OUR PARIS LETTER. J In spite of the continuous disagree- able weather that we keve had, we still cling to our faith in the belief that the sunny days will soon be here, and #0 we resolutely lay aside our winter costumes and array ourselves in the jsuntiest and most delicate of spring coslumes, In the show windows of the most prominent houses, and the parlors of the modistes, everything shows the greatest novelty and most exquisite freshness. All fabrics are delicate in color aud of light weight; the hats are marvelous wreaths of most natural flowers; parasolsare fascinatin beyond description, and a thousand I eg inventions are displayed ready to lend their aid as a finishing touch to mag- n flcent costumes. This Spring every- thing, ribbons, fabrics, even the sik muslins, so soft and supple, show vari. able colors; their tints reflect the ever chauging colors of the opal, and the chameleon like hues of the wings of the lophophore mingled with shot color. ‘or street costumes gr: y and beige colors predominate. A cusrming cos- tame, which has just bee. finished by a leading modiste, is of gr.y cloth called ‘“‘pantalon de cheval,” of which we have spoken before, ornamented with narrow bands of velvet embroid- ered with steel points. The round corsage i# confined by a pale blue satin ribbon and opens on a plastron of gray satin pre BY with steel points. Large pufls of cloth form the sleeves abovethe elbow and are joined to deep wrist bands of gray satin, also studded like the plastron with steel points. The «kirt is quite plain with only a narrow baud of gray velvet studded with steel points placed ust above the hem. Another robe is beige colored India cashmere | with sheath-shaped skirt, very close | above and spreadingits fulness in wi el shape at the bottom. With this is a very long jacket, the fronts widely | open on a chemisette of straw-colored | silk muslin arranged in coquilles; a smail A visiting robe of manve bengaline Las two flounces of black Chantilly lace, each about ten inches deep across the | front and sides of the skirt; the sage has a double quill lace bretelles an! a drapery of lace on the | hips forming paniers. ‘Uhe back of the robe 1s cut princesse shape, the bretel- | les extend over the shoulders and ter- | minate in a fall of lace at the waistline The sleeves are plan, clos wrists and dotted with pearls of jet If the hats are marvelous wreaths of | flowers what shall we say of the nets, toques, capotes, ete. The Greek | style of dressing the hair has given a! new i ners, and the sult is to say the least a novel coiffure In frontisa clust r of roses from whic spring two swallows’ wings: two wings placed at the sides, wire frame which has been draped with lace aud connect the front { the coiffure with a sma'l wreath roses which surrounds the hair back of the head. These wre made of forget-me-no's, and and sometimes orchids are stead roses, on the front capotes are simple cor- | As | ng ol bon- fen to tl cover OL | Ol tie 8 are | 01 1 forced of a twis ! of large jet pearls like a Moorish eap, and a little cluster of ostrich tips are’ pisced upright on the centre of the crown. Large hats are not worn unless they are the beantiful italian straw, twisted into the most arti-tie shapes | and covered with flowers. Small hats, in the shape of a plate, without crowns and with narrow brims are preferred. Bronze and vellow are the favorite colors and combine well Acacias primroses, vellow edelweis, narei and jonquilles are the fashionable vel low flowers, A very pretty novelty 1a a large poppy of black velvet with the uaderside of yellow satin; the p stils and stamens, mixed, vellow and vlack. A cluster of these flowers makes an extremely effi ctive garniture tor a Llack hat. Parasol handles are in natural we od, often of the same color as the cover: for instance, wood of allspice,of a ty old rose color with silk to mat of green citron or orange wood striped silk of the same handles represent hazel nut branches i on which are seen nuts in their green ooverings; sometimes branches of rose | wood decorated with clusters of little roses, On handles of natural wood sre paced all sorts of ornaments; flowers, truits, birds and even vegetables snem- ones, white and red gooseberrios, little peas in half open pods, cloves parrots, swallows, ete., all perfectly imitated as to form and color. As a ccmpliment to these pretty handles are seen