16 TWO HOME DRESSES Home-dress. —Here Is a very pretty home-dress in Saxe-blue fine sergfe. The skirt has a narrow front breadth and circular sides. A strap of galloon in darker shades of the same color trims each side front. The over-bodice is cut with kimono sleeves, and has a deep fold over the shoulders to waist each side. It is trimmed with galloon like the skirt; the rucked undersleeves and tucked front are attached to lining. The fastening is down the center back. Materials required: 6 yards 46 inches wide, 6Va yards galloon, 6V& yard* sateen for lining, 2 yards silk 22 inches wide. Blouse Costume. —For morning wear a skirt of some plain material, such as fine serge, cashmere, or wincey, with blouse to match, always looks trim und smart. The skirt we show here is in navy blue cashmere lined with sateen. It is a nine-gore pattern, just off the ground all round. The blouse is quite simply made with two tucks over the shoulder to the waist, back and front, then one over the shoulder nearer the front, and one up to the collar. The front is fastened by bone buttons. Linen collars and cuff# a. re worn. Material required: 6 yards 46 inches wide. LACE COATS FOR SPRING. 'Beautiful and Desirable Ornament Is to Be Fashionable. Cluny lace shows signs of being the <most popular of the laces for summer suits and voile dresses, although dur ing the season just passed it has di vided honors with the ever fashionable -Irish. Even the lace coats for sum mer use are made of this pillow lace, and during the last three years It lias relegated renaissance lace to its proper use for curtains and table cov ers. Cluny is a very beautiful and desir able ornament for any costume and because it la made of a linen thread !t is especially appropriate as a dec oration for linen dresses. At the same time it is not as expensive nor as heavy as the Irish crochet. Some of the lace coats are tinted to a deep shade of tan, while others of ■white are lined with silk in some light Bhade. The popularity of cluny will also prevent coats of embroidered filet net from coming strougly into vogue, for the darned net, no matter how beautiful it may be, always has a , darned look, while lace should really j V 'k like lace. It is yet too early to tell definitely how smart the lace coats will be made for ordinary wear, but certain it is that, if they are worn on the street, they will not be strictly good form. DAINTY NIGHT DRESS. The neck of this dainty night dress is square in the front and round in the back. The sleeves are shaped circular pieces, full at the top and trimmed in lace. The New Shield Clamp. A handy little device that will prove a biessing to the busy woman who loves neatness has appeared in the shops. It is a very small metal clamp for attaching the shield to the waist, or underwaist without sewing or pinning. It grips the edge of the shield and waist, holding them firmly, and is so 11 a■. as to be entirely unno tieeable. The clamps are made of j?o!d plate and nickel, and range from 15 cents to 25 cents per set, one set bi'ing four clamps, enough for one waist. Enter Pinafore Style. The woman with a passion for ren ovation will find much comfort in the fact (hat. some of the newest Paris models show the pinafore outline rround the shoulders. For, by remov ing the sleeves of last year's gown, • cutting away the bodice both back and ifront, and edging with silk passemen terie, presto, there is conjured forth a little garment ready to be drawn over the dainty underbodice demanded by the pinafore style. HOME-MADE AROMATIC VINEGAR. Toilet Necessity That Is Comparative ly Easy to Prepare. While that familiar old saying, "A peck of dust is worth a king's ran som." may have truth for its founda tion, it brings in its wake bad colds, inflamed eyes, headaches and a host of minor discomforts, writes Emma Paddock Telford. Our grandmothers used to make great use of aromatic vinegar at such times, claiming that It afforded relief to headaches, relieved dizziness and faintness and even pos sessed great anti-epidemic qualities. At all events its pungent scent and fragrant odor rendered it grate fully refreshing. And what more can we ask? Most of the aromatic vinegar pur chased in shops is nothing but sul phate of potash put up in small vials Impregnated with acetic acid made aromatic with oil of rosemary or lav ender. A far better article can be made at home after this old recipe: Take four ounces each dried rosemary tips and sage leaves, two ounces dried lavender flowers, two drams bruised cloves and four quarts distilled vine gar. Macerate these Ingredients in a wooden or earthen vessel for a week, then filter the liquor and bottle. Some add camphor. Garnishing for Lingerie Gowns. Embroidered linen and lace medal lions and galloons make wonderfully effective garnishing for lingerie gow«ns, whether placed at intervals upon the skirt or arranged entre deux with tucks, smaller sizes of similar pattern being employed for the blouse. The lingerie costume, of course, is worn over a silk slip, preferably of chiffon taffeta, which, having no dress ing, does not crack nor make tho rustling sound that is now considered as an indication of vulgarity, for the refined young woman, however ath letic, is