OUR PARIS LETTER. J
In spite of the continuous disagree-
able weather that we keve had, we
still cling to our faith in the belief that
the sunny days will soon be here, and
#0 we resolutely lay aside our winter
costumes and array ourselves in the
jsuntiest and most delicate of spring
coslumes,
In the show windows of the most
prominent houses, and the parlors of
the modistes, everything shows the
greatest novelty and most exquisite
freshness. All fabrics are delicate in
color aud of light weight; the hats are
marvelous wreaths of most natural
flowers; parasolsare fascinatin beyond
description, and a thousand I eg
inventions are displayed ready to lend
their aid as a finishing touch to mag-
n flcent costumes. This Spring every-
thing, ribbons, fabrics, even the sik
muslins, so soft and supple, show vari.
able colors; their tints reflect the ever
chauging colors of the opal, and the
chameleon like hues of the wings of the
lophophore mingled with shot color.
‘or street costumes gr: y and beige
colors predominate. A cusrming cos-
tame, which has just bee. finished by
a leading modiste, is of gr.y cloth
called ‘“‘pantalon de cheval,” of which
we have spoken before, ornamented
with narrow bands of velvet embroid-
ered with steel points. The round
corsage i# confined by a pale blue satin
ribbon and opens on a plastron of gray
satin pre BY with steel points. Large
pufls of cloth form the sleeves abovethe
elbow and are joined to deep wrist bands
of gray satin, also studded like the
plastron with steel points. The «kirt is
quite plain with only a narrow baud of
gray velvet studded with steel points
placed ust above the hem. Another
robe is beige colored India cashmere |
with sheath-shaped skirt, very close |
above and spreadingits fulness in wi el
shape at the bottom. With this is a
very long jacket, the fronts widely |
open on a chemisette of straw-colored |
silk muslin arranged in coquilles; a
smail
A visiting robe of manve bengaline Las
two flounces of black Chantilly lace,
each about ten inches deep across the |
front and sides of the skirt; the
sage has a double quill lace
bretelles an! a drapery of lace on the |
hips forming paniers. ‘Uhe back of the
robe 1s cut princesse shape, the bretel- |
les extend over the shoulders and ter- |
minate in a fall of lace at the waistline
The sleeves are plan, clos
wrists and dotted with pearls of jet
If the hats are marvelous wreaths of |
flowers what shall we say of the
nets, toques, capotes, ete. The Greek |
style of dressing the hair has given a!
new i ners, and the
sult is to say the least a novel coiffure
In frontisa clust r of roses from whic
spring two swallows’ wings: two
wings placed at the sides,
wire frame which has been draped
with lace aud connect the front {
the coiffure with a sma'l wreath
roses which surrounds the hair
back of the head. These wre
made of forget-me-no's, and
and sometimes orchids are
stead roses, on the front
capotes are simple
cor- |
As |
ng ol
bon-
fen to tl
cover
OL |
Ol
tie
8 are |
01 1
forced of a twis !
of large jet pearls like a Moorish eap,
and a little cluster of ostrich tips are’
pisced upright on the centre of the
crown.
Large hats are not worn unless they
are the beantiful italian straw,
twisted into the most arti-tie shapes |
and covered with flowers. Small hats,
in the shape of a plate, without crowns
and with narrow brims are preferred.
Bronze and vellow are the favorite
colors and combine well Acacias
primroses, vellow edelweis, narei
and jonquilles are the fashionable vel
low flowers, A very pretty novelty 1a
a large poppy of black velvet with the
uaderside of yellow satin; the p stils
and stamens, mixed, vellow and vlack.
A cluster of these flowers makes an
extremely effi ctive garniture tor a Llack
hat.