beautiful covers. Changeable silk, old gold and biue, with an em- broidery of black lace placed on the edge and falling over it is the newest s:yle. There is also black guimpure and Irish gnimpure over translucent color; these have cases of fancy silk which are quickly withdrawn at the first appearance of the sun's rays, oO “H11R pret- h, or with | & } 3 yen | shade, CIne | No. 1018, which are so neces*ary to the full dis- play of such dainty articles, Ferice Lesure, No. 1020, NO, Darss is of fine wool goods straight pleats in the | skirt mounted Sxiur. —This ROCK AD No. 1019, No. 1020, Bowmen model shows a wool goods trimmed with white moire | ribbons. It has a tailor back and fronts adjusted by darts, closed in the Jacket, — Our on a false waist-coat closed also in the centre, Straight ribbon. Half large sleeves trimmed { with onffs, ornamented with two rows {of ribbon; the same ribbon trims the | edge of the jacket and the revers. No. 1021, Parry Dzrss rom a Gren { Twerve Yeams Op. —Cream-eolored bengaline trimmed with ecru guipure is used for this dress. ‘The straight skirt is finished with a flounce of gui- pure. The corsage has the fronts ar- ranged in form of a fichn opened over & plasiron of guipare; the fronts are pleated on the shoulders and erossed at the waist, the right front forming a ! beading from the plastron to the waist, High collar of bengaline. Full sleeves of bengaline terminating in very deep | wristhan guipure, lointed belt of beugaline. 5s O The front of the skirt is orname with embroidery put om in circular shape to simulate a round apron front. Embroidered dress patterns can be m ade up in this way {fo great advantage ! lered breadth, for the length of the front of the skirt. Visirixa Costumes. —No. 1018. The first costume consists of a gown for heliotrope faille very plainly made; the with two flounces of black lace, each from ten to twelve inches deep. The bodice 18 pointed in front, perfectly plain, and closed in the centre with small buttons, The shoul- der cape, or pelerine, is made of bro- caded silk with flaring collar of black velvet and lining of fancy striped satin. jet galloon and ornamented with black cock’s feathers. No. 1019, The second eostume is of tan colored goods, the skirt pleated in the back and on the sides. he centre of the front is ornamented with a de- sign, embroidered in silk of a deeper thade, which decreases in width towards the waist line. The pointed bodice has fronts gathered at the shibuldors and laid in pleats which meet in a point at the contre of tho waist line, cen. tre of the fronts, which is flat, is orna- mented with a design of embroidery to matoh that on the skirt, but reversed; the wider portion being Jlaced close to the collar, Straight, high collar, sleeves close fiom tho wrist to above the elbow from which t two full pulls reach ay ich, poly ¥ No. 1022 No. 1022, Tea. ~Gown in ple blue peau de avie, trimmed with black lace with gold, The back of the skirt is of ed with bows of pale blue satin ribbon. Ihe round bodice is of peau de soie with plastron of fawn-colored surah draped on each side with plestings of lace. High collar edged with lace: half-long sleeves ornamented on the shoulders by epaulettes of lace and bows of ribbon, and flnished with deep frills of lace looped on the inner arm with knots of ribbon, Belt of biue ribbon fastened with a rosette on the right hip. If thon art not born again, all thy ont. ward reformation 1s naught; thou hast shut the door, but the thiet is still in the house, We never do evil so thoroughly and heartily as when led to it by an honest, but pervected because mistaken, con sCiBuCce, In proportion as one's mature and emotions develop In complexity does thelr expression gain in directuess and simpliciiy. Tell your friend that he thin; intellectual people He may think you are plimeni.ng him, Toough a man may not esonpe his fate, he shall bind her hands in the meshes of her own web and triumph in fultilling her degrees, We are apt to forget that theonly at- tribute of a crown is not its lustre; that In proportion as it is precious will it press upon the brows with the weight of respou sibility. A free rein may be gi amition If one Is strong and sure aa But otherwise there comes Jdisaster more melancholy than that whieh befell an anayh va delve umbition Watadioms with is looking are often Lh n, indirectly com- FANCY WORK. Knowing that our