, a work which
the many other varieties of fancy work
whach have lately appeared. ‘“Ivory
work” owes its pame to the fact that,
however varied are the colors us d for
the outlines, the fillings are alwavs
executed with white or cream silk, or
cotton, This work has a certain faint,
it must be confessed, resemblance to
inlaid ivory, and perhaps that has
given to it the name; it is not difficult
to execnte and the work possesses a
great atiraction, therefore we shall ex-
pect to see it become very popular this
season. The desigus form scrolls, stars,
leaves, and sprays, all of which, from
the very nature of the canvas, mast be
somewhat stiff, though much less
formal than those usually worked upon
this material. The great draw back of
“‘eounting’ is almost entirely obviated
by baving the design marked on the
canvas. The filling in and the outiin-
ing, requir: s but little counting, ouly
enough to get the stitches of the right
length. The different fillings constitute
the variety of the patterns, for there
are numberiess pretty stitches, and
combinations of stitches, which are
suitable for this work. We will give a
few of the most effective, but besides
these there are cross snd tgut stitch,
darning and herring bone, both plain
and fancy, in fact apy siitch that can
possibly be worked on canvas may be
used in ivory we ok.
of
ar
ght
threads
Are mis
the
No. 1, consists
each t ken over {i
I'wo threads
stitch. In
stitehe
with
They are
threads, two
a line with the
set of ot
In every
of the
saline
upri
Canvas
tween
rows the
each
miternats
row
also
of these
lower hall
tches,
second row,
stitches passed through t
Lole tn which the lower
ous
the ur per er a
rough
ing stitches are repeated, but are slop-
ed in the oppo ite direction; the fourth
is cross-stitor, and the fifth stripe is
like the firse,
atlinut
bil
[a
Rd So
a”
Ig nt 775
Re FTL
et gary g LA
mtd ll TT Tr
7 [and
Ftd)
1 ni
a Lhe next pattern, No. 5, 18 very eas.
ly worked. It forms a lattice over the
surface of the canvas, each stitch being
taken in a slanting direction over three
threads, An ordinary cross-stitch is
worked over the two middle stiches of
the open squares thus made. At each
sogle of the lattice is worked a straight
stitch over two threads: these are ar-
ranged so as to be vertieal in one row
sud horizontal in the next, and cause
the lines of the lattice to look as though
they were composed each of one long
strand of cotton held down by these
short stitches
‘
bE NBER fh fp Spee
{ “thes HB
1 har
First,
us
hh over
and
itches 18
nd than
ring
four, and
wzenge with the
In the second
must
previ-
must
as the
uUver six.
very close,
a set of slat ting
n over two threads is made
w of |
lersto 8
iin two paris.
in
two threa
ne Over wid
onger by one thr
that whic)
over gix
then begin an her k
work
» tiresds
ver six threads
t stitch of the
he shortest stitch
the s:me hole
line stite
paitern
done
al
ai
iy
iat
the
«yy I8 MOTeé COIN
entire s
1 hyasd
is taken « Lreads
Le second Tow are we
tig
as Int
ternately, «
slanting upwards
The slanting stitch springs from the
bottom of the straight stiteh, and the
straight stitches J ass through the same
hole as the top of the slanting stitches,
I'he first and third rows consist of hor
izontal stitches, each passing through
the same hole as the upright and slant-
ing stitches of the previous row. The
fourth line consists alternately of one
upright and one slanting stitch, the
latter slanting downwards
right instead of upwards from right t
left as in the second row. After this 1s
worked another line of horizontal
stitches, and the work is repeated from
the second row.
vy fered $5804)
upright stitcn
left
38% 4
8)
to right,
from
iw Lada
2,
hd
a
-
“1H
PP
”
En “uly a
AG Tek
Th
In No. 3, the Leviathan stitches are
worked in rows, with two threads left
between them in each direction. The
crosses are then enclosed in a square
by working round them four long
stitches over six threads. The point
where four of these stitches meet is
covered with a small cross-stitch slant-
ing over two threads
TER,
TIE TA inline
Me
LT
ARES IRREPIIIER TE
A Fey filling is shown in No. 4
which is more effective upon a large
surface then when the sarface is small
The first stripe consists of stitohes over
three threads slanting downwards from
left to right, each stitch being placed
© below the ding one. The
ts morely of oross-
stitohes, each taken over two
a.
heard
—Betscted.
of canvas, In the third stripe the siant-
il Blzes, and
o
h this
Frencl thread canvar ox
sammy cloth is the material most gen-
erally used as a back ground.
brush and mb
amented wit
Ringie
Two Tempting Dishes.
You will find the following a nice lit
tle dish for breakfast:
First cut some nice thin slices from
the fillet of veal. Sprinkle over cach a
little minced parsley, a little chopped
shalot, and one dressed mushroom: lay
on this a lump of batter, a flileted an-
chovy, dust over it a little cayenne
pepper and salt; roll the slices up sep-
arately, and fasten them with fine
skewers to protect the stuffing. Put
each of these tid-bits into a well-but-
tered writing paper; screwed at each
corner to form a case. Lay themon a
gridiron, on which you have previously
placed a sheet of buttered paper, hold
it over a slow, clear fire; turn the out.
lets without disarranging the wrappers;
serve them on some well: butterod tenn
on a very hot dish. While these are
cooking, pare a dozen fine Spanish
olives round and round, as yon would
an apple, close to the store, without
breaking the continuity of the
Have ready a dozen blanched fillets of
anchovies, squeeze over each a few
drops of juice from a lemon, and a
grain or two of cayenne. Then put
them carefully through the olives,
keeping the fruit in its original shape.
Lay them on slices of lemon, and are
range them prettily round the dish.
If you want a pretty little “surprise”
dish that will first puzzle and then ene
chant the children, try this simulation
of bacon and ergs:
Dissolve and mix together in an en-
ameled stewpan one quart of mil
one gill of cream and two ounces ol
isinginss, sweetened and flavored with
lemon. Stir it one way until it comes
to & boil, then strain it through a sieve
into five different jugs. Color one
with chocolate, another with cochineal
and a third with saffron. Now
into a dish which has been well soaked
in cold water the chocolate liquid about
the thickness of the rind of bacon:
when it is set, pour over it one of the
white mixtures; when that is firm, pour
over it the red, then just a suspicion of
the chooolate mixture. This will form
the bacon. Put it away on ice to set.
Now take half-a-dozen small patty pans,
which have also been well soaked in
cold water, and pour the remaining
white jelly Into them. When these ure
set, pour in the saffron mixture, in
such a manner as to resemble poached
egen. The jelly that has been put on
the ice will now be ready; ent it isto
thin slices, arrange it on a dish as you
would bacon, Remove the eo from
the moulds, place them in uniform ore
der ayer the bacon and garnish
parsley,
June is from J
of | _—
favorite month for
i)
ai
the pat-on staing
therefore, the
8