expected to be a soundless, velvet-footed, soft-voiced person of re tiring manner, although entirely self possessed. Therefore, lingerie gowns which look simple whatever their ".ost, perfectly suit her pose. The Corsage. It is only natural that with the prin cess and empire gown should come the silk corsage, that bodice that fits like a co-set and can be made into one of the most elaborate bits of dress imaginable. Just now the new corsage is quite short and it is rather plain across the front to give a princess ef fect, but the sides and under-arra pieces will be furnished with finest metallic laces and glistening trim mings of every description. The cor sage is pointed at the front and back of the yoke outline, straight across the lower edge of the back and slightly rounded at the waist line. It Is sleeve less, though the guimpe sleeves are bits of beauty as well as the pretty lace yoke. Lace Luncheon Set. To make an attractive and inexpen sive luncheon set procure at the cur tain goods department filet curtain lace for about 05 cents a yard. Four of the squares make a plate doily, one square a bread and butter plate doily, and one square a tumbler dolly. Six teen squares make the centerpiece. To make a set of 12 each only takes about a yard and a quarter of materi al. Then get Inexpensive torchon or some other heavy laco and sew around 1 tho edges of the doilies, making the seams in the corner, where they wii/ not show. CAMERON COUNTY PRESS, THURSDAY, APRIL 16, 1908. (CX©D TO \N<M VJ FOR THE-: n t /OLEASTER. =f= X# tOTABLE-* : I *1 I SUITABLE DECORATIONS AND REASONABLE DISH'ES » CRISP freshness, daintiness and brightness should be the dom inating features of lflaster din ners, luncheons or whatever special feast marks the pausing from the meager regime of Lent to the gladsome time of rich Special flowers, fruits and vegetables at this season make it feasible to mark the change in a pecuniary at tractive manner. Pussy willows will give the right touch if one lives where they can be got so late In the season. The blos soms of fruit trees —apples, peaches, pears and plums—make extremely beautiful Easter decorations, and the florists anticipate nature sufficiently to provide them at this time. Equally, beautiful are flowering shrubs, such as lilac, syringa, japonica and the like, which the accommodating florist also has in stock now. The most season able of flowers for decoration, and, therefore, the most desirable, are the bulbous plants like the narcissus, the daffodil, the jonquil, the fresia, the hyacinth, the iris, and, above all, the lily. Beautiful as are pure white lilies, many persons prefer not to use them because they have become so hack neyed. There is a turning to colored lilies of various sizes this season; flaming red ones, yellow ones and some that are striped or spotted. There is one thing to be remembered about the use of lilies —one must nec essarily have a somewhat formal ar rangement if they are used alone. This may be obviated to a certain extent by using them in combination with some other seasonable flower. A Daffodil Luncheon. A daffodil luncheon makes one feel as if the room were flooded with sun light, and the table can be made to look like a veritable posy garden. 1 Natural flowers are used for the cen ter and corner baskets, with a bit of green asparagus or maidenhair fern. The candle shades may be fashioned in the form of the flower from yellow crepe paper, and little boxes for bon bons may be had to match. Yellow may be the predominating color of the food, too, If desired. The following menu includes much yellow and is ap propriate for an Easter dinner: Caviare Canapes, Garnished with Lemon. Carrot Soup. Broiled Shad, with Bertiamel Yellow Sauce. Filets of Chicken. Glazed Sweet Potatoes. Boiled Asparagus. Lettuce Salad with Cheese Kggs. Orange Baskets Filled with Jelly. Pineapple. Cheese. Crackers. Coffee. Some of the prettiest of the new china is particularly nice for a yellow luncheon or dinner, having a narrow gold border as a foundation for a slight outline border of another color. Details of the Menu. To make caviare canapes take some small slices of bread that have been previously toasted and thoroughly but tered and spread them with caviare. Serve with a bit of cress and with lemon cut in fancifuUdeslgns. Filets of Chicken.—Put the breasts and first and second joints of two young chickens in a saucepan and cover with water in which is an onion. When the chicken is soft take it from the stock. Also remove the onion. Thicken the stock with three table spoonfuls of butter rubbed up with flour, and as soon as this comes to a boil add a half cup of cream and the yolks of three eggs. Season and pour over the chicken. Cheese eggs are made by mixing a cup of grated cheese with a scant tablespoonful of flour, a little salt and a dash of cayenne pepper with the beaten whites of two eggs, then shap ing them into the form of eggs, rolling in fine crumbs and frying in butter. Serve on a folded napkin. Orange Baskets Filled with Jelly.