Parasol handles are in natural we od,
often of the same color as the cover:
for instance, wood of allspice,of a
ty old rose color with silk to mat
of green citron or orange wood
striped silk of the same
handles represent hazel nut branches i
on which are seen nuts in their green
ooverings; sometimes branches of rose |
wood decorated with clusters of little
roses, On handles of natural wood sre
paced all sorts of ornaments; flowers,
truits, birds and even vegetables snem-
ones, white and red gooseberrios,
little peas in half open pods, cloves
parrots, swallows, ete., all perfectly
imitated as to form and color. As a
ccmpliment to these pretty handles are
seen beautiful covers. Changeable
silk, old gold and biue, with an em-
broidery of black lace placed on the
edge and falling over it is the newest
s:yle. There is also black guimpure
and Irish gnimpure over translucent
color; these have cases of fancy silk
which are quickly withdrawn at the
first appearance of the sun's rays,
oO
“H11R
pret-
h, or
with |
&
} 3 yen |
shade, CIne |
No. 1018,
which are so neces*ary to the full dis-
play of such dainty articles,
Ferice Lesure,
No. 1020,
NO, Darss
is of fine wool goods
straight pleats in the |
skirt
mounted
Sxiur. —This
ROCK AD
No. 1019,
No. 1020, Bowmen
model shows a
wool goods trimmed with white moire
| ribbons. It has a tailor back and
fronts adjusted by darts, closed in the
Jacket, — Our
on a false waist-coat closed also in the
centre, Straight
ribbon. Half large sleeves trimmed
{ with onffs, ornamented with two rows
{of ribbon; the same ribbon trims the
| edge of the jacket and the revers.
No. 1021, Parry Dzrss rom a Gren
{ Twerve Yeams Op. —Cream-eolored
bengaline trimmed with ecru guipure
is used for this dress. ‘The straight
skirt is finished with a flounce of gui-
pure. The corsage has the fronts ar-
ranged in form of a fichn opened over
& plasiron of guipare; the fronts are
pleated on the shoulders and erossed at
the waist, the right front forming a
! beading from the plastron to the waist,
High collar of bengaline. Full sleeves
of bengaline terminating in very deep
| wristhan guipure, lointed belt
of beugaline.
5s O
The front of the skirt is orname
with embroidery put om in circular
shape to simulate a round apron front.
Embroidered dress patterns can be
m ade up in this way {fo great advantage
! lered
breadth, for the length of the front of
the skirt.
Visirixa Costumes. —No. 1018. The
first costume consists of a gown for
heliotrope faille very plainly made; the
with two flounces of
black lace, each from ten to twelve
inches deep. The bodice 18 pointed in
front, perfectly plain, and closed in the
centre with small buttons, The shoul-
der cape, or pelerine, is made of bro-
caded silk with flaring collar of black
velvet and lining of fancy striped satin.
jet galloon and ornamented with black
cock’s feathers.
No. 1019, The second eostume is of
tan colored goods, the skirt pleated in
the back and on the sides. he centre
of the front is ornamented with a de-
sign, embroidered in silk of a deeper
thade, which decreases in width towards
the waist line. The pointed bodice has
fronts gathered at the shibuldors and
laid in pleats which meet in a point at
the contre of tho waist line, cen.
tre of the fronts, which is flat, is orna-
mented with a design of embroidery to
matoh that on the skirt, but reversed;
the wider portion being Jlaced close to
the collar, Straight, high collar, sleeves
close fiom tho wrist to above the elbow
from which t two full pulls reach
ay ich, poly
¥
No. 1022
No. 1022,
Tea. ~Gown in ple blue peau de avie,
trimmed with black lace
with gold, The back of the skirt is of
ed with bows of pale blue satin ribbon.
Ihe round bodice is of peau de soie
with plastron of fawn-colored surah
draped on each side with plestings of
lace. High collar edged with lace:
half-long sleeves ornamented on the
shoulders by epaulettes of lace and
bows of ribbon, and flnished with deep
frills of lace looped on the inner arm
with knots of ribbon, Belt of biue
ribbon fastened with a rosette on the
right hip.
If thon art not born again, all thy ont.
ward reformation 1s naught; thou hast
shut the door, but the thiet is still in
the house,
We never do evil so thoroughly and
heartily as when led to it by an honest,
but pervected because mistaken, con
sCiBuCce,
In proportion as one's mature and
emotions develop In complexity does
thelr expression gain in directuess and
simpliciiy.
Tell your friend that he
thin; intellectual people
He may think you are
plimeni.ng him,
Toough a man may not esonpe his
fate, he shall bind her hands in the
meshes of her own web and triumph in
fultilling her degrees,
We are apt to forget that theonly at-
tribute of a crown is not its lustre; that
In proportion as it is precious will it
press upon the brows with the weight
of respou sibility.