readers are inter- ested in all that pertains to fancy work of every description, we are pleased to give them this week a very interesti article on Hungarian Peasant Embroi- dery for which we are indebted to the columns of The Season. “Like many other home industries, oarried on by the peasants of different countries, high thanks to the efforts of benevolent ladies of rank, have been turned into a source of regular profit for the poor workers—we especi- ally refer to the Irish schools for lace, crochet, the Mountmellick embroidery, and the Bosnian and Turkish embroi- dery—the Hungarian peasant work ha: now become quite an artic'e of trade, As far back as 1885the lovely specimens of embroidery displayed in the peasant rooms ‘‘szoba” in the ‘“‘Hazi-Ipar” pa- vilion of the Exhibition in Budapest attracted general attention, The empress Elizabeth of Austria was much interested in the work and she and the ladies of her court bought large quantiti s of it. There example was followed by a great number of the aristocracy, but the limited uses to which it conid be put—ornamenting sheets, table cloth and fowels—did not offer a wide choiee, and rather hindered & more extensive sale of these beautiful and rich embroideries, Madame de Gyarmathy, wife of the Vice President in Transylvania, has now, out of pare love for her country, undertaken the trouble to enlarge the hitherto narrow restrictions sttached to home industry, and so to organize its production and sale as to render it a remunerative undertaking, The wo- men and giris of Tra: eylvania dressed in their becoming national costumes, on which embroidery is never wanting, doors, or in the field, cheerfully sing- ing whilst plying their busy needles, and producing such work as shown in our illnstrations, The grand Dnchess Marie Valerie ordered three rooms in the castle of Lichtenegg, her new home, to be fitted up with this work, One saloon is in white and light blue, a Turk- ish red, and a dressing room ‘ecru and hte, This outfit includes only the cloths ete., but all the upholstery, cur- not sins and drapery. Every thing is embroidered on strong Fodor] linen with good, thick thread, so that dura. bility is another advantage of which this work can boast. The “Varrotias” are so well done that despite their be- ing in constant use, they may descend for centuries from generation. The “Kortves,” or p-ar pattern, is an es pecial favorite with the Trannsylvanian women, who cherish the belief that a if this pattern is largely used in ber outfit. Tbe work is donein plait, cross and flat stitches, in so ealled, Holbein stitch and open-work. In addition to this embroilery done on strong linen, they execute silk em- broidery on white homespun linen. Tt is also very lovely in its way, and worthy of a place in the Industrial Museum, The eye rests fully satisfied on an artistic production of the most simple materinis,. We can indeed say, that like the old German and Italian em- broideries on linen, the Hungarian embroideries deserve eqnal popularity. Whilst other works lose all their beanty in the washing, these linen articles ap- pear every time as good as new, It requires patient industry in the execution, but neither the one nor the other is in vain. One great charm of these articles 1s a certain irregularity of design. The peasant works inde- pendently, forms Ber own patterns ws she goes on, altering old ones to suit her taste, so we seldom find two pieces exactly alike. Imitators will be at = loss for one charm of the work, for the | strong Fodor linen, a sort of crepe like texture, is a specialty of Trannsylvania and not for general sale. The best substitute is thick home spun linen, but never finished ine n for the glossy regular surface spoils the effe t of the work. Among the patierns we have selected two spreads embroidered with linen thresd, and a sofa cover with silk. Both of the former display similar ferent size: the one with an cenire measures a yard 121 by two 3 is broad, whilst the other one yard 24 inches long by one yard broad. The joinings on the first are | done with pillow-made red and Nac of « nnis int uches lon GIVIRIOns is i the edge is to match. The principal corner squares are worked in white and other fancy stitches. The long cover shows a continuous pattern, a curious ornament 8 noticeal le at the corners, or where the material is joined by = sort of donble button-hole stitch, see detail