— With a sharp pointed knife cut out a piece from each side of the top half of an orange, so as to leave a strip for the handle to the lower half, thus forming a basket.. The pulp can easily be removed. Make jelly from this and All the baskets, or some other flavor ing of jelly may be used if preferred. A lily luncheon may be carried out in green apd white. It may be better to use a pot of white hyacinths or something of that sort for a center piece, as lilies are too tall to be man aged well for the purpose. The lilies may then be made to radiate from this centerpiece. This is especially pretty for a round table. There is table linen 5 SUGGESTION FOR CENTER PIECE FOR EASTER DINNER. that comes with a handsome lily de sign, and this may appropriately be used for the lily luncheon if one uses a cloth at all. Little baskets filled with painted eggs make a pleasing novelty. The menu given is suggestive and can be abridged or added to or modified according to taste and cir cumstances: Spring Soup. Shad Roe with Whit# Sauce. Cucumber Strips. Broiled Birds on Toast. Creamed Potatoes and Peas. Mint Sorbet. Mixed Salad. Pistachio Ice Cream. White Cake. Fruit. Coffee. Small Birds. —Draw and wipe the birds, taking the skin from the neck. Truss the birds carefully, and dip them first in melted butter, then in crisp, fine bread crumbs and chopped parsley. Place the birds on their backs and bake them in a hot oven for about five minutes. Serve on toast, plenti fully garnished with parsley. A Sorbet and a Salad. Mint Sorbet. —Bruise mint leaves, pour over them boiling water and let stand ten or 15 minutes. Add a cup of sugar and strain. When cool add the juice of two lemons and freeze. Serve In glasses with sprigs of fresh mint. Mixed Salad. —Use lettuce as a foundation, or romaine will do, and add to it almost any kind of green vegetables liked. French beans and peas make a good addition. French dressing is used. Pistachio Ice Cream. —Mix four cups of milk, one of cream, 1% of sugar and a pinch of salt with a junket tablet dissolved in cold water, and set away for several hours. Add a quarter of a cup of finely chopped pistachio nuts, a little green coloring and freeze. Snowdrop Oddity. Some of the early hats are very charming In their combination of cheerfulness and warmth. For in stance, there is a smart little three cornered arrangement In cream-col ored clotli, with a knot of brown vel vet at one side, holding In place a bunch of snowdrops, violets and a high osprey of shaded hyacinth and jonquil. A large picture hat in Parma violet silk is crowded all over the crown with white and colored violets tied with silver ribbon, and catching up at one side a cluster of marabout in shades of cream and mauve. Then there Is a little round toque With a crown of snowdrops put closely together, with about a quarter-inch of their stems wired erect beneath, so that they have almost the appearance of growing, and have none of the stiff ness which spoils a good many flower toques. I ~ T iNmffi J **» "*• Skirts are both longer and narrower than last year. In new silks oonventional patterns are the most prevalent. The pretty and practical jumper dress still holds its own. Charming are new linen collars with broad or narrow stripes on white or ecru. Many early hats are of net with silk bound rims. A big bow is the most usual adorn ment of the pioneer silk hat. The spring almost surely will sec the separate coat restored to its own. New pattern robes carry a great deal of colored embroidery on a whit# ground. Exit the Plaits. The plaited skirt is rapidly disap pearing. New designs are cut circular and circularly gored. As for the trim ming, the bias folds are disappearing with the plaits and circular folds are taking their place. This change is most remarked in the walking cos tume, which for so many seasons has been modeled on the plaited style with little or no variation other than in the grouping of the plaits and the width of the bias bands. Skirts are longer, too, and walking length now barely escapes the floor, while for a costume inclined at all to formality the skirt is long and trailing. CROCHET DESIGN This design may be worked out to any size; four joined as shown form a very pretty doily. Commence with 12 chain and join into a ring; 24 double crochets into the ring just made, 7 chain, a double crochet into third double crochet of previous row, 7 chain, double crochet in next third, and repeat (8 loops,) 9 double crochets under each of the chain loops. Pass over the first stitch of the first loop, *, a double crochet in each of the next three, 3 double crochets in the fourth, one in each of the three following; pass the remaining stitch and the first one in the next loop, and repeat from * all round. A double crochet in each stitch of the previous row, with three into the middle one at the top of each point. Same as last row. *, 7 chain, 1 treble in the top stitch of nearest point, 7 chain, a double crochet in middle of double crochets between the points, repeat from *. To avoid break ing off, work a single crochet into each CARE IN CHOOSING COLORS. In This Lies Half the Secret of Good Dressing. A woman may be a beauty or other wise, according to her sense of color. If she knows how to select the right shade for her special type she has dis covered half the secret of good dress ing. A colorless blond should avoid pur ple, dark green or black, but can