A free rein may be gi amition If
one Is strong and sure aa But
otherwise there comes Jdisaster more
melancholy than that whieh befell an
anayh va delve umbition Watadioms with
is looking
are often Lh n,
indirectly com-
FANCY WORK.
Knowing that our readers are inter-
ested in all that pertains to fancy work
of every description, we are pleased to
give them this week a very interesti
article on Hungarian Peasant Embroi-
dery for which we are indebted to the
columns of The Season.
“Like many other home industries,
oarried on by the peasants of different
countries, high thanks to the efforts
of benevolent ladies of rank, have
been turned into a source of regular
profit for the poor workers—we especi-
ally refer to the Irish schools for lace,
crochet, the Mountmellick embroidery,
and the Bosnian and Turkish embroi-
dery—the Hungarian peasant work ha:
now become quite an artic'e of trade,
As far back as 1885the lovely specimens
of embroidery displayed in the peasant
rooms ‘‘szoba” in the ‘“‘Hazi-Ipar” pa-
vilion of the Exhibition in Budapest
attracted general attention,
The empress Elizabeth of Austria
was much interested in the work and
she and the ladies of her court bought
large quantiti s of it. There example
was followed by a great number of the
aristocracy, but the limited uses to
which it conid be put—ornamenting
sheets, table cloth and fowels—did not
offer a wide choiee, and rather hindered
& more extensive sale of these beautiful
and rich embroideries,
Madame de Gyarmathy, wife of the
Vice President in Transylvania, has
now, out of pare love for her country,
undertaken the trouble to enlarge the
hitherto narrow restrictions sttached
to home industry, and so to organize
its production and sale as to render it a
remunerative undertaking, The wo-
men and giris of Tra: eylvania dressed
in their becoming national costumes,
on which embroidery is never wanting,
doors, or in the field, cheerfully sing-
ing whilst plying their busy needles,
and producing such work as shown in
our illnstrations, The grand Dnchess
Marie Valerie ordered three rooms in
the castle of Lichtenegg, her new home,
to be fitted up with this work, One
saloon is in white and light blue, a
Turk-
ish red, and a dressing room ‘ecru and
hte,
This outfit includes only the
cloths ete., but all the upholstery, cur-
not
sins and drapery. Every thing is
embroidered on strong Fodor] linen
with good, thick thread, so that dura.
bility is another advantage of which
this work can boast. The “Varrotias”
are so well done that despite their be-
ing in constant use, they may descend
for centuries from generation. The
“Kortves,” or p-ar pattern, is an es
pecial favorite with the Trannsylvanian
women, who cherish the belief that a
if this pattern is largely used in ber
outfit. Tbe work is donein plait, cross
and flat stitches, in so ealled, Holbein
stitch and open-work.
In addition to this embroilery done
on strong linen, they execute silk em-
broidery on white homespun linen. Tt
is also very lovely in its way, and
worthy of a place in the Industrial
Museum,
The eye rests fully satisfied on an
artistic production of the most simple
materinis,. We can indeed say, that
like the old German and Italian em-
broideries on linen, the Hungarian
embroideries deserve eqnal popularity.
Whilst other works lose all their beanty
in the washing, these linen articles ap-
pear every time as good as new,
It requires patient industry in the
execution, but neither the one nor the
other is in vain. One great charm of
these articles 1s a certain irregularity
of design. The peasant works inde-
pendently, forms Ber own patterns ws
she goes on, altering old ones to suit
her taste, so we seldom find two pieces
exactly alike. Imitators will be at =
loss for one charm of the work, for the
| strong Fodor linen, a sort of crepe like
texture, is a specialty of Trannsylvania
and not for general sale. The best
substitute is thick home spun linen,
but never finished ine n
for the glossy regular surface spoils the
effe t of the work. Among the
patierns we have selected two
spreads embroidered with linen thresd,
and a sofa cover with silk. Both of the
former display similar
ferent size: the one with an
cenire measures a yard 121
by two 3 is broad, whilst the other
one yard 24 inches long by one yard
broad. The joinings on the first are
| done with pillow-made red and
Nac
of «
nnis int
uches lon
GIVIRIOns
is
i
the edge is to match. The principal
corner squares are worked in white and
other fancy stitches. The long cover
shows a continuous pattern, a curious
ornament 8 noticeal le at the corners,
or where the material is joined by =
sort of donble button-hole stitch, see
detail of work) these button-hole
| stiches being done with alternate red
{cotton and white thread. The tree
shows the effect of the twisted stitch.