of work) these button-hole | stiches being done with alternate red {cotton and white thread. The tree shows the effect of the twisted stitch. The richly decorated sofa cover is worked on white homespun linen, the original pattern being done in flat stitches and the fillings with open work, those marked in squares have point d’esprit fillings, The ground is done with yellowish cordonnet silk, the birds and flowers with white and light blug filoselle, and the outiives and di- visions of the birds’ wings are 1rown. The accompanying small patterns will suffice to explain the different stitches which may be arranged in groups.” | i 5 ny” r A 8 TORN 5 A 5 PN FOOD FOR THOUGHT. Joy is a subtls elf, Be always frank and true, Pride frustrates its own design, Hope, without an object, cannot live, Man is happiest when he forgets him- self, Confide your faults and follies to but few. Work, witho1t hope, draws nectar in a sieve, Fociely is the master and the servant, He who does nothing is very near do. ing 1lL A forward child shows a parent, The everlasting gloomy man can be ignored, The everlasting funny man is to dreaded, Ioan backward be Nothing is more refreshing than true I politeness, { There is too much law and { justice extant. i too Ilitle The thrifty housewife should take pride in her occupation, p88 consists in the very. i I'he finest mas | power of self-ree Intemperancs is a tyrant that a creales Lo reign over him, nan We must take the current FEIVes, or 108 our ventures, when it in, mo- No entertainment 18 so cheap as read. ing, wor any pleasure so lasting, Shallow men believe in 1 believe in cause ande tL is something to feel owa houre you can do as you please 3¥ being ¢ ntemptible we sst men’s . , misds to the tune of contempt. Virtue is like precious odors, more | fragrant when they are crushed, { Next to the virtue, the fun in this | world is what we can least spare, by. | "Tis right to be contented with what | we have, but not with what we are, | A little word is not a little thing. for | it may make, and it may mar a king. | If you would have a faithful servant and one that you like, serve yourself, * Fix upon that course of life which is bes! custom will render it delightful, As tears soften the heart, so does rain sofien the earth that good may come, If cleanliness Is next to godliness, the Baptists begin their religious life well, The glider and the refiner of gold see no beauty in a cowslip. All that remains of life is death: all that remains of death isa handful of ashes, It is the greatest poss ble praise to be praised by a man who is himself desery- ing of praise, Some people see everything connected with themselves and their friends as through & wagnifymg glass, Doing nothing for others is the undo ing of one’s sell, We do most good to ourselves when doing for others, When thought is too weak to be sim. ply expressed, it is a proof that it should be rejected, Justice is never so blind but she can tell the difference between a rich and poor man. Hope may be the anchor of the soul, but Faith is the wharf at which the sou! lies moored, Above all things always speak the truth; your word must be your bond through life, The man who is perpetually hesitating as to which of two things he wil do, seldom does either, It takes a wise man to suffer pros. perity, but most any fool can suffer ad- versity. Mo al supremac Js the only one which leaves monuments, pot ruins be- hind it. Goeodnest is not left to stand alone, He that exempiifies it will have neigh- LOrs, Truth is established by investigation and delay; falsehood prospers by precipi Lancy. Most people would succesd in small things, if they were not troubled with great ambitions, An industrious and virtuous edocs tion of children is a better inheritance or them than & great estate, “purn every kind of affectation and disguise, Have the courageto confess your lgrorance and awk waraness, The phrase, *‘ Heaven is for the good, rather loses its force when we consider that everybody expects to go there, Pride, after all, is one of our best friends—It makes us believe we are bet tor and happier than our neighbors. The person who argoes with a linr has abont us much sense as the man whe drives in the mod to paiot his wagon, ! ife is very short, but It doesn’t seem #0 when a fellow is for an ever- “%e train al & country fing Io station,
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