wear safely white, navy blue, pale blue, pink, gray, amethyst and, possibly, green with a tinge of yellow in it. The sallow woman should forswear purples, browns, black or anything with a touch of tan or yellow, but will generally look well in dead white, bright, strong blues and most shades of red or pink. The black-haired, red-cheeked wom an should be judicious In her use of her favorite reds and deep yellow, as they have a tendency to give her an ordinary, even, coarse look. She will usually be at her best in white and looks well in the champagne and light tan tones. The red-haired woman should choose milk white, a dull black and light and dark greens. Browns and tans, contrary to the usual belief, im pair the purity of her complexion. Warm, light gray is usually becom ing to the red-haired woman, especial ly if she has brown eyes, while very pale lemon Is exquisite with ruddy looks. Pew of our red-haired women recog nize the possibilities of this last color, but it is well understood by the fa mous Parisian dressmakers, who use gold and yellow to enhance the beauty of many of their red-haired models. New Gloves. The dress gloves in long lengths are very near the styles of those worn dur ing the winter, but the stitching at the back shows crows' feet and tho gloves close at the wrist with two large pearl buttons. The apricot and champagne colors are very stylish Just now and may be worn with a cos tume of an entirely different color. gloves are no longer fash ionable and the yellow ones are seen only with carriage costumes. Street gloves are the shade of the street cos tume. Needing Iron. Very often that tired feeling, lost zest in life, a disinclination to move or exert oneself, waking unrefreshed, night sweats and utter weakness are caused by nothing but too little iron in the blood. Before you decido that you are going into a decline or typhoid has you in its first grip, ask your doc tor if he does not think you need iron. Even if you do not goto a doctor try taking for a week or two some reliable tonic that has iron or hypophosphites in It. Soft Illumination. A desk light, one of the incandescent electric bulbs in its green shield, turned upward upan a white ceiling makes tne softest of illuminations for & room, pleasantly diffused, without shadows, but strong enough, provided there is -Mu reading to be done. of the first 4 chain stitches of last row, 5 chain, 1 treble on treble, *, 3 chain, another treble in same p'ace as last, 5 chain, double crochet in middle of next loop, 5 chain, double crochet in middle of next loop 5 chain, 1 treble on treble, and repeat from * all round. Three double crochets under the nearest loop, 5 chain, 3 more double crochets under same loop, repeat from * under each loop all round the star and fasten off. The other stars are worked in the same manner, and the illustration will show where they are joined together. For the Center Connection. —Work one chain cotton three times over hook, draw through one of the center picots—as shown —5 on hook, work off 2 at a time in the usual manner twice, leave rest on hook, cotton twice over, draw through same place as before, again work off 2 at a time twice, cotr ton twice over, draw through same picot and work off all the stitches, 1 chain, and repeat into each of the other stars, join the last stitch to the first chain in center and fasten off. KEEP THE CHIN WELL UP. Physical Instructor Says This I* Sure Cure for Round Shoulders. One physical culture instructor lot • Boston, who is having great success in teaching round-shouldered girls to stand and walk erect, says the whole secret is in the way the head is held. "Throw up your chin," Is her rale. This throws the head upward and back ward and the shoulders will naturally settle backward and in their true posi tion. Those who stoop in walking gener ally look downward. The proper way is to look straight ahead upon the same level with your eyes, or. If you are inclined to stoop, until that ten dency is overcome, look rather above than below the level. Mountaineers are said to be as "straight as an arrow," and the reason is because they are obliged to look upward so much. It is simply impossi ble to stoop In walking If you heed and practice this rule. You will notice that all round-shouldered person* carry the chin near the breast and pointed downwards. UNDER-SLIP. . This under-slip is intended for wear ing with pinafore-bodices, and sug gests a way of making up odd lengths of ribbon and lace insertion that may have been bought at the sales. It con sists of a deep yoke coming down un der the arms, and puffed sleeves ter minating just above elbow. The yoke is joined into a band of batiste stitched at each edge, which may be fixed to the under-bodice by small safety pins. The bands to which the puffed sleeves are gathered are finished by frills of lace. The quantity of insertion and ribbon will be regulated by the width of it. White Hair. Sometimes the hair alone is respon sible for white hair having a yellowish appearance. Only castile soap should be used in shampooing; all trace of soap must be carefully rinsed out and a bit of pure indigo may tee put Into the final riusing water.
Significant historical Pennsylvania newspapers