The richly decorated sofa cover is
worked on white homespun linen, the
original pattern being done in flat
stitches and the fillings with open work,
those marked in squares have point
d’esprit fillings, The ground is done
with yellowish cordonnet silk, the
birds and flowers with white and light
blug filoselle, and the outiives and di-
visions of the birds’ wings are 1rown.
The accompanying small patterns will
suffice to explain the different stitches
which may be arranged in groups.”
|
i
5 ny”
r A
8 TORN
5 A
5 PN
FOOD FOR THOUGHT.
Joy is a subtls elf,
Be always frank and true,
Pride frustrates its own design,
Hope, without an object, cannot live,
Man is happiest when he forgets him-
self,
Confide your faults and follies to but
few.
Work, witho1t hope, draws nectar in
a sieve,
Fociely is the master and the
servant,
He who does nothing is very near do.
ing 1lL
A forward child shows a
parent,
The everlasting gloomy man can be
ignored,
The everlasting funny man is to
dreaded,
Ioan
backward
be
Nothing is more refreshing than true
I politeness,
{ There is too much law and
{ justice extant.
i
too Ilitle
The thrifty housewife should take
pride in her occupation,
p88 consists in the
very.
i I'he finest mas
| power of self-ree
Intemperancs is a tyrant that a
creales Lo reign over him,
nan
We must take the current
FEIVes, or 108 our ventures,
when it
in, mo-
No entertainment 18 so cheap as read.
ing, wor any pleasure so lasting,
Shallow men believe in
1 believe in cause ande
tL is something to feel
owa houre you can do as you please
3¥ being ¢ ntemptible we sst men’s
. ,
misds to the tune of contempt.
Virtue is like precious odors, more
| fragrant when they are crushed,
{ Next to the virtue, the fun in this
| world is what we can least spare,
by.
| "Tis right to be contented with what
| we have, but not with what we are,
| A little word is not a little thing. for
| it may make, and it may mar a king.
| If you would have a faithful servant
and one that you like, serve yourself,
*
Fix upon that course of life which is
bes! custom will render it delightful,
As tears soften the heart, so does rain
sofien the earth that good may come,
If cleanliness Is next to godliness, the
Baptists begin their religious life well,
The glider and the refiner of gold see
no beauty in a cowslip.
All that remains of life is death: all
that remains of death isa handful of
ashes,
It is the greatest poss ble praise to be
praised by a man who is himself desery-
ing of praise,
Some people see everything connected
with themselves and their friends as
through & wagnifymg glass,
Doing nothing for others is the undo
ing of one’s sell, We do most good to
ourselves when doing for others,
When thought is too weak to be sim.
ply expressed, it is a proof that it should
be rejected,
Justice is never so blind but she
can tell the difference between a rich
and poor man.
Hope may be the anchor of the soul,
but Faith is the wharf at which the
sou! lies moored,
Above all things always speak the
truth; your word must be your bond
through life,
The man who is perpetually hesitating
as to which of two things he wil do,
seldom does either,
It takes a wise man to suffer pros.
perity, but most any fool can suffer ad-
versity.
Mo al supremac Js the only one
which leaves monuments, pot ruins be-
hind it.
Goeodnest is not left to stand alone,
He that exempiifies it will have neigh-
LOrs,
Truth is established by investigation
and delay; falsehood prospers by precipi
Lancy.
Most people would succesd in small
things, if they were not troubled with
great ambitions,
An industrious and virtuous edocs
tion of children is a better inheritance
or them than & great estate,
“purn every kind of affectation and
disguise, Have the courageto confess
your lgrorance and awk waraness,
The phrase, *‘ Heaven is for the good,
rather loses its force when we consider
that everybody expects to go there,
Pride, after all, is one of our best
friends—It makes us believe we are bet
tor and happier than our neighbors.
The person who argoes with a linr has
abont us much sense as the man whe
drives in the mod to paiot his wagon,
! ife is very short, but It doesn’t seem
#0 when a fellow is for an ever-
“%e train al & country fing Io station,